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Parliament House.] LORD HERMAND. I73
never fully recovered the shock, and died in July,
1824.
George Fergusson, Lord Hermand, succeeded
Lord Braxfield in 1799, and was on the Bench
during all the political trials connected with the
West Country seditions of 1817. He and Lord
Newton were great cronies and convivialists ; but
the former outlived Newton and all his old lastcentury
contemporaries of the Bar, and was the
last link between the past and present race of
Scottish lawyers. On the Bench he was hasty and
sarcastic. He was an enthusiast in the memories
of bygone days, and scorned as “priggishness” the
sham decorum of the modem legal character.. He
with the strongest broad Scottish accent, and when
there was fond of indulging in pungent jokes. He
was made a judge in 1798, and officiated as such
till 1822. In the March of that year his friend
and kinsman Sir Alexander Boswell of Auchinleck
was mortally wounded in a duel with James
Stuart of Dunearn, about a mile from Balmuto
House, whither he was borne, only to die ; and the
venerable senator, who was then in his 83rd year,
he lugged in the subject, head and shoulders, in
the midst of a speech about some dry point oflaw
; nay, getting warmer every moment he spoke
of it, he at last fairly plucked the volume from his
pocket, and, in spite of all the remonstrances of‘
his brethren, insisted on reading aloud the whole
passage for their edification. He went through the.
task with his wonted vivacity, gave great effect to
every speech, and most appropriate expression to.
every joke. During the whole scene Sir Walter
Scott was present-seated, indeed, in his official
capacity-close under the judge.’’ He died at hislittle
estate of Hermand, near Edinburgh, in 1827~
I when in his 80th year.
is thus mentioned in “ Peter’s Letters to his Kinsfolk
:”-“ When ‘ Guy Mannefmg ’ came out the
judge was so delighted with the picture of the life
of the old Scottish judges in that most charming.
novel, that he could talk of nothing else but Pley--
dell, Dandie, and the high jinks, for many weeks.
He usually carried one volume of the book about.
with him; and one morning, on the Bench, his
~ love for it so completely got the better of him that
RUINS IN PARLIAMENT SQUARE AFTER THE GREAT FIRE, IN NOVEMBER, I824 ... moment he spoke of it, he at last fairly plucked the volume from his pocket, and, in spite of all the ...

Vol. 1  p. 173 (Rel. 1.75)

160 OLD -4ND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Walk.
on the verge of destitution ; and DIsraeli writes of
him thus in his “ Calamities of Authors ” :-
‘‘ It was one evening I saw a tall, famished,
melancholy man enter a bookseller’s shop, his hat
flapped over his eyes, his whole frame evidently
feeble from exhaustion and utter misery. The
bookseller inquired how he proceeded with his
tragedy ? ‘ Do not talk to me about my tragedy I
Do not talk to me about my tragedy! I have,
indeed, more tragedy than I can bear at home,’ was
Now all the ground eastward of the Walk to
the Easter Road is rapidly being covered by new
streets, and the last of the green fields there has
well-nigh disappeared, Between the North British
Goods Station and Lorne Street the ground fronting
the Walk belongs to the Governors of Heriot’s
Hospital, while the ground between the latter and
the Easter Road is the property of the Trinity
Hospital. The ground in these districts has been
feued at from A105 to Arzo per acre, for tene-
GREENSIDE CHURCH, FROM LEOPOLD PLACE.
his reply, and his voice faltered as he spoke. This
man was ‘ Mathew Bramble ’-Macdonald, the
author of ‘Vimonda,’ at that moment the writer of
comic poetry ! ”
D’Israeli then refers to his seven children, which,
however, is an error, as he had but one child, whom,
with his Wife, he left in utter indigence, whenafter
the privations to which he had been subjected
had a fatal effect on a naturally weak constitution-
he died, in 1788, in the thirty-third year of
his age. A volume of his sermons, published soon
after his death, met with a favourable reception ;
and in 1791 appeared his “Miscellaneous Works,”in
one volume, containing all his dramas, with “ Probationary
Odes for the Laureateship,” and other pieces.
ments four storeys in height, at an average value
each of from A1,8oo to Az,ooo. Many of these
streets are devoid of architectural features, and
meant for the residence of artisans.
The Heriot feus have tenements valued at from
.&3,000 to A4,000, and contain houses of five and
nine apartments, with ranges of commodious shops
on the ground-floor. During the changes here the
old bum of Greenside has also been dealt with;
and instead of meandering, as heretofore, towards
where of old the Lawer Quarry Holes lay-latterly
in an offensive and muddy course-it is carried in
a culvert, which will be turned to account as a main
drain for the locality.
In the map of 1804 the upper part of Leith.
‘ ... died, in 1788, in the thirty-third year of his age. A volume of his sermons, published soon after his death, ...

Vol. 5  p. 160 (Rel. 1.73)

Princes Street.] THE IRISH GIANTS. 121
two Irish giants-twin brothers-exhibited themselves
to visitors at a shilling per head, from four
till nine every evening, Sundays excepted. “ These
wonderful Irish giants are but twenty-three years
of age, and measure nearly eight feet high,” according
to the newspapers. ‘‘ These extraordinary
young men have had the honour to be seen by
~~ ~~~ ~
inches high); and the late Swedish giant will
scarce admit of comparison.”
Of these Irish giants, whose advent is among
the first notabilia of Princes Street, Kay gives
us a full-page drawing in his first volume, including,
by, way of contrast, Lord Monboddo, Bailie Kyd,
a wine merchant in the Candlemaker Row, who
ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE. ( A I . the Podraif by Raebunr.)
their ma,jesties and the royal family at Windsor, in
November, 1783, with great applause, and likewise
by gentlemen of the faculty, Royal Society, and
other admirers of natural curiosity, who allow them
to surpass anything of the kind ever offered (xi.) to
the public. Their address is singularly pleasing ;
their persons truly shaped and proportioned to
their height, and afford an agreeable surprise.
They excel the famous Maximilian Miller, born in
1674, shown in London in 1733 (six feet ten
64
died in 18r0, Andrew Bell, an engraver (who died
in Lauriston Lane in 18og), and others of very small
stature.
In 1811 this house and No. I were both hotels,
the former being named “The Crown,” and from
them both, the “Royal Eagle” and “Prince Regent’’
Glasgow stagecoaches started daily at g am. and
4 p.m. ‘‘ every lawful clay-’’
Taking the houses of note as they occur seriatim,
the first on the north side, No. 10-for some time a ... Street, Kay gives us a full-page drawing in his first volume , including, by, way of contrast, Lord Monboddo, ...

Vol. 3  p. 121 (Rel. 1.21)

St. Giles Street] THE DAILY REVIBW: 289
the vehicle for the dissemination of the rich vein
of humour which ran through his character,
His qualities as a writer in a daily journal were
amply displayed during the six years he edited the
Ddy Review, and a melancholy interest attaches
to his connection with that journal, as he literally
“died in harness.” His great reading gave him
genuine mind and culture, was ever and anon made
evident, sometimes with curious solicitude.” When
death came upon Mr. Manson he was only in his
forty-ninth year, and had not been confined by illness
to the house for a single day. After breakfast,
he had seated himself in his study to write a leader
welcoming John Bright to Edinburgh j and the few
*
TRINITY COLLEGE CHURCH (RESTORED).
extensive resources, while his long study of public
matters and knowledge of past political transactions
were remarkable, or equalled only in the parallel
instance of Alexander Russel, of the Scotsman
His tastes were various ; for in classic authors and
in the Scottish vernacuIar he was equally at home.
“He could scourge pretenders, but he loved to
welcome every genline accession to our literary
treasures, and to give a fresh and advantageous
setting to any gFms that might be found in the
volume with which he had to deaL Indeed, amid
the rough strokes of political war, his regard for
any opponent whom he believed to be a man of
31
lines he wrote were penned, as usual, without a
single elision, when Mrs. Manson entering the
room about twelve o’clock, saw him lying back
in his chair, as she supposed asleep-but it was
the sleep of death. This was on the 2nd of November,
1868.
Mr. Manson, who was long regretted by men
of many professions pver the length and breadth
of the kingdom, and by friends who mourned
him as a genial acquaintance, was succeeded by
the late Henry Kingsley, who occupied the editonal
chair for eighteen months, and who was
succeeded in turn by Dr. George Smith, formerly ... to any gFms that might be found in the volume with which he had to deaL Indeed, amid the rough ...

Vol. 2  p. 289 (Rel. 1.11)

140 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Geage Street.
‘( Chaldee Manuscript,” the effect of which upon
the then circle of Edinburgh society can hardly
be realised now ; but this pungent jeu d’esprit, of
which it is scarcely necessary to give any account
here, is still preserved in Volume IV. of the works
of Professor Wilson.
The sensation excited by the new magazine was
kept up by all the successive numbers, though for
some months no one was attacked; but the subjects
discussed were handled in a masterly manner,
and exhibited a variety of talent that could not fail
to influence and command the respect of all ; and
it has been said that the early defects of the magazine
are nowhere better analysed than by the hands 1 of those who did the work-the authors of “ Peter’s
In October, 1817, he brought out the first
number of that celebrated magazine which has
enrolled among its contributors the names of
Wilson, Scott, Henry Mackenzie, J. McCrie,
Brewster, De Quincey, Hamilton (the author of
“ Cyril Thornton ”), Aytoun, Alison, Lockhart,
Bulwer, Warren, James Hogg, Dr. Moir, and a
host of others. This periodical had a predecessor,
l l e Edinburgir Monthly Magazine, projected in
April, 18~7, and edited by Thomas Pringle, a
able and interesting papers, contained three
calculated to create curiosity, offence, and excitement.
The first was a fierce assault on Coleridge’s
Biog7aphia Literaria, which was stigmatised as a
“ most execrable ” performance, and its author “ a
miserable compound of egotism and nialignity.”
The second was a still more bitter attack on
high Hunt, who was denounced as a “profligate
creature,” one ‘( without reverence for either
God or man.” The third was the famous
highly-esteemed poet and miscellaneous writer, the
son of a farmet in Teviotdale, and this falling into
the hands of new proprietors, became the famous
Blackzeoo&s Magazine.
This was consequently No. VII. of the series,
though the first of Blackamd. (‘In the previous
six numbers there had been nothing allowed to
creep in that could possibly offend the most
zealous partisan of the blue and yellow,” says airs.
Gordon, in her “Life of Professor Wilson.” In
the first Number the Edinburgh Review had been
praised for its moderation, ability, and delicate
taste, and politics were rather eschewed ; but
Number seven “spoke a different language, and
proclaimed a new and sterner creed,” and among ... to give any account here, is still preserved in Volume IV. of the works of Professor Wilson. The ...

Vol. 3  p. 140 (Rel. 1.08)

Parlirmcnt House.] LORDS MONBODDO, KAMES, AND HAILES 171
ministration of certain medicines ; but the famer
went beyond these, and mixed in it a considerable
quantity of treacle. As the horse died next
morning, Lord Monboddo raised a prosecution for
its value, and pleaded his own cause at the Bar.
He lost the case, and was so enraged against his
brother judges that he never afterwards sat with
them on the Bench, but underneath, among the
clerks. This case was both a remarkable and illl
amusing one, from the mass of Roman law quoted
on the occasion.
Though hated and despised by his brethren for
his oddities, Lord Monboddo was one of the most
learned and upright judges of his time. “His
philosophy,” says Sir Walter Scott, “as is well
known, was of a fanciful and somewhat fantastic
character ; but his learning was deep, and he possessed
a singular power of eloquence, which re-
,,mhded the hearer of the os ro&ndum of the Grove
or Academe. Enthusiastically partial to classical
habits, his entertainments were always given in the
evening, when there was a circulation of excellent
Bordeaux, in flasks garlanded with roses, which
were also strewed on the table, after the manner
Qf Horace.”
The best society in Edinburgh was always ‘ta be
found at his house, St John’s Street, Canongate.
His youngest daughter, a lady of amiable disposition
and of surpassing beauty, which Burns
panegyrised, is praised in one of the papers of
the Mirror as, rejecting the most flattering and
advantageous opportunities of Settlement in marriage,
that she might amuse her father’s loneliness
and nurse his old age.
He was the earliest patron of one of the best
scholars of his time, Professor John Hunter, who
was for many years his secretary, and wrote the
first and best volume of his lordship’s “ Treatise on
the Origin of Languages.” When Lord Monboddo
travelled to London he’ always did so on hoeeback.
On his last journey thither he ’got no
farther than Dunbar. His nephew inquiring the
Teason of this, ‘.‘Oh, George,” said he, “ I find I
am noo aughty-four,” The manners of Lord Monboddo
were as’odd as his personal appearance.
He has been described as looking “more like an
.old stuffed monkey dressed in judge’s robes than
anything else;” and so convinced is he said to
have been of his fantastic theory of human tails
that, when a child was born in his house he would
watch at the chamber door, in order to see it in its
first state, as he had an idea that midwives cut the
tails off!
He never recoveied the shock of his beautiful
in 1790. He kept her portrait covered with black
cloth; at this he would often look sadly, without
lifting it, and then turn to his volume of Herodotus.
He died in 1799.
The other eccentric we have referred to was
Henry Home, Lord Kames, who was equally distinguished
for his literary abilities, his metaphysical
subtlety, and wonderful powers of conversation j
yet he was strangely accustomed to apply towards
his intimates a coarse term which he invariably
used, and this peculiarity is well noted by Sir Walter
Scott in “Redgauntlet.” He was raised to the
Bench in 1752, and afterwards lived in New Street,
in a house then ranking as one of the first in the
city, The catalogue of his printed works is a very
long one.
On retiring from the Bench he took a public
farewell of. his brother judges. After a solemn
and pathetic speech, and shaking hands all round,
as he was quitting the Court, he turned round,
and exclaimed, in his familiar manner, “Fare ye
a’ weel, ye auld -” here using his customary
expression. A day or two b.efore his death he
told Dr. Cullen that he earnestly wished to be
away,’as he was exceedingly curious to learn the
manners of another world ; adding, “ Doctor, as I
never could be idle in this world, I shall gladly
perform any task that may be imposed upon me
in the next” He died in December, 1782, in
his 87th year.
Sir David Dalrymple, Lord Hailes, the annalist
of Scotland, was raised to the Bench in 1766. He
had studied law at Utrecht, and was distinguished
for his strict integrity, unwearied diiigence, and dignity
of manner, but he was more conspicuous as
a scholar and author than as a senator. His researches
were chiefly directed t9 the history and
antiquities of his native country; and his literary
labours extended over a period of close on forty
years. .4t his death, in 1792, an able funeral
sermon was preached by the well-known b r .
Alexander Carlyle of Inveresk; and, as no will
could be found, the heir-male was about to take
possession of his estates, to the exclusion of his
daughter, but some months after, when she was
about to give up Ne% Hailes, and quit the house
in New Street, one was found behind a windowshutter,
in the latter place, and it secured her iu
the possession of all, till her own death, which
took place forty years after.
Francis Gardner, Lord Gardenstone, appointed
in 1764, was one of those ancient heroes of the
Bar, who, after a night of hard drinking, would,
without having been in bed, or studying a case, ... for many years his secretary, and wrote the first and best volume of his lordship’s “ Treatise on the ...

Vol. 1  p. 171 (Rel. 1.07)

thirteen hundred acres, which he rented in Aberdeenshire,
and which, by his skill and industry, he
brought into a fine state of fertility. In the same
year he wrote his ‘‘ Observations on the Means of
Exciting a Spirit of National Industry ” with regard
to agriculture, commerce, manufactures, and fisher;
es, and also several pamphlets on agricultural
subjects, which gained him a high reputation ; and
in 1780 the University of Aberdeen conferred upon
him the degree of LL.D.
CURRIE.
quire into the state of the British fisheries in May,
1785, makes very honourable mention of Dr.
Anderson’s services ; but we do not find that he
was ever offered any remuneration, and he was
too high-spirited and purely disinterested to ask
for any.
After his return he resumed his literary labours
in various ways, and, among other schemes, brought
out a literary periodical called The Bee, or Literary
Week&IntelZigencer, which was current from Decem-
Quitting the farm, he returned to the vicinity of
Edinburgh, with a view to the education of his
large family, and partly to enjoy the literary society
which then existed there.
About that time he circulated a tract on the
establishment of the Scottish fisheries, with a view
to alleviate much distress which he had witnessed on
the coast of Aberdeenshire from the failure of the
crops in 1782.
This excited the attention of the Government,
and he was requested by the Treasury to survey
the western coasts of Scotland, and obtain information
on this important subject-a task which he
performed with enthusiasm in 1784
Thp report of the committee appointed to in-
.
ber, 1790, to January, 1794, and was very popular
in Edinburgh.
In 1797 he removed to London, where much
attention was paid to him by the Marquis of
Lansdowne, at whose request, in 1799, he started
a periodical, entitled Recreations in Agricdture.
The greatest portion of this work was written
by himself, but he pursued it no further than the
sixth volume, in March, 1802. From thenceforth,
with the exception of his correspondence
with General Washington and a pamphlet od
“Scarcity,” he was unable to write more; and,
feeling the powers of life begin to decline, devoted
his leisure to the cultivation of a miniature garden.
A list of his publications, thirty in number, is ... himself, but he pursued it no further than the sixth volume , in March, 1802. From thenceforth, with the ...

Vol. 6  p. 336 (Rel. 1.06)

50 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood.
Wllliam, who had property in Broughton, after his
death, none bore even nominally the title of abbot.
A part of the lands fill to the Earl of Roxburghe,
from whom the superiority passed, as narrated
elsewhere.
The “Chronicon Sancta Crucis” was commenced
by the canons of Holyrood, but the portion that
has been preserved comes down only to 1163,
and breaks off at the time of their third abbot.
“Even the Indices Sanctorum and the ‘ two
Calendars of Benefactors and Brethren, begun from
the earliest times, and continued by the care of
numerous monks,’ may-when allowance is made
for the magniloquent style of the recorder-man
nothing more than the united calendar, martyrology,
and ritual book, which is fortunately still
preserved. It is a large folio volume of 132 leaves
of thick vellum, in oak boards covered with stamped
leather, which resembles the binding of the sixteenth
century.” .
The extent of the ancient possessions of this
great abbey may be gathered from the charters
and gifts in the valuable Munim-nta Ecdesicp San&
Cmcis de Edwinesburg and the series of Sent
Rollr. To enumerate the vestments, ornaments,
jewels, relics, and altar vessels of gold and silver
set with precious stones, would far exceed our
limits, but they are to be found at length in the
second volume of the “ Bannatyne Miscellany.”
When the monastery was dissolved at the Reformation
its revenues were great, and according to the
two first historians of Edinburgh its annual income
then was stated as follows :
By Maitland : In wheat. 27 chaldea, 10 bolls.
I) In bear ... 40 .. g ..
I t Inoa ts... 34 .. 15 .. 3tpecks.
501 capons, 24 hens, 24 salmon, 12 loads of salt, and an
unknown number of swine. In money, &926 8s. 6d.
Scots.
By Arnot : In wheat ............ 442 bolls. .. ............. In bear 640 ss .. In oats .............. 560 .. with the same amount in other kind, and.&o sterling.
CHAPTER VIII.
HOLYROOD ABBEY (concluded).
Charter of Willim 1.-Trial of the Scottish Tcmplars-Prrndergast’s Rercnpe--chanas by ROM IL and 111.-The Lord of the Isles-
Coronation of James 11.-Marriages of James I[. and III.-Church, Bc. Burned by the Englih-Ph&d by them-Its Restoration
by James VU.-The Royal Vault-Desaiption of the Chapel Royal-Plundered at the Revolution-Ruined in x*-The West Front-
The Belhavcn Mouument-The Churchyard-Extent of Present Ruin-The Sanctuary-The Abbey Bells.
.KING WILLIAM THE LION, in a charter under his
:great seal, granted between the years 1171 and
1r77, ddressed to “all the good men of his whole
kingdom, French, English, Scots, and Galwegians,”
confirmed the monks of Holyrood in all that had
been given them by his grandfather, King David,
together with many other gifts, including the pasture
of a thousand sheep in Rumanach (Romanno?),
-a document witnessed in the castle, “apud
&densehch. ”
In 1309, when Elias 11. was abbot, there
occurred an interesting event at Holyrood, of
which no notice has yet been taken in any,history
of Scotland-the trial of the Scottish Knights of the
Temple on the usual charges niade against the
erder, aftet the terrible murmurs that rose against it
in Paris, London, and elsewhere, in consequence
-of its alleged secret infidelity, sorcery, and other
vices.
According to the Processus factus contra Tem-
.#arias in Scofict, in Wilkins’ Concilia,” a work of
great price and rarity, it was in the month of
December, 1309-when the south of ScotIand was
averrun by the English, Irish, Welsh, and Norman
troops of Edward II., and John of Bretagne, Earl
of Richmond, was arrogantly called lieutenant of
the kingdom, though Robert Bruce, succeeding to
the power and popularity of Wallace, was in arms
in the north-that Master John de Soleure, otherwise
styled of Solerio, “chaplain to our lord the
Pope,” together with William Lamberton, Bishop of
St. Andrews, met at the Abbey of Holyrood “for
the trial of the Templars, and two brethren of that
order undernamed, the only persons of the order
present in the kingdom of Scotland, by command
of our most holy lord Clement V.” Some curious
light is thrown upon the inner life of the order by
this trial, which it is impossible to give at full
length.
In the first place appeared Brother Walter of
Clifton, who, being sworn on the Gospels, replied
that he had belonged to the military order of the
Temple for ten years, since the last feast of All
Saints, and had been received into it at Temple
Bruer, at Lincoln, in England, by Brother William
de la More (whom Raynouard, in his work on the
order, calls a Scotsman), and that the Scottish
brother knights received the statutes and observ ... is fortunately still preserved. It is a large folio volume of 132 leaves of thick vellum, in oak boards ...

Vol. 3  p. 50 (Rel. 1.05)

During the great plague of 1568 a huge pit,
wherein to bury the victims, was ordered to be dug
in the ‘‘ Greyfriars KirRyaird,’’ as Maitland records,
thus again indicating the existence of a church here
long anterior to the erection of the present one.
Here, about eight in the evening of the 2nd June,
1581,was brought from the scaffold, whereon it had
lain for four hours, covered by an old cloak, the headless
body of James Douglas, Earl of Morton, n-ho
GRRYYFBIARS CHURCH.
In this city of the dead have been interred so
vast a number of men of eminence that the mere
enumeration of their names would make a volume,
and we can but select a few. Here lie thirty-seven
chief magistrates of the city j twenty-three principals
and professors of the university, many of them
of more than European celebrity ; thirty-three of
the most distinguished lawyers of their day-one
a Vice Chancellor of Engknd and Master of the
the murder of King Henry. It was borne by
common porters, and interred in the place there set
apart for criminals, most probably where now the
Martyrs’ Monument stands. Xone of his friends
dared follow it to the grave, or show their affection
or respect to the deceased Earl by any sign of
outward griet
In 1587 the king having ordered a general
weapon-shawing, the Council, on the 15th July, ordained
by proclamation a muster of the citizens in
the Greyfriars Kirkyard, ‘‘ boddin in feir ofweir, and
arrayet in their best armour, to witt, either pike
or speer, and the armour effeuand thairto, or with
hakbuts and the armour effeirand thairto, and nocht
with halbarts or Jedburgh staffes.”
the Court of Chancery; six Lords President of the
Supreme Court of Scotland ; twenty-two senators
of the College of Justice, anda host of men distinguished
for the splendour of their genius, piety, and
worth.
Here too lie, in unrecorded thousands, citizens
of more humble position, dust piled over dust, till
the soil of the burial-place is now high above the
level of the adjacent Candlemaker Row-the dust
of those who lived and breathed, and walked OUT
streets in days gone by, when as yet Edinburgh was
confined in the narrower limits of the Old Town.
“The graves are so crowded on each other,”
says Amot, writing in 1779, ‘‘ that the sextons fiequently
cannot avoid in opening a npe grave ... that the mere enumeration of their names would make a volume , and we can but select a few. Here lie ...

Vol. 4  p. 380 (Rel. 0.99)

NioiLson Street.] JOHN MACLAREN. 337
spend a portion of each day in education, often
passing an hour or more daily in learning to read
by means of raised letters, under the direction of
the chaplain.
One of the most remarkable inmates here was
John Maclaren, who deserves to be recorded for
his wonderful memory. He was a native of Edinburgh,
and lost his sight by small-pox in infancy.
He was admitted into the first asylum ir. Shakespeare
Square in 1793, and was the last survivor
In West Richmond Street, which opens off the
east side of Nicolson Street, is the McCrie Free
Church, so named from being long the scene of
the labours of Dr. Thomas McCric, the zealous
biographer of Knox and Melville. Near it, a large
archway leads into a small and dingy-looking court,
named Simon Square, crowded by a humble, but
dense population ; yet it has associations intimately
connected with literature and the fine arts, for
there a poor young student from Rnnandale, named
SURGEONS’ HALL.
of the original members. With little exception,
he had committed the whole of the Scriptures to
memory, and was most earnest in his pious efforts
to instruct the blind boys of the institution in portions
of the sacred volume. He could repeat an
entire passage of the Bible, naming chapter and
verse, wherever it might be opened for him. As
age came upon him the later events of his life eluded
his memory, while all that it had secured of the
earlier remained distinct to the last. Throughout
his long career he was distinguished by his zeal
in promoting the spiritual welfare and temporal
comfort of the little community of which he was
a member, and also for 3 life of increasing industry,
which closed on the 14th of November, 1840.
91
Thomas Carlyle, lodged when he first came to
Edinburgh, and in a narrow alley called Paul
Street David Wilkie took up his abode on his
arrival in Edinburgh in 1799.
He was then in his fourteenth year; and so little
was thought of his turn for art, that it required all
the powerful influence of the kind old Earl of
Leven to obtain him admission as a student at the
Academy of the Board of Trustees. The room he
occupied in Paul Street was a little back one, about
ten feet square, at the top of a common stair on
the south side of the alley, and near the Pleasance.
From this he removed to a better lodging in East
Richmond Street, and from thence to an attic in
Palmer‘s Lane, West Nicolson Street, where hq ... blind boys of the institution in portions of the sacred volume . He could repeat an entire passage of the Bible, ...

Vol. 4  p. 337 (Rel. 0.98)

Abbeyhill.] BARON NORTON. I27
CHAPTER XIII.
THE DISTRICT OF RESTALRIG.
Abhey Hill-Baron Norton-Alex. Campbell and “ Albyn’s Anthology ”--Comely Gardens-Easter Road-St. Margaret’s Well-Church and
Legend of St. Triduana-Made Collegiate by James 111.-The Mausoleum-Old Bardns of Restalrig-pe Logans, &c.-Conflict of
Black Saturday-Residents of Note-First Balloon in Britain-Rector Adams-The Nisbets of Craigantinnie and Dean-The Millers-
The Craieantinnie Tomb and Marbles-The Marionville Traeedv-The Hamlet of Jock‘o Lodge-Mail-bag Robberies in seventeenth and - _
eighteenth centuries-Piershill House and Barracks.
AT the Abbey Hill, an old house-in that antiquated
but once fashionable suburb, which grew
up in the vicinity of the palace of Holyrood-with
groups of venerable trees around it, which are now,
like itself, all swept away to make room for the present
Abbeyhill station and railway to Leith, there
lived long the Hon. Fletcher Norton, appointed one
of the Barons of the Scottish Exchequer in 1776,
with a salary of &2,865 per annum, deemed a handsome
income in those days.
He was the second son of Fletcher Norton of
Grantley in Yorkshire, who was Attorney-General
of England in 1762, and was elevated to the British
peerage in 1782, as Lord Grantley.
He came to Scotland at a time when prejudices
then against England and Englishmen were strong
and deep, for the rancour excited by the affair of
1745, about thirty years before, was revived by the
periodical publication of the Nhth Briton, but
Baron Norton soon won the regard of all who knew
him. His conduct as a judge increased the respect
which his behaviour in private life obtained, His
perspicacity easily discovered the true merits of any
cause before him, while his dignified and conciliatory
manner, joined to the universal confidence
which prevailed in his rigid impartiality, reconciled
to him even those who suffered by such verdicts as
were given against them in consequence of his
charges to the juries.
He married in 1793 a Scottish lady, a Miss Balmain,
and in the Edinburgh society of his time stood
high in the estimation of all, “as a husband, father,
friend, and master,” according to a print of 1820.
“ His fund of information-of anecdotes admirably
told-his social disposition, and the gentlemanly
pleasantness of his manner, made his society to be
universally coveted. Resentment had no place in
his bosom. He seemed almost insensible to injury
so immediately did he pardon it. Amongst his
various pensioners were several who had shown
marked ingratitude ; but distress, with him, covered
every offence against himself.”
He was a warm patron of the amiable and enthusiastic,
but somewhat luckless Alexander Campbell,
author of “ The Grampians Desolate,” which
“fell dead ” from the press, and editor of “ Albyn’s
Anthology,” who writes thus in the preface to the
first volume of that book in 1816, and which, we
may mention, was a “ collection of melodies and
local poetry peculiar to Scotland and the isles ” :-
“ So far back as the year 1780, while as yet the
editor of ‘Albyn’s Anthology’ was an organist to
one of the Episcopal chapels in Edinburgh, he projected
the present work. Finding but small encouragement
at that period, and his attention being
directed to pursuits of quite a different nature, the
plan was dropped, till by an accidental turn of conversation
at a gentleman’s table, the Hon. Fletcher
Norton gave a spur to the speculation now in its
career. He with that warmth of benevolence
peculiarly his own, offered his influence with the
Royal Highland Society of Scotland, of which he is
a member of long standing, and in conformity with
the zeal he has uniformly manifested for everything
connected with the distinction and prosperity of our
ancient realm, on the editor giving him a rough
outline of the present undertaking, the Hon. Baron
put it into the hands of Henry Mackenzie, Esq., of
the Exchequer, and Lord Bannatyne, whose influence
in the society is deservedly great. And
immediately on Mr. Mackenzie laying it before a
select committee for music, John H. Forbes, Esq.
(afterwards Lord Medwyn), as convener of the
committee, convened it, and the result was a recommendation
to the society at large, who embraced
the project cordially, voted a sum to enable the
editor to pursue his plan ; and forthwith he set out
on a tour through the Highlands and western
islands. Having performed a journey (in pursuit
of materials for the present work) of between eleven
and twelve hundred miles, in which he collected
191 specimens of melodies and Gaelic vocal poetry,
he returned to Edinburgh, and laid the fruits of
his gleanings before the society, who were pleased
to honour with their approbation his success in
attempting to collect and preserve the perishing remains
of what is so closely interwoven with the
history and literature of Scot!and.”
From thenceforth the ‘‘ Anthology” was a success,
and a second volume appeared in 1818. Under
the influence of Baron Norton, Campbell got many
able contributors, among whom appear the names
of Scott, Hogg, Mrs. Grant of Laggan, RIaturin, and
Jamieson. ... who writes thus in the preface to the first volume of that book in 1816, and which, we may ...

Vol. 5  p. 127 (Rel. 0.98)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH [The Meadows. 348
damp and melancholy place, even in summer, though
much frequented as a public walk.
The western end obtains still the name of Hope
Park, and a more modern street close by bears the
name of his Fifeshire estate-Bankeillor-now
passed to another family.
Among these Improvers were the Earls of Stair,
Islay, and Hopetoun, the Lords Cathcart and Drummore,
with Dalrymple of Cousland and Cockburn
of Ormiston. Lord Stair was the first to raise turnips
end of the central walk, and a little, but once
famous, cottage and stable, where asses’ milk was
sold, long disfigured the upper walk at Teviot Row.
A few old-fashioned villas were on the south side
of the Meadows ; in one of these, in 1784, dwelt
Archibald Cockburn, High Judge Admiral of Scotland
No. 6 Meadow Place was long the residence
of David Irving, LL.D., author of “ The Lives of
the Scottish Poets” and other works, librarian
to the Faculty of Advocates; and in Warrender
THE MEADOWS, ABOUT 1810. (From a Pdntingim fheposscssim of Dr. 7. A. Sidey.)
in the open fields, and so laid the foundation of
the most important branch of the store-husbandry
of modem times.
The Meadows were longa fashionable promenade.
“There has never in my life,” says Lord Cockbum,
“ been any single place in or near Edinburgh
which has so distinctly been the resort at once of
our philosophy and our fashion. Under these poor
trees walked, and talked, and meditated, all our
literary and scientific, and many of our legal,
worthies of the last and beginning of the present
century.”
They still form the shooting ground of the Royal
Company of Archers. A species of ornamental
arbour, called “The Cage,” stoodlong at the south
Lodge, Meadow Place, ’lived and died James
Ballantine, the genial author of “ The Gaberlunzie’s
Wallet and other works of local notoriety, but
more especially a volume of one hundred songs,
with music, many of which are deservedly popular.
Celebrated in his own profession as a glass-stainer,
he was employed by the Royal Commissioners on
the Fine Arts, to execute the stained glass windows
for the House of Lords at Westminster.
Now the once sequestered Meadows, save on
the southern quarter, which is open to Bruntsfield
Links, are well-nigh completely encircled by new
lines of streets and terraces, and are further intersected
by the fine modem drive named from Sir 1 John Melville, who was Lord Provost in 1854-9. ... other works of local notoriety, but more especially a volume of one hundred songs, with music, many of which ...

Vol. 4  p. 348 (Rel. 0.97)

THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 97 The Mound]
one persons ;61,ooo each, a sum which more than
sufficed to purchase the site of the college-the
old Guise Palace, with its adjacent closes-and to
erect the edifice, while others were built at
Glasgow and Aberdeen.
Plans by W. H. Playfair, architect, were prepared
and adopted, after a public competition had
been resorted to, and the new buildings were at
once proceeded with. The foundation stone was
iaid on the 4th of June, 1846, by Dr. Chalmers,
~ The stairs on the south side of the quadrangle
lead to the Free Assembly Hall, on the exact site
of the Guise Palace. It was erected from designs
by David Bryce, at a cost of A7,000, which was
collected by ladies alone belonging to the Free
Church throughout Scotland.
The structure was four years in completion, and
was opened on the 6th of November, 1850,under the
sanction of the Commission of the Free General
Assembly, by their moderator, Dr. N. Paterson,
LIBRARY OF THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. (Fwm o P/wtozm#h by G. W. Wi&on and Co.)
exactly one year previous to the day which saw his
remains consigned to the tomb. The ultimate cost
was ;646,506 8s. Iod., including the price of the
ground, Ero,ooo.
The buildings are in the English collegiate style,
combining the common Tudor with somd of the later
Gothic They form an open quadrangle (entered
by a handsome groined archway), 165 feet from
east to west and 177 from south to north, including
on the east the Free High Church. The edifice
has two square towers (having each four crocketed
pinnacles), IZI feet in height, buttressed at the
corners from base to summit. There is a third
tower, 95 feet in height. The college contains
seven great class-rooms, a senate hall, a students'
hall, and a library, the latter adorned with a
statue of Dr, Chalmers as Principal, by Steel
61
who delivered a sermon and also a special address
to the professors and students. Subsequently, this
inaugural sermon and the introductory lectures
delivered on the same occasion to their several
classes by Professors Cunningham, Buchanan,
Bannerman, Duncan, Black, Macdougal, Fraser,
and Fleming, were published in a volume, as a
record of that event.
The constitution of this college is the same as
that of the Free Church colleges elsewhere. The
Acts of Assembly provide for vesting college
property and funds, for the election of professors,
and for the general management and superintendence
of college business. The college buildings
are vested in trustees appointed by the Church.
A select committee is also appointed bp the
j General Assembly, consisting of " eleven ministers ... Black, Macdougal, Fraser, and Fleming, were published in a volume , as a record of that event. The ...

Vol. 3  p. 97 (Rel. 0.94)

Arthur’s Seat.] . ORIGIN OF
battle of Camelon, unsupported tradition has always
alleged that Arthur‘s Seat obtained its name ; while
with equal veracity the craigs are said to have
been so entitled from the Earl of Salisbury, who
accompanied Edward 111. in one of his invasions
of Scotland, an idle story told by h o t , and ofter,
repeated since.
Maitland, a much more acute writer, says, ‘(that
the idea of the mountain being named from Arthur,
a British or Cimrian king, I cannot give into,” and
305 THE NAME.
“Do thou not thus, brigane, thou sal1 be brynt,
With pik, tar, fire, gunpoldre, and lynt
On Arthuris-Sete, or on a hyar hyll.”
And this is seventy-seven years before the publication
of Camden’s c‘Britannia,” in which it is so
named. But this is not the only Arthur‘s Seat in
Scotland, as there is one near the top of Loch
Long, and a third near Dunnichen in Forfarshire.
Conceriiing the adjacent craigs, Lord Hailes in a
note to the first volume of his Annals, says of ‘‘ the
THE HOLYROOD DAIKY.* (firm a CarOtypr (5. Dr. Tkmmu Keith.)
[The circular structure in the background to the right waq a temporary Government store.]
adds that he considers (‘ the appellation of Arthur’s
Seat to be a corruption of the Gaelic Ard-na-Said,
which implies the ‘ Height of Arrows ; ’ than which
nothing can be more probable; for no spot of
ground is fitter for the exercise of archery, either
at butts or rovers, than this; wherefore Ard-na-
Sad, by an easy transition, might well be changed
to Arthur‘s Seat.”
Many have asserted the latter to be a name of
yesterday, but it certainly bore it at the date of
WalterKennedy’s poem, his “ flyting,” With Dunbar,
which was published in 1508 :- 1
precipice now called Salisbury Craigs; some of
my readers may wish to be informed of the ongin
of a word so familiar to them. In the Anglo-
Saxon language, saw, sme, means dty, withered,
zcrasfe. The Anglo-Saxon termination of Burgh,
Burh, Barrow, BUY^, Biry, implies a castle, town,
or habitation ; but in a secondary sense only, for it
is admitted that the common original is Beorg a
rock . . . . Hence we may conclude, &m>bury,
Sbisbuv, Salisbury, is the waste or dg hbifafion.
An apt description, when it is remembered that the 1 hills which now pass under the general but corrupted
Dr. J. A. Sidey writes: “The Holyrood Dairy, which stood at the enhance to St. Aone’s Yard, had no reference to the F’alaoc (from
which it was 19 feet distant) except in =gad to name. It was taken down about 1858. and was kept by R o b McBan, whose sm was afterwards
m e of the ‘ Keeperr’ d the F’ab(as Mr. Andrew Kar tdL me) and Rad the old sign in his porrasion. Mr. K a says the dairy Man@
m the Corpont;on of Path, and was held for charitable purpmq and sold frr the sum of money that wuuld yield the ame amount as the reatal of
the dairy.”
87 ... the adjacent craigs, Lord Hailes in a note to the first volume of his Annals, says of ‘‘ the THE HOLYROOD ...

Vol. 4  p. 305 (Rel. 0.93)

224 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
ROBERT CHAMBERS.
(From a *ate PkOtog~U#h.)
1
volume by the firm in 1868, and is the preface tD
which Robert writes :-
‘<I am about to do what very few could do
without emotion-revise a book which I wrote
turreted edifice, that now forms the west side of
Warriston’s Close, and built in 1868. It bears
the legend Gracia . Dei. Ro6erfus . Bruiss, with a
WILLIAM CHAMBERS.
(From a Pktograplr by jokta Lamwrd.)
shield at each end, one having the arms sf Bruce
of Binning in Linlithgowshire, impaled with those
of Preston-three unicorns’ heads.
The eminent publishers, whose extensive premises
now occupy the west side of Warriston’s
Close, William and Robert Chambers-the great
pioneers of the cheap literature movement-were
born at Peebles, in 1800 and 1802 respectively.
Their ancestors were woollen manufacturers, and
their father carried on the business in cotton at
Peebles, on so large a scale that he used sometimes
to have a hundred looms at work.
He was thus enabled to give his sons a good
education at the schools of their native town, where
Robert passed through a classical course, with the
view of taking orders in the church of Scotland ;
but monetary misfortunes having overtaken his
parents, the family removed to Edinburgh, where
the two brothers were thrown in a great measure
on their own resources, but formed the noble
resolution to try by stem industry to regain the
ground their family had lost ; and a love of reading
led them gradually into the business of bookselling.
William served an apprenticeship, from 1814 to
1819, with Mr. Sutherland, Calton Street, who gave
him four shillings weekly as wages, and on this
small sum-shrinking from being a burden on his
delicate and struggling mother-he took a lodging,
it IS. 6d. per week, in Boak’s Land, West Port, a
ittle bed closet, which he shared with a poor
livinity student from the hills of Tweeddale. Out
)f these slender wages he contrived to save a few
ihillings, and began business, in a very small way,
n 1819, and by the following year added printing
hereto, having taught himself that craft, cutting
vith his own hand the larger types out of wood.
By 1818 Robert had begun business in a tiny
;hop as a bookstall-keeper, in Leith Walk, and
iaving a strong literary turn, he made an essay
is author, by starting a small periodical called
he KaZez’doscoje, the types of which were set up
md printed off by William, in an old rickety
xess, which, he relates, “ emitted a jangling,
xeaking noise, like a shriek of anguish,” when
vorked. After a brief career this publication was
hopped, to enable Robert, in 1822, to write a
rolume likely to be popular-“ Illustrations of the
4uthor of Waverley,” referring to the supposed
xiginal characters of the novelist. Of this work
William was printer, binder, and publisher, and a
iecond edition appeared in 1824.
Immediately after its issue he began his “ Traiiitions
of Edinburgh ” (in the plan and production
Df which the brothers anticipated a joint work, that
was to have been written by Scott and Kirkpatrick
S1iarpe)-a book re-written and re-published in one
. ... Street. ROBERT CHAMBERS. (From a *ate PkOtog~U#h.) 1 volume by the firm in 1868, and is the preface tD which ...

Vol. 2  p. 224 (Rel. 0.81)

Salisbury Road.] THE HOSPITAL FOR INCURABLES. 5<
three plain shields under a moulding, with the date
1741-
Though disputed by some, Sciennes Hill House
once the residence of Professor Adam Fergusson
author of the (‘ History of the Roman Republic,’
is said to have been the place where Sir Waltei
Scott was introduced to Robert Burns in 1786
when that interesting incident occurred which ir
related by Sir Walter himself in the following letter
which occurs in Lockhart’s Life of him :--“As foi
Rums, I may truly say, 1GYgiZimn vidi tantum. I
was a lad of fifteen in 1786-7, when he first cam€
to Edinburgh, but had sense and feeling enough to
he much interested in his poetry, and would have
given the world to know him; but I had very
little acquaintance with any literary people, and
less with the gentry of the West County, the two
sets he most frequented. I saw him one day at the
venerable Professor Fergusson’s, where there were
several gentlemen of literary reputation, among
whom I remember the celebrated Dugald Stewart.
“ Ofcourse, we youngsters sat silent, and listened.
The only thing I remember which was remarkable
in Burns’s manner was the effect produced upon
him by a print of Bunbury’s, representing a soldier
lying dead on the snow, his dog sitting in misery
on one side ; on the other his widow, with a child
in her arms. These lines were written underneath
:-
“ ‘ Cold on Canadian hills, or Minden’s plain,
Perhaps that parent wept her soldier slain-
Bent o’er her babe, her eyes dissolved in dew,
The big drops mingling with the drops he drew,
Gave the sad presage of his future years,
The child of misery baptised in tears.’
‘‘ Burns seemed much affected by the print, or
Tather, the ideas which it suggested to his mind.
He actually shed tears. He asked whose the lines
were, and it chanced that nobody but myself remembered
that they occur in a half-forgotten poem
of Langhorne’s, called by the unpromising title of
‘ The Justice of the Peace.’ I whispered my information
to a friend present, who mentioned it to
Burns, who rewarded me with a look and a word,
which, though of mere civility, I then received,
and still recollect, with very great pkasuye.”
Westward of Sciennes Hill is the new Trades
Maiden. Hospital, in the midst of a fine grassy
park, called Rillbank. The history of this
charitable foundation, till its transference here, we
have already given elsewhere fully. Within its
walls is preserved the ancient ‘( Blue Blanket,” or
banner of the city, of which there will be found
an engraving on page 36 of Volume I.
In Salisbury Road, which opens eastward off
Minto Street, is the Edinburgh Hospital for Incurables,
founded in 1874; and through the chanty
of the late Mr. J. A. Longmore, in voting a grant
of &IO,OOO for that purpose, provided the institution
‘‘ should supply accommodation for incurable
patients of all classes, and at the same time commemorate
Mr. Longmore’s munificent bequest for
the relief of such sufferers,” the directors were
enabled,in 1877, to secure Nos. g and 10 in this
thoroughfare. The building has a frontage of 160
feet by 180 feet deep. It consists of a central
block and two wings, the former three storeys high,
and the latter two. The wards for female patients
measure about 34 feet by 25 feet, affording accommodation
for about ten beds.
Fronting the entrance door to the corridors are
SEAL OA THE CONVENT OF ST. KATHARINE.
(After H. Laing.)
ieparate staircases, one leading to the female
iepartment, the other to the male. On each floor
.he bath, nurses’ rooms, gic., are arranged similarly.
[n the central block are rooms for “paying patients.’’
The wards are heated with Manchester open fire-
)laces, while the corridors are fitted up with hot
Mater-pipes. The wards afford about 1,100 cubic
’eet of space for each patient.
Externally the edifice is treated in the Classic
;tyle. In rear of it a considerable area of ground
ias been acquired, and suitably laid out. The site
:ost A4,000, and the hospital LIO,OOO. Since it
Nas opened there have been on an average one hunlred
patients in it, forty of whom were natives of
Edinburgh, and some twenty or so from England
md Ireland. The funds contributed for its support
ire raised entirely in the city. It was formally
3pened in December, 1880.
A little way south from this edifice, in South ... of which there will be found an engraving on page 36 of Volume I. In Salisbury Road, which opens eastward ...

Vol. 5  p. 55 (Rel. 0.65)

The Tolhwth] THE SIGNET ANI) ADVOCATES’ LIBRARIES. 123
THE genius of Scott has shed a strange halo around
the memory of the grim and massive Tolbooth
prison, so much so that the creations of his imagination,
such as Jeanie and Effie Deans, take the
place of real persons of flesh’ and blood, and suchtraders.
They have been described as being “a
dramdrinking, news-mongering, facetious set of
citizens, who met every morn about seven o’clock,
and after proceeding to the post-office to ascertain
the news (when the mail arrived), generally adjourned
to a public-house and refreshed themselves
with a libation of brandy.” Unfounded articles of
intelligence that were spread abroad in those days
were usually named “ Lawnmarket Gazettes,” in
allusion to their roguish or waggish originators.
At all periods the Lawnmarket was a residence
for nien of note, and the frequent residence of
English and other foreign ambassadors; and so
long as Edinburgh continued to be the seat of the
Parliament, its vicinity to the House made it a
favourite and convenient resort for the members
of the Estates.
On the ground between Robert Gourlay’s house
and Beith’s Wynd we now find some of those portions
of the new city which have been engrafted on
the old. In Melbourne Place, at the north end of
George IV. Bridge, are situated many important
offices, such as, amongst others, those of the Royal
Medical Society, and the Chamber of Commerce
and Manufactures, built in an undefined style of
architecture, new to Edinburgh. Opposite, with
its back to the bridge, where a part of the line of
Liberton’s Wynd exists, is built the County Hall,
presenting fronts to the Lawnmarket and to St.
Giles’s. The last of these possesses no common
beauty, as it has a very lofty portico of finely-flutcd
columns, overshadowing a flight of steps leading to
the main entrance, which is modelled after the
choragic monument of Thrasyllus, while the ground
plan and style of ornament is an imitation of the
Temple of Erechtheius at Athens. It was erected
in 1817, and contains several spacious and lofty
court-rooms, with apartments for the Sheriff and
other functionaries employed in the business of the
county. The hall contains a fine statue of Lord
Chief Baron Dundas, by Chantrey.
is the power of genius, that with the name of the
Heart of Midlothian we couple the fierce fury of
the Porteous mob. “Antique in form, gloomy and
haggard in aspect, its black stanchioned windows,
opening through its dingy walls like the apertures
~
Adjoining it and stretching eastward is the library
of the Writers to the Signet. It is of Grecian architecture,
and possesses two long pillared halls of
beautiful proportions, the upper having Corinthian
columns, and a dome wherein are painted the
Muses. It is 132 feet long by about 40 broad,
and was used by George IV. as a drawing-room,
on the day of the royal banquet in the Parliament ,
House. Formed by funds drawn solely from contributions
by Writers to H.M. Signet, it is under
a body of curators. The library contains more
than 60,000 volumes, and is remarkably rich in
British and Irish history.
Southward of it and lying psxallel with it, nearer
the Cowgate, is the Advocates’ Library, two long
halls, with oriel windows on the north side. This
library, one of the five in the United Kingdom entitled
to a copy of every work printed in it, was
founded by Sir George Mackenzie, Dean of Faculty
in 168z, and contains some zoo,ooo volumes,
forming the most valuable cpllection of the kind
in Scotland. The volumes of Scottish poetry alone
exceed 400. Among some thousand MSS. are those
of Wodrow, Sir James Balfour, Sir Robert Sibbald,
and others. In one of the lower compartments
may be seen Greenshield’s statue of Sir Walter
Scott, and the original volume of Waverley; two
volumes of original letters written by Mary Queen
of Scots and Charles I.; the Confession of Faith
signed by James VI. and the Scottish nobles in
1589-90; a valuable cabinet from the old Scottish
mint in the Cowgate; the pennon borne by
Sir William Keith at Flodden; and many other
objects of the deepest interest. The office of
librarian has been held by many distinguished
men of letters; among them were Thomas Ruddiman,
in 1702; David Hume, his successor, in,
1752 ; Adani Ferguson ; and David Irving, LL.D.
A somewhat minor edifice in the vicinity forms
the library of the Solicitors before the Supreme
Court ... body of curators. The library contains more than 60,000 volume s, and is remarkably rich in British and Irish ...

Vol. 1  p. 123 (Rel. 0.63)

322 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. lcolinton.
the Belitice Puetaruni Scuiurum. He was a convert
to the Protestant religion, and the chief work of
his pen is his learned book on feudal law. It has
been well said that lie U kept himself apart from the
political intrigues of those distracting times, devoting
himself to his professional duties, and in his
hours of relaxation cultivating a taste for classical
literature.”
He was present at the entry of King James into
London, and at his coronation as King of England,
an event which he commemorated in a poem in
Latin hexameters. In 1604 he was one of the
commissioners appointed by the king to confer
with others on the part of England, concerning
a probable union between the two countries, a
favourite project with James, but somewhat Utopian
when broached at a time when men were living
who had fought on the field of Pinkie.
He wrote a treatise on the independent
sovereignty .of Scotland, which was published in
1675, long after his death, which occurred at Edinburgh
on the 26th of February, 1Go8. He married
Helen, daughter of Heriot of Trabrown, in East
Lothian, by whom he had seven children. His
eldest son, Sir Lewis Craig, born in 1569, became
a senator, as Lord Wrightislands
On the death of his lineal descendant in 1823,
Robert Craig of Riccarton (of whom mention was
made in our chapter on Princes Street in the
second volume of this work), James Gibson, W.S.
(afterwards Sir James Gibson-Craig of Riccarton
and Ingliston), assumed the name and arms of
Craig in virtue of a deed of entail made in 1818.
He was a descendant of the Gibsons of Durie, in
Fife.
His eldest son was the late well-known Sir
William Gibson-Craig, who was born and August,
1797, and, after receiving his education in Edinburgh,
was called as, an advocate to the Scottish
Bar in 1820. He was M.P. for Midlothian from
1837 to 1841, when he was returned for the city of
Edinburgh, which he continued to represent till
1852. He was a Lord of the Treasury from 1846
to 1852, and was appointed one of the Board
of Supervision for the Poor in Scotland. In 1854
he was appointed Lord Clerk Register of Her
Majesty’s Rolls and Registers in Scotland in 1862,
and Keeper of the Signet. He was a member of
the Privy Council in 1863, and died in 1878.
Riccarton House, a handsome modern villa of
considerable size, has now replaced the old
mansion of other times.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (cmtinzted).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghorn-The Pentlands-View from Torphin-Corniston-Slateford
-Graysmill-Liherton-The Mill at Nether Libertan-Liberton Tower-The Church-The Balm Well of St. Kathrrine-Grace Mount-
The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St. Katherine’s-The Kaimes-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little of Liberton.
THE picturesque little parish village of Colinton,
about a mile and a quarter from Kingsknowe
Station, on the Caledonian Railway, is romantically
situated in a deep and wooded dell, through which
the Water of Leith winds on its way to the Firth
of Forth, and around it are many beautiful walks
and bits of sweet sylvan scenery. The lands here
are in the highest state of cultivation, enclosed by
ancient hedgerows tufted with green coppice, and
even on the acclivities of the Pentland range, at
the height of 700 feet above the sea, have been
rendered most profitably arable.
In the wooded vale the Water of Leith turns
the wheels of innumerable quaint old water-mills,
and through the lesser dells, the Murray, the Braid,
and the Burdiehouse Burns, enrich the parish with
their streams.
Of old the parish was called Hailes, from the
plural, it is said, of a Celtic word, which signifies a
mound or hillock. A gentleman’s residence near
the site of the old church still retains the name,
which is also bestowed upon a well-known quarry
and two other places in the parish. The new
Statistical Account states that the name of Hailes
was that of the principal family in the parish, which
was so called in compliment to them’; but this
seems barely probable.
The little church-which dates from only 1771-
and its surrounding churchyard, are finely situated
on a sloping eminence at the bottom of a dell,
round which the river winds slowly by.
The ancient church of Hailes, or Colinton, was
granted to Dunfermline Abbey by Ethelred, son of
Malcolm Canmore and of St. Margaret, a gift confirmed
by a royal charter of David I., and by a Bull
of Pope Gregory in 1234, according to the abovequoted
authority ; but the parish figures so little in
history that we hear nothing of it again till 1650, ... in our chapter on Princes Street in the second volume of this work), James Gibson, W.S. (afterwards Sir ...

Vol. 6  p. 322 (Rel. 0.63)

Waniston.] LORD WARRISTON. 99
family, the Laird of Dunipace ; but, owing to some
alleged ill-treatment, she grew estranged from him,
and eventually her heart became filled with a
deadly hatred.
An old and attached nurse began to whisper of
a means of revenge and relief from her married
thraldom, and thus she was induced to tamper
with a young man named Robert Weir, a servant
or vassal of her father at Dunipace, to become her
instrument.
At an early hour in the morning of the 2nd of
July, Weir came to the place of Warriston, and
being admitted by the lady to the chamber of her
husband, beat him to death with his clenched fists.
He then fled, while the lady and her nurse remained
at home. Both were immediately seized,
subjected to a summary trial of some kind before
the magistrates, and sentenced to death ; the lady
to have “ her heade struck frae her bodie ” at the
Canongate Cross.
In the brief interval between sentence and execution,
this unfortunate young girl, who was only
twenty-one, was brought, by the impressive discourse
of a good and amiable clergyman, from a
state of callous indifference to a keen sense of
her crime, and also of religious resignation. Her
case was reported in a small pamphlet of the day,
entitled, “Memorial of the Conversion of Jean
Livingston (Lady Waniston), with an account of
her carriage at her execution ”-a dark chapter of
Edinburgh social history, reprinted by Charles
Kirkpatrick Sharpe. “She stated, that on Weir
assaulting her husband, she went to the hall, and
waited till the deed was done. She thought she
still heard the pitiful cries uttered by her husband
while struggling with his murderer.” She tried to
. weep, but not a tear could she shed, and could
only regard her approaching death as a just expiation
of her crime.
Deeply mortified by the latter and its consequences,
her relations used every effort to secure
as much privacy as was possible for the execution;
hence it was arranged that while her nurse
was being burned on the Castle Hill at four o’clock
in the morning, thus attracting the attention of
all who might be out of bed at that time, Lady
Waniston should be taken to the Girth Cross, at
the east end of the town, and there executed by
the Maiden.
“The whole way as she went to the place,”
says the pamphlet referred to, “ she behaved herself
so cheerfully as if she was going to her
wedding, and not to her death. When she came
to the scaffold, and was carried up upon it, she
looked up to the Maiden with two longsome looks,
for she had never seen it before.
of her, to which all that saw her will bear record,
that her only countenance moved [sic, meaning
that its expression alone was touching], although
she had not spoken a word; for there appeared
such majesty in her countenance and visage, and
such a heavenly courage in gesture, that many
said, ‘That woman is gifted with a higher spirit
than any man or woman’s! ’”
She read an address to the spectators at the four
corners of the scaffold, and continued to utter
expressions of devotion till the swift descent of
the axe decapitated her. Balfour, in his “Annals,”
gives the year 1599 as the date of this tragedy.
Four years after Weir was taken, and on the
26th January, 1606, was broken on the wheel, a
punishment scarcely ever before inflicted in Scotland.
In the year 1619 Thomas Kincaid of Wamston
was returned heir to his father Patrick Kincaid of
Warriston, in a tenement in Edinburgh. This was
probably the property that was advertised in the
Couranf of 1761, as about to be sold, “that
great stone tenement of land lying at the head of
the old Bank Close, commonly called Warriston’s
Land, south side of the Lawn Market, consisting
of three bedchambers, a dining-room, kitchen, and
garret.” There is no mention of a drawing-room,
such apartments being scarcely known in the Edinburgh
of those days.
In 1663 another proprietor of Warriston came
to a tragic end, and to him we have already referred
in our account of Waniston’s Close.
This was Sir Archibald Johnston, who was known
as Lord Warriston in his legal capacity. He wag
an advocate of 1633. In 1641 he was a Lord of
Session. He was made Lord Clerk Register by
Cromwell, who also created him a peer,under the title
of Lord Wamston, and as such he sat for a time
in the Upper House in Parliament. After the
Restoration he was forfeited, and fled, but was
brought to Edinburgh and executed at the Marke
Cross, as we have recorded in Chapter XXV. ct.
Volume I.
Wodrow, in his “History of the Church of
Scotland,” states that Wamston’s memoirs, in his
handwriting, in the form of a diary, are still extant ;
if so, they have never seen the light. His character,
admirably drawn in terse language by his nephew,
Bishop Burnet, is thus given in the U History of his
Own Times,” Vol. 1.:-
“ Waniston was my own uncle. He was a man of
great application ; could seldom sleep above three
hours in the twenty-four. He studied the law
carefully, and had a great quickness of thought,
This I may say ,
.
* ... Marke Cross, as we have recorded in Chapter XXV. ct. Volume I. Wodrow, in his “History of the Church ...

Vol. 5  p. 99 (Rel. 0.62)

2 OLD AND NEW’ EDINBURGH. [Canongate.
refain its distinct dignity as a burgh of regality.
In its arms it bears the white hart’s head, with
the cross;crosslet of the miraculous legend betweeg
the horns, and the significant motto, (( SIC ITUR AU
As the main avenue from the palace to the city,
so a later writer tells us, it has borne upon its
pavement the burden of all that was beautiful and
gallant, and all that has become historically interesting
in Scotland for the last seven hundred years‘;
and though many of its houses have been modernised,
it still preserves its aspect of great quaintness and
vast antiquity.
It sprang up independent of the capital, adhering
naturally to the monastery, whose vassals and dependents
were its earliest builders, and retaining
to the last legible marks of a different parentage
from the city. Its magistrates claimed a feudal
lordship over the property of the regality as the
successors of its spiritual superiors ; hence many of
the title-deeds therein ran thus :-“ To be holden
of the Magistrates of the Canongate, as come in
place of the Monastery of the Holy Cross.”
The Canongate seems to have been a favourite
with the muse of the olden time, and is repeatedly
alluded to in familiar lyrics and in the more
polished episodes of the courtly poets of the sixteenth
and seventeenth centuries. A Jacobite
song has it :-
ASTR A. ’’
(‘ As I cam doun the Canongate,
As I cam doun the Canongate,
‘ Merry may the keel rowe.
The Canongate, the Canongate,
I heard a lassie sing,
That my true love is in,’ ” &c.
The (‘ Satire on Court Ladies ” tells us,
(‘ The lasses 0’ the Canongate,
Oh they are wondrous nice ;
They winna gie a single kiss
But for a dm& price.”
And an old song concerning a now-forgotten belle
says :--.
6‘ A’ doun alang the Canongate
Were beaux 0’ ilk degree ;
At bonny Mally Lee.
We’re a’ gaun agee,
Courtin’ Mally Lee ! ”
And mony ane turned round to look
And we’re a’ gaun east and west,
We’re a’ gaiin east and west,
’
The earliest of the register-books preserved in
the archives of this little burgh commences in 1561
-about a hundred years before Cromwell’s invasion;
but the volume, which comes down to
1588, had been long in private hands, acd was only
restored at a recent date, though much of it is
printed in the ‘‘ Maitland Miscellany ” for 1840.
Unlike Edinburgh, the Canongate had no walls
for defence-its gates and enclosures being for
civic purposes only. If it relied on the sanctity OF
its monastic superiors as a protection, it did so in
vain, when,,in 1380, Richard 11. of England gave
it to the flames, and the Earl of Hertford in 1544;
and in the civil wars during the time of Charles I.,
the jourhal of Antipities tells us that (( the Canongate
suffered severely from the barbarity of the
English-so much so that scarcely a house was
left standing.”
In 1450, when the first wall of the city was
built, its eastern extremity was the Nether Bow
Port. Open fields, in all probability, lay outside
the latter, and though the increasing suburb was.
then building, the city claimed jurisdiction within
it as far as the Cross of St. John, and the houses
crept gradually westward up the slope, till they
formed the present unbroken street from the
Nether Bow to the palace porch; but it seems
strange that even in the disastrous year 1513, when
the Cowgate was enclosed by a wall, no attempt
was made to secure the Canongate; though it had
gates which were shut at night, and it had boundary
walls, but not of a defensive character.
Of old, three crosses stood in the main street:
that of St. John, near the head of the present St.
John Street, at which Charles I. knighted the
Provost on his entering the city in 1633; the
ancient Market Cross, which formerly stood opposite
the present Tolbooth, and is represented in
Gordon’s Map as mounted on a stone gallery, like
that of the City Cross, and the shaft of which, a very
elegant design, still exists, attached to the southeast
corner of the just.named edifice. Its chief
use in later times was a pillory, and the iron
staple yet remains to which culprits were attached
by the iron collar named the jougs. The third,
or Girth Cross, stood at the foot of the Canongate,
IOO feet westward from the Abbey-strand. (‘ It
consisted,” says Kincaid, ‘( of three steps as ‘a
base and a pillar upon the top, and was called the
Girth Cross from its being the western limit of the
Sanctuary ; but in paving the street it was removed,,
and its place is now known by a circle of stones.
upon the west side of the well within the Water
Gate.”
In the earlier age$ of its history the canons tc,
whom the burgh belonged had liberty to buy and
sell in open market. It has been supposed by
several writers that a village of some kind had existed
on the site prior to the erection of the Abbey,
as the king says in more than one version of the  ... a hundred years before Cromwell’s invasion; but the volume , which comes down to 1588, had been long ...

Vol. 3  p. 2 (Rel. 0.62)

Arlhur‘s Seat.] DR. JOHN BELL 303
sity of Edinburgh that the Medical Society has
contributed much to the prosperity and reputation
of this school of physic.”
Such are still the objects of the Royal Medical
Society, which has now, however, quitted its old
hall and chambers for newer premises in 7 Melbourne
Place. Its staff consists of four presidents,
two honorary secretaries, curators of the library
and museum, with a treasurer and sub-librarian.
Many old citizens of good position had residences
in and near the High School yards and
Surgeon Square. Among these was Mr. George
Sinclair of Ulbster, who married Janet daughter of
Lord Strathmore, and who had a house of seven
rooms in the yard, which was advertised in the
Courant of 1761. His son was the eminent agriculturist,
and first baronet of the family.
In 1790 a theatre for dissections and an anatomical
museum were erected in Surgeon Square
by Dr. John Bell, the eminent anatomist, who was
born in the city on the 12th May, 1763, and who
most successfully applied the science of anatomy
to practical surgery-a profession to which, curiously
enough, he had from his birth been devoted by
his father. The latter,about a month before the
child’s birth, had-when in his 59th yea-undergone
with successapainful surgicaloperation, and his gratitude
led him tovowhe would rear his son John to the
cause of medicine for the relief of mankind ; and
after leaving the High School the boy was duly
apprenticed to Mr. Alexander Wood, surgeon, and
soon distinguished himself in chemistry, midwifery,
and surgery, and then anatomy, which had been
somewhat overlooked by Munro.
In the third year after his anatomical theatre
had been opened in the now obscure little square,
he published his “ Anatomy of the Human Body,”
consisting of a description of the action and play
of the bones, muscles, and joints. In 1797 appeared
the second volume, treating of the heart
and arteries. During a brilliant career, he devoted
himself with zeal to his profession, till in 1816 he
was thrown from his horse, receiving a shock from
which his constitution never recovered.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
AKTHUR’S SEAT AND ITS VICINITY.
The Sanctuary-Geology of the Hill-Origin of its Name, and that of the Craigs-The Park Walls, 2554-A Banquet alfrrsc6The Pestilence
-A Duel-“The Guttit Haddie”-Mutiny of the Old 78th Regiment-Proposed House on the Summit-bfuschat and his Cairn-
Radical Road Formed-May Day-Skeletons found at the Wells 0’ Wearic-Park Improvements-The Hunter’s Bog-Legend of the
Hangman’s big-Duddingston-The Church-Rev. J. Thomson-Robert Monteith-The Loch-Its Sw-ans-Skatcrs--The Duddingston
Thoro-The Argyle and Abercorn FamilisThe Earl of Mob-Lady Flon. HastingsCnuvin’s Hospica-Parson’s Grecn-St.
Anlhonfs Chapel and Well-The Volunteer Renew before the Queen.
TAKING up the history of the districts of the city
in groups as we have done, we now come to Arthur‘s
Seat, which is already well-nigh surrounded, especially
on the west and north, by streets and
mansions.
Towering to the height of 822 feet above the
Forth, this hill, with the Craigs of Salisbury, occupies
the greater portion of the ancient Sanctuary of
Holyrood, which included the royal park (first
enclosed and improved from a condition of natural
forest by James V. and Queen Mary), St. Anne’s
Yard and the Duke’s Walk (both now obliterated),
the Hermitage of St. Anthony, the Hunter’s Bog,
and the southern parks as far as Duddingston, a
tract of five miles in circumference, in which persons
were safe from their creditors for twenty-four
hours, after which they must take out a Protectim,
as it was called, issued by the bailie of the abbey ;
the debtors were then at liberty to go where they
pleased on Sundays, without molestation j but later
legal alterations have rendered retirement to the
Sanctuary to a certain extent unnecessary.
The recent formation of the Queen’s Drive
round the hill, and the introduction of the rifle
ranges in the valley to the north of it, have destroyed
the wonderful solitude which for ages
reigned there, even in the vicinity of a busy and
stormy capital. Prior to these changes, and in
some parts even yet, the district bore the character
which Arnot gave it when he wrote :-“ Seldom are
human beings to be met in this lonely vale, or any
creature to be seen, but the sheep feeding on the
mountains, or the hawks and ravens winging their
flight among the rocks’: The aspect of the lionshaped
mountain and the outline of the craig
are known to every one. There is something certainly
grand and awful in the front of mighty slope
and broken rock and precipice, which the latter
present to the city. Greenstone, which has been
upheaved through strata surfaced with sandstone ... bones, muscles, and joints. In 1797 appeared the second volume , treating of the heart and arteries. During a ...

Vol. 4  p. 303 (Rel. 0.62)

270 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
under distinguished patronage has in no way
altered.
In 1763, on the 28th February, a thirty-guinea
purse was run for by Cartouch, a chestnut horse,
belonging to Lord Aberdour, Colonel of the old
Scots 17th Light Dragoons, a bay colt, belonging to
Francis Charteris of Amisfield, and a mare, belonging
to Macdowal of Castlesemple. The colt won.
In the following month, His Majesty's plate of a
hundred guineas, was won, against several other
horses, by Dunce, a chestnut, belonging to Charteris
bf Amisfield.
On the 4th March, the city purse of thirty
guineas was won by a bay colt, belonging to the
latter, against two English horses.
'' List of horses booked for His Majesty's purse
of IOO guineas, to be run for over the sands of
Leith, 1st July, 1771 . . . 29th June, appeared
William Sowerby, servant to Major Lawrie, and
entered a bay horse called 'Young Mirza ;' rider,
said Wm. ; livery crimson; and produced certificate,
dated at Lowther Hall, signed by Edward Halls,
dated 24th May, 1770, bearing the said horse to
be no more than four years old last grass. . .. ,
Appeared the Right Hon. the Earl of Kellie, entered
' Lightfoot.' Appeaed Sir Archibald Hope,
Bart. (of Pinkie), entered ' Monkey.' " Mirza won
For the race advertised for a pool of A60 and
upwards, the Duke of Buccleuch, who signed the
articles, marked Ago, to be paid in money, not
plate. '' Cornpeared, Mr. James Rannie, merchant
in Leith, and entered a bay horse, ' Cockspur,' belonging
toHis Grace the Dukeof Buccleuch." Itwon.
The Duke of Hamilton and the Earl of Eglinton
repeatedly entered horses (says Robertson) ;
and in I 7 7 7 the former gave the I 00 guineas won
to aid in the construction of the Observatory on
the Calton Hill.
In the ScatsMagazine for 1774 we find noted
the appearance at these races of the Count de
Fernanunez, " attended by the Chevalier Comanc,"
then on a tour through Scotland.
In 1816 the races were transferred to the Links
of Musselburgh permanently, for the sake of the
ground, which should be smooth turf; and though
attempts were made in 1839 and 1840 to revive
them again at Leith, they proved abortive.
the purse. '09-
CHAPTER XXXI.
LE I T H-T HE HA R B 0 U R
Thc Admiral and Bailie Courts-The Leith Science (Navigation) School-The Harbour of Leith-The Ekr-The Wooden Piers-Early Improve.
ments of the Harbour-Erection of Beacons-The Custom House Quay-The Bridges-Rennie's Report on the required Docks-The
Mortons' Building-yard-The F'resent Piers-The Martello Tower.
THOUGH the Right Hon. the Lord Provost of
Edinburgh is'Admira1 of the Firth of Forth, the
Provost of Leith is Admiral of the port thereof,
and his four bailies are admirals-depute. These,
With the clerk, two advocates as joint assessors,
and an officer, constitute the Admiral and Bailie
Courts of Leith.
There is also a society of solicitors before this
court, having a preses and secretary.
For the development of nautical. talent here,
there is the Leith Science (Navigation) School, in
Eonnection with the Department of Science and Art,
With local managers-the provost and others, ex
o#&, the senior bailie, master and assistant-master
of the Trinity House, chairman of the Chamber of
Commerce, etc.
The harbour of Leith is formed by the little
estuary of the river into the Firth of Forth, and is
entirely tidal, and was of old, with the exception
of being traversed by the shallow and unimportant
stream which takes its rise at the western base of
the Pentlands, quite dry at low water, and even I the channel towards the side streams of the Firth."
yet its depth is trifling. As the Water of Leith
has to make its way seaward, across the very broad
and flat shore called the Sands of Leith, alternately
flooded by the tide and left nearly dry, the
channel, in its natural state, was subject to much
fluctuation, according to the setting in of the tides.
A bar, too-such as is thrown up at the entrance
of almost every river mouth-lies across
its entrance, formed at that point where the antagonistic
currents of the river and tide bring
each other into stagnation or equipoise, and then
deposit whatever silt they contain. Thus, says a
writer, '' the river constantly, and to an important
amount, varies both the depth of the harbour and
the height of the position of the bar, according
to the fluctuations which occur in the volume of its
~ water or the rapidity of its discharge; for in a
season of drought it leaves everything open to the
invasion of sediments from the tide, at other times
it scours away lodgments made on its bed, drives
seaward and diminishes in bulk the bar, and deepens ... the river constantly, and to an important amount, varies both the depth of the harbour and the height ...

Vol. 6  p. 270 (Rel. 0.62)

Gnonpnte.] JVHN PATERSON. I1
The latter is an anagram on the name of “John
Paterson,” while the quatrain was the production
of Dr. Pitcairn, and is referred to in the first
volume of Gilbert Stuart’s Edinburgh Magazine
andRevim for 1774, and may be rendered thus:
--“In the year when Paterson won the prize in
golfing, a game peculiar to the Scots (in which his
ancestors had nine times won the same honour), he
then raised this mansion, a victory more honourable
than all the rest.”
According to tradition, two English nobles at
Holyrood had a discussion with the royal duke
as to the native country of golf, which he was
frequently in the habit of playing on the Links of
Leith with the Duke of Lauderdale and others,
and which the two strangers insisted to be an
English game as well, No evidence of this being
forthcoming, while many Scottish Parliamentary
edicts, some as old as the days of James II., in
1457, could be quoted concerning the said game,
the Englishmen, who both vaunted their expertness,
offered to test the legitimacy of their pretensions
on the result of a match to be played by them
against His Royal Highness and any other .Scotsman
he chose to select. After careful inquiry he
chose a man named John Paterson, a poor shoemaker
in the Canongate, but the worthy descendant
of a long line of illustrious golfers, and the association
will by no means surprise, even in the present
age, those who practise the game in the true old
Scottish spirit The strangers were ignominiously
beaten, and the heir to the throne had the best of
this practical argument, while Paterson’s merits
were rewarded by the stake played for, and he
built the house now standing in the Canongate.
On its summit he placed the Paterson arms-three
pelicans vuZned; on a chief three mullets ; crest,
a dexter-hand grasping a golf club, with the wellold
and well-known tradition, Chambers says, “it
must be admitted there is some uncertainty. The
house, the arms, and the inscriptions only indicate
that Paterson built the house after being victor at
golf, and that Pitcairn had a hand in decorating it.’’
In this doubt Wilson goes further, and believes
that the Golfers’ Land was Zmt, not won, by the
gambling propensities of its owner. It was acquired
by Nicol Paterson in 1609, a maltman in Leith,
and from him it passed, in 1632, to his son John
(and Agnes Lyel, his spouse), who died 23rd April,
1663, as appears by the epitaph upon his tomb in
the churchyard of Holyrood, which was extant in
Maitland’s time, and the strange epitaph on which
is given at length by Monteith. He would appear
to have been many times Bailie of the Canongate.
known mOttO-FAR AND SURE. Concerning this
Both Nicol and John, it may be inferred from the
inscriptions on the ancient edifice, were able and
successful golfers. The style of the bNilding, says
Wilson, confirms the idea that it had been rebuilt
by him “with the spoils, as we are bound to
presume, which he won on Leith Links, from ‘OUT
auld enemies of England.’ The title-deeds, however,
render it probable that other stakes had been
played for with less success. In 1691 he grants
a bond over the property for A400 Scots. This is
followed by letters of caption and hornhg, and
other direful symptoms of legal assault, which
pursue the poor golfer to his grave, and remain
behind as his sole legacy to his heirs.”
The whole tradition, however, is too serious to
be entirely overlooked, but may be taken by the
reader €or what it seems worth.
Bailie Paterson’s successor in the old mansion
was John, second Lord Bellenden of Broughton
and Auchnoule, Heritable Vsher of the Exchequer,
who married Mary, Countess Dowager of Dalhousie,
and daughter of the Earl of Drogheda. Therein
he died in 1704, and was buried in the Abbey
Church ; and as the Union speedily followed, like
other tenements so long occupied by the old
courtiers in this quarter, the Golfers’ Land became,
as we find it now, the abode of plebeians.
Immediately adjoining the Abbey Court-house
was an old, dilapidated, and gable-ended mansion
of no great height, but of considerable extent,
which was long indicated by oral tradition as the
abode of David Rizzio. It has now given place
to buildings connected with the Free Church of
Scotland. Opposite these still remain some of
the older tenements of this once patrician burgh,
distinguishable by their lofty windows filled in with
small square panes of glass ; and on the south side
of the street, at its very eastern end, a series of
pointed arches along the walls of the Sanctuary
Court-house, alone remain to indicate the venerable
Gothic porch and gate-house of the once famous,
Abbey of Holyrood, beneath which all that was
great and good, and much that was ignoble and
bad have passed and repassed in the days that are
no more.
. This edifice, of which views from the east and
west are still preserved, is supposed to have been
the work of “the good-Abbot Ballantyne,” who
rebuilt the north side of the church in 1490, and
to whom we shall have occasion to refer elsewhere.
His own mansion, or lodging, stood here on the
north side of the street, and the remains of it,
together With the porch, were recklessly destroyed
and removed by the Hereditary Keeper of the
Palace in 1753. ... Dr. Pitcairn, and is referred to in the first volume of Gilbert Stuart’s Edinburgh Magazine andRevim ...

Vol. 3  p. 11 (Rel. 0.61)

214 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
by the enterprising firm, but was conducted by
them in conjunction with other departments of
their trade.
The harbour of Leith is now a noble one, as it
underwent vast improvements, at an enormous
cost, during a long series of years up to 1877, including
various docks, to be described in their
place, with the best appliances of a prime port,
and great ranges of storehouses, together with two
magnificent wooden piers of great length, the west
being 3,123 feet, the east 3,530 feet. Both are
delightful promenades, and a small boat plies between
their extremities, so that a visitor may pass
out seaward by one pier and return by the other.
The formidable Martello Tower, circular in form,
bomb-proof, formed of beautiful white stone, and
most massive in construction, occupies a rock
called, we believe, of old, the Mussel Cape, but
which forms a continuation of the reef known as the
Black Rocks,
It stafids 1,500 feet eastward, and something
less than 500 south of the eastern pier-head, and
3,500 feet distant from the base of the ancient
signal-tower on the shore.
It was built to defend what was then the entrance
of the harbour, during the last long war
with France, at the cost of A17,ooo ; but now,
owing to the great guns and military inventions of
later times, it is to the fortifications on Inchkeith
that the port of Leith must look for protection.
CHAPTER XXXII.
MEMORABILIA OF THE SHIPPING OF LEITH AND ITS MARITIME AFFAIRS.
(Old Shipping laws-Early Whale Fishing--Letters of Marque against Hamburg-Captures of English Ships, 16p-x-First recorded Tonnage
of Leith-Imports-Arrest of Captain Hugh Palliser-Shore Dues, 1763-Wors’ Strike, 17g2-Tonnage in 188I-Passenger Traffic, etc.
-Letters of Marque-Exploits of ~me-Glance at Shipbuilding.
THE people of Scotland must, at a very early
period, have turned their attention to the art in
which they now excel-that of shipbuilding and
navigation, for in these and other branches of
industry the monks led the way. So far back as
1249, the Count of St. Paul, as Matthew of Paris
records, had a large ship built for him at Inverness:
and history mentions the fleets of William the
Lion and his successor, Alexander 11.; and it has
been conjectured that these were furnished by the
chiefs of the isles, so many of whom bore lymphads
in their coats-of-arms. During the long war
with the Edwards, Scottish ships rode at anchor
in their ports, cut out and carried off English
craft, till Edward III., as Tytler records from the
“ Rotuli Scotiz,” taunted his admirals and captains
with cowardice in being unable to face the
Scots and Flemings, to whom they dared not give
battle.
In 1336 Scottish ships swept the Channel coast,
plundering Guernsey, Jersey, and the Isle of Wight;
and Tyrrel records that the fleet which did so was
under the command of David Bruce, but this seems
doubtfuL
When Edward of England was efigaged in the
prosecution of that wicked war which met its just
reward on the field of Bannockbum, he had two
Scottish traitors who led his ships, named John
of hrn, and his son, Alan of Argyle, whose
names have deservedly gone to oblivion.
We first hear of shipping in any quantity in the
Firth of Forth in the year 1411, when, as Burchett
and Rapin record, a squadron of ten English ships of
war, under Sir Robert Umfraville, Vice-Admiral of
England, ravaged both shores of the estuary for
fourteen days, burned many vessels-among them
one named the Greaf GalZiof of Scotland--and returned
with so many prizes and such a mass of
plunder, that he brought down the prices of everything,
and was named “ Robin Mend-the-Market.”
The Wars of the Roses, fortunately for Scotland,
gave her breathing-time, and in that period she
gathered wealth, strength, and splendour ; she took
a part in European politics, and under the auspices
of James IV. became a naval power, so much so,
that we find by a volume culled from the “Archives
of Venice,” by Mr. Rawdon Brown, there are many
proofs that the Venetians in those days were
watching the influence of Scotland in counteracting
that of England by land and sea
Between the years 1518 and 1520, the “Burgh
Records ’ have some notices regarding the skippers
and ships of Leith ; and in the former year we find
that “ the maner of fraughting of schips of auld ” is
in form following: and certainly it reads mysteriously.
“ Alexander Lichtman hes lattin his schip cdlit
the Mairfene, commonly till fraught to the nychtbouns
of the Toune for thair guidis to be furit to
Flanders, for the fraught of xix s. gr. and xviij s. gr. ... IV. became a naval power, so much so, that we find by a volume culled from the “Archives of Venice,” by Mr. ...

Vol. 6  p. 274 (Rel. 0.61)

Parliament Close.
CHAPTER XIX.
THE PARLIAMENT CLOSE.
Probable Extinction of the Court of Session-Memorabilia of the Parliament Close and SquartGoldsmiths of the Olden Time-George Henot-
His Workshq-His Interview with James VI.-Peter Williamson’s Tavern-Royal Exchange-Statue of Charles 11.-Bank of Scotland-
The Fire of 17oo-The Work of Restoration-John Row’s Coffee-house-John’s Coffee-house-Sylvester Otway-Sir W. Forber’s Bank-
Si Walter Scott’s Eulogy on Si W i U i Forks-John Kay’s Print-shop-The Parliment Stairs- James Sibbald-A Libel CascFire
in June, 1824-Dr. Archibald Pitcairn-The “ Greping Ofice”-Painting of King Charles’s Statue White-Seal of Amauld Larnmius.
A CHANGE has come over the scene of their
labours and the system of. the law which these
d d lords could never have conceived possiblewe
mean the system that is gradually extending in
Scotland, of decentralising the legal business of the
country-a system which stands out in strong con-
,trast to the mode of judicial centralisation now
prevailing in England. The Scottish county
courts have a jurisdiction almost co-extensive
with that of the Supreme Court, while those of
England have a jurisdiction (without consent of
parties) to questions only of value. This gives
them an overwhelming amount of business, while
the supreme courts of Scotland are starved by the
ipferior competing with them in every kind of litigation.
Thus the Court of Session is gradually
dwindling away, by the active competition of the
provincial courts, and the legal school becomes
every day more defective for lack of legal practice.
The ultimate purpose, or end, of this system
will, undoubtedly, lead to the disappearance of the
Court of Session, or its amalgamation with the
supreme courts in London will become an object
of easy accomplishment ; and then the school from
whence the Scottish advocates and judges come,
being non-existent, the assimilation of the Scottish
county courts to those of England, and the sweep
-ing away of the whole legal business of the country
to London, must eventually follow, with, perhaps,
the entire subjection of Scotland to the English
courts of law.
A description of the Parliament Close is given in
the second volume of ‘‘ Peter‘s Letters to his Kinsfolk,”
before the great fire of 1824 :-
“The courts of justice with which all these
eminent men are so closely connected are placed
in and about the same range of buildings which
in former times were set apart for the accommodation
of the Parliament of Scotland. The main
approach to these buildings lies through a small
.oblong square, which from this circumstance takes
the name of fhcParlianient Close. On two sides
this close is surrounded by houses of the same
gigantic kind of elevation, and in these, of old,
were lodged a great proportion of the dignitaries
and principal practitioners of the adjacent Courts.
At present, however (181g), they are dedicated,
like most of the houses in the same quarter of the
city, to the accommodation of tradespeople and
inferior persons attached to the courts of law.
. . . . The southern side of the square and a
small portion of the eastern are filled with venerable
Gothic buildings, which for many generations
have been dedicated to the accommodation
of the courts of law, but which are now shut out
from the eye of the public by a very ill-conceived
and tasteless front-work, of modern device, including
a sufficient allowance of staring square
windows, Ionic pillars, and pilasters. What beauty
the front of the structure may have possessed in
its original state I have no means of ascertaining ;
but Mr. Wastle (J. G. Lockhart) sighs every time
we pass through the close, as pathetically as could
be wished, ‘over the glory that hath departed.‘
The old Parliament House, the front of which
has been destroyed and concealed by the arcaded
and pillared facade referred to, we have already
described. The old Goldsmiths’ Hall, on the
west side, formed no inconsiderable feature in the
close, where, about 1673, the first coffee-house
established in the city was opened.
The Edinburgh goldsmiths of the olden time
were deemed a superior class of tradesmen, and
were wont to appear in public with cocked hats,
scarlet cloaks, and gold-mounted canes, as men of
undoubted consideration. The father of John
Law of Lauriston, the famous financial projector,
was the son of a goldsmith in Edinburgh, where
he was born in April, 1671 ; but by far the most
famous of all the craft in the old Parliament Close
was George Heriot.
Down to the year 1780, says a historian, perhaps
there was not a goldsmith in Edinburgh who did
not condescend to manual labour. In their shops
every one of them might have been found busy
with some light work, and generally in a very plain
dress, yet ever ready to serve a customer, politely
and readily. The whole plate shops of the city
being collected in or near the Parliament Close,
thither it was that, till the close of the eighteenth
century, country couples resorted-the bride to get
her bed and table napery and trousseau ; there, too,
were got the nuptial ring, and ‘‘ the silver spoons,”
and, as the goldsmiths of the city then kept scarcely ... of the Parliament Close is given in the second volume of ‘‘ Peter‘s Letters to his ...

Vol. 1  p. 174 (Rel. 0.61)

282 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
style, with many ornate gables, dormer windows,
%ut was a second time stolen ; and in the strangulation
on the scaffold, and the being fouricl in a
ditch among water, the superstitious saw retributive
justice for the murder of which he was
assumed to be guilty. “ I t will be acknowledged,”
says the author of the “ Domestic Annals,”
“that in the circumstances related there is not a
particle of valid evidence against the young man.
The surgeons’ opinion as to the fact of strangulation
is not entitled to much regard ; but, granting
its solidity, it does not prove the guilt of the ac-
.cused. The horror of the young man on seeing
his father’s blood might be referred to painful recol-
Jections of that profligate conduct which he knew
had distressed his parent, and brought his grey
hairs with sorrow to the grave-especially when we
reflect that Stanfield would himself be impressed
with the superstitious feelings of the age, and might
.accept the hzmorrhage as an accusation by heaven
on account of the concern his conduct had in
shortening the life of his father. The whole case
:seems to be a lively illustration of the effect of
superstitious feelings in blinding justice.”
We have thus traced the history of the High
Street and its closes down once more to the
Nether Bow.
In the World’s End Close Lady Lawrence was
a residenter in 1761, and Lady Huntingdon in 1784,
and for some years after the creation of the New
Town, people of position continued to linger in the
Old Town and in the Canongate. And from Peter
Williamson’s curious little ‘‘ Directory ” for 1784,
we can glean a few names, thus :-
I Scottish gentleman, who, though he did not partici-
Lady Mary Carnegie, in Bailie Fyfe’s Close;
Lady Colstoun and the Hon. Alexander Gordon,
on the Castle Hill; General Douglas, in Baron
Maule’s Close; Lady Jean Gordon, in the Hammerman’s
Close; Sir James Wemyss, in Riddle’s
Close; Sir John Whiteford of that ilk, in the
Anchor Close ; Sir Jameg Campbell, in the Old
Bank Close; Erskine of Cardross, in the Horse
Wynd ; Lady Home, in Lady Stair’s Close.
In Monteith‘s Close, in 1794, we find in the
“ Scottish Hist. Register for 1795 recorded the
death of Mr. John Douglas, Albany herald, uncle
of Sir Andrew Snape Douglas, who was captain of
the Queen CharZoffe, of IIO guns, and who fought
her so valiantly in Lord Bridport’s battle on “ the
glonous 23rd of June, 1795.” The house occupied
‘by Lady Rothiemay in Turk’s Close, below
Liberton’s Wynd, was advertised for sale in the
Couranf of 1761 ; and there lived, till his death in
1797, James Nelson, collector of the Ministers’
Widows’ Fund.
In Morrison’s Close in 1783, we find one of the
most fashionable modisfes of Edinburgh announcing
in the Adverfiser of that year, that she is from “one
of the most eminent houses in London,” and that
her work is finished in the newest fashions :-
“ Chemize de Lorraine, Grecian Robes, Habit Bell,
Robe de Coure, and Levites, different kinds, all in
the most genteel and approved manner, and on the
most reasonable terms.”
In the same year, the signboard of James and
Francis Jeffrey, father and uncle of Lord Jeffrey,
still hung in the Lawnmarket.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL.
h r d ’Cockburn Street-Lord Cockburn-The Scotsmun NewspapeFCharles Maclaren and Alexander Russel-The Queen’s Edinburgh
Rifle Brigade-St. Giles Street-Sketch of the Rise d Journalism in Edinburgh-The EdinQxrgk Courunt-The Daily Rnrieur-Jelfrey
Street-New Trinity College Church
THE principal thoroughfare, which of late years has
been run through the dense masses of the ancient
alleys we have been describing, is Lord Cockburn
Street, which was formed in 1859, and strikes
northward from the north-west corner of Hunter‘s
Square, to connect the centre of the 012 city with
-the railway terminus at Waverley Bridge ; it goes
curving down a comparatively steep series of slopes,
and is mainly edificed in the Scottish baronial
lofty tenements in many of the closes that descend
from the north side of the High Street, and was
very properly named after Lord Cockburn, one
entitled to special remembrance on many accounts,
and for the deep interest he took in all matters
connected with his birthplace. When he died,
in April, 1854, he was one of the best and kindliest
of the old school of “Parliameht House Whigs,”
and was a thorough, honest, shrewd, and benevolent
and conical turrets, high over all of which towers
. the dark and mighty mass of the Royal Exchange.
This new street expdses aromantic section of the
pate to any extent in the literary labours of his
contemporaries, has left behind him an interesting
volume of “ Memorials.” Many can yet recall his ... of his contemporaries, has left behind him an interesting volume of “ Memorials.” Many can yet recall ...

Vol. 2  p. 282 (Rel. 0.6)

North Bridge.] ADAM BLACK. 339
removal in 1850 to a handsome and more spacious
.one, built in a kind of old Scoto-English style of
.architecture, an the opposite side, and on the site
of a portion of Halkerston’s Wynd, and numbered
as 6 in the street, the establishment of the old and
well-known firm of publishers, Adam and Charles
Black. The former, long a leading citizen, magistrate,
and member of the city, was born in 1784,
.and died on the 24th of January, 1874.
Educated at the High School and University of
his native city Edinburgh, though but the son of a
humble builder, Adam Black raised himself to affluuence,
and is said to have more than once declined
the honour of knighthood. After serving his apprenticeship,
he started in business as a bookseller,
and among other important works brought out the
“ Encyclopzedia Britannica,” under the joint conduct
of Professor Macvey Napier and James
Browne, LL.D.; and to this his own pen contributed
many articles. From the beginning of his
career he took an active part in the politics of the
city, and in the early part of the present century was
among the boldest of the slender band of Liberals
who stood up for burgh reform, as the preliminary
to the great measure of a Parliamentary one.
When the other wel!-known firm of constable
and Co. failed, the publication of The Edinburgh
Revim passed into the hands of Adam Black, and
thus drew the Liberal party more closely by his
side. He was Provost of the city from 1843 to
1848, and filled his trust so much to the satisfaction
of the citizens, that they subscribed to have
his portrait painted to ornament the walls of the
Council Room. He was proprietor, by purchase,
of the copyright of ‘‘ The Waverley Novels,” and
many other works by Sir Walter Scott. It was
when he was beyond his seventieth year that he
was returned to the House of Commons as member
. for the city, in succession to Lord Macaulay ; and
being a member of the Independent body, he
was ever an advocate for unsechrian education,
absolute freedom of trade, and the most complete
toleration in religion; but the cradle of his fortunes
was that little shop which till 1821 was, as
we said, deemed ample enough for the postal
establishment and requirements of all Scotland.
The new buildings along the west side of the
North Bridge, from Princes Street to the first open
arch, were erected between 1817 and 1819, with a
Tange of shops then deemed magnificent, but far
outshone by hundreds erected since in their vicinity,
These buildings are twice the height in rear that
they are to the bridge front, and their erection
intercepted a grand view from Waterloo Place
south-westward to the Castle, and thus roused a
spirited, but, as it eventually proved, futile resistance,
on the part of Cockburn and Cranston, Professor
Playfair, Henry Mackenzie, James Stuart of
Dunearn, and others, who spent about &I,OOO in
the work of opposition.
Their erection led to the demolition of a small
edificed thoroughfare named Ann Street, which
once contained the house of a well-known literary
citizen, John Grieve, who gave free quarters to
James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, when the latter
arrived in Edinburgh in 1810, and published a
little volume of poems entitled “The Forest Mintrel,”
from which he derived no pecuniary benefit.
Poverty was pressing sorely on Hogg, “but,” says
a biographer, “he found kind and steady friends in
Messrs. Grieve and Scott, hatters, whose welltimed
benevolence supplied all his wants.”
While he was still in obscurity, John Grieve
obtained him introductions to Professor Wilson
and other local literati, which ultimately led to his
becoming a contributor to BZackwood’s Magazine.
Mr. Grieve is referred to in the quarrel between
the Shepherd and the Blackwoods concerning the
famous Nocft-s Ambrosiana ’ He ceased to contribute,
whereupon Wilson wrote thus to Grieve on
the subject :-
“If Mr. Hogg puts his return to ‘Maga’ on the
ground that ‘ Maga’ suffers from his absence from
her pages, and that Mr. B. must be very desirous
of his re-assistance, that will be at once a stumblingblock
in the way of settlement ; for Mr. B., whether
rightly or wrongly, will not make, the admission.
No doubt Mr. H.’s articles were often excellent,
and no doubt ‘Noctes’ were very popular, but the
magazine, however much many readers must have
missed Mr. Hogg and the ‘Noctes,’ has been
gradually increasing in sale, and therefore Mr.
B. will never give in to that view of the Subject.
“ Mr. Hogg in his letter to me, and in a long
conversation I had with him in my own house
yesterday after dinner, sticks to his proposaf of LIOO settled on him, on condition of writing,
and becoming again the hero of the ‘Noctes’ as
before. I see many difficulties in the way of such
an arrangement, and I know that Mr. Blackwood
will never agree to it in any shape, for it might
eventually prove degrading and disgraceful to both
parties, appearing to the public to be a bribe given
and taken dishonourably.”
“My father,” adds Mrs. Gordon, whose life of
the Professor we quote, “never wrote another
‘Noctes ’ after the Shepherd‘s death, which took
place in 1835.”
In consequence of tie increase of populatibn
and traffic by its vicinity to the railway termini, ... in Edinburgh in 1810, and published a little volume of poems entitled “The Forest ...

Vol. 2  p. 339 (Rel. 0.6)

192 OLD AND PEW EDINBUKGH. [Leith.
on the coast of East Lothian, from whence the way
to England was open and free.
But the daring Mackintosh suddenly conceived
a very different enterprise. The troops under him
were all picked men, drawn from the regiments of
the Earls of Mar and Strathmore, of Lord Nairn,
Lord Charles Murray, and Logie-Drummond, with
his own clan the Mackintoshes. With these he
conceived the idea of capturing Edinburgh, then
only seventeen miles distant, and storming the
Castle. But the Provost mustered the citizens,
placed the City Guard, the Trained Bands, and
the Volunteers, at all vulnerable points, and sent to
Argyle, then at Stirling, on the 14th October, for
aid.
At ten that night the Duke, at the head of only
300 dragoons mounted on farm horses, and 200
infantry, passed through the city just as the Highlanders,
then well-nigh worn out, halted at Jock’s
Lodge.
Hearing of the Duke’s arrival, and ignorant of
what his forces might be, the brigadier wheeled off
to Leith, where his approach excited the most ludicrous
consternation, as it had done in Edinburgh,
where, Campbell says in his History, ‘‘ the approach
of 50,000 cannibals” could not have discomposed
the burgesses more. Mackintosh entered Leith
late at night, released forty Jacobite prisoners from
the Tolbooth, and took possession of the citadel,
the main fortifications of which were all intact, and
now enclosed several commodious dwellings, used
as bathing quarters by the citizens of Edinburgh.
How Argyle had neglected to garrison this strong
post it is impossible to conjecture; but “Old
Borlum “-as he was always called-as gates were
wanting, made barricades in their place, took eight
pieces of cannon from ships in the harbour, provisioned
himself from the Custom House, and by
daybreak next morning was in readiness to receive
the Duke of Argyle, commander of all the forces
in Scotland.
At the head of 1,000 men of all arms the latter
approached Leith, losing‘on the way many volunteers,
who “ silently slipped out of the ranks and
returned to their own homes.” He sent a message
to the citadel, demanding a surrender on one hand,
and threatening no quarter on the other. To
answer this, the Laird of Kynachin appeared on
the ramparts, and returned a scornful defiance.
‘‘ As to surrendering, they laughed at it ; and as to
assaulting them, they were ready for him ; they
would neither give nor take quarter; and if he
thought he was able to force them, he might try his
hand.”
Argyle carefully reconnoitred the citadel, and,
‘ I
with the concurrence of his officers, retired with
the intention of attacking in strength next day ;
but Borlum was too wary to wait for him. Resolving
to acquaint Mar with his movements, he
sent a boat across the Firth, causing shots to be
fired as it left Leith to deceive the Hanoverian
fleet, which allowed it to pass in the belief that it
contained friends of the Government ; and at nine
that night, taking advantage of a cloudy sky, he
quitted the citadel with all his troops, and, keeping
along the beach, passed round the head of the pier
at low water, and set out on his march for England.
Yet, though the darkness favoured him, it led to
one or two tragic occurrences. Near Musselburgh
some mounted gentlemen, having fired upon the
Highlanders, led the latter to believe that all horsemen
were enemies; thus, when a mounted man
approached them alone, on being challenged in
Gaelic, and unable to reply in the same language,
he was shot dead.
The slain man proved to be Alexander Malloch,
of Moultray’s Hill, who was coming to join them.
“ The brigadier was extremely sorry for what had
taken place, but he was unable even to testify the
common respect of a friend by burying the deceased.
He had only time to possess himself of the money
found on the corpse-about sixty guineas-and then
leave it to the enemy.’’
The advance of Mar rendered Argyle unable to
pursue Borlum, who eventually joined Forster,
shared in his defeat, and would have been hanged
and quartered at Tyburn, had he not broken out
of Newgate and escaped to France.
A few days after his departure from Leith, the
Trained Bands there were ordered to muster on the
Links, to attend their colours and mount guard,
‘‘ at tuck of drumme, at what hour their own officers
shall appoint, and to bring their best armes along
with them.”
There is a curious “ dream story,” as Chambers
calls it in his “Book of Days,” connected with
Leith in 1731, which Lady Clerk of Penicuik ( d e
Mary Dacre, of Kirklinton in Cumberland), to
whom we have referred in our first volume, communicated
to BZwkwood’s Magazine in 1826. She
related that her father was attending classes in
Edinburgh in 1731, and was residing under the
care of an uncle-Major Griffiths-whose regiment
was quartered in the castle. The young man had
agreed to join a fishing party, which was to start
from .Leith harbour next morning. No objection
was made by Major or Mrs. Griffiths, from whom
he parted at night. During her sleep the latter
suddenly screamed out : “The boat is sinkingoh,
save them !” The major awoke her, and said : ... in Cumberland), to whom we have referred in our first volume , communicated to BZwkwood’s Magazine in 1826. ...

Vol. 5  p. 192 (Rel. 0.6)

322 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [1745!.
CEIAFTER XL.
E D I N B U R G H IN 1745.
Provost Stewart-Advance of the Jacobite Clans-Preparations for Defence-CapturC of the City-Lochiel’s Surprise--Entmnce of Prince
Charles-Arrival at Holyrood-James VIII. Proclaimed at the Cross+onduct of the Highland Troops in the City-Colquhoun Grant-
A Triumphal Procession-Guest’s Council of War-Preston’s Fidelity.
WE have referred to the alleged narrow escape of
Prince Charles Edward in the house of Provost
Stewart in the West Bow. Had he actually been
captured there, it is difficult to tell, and indeed useless
to surmise, what the history of the next few
years would have been. The Castle would probably
have been stormed by his troops, and we might
never have heard of the march into England, the
fields of Falkirk or Culloden. One of the most
singular trials consequent upon the rising of 1745
was that of Provost Stewart for ‘( neglect of duty,
misbehaviour in public office, and violation of trust
and duty.”
From his house in the Bow he had to proceed to
London in November, 1745. Immediately upon
his arrival he sent notice of it to the Secretary of
State, and underwent a long and vexatious trial
before a Cabinet CounciL He was taken into
custody, but was liberated upon the 23rd of
January, 1746, on bail to the extent of ~15,000,
to appear, as a traitor, before the High Court of
Justiciary at Edinburgh.
Whether it was that Government thought he was
really culpable in not holding out the extensive
and mouldering wal!s of Edinburgh against :troops
already flushed with success, and in opposition to
the wishes of the majority of the inhabitants, or
whether they meant only to intimidate the disaffected,
we shall not determine, says Arnot. Provost
Stewart was brought to trial, and the court
“fotind it relevant to infer the pains of law, that ihe
panel, at the time and place libelled, being then
Lord Provost of the City of Edinburgh, wilfully
neglected to pursue, or wilfully opposed, or obstqcted
when opposed by others, such measures as
were necessary for the defence of the city against
the rebels in the instances libelled, or so much
of them as do amount to such wilful neglect.”
After a trial, which occupies zoo pages of an
octavo volume (printed for Crawford in the Parlia-
.merit Close, r747), on the and of November, the
jury, the half of whom were country gentlemen,
returned a vcrdict, unanimously finding Provost
Stewart not guilty; but he would seem to have left
the city soon after. He settled in London, where
he became an eminent merchant, and died at
Bath, in 17S0, in the eighty-third year of hisage.
No epoch of. the past has left so vivid an
impression on the Scottish mind as the year 1745 ;
history and tradition, poetry and music, prove
this from the days of the Revolution down to those
of Burns, Scott, and others ; for the whole land
became filled with melodies for the lost cause and
fallen race ; while it is a curious fact, that not one
song or air can be found in favour of the victors.
Considerable discontent preceded the advent
of the Highlanders in Edinburgh, which then had
a population of only about 40,000 inhabitants.
Kincaid tells us that thep was an insurrection
there in 1741 in consequence of the high price of
food; and another in 1742, in consequence of a
number of dead bodies having been raised. The
former of these was not quelled without bloodshed,
and in the latter the houses of many suspected
persons were burned to the ground; and that
imaginary tribulation might not be wanting, we
learn from the autobiography of Dr. Carlyle of
Inveresk, that people now began to recall a prophecy
of Peden the pedlar, that the Clyde should
run with blood in 1744.
A letter from the Secretary of State to the Town
Council had made that body aware, so early as the
spring of 1744, that it was the intention of Prince
Charles to raise an insurrection in the Highlands,
and they hastened to assure the king of their
loyalty and devotion, to evince which they prepared
at once for the defence of the city, by
augmenting its Guard to 126 men, and mustering
the trained bands. After landing in the wilds of
Moidart, with only seven men, and unfurling his
standard in Glenfinnan, on the 19th of August,
1745, Charles Edward soon found himself at the
head of 1,200 followers, whose success in a few
petty encounters roused the ardour and emulation
of the Macdonalds, McLeans, and other warlike
septs, who rose in arms, to peril life and fortune
for the last of the old royal race.
The news of his landing reached Edinburgh on
the 8th of August, and it was quickly followed by
tidings of the muster in Glenfinnan, and the capture
of a company of the. 1st Royal Scots, at the
Spean Bridge, by Major Macdonald of Teindreich.
Early in July 5,000 stand of arms had been placed
in the Castle, which Lieutenant-General Sir John
Cope ordered to be provisioned, while he reinforced
its ordinary garrison by two companies of the 47th
regiment; and theLieutenant-Governor, Lieutenant-
General Preston, of Valleyfield (who had been
2 ... a trial, which occupies zoo pages of an octavo volume (printed for Crawford in the Parlia- .merit ...

Vol. 2  p. 322 (Rel. 0.6)

210 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
likely to have arisen. It happened by accident
that the Earl of Bothwell, coming out of the Earl
of Crawford’s lodging, was met by the Earl of Marr,
who was coming out of the Laird of Lochleven’s
lodging hard by; as it being about ten o’clock at
night, and so dark that they could not know one
another, he passed by, not knowing that the
Master of Glammis was there, but thinking it was
only the Earl of Marr. However, it was said that
some ambushment of men and hackbuttiers had
been duressed in the house by command of both
parties.”
Some brawl or tragedy had evidently been on
the tapis, for next day the king had the Earl of
Bothwell and the Master before him at Holyrood,
and committed the former to ward .in the Palace
of Linlithgow, and the latter in the Castle of Edinburgh,
“ for having a band of hacquebuttiers in
ambush with treasonable intent.”
Passing to more peaceable times, on the same
side of the street, we come to one of the most
picturesque edifices in it, numbered as 155 (and
nearly opposite Niddry Street), in which Allan
Ramsay resided and began his earlier labours, “at
the sign of the Mercury,” before he removed, in
1726, to the shop in the Luckenbooths, where we
saw him last.
It is an ancient timber-fronted land, the sinplarly
picturesque aspect of which was much marred
by some alterations in 1845, but herein worthy
Allan first prosecuted his joint labours of author,
editor, and bookseller. From this place he issued
his poems in single or half sheets, as they were
mitten ; but in whatever shape they always found
a ready sale, the citizens being wont to send their
children with a penny for “ Allan Ramsay’s last
piece.” Here it was, that in 1724 he published
the first volume of “The Tea Table Miscellany,”
a collection of songs, Scottish and English,
dedicated
“ To ilka lovely British lass,
Frae Ladies Charlotte, Anne and Jean,
Wha dances barefoot on the green.”
This publication ran through twelve editions, and
its early success induced him in the same year to
bring out “ The Evergreen,” a collection of Scottish
poems, ‘‘ wrote by the Ingenious before 1600,”
professed to be selected from the Bannatyne MSS.
And here it was that .Ramsay- had some of his
hard struggles with the magistrates and clergy,
who deemed and denounced all light literature,
songs, and plays, as frivolity and open profanity, in
She sour fanatical spirit of the age.
Doon to ilk bonny singing Bess
Religion, in form, entered more into the daily
habits of the Scottish people down to 1730 than it
now does. Apart from regular attendance at
church, and daily family worship, each house had
some species of oratory, wherein, according to the
Domestic Annals, “ the head of the family could
at stated times retire for his private devotions,
which were usually of a protracted kind, and often
accompanied by great moanings and groanings,
expressive of an intense sense of human worthlessness
without the divine favour.” Twelve
o’clock was the hour for the cold Sunday dinner.
(‘ Nicety and love of rich feeding were understood
to be the hateful peculiarities of the English, and
unworthy of the people who had been so much
more favoured by God in the knowledge of matters
of higher concern.” Puritanic rigour seemed to
be destruction for literature, and when Addison,
Steele, and Pope, were conferring glory on that of
England, Scotland had scarcely a writer of note ;
and Allan Ramsay, in fear and trembling of legal
and clerical censure, lent out the plays of Congreve
and Farquhar from that quaint old edifice
numbered 155, High Street.
The town residence of the Ancrum family was
long one of the finest specimens of the timberfronted
tenements of the High Street. It stood on
the north side, at the head of Trunk‘s Close,
behind the Fountain Well, and though it included
several rooms with finely-stuccoed ceilings, and a
large hall, beautifully decorated with rich pilasters
and oak panelling-and was undoubtedly worthy
of being preserved-it was demolished in 1873.
Here was the first residence of Scott of Kirkstyle,
who, in 1670, obtained a charter under the great
seal of the barony of Ancrum, and in the following
year was created Sir John Scott, Baronet, by
Charles 11.
In 1703 the house passed into the possession of
Sir Gilbert Elliot, Bart., of Stobs, who resided here
with his eight sons, the youngest of whom, for his
glorious defence of Gibraltar, was created Lord
Heathfield in 1787.
On the same side of the street, Archibald
Constable, perhaps the most eminent publisher
that Scotland has produced, began business in a
small shop, in the year 1795, and from there, in
the November .of that year, he issued the first of
that series of sale catalogues of curious and rare
books, which he continued for a few years to
issue at intervals, and which attracted to his shop
all the bibliographers and lovers of literature in
Edinburgh.
Hither came, almost daily, such men as Richard
Heber, afterwards M.P. for the University of ... Here it was, that in 1724 he published the first volume of “The Tea Table Miscellany,” a collection ...

Vol. 2  p. 210 (Rel. 0.6)

114 OLD APU’D NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstorphine.
meaning, no doubt, the panelled box-beds so
common of old in Scotland.
There was a mineral well at Corstorphine, which
was in such repute during the middle of the last
century, that in 1749 a coach was established to
run between the village and the city, making eight
or nihe trips each week-day and four on Sunday.
“ After this time the pretty village of Corstorphine,”
says a writer, “ situated at the base of the
hill, on one of the Glasgow roads, in the middle of
the meadow land extending from Coltbridge to
Redheughs, was a place of great gaiety during summer,
and balls and other amusements were then
common.’’
The Sja, as it was called, was sulphureous, and
similar in taste to St. Bernard‘s Well at Stockbridge,
and was enclosed at the expense of one
of the ladies of the Dick family of Prestonfield,
who had greatly benefited by the water. It stood
in the south-west portion of the old village, called
Janefield, within an enclosure, and opposite a few
thatched cottages. Some drainage operations in
the neighbourhood caused a complete disappearance
of the mineral water, and the last vestiges
of the well were removed in 1831. “ Near the
village,” says the “ New Statistical Account,” ‘‘ in
a. close belonging to Sir William Dick, there long
stood a sycamore of great size and beauty, the
largest in Scotland.”
The Dick family, baronets of Braid (and of
Prestonfield) had considerable property in Corstorphine
and the neighbourhood, with part of Cramond
Muir. “ Sir James, afterwards Sir Alexander Dick,
for his part of the barony of Corstorphine,” appears
rated in the Valuation Roll of 1726 at A1,763 14s.
The witty and accomplished Lady Anne Dick of
Corstorphine (the grand-daughter of the first Earl
of Cromarty), who died in 1741, has already been
referred to in our first volume.
Regarding her family, the following interesting
aotice appears in the Scots Magazine for 1768.
“Edinburgh, March 14th. John Dick, Esq., His
Britannic Majesty’s Consul at Leghorn, was served
heir to Sir Tlrilliam Dick of Braid, Baronet. It
appeued that all the male descendants of Sir
TVilliam Dick had failed except his youngest son
Captain Lewis, who settled in Northumberland, and
who was the grandfather of John Dick, Esq., his
only male descendant now in life, Upon which a
respectable jury unanimously found his propinquity
proved, and declared him to be now Sir John
Dick, Baronet. It is remarkable that Sir William
Dick of Braid lost his great and opulent estates in
the service of the public cause and the liberties
of his country, in consideration of which, when it
was supposed there was no heir male of the family,
a new patent was granted to the second son of
the heir male, which is now in the person of Sir
Alexander Dick of Prestonfield, Baronet. The
Lord Provost and magistrates of this city, in consideration
of Sir John Dick‘s services to his king
and country, and that he is the representative of
that illustrious citizen, who was himself Lord
Provost in 1638 and 1639, did Sir John the
honour of presenting him with ‘the freedom of the
city of Edinburgh. After the service an elegant
dinner was given at Fortune’s, to a numerous company,
consisting of gentlemen of the jury, and
many persons of distinction, who all testified their
sincere joy at the revival of an ancient and
respectable family in the person of Sir John Dick,
Baronet.”
Corstorphipe has lost the reputation it long en.
joyed for a once-celebrated delicacy, known as its
Cream, which was brought to the city on the backs
of .horses. The mystery of its preparation is thus
preserved in the old “Statistical Account” :--“They
put the milk, when fresh drawn, into a barrel or
wooden vessel, which is submitted to a certain
degree of heat, generally by immersion in warm
water, this accelerates the stage of fermentation.
Th9,serous is separated from the other parts of the
milk, the oleaginous and coagulable ; the serum is
drawn off by a hole in the lower part of the vessel ;
what remains is put into the plunge-chum, and,
after being agitated for some time, is sent to market
as Corstorphine Cream.”
High up on the southern slope of the hill stands
that humane appendage to the Royal Infirmary’
the convalescent house for patients who are cured,
but, as yet, too weak to work.
This excellent institution is a handsome twostoreyed
building in a kind of Tuscan style of
architecture, with a central block and four square
wings or towers each three storeys in height, with
pavilion roofs. The upper windows are all arched.
It has a complete staff, including a special surgeon,
chaplain, and matron.
The somewhat credulous author of the “ Night
Side of Nature,” records among other marvels, the
appearance of a mounted wraith upon Corstorphine
Hill.
Not very long ago, Mr. C-, a staid citizen
of Edinburgh, was riding gently up the hill, “ when
he observed an intimate friend of his own on
horseback also, immediately behind him, so he
slackened his pace to give him an opportunity of
joining company. Finding he did not come up so
quickly as he should, he looked round again, and
was astonished at no longer seeing him, since there ... died in 1741, has already been referred to in our first volume . Regarding her family, the following ...

Vol. 5  p. 114 (Rel. 0.59)

254 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
The first volume of the ‘‘ Parochial Records ”
begins in January, 1605, a year before the Act,
and contains the usual memoranda of petty tyranny
peculiar to the times, such as the following, modernised
:-
“ Compeared Margaret Siclair, being cited by
the Session of the Kirk, and being accused of
being at the Bume (for water?) the last Sabbath
before sermon, confessed, her offence, promised
amendment in all time coming, and was convict of
five pounds.” ‘‘ 10th January, 1605 :-The which day the Session
of the Kirk ordained Janet Merling, and Margaret
Cook, her mother, to make their public repentance
next Sabbath forenoon publicly, for concealing
a bairn unbaptised in her house for the space of
twenty weeks, and calling the said bairn Janet.”
“January ~oth, 1605 :-Cornpeared Marion Anderson,
accused of craving curses and malisons on
the pastor and his family, without any offence being
done by him to her ; and the Session, understanding
that she had been banished before for being in a
lodge on the Links in time of the Plague, with one
Thomas Cooper, sclaiter, after ane maist slanderous
manner, the said Marion was ordained to go to the
place of her offence, confess her sin, and crave
mercy of God,” and never to be found within the
bounds of North Leith, “under the pain of putting
her toties puoh’es in the jogis,” Le., jougs.
In 1609 Patrick Richardson had to crave mercy
of God for being found in his boat in time of
afternoon sermon ; and many other instances of the
same kind are quoted by Robertson in his “Antiquities.”
In the same year, Janet Walker, accused
of having strangers (visitors) in her house on Sabbath
in time of sermon, had to confess her offence, and
on her knees crave mercy of God and the Kirk
Session, under penalty of a hundred pounds Scots !
George Wishart, so well known as author of the
elegant ‘‘ Latin Memoirs of Montrose,” a copy of
which was suspended at the neck of that great
cavalier and soldier at his execution in 1650, was
appointed minister of North Leith in 1638, when
the signing of the Covenant, as a protection against
England and the king, became almost necessarily
the established test of faith and allegiance to Scotland.
Deposed for refusing to subscribe it,
Wishart was thrown into a dungeon of the old
Heart of Midlothian, in consequence of the discovery
of his secret correspondence with the king‘s
party. He survived the storm of the Civil Wars,
and was made Bishop of Edinburgh on the reestablishment
of episcopacy.
He died in 1671, in his seventy-first year, and
was buried in Holyrood, where his tomb is still to
be seen, with an inscription so long that it amounts
to a species of biography.
John Knox, minister of North Leith, was, in 1684,
committed to the Bass Rock. While a probationer,
he was in the Scottish army, and chaplain to the
garrison in Tantallon when it was besieged by
Cromwell’s troops. He conveyed the Earl of
Angus and some ladies privately in a boat to
North Berwick, and returned secretly to the Castle,
and was taken prisoner when it capitulated. He
was a confidant of the exiled monarch, and supplied
him with money. A curious mendicant letter to
him from His Majesty is given in the “Scots
Worthies.”
4 The last minister who officiated in the Church
of St. Ninian-now degraded to a granary or store
-was the venerable Dr. Johnston, the joint founder
of the Edinburgh Blind Asylum, who held the incumbency
for more than half a century. The old
edifice had become unsuited to modem requirements
; thus the foundation of a new parish church
for North Leith had been completed elsewhere in
1816, and on the zgthof August in that year he took
a very affecting leave of the old parish church in
which he had officiated so long.
‘‘ He expressed sentiments of warm attachment
to a flock among which Providence had so long
permitted him to minister,” says the Scofs Magazine
(Vol. LXXVII.); “and in alluding, with much
feeling, to his own advanced age, mentioned his
entire sensibility of the approach of that period
when the speaker and the hearer should no longer
dwell together, and hoped they should ultimately
rejoice in ‘ a house not made with hands, eternal
in the heavens.’ ’’
Before ten a.m. on the 1st September a great
crowd collected before the door of the new church,
which was speedily filled. All corporate bodies
having an interest in it, including the magistrates
of the Canongate, were present, and Dr. Johnston,
after reading the 6th chapter of z Chronicles,
delivered a sermon and solemn address, which
affected all who heard it.
The Rev. David Johnston, D.D., died on the
5th of July, 1824, aged ninety-one years.
Four years after, the Cowant had the following
announcement :-“ The public are aware of the
many claims which the late Dr. Johnston of North
Leith had on the grateful remembrance of the
community. Few men have exerted themselves so
assiduously in forwarding the great objects of religion
and philanthropy, and it gives us much pleasure
to learn that a, well-merited tribute to his memory
has just been completed in the erection of a beautiful
bust in the church of North Leith. The follow ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. The first volume of the ‘‘ Parochial Records ” begins in January, 1605, ...

Vol. 6  p. 254 (Rel. 0.59)

Leith.! HARBOUR AND PIER 271
Hence all attempts, therefore, to obtain a good
or workable harbour at Leith have been, of a
necessity, limited to the constfuction of long limes
of piers, to divert the current of the tides, to give
the river mastery over them, and enable it, by the
weight of its downward and concentrated volume,
to sweep away, or at least diminish, the bar, and to
the excavation of docks for the reception of vessels
floated in at high water, and for retaining them safe
from the inexorable power of the receding tide.
From the GentZeman’s Magazine for May, I 786, we
learn that, owing to a long continuance of easterly
wind, the bar at the mouth of Leith harbour had attained
such a height, that vessels could scarcely pass
out or in with any chance of safety ; that many were
aground upon it ; and that the magistrates of Edinburghwere
considering how it could best be removed.
It is related that when, in the spring of the year
1820, Lord Erskine re-visited Edinburgh, after an
absence of nearly half a century, on which occasion
a banquet was given him in the Assembly
Rooms, at which all the then master spirits of the
Scottish bar were present, and Maxwell of Carriden
presided, he returned to London by sea from
Leith. He took his passage in the Favourite,
one of the famous old fighting-smacks, Captain
Mark Sanderson; but it so happened that she
either grounded on the bar, or there was not in the
harbour sufficient water to float her over it; thus
for days no vessel could leave the harbour. Lord
Erskine, with other disappointed passengers, was
seen daily, at the hours of the tide flowing, waiting
with anxiety the floating of the vessel; and
when at last she cleared the harbour, and stood
round the martello tower, he wittily expressed his
satisfaction in the following verse :-
‘( Of depth profound, o’erfiowing far,
I blessed the Edinburgh Bar ;
While muttering oaths between my teeth,
I cursed the shallow Bar of Leith ! ” 1
In the cabin a motion was made, and unanimously
canied, that this impromptu stanza should
be printed on board by Mr. John Ruthven, who
was among the passengers, and whose name is so
well known as the inventor of the celebrated printing
press and other valuable improvements in
machines. With one of his portable printingpresses
he proceeded to gratify his companions,
and struck off several copies of the verse, to which
one of the voyagers added another, thus :-
“ To Lord Erskme-
Nor lower us thus, 8s if at war;
We at our harbour placed a bar.“
“ Spare, spare, my lord, your angry feelings, .
’Tm only to retain you with us
The first pier constructed at Leith was of wood,
)ut was destroyed in 1544, at the time of the
nvasion in that year, and we have no means of
ndicating its precise site. During the earlier years
if the seventeenth century another wooden pier
uas erected, and for two hundred and forty years
ts massive pillars and beams, embedded in a
:ompact mass of whinstone and clay, withstood
;he rough contacts of shipping and the long up
:oming rollers from the stormy Firth, and the last
races of it only disappeared about the year 1850.
Between the years 1720 and ’1730, a stone pier,
n continuatioii of this ancient wooden one, which
inly to a slight extent assisted the somewhat meagre
iatural facilities of the harbour, was carried seaward
for a hundred yards, constructed.pa+y of
nassive squared stones from a curious old coal-pit
it Culross ; and for a time this, to some degree, renedied
the difficulty and hazard of the inward navi-
:ation, but still left the harbour mouth encumbered
with its unlucky bar of unsafe and shifting sand.
The old pier figures in more than one Scottish
;ong, and perhaps the oldest is that fragment preierved
by Cromek, in his “Remains of Nithsdale
ind Galloway Song” :-
“Were ye at the Pier 0’ Leith?
Or cam ye in by Bennochie ?
Crossed ye at the boat 0’ Cra.ig?-
Saw ye the lad wha courted me?
Short hose and belted plaidie,
Garters tied below his knee :
Oh, he was a bonnie lad,
The blythe lad wha courted me”
Contemporaneous, or nearly so, with this early
;tone pier was the formation of the oldest dock,
which will be referred to in its place.
So early as 1454, the improvement and main-
:enance of a harbour at Leith was the care of
lames 11. (that gallant king who was killed at the
iiege of Roxburgh) ; and in his charter granted in
that year, and which was indorsed !‘Provost and BaS
yies, the time that thir letters war gottin, Alexmder
Naper, Andrew Craufurd, William of Caribas,
md Richart Paterson,” he gave the silver customs
md duty of all ships and vessels entering Leith for
:he purpose of enlarging and repairing the port
:hereof (Burgh Charters, No. XXXII.).
In 1620 we first read of several beacons being
Erected, when, as Sir James Balfour records, the
zoal-masters on both sides of the Forth, for the
xydit of the countrey and saftie of strangers trading
Lo them for cole and salte,” in the June of that
year, erected marks and beacons on all the craigs
md sunken rocks within the Eirth, above the Roads
st Leith, at their own expense. ... it, by the weight of its downward and concentrated volume , to sweep away, or at least diminish, the bar, ...

Vol. 6  p. 271 (Rel. 0.59)

78 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ Holyrood.
The Edinburgh HeraZd of April, 1797, mentions
the departure froni Holyrood of the Duc
d’Angoul&me for Hamburg, to join the army of the
Prince of Condd, and remarks, (( We wish His Highness
aprosperous voyage, and we may add (the
valediction of his ancestor, Louis XIV., to the
unfortunate James VII.), may we never see his
face again on the same errand ! ”
The Comte d’Artois visited Sweden in 1804,
but was in Britain again in 1806. His levees and
balls “tended in some degree to excite in the minds
of the inhabitants a faint idea of the days of other
years, when the presence of its monarchs communicated
splendour and animation to this ancient
metropolis, inspiring it with a proud consciousness
of the remote antiquity and hereditary independence
of the Scottish throne.”
His farewell address to the magistrates and
people, dated from the palace 5th August, 1799, is
preserved among the records of the city.
Among those who pressed forward to meet him
was a Newhaven fishwife, who seized his hand as
he was about to enter his carriage, and shook it
heartily, exclaiming, ‘( My name’s Kirsty Ramsay,
sir. I am happy to see you again among decent
folk ! ”
- When the events of the Three Days compelled
Charles X to abdicate the throne of France, he
waived his rights in favour of his nephew, the
young puc de Bordeaux, and quitting his throne,
contemplated at once returning to Holyrood,
where he had experienced some years of comparative
happiness, and still remembered with
gratitude the kindness of the citizens. This he
evinced by his peculiar favour to all Scotsmen,
and his munificence to the sufferers by the great
fire in the Parliament Square. He and his suiteconsisting
of IOO exiles, including the ~ U C de
Bordeaux, Duc de Polignac, Duchesse de Berri,
Baron de Damas, Marquis de Brabancois, and the
Abbe‘ de Moligny-landed at Newhaven on the
20th October, 1830, amid an enthusiastic crowd,
which pressed forward on all sides with outstretched
hands, welcoming him back to Scotland, and
escorted him to Holyrood. Next morning many
gentlemen dined in Johnston’s tavern at the abbey
in honour of the event, sang “Auld lang syne”
under his windows, and gave three ringing cheers
‘( for the King of France? ’
The Duc and Duchesse d‘Angoul&me, after
residing during \se winter at 2 I, Regent Terrace,
joined the king% Holyrood when their apartments
were ready. To the poor of the Canongate
and the city generally, the exiled family were
royally liberal, and also to the poor Irish, and their
whole bearing was unobtrusive, religious, and
exemplary. Charles was always thoughtful and
melancholy. (‘ He walked frequently in Queen.
Mary’s garden, being probably pleased by its
seclusion and proximity to the palace. Here,
book in hand, he used to pass whole hours in retirement,
sometimes engaged in the perusal of the
volume, and anon stopping short, apparently
absorbed in deep reflection. Charles sometimes
indulged in a walk through the city, but the crowds
that usually followed him, anxious to gratify their
curiosity, in some measure detracted from the
pleasure of these perambulations. . . . . . Arthur’s
Seat and the King’s Park afforded many a solitary
walk to the exiled party, and they seemed much
delighted with their residence. It was evident
from the first that Charles, when he sought the
shores of Scotland, intended to make Holyrood his.
home; and it may be imagined how keenly he felt,
when, after a residence of nearly two years, he was
under the necessity of removing to another country.
Full of the recollection of former days, which time
had not effaced from his memory, he said he had
anticipated spending the remainder of his life in the
Scottish capital, and laying his bones among the
dust of our ancient kings in the chapel of Holyrood.”
(Kay, vol. ii.)
In consequence of a remonstrance from Louis
Philippe, a polite but imperative order compelled
the royal family to prepare to quit Holyrood,
and the most repulsive reception given to the Duc
de Blacas in London, was deemed the forerunner
Df harsher measures if Charles hesitated to comply ;
but when it became known that he was to depart,
a profound sensation of regret was manifested in ’
Edinburgh. The 18th September, 1832, was
named as the day of embarkation. Early on that
morning a deputation, consisting of the Lord
Provost Learmonth of Dean, Colonel G. Macdonell,
Menzies of Pitfoddels (the last of an
ancient line), Sir Charles Gordon of Drimnin,
James Browne, LL.D., Advocate, the historian of
the Highlands, and other gentlemen, bearers of arm
address drawn up by, and to be read by the lastnamed,
appeared before the king at Holyrood. One
part of this address contained an allusion to the
little Duc de Bordeaux so touching that the poor
king was overwhelmed With emotion, and clasped
the document to his heart. ‘( I am unable to express
myself,” he exclaimed, ‘( but this I will conserve
among the most precious possessions of my
family.”
After service in the private chapel, many gentlemen
and ladies appeared before Charles, the Duc
d’AngoulCme, and Duc de Bordeaux, when they ... hours in retirement, sometimes engaged in the perusal of the volume , and anon stopping short, ...

Vol. 3  p. 78 (Rel. 0.59)

I
The Second High School.] JAMES PILLANS. 295
Of the Rector and other teachers we have the
following description by Mr. B. Mackay, M.A., in
Steven’s work :-“ I first saw the High School in
1803. I was then a youth of sixteen, and had come
from Caithness, my native county, with a view to
prosecute the study ofmedicine . . . . . The
first master to whom I was introduced was the celebrated
Dr. Adam. He was sitting at his study
table with ten or twelve large old volumes spread
out before him. He received us with great kindness,
invited me to visit his class, and obligingly
offered to solve any difficulties that might present
themselves in the course of my classical reading,
but held out no prospect of private teaching. His
appearance was that of a fresh, strong, healthy
old man, with an exceedingly benevo!ent countenance.
Raeburn’s portrait of him, hung up in the
school, is an admirable likeness, as well as the
print engraved from it. He wore a short threadbare
spencer, or jacket, which gave him rather a
droll appearance, and, as I then thought, indicated
economical habits. I was successively introduced
to all the other masters, and visited their classes.
The first day I entered Dr. Adam’s class he came
forward to meet me, and said, ‘ Come away, sir !
You will see more done here in an hour than in
any other school in Europe.’ I sat down on one
of the cross benches. The Doctor was calling up
pupils from all parts of it ; taking sometimes the
head, sometimes the foot of the forms ; sometimes
he examined the class downwards from head to
ioot, and sometimes from foot to head. . . . .
The next class I visited was that of Mr. Alexander
Christison, afterwards Professor of Humanity. He
was seated quite erect in his desk, his chin resting
on his thumb, and his fore-finger turned up towards
his temple, and occasionally pressed against his
nose. When we entered he.took no notice of us.
He was giving short sentences in English, and
requiring the boys to turn them extmfore into
Latin, and vary them through all the moods and
tenses, which they did with great readiness and
precision. His class was numerous, but presented
the stillness of death. You might have heard a
pin drop. . . . . . The next master to
whom I was introduced was Mr. Luke Fraser,
whom we found standing on the floor examining
his class. He was, I think, the strongest built man
I ever beheld. He was then old, and wore a
scratch wig. The class, like the rest, was numerous
and in fine order. In changing books, however,
the boys made a little noise, which he checked by
a tremendous stamp on the floor that made both
them and me quake, and enveloped his own legs
in a cloud of dust.’’
During all the years of his rectorship Adam
was contributing from time to time to the classical
literature of the country. The least popular of his
many works is the “Classical Biography,” published
in 1800 ; and the last and most laborious of
his useful compilations was his abridged “ h i c o n
Lingue mine Compendiarium,” 8v0, published in
1805. Through life he had been a hard student
and an early riser. On leaving his class at three
pm., his general walk was round by the then
tree-shaded Grange Loan ; but in earlier years his
favourite ramble was up the green slopes of Arthur’s
Seat. Having been seized in school with an
apoplectic attack, he languished for five days, and
as death was approaching, fancying himself during
the wanderings of his mind, as the light faded
from his eyes, still among his pupils, he said, “But
it grows dud-boys, you may go ! ’’ and instantly
expired, in the 68th year of liis age, on the 18th
December, 1809.
His remains were laid in the gloomy little ground
attached to St. Cuthbert’s chapel of ease, where a
monument was erected to his memory with a Latin
inscription thereon, written by Dr. James Gregory
of the Edinburgh University. He was among the
last who adhered to the old-fashioned dress,
breeches and silk stockings, with knee and shoebuckles
and the queue, though he had relinquished
the use of hair-powder.
A successor was found to him in the person of
Mr. James Pillans, M.A. (the “paltry Pillans” of
Byron’s “ English Bards and Scotch Reviewers ”),
who was elected rector on the 24th of January, 1810.
As one of the Doctor‘s early pu~ils, and ranking next
to Francis Homer, who had borne off the highest
honours, he entered upon his duties with enthusiasm,
and the ardour with which he was received in the hall
of the High School on his a, karance there, augured
well for the future. In 1811 he published a selection
from the school exercises of his best pupils, a
volume, which, excepting imperfections, was most
honourable to the boyish authors, the oldest of
whom had not reached his fifteenth year. A
favourable critique of this unique work-which was
in Latin metre-appeared in the Quarter& Review
from the pen of the then poet laureate, Southey.
To the cultivation of Greek literature great
attention was now paid, and the appearance made
by the pupils at their periodical examinations was
so brilliant, that on the motion of Sir John
Marjoribanks, Bart., the Ldrd Provost, the Town
Council unanimously resolved on the 27th July,
1814, “that there be annually presented by the
City of Edinburgh to the boy at the head of the
Greek class, taught by the Rector of the High ... sitting at his study table with ten or twelve large old volume s spread out before him. He received us with great ...

Vol. 4  p. 295 (Rel. 0.59)

Restalrig.] LHL LA31 UP THE LOGANS. I35 -_7n T I”-
,
sible eyrie, Fast Castle, there to await the orders
of Elizabeth or the other conspirators as to the disposal
of his person.
Logan’s connection with this astounding treason
remained unknown till nine years after his death,
when the correspondence between him and the
Earl of Gowrie was discovered in possession of
Sprott, a notary at Eyemouth, who had stolen
them from a man named John Bain, to whom
they had been entrusted. Sprott was executed,
and Logan’s bones were brought into court to
havea sentence passed upon them, when it was
ordained “that the memorie’and dignitie of the
said umqle Robert Logan be extiiict and abolisheit,”
his arms riven and deleted from all books
of arms and all his goods escheated.
The poor remains of the daring old conspirator,
were then retaken to the church of St. Mary at
Leith and re-interred j and during the alterations
in that edifice, in 1847, a coffin covered with the
richest purple velvet was found in a place where
no interment had taken place for years, and the
bones in it were supposed by antiquaries to be
those of the turbulent Logan, the last laird of
Restalrig.
His lands, in part, with the patronage of South
Leith, were afterwards bestowed upon James
Elphinstone, Lord Balmerino ; but the name still
lingered in Restalrig, as in 1613 we find that
John Logan a portioner there, was fined LI,OOO
for hearing mass at the Netherbow with James of
Jerusalem.
Logan was forfeited in 1609, but his lands had
been lost to him before his death, as Nether Gogar
was purchased from him in I 596, by Andrew Logan
of Coatfield, Restalrig in 1604 by Balmerino, who
was interred, in 1612, in thevaulted mausoleum beside
the church ; “and the English army,’ says
Scotstarvit, “ on their coming to Scotland, in 1650,
expecting to have found treasures in that place,
hearing that lead coffins were there, raised up his
body and threw it on the streets, because they
could get no advantage or money, when they expected
so much.”
In 1633 Charles I. passed through, or near,
Restalrig, on his way to the Lang Gate, prior to
entering the city by the West Port.
William Nisbet of Dirleton was entailed in the
lands of Restalrig in 1725, and after the attainder
and execution of her husband, Arthur Lord Balmerino,
in I 746, his widow-Elizzbeth, daughter
of a Captain Chalmers-constantly resided in the
village, and there she died on the 5th January, 1767.
Other persons of good position dwelt in the
village in those days; among them we may note
’
Sir James Campbell of Aberuehill, many years a
Commissioner of the Customs, who died there 13th
May, 1754, and was buried in the churchyard ; and
in 1764, Lady Katharine Gordon, eldest daughter
of the Earl of Aboyne, whose demise there is
recorded in the first volume of the Edinburgh
Adverhjer.
Lord Alemoor, whose town house was in Niddry’s
Wynd, was resident at Hawkhill, where he died in
1776 ; and five years before that period the village
was the scene of great festal rejoicings, when
Patrick Macdowal of Freugh, fifth Earl of Dumfries,
was married to Miss Peggy Crawford, daughter of
Ronald Crawford, Esq., of Restalng.”
From Peter Williamson’s Directory it appears
that Restalrig was the residence, in 1784, of Alexander
Lockhart, the famous Lord Covington. In
the same year a man named James Tytler, who had
ascended in a balloon from the adjacent Comely
Gardens, had a narrow escape in this quarter. He
was a poor man, who supported himself and his
family by the use of his pen, and he conceived the
idea of going up in a balloon on the Montgolfier
principle ; but finding that he could not carry a firestove
with him, in his desperation and disappointment
he sprang into his car with no other sustaining
power than a common crate used for packing
earthenware; thus his balloon came suddenly
down in the road near Restalrig. For a wonder
Tytler was uninjured; and though he did not
reach a greater altitude than three hundred feet,
nor traverse a greater distance than half a mile, yet
his name must ever be mentioned as that of the
first Briton who ascended with a balloon, and who
was the first man who so ascended in Britain.”
It is impossible to forget that the pretty village,
latterly famous chiefly as a place for tea-gardens
and strawbemy-parties, was, in the middle of the
last century, the scene of some of the privations
of the college life of the fine old Rector Adam of
the High School, author of “Roman Antiquities,”
and other classical works. In 1758 he lodged
there in the house of a Mr. Watson, and afterwards
with a gardener. The latter, says Adam, in some
of his MS. memoranda (quoted by Dr. Steven),
was a Seceder, a very industrious man, who had
family worship punctually morning and evening,
in which I cordially joined, and alternately said
prayers. After breakfast I went to town to attend
my classes and my private pupils. For dinner I
had three small coarse loaves called baps, which I
got for a penny-farthing. As I was now always
dressed in my best clothes, I was ashamed to buy
these from a baker in the street. I therefore went
down to a baker‘s in the middle of a close. I put ... of Aboyne, whose demise there is recorded in the first volume of the Edinburgh Adverhjer. Lord Alemoor, whose ...

Vol. 5  p. 135 (Rel. 0.59)

Albany Street.] GENERAL SCOTT. 19=
Gray was ordained his successor to that charge in
1773, but he resigned it ten years afterwards. In
1785 he was appointed joint Professor of Mathematics
in the University of Edinburgh with the
celebrated Adam Ferguson, LL.D., and discharged
the duties of that chair till the death of
his friend Professor Robinson, in 1805, when he
was appointed his successor. Among his works
are “ Elements of Geometry ” published in I 796 ;
“Illustrations of the Huttonian Theory of the
Earth ” in 1804; ‘‘ Outlines of Natural Philosophy;”
besides many papers to the scientific department
of the Edinburgh &view and to various other
periodicals.
He died at No. 2, Albany Street, in his seventieth
year, on the 20th of July, 1819. An unfinished
‘‘ Memoir of John Clerk of Eldin,” the inventor of
naval tactics, left by him in manuscript, was
published after his death in the ninth volume of
the “ Edinburgh Transactions.” An interesting account
of the character and merits of this illustrious
mathematician, from the pen of Lord Jeffrey,
was inserted in the ‘‘ Encyclopzdia Britannica ”
and in the memoir prefixed to his works by his
nephew, and a noble monument to his memory
is erected on the Calton Hill.
Northwards of the old village of Broughton,
in the beginning of the present century, the land
was partly covered with trees ; a road led fkom it
to Canonmills by Bellevue to Newhaven, while
another road, by the water of Leith, led westward.
In the centre of what are now the Drummond
Place Gardens stood a country house belonging
to the Lord Provost Drummond, and long inhabited
by him ; he feued seven acres from the
Governors of Heriot’s Hospital. The approach to
this house was by an avenue, now covered by West
London Street, and which entered from the north
road to Canonmills.
On the site of that house General Scott of Balcolnie
subsequently built the large square threestoreyed
mansion of Bellevue, afterwards converted
into the Excise Office, and removed when the
Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee Railway Company
constructed the now disused tunnel from Princes
Street to the foot of Scotland Street.
In 1802 the l a d s of Bellevue were advertised
to be sold “by roup within the Justiciary
Court Roomy for feuing purposes, but years
elapsed before anything was done in the way of
building. In 1823 the papers announce that
‘‘ preparations are making for levelling Bellevue
Gardens and filling up the sand-pits in that
neighbourhood, with a view to finishing Bellevue
Crescent, which will connect the New Town with
Canonmills on one side, as it is already connected
with Stockbridge on the other.”
By that year Drummond Place was nearly completed,
and the south half of Bellevue Crescent
was finished and occupied; St. Mary’s parish church
was founded and finished in 1824 from designs b j
Mr. Thomas Brown, at the cost of A13,ooo for
1,800 hearers. It has a spire of considerable elegance,
168 feet in height.
General Scott, the proprietor of Bellevue, was
one of the most noted gamblers of his time. It
is related of him that being one night at Stapleton’s,
when a messenger brought him tidings that Mrs.
Scott had been delivered of a daughter, he turned
laughingly to the company, and said, “You see,
gentlemen, I must be under the necessity of
doubling my stakes, in order to make a fortune for
this little girl.“ He accordingly played rather
deeper than usual, in consequence of which, after
a fiw hours’ play, he found himself a loser by
A8,ooo. This gave occasion for some of the
company to rally him on his ‘‘ daughter‘s fortune,”
but the general had an equanimity of temper
that nothing could ruffle, and a judgment in play
superior to most gamesters. He replied that he
had still a perfect dependence on the luck of the
night, and to make his words good he played steadily
on, and about seven in the morning, besides
clearing his .&8,000, he brought home A15,ooo.
His eldest daughter, Henrietta, became Duchess
of Portland.
Drummond Place was named after the eminent
George Drummond, son of the Laird of Newton, a
branch of the Perth family, who was no less than
six times Lord Provost of the city, and who died
in 1776, in the eightieth year of his age.
The two most remarkable denizens of this
quarter were Charles Kirkpatrick Sharpe of Hoddam
(previously of 93, Princes Street) and Lord
Robertson.
Among the attractions of Edinburgh during the
bygone half of the present century, and accessible
only to a privileged few, were the residence
and society of the former gentleman. Born of an
ancient Scottish family, and connected in many
ways with the historical associations of his country,
by his reputation as a literary man no less than
by his high Cavalier and Jacobite tenets, Charles
Kirkpatrick Sharpe was long looked up to as one
of the chief authorities on all questions connected
with Scottish antiquities.
No. 93, Princes Street, the house of Mrs. Sharpe
of Hoddam, was the home of her son till the time
of her death, and there he was visited by Scotc
Thomas Thomson, and those of the next genera ... in manuscript, was published after his death in the ninth volume of the “ Edinburgh Transactions.” An ...

Vol. 3  p. 191 (Rel. 0.59)

124 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. : [Convivialia
In 1783, “ a chapter of the order” was adver
tised “to be held at their chamber in Anetruther
Dinner at half-past two.”
The LAWNMARKET CLUB, with its so-callec
“gazettes,” has been referred to in our first volume
The CAPILLAIRE CLUB was one famous in thq
annals of Edinburgh convivalia and for it
fashionable gatherings. The Wee24 Xagaziz
for I 7 74 records that ‘‘ last Friday night,‘the gentle
men of the Capillaire Club gave their annual ball
The company consisted of nearly two hundrec
ladies and gentlemen of the first distinction. Thei
dresses were extremely rich and elegant. He
Grace the Duchess of D- and Mrs. Gen
S- made a most brilliant appearance. Mrs
S.’s jewels alone, it is said, were above ;C;30,00c
in value. ‘The ball was opened about seven, anc
ended about twelve o’clock, when a most elegan
entertainment was served up.”
The ladies whose initials are given were evidentlj
the last Duchess of Douglas and Mrs. Scott, wift
of General John Scott of Balcomie and Bellevue
mother of the Duchess of Portland. She survivec
him, and died at Bellevue House, latterly the Ex
cise Office, Drummond Place, on the 23rd August
1797, after which the house was occupied by the
Duke of Argyle.
The next notice we have of the club in the same
year is a donation of twenty guineas by the mem
bers to the Charity Workhouse. ‘‘ The Capillaire
Club,” says a writer in the “Scottish Journal o
Antiquities,” “was composed of all who were in.
clined to be witty and joyous.“
There was a JACOBITE CLUB, presided over a1
one time by tine Earl of Buchan, but of which
nothing now survives but the name.
The INDUSTRIOUS COMPANY was a club composed
oddly enough of porter-drinkers, very. numerous,
and formed as a species of joint-stock company,
for the double purpose of retailing their liquor for
profit, and for fun and amusement while drinking it,
They met at their rooms, or cellars rather, every
night, in the Royal Bank Close. There each member
paid at his entry As, and took his monthly
turn of superintending the general business of the
club; but negligence on the part of some of the
managers led to its dissolution.
In the Advertiser for 1783 it is announced as
a standing order of the WIG CLUB, “that the
members in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh
should attend the meetings of the club, or if they
find that inconvenient, to send in their resignation;
it is requested that the members will be
pleased to attend to this regulation, otherwise their
places will be supplied by others who wish to be of
the club.-Fortune’s Tavern, February 4th, 1783.’’
In the preceding January a meeting of the club is
summoned at that date, “ as St. P-’s day.:’ Mr.
Hay of Drumelzier in the chair. As‘ there is no
saint for the 4th February whose initial is P, this
must have been some joke known only to the club.
Charles, Earl of Haddington, presided on the 2nd
December, 1783.
From the former notice we may gather that there
was a decay of this curious club, the president of
which wore a wig of extraordinary materials, which
had belonged to the Moray faniily,for three generations,
and each new entrant’s powers were tested,
by compelling him to drink “ to the fraternity in a
quart of claret, without pulling bit-i.e., pausing.”
The members generally drank twopenny ale, on
which it was possible to get intoxicated for the
value of a groat, and ate a coarse kind of loaf,
called Soutar’s clod, which, with penny pies of high
reputation in those days, were furnished by a shop
near Forrester‘s Wynd, and known as the Ba@n
HoZe.
There was an BSCULAPIAN CLUB, a relic of
which survives in the Greyfriars Churchyard, where
a stone records that in 1785 the members repaired
the tomb of ‘(John Barnett, student of phisick (sic)
who was born 15th March, 1733, and departed this
life 1st April, 1755.”
The BOAR CLUB was chiefly composed, eventually,
of wild waggish spirits and fashionable young men,
who held their meetings in Daniel Hogg‘s tavern,
in Shakespeare Square, close by the Theatre RoyaL
“ The joke of this club,” to quote “ Chambers’s
Traditio? s,” “ consisted in the supposition that all
the members were boars, that their room was a dy,
that their talk was grunting, and in the dozcbZeentendre
of the small piece of stoneware which served
as a repository for the fines, being a &. Upon
this they lived twenty years. I have at some expense
of eyesight and with no small exertion of
patience,” continues Chambers, ‘‘ perused the soiled
and blotted records of the club, which, in 1824,
were preserved by an old vintner whose house was
their last place of meeting, and the result has been
the following memorabilia. The Boar Club commenced
its meetings in 1787, and the original
members were J. G. C. Schetky, a German
nusician ; David Shaw, Archibald Crawford,
Patrick Robertson, Robert Aldrige, a famous pantonimist
and dancing-master ; Jarnes Nelson, and
Luke Cross. . , , Their laws were first written
iown in due form in 1790. They were to meet
:very evening at seven o’clock ; each boar on his
:ntry contributed a halfpenny to the pig. A fine
if a halfpenny was imposed upon any person who ... has been referred to in our first volume The CAPILLAIRE CLUB was one famous in thq annals ...

Vol. 5  p. 124 (Rel. 0.59)

I 68 OLD. AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Andrew Square.
Natural Phenomena,” and many other scientific
and geographical works that have won the firm
more than European reputation, including the
“ Royal Atlas of General Geography,” dedicated tc
her Majesty, the only atlas for which a prize medal
was awarded at the International Exhibition oi
London, 1862. Alexander Keith Johnston, LL.D.,
F.R.S., died on the 9th of July, 1877; but the
firm still exists, though removed to more extensive
premises elsewhere.
No less than twenty-three Societies and Associa.
tions of various kinds have chambers in No. 5,
including the Obstetrical, Botanical, Arboricultural,
and Geological Societies, together with the Scottish
branch of the Army Scripture Readers and Soldiers
Friend Society, the mere description of which would
require a volume to themselves.
In the entire square there are above twenty
insurance societies or their branches, and several
banks, and now it is one of the greatest business
centres in the city.
No. 6 was till 1879 the Scottish Provident In.
stitution, established in I 838, and incorporated
ten years subsequently. It is a mutual assurance
society, in which consequently the whole profits
belong to the assured, the policy-holders at the
same time, by the terms of’ the policies and by the
deed of constitution, being specially exempt from
personal liability.
No. 9 was in 1784 the house of Sir Michael
Bruce, Bart., of Stenhouse, in Stirlingshire. He
married a daughter of General Sir Andrew Agnew
of Lochnaw, heritable sheriff of Galloway, and
died in 1795. The whole site is now covered by
the Scottish Widows’ Fund ofice.
No 12, once the residence of Campbell of Shawfield,
is now the office of the London Accident
Company; and No. 14, ‘which no longer exists,
was in 1810 the office of the Adjutant-General for
Scotland.
In No. 19 (now offices) according to one authority,
in No. 21 (now also offices) according to Daniel
Wilson, was born on the 19th of September, 1779,
Henry, Lord Brougham and Vaux, the future Lord
Chancellor of Great Britain, son of Henry Brougham
.of Scalis Hall, Cumberland, and Brougham Hall,
Westmoreland, by Eleanor, daughter of the Rev.
James Syrne, and maternal niece of Robertson the
Scottish historian.
A. and C Black’s ‘‘ Guide ” assigns the third floor
of No. ZI as the place where Brougham was born.
The birth and existence of this illustrious statesman
depended upon a mere chance circumstance, which
has in it much that is remarkable. His father was
about to be married to a young lady resident near
~ ~ ~
his family seat, to whoni he was passionately attached,
and every preparation had been made for
their nuptials, when the lady died. To beguile his
sorrow young Brougham came to Edinburgh, where,
when idling on the Castie Hill, he chanced to
inquire of a person where he could find a suitable
lodging. By this person he was not directed to
any fashionable hotel, for at that time scarcely such
a thing was known in Edinburgh, but to Mrs.
Syme, sister of Principal Robertson, widow of the
Rev. Mr. Syrne, yhilom minister of Alloa, who
then kept one of the largest boarding-houses in the
city, in the second flat of MacLellan’s Land, at the
Cowgate Head, the windows of which looked up
Candlemaker Row.
There he found quarters, and though it does not
appear that he intended to reside permanently in
Edinburgh, he soon found occasion to change that
resolution by falling in love with Miss Syme, and
forgetting his recent sorrow. He married her, and
after living for a little space with Mrs. Syme, removed
to st. Andrew Square.*
The future Lord Brougham received the first
seeds of his education at the High School, under
Mr. Luke Fraser, and afterwards under Dr. Adam,
author of the “Roman Antiquities;” and from
there he passed to the University, to become the
pupil of Dugald Stewart, Black, Robertson, and
other well-known professors, prior to his admission
to the Scottish bar in 1800.
No. 22, now the office of the Scottish National
Fire and Life Assurance Company, was for years
the residence of Dr. James Hamilton, who died in
1835, and whose figure was long remarkable in the
streets from his adherence to the three-cornered hat,
the collarless coat, ruffles, and knee-breeches, of a
past age, with hair queued and powdered; foryears
too he was in every way one of the ornaments of
the metropolis.
His grandfather, the Rev. William Hamilton (a
branch of the house of PreSton) was Principal of
the University in 1730, and his father, Dr. Robert
Hamilton, was a distinguished Professor of theology
in I 754.. At an early age the Doctor was appointed
one of the physicians to the infirmary, to Heriot’s,
the Merchant-maiden and Trades-maiden Hospitals,
and he was author of one or two of the most
elegant professional works that have been issued
by the press. The extreme kindliness of his disposition
won him the love of all, particularly of
the poor, With the costume he retained much of
the gentle courtesy and manly hardihood of the
In one of his earlier publications, Robert Chambm states that
Brougham was born at No. 8 Cowgate, and that his father afterwards
moved to No. 7 George Street. ... Society, the mere description of which would require a volume to themselves. In the entire square there are ...

Vol. 3  p. 167 (Rel. 0.59)

38 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ hlorningside.
reported to the Privy Council that he and the
Napiers of Edinbellie, having quarrelled about the
tiend sheaves of Merchiston, “ intended to convoa
t e their kin, and sic as will do for them in arms:
but to prevent a breach of the peace, William
Napier of the Wrychtishousis, as a neutral person,
was ordered by the Council to collect the sheaves
in question.
In 1614 he produced his book of logarithms,
dedicated to Pripce Charles-a discovery which
made his name famous all over Europe-and on
the 3rd of April, 1617, he died in the ancient tower
of Merchiston. His eldest son, Sir Archibald,
was made a baronet of Nova Scotia by Charles I.,
and in 1627 he was raised to the peerage as
Lord Napier. His lady it was who contrived to
have abstracted the heart of Montrose from the
mutilated body of the great cavalier, as it lay
buried in the place appointed for the interment
of criminals, in an adjacent spot of the Burghmuir
(the Tyburn of Edinburgh). Enclosed in a casket
of steel, it was retained by the family, and underwent
adventures so strange and remarkable that a
volume would be required to describe them.
Merchiston has been for years occupied as a
large private school, but it still remains in possession
of Lords Napier and Ettrick as the cradle of
their old and honourable house.
In 1880, during the formation of a new street on
the ground north of Merchiston, a coffin fornied of
rough stone slabs was discovered, within a few feet
of the surface. It contained the remains of a fullgrown
human being.
Eastward of the castle, and within the park where
for ages the old dovecot stood, is now built Christ’s
Church, belohging to the Scottish Episcopalians. It
was built in 1876-7, at a cost of about cf10,500, and
opened in 1878. It is a beautifully detailed cruciforni
edifice, designed by Mr. Hippolyte J. Blanc,in
the early French-Gothic style, with a very elegant
spire, 140 feet high. From the west gable to the
chancel the nave measures eighty-two feet long and
forty broad ; each transept measures twenty feet by
thirty wide. The height of the church from the
floor to the eaves is twenty feet; to the ridge of
the roof fifty-three feet. The construction of the
latter is of open timber work, with moulded arched
ribs resting on ‘‘ hammer beams,” which, in their
turn, are supported upon red freestone shafts, with
white freestone capitals and bases, boldly and beautifully
moulded.
The chancel presents the novel feature of a
circumambient aisle, and was built at the sole
expense of Miss Falconer of Falcon Hall, at a cost
of upwards of L3,ooo.
Opposite, within the lands of Greenhill, stands
the Morningside Athenmm, which was originally
erected, in 1863, as a United Presbyterian
church, the congregation of which afterwards
removed to a new church in the Chamberlain
Road.
North of the old villa of Grange Bank, and on
the west side of the Burghmuir-head road, stands
the Free Church, which was rebuilt in 1874, and
is in the Early Pointed style, with a fine steeple,
140 feet high. The Established Church of the
quoad sacra parish, disjoined from St. Cuthbert’s
since 1835, stands at the south-west corner of the
Grange Loan (then called in the ‘maps, Church
Lane), and was built about 1836, from designs by
the late John Henderson, and is a neat little
edifice, with a plain pointed spire.
The old site of the famous Bore Stone was
midway between this spot and the street now called
Church Hill. In a house-No. r-here, the great
and good Dr. Chalmers breathed his last.
CHAPTER IV.
DISTRICT OF THE BURGHMUIR (cuncZudPd).
Morningside and Tipperlin-Provost Coulter’s Funeral-Asylum for the Insane-Sultana of the Crimea-Old Thorn Tree-The Braids of that
Ilk-The Fairleys of Braid-Thr Plew Lands-Craiglockhart Hall and House-The Kincaids and other Proprietors--John Hill Burton The
Old Tower-Meggathd and Redhall-White House Loan-The bwhite House-St. Margaret’s Convent-Bruntsfield House-The War.
renders4reenhill and the Fairholmes-Memorials of the Chapel of St. Roqw-St. Giles’s Grange-The Dicks and Lauders-Grange
Cemetery-Memorial Churches.
SOUTHWARD of the quarter we. have been describing,
stretches, nearly to the foot of the hills of
Braid and Blackford, Morningside, once a secluded
village, consisting of little more than a row of
thatched cottages, a line of trees, and a blacksmith’s
forge, from which it gradually grevt- to become
an agreeable environ and summer resort of
I the citizens, with the fame of being the “Montpellier
’’ of the east of Scotland, alluring invalids to
its precincts for the benefit of its mild salubrious . air& around what was the old village, now man ... underwent adventures so strange and remarkable that a volume would be required to describe them. Merchiston ...

Vol. 5  p. 38 (Rel. 0.59)

206 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Ainslie Place.
To the philosopher we have already referred in
our account of Lothian Hut, in the Horse Wynd.
In 1792 he published the first volume of the
“Philosophy of the Human Mind,” and in the
following year he read before the Royal Society of
Edinburgh his account of the life and writings of
Adam Smith.; and his other works are too wellknown
to need enumeration here. On the death
of his wife, in 1787, he married Helen D’Arcy
Cranstoun, daughter of the Hon. George Cranstoun,
who, it is said, was his equal in intellect, if
superior in blood. She was the sister of the
Countess Purgstall (the subject of Basil Hall’s
“ Schloss Hainfeldt ”) and of Lord Corehouse, the
tiiend of Sir Walter Scott.
Though the least beautiful of a family iq which
beauty is hereditary, she had (according to the
Quarter& Review, No. 133) the best essence of
beauty, expression, a bright eye beaming with intelligence,
a manner the most distinguished, yet
soft, feminine, and singularly winning. On her illfavoured
Professor she doted with a love-match
devotion; to his studies and night lucubrations
she sacrificed her health and rest; she was his
amanuensis and corrector at a time when he was
singularly fortunate in his pupils, who never forgot
the charm of her presence, the instruction they
won, and the society they enjoyed, in the house of
Dugald Stewart Among these were the Lords
Dudley, Lansdowne, Palmerston, Kinnaird, and
Ashburton. In all his after-life he maintained a
good fellowship with them, and, in 1806, obtained
the sinecure office of Gazefie writer for Scotland,
with A600 per annum.
Her talent, wit, and beautymade the wife of the
Professor one of the most attractive women in the
city. ‘( No wonder, therefore,” says the Quarfero,
“that her saloons were the resort of all that was
the best of Edinburgh, the house to which strangers
most eagerly sought introduction. In her Lord
Dudley found indeed a friend, she was to him in
the place of a mother. His respect for her was
unbounded, and continued to the close; often
have we seen him, when she was stricken in years,
seated near her for whole evenings, clasping her
hand in both of his. Into her faithful ear he
poured his hopes and his fears, and unbosomed his
inner soul ; and with her he maintained a constant
correspondence to the last.”
Her marriage with the Professor came about in a
singular manner. When Miss Cranstoun, she had
written a poem, which was accidentally shown by
her cousin, the Earl of Lothian, to Dugald Stewart,
then his private tutor, and unknown to fame ; and
‘he was so enraptured with it, and so warm in his
commendations, that the authoress and her critic
fell in love by a species of second-sight, before their
first interview, and in due time were made one.
Dugald Stewart died at his house in Ainslie
Place, on Wednesday, the 11th June, 1828, after a
short but painful illness, when in the seventy-fifth
year of his age, having been born in the old College
of Edinburgh in 1753, when his father was professor
of mathematics. His long life had been
devoted to literature and science. He had acquired
a vast amount of information, profound as it was
exact, and possessed the faculty of memory in a
singular degree. As a public teacher he was
fluent, animated, and impressive, with great dignity
and grace in his manner.
He was buried in the Canongate churchyard.
The funeral procession proceeded as a private one
from Ainslie Place at, three in the afternoon ; but
on reaching the head of the North Bridge it was
joined by the Senatus Academicus in their gowns
(preceded by the mace bearer) two and two, the
junior members in front, the Rev. Principal Baird
in the rear, together with the Lord Provost, magistrates
and council, with their officers and regalia.
He left a widow and two children, a son and
daughter, the former of whom, Lieutenant-Colonel
Matthew Stewart, published an able pamphlet on
Indian affairs. His widow, who holds a high
place among writers of Scottish song, survived him
ten years, dying in July, 1838.
The Very Rev. Edward Bannerman Ramsay,
LL.D. and F.R.S.E., a genial writer on several
subjects, but chiefly known for his “ Reminiscences
of Scottish Life and Character,” was long the occupant
of No. 23. He was the fourth son of Sir
Alexander Ramsay, Bart., of Balmaine, in Kincardineshire,
and was a graduate of St. John’s College,
Cambridge. His degree of LL.D. was given him
by the University of Edinburgh, on the installation
of Mr. Gladstone as Lord Rector in 1859. He
held English orders, and for seven years had been
a curate in Somersetshire. His last and most
successful contribution to literature was derived
from his long knowledge of Scottish character. He
was for many years Dean of the Episcopal Church
in Scotland, and as a Churchman he always advocated
moderate opinions, both in ritual and doctrine.
He died on the 27th December, 1872, in
the seventy-ninth year of hi5 age.
In the summer of 1879 amemorial to his memory
was erected at the west end of Princes Street,
eastward of St. John’s Church, wherein he so long
officiated. It is a cross of Shap granite, twenty-six
feet in height, having a width of eight feet six
inches from end to end of the arms. At the height
. ... Hut, in the Horse Wynd. In 1792 he published the first volume of the “Philosophy of the Human Mind,” and in ...

Vol. 4  p. 206 (Rel. 0.58)

G d Stuart St~et.1 PROFESSOR AYTOUN. 207
of sixteen feet there spring curves which bend
round into the arms, while between those arms and
the upright shaft are carried four arcs, having a
diameter of six feet.
On each of its main faces the cross is divided
into panels, in which are inserted bronze basreliefs,
worked out, like the whole design, from
drawings by R. Anderson, A.R.S.A. Those occupying
the head and arms of the cross represent the
various stages of our Lord‘s Passion, the Resurrection
and the Ascension; in another series of six,
placed thus on either side of the shaft, are set forth
the acts of charity, while the large panels in the
base are filled in with sculptured ornament of the
fine twelfth-century type, taken from Jedburgh
abbey.
Three senators of the College of Justice have
had their abodes in Ainslie Place-Lord Barcaple,
raised to the bench in 1862, Lord Cowan, a judge
of 1851, and George Cranstoun, Lord Corehouse,
the brother of Mrs. Dugald Stewart, who resided
in No. 12. This admirable judge was the son of
the Hon. George Cranstoun of Longwarton, and
Miss Brisbane of that ilk. He was originally intended
for the army, but passed as advocate in
1793, and was Dean of Faculty in 1823, and
succeeded to the bench on the death of Lord
Hermand, three years after. He was the author
of the famous Court of Session jeu rFespn2, known
as “The Diamond Beetle Case,” an amusing and
not overdrawn caricature of the judicial style, manners,
and language, of the judges of a bygone
time.
He took his judicial title from the old ruined
castle of Corehouse, near the Clyde, where he had
built a mansion in the English style. He was an
excellent Greek scholar, and as such was a great
favourite with old Lord Monboddo, who used to
declare that Cranstoun was the only scholar in
all Scotland,” the scholars in his opinion being all
on the south side of the Tweed.
He w& long famed for being the beau-ideal of
a judge; placid and calm, he listened to even
the longest debates with patience, and was an
able lawyer, especially in feudal questions, and
his opinions were always received with the most
profound respect.
Great Stuart Street leads from Ainslie Place
into Randolph Crescent,which faces the Queensfeny
Road, and has in it3 gardens some of the fine old
trees which in former times adorned the Earl of
Moray’s park.
In No. 16 of the former street lived and died,
after his removal from No. I, Inverleith Terrace, the
genial and. patriotic author of the Lays of t h e
.
Scottish Cavaliers,” a Scottish humourist of a very
high class. William Edmondstoune Aytoun, Professor
of Rhetoric in the University of Edinburgh,
was born in 1813, of a fine old Fifeshire family,
and in the course of his education at one of the
seminaries of his native capital, he became dis
tinguished among his contemporaries for his powers
of Latin and English composition, and won a prize
for a poem on ‘( Judith.” In his eighteenth year
he published a volume entitled Poland and other
Poems,” which attracted little attention ; but after
he was called to the bar, in 1840, he became one
of the standing wits of the Law Courts, yet, save
as a counsel in criminal cases, he did not acquire
forensic celebrity as an advocate.
Five years afterwards he was presented to the
chair of Rhetoric and Belles Lettres in the University,
and became a leading contributor to
Blackwoofls Magazine, in which his famous LL Lays,”
that have run through so many editions, first
appeared. Besides these, he was the author of
many brilliant pieces in the Book of Ballads,” by
Bon Gaultier, a name under which he and Sir
Theodore Martin, then a solicitor in Edinburgh,
contributed to various periodicals.
In April, 1849, he married Jane Emily Wilson,
the youngest daughter of Christopher North,” in
whose class he had been as a student in his early
years, a delicate and pretty little woman, who predeceased
him. In the summer of 1853 he delivered
a series of lectures on “Poetry and Dramatic
Literature,” in Willis’s Rooms, to such large and
fashionable audiences as London alone can produce
; and to his pen is ascribed the mock-heroic
tragedy of Firrnilian,” designed to ridicule, as it
did, the rising poets of ‘‘ The Spasmodic School.”
With all his brilliance as a humourist, Aytoun was
unsuccessful as a novelist, and his epic poem
“Bothaell,” written in 16 Great Stuart Street, did
not bring him any accession of fame.
In his latter years, few writers on the Conservative
side rendered more effective service to their
party than Professor Aytoun, whom, in 1852, Lord
Derby rewarded With the offices of Sheriff and
Vice-Admiral of Orkney.
Among the many interesting people who frequented
the house of the author of “The Lays”
few were more striking than an old lady of
strong Jacobite sentiments, even in this prosaic
age, Miss Clementina Stirling Graham, of Duntrune,
well worthy of notice here, remarkable for her
historical connections as for her great age, as she
died in her ninety-fifth year, at Duntrune, in 1877.
Born in the Seagate of Dundee, in 1782, she was
the daughter of Stirling of Pittendreich, Forfar ... on ‘( Judith.” In his eighteenth year he published a volume entitled Poland and other Poems,” which ...

Vol. 4  p. 207 (Rel. 0.58)

Cmigmillar.] CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE. Si
Robert XI., “of the lands of Craigmillar, in Vic
du Edinburgh, whilk William de Capella resigned,
sustennand an archer in the king‘s army.” (Robertson’s
“ Index”)
Under the same monarch, some time after,
another charter was granted, confirming “John de
Capella, keeper of the king’s chapel, in the lands of
Erolly (sic), whilk Simon de Prestoun resigned ; he,
John, performing the same service in the king’s
chapel that his predecessors used to perform for
the third part of Craigmillar.”
The date 1474 above the principal gate probably
refers to some repairs. Four years afterwards,
William, a successor of Sir Simon Preston,
was a member of the parliament which met at
Edinburgh June I, 1478. He had the title .of
Domine de Craigmillar, the residence of his race
for nearly three hundred years.
In 1479 this castle became connected with a
dark and mysterious State tragedy. The Duke
of Albany was accused of conspiring treasonably
with the English against the life of his brother,
James III., but made his escape from Edinburgh
Castle, as related in Volume I. Their younger
brother John, Earl of Mar, was placed a prisoner
in Craigmillar on the same charges. James 111.
did not possess, it was alleged, the true characteristics
of a king in those days. He loved music,
architecture, poetry, and study. “He was ane
man that loved solitude,” says Pitscottie, “and
desired never to hear of warre ”-a desire that the
Scottish noblemen never’ cared to patronise.
Mar, a handsome and gay fellow, “ knew nothing
but nobility.” He was a keen hunter, a sportsman,
and breeder of horses for warlike purposes.
Whether Mar was guilty or not of the treasons which
were alleged against him will never be known, but
certain it is that he never left his captivity alive.
Old annalists say that he chose his own mode 01
death, and had his veins opened in a warm bath
but Drummond, in his “ History of the Jameses,’
says he was seized by fever and delirium in Craig
millar, and was’ removed to the Canongate, wherc
he died in the hands of the king‘s physician, eithei
from a too profuse use of phlebotomy, or from his
having, in a fit of frenzy, torn off the bandages.
In 1517 Balfour records that the young king
James V. was removed from Edinburgh to Craig
millar, and the queen-mother was not permitted tc
see him, in consequence of the pestilence ther
raging. But he resided here frequently. In 1544
it is stated in the “ Diurnal of Occurents ” that thc
fortress was too hastily surrendered to the Englisl
invaders, who sacked and burned it.
By far the most interesting associations of Craig
nillar, like so many other castles in the south of
kotland, are those in which Queen Mary behrs a
)art, as she made it a favourite country retreat.
Within its walls was drawn up by Sir James
Balfour, with unique legal solemnity, the bond of
Dardey’s murder, and there signed by so many
iobles of the first rank, who pledged themselves
o stand by Bothwell with life and limb, in weal or
woe, after its perpetration, which bond of blood the
wily lawyer afterwards destroyed.
Some months after the murder of Rizzio, and
while the grasping and avaricious statesmen of the
!ay were watching the estrangement of Nary and
ier husband, on the 2nd December, 1560, Le
3oc, the French Ambassador, wrote thus to the
4rchbishop of Glasgow :-“ The Queen is for the
xesent at Craigmillar, about a league distant from
.his city. She is in the hands of the physicians,
and I do assure you is not at all well, and do
Jelieve the principal part of her disease to consist
n deep grief and sorrow. Nor does it seem possible
to make her forget the same. Still she repeats
ihese words--‘lcould wish to be dead!”’
Craigmillar narrowly escaped being stained with
the blood of the dissolute Darnley. It would zppear
that when he returned from Glasgow, early in
1567, instead of lodging him in the fatal Kirk-0’-
Field, the first idea of the conspirators was to bring ,
him hither, when it was suggested that his recovery
from his odious disease might be aided by the
sanitary use of a bath--“ an ominous proposal to a
prince, who might remember what tradition stated
to have happened ninety years earlier within the
same walls.”
The vicinity abounds with traditions of the
hapless Mary. Her bed closet is still pointed out ;
and on the east side of the road, at Little France,
a hamlet below the castle walls, wherein some of
her French retinue was quartered, a gigantic
plane-the largest in the Lothians-is to this day
called “ Queen Mary’s Tree,’’ from the unauthenticated
tradition that her own hands planted it, and
as such it has been visited by generations. In
recent storms it was likely to suffer ; and Mr. Gilmour
of Craigmillar, in September, 1881, after consulting
the best authorities, had a portion of the
upper branches sawn off to preserve the rest
In ‘‘ the Douglas wars,” subsequent to the time
when Mary was a captive and exile, Craigmillar
bore its part, especially as a prison ; and terrible
times these were, when towns, villages, and castles
were stormed and pillaged, as if the opposite
factions were inspired by the demon of destruction
-when torture and death were added to military
execution, and the hapless prisoners were hurried ... made his escape from Edinburgh Castle, as related in Volume I. Their younger brother John, Earl of Mar, was ...

Vol. 5  p. 59 (Rel. 0.58)

Currie.] DR. JAMES ANDERSON. . 335
were appointed to look after the king’s exchequer,
“properties, and casualties,” were named. (“Moyses’
Memoirs.”)
In April, 1598, he witnessed at Stirling the
contract between James VL, Ludovick Stewart,
Duke of Lennox, and Hugh, fifth Earl of Eglinton,
for the marriage of the latter and Gabriella,
sister of the duke.
He is best known in Scottish legal literature by
his treatise ‘‘ De Verborum Significatione,” and the
edition of the ‘‘ Regiam Majestatem,” but Lord
Hailes doubted if his knowledge of Scottish antiquities
was equal to his industry.
In 1607, with reference to the latter work, Sir
James Balfour records in his Annales” that ‘‘ The
ancient Lawes of Scotland, collected by s” John
Skeene, Clerke of Register, on the Lordes of the
Privey Counsall’s recommendation to the King,
by their letters of the 4th of Marche this yeire
wer ordained to be published and printed, on his
Majestie’s charges.”
This work, which was printed in folio at Edinburgh
in 1609, is entitled “ REGIAM MAJESTATEM
SCOTIR;. The auld lawes and constitutions of Scotland,
faithfullie collected furth of the Register, and
other auld authentick Bukes, from the dayes of King
hlalcolme the Second vntill the time of King Jame
the First.” It contains the Quoniam Attachianzentq
or Baron Laws, the Burgh Laws, the Forest Law:
of William the Lion, and many other quaint anc
curious statutes.
His son, Sir James Skene of Curriehill, succeedec
Thomas, Earl of Mehose, as President of thc
Court of Session in 1626. At what time he w;1!
made a baronet of Nova Scotia is unknown, bui
his death as such is thus recorded by Balfour :-
“The 20 of October (1663) deyed s” Jame:
Skeine of Curriehill, Knight and Barronet, Presi
dent of the Colledge of Justice, at his auen houssc
in Edinburghe, and was interred in the Greyfriar:
ther.” Re was buried within the church, when
his tomb was found a few years ago; and tht
house in which he died is that described as bein;
“beside the Grammar School,” within the south
east angle of the Flodden wall, and in after years
the official residence of the Professor of Divinity.
Sir Archibald Johnston (Lord Warriston) wa:
a considerable heritor in the parish of Currie
Maitland (Lord Ravelrig) we have already referrec
to, and also to Sir Thomas Craig of Riccarton
“The Scotts of hlalleny, father and son, were like
wise eminent lawyers at the same period, and tht
latter had a seat on the bench,” says the “Olc
Statistical Account” ; but if so, his name does no1
appear in the list of senators at that time.
(“ Eglinton Memorials.”)
.
The late General Thomas Scott of Malleny, who
lied at the age of ninety-six, served on the contilent
of Europe, and in the American War under
.he Marquis of Cornwallis.
He entered the army when a boy, and was a
:aptain in the 53rd Foot in October, 1777. It is
-ecorded of him that he carried some very impor-
:ant despatches in the barrel of his spontoon with
ucess and dexterity, passing through the American
hes in the disguise of aa armed pedler. These
services were recognised by Lord Melbourne, who
gave him a pension without solkitation.
He belonged latterly to the Scots Brigade ; was
t major-general of 1808, and a lieutenant-general
af 1813.
In 1882 his ancient patrimony of Malleny was
purchased by the Earl of Rosebery.
James Anderson, LLD., a miscellaneous writer
of considerable eminence, the son of a farmer, was
born at Hermiston, near Currie, in 1739, “His
ancestors had been farmers,” says the Sots Magazine
for 1809, “and had for several generations
farmed the same land, which circumstance is supposed
to have introduced him to that branch of
knowledge which formed the chief occupation of
his life.”
Among the companions of his youth, born in
the same hamlet, was Dr. James Anderson, who in
the early years of the present century was Physician-
General of the Forces in Madras. They were
related, educated together, and maintained a correspondence
throughout life.
Losing his father at the age of fifteen, he entered
upon the management of his ancestral farm, and
at the same time attended the chemistry class of
Dr. Cullen in the University of Edinburgh, studying
also several collateral branches of science. He
adopted a number of improvements, one of which,
the introduction of a small two-horse plough, was
afterwards so common in Scotland.
Amid his ’ agricultural labours, so great was his
thirst for knowledge, and so steady his application,
that he contrived to acquire a considerable stock
of information; and in 1771, under the nouz de
phme of “ Agricola,” he contributed to Ruddiman’s
Edinburgh Week4 Xagazine a series of “ Essays
on Planting,” which were afterwards published in
a volume. In 1773 he furnished the article
Monsoon” to the first edition of the EmycZopdia
Britannica,. in which, curiously enough, he
confidently predicted the failure of’captain Cook‘s
first expedition in search of a southern polar continent.
Previous to ,1777 he had removed from Hermistop
to a large uncultivated farm, consisting of ... Planting,” which were afterwards published in a volume . In 1773 he furnished the article Monsoon” to ...

Vol. 6  p. 335 (Rel. 0.57)

Convivialia.1 ASSEMBLY
presiding officials, male and female, with the names
they adopted, such as Elisha the Prophet, King of
Hell, Old Pluto, the Old Dragon, Lady Envy, and
so forth. “ The Hell-fire Club,” says Chambers in
his “ Domestic Annals,” ‘‘ seems to have projected
itself strongly on the popular imagination in Scotland,
for the peasantry still occasionally speak of it
with bated breath and whispering horror. Many
wicked lairds are talked of who belonged to the
Hell-fire Club, and who came to bad ends, as
might have been expected on grounds involving
no reference to miracle.”
The ASSEMBLY OF BIRDS is the next periodical
gathering, but for ostensibly social purposes, and
to it we find a reference in the Caledonian Mermry
of October, 1733. This journal records
that yesternight there came on at the “Parrot’s
Nest” in this city the annual election of oficebearers
in the ancient and venerable Assem60 of
Birds, when the Game Cock was elected preses;
the Buck Bird, treasurer; the GZedc, principal
clerk ; the Crow, his depute; the Duck, officer ; all
birds duly qualified to our happy establishment,
and no less enemies to the excise scheme. After
which an elegant entertainment was served up, all
the royal and loyal healths were plentifully drunk
in the richest wines, ‘The GZorious 20s’ ; ‘AZZ
Bonny Birds,’ &c. On this joyful occasion nothing
was heard but harmonious music, each bird striving
to excel in chanting and warbling their respective
melodious notes.”
We may imagine the medley of sounds in which
these humorous fellows indulged ; the glorious
205,” towhom reference was made, were those members
of the House of Commons who had recently
opposed a fresh imposition upon the tobacco tax.
Somewhere about the year 1750 a society called
the SWEATING CLUB made its appearance. The
members resembled the Mohocks and Bullies of
London. After intoxicating themselves in taverns
and cellars in certain obscure closes, they would
sally at midnight into the wynds and large thoroughfares,
and attack whomsoever they met, snatching off
wigs and tearing up roqaelaures. Many a luckless
citizen who fell into their hands was chased, jostled,
and pinched, till he not only perspired with exertion
and agony, but was ready to drop down and
die of sheer exhaustion.
In those days, when most men went armed,
always with a sword and a few with pocket-pistols,
such work often proved perilous ; but we are told
that “even so late as the early years of this century
it was unsafe to walk the streets of Edinburgh at
night, on account of the numerous drunken parties
of young men who reeled about, bent on mischief
OF BIRDS. 123
at all hours, and from whom the Town Guard were
unable to protect the sober citizens.”
In Vol. I. of this work (p. 63) will be found a
facsimile of the medal of the Edinburgh REVOLUTION
CLUB, struck in 1753, “in commemoration
of the recovery of religion and liberty by William
and Mary in 1688.” It bears the motto, Meminis
seJmabif.
‘‘ On Thursday next,” announces the Advcrtiser
for November, 1764, the 15th current, the
RmoZution CZu6 is to meet in the Assembly Hall at
six o’clock in the evening, in commemoration of
our happy deliverance from Popery and slavery by
King William of glorious and immortal memory ;
and of the further security of our religion and
liberties by the settlement of the crown upon the
illustrious house of Hanover, when it is expected
all the members of that society, in or near the city,
will give attendance.” The next issue records the
meeting but gives no account thereof. Under its
auspices a meeting was held to erect a monument
to King William 111. in 1788, attended by the
Earls of Glencairn, Buchan, Dumfries, and others j
but a suggestion in the Edinburgh magazines of
that year, that it should be erected in the valley of
Glencoe with the King‘s warrant for the massacre
carved on the pedestal, caused it to be abandoned,
and so this club was eventually relegated to “ the
lumber-room of time,” like the UNION and four
others, thus ranked briefly by the industrious
Chambers :-
No gentleman to appear in . I clean linen. THEDIRTYCLUB . .
THE BLACK WIGS . . . Members wore black wigs.
THE ODD FELLOWS . .
THE BONNET LAIRDS . . Members wore bonnets.
Members wrote their namea ’{ upside down.
Members regarded as Physicians,
and so styled, wearing
gowns and wigs.
THE DOCTORS OF FACULTY
CLUB . . . . . . .
In Volume 11. of the “ Mirror Club Papers ” we
find six others enumerated:-5”’ Whin Bush,
Knz$ts of the Cap andFeather (meeting in the close
of that name), The Tdemade, The Stoic, Th
Hum-drum, and the Antemanurn.
In 1765 the institution of another club is thus
noticed in the. Advertiser of January 29th :-
“ We are informed that there was a very numerous
meeting of the Knights Companions of the
Ancient Order of the BEGGARS’ BENISON, with
their sovereign on Friday last, at Mr. Walker’s
tavern, when the band of music belonging to the
Edinburgh Regiment (25th Foot) attended. Everything
was conducted with the greatest harmony and
cheerfulness, and all the knights appeared with the
medal of the order.” ... and wigs. THE DOCTORS OF FACULTY CLUB . . . . . . . In Volume 11. of the “ Mirror Club Papers ” we find ...

Vol. 5  p. 123 (Rel. 0.57)

I74 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Charlotte Square.
Bank, near Edinburgh; Arnsheen, in Ayrshire ;
Redcastle, Inverness-shire ; Denbrae, Fifeshire; and
Gogar Bank in Midlothian. He died on the 27th
of May, 1836, Lady Fettes having pre-deceased him
on the 7th of the same month.
By his trust disposition and settlement, dated
5th July 1830, and several codicils thereto, the last
being dated the 9th of March, 1836, he disponed his
whole estates to and in favour of Lady Fettes, his
sister Mrs. Bruce, Mr. Corrie, Manager of the
British Linen Company, A. Wood, Esq. (afterwards
Lord Wood), and A. Rutherford, Esq. (afterwards
Lord Rutherford), as trustees ; the purposes of the
trust, which made ample provision for Lady Fettes
in case of her survival, being :-(I) The payment of
legacies to various poor relations ; ( 2 ) Bequests to
charitable institutions ; and (3) The application of
the residue to ‘‘ form an endowment for the maintenance,
education, and outfit of young people
whose parents have either died without leaving
syfficient funds for that purpose, or who from innocent
misfortune during their own lives are unable
to give suitable education to their children.”
The trust funds, which at the time of the
amiable Sir William’s death amounted to about
&166,000, were accumulated for a number of years,
and reached such an amount as enabled the
trustees to carry out his benevolent intentions in a
becoming manner ; and, accordingly, in 1864 contracts
were entered into for the erection of the superb
college which now very properly bears his name.
Lord Cockburn, that type of the true old Scottish
gentleman, ‘‘ whose dignified yet homely manner
and solemn beautygave his aspect a peculiar grace,”
and who is so well known for his pleasant and gossiping
volume of ‘‘ Memorials,” and for the deep interest
he took in all pertaining to Edinburgh, occupied
No. 14 ; and the next house was the residence
of Lord Pitmilly. James Wolfe Murray, afterwards
Lord Cringletie, held No. 17 in 1811; and the
Right Hon. David Boyle, Lord Justice Clerk, and
afterwards Lord Justice General, occupied the same
house in 1830.
Lieutenant-General Alexander Dirom, of Mount
Annan, and formerly of the 44th regiment, when
Quartermaster-General in Scotland, rented No. I 8
in I 8 I I. He was an officer of great experience, and
had seen much service in the old wars of India, and,
when major, published an interesting narrative of
the campiign against Tippoo Sultan. Latterly his
house was occupied by the late James Crawfurd,
Lord Ardmillan, who was called to the bar in 1829,
and was raised to the bench in Jacuary, 1855.
At the same time No. 31 was the abode of the
Right Hon. Wlliam Adam, &ord Chief Commissioner
of the Jury Court, the kinsman of the
architect of the Square, and a man of great
eminence in his time. He was the son of Adam
Blair of Blair Adam, and was born in July, 1751.
Educated at Edinburgh, he became a member of
the bar, but did not practise then ; and in 1774 and
1794 he sat for several places in Parliament. In
the latter year he began to devote himself to his
profession, and in 1802 was appointed Counsel for
the East India Company, and four years afterwards
Chancellor for the Duchy of Cornwall. After being
M.P. for Kinross, in 18 I I he resumed his professional
duties, and was deemed so sound a lawyer that he
was frequently consulted by the Prince of .Wales
and the Duke of York.
In the course of a parliamentary dispute with
Mr. Fox, about the first American war, they fought
a duel, which happily ended without bloodshed,
after which the latter remarked jocularly that had
his antagonist not loaded his pistols with Government
powder he would have been shot. In 1814
he submitted to Government a plan for trying civil
causes by jury in Scotland, and in the following
year was made a Privy Councillor and Baron of the
Scottish Exchequer. In I 8 I 6 an Act of Parliament
was obtained instituting a separate Jury Court in
Scotland, and he was appointed Lord Chief Commissioner,
with two of the judges as colleagues,
and to this court he applied all his energies, overcoming
by his patience, zeal, and urbanity, the many
obstacles opposed to the success of such an institution.
In 1830, when sufficiently organised, the
Jury Court was, by another Act, transferred to the
Court of Session, and when taking his seat on the
bench of the latter for the first time, complimentary
addresses were presented to him from the Faculty
of Advocates, the Society of Writers to the Signet,
and that of the solicitors before the Supreme
Courts, thanking him for the important benefits .
which the introduction of trial by jury in civil cases
had conferred on Scotland. In 1833 he +red
from the bench, and died at his house in Charlotte
Square, on the 17thFebruary, 1839, in his 87th year.
’ In 1777 he had married Eleanora, daughter of
Charles tenth Lord Elphinstone. She died in
1808, but had a family of several sons-viz., John,
long at the head of the Council in India, who died
some years before his father; Admiral Sir Charles,
M.P., one of the Lords of the Admiralty ; William
George, an eminent King’s Counsel, afterwards
Accountant-General in the Court of Chancery;
and Lieutenant-General Sir Frederick, who held a
command at the battle of Waterloo, and was afterwards
successively Lord High Commissioner to the
Ionian Isles and Governor of Madras. ... who is so well known for his pleasant and gossiping volume of ‘‘ Memorials,” and for the deep ...

Vol. 3  p. 174 (Rel. 0.57)

castle Street.] NUMBER THIRTY-NINE CASTLE STREET. 163
lived for a time James Grant of Corrimony,
advocate, who had his town house in Mylne’s
Court, Lawnmarket, in 1783. This gentleman, the
representative of an old Inverness-shire family,
was born in 1743, in the house of Commony in
Urquhart, his mother being Jean Ogilvie, of the
family of Findlater. His father, Alexander Grant,
was induced by Lord Lovat to join Prince Charles,
and taking part in the battle of Culloden, was
wouiided in the thigh. The cave at Corrimony in
which he hid after the battle, is still pointed out to
tourists. His son was called to the bar in 1767,
and at the time of his death, in 1835, he was the
oldest member of the Faculty of Advocates. Being
early distinguished for his liberal principles, he
numbered among his friends the Hon. Henry
Erskine, Sir James Macintosh, Francis Jeffrey, and
many others eminent for position or attainments;
In 1785 he published his ‘‘ Essays on the Origin of
Society,” Src j in 1813, “Thoughts on the Origin
and Descent of the Gael,” &c: works which, illustrated
as they are by researches into ancient Greek,
Latin, and Celtic literature, show him to have been
a man of erudition, and are valuable contributions
to the early history of the Celtic races.
The next thoroughfare is Castle Street, so called
from its proximity to the fortress. As the houses
spread westward they gradually improved in external
finish and internal decoration. By the French
Revolutionary war, according to the author of
“Old Houses in Edinburgh,” writing in 1824, an
immense accession of inhabitants of a better class
were thrown into.the growing city, All the earlier
buildings of the new town were rubble-work, nnd
so simple were the ideas of the people at that
time, “ that main doors (now so important) were
not at all thought of, and many of the houses in
Princes Street had only common stairs entering
from the Mews Lane behind. But within the last
twenty years a very different taste has arisen, and
the dignity of a front door has become almost
indispensable. The later buildings are, with few
exceptions, of the finest ashlar-work, erected on a
scale of magnificence said to be unequalled ; yet,
it cannot be denied that here and there common
stairs-a nuisance that seems to cling to the very
nature of Edinburgh-have crept in. However,
even that objection has in most cases been got
over by an ingenious contrivance, which renders
them accessible only to the occupants of the various
flats,” it., the crank communicating from eabh,
with the general entrance-door below-a feature
altogether peculiar to Edinburgh and puzzling to
all strangers.
No. I Castle Street, now an hotel, was in 1811
he house of the first Lord Meadowbank, already
.ererred to, who died in 1816. At the same time
:he adjoining front door was occupied by the Hon.
Miss Napier (daughter of Francis; seventh Lord
Napier), who died unmarried in 18zc~. No. 16
,vas the house of Skene of Rubislaw, the bosom
iiend of Sir Walter Scott, and the last survivor of
$e six particdar friends to whom he dedicated
:he respective cantos of “ Marmion.” He possessed
the Bible used by Charles I. on the scaffold, and
which is described by Mr. Roach Smith in his
“ Collectanea Antiqua.” Latterly Mr. Skene took
up his residence at Oxford. pis house is now
legal offices.
About 1810 Lady Pringle of Stitchel occupied
No. 20, at the corner of Rose Street. She was the
daughter of Norman Macleod of Macleod, and
widow of Sir James Pringle, Bar!., a lieutenantcolonel
in the army, who died in 1809. At the
opposite corner lived Mrs. Fraser of Strichen; and
No. 27, now all sub-divided, was the residence of
Robert Reed, architect to the king. No. 37, in
1830, was the house of Sir Duncan Cameron, Bart.,
of Fassifem, brother of the gallant Colonel Cameron
who fell at Quatre Bras, and won a baronetcy for
his family. And now we come to the most important
house in New Edinburgh, No. 39, on the east side
of the northern half of the street, in which
Sir Walter Scott resided for twenty-six years prior
to 1826, and in which the most brilliant of his
works were written and he spent his happiest years,
“from the prime of life to its decline.” He considered
himself, and was considered by those about
him, as amassing a large fortune ; the annual profits
of his novels alone had not been less than A;IO,OOO
for several years. His den, or study, there is thus
described by Lockhart :-“ It had a single Venetian
window, opening on a patch of turf not much
Larger than itself, and the aspect of the place was
sombrous. . . . A dozen volumes or so, needful
for immediate purposes of reference, were placed
close by him on a small movable form. All the
rest were in their proper niches, and wherever a
volume had been lent its room was occupied by a
wooden block of the same size, having a card with
the name of the borrower and date of the lending
tacked on its front . . . The only table wasa
massive piece of furniture which he had constructed
on the model of one at Rokeby, with a desk and all
its appurtenances on either side, that an arnanuensis
might work opposite to him when he chose, with
small tiers of drawers reaching all round to the
floor. The top displayed a goodly array of session
papers, and on the desk below were, besides the
MS. at which he was working, proof-sheets and so ... and the aspect of the place was sombrous. . . . A dozen volume s or so, needful for immediate purposes of ...

Vol. 3  p. 163 (Rel. 0.57)

250 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate.
CHAPTER XXXII.
C0WGATE 
The South Side of the Street--The High School Wynd-“ Claudero”-Robertson’s Close-House of the Bishops of Dnnkeld-Tomb of Gavin
Douglas-Kuk-of-Field and College Wynd-House of the Earls of Queensberq-Robcrt Monteith-Oliver Goldsmith-Dr. Joseph Black
-House in which Sir Walter Swtt was born-St. Petu‘s Pad-House of Andro Symmi, the Printer, 1@7-The Horse Wynd-
Galloway House-Guthrie Stract-Tailors’ Hall-French Ambassador’s Chapel and John Dickison’s House-Tam 0’ the Cowgate and Jam-
VI.-The Hammermen’s Land and Hall-Magdalenc Chapel-John Craig-A Glance at the Ancient Corporations-The Hammumen-
Their Charter--Seal and Pmgress-The Cardin-First Strike in the Trade-Skinners and Furriers-Websters-Hat and Bonnetm
a L e r s - F l e s h e r s - C w ~ o p e r s T a i l o r s C o n d k - m n L .
PROCEEDING westward from the point we have
left, the mutilated range of buildings on the south
side, between George Heriot’s School (the site of
the old Cowgate Port) and the foot of what was
the High School Wynd, show fragments of what
were, in their day, exceedingly picturesque old
timber-fronted tenements, of a very early date, but
which were far inferior in magnificence to the Mint
which stood opposite to them This Wynd was
originally a narrow and rather lonely road or path,
that led towards the Dominican monastery, and
westward to the house of the Kirk-of-Field. A
finely-carved lintel, which surmounted the doorway
of an antique range of tenements, is described
by Wilson, as having been replaced over the
entrance of a modem building erected on the same
site in 1801. The inscription, he shows, cut in
very unusual character, having in the centre a
shield charged with a barrel, the device of its more
recent occupant, a brewer, substituted for the
armorial bearings of his predecessors :-
AL. MY. TRIST . I - S. IN. YE. LORD.
‘‘ We have found,” he adds, U on examining ancient
charters and title-deeds refemng to property in the
Cowgate, much greater difficulty in assigning the
exact tenements referred to, from the absence of
such marked and easily recognisable features as
serve for a guide in the High Street and Canongate.
All such evidence, however, tends to prove that
the chief occupants of this ancient thoroughfare
were eminent for rank and station, and their dwellings
appear to have been chiefly in the front street,
showing that, with patrician exclusiveness, traders
were forbid to open their booths within its dignified
precincts.”
Latterly the High School Wynd was chiefly remarkable
for the residence, in an old tenement at
its foot, of an obscure local poet, whose real name
was Tames Wilson, but whose num de plume was
Claudero,” and who by his poetic effusions upon
local subjects continued to eke out a precarious
subsistence, frequently by furnishing sharp lampoons
on his less gifted fellow-citizens. He latterly added
to his income by keeping a little school, and by
performing (‘ AaCf-merk marriages, an occupation
which, no doubt, afforded him additional satisfaction,
as he was thereby taking their legitimate
duties out of the hands of his old enemies the
clergy,” for Claudero, who was a cripple, is said to
have been rendered so, in youth, by a merciless
beating he received from “ the pastoral staff ” of
the minister of his native parish, Cumbernauld, in
Dumbartonshire. A satirist by profession, Claudero
made himself a source of terror by his pungent
wit, for in the Edinburgh of the eighteenth century
there lived a number of wealthy old men who had
realised large fortunes in questionable manners
abroad, and whose characters, as they laboured
under strange suspicions of the slave trade-even
buccaneering perhaps-“ were wonderfully suscep
tible of Claudero’s satire ; and these, the wag,” we
are told, “ used to bleed profusely and frequently,
by working upon their fears of public notice.”
In 1766 appeared his “Miscellanies in Prose
and Verse, by Claudero, son of Nimrod the mighty
Hunter,” dedicated to the renowned Peter Williamson,
“from the other world.” In this volume are
“The Echo of the Royal Porch of Holyrood,”
demolished in 1753 ; “The last Speech and Dying
Words of the Cross,I) executed, &c., “for the
horrid crime of being an encumbrance to the
street ;” “ Scotland’s Tears over the Horrid Treatment
of her Kings’ Sepulchres ; ” “ A Sermon on
the Condemnation of the Netherbow ; ” and other
kindred subjects. With all his eccentricity, Claudero
seems to have felt genuine disgust at the wanton
destruction of many beautiful and historical
edifices and monuments in Edinburgh, under the
reckless fiat of a magistracy of the most tasteless
age in British history-the epoch of George
111. In the year 1755 he was wandering about
London, but returned to Edinburgh, where he
lived for thirty years consecutively, and died in
The wynd led straight up the slope to the old
High School, which with its tower and spire stood
on the east side of it Robertson’s Close adjoined
it on the west-in 1647, a long and straight street,
with lofty houses on both sides, and spacious
1789- ... Peter Williamson, “from the other world.” In this volume are “The Echo of the Royal Porch of ...

Vol. 4  p. 250 (Rel. 0.57)

378 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Duddingston.
were the Duke of Buccleuch, the Earl of Errol, the
Earl of Dalhousie, the Earl of Roden, Lord Elcho,
Couqt Piper, Sir John Stuart, Sir William Forbes,
Admiral Purves, Sir James Hall, the Countesses of
Errol and Dalhousie, Lady Charlotte Campbell
(the famous beauty), Lady Elizabeth Rawdon,
M y Helen Hall, Lady Stuart, Lady Fettes, Admiral
Vashon (who conquered the Jygate pirates), and
a great number of naval and military gentlemen,
most of the judges, &c. The saloon was brilliantly
fitted up with festoons of flowers, and embellished
with a naval pillar, on which were the names ol
Howe, Duncan,‘.% Yincent, and NeZsun. The
dancing commenced at ten dclock, and was continued
till two in the morning.”
In this year the earl also had a residence in
Queen Street (where Lady Charlotte Campbell also
resided in Argyle House), but whether it was there
or at Duddingston that his daughter, the celebrated
Lady Flora Hastings, was born, there are now nc
means of ascertaining, as no other record of he1
birth seems to remain but its simple announcemeni
in the Scots Magazine: “At Edinburgh, 11th
March,. 1806, the Countess of Loudon and Moira
of a daughter.” The story of this amiable and
unfortunate lady, her poetical talent, and the inhumanity
with which she was treated at Court, are toc
well known to need more than mention here, On
his appointment as Govemor-General‘ of India,
in 1813, the earl, to the regret of all Scotland,
bade farewell to it, and, as the song has it, tc
‘( Loudon’s bonnie woods and braes,” whither he
did not return till the summer of 1823 ; he was then
seventy-one years of age, but still erect and soldierly
in form, “The marchioness is forty-six,” says the
editor of the Free Press on this occasion, :’and seem:
to have suffered little from the scorching climate.
She has all the lady in her appearance-modest,
dignified, kind, and affectionate. Lady Flora is a
young lady of most amiable disposition, miid and
attractive manners.” The earl died and was buried
at Malta ; but Lady Flora lies beside her mother in
the family vault at Loudon, where she was laid in
1839, in her thirty-third year. An edition of he1
poems, seventy in number, many of them full 01
touching pathos and sweetness, was published in
1842 by her sister, who says in her preface thal
the profits of the volume would be dedicated ‘‘ tc
the service of God in the parish where her mother’s
family have so long resided . . . . to aid in
the erection of a school in the parish of Loudon, a
an evidence of her gratitude to Almighty God
and her good will to her fellow creatures.”
Prior to the purchase of Sandringham, the estate
of Duddingston, it is said, would have been pur.
chased by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, but for
some legal difficulties that were in the way.
At the south-east end of Duddingston Loan,
where the road turns off tqwards the Willow Brae
and Parson’s Green,. stands, at the point of the
eastern slope of Arthur’s Seat, Cauvin’s Hospital,
the founder of which, Louis Cauvin (Chauvin or
Calvin),was a teacher of French in Edinburgh, whose
parents were Louis Cauvin and Margaret Edgar.
“ It is not correctly ascertained,” says Kay’s editor,
‘‘ on what account the father was induced to leave
his native country and settle in the metropolis
of Scotland. According to some accounts, he was
forced to expatriate himself, in consequence of
the fatal issue of a duel in which he had been
implicated. According to others, he was brought
over to Edinburgh as a witness in the ‘Douglas
Cause,’ having seived in the capacity of a fcotman
in the family of Lady Jane Douglas for a
considerable time during her residence in Paris.
A portrait of him in his youth, in military garb, is
still preserved.”
After teaching for a time, he became tenant of a
small farm near the hamlet of Jock‘s Lodge, where
he died in 1778, and was buried in Restalrig.
His son Louis, after being educated at the High
School and the Universities of Edinburgh and of
Paris, became a teacher of French in the former
city, where he retired from work in 1818 with a
handsome fortune, realised by his own exertions.
Imitating his father, for twenty years before relinquishing
his scholastic labours he rented a large
farm in Duddingston, now named the Woodlands,
and during his occupation of it he built, on the
opposite side of the Loan, then, as now, wooded
and bordered by hedges, the house of Louisfield,
which forms the central portion of his hospital. He
died in 1824, and was laid beside his father in
Restalrig.
By a codicil to his will, dated Duddingston
Farm, 28th April, 1823, he thus arranges for his
sepu1ture:-“My corpse isto bedeposited in Restalrig
churchyard, and watched for a proper time.
The door of the tomb must be taken off, and the
space built up strongly with ashlar stones. The tomb
must be shut forever,and never to be opened There
is a piece of marble on the tomb door, which I put
up in memory of my father ; all I wish is that there
may be put below it an inscription mentioning the
time of my death. I beg and expect that my
trustees will order all that is written above to be
put in execution.”
The hospital he founded resembles a large and
elegant villa, and was opened in 1833, for the
maintenance of twenty boys, sons of teachers and ... her sister, who says in her preface thal the profits of the volume would be dedicated ‘‘ tc the service of ...

Vol. 4  p. 318 (Rel. 0.57)

Drummond Place 1 LORD ROBERTSON. I93
antiquarian taste consorted with the musical skill
ancl critical sagacity of the editor of the ‘ Minuets
and Songs, by Thomas, sixth Earl of Kellie.”’
At his death, in 1851, a desire was felt by many
of his friends that his collection of antiquities
should, like that of his friend Scott, be preserved
as a memorial of him, but from circumstances
over which his family had no control this was
found to be impossible, so the vast assemblage of
rare and curious objects which crowded every room
in No. 28 was dispersed. The very catalogue of
them, filling upwards of fifty pages, was in some of
its features strongly indicative of the character of
the man.
Among them we find--“ A smd box made from
a leg of the table at which King James VIII. sat
on his first landing here;” “fragment of Queen
Mary’s bed-curtains;” ‘‘ hair of that true saint
and martyr Charles I., taken from his coffin at
Windsor, and given to me by the Hon. Peter
Drummond Burrel at Edinburgh, December,
1813;” “piece of the shroud of King Robert the
Bruce i1 piece of a plaid worn by-Prince Charles
in Scotland;” “silk sash worn by the prince;”
“pair of gloves belonging to Mary Queen of
Scots;” “cap worn by her when escaping from
Lochleven;” &c. He had a vast collection of
coins, some of which were said to be discovered
in consequence of a dream. I‘ The child of a Mr.
Christison, in whose house his father was lodging
in 1781, dreamt that a treasure was hid in the
cellar. Her father had no faith in the dream, but
Mr. Sharpe had the place dug up, and a copper
pot full of coins was found.”
One of the chief features of his drawing-room in
Drummond Place was a .quaint monstrosity in
bronze, now preserved in the British Museum. It
was a ewer fashioned in the shape of a tailless lion,
surmounted by an indescribable animal, half hound
and half fish, found in a vault of his paternal castle
of Hoddam, in Dumfries-shire. Charles Kirk patrick
Sharpe was laid amid his forefathers in the family
burial-place in Annandale. “May the earth lie
light on him,” writes one of his friends, “and no
plebeian dust invade the last resting-place of a
thorough gentleman of the antique type, now
wholly gone with other good things of the olden
time !”
Patrick Robertson, known as Lord Robertson
by his judicial title, was long locally famous as
‘ I Peter,” one of the most brilliant wits and humorists
about Parliament House, and a great friend of
“Christopher North.” They were called to the
bar in the same year, 1815. Robertsonwas born
in 1793. In 18qz he was Dean of Faculty, and
73
,vas raised to the bench in the following year. He
was famous for his mock heroic speeches on the
:eneral question,” and his face, full of grotesque
humour, and his rotund figure, of Johnson-like
mplitude and cut, were long familiar to all
habitues of the law courts. Of his speeches
Lockhart gives a description in his account of a
Burns dinner in 1818 :-“ The last of these presidents
(Mr. Patrick Robertson), a young counsellor
3f very rising reputation and most pleasant manner,
made his approach to the chair amid such a
thunder of acclamation as seems to issue from the
cheeks of the Bacchantes when Silenus gets astride
his ass, in the famous picture of Rubens. Once in
the chair, there was no fear of his quitting it while
any remained to pay homage to his authority. He
made speeches, one chief merit of which consisted
(unlike epic poems) in their having neither beginning,
middle, nor end. He sang songs in which
music was not. He proposed toasts in which
meaning was not. But over everything that he
said there was flung such a radiance of sheer
mother wit, that there was no difficulty in seeing
that the want of meaning was no involuntary want.
By the perpetual dazzle of his wit, by the cordial
flow of his good-humour, but, above all, by the
cheering influence of his broad, happy face, seen
through its halo of purest steam (for even the chair
had by this time got enough of the juice of the
grape), he contrived to diffuse over us all, for a
long time, one genial atmosphere of unmingled
mirth.”
The wit and humour of Robertson were proverbial,
and hundreds of anecdotes used to be current
of his peculiar and invincible powet of closing
all controversy, by the broadest form of reductio ad
abszrrdurn. At a dinner party a learned and pedantic
Oxonian was becoming very tiresome with
his Greek erudition, which he insisted on pouring
forth on a variety of topics xore or less recondite,
At length, at a stage of the discussion on some historical
point, Lord Robertson turned round, and,
fixing his’large grey eyes upon the Englishman,
said, with a solemn and judicial air, “I rather
think, sir, Dionysius of Halicamassus is against
you there.” ‘: I beg your pardon,” said the other,
quickly; “Dionysius did not flourish for ninety
years after that period !” ‘I Oh! ” rejoined Robertson,
with an expression of face that must be
imagined, ‘ I I made a mistake-I meant nludkeus
of Warsaw.” After that the discussion flowed
no longer in the Greek channg1.a
He was author sf a large quarto volume of singu-
-.
W h d s ‘‘ Memoirs,” rd ii ... longer in the Greek channg1.a He was author sf a large quarto volume of singu- -. W h d s ‘‘ Memoirs,” ...

Vol. 4  p. 193 (Rel. 0.56)

Leith Walk.] . REPULSE OF CROMWELL. 1.5 I
direction of Leith Walk, as by charter under thc
Great Seal, dated at Edinburgh, 13thAugust, 1456
King James 11. granted, “preposito, baZZiuis et corn
munitati nosh‘ de Rdinlbuv-gh,” the valley or loa
ground between the well called Craigangilt, on thc
east side (i.e., the Calton Hill), “ and the commor
way and road towards the town of Leith, on tht
west side,” etc.
. But the origin of Leith Loan-or Leith Walk, a:
.we now call it-was purely accidental, and tht
result of the contingencies of war.
In 1650, to repel Cromwell’s attack upon thc
city, Sir Alexander Leslie had the whole Scottish
army skilfully entrenched in rear of a strong breastwork
of earth that lay from north to south between
Edinburgh and Leith. Its right flank was de.
fended by redoubts armed with guns on the green
slope of the Calton Hill ; its left by others on the
eastern portions of Leith and St. ilnthony’s Port,
which enfiladed the line and swept all the open
ground towards Restalrig. In addition to all this,
the walls of the city were everywhere armed with
cannon, and the banners of the trades were displayed
above its gates.
Along the line of this entrenchment Charles II.,
after landing at Leith from Stirling, proceeded on
horseback to the city. His appearance created the
greatest enthusiasm, all the more so that Cromwell’s
arms were seen glittering in the distance. Around
Charles was his Life Guard of Horse, led by the Earl
of Eglinton, magnificently armed and mounted, and
having on their embroidered standards the crown,
sword, and sceptre, with the mottoes Nobis hczc inviita
misemnt, and Pro Religione, Rege, et Patrid.
On Monday, the 24th of July, Cromwell furiously
attacked the entrenchment, as he had been exasperated
by the result of a sortie made by Major
General Montgomery, who at the head of 2,000
Scottish dragoons, had repulsed an advanced
column, and ‘( killed five Colonells and Lieutenant-
Colonells, mortally wounded Lieut.-Gen. Lambert
and five hundred soldiers.” (Balfour.) As the
English advanced, the rising sun shone full upon
the long lines of Scottish helmets glittering above
the rough earthwork, where many a pike was
gleaming and inany a standard waving. Clearing
the rocks and house of Restalrig, they advanced
over the plain westward from Lochend, when the
field batteries atthe Quarry Holes, the guns on Leith
and theCalton,openedon them simultaneously, while
a rolling and incessant fire of musketry ran along
the whole Scottish line from flank to flank, and was
poured in closely and securely from the summit of
the breastwork. They were speedily thrown into
confusion, and fled in considerable disorder, leaving
behind them some pieces of cannon and the ground
strewn with dead and wounded.
Cromwell’s vigorous attack on the southern part
of the city was equally well repulsed, and he then
drew off from it till after his victory at Dunbar.
At this time General Leslie’s head-quarters were
in the village of Broughton, from whence many of
his despatches were dated ; and when the war was
shifted to other quarters, his famous breastwork
became the established footway between the capital
and its seaport.
Midway between these long stood an edifice, of
which no vestige remains-the Rood Chapel, repairs
upon which were paid for by the city in
1554-5. It stood in the vicinity of the Gallow
Lee, a place memorable for a desperate conflict
between the Kingsmen and Queensmen in 1571,
when the motto of “God shaw the Richt,” was
conferred on Captain Crawford, of Jordan Hill, by
the Regent Morton, and whose tombstone is yet
to be seen in the churchyard of Kilbirnie. On
nearly the same ground in 1G04 James Hardie, of
Bounmylnerig, with others, in the month of April,
between nine and ten in the evening, assailed
Jacques de la Berge, a Fleming, forced him to quit
his saddle, and thereafter rypeit him” of gold
and silver, for which Hardie was hanged at the
Cross and his goods forfeited.
Though in 1610 Henrie Anderson, a native of
Stralsund, in Pomerania, obtained a royal patent
for coaches to run between Edinburgh and Leith
at the rate of zd. per passenger, we have no record
of how his speculation succeeded ; nor was it until
1660 that William Woodcock obtained a license
“to fitt and set up ane haickney coatch for the
service of his Majesty’s lieges, betwix Leith and
Edinburgh,” at the rate of 12s. (Scots) per passenger,
if the latter decided to travel alone, but if
three went with him, the charge was to be no more
than 12s. ; and all who came upward to Edinburgh
were to alight at the foot of Leith Wynd, “for the
staynes yr of.”
From that time we hear no more of Leith stages
till 1678, as mentioned in our first volume; but in
1702 a person named Robert Miller obtained permission
to keep four vehicles to ply between the
two towns for nine years. Individual enterprise
having failed to make stages here remunerative,
the magistrates in 1722 granted to a company the
cxclusive right to run coaches on Leith Walk for a
period of twenty-one years, each to hold six passengers,
the fare to be gd. in summer and 4d. in
winter; but this speculation did not seem to pay,
md in 1727 the company raised the fares to 4d.
md 6d. respectively. ... of Leith stages till 1678, as mentioned in our first volume ; but in 1702 a person named Robert Miller ...

Vol. 5  p. 151 (Rel. 0.56)

70 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Water of Leith.
of Badajoz is extolled by Napier, and who died
fort major of Edinburgh Castle. On the opposite
side of the path, a modest stone marks the spot
where lies Captain John Grant, the last survivor
of the old Peninsula Gordon Highlanders, who
covered the retreat at Alba de Tormes, and was
the last officer to quit the town.
Near it is the grave of Captain Charles Gray of
the Royal Marines, the genial author of so many
Scottish songs ; and perhaps one of the most interesting
interments of recent years was that of Lieutenant
John Irving, R.N. (son of John Irving, W.S.,
the schoolfellow and intimate friend of Sir Walter
Scott), one of the officers of the ill-fated Franklin
expedition, who died in 1848 or 1849, and whose
remains were sent home by Lieutenant Sohwatka,
of the United States Navy, and laid in the Dean
Cemetery in January, 1881, after a grand naval and
military funeral, in accordance with his rank as
Lieutenant of the Royal Navy."
CHAPTER VII.
VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH (continlced).
The Dean Bridge-Landslips at Stockbridge-Stone Coffins-Floods in the Leith-Population in 174a-St. Bemard's Estate-Ross's Tower
-I' Christopher North" in Anne Street-De Quincey there-%. Bernard's Well-Cave at Randolph Cliff-Veitch's Square-Chuiches in.
the Localit$-Sir Henry Raebm-Old Deanhiugh-House.
ABOUT a hundred yards west by north of Randolph
Crescent this deep valley is spanned by a stately
bridge, built in 1832, after designs by Telford.
This bridge was erected almost solely at the expense
of the Lord Provost Learmonth of Dean,
to form a direct communication with his property,
with a view to the future feuing of the latter.
It was when an excavation was made for its northern
pier that the Roman urn was found of which
an engraving will be seen on page 10 of the first
volume of this work. Over the bridge, the roadway
passes at the great height of 106 feet above the
rocky bed of the stream. The arches are four in
number, and each is ninety-six feet in span. The
total length is 447 feet, the breadth thirty-nine feet
between the parapets, from which a noble view of
the old Leith village, with its waterfall, is had to
the westward, while on the east the eye travels
along the valley to the distant spires of the seaport.
That portion of it adjoining Stockbridge is still
very beautiful and picturesque, but was far more
so in other days, when, instead of the plain back
Views of Moray Place and Ainslie Place, the steep
green bank was crowned by the stately trees of
Drumsheugh Park, and tangled brakes of bramble
and sweet-smelling hawthorn overhung the water
of the stream, which was then pure, and in some
places abounded with trout. Unconfined by stone
walls, 'the long extent of the mill-lade here was
then conveyed in great wooden ducts, raised upon
posts. These ducts were generally leaky, and
being patched and mended from time to time, and
covered with emerald-green moss and garlands of
creepers and water-plants, added to the rural
aspect of the glen. Between the bridge and the
mineral well, a great saugh tree, shown in one of;
Ewbank's views, overhung the lade and footpath,.
imparting fresh beauty to the landscape.
'' At Stockbridge," says the Edinburgh Advertiser
for 1823, '' we cannot but regret that the rage for
building is fast destroying the delightful scenery
between it and the neighbouring village of the:
Water of Leith, which had so long been a prominent
ornament in the envGons of our ancient
city."
At the southern end of the bridge, where
Randolph Cliff starts abruptly up, dangerous landslips
have more than once occurred ; one notably
so in March, 1881, when a mass of rock and earth
fell down, and completely choked up the lade which
drives the Greenland, Stockbridge, and Canonmills,
flour-mills.
At the north-westem end of the bridge is the
Trinity Episcopal Church, built in 1838, from a.
design by John Henderson, in the later English
style, with nave, aisles, and a square tower. To the
north-eastward an elegant suburb extends away
down the slope until it joins Stockbridge, comprising
crescents, terraces, and streets, built between
1850 and 1877.
The following is a detailed explanation of the woodcut on the
previous page :-I, View looking along the West Wall, showing, on the
right, the monument to Buchanan, founder of the Buchanan Institute,
Glasgow, and on the extreme left, the grave of Mr. Ritchie, of Tlu
Smlmruz (the pyramid at further end of walk is Lord Rutherford's
tomb, and Lord Cockbum's is near to it); z, Sir Archibald Alison's
gave (the larger of the Gothic mural tablets in white marble): 3,
Grave of George Combe ; 1, Monument to Alexander Russel, Editor
>f T/u Scoismm; 5, Tomb, on extreme left, of Lord Rutherford, next
to it that of Lord Jeffrey, the Runic Cross in the path is erected to.
Lieut. Irving of the Franklin Expedition; 6, Grave of Prof. W%on
:obelisk under tree), and of Prof. Aytoun (marble pedestal with crose
>U top). ... that the Roman urn was found of which an engraving will be seen on page 10 of the first volume of this work. ...

Vol. 5  p. 70 (Rel. 0.55)


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