Old and New Edinburgh

Old and New Edinburgh

Search

Index for “monks at holyrood”

down the street, reached Holyrood, where he sought sanctuary in the chapel of St. Augustine; there his English pursuers found him on his knees before the altar. WEST FRONT OF HOLYROOD ABBEY CHUKCH. ever intent on revenge, joined Sir William Douglas, the Black Knight of Liddesdale, whose forces lay in the fastnesses of Pentland Muir. From there one night he led the Liddesdale men, tion, violate the sanctuary, they set a guard upon ! the then open and unwalled city, attacked the the church, resolving to starve him into surrender ; i English, and left 400 of them dead in the streets. but fortunately for Robert Prendergast, the monks .of Holyrood were loyal to their king, and thinking probably an Englishman less in the world mattered :little from a Scottish point of view, they conveyed to him provisions every night unseen by the guard, For twelve days and nights he lurked by the altar *of St. Augustine, until, disguised in a monk‘s cowl ;and gown, he effected an escape; and more than Sir William Douglas re-captured the fortress in the following year. In 1370 David 11. was interred with every solemnity before the high altar, the site of which is now in the Palace Garden. It was inscribed, “UiC Rex sub Zapide Davici izditus af tumukrfus,” as given by Fordun. On the 18th of January, 1384-5, Robert IL, ... the street, reached Holyrood, where he sought sanctuary in the chapel of St. Augustine; there his English ...

Vol. 3  p. 53 (Rel. 2.96)

44 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood of it having perhaps been reduced to ruins before the view was taken. During the levelling of the ground around the palace, and digging a foundation for the substantial rai!ing with which it was recently enclosed, the workmen came upon the the present rampart wall, when near the same site two stone coffins of the twelfth century, now in the nave, were found. Each is six feet four inches. in length, inside measurement. In the abbey was preserved, enshrined in silver,. CROFT-AN-RIGH HOUSE. zealous veneration in the great cathedral near the The texture of this remarkable cross was said to have been of such a nature that no mortal artificer could tell whether it was of wood, horn, OG , field. of other early buildings [perhaps the abbey house?], and from their being in the direct line of the building it is not improbable that a Lady chapel or other addition to the abbey church may have stood to the east of the choir. . . . A curious relic of the ancient tenants of the monastery was found by the vorkmen, consisting of a skull, which had no doubt formed the solitary companion of one of the monks. It had a hole in the top of the cranium, which served, most probably, for securing a crucifix, and over the brow ‘ was traced in antique characters, Memento mori. This solitary relic of the furniture of the abbey was procured by the late Sir Patrick Walker, and is still in possession of his family.” ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood of it having perhaps been reduced to ruins before the view was taken. During ...

Vol. 3  p. 44 (Rel. 2.34)

according to Bellenden, was now standing boldly at bay, and, with its branching antlers, put the life of the pious monarch in imminent jeopardy, as he and his horse were both borne to the ground. With a short hunting-sword, while fruitlessly endeavouring to defend himself against the infuriated animal, there appeared-continues the legend-a silver cloud, from the centre of which there came forth a hand, which placed in that of David a sparkling cross of miraculous construction, in so far that the material of which it was composed could never be discovered. Scared by this interposition, the white stag fled down the hollow way between the hills, but was afterwards slain by Sir Gregan Crawford, whose crest, a stag‘s head erased with a cross-crosslet between the antlers, is still borne by his descendants, the Crawfords of Kilbirnie, in memory of that eventful day in the forest of Drurnsheugh. Thoughtful, and oppressed with great awe, the king slowly wended his way through the forest to the Castle ; but the wonder did not end there, for when, after a long vigil, the king slept, there appeared by his couch St. Andrew, the apostle of Scotland, surrounded by rays of glory, instructing him to found, upon the exact spot where he had been miraculously saved, a fwegfh monastery for the canons regular of St. Augustine ; and, in obedience to this vision, he built the noble abbey of Holyrood, “in the little valley between two mountains ”-i.e., the Craigs and the Calton. Therein the marvellous cross was preserved till it was lost at a long subsequent period; but, in memory of St. David’s adventure on Rood-day, a stag‘s head with a cross between the antlers is still boqe as the arms of the Canongate. Alfwin was appointed first abbot, and left a glorious memory for many virtues.* Though nobly endowed, this famous edifice was not built for several years, during which the monks were received into the Castle, and occupied buildings which had been previously the abode of a community of nuns, who, by permission of Pope Alexander III., were removed, the monks, as Father Hay tells us, being deemed “as fitter to live among soldiers.” Abbot M7illiard appears, in 1152, as second superior of the monks in the Castrum Puellarum, where they resided till I I 76. A vehement dispute respecting the payment of tithes having occurred between Robert bishop of St. Andrews and Gaufrid abbot of Dunfermline, it was decided by the king, apud Casielum PueZZamm, m presence of a great convention, con- ’ “ Memorials of Ediiburgh Castle.” sisting of the abbots of Holyrood and Stirling, Gregory bishop of Dunkeld, the Earls of Fife and March, Hugo de Morville the Lord High Constable, William Lord of Carnwath, David de Oliphant a knight of Lothian, Henry the son of Swan, and many others, and the matter in debate was adjudicated on satisfactorily. David--‘< sair sanct for the crown ” though King James I. is said to have styled him-was one of the best of the early kings of Scotland. “I have seen him,” remarks Aldred, “quit his horse and dismiss his hunting equipage when any, even the humblest of his subjects, desired an audience ; he sometimes employed his leisure hours in the culture of his garden, and in the philosophical amusement of budding and engrafting trees.” In the priory of Hexham, which was then in Scottish territory, he was found dead, in a posture of devotion, on the 24th of May, 1153, and was succeeded by his grandson Malcolm IV. who, though he frequently resided in the Castle, considered Scone his capital rather than Edinburgh. In 1153 he appointed Galfrid de Melville, of Melville in Lothian, to be sheriff of the fortress, and became a great benefactor to the monks within it. In 1160, Fergus, Lord of Galloway, a turbulent thane, husband of the Princess Elizabeth daughter of Henry I. of England, having taken arms against the Crown, was defeated in three desperate battles by Gilbert de Umfraville ; after which he gave his son Uchtred as a hostage, and assumed the cowl as an Augustine friar in the Castle of Edinburgh, where-after bestowing the priory of St. Marie de Tray11 as a dependant on Holyrood-he died, full of grief and mortification, in IIGI. Malcolm died in 1165, and was succeeded by William the Lion, who generally resided at Haddington; but many of his public documents are dated “Ajud Monasienicnt San& Crzmi de CasteZZo.” In 1174 the Castle fell, for the first time, into the hands of the English. William the Lion having demanded the restitution of Northumberland, Henry of England affected to comply, but afterwards invaded Scotland, and was repulsed. In turn William entered England at the head of 80,ooo men, who sorely I ravaged the northern counties, but being captured by treachery near Alnwick, and treated with wanton barbarity and indecency, his vast force dispersed. A ransom of AIoo,ooo-an enormous sum in those dayswas demanded, and the Castle was given, with some others, as a hostage for the king. Fortunately, however, that which was lost by the chances of war was quickly restored by more pleasant means, ... to Bellenden, was now standing boldly at bay, and, with its branching antlers, put the life of the ...

Vol. 1  p. 22 (Rel. 2.21)

THE CANONGATE TOLBOOTH. OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. - CHAPTER I. THE CANONGATE. Its Origin-Songs concerning it-Records-Market Cross-St. Job’s and the Girth Crosses-Early Hktory-The Town of H~bcrgarc- Canongate Paved-The Governing Body-Fbising the DeviL-Purchase of the Earl of Roxburgh‘s ‘‘ Superiority ”-The Foreign Settlement -Gorge Heriot the Elder-Huntly’s House-Sir Walter Scott’s Story of a Fire-The Morocco Land-Houses of Oliphant of Nmland, Ltrd David Hay, and Earl of Angus-Jack’s Land-Shoemakers’ Lands-Marquiz of Huntly’s How-Nisbet of Dirleton’s Mansion- Golfer’s Land-John and Nicol Patemn-The Porch and Gatehouse of the Abbey-Lucky Spence. THE Canongate-of old the Court-end of Edinburgh- takes its name from the Augustine monks of Holyrood, who were permitted to build it by the charter of David I. in I I 28, and to rule it as a burgh of regality. “The canons,” says Chalmers, .<‘‘ were empowered to settle here a village, and from them the street of this settlement was called the Canongate, from the Saxon gaet, a way or street, 40 according to’the practice of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries in Scotland and England. The irnmunities which the canons and their villagers enjoyed from David’s grant, soon raised up a town, which extended from the Abbey to the Nether Port of Edinburgh, and the townsmen performed their usual devotions in the church of the Abbey till the Reformation,” after which it continued to ... CANONGATE TOLBOOTH. OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. - CHAPTER I. THE CANONGATE. Its Origin-Songs concerning ...

Vol. 3  p. 1 (Rel. 2.13)

50 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood. Wllliam, who had property in Broughton, after his death, none bore even nominally the title of abbot. A part of the lands fill to the Earl of Roxburghe, from whom the superiority passed, as narrated elsewhere. The “Chronicon Sancta Crucis” was commenced by the canons of Holyrood, but the portion that has been preserved comes down only to 1163, and breaks off at the time of their third abbot. “Even the Indices Sanctorum and the ‘ two Calendars of Benefactors and Brethren, begun from the earliest times, and continued by the care of numerous monks,’ may-when allowance is made for the magniloquent style of the recorder-man nothing more than the united calendar, martyrology, and ritual book, which is fortunately still preserved. It is a large folio volume of 132 leaves of thick vellum, in oak boards covered with stamped leather, which resembles the binding of the sixteenth century.” . The extent of the ancient possessions of this great abbey may be gathered from the charters and gifts in the valuable Munim-nta Ecdesicp San& Cmcis de Edwinesburg and the series of Sent Rollr. To enumerate the vestments, ornaments, jewels, relics, and altar vessels of gold and silver set with precious stones, would far exceed our limits, but they are to be found at length in the second volume of the “ Bannatyne Miscellany.” When the monastery was dissolved at the Reformation its revenues were great, and according to the two first historians of Edinburgh its annual income then was stated as follows : By Maitland : In wheat. 27 chaldea, 10 bolls. I) In bear ... 40 .. g .. I t Inoa ts... 34 .. 15 .. 3tpecks. 501 capons, 24 hens, 24 salmon, 12 loads of salt, and an unknown number of swine. In money, &926 8s. 6d. Scots. By Arnot : In wheat ............ 442 bolls. .. ............. In bear 640 ss .. In oats .............. 560 .. with the same amount in other kind, and.&o sterling. CHAPTER VIII. HOLYROOD ABBEY (concluded). Charter of Willim 1.-Trial of the Scottish Tcmplars-Prrndergast’s Rercnpe--chanas by ROM IL and 111.-The Lord of the Isles- Coronation of James 11.-Marriages of James I[. and III.-Church, Bc. Burned by the Englih-Ph&d by them-Its Restoration by James VU.-The Royal Vault-Desaiption of the Chapel Royal-Plundered at the Revolution-Ruined in x*-The West Front- The Belhavcn Mouument-The Churchyard-Extent of Present Ruin-The Sanctuary-The Abbey Bells. .KING WILLIAM THE LION, in a charter under his :great seal, granted between the years 1171 and 1r77, ddressed to “all the good men of his whole kingdom, French, English, Scots, and Galwegians,” confirmed the monks of Holyrood in all that had been given them by his grandfather, King David, together with many other gifts, including the pasture of a thousand sheep in Rumanach (Romanno?), -a document witnessed in the castle, “apud &densehch. ” In 1309, when Elias 11. was abbot, there occurred an interesting event at Holyrood, of which no notice has yet been taken in any,history of Scotland-the trial of the Scottish Knights of the Temple on the usual charges niade against the erder, aftet the terrible murmurs that rose against it in Paris, London, and elsewhere, in consequence -of its alleged secret infidelity, sorcery, and other vices. According to the Processus factus contra Tem- .#arias in Scofict, in Wilkins’ Concilia,” a work of great price and rarity, it was in the month of December, 1309-when the south of ScotIand was averrun by the English, Irish, Welsh, and Norman troops of Edward II., and John of Bretagne, Earl of Richmond, was arrogantly called lieutenant of the kingdom, though Robert Bruce, succeeding to the power and popularity of Wallace, was in arms in the north-that Master John de Soleure, otherwise styled of Solerio, “chaplain to our lord the Pope,” together with William Lamberton, Bishop of St. Andrews, met at the Abbey of Holyrood “for the trial of the Templars, and two brethren of that order undernamed, the only persons of the order present in the kingdom of Scotland, by command of our most holy lord Clement V.” Some curious light is thrown upon the inner life of the order by this trial, which it is impossible to give at full length. In the first place appeared Brother Walter of Clifton, who, being sworn on the Gospels, replied that he had belonged to the military order of the Temple for ten years, since the last feast of All Saints, and had been received into it at Temple Bruer, at Lincoln, in England, by Brother William de la More (whom Raynouard, in his work on the order, calls a Scotsman), and that the Scottish brother knights received the statutes and observ ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood. Wllliam, who had property in Broughton, after his death, none bore even ...

Vol. 3  p. 50 (Rel. 2.05)

46 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHolyrood these ecclesiastical foundations :-The Priory of St. Mary’s Isle, in Galloway, gifted by Fergus, Lord of Galloway, who died a monk of Holyrood in 1161 ; the Priory of Blantyre, secluded on a rock above the Clyde ; Kowadill, in Hemes, gifted by Mac- Leod of Herries ; Oransay and Colonsay-in the former still stands their priory, built by a Lord of the Isles, one of the finest relics of religious antiquity in the Hebrides; the church of Melgynch, granted to them by Matthew, Abbot of Dunkeld, in 1289; the church of Dalgarnock, granted to them by John, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1322 j and the church and vicarage of Kirkcudbright, by of Haddington, mm ferra de Clerkynton, per rectas divisas. In 1177 the monastery was still in the Castle of Edinburgh. In 1180 Alexius, a subdeacon, held a council of the Holy Cross near Edinburgh, with reference to the long-disputed consecration of John Scott, Bishop of St. Andrews, when a double election had taken place. VI. WILLIAM II., abbot in 1206. During his time, John Bishop of Candida Casa resigned his mitre, became a canon .of Holyrood, and was buried in the chapter-house, where a stone long marked his grave. VII. WALTER, Prior of Inchcolm, abbot in 111. WILLIAM I. succeeded in 1152. He witnessed several charters of Malcolm IV. and William the Lion; and when he became aged and infirm, he vowed to God that he would say his Psalter every day. He enclosed the abbey with a strong wall. IV. ROBERT is said to have been abbot about the time of William the Lion. “ He granted to the inhabitants of the newly-projected burgh of the Canongate various privileges, which were confirmed, with additional benefactions, by David II., Robert III., and James 111. These kings granted to the bailies and community the annuities payable by the burgh, and also the common muir between the ’ lands of Broughton on the west and the lands of Pilrig on the east, on the north side of the road from Edinburgh to Leith.” V. JOHN, abbot in 1173, witnessed a charter of Richard Bishop of St. Andrews (chaplain to Malcolm IV.), granting to his canons the church the chapel of St Mary. XI, HENRY, the next abbot, was named Bishop of Galloway in 1253; consecrated in 1255 by the Archbishop of York, XII. RADULPH, abbot, is mentioned in a gift of lands at Pittendreich to the monks of St. Marie de Newbattle. XIII. ADAM, a traitor, and adherent of England, who did homage to Edward I. in 1292, and for whom he examined the records in the Castle of Edinburgh. He is called Alexander by Dempster. XIV. ELIAS 11. is mentioned as abbot at the time of the Scots Templar Trials in 1309, and in a deed of William Lamberton, Bishop of St. Andrews, in 1316. In his time, Holyrood, like Melrose and Dryburgh, was ravaged by the baffled army of Edward 11. in 1322. XV. SYMON OF WEDALE, abbot at the vigil of St. Barnabas, 1326, when Robert I. held a Parliament in Holyrood, at which was ratified a concord ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHolyrood these ecclesiastical foundations :-The Priory of St. Mary’s Isle, in ...

Vol. 3  p. 46 (Rel. 1.97)

founder to his new monastery were the churches of St. Cuthbert. and of the Castle, among which one plot of land belonging to the former is marked by ‘‘ the fountain which rises near the king’s garden, on the road leading to 3t. Cuthbert‘s church,” i.e., the fountain in the Well-house Tower. This valley-the future North Loch-was then Castle, where, in the twenty-first year of his reign, he granted a charter to the Abbey of Kelso, the witnesses to which, apud Castrum PueZZarum, were John, Bishop of Glasgow ; Prince Henry, his son ; William, his nephew ; Edward, the Chancellor ; ‘‘ BarthoZomeo $Zio Cornitis, et WiZZieZnza frateer i u s ; Jordan0 Hayrum;” Hugo de Morville, thc ST. MARGARET’S CHAPEL, EDINBURGH CASTLE, the garden, which Malcolm, the son of Pagan, culjivated for David II., and where tournaments were held, 44 while deep pools and wide morasses, tangled wood and wild animals, made the rude diverging pathways to the east and westward extremely dangerous for long after, though lights were burned at the Hermitage of St. Anthony on the Crag and the spire of St. John of Corstorphin, to guide the unfortunate wight who was foolhardy enough to travel after nightfall.” In 1144 we find (King David resident in the constable ; Odenell de Umphraville ; Robert Bruce ; William of Somerville; David de Oliphant; and William of Lindsay. The charter of foundation to the abbey of Holyrood-which will be referred to more fully in its place-besides conferring valuable revenues, derivable from the general resources of the city, gave the monks a right to dues to nearly the same amount from the royal revenues of the port of Perth, which was the more ancient capital of Scotland. ... to his new monastery were the churches of St. Cuthbert. and of the Castle, among which one plot of land ...

Vol. 1  p. 20 (Rel. 1.97)

$80 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bmughtoa -- REMAINS OF THE VILLAGE OF OLD RROUGHTON, Isj2. (From a Drawing by Gcorp W. Simson ) CHAPTER XXV. THE VILLAGE AND BAKONY OF BROUGHTON. Brouzhton-The Villaee and Baronv-The Loan-Brouehton first mentioned-Feudal Superiors-Wltches Burned-Leslie’s Head-quarters- -Gordon of E1lor;‘s Children Murdered-Taken Rei Hand-Th Churches erected in the Bounds of the Barony. ACROSS the once well-tilled slope where now York Place stands, a narrow and secluded way between hedgerows, called the Loan of Broughton, led for ages to the isolated village of that name, of which but a few vestiges still remain. In a mernoir of Robert Wallace, D.D., the eminent author of the “Essay on the Numbers of Mankind,” and other works, an original member of the Rankenion Club-a literary society instituted at Edinburgh in 1716-we are told, in the Scots Magazine for 1809, that “he died 29th of July, 1771, at his cuzlntty lodgings in Broughton Loan, in his 75th year.” This baronial burgh, or petty town, about a mile distant by the nearest road from the ancient city, stood in hollow ground southward and eastward from the line of London Street, and had its own tolbooth and court-house, with several substantial stone mansions and many thatched cot- L‘olbooth of the Buigh-The Mmute Books-Free Burgesses-Modern tages, in 1780, and a few of the former are still surviving. Bruchton, or Broughton, according to Maitland, signified the Castle-town. If this place ever possessed a fortalice or keep, from whence its name seems to be derived, all vestiges of it have disappeared long ago. It is said to have been connected with the Castle of Edinburgh, and that from the lands of Broughton the supplies for the garrison came. But this explanation has been deemed by some fanciful. The earliest notice of Broughton is in the charter of David I. to Holyrood, ciwa A.D. 1143-7, wherein he grants to the monks, “Hereth, e2 Broctunam mm suis rectis a’iuisis,” &c. ; thus, with its lands, it belonged to the Church till the Reforrnation, when it was vested in the State. According to the stent roll of the abbey, the Barony of Broughton was most ample in extent,.and, among ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bmughtoa -- REMAINS OF THE VILLAGE OF OLD RROUGHTON, Isj2. (From a Drawing by Gcorp ...

Vol. 3  p. 180 (Rel. 1.74)

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CATHEDRAL, 1787 (aper The Canongate Tolbooth . . . . . . I The Burgh Seal of the Canongate . . . , 3 TheMarket Cross, Canongate . . . . . 3 Haddington’s Entry . . . . . . . 4 East End of High Street, Nether Bow, and West End of Canongate . . . . . . . 5 Effigy of the Moor, Morocco Land . . . . 7 The Marquis of Huntly’s House, from the Canongate. 8 The MarquisofHuntly’sIlouse,from BakehouseClose‘ g Nisbet of Dirleton’s House . , . , . 12 The Golfers’ Land . . . . . . . 13 The Canongate-Continuation Eastward of Plan on page 5 . . . . . e . . 16 Tolbooth Wynd . . . . . . . 20 Lintel of John Hunter’s House, Panmure Close . . ZI The Water Gate . , . . . . . q Chessel’s Buildings . . . . . . . 25 Lintel above the Door of Sir A. Acheson’s House . 27 Smollett’s House, St. John Street . . . . 28‘ The Canongate Church . , . . . , 29 Fergusson’s Grave . . . . . . . 30 The Stocks, from thecanongate Tolbooth. . . 31 Levee Room in Moray House ; Sommer House in the Garden of Moray House ; Arbour in the Garden PAGE ‘ of Moray House ; Portion of a Ceiling in Moray House . . . . . . . . 32 Moray House . . . . . . . . 33 East End of the Canongate . . . . . 36 The Gnongate, looking West . . . . . 37 The Palace Gafe . . . . . . . 40 Queen Mary’s Bath . . . . . . . 41 Croft-an-righ House . . . , . . . 44 H o l p d Palace and Abbey . , ,. . . 45 Seal of Holymd Abbey . . . . . . 46 TheAbbeyChurch . . . . . . . 4 OF, ILLUSTRATIONS. D a d AZZm).-F~on&pzkc. PAGE Interim of the Chapel Royal of Holyrood House, 1687 49 Ground Plan of the Chapel Royal of Holyrood House 52 West Front of H o l y r d Abbey Church . , . 53 Interior of Holyrood Church, looking East . . 56 North Entrance to the Nave of Holyrood Abbey Church 57 The Belhaven Monument, Holyrood Church . . 60 Isometric Projection of the Royal Palace of Holyrood House . . . . . . . 61 The Abbey Port . . . . . . . 64 The Queen Mary Apartments, Holyrood Palace To faccpagc 66 Royal Gardens, and Ancient Horologe . . 68 Gardens, the Abbey Kirk, and‘the Kirkyard , 69 72 Holyrood Palxe, the Regent Moray’s House, the The Palaceof Holyrood House, the South and North Holyrood Palaceasit was before theFire of 1650 Holyrood Palace and Abbey Church, from the South- East . . . . . . . . . 73 The Royal Apartments, H o l y r d Palace Tu farepage 74 The Quadrangle, Holyrood Palace . . . . 76 The Gallery of the Kings, Holyrood Palace . . 77 Holyrood Palace, West Front . . . . . 80 The Hol-mod Fountain . . . . . , 81 The Royal Institution as itwas in 1829 . . . 84 The Royal Institution. . . . . . 85 TheNationalGallery. . . .. . . . 88 Interior of theNational Gallery . . . . Sg The Bank of Scotland, from Princes Street Gardens . 96 Head of the Mound, prior to the erection of the Free Church College, 1844 . . To factpage 97 Library of the Free Church College . . . . 97 West Princes Street Gardens, 1875 . . . . lot Nelson’s Monument, Calton Rill, from Princes Street. I O ~ The Calton Hill, Calton Gaol, Burying-ground, and Monuments. . . . . . . . 105 ... OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CATHEDRAL, 1787 (aper The Canongate Tolbooth . . . . . . I The Burgh Seal of the ...

Vol. 4  p. 392 (Rel. 1.63)

DUNGEONS IN THE CASTLE BELOW QUEEN MARY’S ROOM. CHL4PTER 111. CASTLE OF EDINBURGH-(cantinued.~~e~.) The Legend of the White Hart-Holyrood Abbey founded-The Monks of the Castrum Puellarum-David 1,’s numerous Endowments-His Death-Fergus, Lord of Gallaway. dies there-William the Lion-Castle Garrisoiied by the English for Twelve Years-The Castle a Royal Residence-The War of the Scottish Succession-The Castle in the hands of Edward I.-Frank’s Escalade-The Fortress Dismantled -Again in the hands of the English-Bullocks Stratagem for its Resapture-David‘s Tower. “THE well-known legend of the White Hart,’’ says Daniel Wilson, “ most probably had its origin in some real occurrence, magnified by the superstition of a rude and illiterate age. More recent observations at least suffice to show that it existed at a much earlier date than Lord Hailes referred it to.” It is recorded that on Rood-day, the 14th of September, in the harvest of 1128, the weather being fine and beautiful, King David and his courtiers, after mass, left the Castle by that gate before which he was wont to dispense justice to his people, and issued forth to the chase in the wild country that lay around-for then over miles of the land now covered by the new and much of the old city, for ages into times unknown, the oak-trees of the primeval forest of Drumsheugh had shaken down their leaves and acorns upon the wild and now extinct animals of the chase. And here it may be mentioned that boars’ tusks of most enormous size were found in 1846 in the bank to the south of the half-moon battery, together with an iron axe, the skull and bones of a man. On this Rood-day we are told that the king issued from the Castle contrary to the advice of his confessor, Alfwin, an Augustinian monk of great sanctity and learning, who reminded him that it was the feast of the’ Exaltation of the Cross, and should be passed in devotion, not in hunting; but of this advice the king took no heed. Amid the dense forest and in the ardour of the chase he became separated from his train, in “ the vail that lyis to the eist fra the said castell,” and found himself at the foot of the stupendous crags, where, “under the shade of a leafy tree,” he was almost immediately assailed by a white stag of gigantic size, which had been maddened by the pursuit, “noys and dyn of bugillis,” and which, ... IN THE CASTLE BELOW QUEEN MARY’S ROOM. CHL4PTER 111. CASTLE OF EDINBURGH-(cantinued.~~e~.) The Legend ...

Vol. 1  p. 21 (Rel. 1.62)

64 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. ,The Dean. Among the old houses here may be mentioned a mill, or granary, immediately at the southeast end of the bridge, which has sculptured over its door, within a panel, two baker’s peels, crossed with the date 1645, and the almost inevitable legend--“ BZeisit be God for CZZ His g@s.” Another quaint-old crowstepped double house, with A mill or mills must have stood here before a stone of Holyrood was laid, as David I., in his charter of foundation to that abbey, grants to the monks “one of my mills of Dene, a tithe of the mill of Libertun and of Dene, and of the new mill of Edinburgh,” A.D. I 143-7. In 1592, “the landis of Dene, wt the mylnes and mure thereof, and their pertinents, lyand within the Sherifdom of Edinburgh,” were given by James VI. to James Lord Lindesay, of the Byres. On the panel are carved a wheatsheaf between two cherubs’ heads, the bakers’ arms within a wreath of oak-leaves, and the motto, God’s Providence is ovr Inheritance-1677.” In 1729 a number of Dutch bleachers from Haarlem commenced a bleach-field somewhere near the Water of Leith, and soon exhibited to the village were wont to incarcerate culprits. It is six storeys in height, including the dormer windows, has six crowstepped gables, two of which surmount the square projecting staircases, in the westmost of which is a handsomely moulded doorway, sur mounted by a frieze, entablature, and coat of arms within a square panel. On the frieze is the legend,. in large Roman letters- GOD . BLESS. THE . BAXTERS , OF . EDIN . BRUGH . WHO . BUILT , THIS . HOUSE. 1675. flights of outside stairs, has a gablet, surmounted by a well-carved mullet, and the date 1670. It stands on the west side of the steep path that winds upward to the Dean, and has evidently been the abodeof some well-to-do millers inthedaysof old. On the steep slope, where 2 flight of steps’ ascends to the old Ferry Road, stands the ancient Tolbooth, wherein the bailies of this once sequestered gaze and to the imitation of Scotland, the printing and stamping of all colours on linen fabrics. Some thirty years after, we find the Cournnt for December, 1761, announcing to the public ‘‘ that Isabel Brodie, spouse to William Rankin, in the Water of Leith, about a mile from Edinburgh, cures the Emerads” (i.e., Hemorrhoids) and various other illnesses; forquacksseem tohave existed theqasnow. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. ,The Dean. Among the old houses here may be mentioned a mill, or granary, immediately ...

Vol. 5  p. 64 (Rel. 1.6)

and here and there were sedgy pools and lonely displayed; stout and true Covenanters borne forth tarns, where the heron fished and waded, with the i in groups to die at the gallows or in the Greygreat sheet of the South Loch, where now the Meadows lie; and there, too, was Duddingston, but in size twice the extent we find it now. Of all these hills have looked on since the Roman altars of Jove smoked at lnveresk and Cramond, of all the grim old fortress on its rock and St. Giles’s Gothic and imperial crown have seen, we shall endeavour to lay the wondrous story before our readers. The generations of men are like the waves of the sea ; we know not whence they come or whither they go; but generation after generation of citizens shall Banquo’s spectral line of . Dinas-Eiddyn, with their glittering torques, armlets, and floating hair; the hoodedScoto-Saxons of Lothian and the Merse, with ringed bymes and long battle-axes ; the steel-clad knights bf the Bruces and the Jameses ; merchants and burghers in broadcloth ; monks, abbots, and nuns; Templars on their trial at Holyrood for sorcery and . blasphemy; Knights - hospitallers and hermits of St. Anthony; the old fighting merchant mariners of Leith, such as the Woods, the Bartons, and Sir Alexander Mathieson, (( the king of the sea ; ” friars churchyard, where stands the tomb which tells us how 18,000 ofthem perished as “noble martyrs for Jesus Christ ;” cavaliers in all their bravery and pride, and in the days of their suffering and downfall j the brawling gallants of a century later, who wore lace ruffles and rapiers, and “ paraded ’’ their opponents on the stiiallest provocation in the Duke’s Walk behind Holyrood ; the giave senators and jovial lawyers of the last century, who held their “high jinks” in dingy taverns near the Parliament House; and many of the quaint old citizens who pass before us like figure in the valuable repertory of Kay :-all shall kings; the men of pass in review before us, and we shall touch on them one and all, as we think of them, tenderly and kindly, as of those who are long since dead and gone-gone to their solemn account at the foot of the Great WhiteThrone. In picturesque beauty the capital of Scotland is second to none. ‘( What the tour of Europe was necessary to see,I find congregated in this one city,” said Sir David Wilkie. “Here alike are the beauties of Prague and of Salzburg, the romantic sites of Orvieto and Tivoli, and all the magnificence of the Bays of Naples andGenoa. COUNTER SEAL OF THE ABOVE.? (Af7e-r Hemy LahzJ Here, indeed, to the painwitches andwizards perishing in the flames at the Grassmarket or the Gallow- -lee ; the craftsmen in arms, with their Blue Banner The device of the common seal represents a castle triple-towered, the gats thrown open. In uch of the towen is the head of a soldier. F o l i e appears at the lower part and side of the seal, and above the towen may be seen a crescent and a mullet. The lettcrinz is “SIGIL- - LUY COMYUNI BURGI DE EDINBCBHG.“ ter‘s fancy may be 6und realised the Roman Capitol and the Grecian Acropolis.’’ t A full length figure df St. Giles standing within a Gothic porch in pontifical vestments but without a mitre; in his right hand he holds a crozier, and in his left a boak. At each side is a short staff terminating in a fleur-de-lis. Branches of foliagk ornament the lower part and sides of the design. The lettering k ‘‘ EcrDrI SINGNO CREDATIS (COUDE BENNI) GNO:’ (Fmm a Dmnunt dated 1392). ... here and there were sedgy pools and lonely displayed; stout and true Covenanters borne forth tarns, where the ...

Vol. 1  p. 8 (Rel. 1.48)

THE ROYAL APARTMENTS, HOLYROOD PALACE. ... ROYAL APARTMENTS, HOLYROOD ...

Vol. 3  p. v (Rel. 1.47)

Ho1yrood.J THE SCOTTISH TEMPLARS. 51 ances of the order from the Master of England, who received them from the Grand Master at Jerusalem and the Master at Cyprus. He had then to detail the mode of his reception into the order, begging admission with clasped hands and bended knees, aflirming that he had no debts and was not affianced to any woman, and that he ‘‘ vowed to be a perpetual servant to the master and the brotherhood, and to defend the Eastern land; to be for ever chaste and obedient, and to live without his own will and property.” A white mantle bad then been put upon his shoulder (to be worn over his chain armour, but looped up to leave the swordami free); a linen coif and the kiss of fraternity were then given him. On his knees he then vowed “never to dwell in a house where a woman was in labour, nor be present at the marriage or purification of one; that from thence forward he would sleep in his shirt and drawers, with a cord girt over the former.” The inquisitors, who were perhaps impatient to hear of the four-legged idol, the cat, and the devil, concerning all of which such curious confessions had been made by the Florentine Templars, now asked him if he had ever heard of scandals against the order during his residence at Temple in Lothian, or of knights that had fled from their pre ceptories; and he answered :- “Yes ; Brother Thomas Tocci and Brother John de Husflete, who for two years had been preceptor before him at Balantradoch (Temple), and also two other knights who were natives of England.” Being closely interrogated upon all the foolish accusations in the papal bull of Clement, he boldly replied to each item in the negative. Two of the charges were that their chaplains celebrated mass without the words of consecration, and that the knights believkd their preceptors could absolve sins. He explained that such powers could be delegated, and that he himself ‘‘ had received it a considerable time ago.” Sir William de Middleton, clad in the military order of the Temple, was next sworn and interrogated in the same manner. He was admitted into the order, he said, by Sir Brian le Jay, then Master of England, who was slain by Wallace at the battle of Falkirk, and had resided at Temple in Lothian and other preceptories of the order, and gave the same denials to the clauses in the bull that had been given by Clifton, with the addition that he “was prohibited from receiving any service from women, not even water to wash his hands.” After this he was led from the court, and fortyone witnesses, summoned to Holyrood, were examined. These were chiefly abbots, priests, and even serving-men of the order, but nothing of a criminal nature against it was elicited ; though during similar examinations at Lincoln, Brother Thomas Tocci de Thoroldby, a Templar, declared that he had heard the late Brim le Jay (Master of Scotland and afterwards of England) say a hundred times over, “ that Christ was not the true God, but a mere man, and that the smallest hair out of the beard of a Saracen was worth any Christian’s whole body ;a and that once, when he was standing in Sir Brian’s presence, certain beggars sought alms “for the love of God and our ,Blessed Lady,” on which he threw a halfpenny in the mud, and made them hunt for it, though in midwinter, saying, ‘‘ Go to your lady and be hanged !” Another Templar, Stephen de Stapelbrvgge, declared that Sir Brian ordered him at his admission to spit upon the cross, but he spat beside it. The first witness examined at Holyrood was Hugh Abbot of Dunfermline, who stated that he had ever viewed with suspicion the midnight chapters and “ clandestine admission of brethren.” E l k Lord Abbot of Holyrood, and Gervase Lord Abbot of Newbattle, were then examined, together with Master Robert of Kydlawe, and Patrick Prior of the Dominicans in tbe fields qear Edinburgh, and they agreed in all things with the Abbot of Dunfermline. The eighth witness, Adam of Wedale (now called Stow), a Cistercian, accused the Templars of selfishness and oppression of their neighbours, and John of Byres, a .monk of Newbattle, John of Mumphat and Gilbert of Haddington, two monks of Holyrood, entirely agreed with him ; while the rector of Ratho maintained that the Scottish Tqmplars were not free from the crimes imputed to the order, adding ‘‘ that he had never known when any Templar was buried or heard of one dying a natural death, and that the whole order was generally against the Holy Church.” The former points had evident reference to the rumour that the order burned their dead and drank the ashes in wine ! Henry de Leith Rector of Restalrig, Nicholas Vicar of Lasswade, John Chaplain of St. Leonard’s, and others, agreed in all things with the Abbot of Dunfermline, as did nine Scottish barons of rank who added that the knights were ungracious to the poor, practising hospitality alone to the great and wealthy, and then only under the impulse of fear ; and moreover, that had the Templars been good Christians they would never have lost the Holy Land.” The forty-first and last witness, John Thyng, who for seventeen years had been a serving brother of the order in Scotland, coincided with the others, ... THE SCOTTISH TEMPLARS. 51 ances of the order from the Master of England, who received them from the ...

Vol. 3  p. 51 (Rel. 1.44)

THE PALACE OF HOLYROOD HOUSE (33), THE SOUTH AND NORTH GARDENS (33), THE ABBEY KIRK (2) AND THE KIRKYARD (2) ... PALACE OF HOLYROOD HOUSE (33), THE SOUTH AND NORTH GARDENS (33), THE ABBEY KIRK (2) AND THE KIRKYARD ...

Vol. 3  p. 69 (Rel. 1.4)

1230 by King Alexander II., and in its earliest charters named Mansio Re@, as he had bestowed upon the monks a royal residence as their abode. The church built by Alexander was a large cruufsrm edifice with a central rood-tower and lofty spire. It was renowned for king the scene of the SIR JAMES PALSHAW, BART., AND H.m. LIEUTENANT OP EDINBURGH. (Fmm a Photograph ay 3~ha Meffat.) bishop of Glasgow and Lord High Chancellor, fled from the Douglases during the terrible street conflict or tulzie in 1519, and, as Pitscottie records, was dragged “ out behind the altar, and his rocki: riven aff him, and had been slake,” had not Gavin Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, interceded for him: in the realm, summoned in 1512 by the Pipal Legate, Cardinal Bagimont, who presided. In this synod, says Balfour, all ecclesiastical benefices exceeding forty pounds per annum were taxed in the payment of ten pounds to the Pope by way of pension, and to the King of Scotland such a tax as he felt disposed to levy. This valuation, which is still known by the name of Bagimont‘s Roll, was made thereafter the standard for taxing the Scottish ecclesiastics at the Vatican. It was to this church that James Beaton, Archcrate bishop.” And here we may remark that the Scottish word fulzie, used by us so often, is derived from the French t&ifi--n; to confuse, or to mix The monastery was destroyed by an accidental fire in 1528, but the church would seem to have been uninjured by the view of it in 1544, though no doubt it would suffer, like all the others in the city, at the hands of the English in that year. In 1552 the Provost and Council ordered Alex. Park, city treasurer, to deliver to “the Dene of Gild x li., that he may thairwith pay the Blak ... by King Alexander II., and in its earliest charters named Mansio Re@, as he had bestowed upon the monks a ...

Vol. 4  p. 285 (Rel. 1.38)

People don't play riddle games with Giants, or get tricked by Faerie Queens. They don't follow Blind Maniacs into Futures, or have their Lives saved by Death. Timothy Hunter in The Books of Faerie 54 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holymd under his great seal, granted to David, Abbot of Holyrood, a piece of land within the Castle of Edinburgh whereon to erect a house, to which the monks, their servants and families, might repair in time of peace and war. This piece of ground was eighty feet in length and eighty in breadth, wherever the abbot might choose, “beyond the site of our manor” (the royal lodging?); “the said abbot and his successors paying therefor to us and to our heirs a silver penny at the said castle on Whitsunday yearly, if asked only, so that the foresaid abbot and his successors and their servants shall be bound to take the oath of fidelity for the due security of the said castle to the keeper thereof, who may be for the time, have free ish and entry to the said castle at accustomed and proper hours.” On the 5th April, 1391, King Robert III., undei his great seal, granted a charter to the Abbey of Holyrood, confirming the charter of David 11. to the abbey, dated 30th December, 1343. It is dated at Edinburgh. When the abbey became a species of palace has never been distinctly ascertained, but Robert 111. appears sometimes to have made Holyrood his residence. James I. occasionally kept his court there; and in the abbey his queen was delivered of twin princes, on the 16th October, 14 I 6-Alexandeq who died, and James, afterwards second of that name. In 1428 a remarkable episode occurred in the abbey church. Alexander, Lord of the Isles, who had been in rebellion against James I., but had been utterly defeated by the royal troops in Lochaber, sent messengers to the king to sue for mercy. But the latter, justly incensed, refused to enter into .my negotiations with an outlawed fugitive. Alexander, driven to despair, and compelled to fly from place to place, was compelled at last to trust to the royal clemency. Travelling secretly to Edinburgh, he suddenly presented himself, upon a solemn festival, before the high altar 01 Holyrood, and holding his‘drawn sword by the point, he presented the hilt to the astonished king, in token of his unconditional submission, and falling on his knees, in presence of Queen Jane and the whole court, implored the royal mercy. The ill-fated James granted him his life, at the tender intercession of his royal consort, but sent him a prisoner to the sequestered castle of Tantallon, on its sea-beat Tock, under the charge of his nephew, the Earl of Angus. The island chief eventually received a free pardon, was restored to all his honours, castles, and estates, and stood as sponsor for the twin princes, Alexander and James, at the font . In 1437 the Parliament met at Edinburgh, on the 25th March, after the murder of James I., and adopted immediate measures for the government of the country. Their first act was the coronation of the young prince, in his sixth year, on whose head at Holyrood, as James II., the crown was solemnly placed by James Kennedy, Bishop of St. Andrews, in presence of a great concourse of the nobles, clergy, and representatives of towns, amid the usual testimonies of devotion and loyalty. On March 27th, 1439, Patrick Abbot of Holyrood and his convent granted a charter to Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig, and his heirs, of the ofice of bailie over their lands of St. Leonard’s, in the town of Leith, “from the end of the great volut of William Logane, on the east part of the common gate that passes to the ford over the water of Leith, beside the waste land near the house of John of Turyng on the west part, and common Venale called St. Leonard’s Wynd, as it extended of old on the south part, and the water of the port OF Leith on the north, and . . . . in the ninth year of the pontificate of our most holy father and lord, Eugenius IV., by Divine Providence Pope.” Chronologically, the next event connected with the abbey was the arrival of Mary of Gueldres in 1449. In company with John Railston, Bishop of Dunkeld, and Nicholas Otterburn, official of Lothian, the Lord Chancellor Crichton went to France to seek among the princesses of that friendly court a suitable bride for young James 11.; but no match being suitable, by the advice of Charles VII. these ambassadors proceeded to Burgundy, and, with the cordial concurrence of Duke Philip the Good, made proposals to his kinswoman, hlary, the only daughter and heiress of Arnold, Duke of Gueldres, and in 1449 the engagement was formally concluded. Philip promised to pay _f60,boo in gold as a dowry, while James, on the other hand, settled IO,OOO crowns upon her, secured on land in Strathearn, Athole, Methven, and East Lothian, while relinquishing all; claim to the Duchy of Gueldres, in the event of an heir male being born to Duke Arnold ; and the Parliament met at Stirling, resolved that the royal nuptials should be conducted on a scale of splendour suited to the occasion. The fleet containing the bride anchored in June in the Forth. She was “young, beautiful, and of a masculine constitution,” says Hawthornden, and came attended by a splendid train of knights and nobles from France and Burgundy, including tlie Archduke Sigisniund of Austria, the Duke of Brittany, and the Lord of Campvere (the three brothers-in-law of the King of Scotland), togetho ... don't play riddle games with Giants, or get tricked by Faerie Queens. They don't follow Blind ...

Vol. 3  p. 54 (Rel. 1.34)

78 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castle. entrance to the apartment in which her daughter was delivered of James VI, It was formerly part of a large room which, before being partitioned, measured 30 by 25 feet. On the I 1 th of February, 1567, after the murder of Darnley, Mary retired to this apartment, where she had the walls hung with black, and remained in strict seclusion until after the funeral. Killigrew, who came from Elizabeth with letters of condolence, on his introduction found (( tbe Queen’s Majesty in a dark chamber, so that he could not see her face, but by her words she seemed very doleful.” In 1849, an antique iron chisel, spear-shaped, was found in the fireplace of this apartment, which was long used as a canteen for the soldiers, but has now been renovated, though in a rude and inelegant form. Below the grand hall are a double tier of strongly-vaulted dungeons, entered by a passage from the west, and secured by an intricate arrangement, of iron gates and massive chains. In one of these Kirkaldy of Grange buried his brother David Melville. The small loophole that admits light into each of these huge vaults, whose origin is lost in the mists of antiquity, is strongly secured by three ranges of iron bars. Within these drear abodes have captives of all kinds pined, and latterly the French prisoners, forty of whom slept in each. In some are still the wooden frames to which their hammocks were slung. Under Queen Mary’s room there is one dungeon excavated out of the solid rock, and having, as we have said, an iron staple in its wall to which the prisoner was chained. The north side of the quadrangle consists now of an uninteresting block of barracks, erected about the middle of the eighteenth century, and altered, but scarcely improved, in 1860-2, by the Royal Engineers and Mr. Charles W. Billings. It occupies the site, and was built from the materials, of what was once a church of vast dimensions and unknown antiquity, but the great western gable of which was long ago a conspicuous feature above the eastern curtain wall. By Maitland it is described as ((a very long and large ancient church, which from its spacious dimensions I imagine that it was not only built for the use of the garrison, but for the service of the neighbouring hinabitants before St. Giles’s church was erected for their accommodation.” Its great font, and many beautifully carved stones were found built into the barrack wall during recent alterations. It is supposed to have been a church erected after the death of the pious Queen Margaret, and dedicated to her, as it is mentioned by David I. in his Holyrood charter as “the church of the Castle of Edinburgh,” and is again confirmed as such in the charter of Alexander 111. and several Papal bulls, and the ‘( paroche kirk within the said Castell,” is distinctly referred to by the Presbytery of Edinburgh in 1595.” In 1753 it was divided into three storeys, and filled with tents, cannon, and other munitions of war. A winding stair descends from the new barracks to the butts, where the rock is defended by the western wall and Bute’s Battery, near which, at an angle, a turret, named the Queen’s Post, occupies the site of St. Margaret’s Tower. Fifty feet below the level of the rock is another guardhouse and one of the draw-wells poisoned by the Englishin 1572. Kear it is the ancient posterngate, where Dundee held his parley with the Duke of Gordon in 1688, and through which, perhaps, St. Margaret’s body was borne in 1093. From thence there is a sudden ascent by steps, behind the banquette of the bastions and near the principal, magazine, to Mylne’s Mount, where there is another grate for a bale-fire to alarm Fife, Stirling, and the north. The fortifications are irregular, furnished throughout with strong stone turrets, and prepared for mounting about sixty pieces of cannon. Two door-lintels covered with curious sculptures are still preserved : one over the entrance to the ordnance office represents Mons Meg and other ancient cannon ; the other a cannoneer of the sixteenth century, in complete armour, in the act of loading a small culverin. The Castle farm is said to have been the ancient village of Broughton, which St. David granted to the monks of Holyrood ; the Castle gardens we have already referred to; and to the barns, stables, and lists attached to it, we shall have occasion to refer elsewhere. The Castle company was a corps of Scottish soldiers raised in January 1661, and formed a permanent part of the garrison till 1818, when, with the ancient band of Mary of Guise, which garrisoned the Castle of Stirling, they were incorporated in cne of the thirteen veteran battalions emjodied in that year. The Castle being within the abrogated parish of Holyrood, has a burial-place for its garrison in the Canongate churchyard ; but dead have been buried within the walls frequently during sieges and blockades, as in 1745, when nineteen soldiers and three women were interred on the summit of the rock. The Castle is capable of containing 3,000 infantry; but the accommodation for troops is greatly ; neglected by Government, and the barracks have Wodmw’s ‘ I Miscellany.” ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castle. entrance to the apartment in which her daughter was delivered of ...

Vol. 1  p. 78 (Rel. 1.3)

THE TOWER 327 Liberton.] between 1124 and 1153, according to the Lih Cartarvm Sanchz Crwis. Macbeth of Liberton also granted to St. Cuth bert’s Church the tithes and oblations of Legbor nard, a church which cannot now be traced. The name is supposed to be a corruption o Lepertoun, as there stood here a hospital fo lepers, of which all vestiges have disappeared ; bu the lands thereof in some old writs (according tc the “New Statistical Account”) were called “Spital town.” At Nether Liberton, three-quarters of a mile nortl of the church, was a mill, worked of course by thc Braid Burn, which David I, bestowed upon tht monks of Holyrood, as a tithe thereof, ‘‘wit1 thirty cartloads from the bush of Liberton,” gift! confirmed by William the Lion under the Grea Seal circa I I 7 1-7. The Black Friars at Edinburgh received fivc pounds sterling annually from this mill at Nethei Liberton, by a charter from King Robert I. Prior to the date of King David’s charter, thc church of Liberton belonged to St. Cuthbert’s The patronage of it, with an acre of land adjoining it, was bestowed by Sir John Maxwell of that iik in 1367, on the monastery of Kilwinning,pro sahh aniiiim SUE et Agnetis sponsiz SUE. This gift was confirmed by King David 11. By David 11. the lands of Over Liberton, ‘( quhilk Allan Baroune resigned,” were gifted tc John Wigham ; and by the same monarch the land: of Nether Liberton were gifted to William Ramsay, of Dalhousie, knight, and Agnes, his spouse, 24th October, 1369. At a later period he granted a charter “to David Libbertoun, of the office of sergandrie of the overward of the Constabularie of Edinburgh, with the lands of Over Libbertoun pertaining thereto.” (“ Robertson’s Index.”) Adam Forrester (ancestor of the Corstorphine family) was Laird of Nether Liberton in 1387, for estates changed proprietors quickly in those troublesome times, and we have already reterred to him as one of those who, with the Provost Andrew Yichtson, made arrangements for certain extensive additions to the church of St. Giles in that year. William of Liberton was provost of the city in 1429, and ten years subsequently with William Douglas of Hawthornden, Meclielson of Herdmanston (now Harviston), and others, he witnessed the charter of Patrick, abbot of Holyrood, to Sir Yatrick Logan, Lord. of Restalrig, of the office of bailie of St. Leonard’s. (“ Burgh Charters,” No. At Liberton there was standing till about 1840 a tall peel-house or tower, which was believed to XXVI.) have been the residence of Macbeth and other barons of Liberton, and which must not be confounded with the solitary square tower that stands to the westward of the road that leads into the heart of the Braid Hills, and is traditionally said to have been the abode of a troublesome robber laud, who waylaid provisions coming to the city markets. The former had an old dial-stone, inscribed ‘‘ God’s Providence is our Inheritance.” Near the present Liberton Tower the remains of a Celtic cross were found embedded in a wall in 1863, by the late James Drummond, R.S.A. It was covered with knot-work. The old church-or chapel it was more probably -at Kirk-Liberton, is supposed to have been dedicated to the Virgin Mary-there having been a holy spring near it, called our Lady’s Well-and it had attached to it a glebe of two oxgates of land. In the vicinity was a place called Kilmartin, which seemed to indicate the site of some ancient and now forgotten chapel. In.1240 the chapelry of Liberton was disjoined by David Benham, Bishop of St. Andrews and Great Chamberlain to the King, from the parish of St. Cuthbert’s, and constituted a rectory belonging to the Abbey of Holyrood, and from then till the Reformation it was served by a vicar. For a brief period subsequent to 1633, it was a prebend of the short-lived and most inglorious bishopric of Edinburgh ; and at the final abolition thereof it reverted to the disposal of the Crown. The parochial registers date from 1639. When the old church was demolished prior to :he erection of the new, in 1815, there was found very mysteriously embedded in its basement an ron medal of the thirteenth century, inscribed in xncient Russian characters “ THE GRAND PRINCE 3 ~ . ALEXANDER YAROSLAVITCH NEVSKOI.” The old church is said to have been a picuresque edifice not unlike that now at Corstor- Ihine ; the new one is a tolerably handsome semi- Gothic structure, designed by Gillespie Graham, ,eated for 1,430 persons, and having a square ower with four ornamental pinnacles, forming a )leasing and prominent object in the landscape outhward of the city. Subordinate to the church there were in Catholic imes three chapels-one built by James V. at 3rigend’ already referred to ; a second at Niddrie, ounded by Robert Wauchope of Niddrie, in 1389, .nd dedicated to “ Our .Lady,” but which is now inly commemorated by its burying-ground-which ontinues to be in use-and a few faint traces of ... TOWER 327 Liberton.] between 1124 and 1153, according to the Lih Cartarvm Sanchz Crwis. Macbeth of Liberton ...

Vol. 6  p. 327 (Rel. 1.3)

58 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [~dpUCd. proper exertions been made for their repair and preservation, particularly by the Bishop o€ Orkney, and ere it shrank to the proportions of a chapel. But even when the Reformation was in full progress the following entry appears in the accounts of the Lord High Treasurer, under date the 8th February, 1557-8 :-A36 “to David Melville, indweller in ,Leith, for ane pair of organs to the chapel in the palace of Holyroodhouse.” The remains of George Earl of Huntly, who was slain at the battle of Corrichie, when he was in rebellion against the Crown, were brought by sea to Edinburgh in 1562, and kept all winter unburied in the Abbey of Holyrood-most proba, bly in the church. Then an indictment for high treason was exhibited against him in the month of May following, “eftir that he was deid and departit frae this mortal lyfe,” and the corpse was laid before Parliament : in this instance showing the rancour of party and the absurdity of old feudal laws. It was somewhere about this time that the new royal vault was constructed in the south aisle ol the nave, and the remains of the kings and queens were removed from their ancient resting-place near the high altar. It is built against the ancient Norman doorway of the cloisters, which still remains externally, with its slender shafts and beautiful zigzag mouldings of the days of David I. “The cloisters,” says Wilson, ‘‘ appear to have enclosed a large court, formed in the angle of the nave and transept. The remains of the north are clearly traceable still, and the site of the west side is occupied by palace buildings. Here was the ambulatory for the old monks, when the magnificent foundation of St. David retained its pristine splendour, and remained probably till the burning of the abbey after the death of James V.2 who was buried there beside his first queen in December 1542, and his second son, Arthur Duke of Albany, a child eight days old, who died at Stirling. In the royal vault also lie the remains of David 11. ; Prince Arthur, third son of James IV., who died in the castle, July 15th, 1510, aged nine months ; Henry, Lord Darnley, murdered 1567 j and Jane, Countess of Argyle, who was at supper with her sister, the queen, on the night of Rizzio’s assassination. “ Dying without issue, she was enclosed in one of the richest coffins ever seen in Scotland, the compartments and inscriptions being all of solid gold.” In the same vault were de. posited the remains of the Duchess de Grammont, who died an exile at Holyrood in 1803 ; and, in the days of Queen Victoria, the remains of Mary of Gueldres, queen of James 11. ’ Among the altars in thechurchwere two dedicated to St. Andrew and St. Catharine, a third dedicated to St. Anne by the tailors of Edinburgh, and a fourth by the Cordiners to St. Crispin, whose statutes were placed upon it. On the 18th of June, 1567, two days after the imprisonment of Queen Mary, the Earl of Glencairn and others, “with a savage malignity, laid waste this beautiful chapel,” broke in pieces its most valuable furniture, and laid its statues and other ornaments in ruins. On the 18th of June, 1633, Charles I. was crowned with great pomp in the abbey church and amid the greatest demonstrations of loyalty, when the silver keys of the city were delivered to him by the Provost, after which they were never again presented to a monarch until the time of George IV. : but afterwards the religious services were performed at Holyrood with great splendour, according to the imposing ritual of the English Church-“ an innovation which the Presbyterians beheld with indignation, as an insolent violation of the laws of the land” In 1687 the congregation of the Canongate were removed from the church by order of James VII., and the abbey church-now named a chapelwas richly decorated, and twelve stalls were placed therein for the Knights of the Thistle. An old view of the interior by Wyck and Mazell, taken prior to the fall of the roof, represents it entire, with all its groining and beautiful imperial crowns and coronets on the drooping pendants of the interlaced arches. They show the clerestory entire, and within the nave the stalls of the knights, six on each side. Each of these stalls had five steps, and on each side a Corinthian column supported an entablature of the same order, each surmounted by two great banners and three trophies, each composed of helmets and breastplates, making in all twenty-four banners and thirty-six trophies over the stalls. At the eastern end was the throne, surmounted by an imperial crown. On each side were two panels, having the crown, sword, and sceptre within a wreath of laurel, and below, other two panels, with the royal cypher, J.R., and the crown. Wyck and Mazell show the throne placed upon a lofty dais of seven steps, on six of which were a unicorn and lion, making six of the former on the right, and six of the latter on the left, all crowned. Behind this rose a Corinthian canopy, entablature, and garlands, all of carved oak, and over all the royal arms as borne in Scotland ; the crest of Scotland, the lion sejant; on the right the ensign of St. Andrew; In defence on the left the ensign of St. George. Amid a star of spears, swords, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [~dpUCd. proper exertions been made for their repair and preservation, particularly by ...

Vol. 3  p. 58 (Rel. 1.29)

Holyrood.] SUCCESSION. OF ABBOTS. 47 between Randolph the famous’ Earl of Moray and Sir William Oliphant, in connection with the forfeited estate of William of Monte Alto. Another species of Parliament was held at Holyrood on the 10th of February, in the year 1333-4, when Edward 111. received the enforced homage of his creature Baliol. XVI. JOHN II., abbot, appears as a witness to three charters in 1338, granted to William of Livingston, William of Creighton, and Henry of Brade (Braid?). XVII. BARTHOLOMEW, abbot in 1342. XVIII. THOMAS, abbot, witnessed a charter to William Douglas of that ilk, Sir James of Sandilands, and the Lady Elenora Bruce, relict of Alexander Earl of Carrick, nephew of Robert I., of the lands of the West Calder. On the 8th of May, 1366, a council was held at Holyrood, at which the Scottish nobles treated with ridicule and contempt the pretensions of the kings of England, and sanctioned an assessment for the ransom of David II., taken prisoner at the battle of Durham. That monarch was buried before the high altar in 1371, and Edward 111. granted a safe conduct to certain persons proceeding to Flanders to provide for the tomb in which he was placed. XIX. JOHN III., abbot on the 11th of January, ~372. During his term of office, John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster, fourth son of Edward III., was hospitably entertained at Holyrood, when compelled to take flight from his enemies in England. XX. DAVID, abbot on the 18th of January, in the thirteenth year of Robert 11. The abbey was burned by the armyof Richard 11. whose army encamped at Restalrig; but it was soon after repaired. David is mentioned in a charter dated at Perth, 1384-5. XXI. JOHN (formerly Dean of Leith) was abbot on the 8th of May, 1386. His name occurs in several charters and other documents, and for the last time in the indenture or lease of the Canonmills to the city of Edinburgh, 12th September, 1423. In his time Henry IV. spared the monastery in gratitude for the kindness of the monks to his exiled father John of Gaunt. XXII. PATRICK, abbot 5th September, 1435. In his term of office James II., who had been born in the abbey, was crowned there in his sixth year, on the 25th March, 1436-7; and anothet high ceremony was performed in the same church when Mary of Gueldres was crowned -as Queen Consort in July, 1449. In the preceding year, John Bishop of Galloway elect became an inmate of the abbey, and was buried in the cloisters. XXIII. JAMES, abbot 26th April, 14~0. XXIV. ARCHIBALD CRAWFORD, abbot in 1457. He was son of Sir William‘ Crawford of Haining, and had previously been Prior of Holytood. In 1450 he was one of the commissioners who treated with the English at Coventry concerning a truce ; and again in 1474, concerning a marriage between James Duke of Rothesay and the Princess Cecile, second daughter of Edward IV. of England. He was Lord High Treasurer of Scotland in 1480. He died in 1483. On the abbey church (according to Crawford) his arms were carved niore than thirty times. “He added the buttresses on the walls of the north and south aisles, and probably built the rich doorway which opens into the north aisle.” Many finely executed coats armorial are found over the niches, among them Abbot Crawford’s frequently- fesse ermine, with a star of five points, in chief, surmounted by an abbot’s mitre resting on a pastoral staff. XXV. ROBERT BELLENDEN, abbot in 1486, when commissioner concerning a truce with England. He was still abbot in 1498, and his virtues are celebrated by his namesake, the archdean of Moray, canon of ROSS, and translator of Boece, who says ‘‘ he left the abbey, and died ane Chartour-monk.” In 1507 the Papal legate presented James IV., in the name of Pope Julius II., in the church, amid a brilliant crowd of nobles, with a purple crown adorned by golden lilies, and a sword of state studded with gems, which is still preserved in the Castle of Edinburgh. He also brought a bull, bestowing upon James the title of Defender of the Faith. Abbot Bellenden, in 1493, founded a chapel in North Leith, dedicated to St. Ninian, latterly degraded into a victual granary The causes moving the abbot to build this chapei, independent of the spiritual wants of the people, were manifold, as set forth in the charter of erection. The bridge connecting North and South Leith, over which he levied toll, was erected at the same time. XXVI. GEORGE CRICHTOUN, abbot in 1515, and Lord Privy Seal, was promoted to the see of Uunkeld in 1528. As we have recorded elsewhere, he was the founder of the Hospital of St. Thomas, near the Water Gate. An interesting relic of his abbacy exists at present in England. About the year 1750, when a grave was being dug in the chancel of St Stephen’s church, St. Albans, in Hertfordshire, there was found buried in the soil an ancient lectern bearing his name, and which is supposed to have been concealed there at some time during the Civil Wars. It is of cast brass, and handsonie in design, consisting of an eagle with expanded wings, supported by a shaft deco- The piers still remain. ... SUCCESSION. OF ABBOTS. 47 between Randolph the famous’ Earl of Moray and Sir William Oliphant, in ...

Vol. 3  p. 47 (Rel. 1.29)

‘‘ are decayit, and made some sheep-folds, and some sa ruinous that none dare enter into thame for fear of falling, especially Halyrud HOUS, althocht the Bishop of Sanct Androw’s, in time of Papistry, INTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL OF HOLYROOD HOUSE, 1687- (AflW Wyck a d p. Mad;.) abbacy in favour of his son before 1583, and died in 1593. He was interred near the third pillar from the south-east corner, on the south side of the church. up and repairt.” To this Bothwell answered that the churches referred to had been pillaged and ruined before his time, especially Holyrood I Church, “quhilk hath been thir tnintie yeris 1 bygane ruinous through decay of twa principal pillars, sa that none wer assurit under it,” and that two thousand pounds would not be sufficient for 24th February, 1581, and was a Lord of Session in 1593. In 1607 part of the abbey property, together with the monastery itself, ,vas converted into a temporal peerage for him and his heirs, by the title of Lord Holyroodhouse. John Lord Bothwell died without direct heirs male, and though the title shouldhave descended to his brother ... are decayit, and made some sheep-folds, and some sa ruinous that none dare enter into thame for fear of ...

Vol. 3  p. 49 (Rel. 1.21)

scott monument national art gallery holyrood palace national gallery st giles ... monument national art gallery holyrood palace national gallery st giles ...

Vol. 1  p. 1 (Rel. 1.2)

28 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Canongate. the days that were no more. ‘* No funeral hearse,” says Lockhart, “crept more leisurely than did his landau up the Canongate ; and not a queer, tottering gable but recalled to him some long-buried memory of splendour or bloodshed, which, by a few Most Noble Order of the Thistle, which he had now [relerected, could not meet in St. Andrews’ church (z.e., the cathedral in Fife}, being demolished in the Rebellion; and so it was necessary for them to have this church, and the Provost of Edinburgh SMOLLETT’S HOUSE, ST. JOHN’S STREET. words, he set before the hearer in the reality of life.” The Canongate church, a most unpicturesquelooking edifice, of nameless style, with a species of Doric porch, was built in 1688. The Abbey chwh of Holyrood had hitherto been the parish church of the Canongate, but in July, 1687, King James VII. wrote to the Privy Council, that the church of the Abbey ‘‘ was the chapel belonging to his palace of Holyrood, and that the knights of the was ordained to see the keys of it given to them. After a long silence,” says Fountainhall, “the Archbishop of Glasgow told that it was a mansal and patrimonial church of the bishopric of Edinburgh, and though the see was vacant, yet it belonged not to the Provost to deliver the keys.” Yet the congregation were ordered to seek accommodation in Lady Yester’s church till other could be found for them, and the Canongate ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Canongate. the days that were no more. ‘* No funeral hearse,” says Lockhart, ...

Vol. 3  p. 28 (Rel. 1.2)

76 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood. ~ ~~ ~~ ~ period, and in 1736- one of unusual brilliance was given in January, the Hon. Charles Hope (afterwards Muster Master-General for Scotland) being king, and the Hon. Lady Helen Hope queen. In the Gallery of the Kings a table was covered with 300 dishes en ambigzr, at which sat 150 ladies at a time . . . . illuminated with 400 wax candles. ‘!The plan laid out by the council of the Company was exactly followed with the their dark days had found refuge at St. Germains. He entered Holyrood under a salute from the castle, while the approaches were lined by the Hopetoun Fencibles and Windsor Foresters. He held a levCe next day at the palace, where he was soon after joined by his son, the Duc d’Angoul6me. The royal family remained several years at Holyrood, when they endeared themselves to all in Edinburgh, where their presence was deemed but greatest order and decency, and concluded without the least air of disturbance.” Yet brawls were apt to occur then and for long after, as swords were worn in Edinburgh till a later period than in England j and an advertisement in the Cowant for June, 1761, refers to a silver-mounted sword having been taken in mistake at an election of peers in that year at Holyrood. The ancient palace had once more royal inmates when, on the 6th of June, 1796, there landed at Leith, under a salute from the fort, H.R.H. the Comte d’Artois, Charles Philippe, the brother of Louis XVI., in exile, seeking a home under the roof of the royal race that had so often intermarried with his family, and which in a natural link of the old alliance that used to exist between Scotland and France. The count, with his sons the Duc d‘Angoul6me and the Duc de Bem, was a constant attender at the drills of the Edinburgh Volunteers, in the meadows or elsewhere, though he never got over a horror of the uniform they wore then-blue, faced with redwhich reminded him too sadly of the ferocious National Guard of France. , He always attended in his old French uniform, with the order of St. Ampoule on his left breast, just as we may see him in Kay’s Portraits. He was present at St. Anne’s Yard when, in 1797, the Shropshire Militia, under Lord Clive-the j ~ s t English regiment of militia that ever entered Scotland-was reviewed by Lord Adam Gordon, the commander-in-chief. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood. ~ ~~ ~~ ~ period, and in 1736- one of unusual brilliance was given in ...

Vol. 3  p. 76 (Rel. 1.19)

THE QUEEN MARY APARTMENTS, HOLYROOD PALACE. 1, Queen Mav; 2, Supper-room; 3, Bed-room; 4, Lord Darcley’s Room; 5, Private Staircase. ... QUEEN MARY APARTMENTS, HOLYROOD PALACE. 1, Queen Mav; 2, Supper-room; 3, Bed-room; 4, Lord Darcley’s Room; ...

Vol. 3  p. vi (Rel. 1.18)

60 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LHol~lrood. and intriguing apostbte as one of the greatest and best men of his time.” In the churchyard, now all turned into flowerbeds and garden ground, there long remained a , .few plain gravestones, the inscriptions on some of range is of a very singular nature to be in the vicinity of a populous city, being little else than an assemblage of hills, rocks, precipices, morasses, and lakes.” It includes Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Craigs, and, of course, as a refuge, originated in which are preserved by Menlteith in his “Theatre of Mortality,” and by Maitland in his C‘History.’l One alone remains now, that of Mylne (the builder of the palace), which was removed from its ald site (the north-east angle -of the ancient choir) in 1857, and placed against the eastern ,wall of the church. The extent of the ruin as it now remains is 127 feet in tlength by 39 feet in breadth, within the walls; and there .still exist nominally six deans .and seven chaplains of the Chapel Royal, all, of course, clergymen of the Church of .Scotland. The whole ruin has an air .of intense gloom and damp THE BELHAVEN MOAUMENT, HOLYROOD CHURCH. desolation ; the breeze waves the grass and rank weeds between the lettered grave-stones, the ivy rustles on the wall, and by night the owl hoots in the royal vault and the roofless tower where .stands the altar-tomb of Belhaven. For a considerable space around the church and palace of Holyrood-embracing a circuit of four miles and a quarter-the open ground has been, since the days of David I., a sanctuary, and is so mow, from arrest on civil process. This spacious the old ecclesiastical privilege of sanctuary, with the exemptions of those attached to a monarch’s court. When the law of debtor and creditor was more stringent than it is now, this peculiarity brought many far from respectable visitors to a cluster of houses round the palace-a cluster nearly entirely swept away about I 85 7-as varied in their appearance as the chequered fortunes of their bankrupt inmates j and it is believed to have been in a great measure owing to some private claims, likely to press heavily upon him, that Charles X. in his second exile sought a residence in deserted Holyrood. The House of Inchmurry, formerly called Kirkland, in the parish of St. Martin’s, was a country residence of the abbots of Holyrood. One of the bells that hung in the remaining tower was placed in the Tron church steeple, another in St. Cuthbert’s chapel of ease, and the third in St. Paul’s, York Place, the congregation of which had it in their former church in the Canongate, which was built 1771-4. This last is sniall, and poor in’ sound. CHAPTER IX. HOLYROOD PALACE. F i ~ t Notice of its History-Marriage of James 1V.-The Scots of the Days of Flodden-A Brawl in the Palace-Jams V.’s. Tower-The Gudeman of Ballengeich-His Marriage-Death of Queen MagdalentThe Council of November, 1-A Standing Army Proposed-The Muscovite Ambassadors Entertained by the Queen Regent, THE occasional residence of so many of his kingly ancestors at the abbey of Holyrood, and its then sequestered and rural locality, doubtless suggested to James IV. the expediency of having a royal dwelling near it ; thus, we find from the Records of the Privy Seal the earliest mention of a palace at Holyrood occurs on the 10th of September, 1504, when ‘( to Maister Leonard Log, for his gude and thankful service, done and to be done, to the kingis hienis, and speciallie for his diligent and grete laboure made be him in the building of the palace beside the Abbey of the Holy Croce,” of (( the soume of forty pounds.” This is the first genuine notice of the grand old Palace of Holyrood. In 1503 the then new edifice witnessed the marriage festival of James IV. and Mzgaret Tudor, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. LHol~lrood. and intriguing apostbte as one of the greatest and best men of his ...

Vol. 3  p. 60 (Rel. 1.13)

Coweate.1 VERNOUR’S from the two bridges named, it seems to cower in its gorge, a narrow and dusky river of quaint and black architecture, yet teeming with life, bustle, and animation. Its length from where the Cowgate Port stood to the foot of the Candlemaker Row is about 800 yards. . I t is difficult to imagine the time when it was probably a narrow country way, bordered by hedgerows, skirting the base of the slope whereon lay the churchyard of St. Giles’s, ere houses began to appear upon its lie, ,and it acquired its name, which is now proved to have been originally the Sou’gate, or South Street. One of the earliest buildings immediately adjacent to the Cowgate must have been the ancient chapel of the Holyrood, which stood in the nether kirkyard of St. Giles’s till the Reformation, when the materials of it were used in the construction of the New Tolbooth. Building here must have begun early in the 15th century. In 1428 John Vernour gave a land (i.e., a tenement) near the town of Edinburgh, on the south side thereof, in the street called Cowgate, to Richard Lundy, a monk of Melrose,‘ for twenty shillings yearly. He or his heirs were to have the refusal of it if it were sold. (“Monastic Ann,” Tevio tdale.) In 1440 William Vernour, according to the same authority, granted this tenement to Richard Lundy, then Abbot of Melrose, without reserve, for thirteen shillings and fourpence yearly; and in 1493, Patrick, Abbot of Holyrood, confirmed the monks of Melrose in possession of their land called the Holy Rood Acre between the common Vennel, and another acre which they had beside the highway near the Canongate, for six shillings and eightpence yearly. On the 31st May, 1498, James IV. granted to Sir. John Ramsay of Balmain (previously Lord Bothwell under James 111.) a tenement and orchard in the Cowgate. This property is referred to in a charter under the Great Seal, dated 19th October, 1488, to Robert Colville, director of the chancery, of lands in the Cowgate of Edinburgh, once the property of Sir James Liddell, knight, “et postea johannis Ramsay, oZim nunntpafi Domini BoifhveZe,” now in the king‘s hands by the forfeiture first of Sir James Liddell, and of tenements of John Ramsay. Many quaint timber-fronted houses existed in the Cowgate, as elsewhere in the city. Such mansions were in favour throughout Europe generally in the 15th century, and Edinburgh was only influenced by the then prevailing taste of which so many fine examples still remain in Nuremberg . TENEMENT. 239 and Chester ; and in Edinburgh open piazzas and galleries projecting from the actual ashlar or original front of the house were long the fashion-the former for the display of goods for sale, and the latter for lounging or promenading in; and here and there are still lingering in the Cowgate mansions, past which James 111. and IV. may have ridden, and whose occupants buckled on their mail to fight on Flodden Hill and in Pinkey Cleugh. Men of a rank superior to any of which modem Edinburgh can boast had their dwellings in the Cowgate, which rapidly became a fashionable and aristocratic quarter, being deemed open and airy. An old author who wrote in 1530, Alexander Alesse, and who was born in the city in 1500, tells us that “the nobility and chief senators of the city dwell in the Cowgate-via vaccarum in qud hrabifanf pdfriXi et senafores urbis,” and that U the palaces of the chief men of the nation are also there ; that none of the houses are mean or vulgar, but, on the contrary, all are magnificent-ubi nihJ Aunt& aui rusticum, sed omnia magzzjfca P Much of the street must have sprung into existence before the wall of James 11. was demolished, in which the High Street alone stood; and it was chiefly for the protection of this highly-esteemed suburb that the greater wall was erected after the battle of Flodden. A notarial instrument in 1509 cpncerning a tenement belonging to Christina Lamb on the south side near the Vennel (or wynd) from the Kirk of Field, describes it as partly enclosed with pales of wood fixed in the earth and having waste land adjoining it. In the division of the city into three quarters in I 5 I 2, the 6rst from the east side of Forester‘s Wynd, on both sides of the High Street, and under the wall to the Castle Hill, was to be held by Thomas Wardlaw. The second quarter, from the Tolbooth Stair, ‘‘ quhak Walter Young dwellis in the north part of the gaitt to the Lopley Stane,” to beunder the said Walter; and the third quarter from the latter stone to Forester‘s Wynd “in the sowth pairt of the gaitt, with part of the Cowgate, to be under George Dickson.” In 1518, concerning the “Dichting of the Calsay,” it was ordained by the magistrates, that all the inhabitants should clean the portion thereof before their own houses and booths “als weill in the Kowgaitt venellis as on the Hie Gaitt,” and that all tar barrels and wooden pipes be removed from the streets under pain of escheat. In 1547 and 1548 strict orders were issued with reference to the gwds at the city gates, and no man who was skilled in any kind of gunnery was to quit the tom ... VERNOUR’S from the two bridges named, it seems to cower in its gorge, a narrow and dusky river of ...

Vol. 4  p. 239 (Rel. 1.13)

lies directly at the south-eastern base of Arthur's Seat, and has long'been one of the daily postal districts of the city. Overhung by the green slopes and grey rocks ok Arthur's Seat, and shut out by its mountainous mass from every view of the crowded city at its further base in Duddingston, says a statist, writing in 1851, a spectator feels himself sequestered from the busy scenes which he knows to' be in his immediate vicinity, as he hears their distant hum upon the passing breezes by the Willow Brae on the east, or the gorge of the Windy Goule on the south; and he looks southward and west over a glorious panorama of beautiful villas, towering , ' From the style of the church and the structure of its arches, it is supposed to date from the epoch of the introduction of Saxon architecture. A semicircular arch of great beauty divides the choir from the chancel, and a Saxon doorway, with fantastic heads and zig-zag mbuldings, still remains in the southern face of the tower. The entrance-gate to its deep, grassy, and sequestered little buryingground, is still furnished with the antique chain and collar of durance, the terror of evildoers, named the jougs, and a time-worn Zouping-on-stone, for the use of old or obese horsemen. Some interesting tombs are to be found in the burying-ground ; among these are the marble obelisk castles, rich coppice, hill and valley, magnificent in semi-tint, in light and shadow, till the Pentlands, or the 1 on e 1 y Lam m er m u i r ranges, close the distance. The name of this hamlet and parish has been a vexed subject amongst antiquaries, but as a surname it is not unknown in Scotland : thus, among the missing charters of Robert Bruce, there is one to John Dudingstoun of the lands of Pitcorthie, in Fife; and among the gentlemen GATEWAY OF DUDDINGSTON CHURCH, SHOWING TIIE JOUCS AND LOUPING-ON-STONE. slain at Flodden in I 5 I 3 there was Stephen Duddingston of Kildinington, also in Fife. Besides, there is another place of the same name in Linlithgowshire, the patrimony of the Dundases. The ancient church, with a square tower at its western end, occupies a green and rocky peninsula that juts into the clear and calm blue loch. It is an edifice of great antiquity, and belonged of old to the Tyronensian Monks of Kelso, who possessed it, together with the lands of Eastern and Western Duddingston ; the chartulary of that abbey does not say from whom they acquired these possessions, but most probably it was from David I. Herbert, first abbot of Kelso, a man of great learning and talent, chamberiain of the kingdom under Alexander I. and David I., in 1128, granted the lands of Eastern and Western Duddingston to Reginald de Bosco for an annual rent of ten marks, to be paid by him and his heirs for ever. erected to the memory of Patrick Haldane of Gleneagles by his unfortunate grandson, whose fate is also recorded thereon; and that of James Browne, LLD., Advocate, the historian of the Highlands and Highland clans, in the tower of the church. In the register of assignations for the minister's stipends in the year 1574, presented in MS. by Bishop Keith to the Advocates' Library, Duddingston is said to have been a joint dependence with the Castle of Edinburgh upon the Abbey of Holyrood. The old records of the Kirk Session are only of the year 1631, and in the preceding year the lands of Prestonfield were disjoined from the kirk and parish of St. Cuthbert, and annexed to those of Duddingston. On the r8th'of May, 1631, an aisle was added to the church for the use of the Laird of Prestonfield, his tenants and servants. David Malcolme, minister here before I 741, was an eminent linguist in his time, whose writings were commended by Pinkerton, and quoted with respect by Gebelin in his Monde Plillit$ and Bullet in his Mkmoirrs Celtiques; but the church is chiefly famous for the incumbency of the Rev. John Thomson, a highly distinguished landscape painter, who from his early boyhood exhibited a strong predilection for art, and after being a pupil of Alexander Nasmyth, became an honorary member of the Royal Scottish Academy. He became ... directly at the south-eastern base of Arthur's Seat, and has long'been one of the daily ...

Vol. 4  p. 314 (Rel. 1.12)

CHobd. - OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. - 52 - set at liberty ; but on the suppression of the order throughout Scotland, their vast possessions were given to their rivals, the Knights of St. John at Torphichen. In 1337, about the time that John 11. was abbot, sanctuary was given in Holyrood church to a remarkable fugitive from the Castle of Edinburgh, which at that time was held by an English garrison under Thomas Knyton. In one of the forays made by him in search of supplies, he had been guided adding, “that many brethren of the Temple, being . common people, indifferently absolve excornrnunicated persons, saying that they derived power from their lord the Supreme Pontiff;” and also, ‘‘ that the chapters were held so secretly that none save a Templar ever had access to them.” So ended the inquisition at Holyrood, ((which could not be made more solemn on account of the weapon that lay near, and so severe was the How that his blood bespattered the floor. He affected to bear with this new outrage, and nursing his wrath, quitted the fortress; but next day, when Thomas Knyton rode through the gate into the city with a few attendants, Prendergast rushed from a place of concealment-probably a Close head-and passing a long sword through his heart, dashed him a corpse on the causeway. He then leaped on Knyton’s horse, and spurring to a rich booty near Calder Muir by a soldier named Robert Prendergast, an adherent of Baliol, who served under the English banner. Upon returning to the castle, instead of being rewarded, as he expected, the Scottish traitor, at dinner in the hall, was placed among the servingmen and below the salt. Filled with rage and mortification, he remained ~. . GROUND PIAN OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL OF HOLYROOD HOUSE. (From air Engraving irr thx History ofthe A&y,guSlirhed h 1821.) A, Gmt West Entrance; 6, North Door; C C, Doon from South Aisle to Clo‘sters. now walled up; D, Great East Window; E, Stair tm Rood-loft ; F, Door to the Palace, shut up ; G. Remaining Pillars, north side: H, Screen-work in Stone. ... - OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. - 52 - set at liberty ; but on the suppression of the order throughout Scotland, ...

Vol. 3  p. 52 (Rel. 1.11)

TALLY-STICK, BEARING DATE OF 1692. discovery was made in one of our churches. Some years ago a chest, without any address, but of enormous weight, was removed from the Old Weigh House at Leith, and lodged in the outer aisle of the old church (a portion of St. Giles’s). This box had lain for upwards of thirty years at Leith, and several years in Edinburgh, without a clainiznt, and, what is still more extraordinary, without any one ever having had the curiosity to examine it. On Tuesday, however, some gentlemen connected with the town caused the mysterious box to be opened, and, to their surprise and gratification, they found it contained a the power which the chamberlain had of regulating matters in his Court of the Four Burghs respecting the common welfare was transferred to the general Convention of Royal Burghs. This Court was constituted in the reign of James III., and appointed to be held yearly at Inverkeithing. By a statute of James VI., the Convention was appointed to meet four times in each year, wherever the members chose; and to avoid confusion, only one was to appear for each burgh, except the capital, which was to have two. By a subsequent statute, a majority of the burghs, came, by whom it was made, or to whom it belongs, this cannot remain long a secret. We trust, however, that it will remain as an ornament in some public place in this city.” More concerning it was never known, and ultimately it was placed in its present position, without its being publicly acknowledged to be a representation of the unfortunate prince. In this Council chamber there meets yearly that little Scottish Parliament, the ancient Convention of Royal Burghs. Their foundation in Scotland is as old, if not older, than the days of David I., who, in his charter to the monks of Holyrood, describes Edinburgh as a burgh holding of the king, paying him certain revenues, beautiful statute of his majesty (?), about the size of life, cast in bronze. . . . . Although it is at present unknown from whence this admirable piece of workmanship ‘and having the privilege of free markets. The judgments of the ( F Y O ~ Scoftish ~ntiq7rurirm -w7’scunr.) magistrates of burghs were liable TALLY-STICK, BEARING DATE OF 1692. to the review of the Lord Great Chamberlain of Scotland (the first of whom was Herbert, in IIZS), and his Court of the Four Burghs. He kept the accounts of the royal revenue and expenses, and held his circuits or chamberlainayres, for the better regulation of all towns. But even his decrees were liable to revision by the Court of the Four Burghs, composed of certain burgesses of Edinburgh, Stirling, Roxburgh, and Berwick, who met ahiiually, at Haddington. to decide, as a court of last resort, the appeals from the chamberlain-ayres, and determine upon all matters affecting the welfare of the royal burghs. Upon the suppression of the office of chamberlain (the last of whom was Charles Duke of Lennox, in 1685), the power of controlling magistrates’ accounts was vested in the Exchequer, and the reviewd of their sentences in the courts of law ; while . . or the capital with any other six, were empowered to call a Convention as often as they deemed it necessary, and all the other burghs were obliged to attend it under a. penalty. The Convention, consisting of two deputies from each burgh, now meets ancually at Edinburgh in the Council Chzmber, and it is somewhat singular that the Lord Provost, although only a meniber, is the perpetuai president, and the city clerks are clerks to the Convention, during the sittings of which the magistrates are supposed to keep open table for the members. The powers of this Convention chiefly respect the establishment of regulations concerning the trade and commerce of Scotland ; and with this end it has renewed, from time to time, articles of staple contract with the town of Campvere, in Holland, of old the seat of the conservator of Scottish privileges. As the royal burghs pay a sixth part of the sum imposed as a land-tax upon the counties in Scotland, the Convention is empowered to consider the state of trade, and the revenues of individual burghs, and to assess their respective portions The Convention has also been iii use to examine the administrative conduct of magistrates in the matter of burgh revenue (though this comes more properly under the Court of Exchequer), and to give sanction upon particular occasions to the Common Council of burghs to alienate a part of the burgh estate. The Convention likewise considers and arranges the political seffs or constitutions of the different burghs, and regulates matters concerning elections that may be brought before it. Before the use of the Council Chamber was assigned to the Convention it was wont to meet in an aisle of St. Giles’s church. Writers’ Court-so named from the circumstance of the Signet Library being once there-adjoins the Royal Exchange, and a gloomy little cuZ de sac it ... BEARING DATE OF 1692. discovery was made in one of our churches. Some years ago a chest, without ...

Vol. 1  p. 186 (Rel. 1.1)

natural death-all the rest having lost their lives in defence of their country. If we turn to Holyrood, what visions and memories must arise of Knoq standing grim and stem before his queen, in his black Geneva cloak, with his hands planted on the horn handle of his long walking-cane, daringly rebuking her love of music and dancing-unbending, unyieldmg, and unmelted, by her exalted rank, her beauty, or her bitter tears j and of that terrible night in the Tower of James V., when sickly Ruthven, looking pale as a spectre under the open visor of his helmet, drew back with gauntleted hand the ancient arras as the assassins stole up the secret stair,-and then Rizzio, clinging wildly to the queen’s skirt, and dying beneath her eyes of many a mortal wound, with Darnley’s dagger planted in his body; of Charles Edward, in the prime of his youth and comeliness, already seeing the crown of the Stuarts upon his exiled father‘s head, surrounded by exultant Jacobite ladies, with white cockades on their bosoms, and dancing in the long gallery of the kings to the sound of the same pipes that blew the onset at Falkirk and Culloden ! A very few years later, and Boswell, ‘and Dr. Johnson in his brown suit with steel buttons, might have been seen coming arm-in-arm from the White Horse Hostel in Boyd’s Close-the burly lexicographer, as his obsequious follower tells us, grumbling and stumbling in the dark, as they proceeded on their way to the abode of the latter in James’s Court; but his visit to Scotland compelled the pedant, who trembled at the Cock Lane ghost and yet laughed at the idea of an earthquake in Lisbon, to have, as Macaulay says, a salutary suspicion of his own deficiencies, which skems on that occasion to have crossed his mind for the first time.” In yonder house, in Dunbar’s Close, the Ironsides of Cromwell had their guard-house ; and on the adjacent bartizan, that commanded a view of all the fields and farms to the north, in the autumn evenings of 1650~ the Protector often sat with Mathew Tiomlinson, Monk, and Ireton, each smoking their yards of clay and drinking Scottish . ale, or claret, and expounding, it might be, texts of Scripture, while their batteries at the Lang-gate ’ and Heriot’s Hospital threw shot and shell at the Castle, then feebly defended by the treacherous Dundas, from whom the Protector‘s gold won what, he himself admitted, steel and shot might never have done, the fortress never before being so strong as it was then, with all its stores and garrison. And in, that wynd, to which, in perishing, he gave his name, we shall see the sturdy craftsman Halkerston fighting to the death, with his two-handed sword, against the English invaders. Turn which way we hay in Edinburgh, that stirring past attends us, and every old stone is a record of the days, the years, and the people, who have passed away. In a cellar not far distant the Treaty of Union was partly signed, in haste and fear and trembling, while the street without rang with the yells and opprobrious cries of the infuriated mob ; and after that event, by the general desertion of the nobility, came what has been emphatically called the Dark Age of Edinburgh-that dull and heartless period when grass was seen to grow around the market-, cross, when a strange and unnatural stillness-the stillness of village life-seemed to settle over every one and everything, when the author of “ Douglas ” was put under ban for daring to write that tragedy, and when men made their last will and testament before setting out by the stage for London, and when such advertisements appeared as that which we find in the EdinbuTh Coirranf for 7th March, 1761 -“A young lady who is about to set out fqr London in a postchaise will be glad of a companion. Enquire at the publisher of this paper ; ” -when Edinburgh was so secluded and had such little intercourse with London, that on one occasion the mail brought but a single letter (for the British Linen Company), and the dullness of local life received a fillip only when Admiral de Fourbin was off the coast of Fife, or the presence of Thurot the corsair, or of Paul Jones, brought back some of the old Scottish spirit of the past. The stately oaks of the Burghmuir, under which Guy of Namuis Flemish lances fled in ruin and defeat before the Scots of Douglas and Dalhousie, have long since passed away, and handsome modem villas cover all the land to the base of the bordering hills; but the old battle stone, in which our kings planted their standards, and which marked the Campus Martius of the Scottish hosts, still lingers there on the south; and the once lonely Figgatemuir on the east, where the monks of Holyrood grazed their flocks and herds, and where Wallace mustered his warriors prior to the storming of Dunbar, is now a pleasant little watering place, which somewhat vainly boasts itself ‘‘ the Scottish Brighton.” The remarkable appearance and construction of old Edinburgh-towering skyward, storey upon storey, with all its black and bulky chimneys, crowstepped gables, and outside stairs-arise from the circumstance of its having been twice walled, and the necessity for residing within these barriers, for protection in times of foreign or domestic war. Thus, what Victor Hug0 says of the Paris of Philip ’ ... death-all the rest having lost their lives in defence of their country. If we turn to Holyrood, what ...

Vol. 1  p. 6 (Rel. 1.09)

Corstorphine.] CORSTORPHINE CHURCH. 115 was no side road into which he could have disappeared. He returned home perplexed by the oddness of the circumstance, when the first thing he learned was, that during his absence this friend had been killed by his horse falling in the Candlemakers Row.’’ The church of Corstorphine is one of the most interesting old edifices in the Lothians. It has been generally supposed, says a writer, that Scotland, while possessed of great and grand remains of Gothic architecture, is deficient in those antique rural village churches, whose square towers and ivied buttresses so harmonise with the soft landscape scenery of England, and that their place is too often occupied by the hideous barn-like structure of times subsequent to the Reformation. But among the retiring niinor beauties of Gothic architecture in Scotland, one of the principal is the picturesque little church of Corstorphine. It is a plain edifice of mixed date, says Billings in his ‘‘ Antiquities,” the period of the Decorated Gothic predominating. It is in the form of a cross, with an additional transept on one of the sides; but some irregularities in the height and character of the different parts make them seem asif they were irregularly clustered together without design. A portion of the roof is still covered with old-&ey flagstone. A small square belfry-tower at the west end is surmounted by a short octagonal spire, the ornate string’ mouldings on which suggest an idea of the papal tiara As the church of the parish, it is kept in tolerably decent order, and it is truly amazing how it escaped the destructive fury of the Reformers. This edifice was not the original parish church, which stood near it, but a separate establishment, founded and richly endowed by the pious enthusiasm of the ancient family whose tombs it contains, and whose once great castle adjoined it. Notices have been found of a chapel attached to the manor of Corstorphine, but subordinate to the church of St. Cuthbert, so far back as 1128, and this chapel became the old parish church referred to. Thus, in the Holyrood charter of King DavidI., 1143-7, he grants to the monks there the two chapels which pertain to the church of St. Cuthbert, ‘‘ to wit, Crostorfin, with two oxgates and six acres of land, and the chapel of Libertun with two oxgates of land.” In the immediate vicinity of that very ancient chapel there was founded ancther chapel towards the end of the fourteenth century, by Sir Adam Forrester of Corstorphine; and that edifice is sup posed to form a portion of the present existing church, because after its erection no mention whatever has been found of the second chapel as a separate edifice. .The building with which we have now to do was founded in 1429, as an inscription on the wall of the chancel, and other authorities, testify, by Sir John Forrester of Corstorphine, Lord High Chamberlain of Scotland in 1425, and dedicated to St. John the Baptist, for a provost, five prebendaries, and two singing boys. It was a collegiate church, to which belonged those of Corstorphine, Dalmahoy, Hatton, Cramond, Colinton, &c. The tiends of Ratho, and half of those of Adderton and Upper Gogar, were appropriated to the revenues of this college. “Sir John consigned the annual rents of one hundred and twenty ducats in gold to the church,” says the author of the “New Statistical Account,” “on condition that he and his successors should have the patronage of the appointments, and on the understanding that if the kirk of Ratho were united to the provostry, other four or five prebendaries should be added to the establishment, and maintained out of the fruits of the benefice of Ratho. Pope Eugenius IV. sanctioned this foundation by a bull, in which he directed the Abbot of Holyroodhouse, a$ his Apostolic Vicar, to ascertain whether the foundation and consignation had been made in terms of the original grant, and on being satisfied on these points, to unite and incorporate the church of Ratho with its rights, emoluments, and pertinents to the college for ever.” The first provost of this establishment was Nicholas Bannatyne, who died there in 1470, and was buried in the church, where his epitaph still remains. When Dunbar wrote his beautiful ‘ I Lament for the Makaris,” he embalmed among the last Scottish poets of his time, as taken by Death, “ the gentle Roull of Corstorphine,” one of the first provosts of the church- ‘( He has tane Rod1 of Aberdeen, A d gentle Rod1 of Corstorphine ; Twa better fellows did nae man see : Timor mortis conturbat me.” There was, says the “ The Book of Bon Accord,” a Thomas Roull, who was Provost of Aberdeen in 1416, and it is conjectured that the baid was of the same family ; but whatever the works of the latter were, nothing is known of him now, save his name, as recorded by Dunbar. In the year 1475, Hugh Bar, a burgess of Edinburgh, founded an additional chaplaincy in this then much-favoured church. “ The chaplain, in addition to the performance of daily masses for the souls of the king andqueen, the lords of the ... CORSTORPHINE CHURCH. 115 was no side road into which he could have disappeared. He returned home ...

Vol. 5  p. 115 (Rel. 1.04)

326 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Libertou. extended from east to west over all the country. This inequality in the surface .contributes much to the ornament of the view, by the agreeable relief which the eye ever meets with in the change of objects ; while the universal declivity, which prevails more or less in every field, is favourable to the culture of the lands, by allowing a ready descent to the water which falls from the heavens.” (Agricultural Survey of Midlothian.) Situated in a hollow of the landscape, on the Colinton slope of the Pentlands, is Bonally, with the Vale of the Leith, and enters the parish here, on the west side by a lofty aqueduct bridge of eight arches, and passes along it for two and a half miles. Near Slateford is Graysmill, where Prince Charles took up his headquarters in 1745, and met the deputies sent there from the city to arrange about its capitulation, and where ensued those deliberations which Lochiel cut short by entering the High Street at the head of go0 claymores. Proceeding eastward, we enter the parish of Liberton, one of the richest and most beautiful in its ponds, 482 feet above the tower, added to a smaller house, and commanding a pass among the hills, was finished in 1845 by Lord Cockburn, who resided there for many years. There are several copious and excellent springs on the lands of Swanston, Dreghorn, and Comistun, from which, prior to the establishment of the Water Company in 1819, to introduce the Cramley water, the inhabitants of Edinburgh chiefly procured that necessary of life. At Corniston are- the remains of an extensive camp ofpre-historic times. Adjacent to it, at Fairmilehead, tradition records that a great battle has been fought ; two large cairns were erected there, and when these were removed to serve for road metal, great quantities of human bones were found sea-level. A peel i all the fertile Lothians. Its surface is exquisitely diversified by broad low ridges, gently rising swells and intermediate plains, nowhere obtaining a sufficient elevation to be called a hill, save in the instances of Blackford and the Braid range. “As to relative position,” says a writer, ‘‘ the parish lies in the very core of the rich hanging plain or northerly exposed lands of Midlothian, ahd commands from its heights prospects the most sumptuous of the urban landscape and romantic hills of the metropolis, the dark farm and waving outline of the Pentlands and their spurs, the minutely-featured scenery of the Lothians, the Firth of Forth, the clear coast line, the white-washed towns and distant hills of Fife, and the bold blue sky-line of mountain The parish itself has a thoul€IE BATTLE OR CAMUB STONE, COMISTON. ranges away in far perspective. in and under them. Near \$here they stood there still remains a relic of the fight, a great whinstone block, about 20 feet high, known as the Kelstain, or Battle Stone, and also as Cuvw Stage, from the name of a Danish commander. Corniston House, in this quarter, was built by Sir James Forrest in 1815. The Hunter’s Tryst, near this, is a well-known and favourite resort of the citizens of Edinburgh in summer expeditions, and was frequently the headquarters of the Six Foot Club. Slateford, a village of Colinton parish, is two and a half miles from the west end of Princes Street. It has. a ‘United Secession place of worship, dating from 1784, and is noted as the scene of the early pastoral labours of the Rev. Dr. John Dick The Union Canal is carried across . sand attractions, and is dressed out in neatness of enclosures, profusion of garden-grounds, opulence of cultivation, elegance or tidiness of. mansion, village, and cottage, and busy stir and enterprise, which indicate full consciousness of the immediate vicinity of the proudest metropolis in Europe.” One of the highest ridges in the parish is crowned by the church, which occupies the exact site of a more ancient fane, of which we have the first authentic notice in the King’s charter to the monks of Holyrood, circa 1143-7, when he grants them ‘‘ that chapel of Liberton, with two oxgates of land, with all the tithes and rights, etc.,” which had been made to it by Macbeth-not the usurper, as Arnot erroneously supnoses, but the Macbeth, or Macbether, Baron of Liberton, whose name occurs as witness to several royal charters of David I. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Libertou. extended from east to west over all the country. This inequality in the ...

Vol. 6  p. 326 (Rel. 1.04)

-48 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. WolJlmd mted with several mouldings, partly circular and partly hexagonal. The eagle stands upon a globe, and the shaft has been originally supported on three feet, which are now gone. The lectern at present is five feet seven inches in height, and is inscribed :-“GEORGIUS CREICHTOUN, EPISCOPUS DUNKENENSIS.” He died on January 24th, 1543, and the probability is that the lectern had been presented to Holyrood on his elevation to Dunkeld as a farewell ’ 1523. He had been previously provost of the collegiate church of Corqtorphine, and was twice High Treasurer, in 1529 and 1537. In 1538 he was elected Bishop of KOSS, and held that office, together with the Abbacy of Ferne, till his death, jrst November, 1545. XXIX ROBERT STUART, of Strathdon, a son.of James V. by Eupham Elphinstone, had a grant of the abbacy when only seven years of age, and in manhood he joiiied the Reformation party, in 1559. THE ABBEY CHURCH. (From an Engravitigin Maitlads “History of Edinbaq-4.”) gift, and that it had been stolen from the abbey by Sir Richard Lea of Sopwell, who accompanied the Earl of Hertford in the invasion of 1544, and who carried off the famous brazen font from Holy- TOO^, and presented it to the parish church of St. Albans, with a magniloquent inscription. ‘‘ This font, which was abstracted from Holyrood, is no longer known to exist, and there seems no reason to doubt that the lectern, which was saved by being buried during the Civil Wars, was abstracted at the same time, and given to the church of St. hlbans by the donor of the font.’’ XXVII. WILLIAM DOUGLAS, Prior of Coldingham, was the next abbot. XXVIII. ROBERT CAIRNCROSS,abbot September He died in r5z8. He married in 1561, and received from his sister, Queen Mary, a gift of some Crown lands in Orkney and Shetland in 1565, with a large grant out of the queen’s third of Holyrood in the following year. In 1569 he exchanged his abbacy with Adam Bishop of Orkney for the temporalities of that see, and his lands in Orkney and Shetland were erected into an earldom in his favour 28th October, 1581. XXX. ADAM BOTHWELL, who acquired the abbacy in commendam by this strange and lawless compact, did not find his position a very quiet one, and several articles against him were presented in the General Assembly in 1570. The fifth of these stated that all the twenty-seven churches of the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. WolJlmd mted with several mouldings, partly circular and partly hexagonal. The eagle ...

Vol. 3  p. 48 (Rel. 1.03)

Restalrig.] ST. MARGARET’S WELL. 129 By the south side of what was once an old forest path when the oaks of Drumsheugh were in all their glory, there stood St. Margaret’s Well, the entire edifice of which was removed to the Royal Park, near Holyrood ; but the pure spring, deemed so holy as to be the object of pilgrimages in the days of old, still oozes into the fetid marsh close by. It was no doubt the source of supply to the ancient ecclesiastics of the village, and the path alluded to had become in after times a means of The structure-for elsewhere it still remains intact -is octagonal, and entered by a pointed Gothic doorway, and rises to the height of 4 ft. 6 in. It is of plain ashlar work, with a stone ledge or seat running round seven of the sides. From the centre of the water, which fills the entire floor of the building, rises a decorated pillar to the same height as the walls, with grotesque gargoyles, from which the liquid flows. Above this springs a richly groined roof, “ presenting, with the ribs that rise RESTALRIG. communication between the church there and the Abbey of Holyrood. No authentic traces can be found of the history of this consecrated fountain ; “ but from its name,” says Billings, ‘‘ it appears to have been dedicated to the Scottish queen and saint, Margaret, wife of Malcolm 111.” In the legend which we have already referred to in our account of Holyrood, which represents David I. as being miraculously preserved from the infuriated white hart, Bellenden records that it “fled away with gret violence, and evanist in the same place quhere now springs the Rude Well.” From its vicinity to the abbey, St. Margaret‘s has been conjectured to be the well referred to. 113 from the corresponding corbels at each of the eight angles of the building, a singularly rich effect when illuminated by the reflected light from the water below.” When this most picturesque fountain stood in an unchanged condition by the side of the old winding path to Restalrig, an ancient elder-tree, With furrowed and gnarled branches, covered all its grassgrown top, and a tiny but aged thatched cottage stood in front of it. Then, too, a mossy bank, rising out of pleasant meadow land, protected the little pillared cell; but the inexorable march of modem improvement came, the old tree and the rustic cottage were swept away, and the well itselfwas buried under (See Vol. II., page 311.) . a hideous station of the North British Railway. ... ST. MARGARET’S WELL. 129 By the south side of what was once an old forest path when the oaks of ...

Vol. 5  p. 129 (Rel. 1.02)

Portobello.] THE FIGGATE MUIR ‘43 to the line of the turnpike road. The whole surface of the district round them is studded with buildings, and has only so far subsided from the urban character as to acquire for these, whether villa or cottage, the graceful accompaninients of garden or hedge-row. “A stroll from the beautified city to Piershill,” says a writer, “when the musical bands of the barracks are striving to drown the soft and carolling melodies of the little songsters on the hedges and trees at the subsession ot Arthur’s Seat, and when’ the blue Firth, with its many-tinted canopy of clouds, and its picturesque display of islets and steamers, and little smiling boats on its waters, vies with the luxuriant lands upon its shore to win the award due to beauty, is indescribably delightful.” C H A P T E R X I V . PORTOBELLO. Portolxll~The Site before the Houses-The Figgate Muir-Stone Coffins-A Meeting with Cromwell-A Curious Raae--Portobello Hut- Robbqrs-Willkq Jamieson’s Feuing-Sir W. Scott and “The Lay “-Portobello Tower-Review of Yeomanry and H i g h d e w Hugh Miller-David Laing-Joppa-Magdalene Bridge-Brunstane House. PORTOBELLO, now a Parliamentary burgh, and favourite bathing quarter of the citizens, occupies a locality known for ages as the Figgate Muir, a once desolate expanse of muir-land, which perhaps was a portion of the forest of Drumsheugh, but which latterly was covered With whins and furze, bordered by a broad sandy beach, and extending from Magdalene Bridge on the south perhaps to where Seafield now lies, on the north-west. Through this waste flowed the Figgate Bum out of Duddingston Loch, a continuation of the Braid. Figgate is said to be a corruption of the Saxon word for a cow’s-ditch, and here ‘the monks of Holyrood were wont to pasture their cattle. Traces of early inhabitants were found here in 1821, when three stone cofiins’were discovered under a tumulus of sand, midway between Portobello and Craigantinnie. These were rudely put together, and each contained a human skeleton. ‘‘ The bones were quite entire,’’ says the Week& JournnZ for that year, “and from their position it would appear that the bodies had been buried with their legs across. At the head of each was deposited a number of flints, from which it is conjectured the inhumation had taken place before the use of metal in this country; and, what is very remarkable, the roots of some shrubs had penetrated the coffins and skulls of the skeletons, about which and the ribs they had curiously twisted themselves. The cavities of the skeletons indeed were quite filled with vegetable matter.” It was on the Figgate Muir that, during the War of Independence, Sir William Wallace in 1296 mustered his zoo patriots to join Robert Lauder and Crystal Seton at Musselblirgh for the pursuit of the traitor Earl of Dunbar, whom they fought at Inverwick, afterwards taking his castle at Dunbar. In the Register of the Privy Council, January, 1584, in a bond of caution for David Preston of Craigmillar, Robert Pacok in Brigend, Thomas Pacok in Cameron, and others, are named as sureties that John Hutchison, mirchant and burgess of Edinburgh, shall be left peaceably in possession of the lands ‘‘ callit Kingis medow, besyde the said burgh, and of that pairt thairof nixt adjacent to the bume callit the Figott Burne, on the north side of the same, being a proper pairt and pertinent of the saidis landis of Kingis Medow.” Among the witnesses is George Ramsay, Dean of Restalrig. We next hear of this locality in 1650, when it was supposed to be the scene of a secret meeting, ‘‘ half way between Leith and Musselburgh Rocks, at low water,” between Oliver Cromwell and the Scottish leaders, each attended by a hundred horse, when any question the latter proposed to ask he agreed to answer, but declined to admit alike of animadversion or reply. A part of this alleged conference is said to have been- “ Why did you put the king to death ? ‘‘ Because he was a tyrant, and deserved death.” “ Why did you dissolve the Parliament ? I’ ‘“ Because they .were greater tyrants than the king, and required dissolution.” The Mercurius CaZtdoonius of 1661 records a very different scene here, under the name of the Thicket Burn, when a foot-race was run from thence to the summit of Arthur’s Seat by twelve browster-wives, “all of them in a condition which makes violent exertion unsuitable to the female form.” The prizes on this occasiofi were, for the first, a hundredweight of cheese and “a budge11 of Dunkeld aquavite, andarumpkin of Brunswick rum for the second, set down by the Dutch midwife. The next day six ... THE FIGGATE MUIR ‘43 to the line of the turnpike road. The whole surface of the district round ...

Vol. 5  p. 143 (Rel. 1.02)

338 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Inch. CHAPTER XL. THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued). The Inch Honse-The Winrams-Ednonstone and the Edmonstones of that Ilk-WitcheesW @Itnet-The StenhoustMoredun-The Stewarts of Goodtree-The Ruckstane-Burdiehouse-Its Limekilns and Fossils A LITTLE way eastward of Nether Liberton stands ~ to Sir Alexander Gilmour of Craigmillar, according the quaint old Inch House, built in the year 1617, to the Valuation Roll for that year. during the reign of James VI., upon land which, in the preceding century, belonged to the monks of Holyrood-a mansion long the residence of the Little-Gilmours of Craigmillar, and of old the patrimony of the Winrams of The Inch and Liberton, a family, according to the ArchmZogia .%QfiC@, descended from the Winrams of Wiston, in Clydesdale. In 1644 George Winram of Liberton was a baron of Parliament. In the following year he accused the Commissioner for Aberdeen, Patrick Leslie, “ as one unworthy to sit in Parliament, being a malignant, who drunk Montrose’s health ”-a statement remitted to a committee of the House. (Balfour’s “ Annales.”) In 1649 he was made a Lord of Session, by the title of Lord Liberton, and was one of the commissioners sent to the young king in Holland, after seeing whom, he, with the others, landed at Stonehaven, and was with the Parliament at Perth in the August of the same year. In October he sailed from Leith to Gsit the king again at Brussels on public business, obtaining a passage in a States man-of-war, in company with Thomas Eunningham, Conservator of Scottish Privileges at Campvere. In November he was again with the king at Jersey, with letters from the Committee of Estates, and landed at Leith from a Dutch war-ship, in February, 1650, charged with letters from Charles 11. to the Parliament and General Assembly, prior to the king’s coronation in Scotland. He.served in the Regiment of the College of Justice, and being mortally wounded at the battle of Dunbar,died eight days after the defeat in that town. His son, colonel in the Scottish army, was Lieutenant-Governor of Edinburgh Castle, under the Duke of Gordon, during the protracted siege thereof in 1688-9, and the latter was urged by Dundee to repair to the Highlands, and leave the defence of the fortress to Winram, who was deemed a loyal and gallant officer. After the capitulation, in violation of its terms, he was made a prisoner in the fortress for some time, and after that we hear no more of him in history. In 1726 The Inch and Nether Liberton belonged In the middle of the eighteenth century the house was the residence of Patrick Grant, Lord Elchies, a senator of the College of Justice. Born in 1690, he was called to the bar in 1711, became a judge of the Court of Session in 1732, andof the Court of Justiciary three years subsequently. He was an able lawyer and upright judge, and collected various decisions, which were published in two quarto volumes, and edited by W. M. Morrison, advocate. He died at the Inch House on 27th June, 1754, in the sixty-fourth year of his age, leaving behind him, as the papers of the time say, the character of an honest man, a sincere friend, an able lawyer, universally regretted by all those whose esteem, whem alive, he would have wished to gain.” Edmonstone House, which is the seat of Sir John Don Wauchope, Bart., lies about a mile south of Niddne, on high and commanding ground overlooking the hollow where Little France and Kingston Grange lie, and is an elegant mansion, surrounded by fine plantations. It was named Edmonstown, from Edmond, a Saxon follower of Margaret, the Queen of Malcolm Canmore, said to be a younger son of Count Egmont of Flanders, and froni whom the Edmonstones of Duntreath and Ednum (chief branch of the family, but lately extinct) and all others of the name are descended. A charter of the office of coroner for Edinburgh was given to John of Edmonstone by King David II.,pro toto tempore vita SUE, dated at Aberdeen in the thirty-third year of his reign. The same, or another having the same name, received from the same king a grant of the thanage of Boyen, in Banffshire. Sir John de Edmonstone, knight, was one of three ambassadors sent by Robert 11. to Charles V. of France in 1374, to solicit his interposition with the Pope and Sacred College to procure a favourable decree in the suit prosecuted at the instance of Margaret Logie, Queen Consort of Scodand. He married Isabel, daughter of Robert II., relict of James, Earl of Douglas, who fell at Otterbourne in 1388, and left two sons, one of whom was Knight of Culloden and first of the House of Duntreath. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Inch. CHAPTER XL. THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued). The Inch Honse-The ...

Vol. 6  p. 338 (Rel. 1.01)

THE PALACE BURNED AND REPAIRED. 73 ~ gesse !”’ Then the castle fired a salute, while silver was scattered to the multitude. Three years afterwards the king and court had departed, and Holyrood was consigned to silence and gloom. On James VI. re-visiting Scotland in 1617, the palace was fitted up for him with considerable splendour, but his project of putting up statues of the apostles in the chapel caused great excitement in the city. Taylor, the Water-poet, who was at Holyrood in the following year, states that he ~~ the gardens known as Queen Mary‘s sundial, although the cyphers of Charles, his queen, and eldest son appear upon it. Cromwell quartered a body of his infantry in the palace, and by accident they set it on fire, on the 13th November, 1650, when it wzs destroyed, all save the Tower of James V., with its furniture and decorations. Of this palace a drawing by Gordon of Rothiemay has been preserved, which shows the main entrance to have been where we find it HOLYROOD PALACE AKD ABBEY CHURCH, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST. saw this legend over the royal arms at the gate : CC4Nobis hec invicta misanf 106 proovi.’ I inquired what the English of it was. It was told me as followeth, which I thought worthy to be recorded : -6 106 foreJ&%ws h i e I& this to ux unconpumed..’ ” When Charles I. visited Edinburgh, in 1633, the magistrates employed the famous Jameson to paint portraits of the Scottish monarchs, and, imitative of his master Rubens, he wore his hat when Charles I. sat to him ; but it is probable that after the latter‘s last visit, in 1641, the palace must have become somewhat dilapidated, otherwise Cromwell would have taken up his residence there. The improvements effected by Charles were considerable, and among other memorials of his residence still remaining, is the beautiful dial in 68 now. Round embattled towers flank it, with bow windows in them, and above the grand gate are the royal arms of Scotland. On either side is a large range of buildings having great windows ; and the now empty panels in the Tower of James V. appear to have been filled in with armorial bearings, doubtless destroyed by Cromwell. In his map of 1657 the same artist shows a louyingdn-stone in the centre of the palace yard. The palace was rebuilt to a certain extent, by order of Cromwell, in 1658, but the whole of his work, at the Restoration, was pulled down by royal warrant two years after, as the work “ built by the usurper, and doth darken the court” Engrafted on the part that survived the conflagration, and designed, it is said, after the noble ... PALACE BURNED AND REPAIRED. 73 ~ gesse !”’ Then the castle fired a salute, while silver was scattered to ...

Vol. 3  p. 73 (Rel. 1)

72 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHo~yrOam Commendator of Coldingham. He was created, in right of his mother (who was the only sister of the notorious peer), Earl of Bothwell and Lord High Admiral of Scotland in 1587. He became an avowed enemy of the king, and Holyrood was the scene of more than one frantic attempt made by him upon the life of James. One of these, in 1591, reads like a daring frolic, as related by Sir James Melville, when the earl attacked at the Girth Cross. On the 24th July, 1593, Bothwell, who had been outlawed, again burst into the palace with his retainers, and reached the royal apartments. Then the king, incapable of resisting him, desired Bothwell, to “consummate his treasons by piercing his sovereign’s heart ; I’ but Bothwell fell on his knees and implored pardon, which the good-natured king at once granted, though a minute before. he had, as Birrel records, been seeking flight the palace at the head of his followers. I was I by the back stair, “with his breeks in his hand.” HOLYROOD PALACE AS IT WAS BEFORE THE FIRE OF 1650. (Facrimiie, af#w Cmdon OfRotkicma~.) at supper with my Lord Duke of Lennox, who took his sword and pressed forth; but he had no company and the place was full ofenemies. We were compelled to fortify the doors and stairs with tables, forms, and stools, and be spectators of that strange hurlyburly for the space of an hour, beholding With torchlight, forth of the duke’s gallery, their reeling and rumbling with halberts, the clacking of the culverins and pistols, the dunting of mells and hammers, and crying for justice.” The earl and his followers ultimately drew off, but left the master stabler and another lying dead, and the king was compelled to go into the city; but eight of Bothwell’s accomplices were taken and hanged In 1596 the future Queen of Bohemia was baptised in Holyrood, held in the arms of the English ambassador, while the Lyon King proclaimed her from the windows as “the Lady Elizabeth, first daughter of Scotland;” and on the 23rd December, 1600, the palace was the scene of the baptism of her brother, the future Charles I., with unusual splendour in the chapel royal, in presence of the nobles, heralds, and officers of state. ‘‘ The bairn was borne by the Marquis de Rohan, and the Lord Lyon proclaimed him out of the west window of the chapel as ‘Lord Charles of Scotland, Duke of Albany, Marquis of Ormond, Ex1 of ROSS, and Lord Ardmannoch. Largesse ! Largesse 1 Lar ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHo~yrOam Commendator of Coldingham. He was created, in right of his mother (who was ...

Vol. 3  p. 72 (Rel. 1)

3 18 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [cogs. p. baronet of Nova Scotia by James VII., in 1687. The close of the family is thus recorded in the Scottish Register for 1795 :-“September I. At Cramond House, died Adam, Inglis, Esq., last surviving son af Sir John Inglis of Cramond, Bart. He was instructed in grammar and learning at the High School -and University of Edinburgh, and at the Warrington Academy in Lancashire ; studied law at Edinburgh, and was ca!led to thc bar in 1782. In May, 1794~ was appointed lieutenant of one of the Midlothian troops of cavalry, in which he paid the most assiduous attention to the raising and discipline of the men. On the 23rd August he was attacked with fever, and expired on the 1st September, in the thirty-fourth year of his age, unmarried.” Cramond House is now the seat of the Craigie-Halkett family. Some three miles south of Cramond lies the district of Gogar, an ancient and suppressed parish, a great portion of which is now included in that of Corstorphine Gogar signifies ‘‘ light,” according to some “etymological notices,” by Sir Janies Foulis of Colinton, probably from some signal given to an army, as there are, he adds, marks of a battle having taken p1ac.e to the westward‘; but his idea is much more probably deduced from the place named traditionally “ the Flashes,” the scene of Leslie’s repulse of Cromwell in 1650. The name is more probably Celtic The “ Ottadeni and Gadeni,” says a statistical writer, ‘‘ the British descendants of the first colonists, enjoyed their original land during the second century, and have left memorials of their existence in the names of the Forth, the Almond, the Esk, the Leith, the Gore, the Gogar, and of Cramond, Cockpen, Dreghorn,” etc. The church of Gogar was much older than that of Corstorphine, but was meant for a scanty population. A small part of it still exists, and after the Reformation was set apart as a burial-place for the lords of the manor. Gogar was bestowed by Robert Bruce on his trusty comrade in many a well-fought field, Sir Alexander Seton, one of the patriots who signed that famous letter to the Pope in 1330, asserting the independence of the Scots ;’ and vowing that so long as one hundred of them remained alive, they would never submit to the King of England. He was killed in battle at Kinghorn in 1332. Soon after this establishment the Parish of Gogar was acquired by the monks of Holyrood; but before the reign of James V. it had been constituted an independent rectory. In 1429 Sir John Forrester conferred its tithes on his collegiate church at Corstorphine, and made it one of the prebends there. In June, 1409, Walter Haliburton, of Dirleton, in a charter dated from that place, disposed of the lands and milne of Goga to his brother George. Among the witnesses were the Earls of March and Orkney, Robert of Lawder, and others. In 1516 the lands belonged to the Logans of Restalrig and others, and during the reign of James VI. were in possession of Sir Alexander Erskine, Master of Mar, appointed Governor of Edinburgh Castle in I 5 78. Though styled “the Master,” he was in reality the second son of John, twelfth Lord Erskine, and is stated by Douglas to have been an ancestor of the Earls of Kellie, and was Vice-ChamberIain of Scotland. His son, Sir Thomas Erskine, also of Gogar, was in 1606 created Viscount Fenton, and thirteen years afterwards Earl of Kellie and Lord Dirleton. In 1599, after vain efforts had been made by its few parishioners to raise sufficient funds for an idcumbent, the parish of Gogar was stripped of its independence ; and of the two villages of Nether Gogar and Gogar Stone, which it formerly contained, the latter has disappeared, and the popu- Iation of the former numbered a few years ago only twenty souls. Grey Cooper, of Gogar, was made a baronet ot Nova Scotia in 1638. In 1646 the estate belonged to his son Sir John Cooper, Bart., and in 1790 it was sold by Sir Grey Cooper, M.P., to the Ramsays, afterwards of Barnton. A Cooper of Gogar is said to have been one Df the first persons who appeared in the High Street of Edinburgh in a regular coach. They were, as already stated, baronets of 1638, and after them came the Myrtons of Gogar, baronets of 1701, md now extinct. On the muir of Gogar, in 1606, during the prevalence of a plape, certain little “ lodges” were built by James Lawriston, and two other persons named respectively David and George Hamilton, for the accommodation of the infected ; but these edifices were violently destroyed by Thomas Marjoribanks, a portioner of Ratho, on the plea that their erection was an invasion of his lands, yet the Lords of the Council ordered theni to be re-built’“ where they may have the best commodity of water,’’ as the said muir was common property. The Edinburgh Cowant for April, 1723, records that on the 30th of the preceding March, ‘‘ Mrs. Elizabeth Murray, lady toThomas Kincaid, younger, of Gogar Mains,” was found dead on the road from Edinburgh to that place, with all the appearance of having been barbarously murdered. ... 18 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [cogs. p. baronet of Nova Scotia by James VII., in 1687. The close of the family is ...

Vol. 6  p. 318 (Rel. 0.98)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur's Seat 304 in places where the sandstone has been quarried (as the craigs were for years to pave the streets of London), beautiful specimens have been obtained of radiated haematites, intermixed with steatites, green fibrous iron ore, and calcareous spar, a most uncommon mixture. the glacier are to be found all over these craigs and Arthur's Seat, and on various parts are found rounded ' boulders, some of which have been worked backwards and forwards till left at last, stranded by the farewell ebb of an ancient sea. The rocky cone of Arthur's Seat is strongly mag- PLAN OF ARTHUR'S SEAT (THE SANCTUARY OF HOLYROOD). veins of calcareous spar, talc, zoolite, and amethystine quartzose crystals; and strange to say several large blocks of the same greenstone of which they . are composed are to be found on Arthur's Seat, at elevations of from eighty to 200 feet above the craigs. In ascending the steep path which leads from Holyrood to the top of the latter, we pass over layers of sandstone which show ripple marks-the work of the ice-of unknown ages, grinding and depositing pebbles, coarse sand, and sedimentary rock. The bluffs above the path must have had many a hard struggle, when glaciers crashed against tion of men of science to this circumstance in 183 I, when he stated that at some points he found the needle completely reversed. (Edn. PhiZ. Juurnal, No. XXII.) Concerning the origin of the name of this remarkable mountain, and that of the adjacent craigs, there have been many theories. Arthur is a name of-frequent occurrence in Scottish, as well as Welsh and English topography, and is generally traced by tradition to the famous Arthur of romance, and who figures so much in half-fabulous history. From this prince, who is said to have reigned over Strathclyde from 508 to 542, when he was shin at the ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur's Seat 304 in places where the sandstone has been quarried (as the craigs ...

Vol. 4  p. 304 (Rel. 0.97)

iv .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER VIII. HOLYROOD ABBEY (mnrZu&d). PAGE Charter of W X i I.-Trial of the Scottish TemplarsPrendergast’s Reveng-ters by ROM 11. and 111.-The Lord of the Isles --Coronation of Jams IL-Muliaper of Jam- 11. and III.-Church, &c, burned by the English-Plundered by them-Its Restoration by Jam- VII.-The Koyal Vault-Dexription of the Chapel Royal-Plundered at the Revolution-Ruined in r+The West Front-The Belhaven Monument--The Churchyard-Extent of Present Ruin-The Sanctuary-The Abbey Bells . . . . 50 CHAPTER ,IX. HOLYROOD PALACE. First Notice of its History-Marriage of James 1V.-The Scots of the Days of Flodden-A Bnwl in the Palace-James V.’s Tower-The Gudeman of Ballengeich-His MarriageDeath of Queen Magdalene-The Council of November, 192-A Standing h y Proposed- The Muscovite Ambarradon Entermined by the Queen Regent . . - . . . . . , . . . . . . 60 CHAPTER X. HOLYROOD PALACE (continued). . Queen Mary‘a Apartments-Her Arrival in Edinburgh-Riot in the Chapel Royal-“The Queen’s Manes”-Interview with Knox- Mary‘s Marriage with Darnley-The Podtion of G o - T h e Murder of Rizrio-Burial of Darnley-Marriage of Mary and Bothwell- Mary’s Last Visit to Holyd-Jams VI. and the “ Mad” Earl of BothweU-Baptism of the Queen of Bohemia and Charles I.- Taylor the Water-poet at Holyrood-Charles I.’s Imprisonment-Palace Burned and Re-built-The Palace before 165eThe F‘resent Palace-The Quadrangle-The Galluyof the Kings-The Tapestry-The Audiepce-Chamber . . . . . . . . . 66 . CHAPTER XI. HOLYROOD PALACE (comZu&dJ. The King’s Birthday in 166~-Jams Duke of Alhany-The Duchess of Alhany and General Dabell-Funeral of the Duke of Rothes- A Gladiatorial Exhibition-Depamuc of the Scottish Household Troops-The Hunters’ Company’s Balls-First and Second Via of the p y a l Family of France-Recent Impropunents-St. h e ’ s Yard removed-The Ornamental Fountain built . . , 74 . . . . CHAPTER XII. THE MOUND. The North Loch used for Sousings and DuckinPThe Boats, Swans, Ducks, and Eels-Accidents in the Loch-Last Appearance of the Loch-Formation of the Mound--“ Geordie Boyd‘s Mud Brif-The Rotunda-Royal Institution-Board of Manufactures-History of the Board-The Equivalent Money-Sii J. Shaw Lefenr’s Report-School of Design-Gallery of Sculpture-Royal Society of Edinburgh-Museum of Antiquities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 CHAPTER XIII. THE MOUND (conduded). The Art Galleries-The National Gallery-The Various Collections-The Royal Scottish Academy-Early Scottish Artists-The Institntion- The First Exhibition in Edinburgh-Foundation of the Academy-Presidents : G. Watson, Si Wdliam Allan, Si J. W. Gordon, Sir Carge Harvey, Si Daniel Macnee-The Spaldmg Fund , . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 - CHAPTER XIV. THE HEAD OF THE MOUND. The Bank of Scotland-Its Charter-%dry of the Royal Bank Notes for L5 and for *-The New Bank of Scotland-Its Present Aspect -The Projects of Mr. Trotter and Sir Thomas Dick Lauder-The National Security Savings Bank of Edinburgh-The Fm Church College and Assembly Hall-Their Foundation-Constitution-Library-Museum-B and Theological Societies-The Dining Hall, &.-The West Princes Street Gardens-The Proposed Canal and Seaport-The East F’rince~ Street . Gardens-Railway Terminus-Waverley Bridge and Market . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . 93 ... .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER VIII. HOLYROOD ABBEY (mnrZu&d). PAGE Charter of W X i I.-Trial of the ...

Vol. 4  p. 386 (Rel. 0.96)

in what was of old the open garden ground attached t o the palace. The tradition of its having been the Queen’s bath is of considerable antiquity. Pennant records an absurd story to the effect that she was wont to use a bath of white wine ; but the spring of limpid water that now wells under the earthen floor attests that she resorted to no other expedient than aqua jura to exalt or shield her charms. And the story is also referred to in a poem called ‘( Craigmillar,” published about 1770. William Graliam, the last Earl of Airth, who died in 1694, from the Earl of Linlithgow. By him it is described as being situated at the back of Holyrood, arid having before belonged to Lord Elphinstone. The “History of Holyrood,” published in 1821, states that the old house of Croft-an-Righ, an edifice of the sixteenth century, had been the residence of the Regent Moray, and with its garden was “gifted, along with several of the adjoining dence of Scottish courtiers in the days of other years. The most remarkable of these is the ancient house of CYofan-Rl;sS’I, or the Field of the King. Corbelled turrets adorn its sollthern gable, and dormer windows its northern front, while many of the ceilings exhibit ela5orate stucco details, including several royal insignia. Traditionally this house, which, in 1647, was approached from the Abbey burying-ground by an arched gate between two lodges, has been erroneously associated with Mary of Guise; but is of the said Abbey of Halirudhouse, grantit the privilige of the Girth (protection and sanctuary) to the hail boundis of the said Abbey, and to that part of the burghe of the Cannogait, fra the I Girth Corse (cross) down to the Clokisrwne Mylne, quhilk privilige has bene inviolablie observit to all manner of personis curnond wytin the boundes aforsaid, not committand the crymes expresslie exceptit for all maner of girt%, and that in all tymes bigane past memorie of man.” ... what was of old the open garden ground attached t o the palace. The tradition of its having been the Queen’s ...

Vol. 3  p. 41 (Rel. 0.94)

barbarism of the Scottish court. She was magnificent in her own attire ; she increased the number of persons in attendance on the king, and caused him to be served at table in gold and silver plate. She was canonised by Innocent IV. in 1251. For several ages the apartment in which she expired was known as “ye blessit Margaret’s chalmer” (i.e., chamber). A fountain on the west side of the fortress long bore her name; and a small guardhouse on the western ramparts is still called the Queen’s, or St. biargaret’s, Post. The complete restoration of her oratory (says an Edinburgh Courant of 1853) “has been effected in a very satisfactory manner, under the superintendence of Mr. Grant. The modern western entrance has been built up, and an .ancient one re-opened at the north-west corner of the nave. Here a new doorway has been built in the same style with the rest of the building. The three small round-headed windows have been filled with stained glass-the light in the south side of the apse representing St. Margaret, the two in the side of the nave showing her husband, King Malcolm Canmore and their son St. David, and the light in the west gable of the nay having a cross and the sacred monogram with this inscription :-Hac ediczda oZim Beafce Margaretce Regim Scofia, puce obiit M.XCIII., ingrate $atria izqli&zfia Zapsa, Victorire Rpmz prognatre auspiciis restitufa, A. D. MUCCCLII..” St. Margaret had scarcely expired, when Bishop Turgot, her children, and the whole court, were filled with terror, on finding the fortress environed by an army composed of fierce western Highlanders, “clad in the dun deer‘s hide, striped breacan, and hauberks (or lurichs) of jingling rings,” and led by Donald Bane, or the fair-haired, the younger brother of Malcolm III., who had fled to the Hebrides, as the latter did to England, on the usurpation by Macbeth. Without opposition he had himself proclaimed king, and ,promised to give the Hebrides and other isles to Magnus Barefoot, King of Norway, for assistance if it were required. He had resolved to put the orphan children of Malcolm to death, but believing that egress from the fortress on the steep could only be had by the gates facing the little town, he guarded them alone. The children thus escaped by a western postern, and fled to England, where they found protection with their uncle, Edgar Atheling. The two princesses were afterwards married : Mary to Eustace, Count of Boulogne, the great Crusader; and Matilda to Henry of England-a union extremely popular with the Saxon people. By the same postern Turgot and others carefully and reverentlyconveyed the body of the queen, and carried it “ to Dunfermline, in the woods; and that Heaven might have some share in protecting remains so sacred, the legendaries record that a miraculous mist arose frow the earth, concealing the bishop, the royal corpse, and its awe-stricken bearers, from the half-savage Donald and his redhaired Islesmen, and did pot pass away until they had crossed in safety the Passagkm Repine, or Queen’s Ferry, nine miles distant, where Margaret had granted land for the maintenance of a passage boat ”-a grant still in force. She was buried at Dunfermline, under the great block of grey marble which still marks her grave ; and in the sides thereof may yet be seen the sockets of the silver lamps which, after her canonisation, burned there until the Reformation, when the Abbot of Dunfermline fled to the Castle of Edinburgh with her head in a jewelled coffer, and gave it to some Jesuits, who took it to Antwerp. From thence it was borne to the Escurial in Spain, where it is still preserved by the monks of St. Jerome. Her son xdgar, a prince of talent and valour, recovered the throne by his sword, and took up his residence in the Castle of Edinburgh, where he had seen his mother expire, and where he, too, passed away, on the 8th of January, 1107. The register of the Priory of St. Andrews, in recording his demise, has these words :-“ Moriuus in Dun- Edin, est sepuZfus in Dunfe~ndikg.” On his death-bed he bequeathed that part of Cumberland which the kings of Scotland possessed to his younger brother David. Alexander I., surnamed the Fierce,” eldest brother of the latter, was disposed to dispute the validity of this donation ; but perceiving that David had won over the English barons to his interest, he acquiesced in this partial dismemberment of the kingdom. It is in the reign of this monarch, in the first years of the twelfth century, that the first notices of Edinburgh as a royal city and residence are most distinctly found, while’ in that of his successor, David I., crowned in 1124 after being long resident at the court of his sister Matilda, where, according to Malmesbury, “his manners were polished fiom the rust of Scottish barbarity,” and where he married Matilda daughter of Waltheof, Earl of Northumberland, we discover the origin of many of the most important local features still surviving. He founded the abbey of Holyrood, called by Fordun ‘‘ Monastmirm Sancfre Cmcis de Crag.” This convent, the precursor of the great abbey, he is said to have placed at first within the Castle, and some of the earliest gifts of its saintly ... of the Scottish court. She was magnificent in her own attire ; she increased the number of persons in ...

Vol. 1  p. 19 (Rel. 0.93)

78 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ Holyrood. The Edinburgh HeraZd of April, 1797, mentions the departure froni Holyrood of the Duc d’Angoul&me for Hamburg, to join the army of the Prince of Condd, and remarks, (( We wish His Highness aprosperous voyage, and we may add (the valediction of his ancestor, Louis XIV., to the unfortunate James VII.), may we never see his face again on the same errand ! ” The Comte d’Artois visited Sweden in 1804, but was in Britain again in 1806. His levees and balls “tended in some degree to excite in the minds of the inhabitants a faint idea of the days of other years, when the presence of its monarchs communicated splendour and animation to this ancient metropolis, inspiring it with a proud consciousness of the remote antiquity and hereditary independence of the Scottish throne.” His farewell address to the magistrates and people, dated from the palace 5th August, 1799, is preserved among the records of the city. Among those who pressed forward to meet him was a Newhaven fishwife, who seized his hand as he was about to enter his carriage, and shook it heartily, exclaiming, ‘( My name’s Kirsty Ramsay, sir. I am happy to see you again among decent folk ! ” - When the events of the Three Days compelled Charles X to abdicate the throne of France, he waived his rights in favour of his nephew, the young puc de Bordeaux, and quitting his throne, contemplated at once returning to Holyrood, where he had experienced some years of comparative happiness, and still remembered with gratitude the kindness of the citizens. This he evinced by his peculiar favour to all Scotsmen, and his munificence to the sufferers by the great fire in the Parliament Square. He and his suiteconsisting of IOO exiles, including the ~ U C de Bordeaux, Duc de Polignac, Duchesse de Berri, Baron de Damas, Marquis de Brabancois, and the Abbe‘ de Moligny-landed at Newhaven on the 20th October, 1830, amid an enthusiastic crowd, which pressed forward on all sides with outstretched hands, welcoming him back to Scotland, and escorted him to Holyrood. Next morning many gentlemen dined in Johnston’s tavern at the abbey in honour of the event, sang “Auld lang syne” under his windows, and gave three ringing cheers ‘( for the King of France? ’ The Duc and Duchesse d‘Angoul&me, after residing during \se winter at 2 I, Regent Terrace, joined the king% Holyrood when their apartments were ready. To the poor of the Canongate and the city generally, the exiled family were royally liberal, and also to the poor Irish, and their whole bearing was unobtrusive, religious, and exemplary. Charles was always thoughtful and melancholy. (‘ He walked frequently in Queen. Mary’s garden, being probably pleased by its seclusion and proximity to the palace. Here, book in hand, he used to pass whole hours in retirement, sometimes engaged in the perusal of the volume, and anon stopping short, apparently absorbed in deep reflection. Charles sometimes indulged in a walk through the city, but the crowds that usually followed him, anxious to gratify their curiosity, in some measure detracted from the pleasure of these perambulations. . . . . . Arthur’s Seat and the King’s Park afforded many a solitary walk to the exiled party, and they seemed much delighted with their residence. It was evident from the first that Charles, when he sought the shores of Scotland, intended to make Holyrood his. home; and it may be imagined how keenly he felt, when, after a residence of nearly two years, he was under the necessity of removing to another country. Full of the recollection of former days, which time had not effaced from his memory, he said he had anticipated spending the remainder of his life in the Scottish capital, and laying his bones among the dust of our ancient kings in the chapel of Holyrood.” (Kay, vol. ii.) In consequence of a remonstrance from Louis Philippe, a polite but imperative order compelled the royal family to prepare to quit Holyrood, and the most repulsive reception given to the Duc de Blacas in London, was deemed the forerunner Df harsher measures if Charles hesitated to comply ; but when it became known that he was to depart, a profound sensation of regret was manifested in ’ Edinburgh. The 18th September, 1832, was named as the day of embarkation. Early on that morning a deputation, consisting of the Lord Provost Learmonth of Dean, Colonel G. Macdonell, Menzies of Pitfoddels (the last of an ancient line), Sir Charles Gordon of Drimnin, James Browne, LL.D., Advocate, the historian of the Highlands, and other gentlemen, bearers of arm address drawn up by, and to be read by the lastnamed, appeared before the king at Holyrood. One part of this address contained an allusion to the little Duc de Bordeaux so touching that the poor king was overwhelmed With emotion, and clasped the document to his heart. ‘( I am unable to express myself,” he exclaimed, ‘( but this I will conserve among the most precious possessions of my family.” After service in the private chapel, many gentlemen and ladies appeared before Charles, the Duc d’AngoulCme, and Duc de Bordeaux, when they ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ Holyrood. The Edinburgh HeraZd of April, 1797, mentions the departure froni Holyrood ...

Vol. 3  p. 78 (Rel. 0.93)

Holyrood.? JAMES IV. 61 whose contract is still preserved in the city archives. A minute account of her reception at Edinburgh has been preserved by one of her attendants, John Young, the Somerset Herald, who records in a pleasing light the wealth, refinement, and chivalry of the court of Scotland. The king met his fair bride, who was then in her fourteenth year, at Dalkeith, where she was entertained by John Earl of Morton. She had scarcely taken possession af her chamber when the tramp of horses was heard in the quadrangle, and among the English using a stirrup, and spurred on at full gallop, leaving who might to follow ; but hearing that the Earl of Surley-his future foe-and other nobles were be hind, he returned and saluted them bareheaded. At their next meeting Margaret played also on the lute and clavichord, while the monarch listened with bended knee and head uncovered. Who, then, could have foreseen- the disastrous day of Flodden ! When she left Newbattle to proceed to the capital, James, attired in a splendid costume, met her on t 6 ISOMETRIC PROJECTION CIF THE ROYAL PALACE OF HOLYROOD HOUSE. (Fmnz am Engraaifig in Maitkwds “Hntory of Edinburglr.”) attendants the cry rang through the castle, (‘ The ,king ! The King of Scotland has arrived !” The whole interview between the royal pair, as rdescribed by the Somerset Herald, presents a ‘curious picture of the times. (( James was dressed .simply in a velvet jacket, with his hawking lure .flung over his shoulder ; his hair and beard curled naturally, and were rather long. . . . . . . He took her hand and kissed her, and saluted all her ladies by kissing them. Then the king took the queen aside, and they communed together for a long space.” He then returned to Holyrood. Next night he visited her at Newbattle, when he found her playing cards ; and James, who is said to have composed the air of “Here’s a health to my true love,” entertained her by a performance on the clavichord and lute ; add on taking leave he sprang on his horse, “ a right fair courser,” without a bay horse trapped with gold. Before him rode Bothwell, bearing the sword of state, with the leading nobles. He took the queen from “her litre,” and placing her behind him on a pillion, they rode onward to the city. On the way they were entertained by a scene of chivalry-a knight errant in full armour rescuing a distressed lady from a rival. The royal pair were met at their entrance by the Grey Friars, whose monastery they had to pass, bearing, in solemn procession, banner and cross and their most valued relics, which were presented to receive the kiss of Margaret and James ; and thereafter they had to tarry at an embattled barrier, at the windows of which were (( angells syning joyously,” one of whom presented to her the keys of the‘ city. Descending the crowded streets, they were met by the whole Chapter of St. Giles’s in their richest ... JAMES IV. 61 whose contract is still preserved in the city archives. A minute account of her reception ...

Vol. 3  p. 61 (Rel. 0.91)

Kolyrood.] THE COFFIN OF JAMES V. 65 Appended to this scroll was a minute of thei possessions, with a hint of the pecuniary advantager to result from forfeiture. This dangerous policy James repelled by exclaiming, ‘‘ Pack you, javels ! (knaves). Get you to your religious charges ; reform your lives, and be not instruments of discord between me and my nobles, or else I shall reform you, not as the King of Denmark does, by im prisonment, nor yet as the King of England does by hanging and heading, but by sharp swords, if I hear of such hotion of you again ! ” From this speech it has been suppqsed that Jxnes contemplated some reform in the then dissolute Church. But the rout at Solway followed; his heart was broken, and on learning the birth of his daughter Mary, he died in despair at Falkland, yet, says Pitscottie, holding up his hands to God, as he yielded his spirit. He was interred in the royal vault, in December, 1542, at Holyrood, where, according to a MS. in the Advocates’ Library, his body was seen by the Earl of Forfar, the Lord Strathnaver, and others, who examined that vault in 1683. “We viewed the body of James V. It lyeth within ane wodden coffin, and is coverit with ane lead coffin. There seemed to be hair upon the head still. The body was two lengths of my staff with twa inches more, which is twae inches and more above twae Scots elms, for I measured the staff with an ellwand afterward. The body was coloured black with ye balsam that preserved it, and which was lyke melted pitch. The Earl of Forfar took the measure with his staf lykewayes” On the coffin was the inscription, flhstris Scoturum, Rex Jacobus, gus Nominis E, with the dates of his age and death. The first regent after that event was James, second Earl of Arran (afterwards Duke of Chatelherault, who had been godfather to James, the little Duke of Rothesay, next heir to the crown, failing the issue of the infant Queen Mary), and in 1545 this high official was solemnly invested at Holyrood, together with the Earls of Angus, Huntly, and Argyle, with the collar and robes of St. Michael, sent by the King of France, and at the hands of the Lyon King of Arms. We have related how the Church suffered at the hands of English pillagers after Pinkie, in 1547. The Palace did not escape. Seacombe, in his ‘‘ History of the House of Stanley,” mentions that Norns, of Speke Hall, Lancashire, an English commander at that battle, plundered from Holyrood all or most of the princely library of the deceased King of Scots, James V., “particularly four large folios, said to contain the Records and Laws of Scotland at that time.” He also describes a grand piece of wainscot, now in Speke Hall, as having been brought from the palace, but this is considered, from its style, doubtful. During the turmoils and troubles that ensued after Mary of Guise assumed the regency, her proposal, on the suggestion of the French Court, to form a Scottish standing army like that of France, so exasperated the nobles and barons, that three hundred of them assembled at Holyrood in 1555, and after denouncing the measure in strong terms, deputed the Laird of Wemyss and Sir James Sandilands of Calder to remonstrate with her on the unconstitutional step she was meditating, urging that Scotland had never wanted brave defenders to fight her battles in time of peril, and that they would never submit to this innovation on their ancient customsc This spirited remonstrance from Holyrood had the desired effect, as the regent abandoned her pro-- ject. She came, after an absence, to the palace in the November of the following year, when the magistrates presented her with a quantity of new wine, and dismissed McCalzean, an assessor of the city, who spoke to her insultingly in the palace on the affairs of Edinburgh; and in the following February she received and entertained the ambassador of the Duke of Muscovy, who had been shipwrecked on his way to England, whither she sent him, escorted by 500 lances, under the Lord Home. After the death of Mary of Guise and the arrival of her daughter to assume the crown of her ancestors, the most stirring scenes in the history of the palace pass in review. ... THE COFFIN OF JAMES V. 65 Appended to this scroll was a minute of thei possessions, with a hint of the ...

Vol. 3  p. 65 (Rel. 0.9)

CONTENTS. PAGE INTROEUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J CHAPTER I. P R E H I S T O R I C EDINBURGH. The Site before the Houses-Traces of Early Inhabitants-The Caledonian Tribes-Agricola's Invasion-Subjection of the Scottish Lowlands -The Rorrao Way-Edinburgh never occupied permanently-Various Roman Remains : Urns, Coins, Busts ; Swords, Spears, ahd other Weapons-Ancient Coffins-The Camus, or Cath-st,neOrigin of the name " Edinburgh"-Dinas-Eiddyn-The Battle of Catraeth 9 CHAPTER 11. THE CASTLE OF EDINBURGH. Of its Origin and remoter History-The Legends concerning it-Ebranke-St. Monena-Def& of the Sawons by King Bridei-King Edwin-King Grime-The Story of Grime and Bertha of Badlieu-The Starting paint of authentic Edinburgh History-Sr Margaret -Het Piety and amiable Disposition-Her Chapel-Her Death-Restoration of her Oratory-Her Burial-Donald Bane-King David 1.-The Royal Gardens, afterwards the Nonh Loch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I4 CHAPTER 111. CASTLE OF EDINBURGH (continued). The Legend of the White Hart-Holyrocd Abbey founded--The Monks of the Castrum Puellarum-David I.% numerous Endowments-His Death-Fergus. Lord of Galloway, dies there-William the Lion-Castle Garrisoned by the English for Twelve Yean-The Castle a Royal Residence-The War of the Scottish Succession-The ( h t l e in the hands of Edward 1.-Frank's Escalade-The Lbrtres Dismantled-Again in the hands of the English-Bullock's Stratagem for its Re-caprurr-David's Tower . . . . . . 21 CHAPTER IV. CASTLE OF EDINBURGH (confinucd). Progress of the City-Ambassidor of Charles VI.-Edinburgh burned-Henry IV, baffled-Albmy's Prophecy-Laws lrgvdiog the Building - of Houses-Sumptuary Laws, 1457-Murder of James I.-Coronationof JarncsI1.-Court Intrigues-Lard Chancellor C r i c h t o n - ~ g ~ c e of the Earl of Douglas-Faction WaR--l'he Castle Resieged--"The Black Dinner"-Edmburgh Walled-Its Strength -Bale-fires . 26 CHAPTER V. EDINBURGH CASTLE (continued). James 111. and his haughty Nobilib-Plots of the Duke of Albany and Earl of Mar-Mysterious Death of Mar-Capture and Escape of the Duke of Altuny-Captivity of James 111.-Richard of Gloucester at Edinburgh-The "Golden Charter" of the City-"The Blue Blanket"-Accession of James 1V.-Tournamen%" The Seven Sisters of Bothwick "-The " Fldden Wall"-The Reign of Jarnes V. -" Cleahse the Causeway !"-Edinburgh under the Factions of Nobles-Hertford Attacks the CastltDeath of Mary of Guise- Queen Mary's Apartments in the CaStle-BLth of James VI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 CHAPTER VI. EDINBURGH CASTLE (continued). The Siege of r573-The City Bombarded from the Castle-Elizabeth's Spy-D~ry's Dispositions for the Siege-Execution of Kirkddy- Repar of the Ruins-Execution of Mortan-Visit of Charles 1.-Procession to Holymod-Comnation of Charles 1.-The Struggle against Epiico-Siege of 1640-The Spectre Drummn-Besieged by Cmmwell-Under the Protector-The Restantion-The Argyles-The Accession of James VI1.-Sentence of the Earl of Argyle-His. clever Escape-Imprisoned lour yms later-The Last Sleep of ArgylcHis Death-Tolture of Covenaoters-Proclamation of W d l i and Maq-The Siege of 16@-Intewiew between Gordon and Dundee-The Cas le invested-Rdiant Defeuce-Capitulation of the Duke of Cordon-The Spectre of Claverhouse . 47 ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J CHAPTER I. P R E H I S T O R ...

Vol. 2  p. 385 (Rel. 0.88)

168 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. and cleaning the channel of the river at Leith. (Burgh Records.) In 1510, on the 9th March, James IV. granted to the city of Edinburgh the port denominated the New Haven, which he had lately formed on the seacoast, with the lands thereunto belonging, lying between the chapel of St. Nicholas at North Leith and the lands of Wardie Brae, with certain faculties and privileges ; and by another charter of the same date he confinned that by Logan of Restalrig, formerly mentioned. ship laden with timber laid her cargo on the shore,. as sold to the Provost and bailies; then came Robert Bartoun, of Overbarton, called the Controller, with a multitude of the men of Leith, and ‘‘ masterfullie tuik the said tymmyr ” from the treasurer and a bailie, which caused the Lords of Council to issue a decree as to the privileges of the city and the seaport, and that none but freemen . were at liberty to buy from or sell to strangers at the said port in time to come. Fresh disputes about similar affairs seem to have 1 HALFWAY HOUSE, LEITH WALK. In the followeing year eight mn, whose names are recorded, were sworn on the holy evangels as pioneers, to labour and serve the merchants at the port and haven of Leith, and to keep “ the shore clear of middings, fulzie, and sic stufe.” In 1514 the tapsters and wine dealers in Leith were summoned before the magistrates of Edinburgh for injuring the privileges thereof by the sale of wine within the sea-port. Three years after this we find the Laird of Restalrig entering a protest with regard to an arrestment made on the shore of Leith, and maintaining that it should not prejudice his rights as Baron of Restalrig. It would seem that in 1517 a Dutch occurred between the same parties in 1522-3, and we find George, abbot of Holyrood, entering a protest that whatever took place between them it should not be to the prejudice of the Holyrood. (Burgh Records.) In 1528 a vessel belonging to the town, called the Portuguese barque-most probably a prize captured by the famous fighting Bartons of Leith -was ordered to be sold to “ thaise that will gif the maist penny thairfore”-i.e., to the highest bidder. Two years afterwards Leith was afflicted by a pestilence, and all intercourse between it and the city was strictly forbidden, under pain of banishment from the latter for ever. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. and cleaning the channel of the river at Leith. (Burgh Records.) In 1510, on ...

Vol. 5  p. 168 (Rel. 0.86)

56 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood. thirty-two days. He was then brought forth, nude, in presence of a multitude, who regarded him with fear and wonder, and to whom he affirmed “that by the aid of the Blessed Virgin, he could fast as long as he pleased.” “ As there appeared to be more simplicity than guile in his bchaviour, he was released, and. afterwards went to Rome, where he fasted long enough to convince Pope Gregory of the miracte. From Holyrudhous f but the days of its declension an& destruction were at hand. The English army which invaded Scotland under the Earl of Hertford, in 1543-4, barbarously burned down the temporal edifices of the abbey; and. among other plunder there were camed off the brass lectern which has been already described, and a famous brass font of curious workmanship, ‘ by Sir Richard Lea, knight, captain of English INTERIOR OF HOLYROOD CHURCH, LOOKING EAST. Rome he went to Venice, where he received fifty ducats of gold to convey him to Jerusalem, in performance of a vow he had made. He returned to Scotland in the garb of a pilgrim, wearing palmleaves, and bearing a bag filled with Iarge stones, which he said were taken out of the pillar to which the Saviour was bound when he was scourged. He became a preacher, and in an obscure suburb of the city perfornied mass before an altar, on which his daughter, a girl of beauty, stood with wax tapers around her to represent the Virgin-a double impiety, which soon brought him under the ridicule and contempt he deserved.” In 1532, the “ Diurnal of Occurrents ” records, there “was made ane great abjuration of the favouratis of Martene Lutar in the abbey of Pioneers, who presented it to the Church of St, Albans, in Hertfordshire, with the following absur& inscription, which is given in Latin in Camden’s ‘‘ Britannia ”:- -“When Leith, a town of good account im Scotland, and Edinburgh, the principal city of that nation, were on fire, Sir Richard Lea, knyght, saved me out of the flames, and brought me to England In gratitude for his kindness, I, who heretofore served only at the baptism of kings, do now most willingly render the same service even to the meanest of the English nation. Lea the conqueror hath so commanded ! Adieu. The year of man’s salvation, 1543-4, in the thirty-sixth year of King Henry VIII.” Father Hay records that among other things ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood. thirty-two days. He was then brought forth, nude, in presence of a ...

Vol. 3  p. 56 (Rel. 0.84)

treyes beneath the Over Bow to be removit;” the meal market, &c., to be removed from the High Street to foot of James Aikman’s Close, and the ’ grass market to the kirkyard foot ; twelve chief citizens were to be arrayed in velvet gowns ; the craftsmen to be arrayed in French cloth, with doublets of velvet, satin, and damask; thirty-seven citizens to be mounted with velvet foot-mantles and velvet gowns, and all the town officers to be To the inexpressible grief of James and the whole nation, Magdalene, then only in her seventeenth year, died of her insidious disease on the 10th of July. She was interred with great pomp in the royal vault, near the coffin of James II., and her untimely death was the occasion of the first general mourning ever worn in the kingdom. In the treasurer‘s accounts are many entries of the “ Scots claith, French blak, Holland claith, and corsses upon the velvet.” On her coffin was inscribed in Saxon characters, ‘‘ Magdalena Erancisci R&s Frank, Primogmifa Regina Sotie Sponsa Jacoh’ K Regis, A. D. I 53 7, obiit.” Jarnes, however, was not long a widower, and in June, 1538, he brought to Scotland a new bride, Mary of Guise, the widow of the Duke de Longuevihe, who landed at Balcomie, escorted by an admiral of France, and the nuptials were celebrated with pomp at St. Andrews j and on St. Margaret‘s Day in the same year, this new queendestined to enact so important a part in the future history of the realm-made her public entry into Edinburgh by the Port, and rode tw Holyrood Palace, while peat sports and gaiety says Pitscottie. Curious plays were made for her entertainment, and gold, spices, and wines were lavished upon her by the magistrates, who wellnigh exhausted the finances of the city. Amid the State turnoils and horrors that culminated in the rout of Solway, Jarnes V. held a council at Holyrood on the 3rd of November, 1542, when, according to Knox, a scroll was presented to him by Cardinal Beaton, containing the names of more than one hundred of the pnncipal nobles and gentry, including the Earl of Arran, then, by deaths in the royal family, next heir to the throne, who were undoubtedly in the pay of England, tainted with heresy, or in leagie with the then outlawed clan of Douglas, ... beneath the Over Bow to be removit;” the meal market, &c., to be removed from the High Street to ...

Vol. 3  p. 64 (Rel. 0.82)

Holyrood.] ROYAT, MARRIAGES. 55 with the Dukes of Savoy and Burgundy. She landed at Leith amid a vast concourse of all classes of the people, and, escorted by a bodyguard of 300 men-at-arms, all cap-d+e, with the citizens also in their armour, under Patrick Cockburn of Nevtbigging, Provost of Edinburgh and Governor of the Castle, was escorted to the monastery of the Greyfriars, where she was warmly welcomed by her future husband, then in his twentietb year, and was visited by the queenmother on the following day. The week which intervened between her arrival and‘her marriage was spent in a series of magnificent entertainments, during which, from her great beauty and charms of manner, she won the devoted affection of the loyal nobles and people. A contemporary chronicler has given a minute account of one of the many chivalrous tournaments that took place, in which three Burgundian nobles, two of them brothers named Lalain, and the thud HervC Meriadet, challenged any three Scottish knights to joust with lance, battle-axe, sword, and dagger, a defiance at once accepted by Sir James Douglas, James Douglas of Lochleven, and Sir John Ross of Halkhead, Constable of Renfrew. Lances were shivered and sword and axe resorted to with nearly equal fortune, till the king threw down his truncheon and ended the combat. The royal marriage, which took place in the church at Holyrood amid universal joy, concluded these stirring scenes. At the bridal feast the first dish was in the form of a boar’s head, painted and stuck full df tufts of coarse flax, served up on an enormous platter, with thirty-two banners, bearing the arms of the king and principal nobles ; and the flax was set aflame, amid the acclamations of the numerous assembly that filled the banquet-hall. Ten years after Holyrood beheld a sorrowful scene, when, in 1460, James, who had been slain by the bursting of a cannon at the siege of Roxburgh on the 3rd August, in his thirtieth year, was laid in the royal vault, “with the teares of his people and his hail1 army,” says Balfour. In 1467 there came from Rome, dated zznd February, the bull of Pope Paul II., granting, on the petition of the provost, bailies, and community of the city, a con~mission to the Bishop of Galloway, “et dilectojZio Abbafi Monasterii Sancta Cmcis mini viuros de Rdynburgh,” to erect the Church of St. Giles into a collegiate institution. Two years afterwards Holyrood was again the scene of nuptial festivities, when the Parliamen! met, and Margaret of Norway, Denmark, and Sweden, escorted by the Earl of Arran and a gallant train of Scottish aad Danish nobles, landed at Leith in July, 1469. She was in her sixteenth year, and had as her dowry the isles of Orkney and Shetland, over which her ancestors had hitherto claimed feudal superiority. James III., her husband, had barely completed his eighteenth year when they were married in the abbey church, where she was crowned queenconsort. ‘‘ The marriage and coronation gave occasion to prolonged festivities in the metropolis and plentiful congratulations throughout the kingdom. Nor was the flattering welcome undeserved by the queen ; in the bloom of youth and beauty, amiable and virtuous, educated in all the feminine accomplishments of the age, and so richly endowed, she brought as valuable an accession of lustre to the court as of territory to the kingdom.” In 1477 there arrived “heir in grate pompe,” says Balfour, “Husman, the legate of Pope Xystus the Fourth,” to enforce the sentence of deprivation and imprisonment pronounced by Hjs Holiness upon Patrick Graham, Archbishop of St. Andrews, an eminent and unfortunate dignitary of the Church of Scotland. He was the first who bore that rank, and on making a journey to Rome, returned as legate, and thus gained the displeasure of the king and of the clergy, who dreaded his power. He was shut up in the monastery of Inchcolm, and finally in the castle of Lochleven. Meanwhile, in the following year, William Schivez, a great courtier and favourite of the king, was solemnly consecrated in Holyrood Church by the papal legate, from whose hands he received a pall, the ensign of archiepiscopal dignity, and with great solemnity was proclaimed ‘‘ Primate and Legate of the realm of Scotland.” His luckless rival died of a broken heart, and was buried in St. Serf‘s Isle, where his remains were recently discovered, buried in a peculiar posture, with the knees drawn up and the hands down by the side. In 1531, when Robert Cairncross was abbot, there occurred an event, known as “ the miracle of John Scott,” which made some noise in its time. This man, a citizen of Edinburgh, having taken shelter from his creditors in the sanctuary of Holyrood, subsisted there, it is alleged, for forty days without food of any kind. Impressed by this circumstance, of which some exaggerated account had perhaps been given to him, James V. ordered his apparel to be changed and strictly searched. He ordered also that he should be conveyed from Holyrood to a vaulted room in David‘s Tower in the castle, where he was barred from access by all and closely guarded. Daily a small allowance of bread and water were placed before him, but he abstained from both for ... ROYAT, MARRIAGES. 55 with the Dukes of Savoy and Burgundy. She landed at Leith amid a vast concourse ...

Vol. 3  p. 55 (Rel. 0.8)

Holymod.] ‘ QUEEN MARY AND JOHN KNOX. 67 religion of the land, yet on the first Sunday subsequent to her return she ordered mass to be said in the chapel royaL Tidings of this caused a dreadful excitement in the city, and the Master of Lindsay, with other gentlemen, burst into the palace, shouting, ‘‘ The idolatrous priest shall die the death!” for death was by law the penalty of celebrating mass; and themultitude, pouring towards the chapel, strove to lay violent hands on the priest. Lord James-afterwards Regent-Moray succeeded in preventing their entrance by main strength, and thus gave great offence to the people, though he alleged, as an excuse, he wished to prevent “ any Scot from witnessing a service so idolatrous.” After the function was over, the priest was committed to the protection of Lord Robert Stuart, Commendator of Holyrood, and Lord John of Coldingham, who conducted him in safety to his residence. “ But the godly departed in great grief of heart, and that afternoon repaired to the Abbey in great companies, and gave plain signification that they could not abide that the land which God had, by His power, purged from idolatry should be polluted again.” The noise and uproar of these companies ” must have made Mary painfully aware that she was without a regular guard or armed protection ; but she had been barely a week in Holyrood when she held her first famous interview with the great Reformer, which is too well known to be recapitulated here, but whichaccording to himself-he concluded by these remarkable words :-cc I pray God, madam, that ye may be as blessed within the commonwealth of Scotland, if it be the pleasure of God, as ever Deborah was in the commonwealth of Israel.” The Queen’s Maries, so celebrated in tradition, in history, and in song, who accompanied her to France-namely, Mary, daughter of Lord Livingston, Mary, daughter of Lord Flemihg, Mary, daughter of Lord Seton, and Mary Beaton of Balfour, were all married in succession ; but doubtless, so long as she resided at Holyrood she had her maids ol honour, and the name of “Queen’s Maries” became a general designation for her chosen attendants ; hence the old ballad :- “Now bear a hand, my Maries a’ And busk me braw and fine.” Her four Maries, who received precisely the same education as herself, and were taught by the same masters, returned with her to Scotland with their acknowledged beauty refined by all the graces the Court of France could impart; and in a Latin masque, composed by Buchanan, entitled the “Pomp of the Gods,” acted at Holyrood in July, 1567, before her marriage with Damley, Diana speaks to Jupiter of her $%e Manes-the fifth being the queen herself; and well known is the pathetic old ballad which says :- “ Yest’reen the Queen had foyr Manes, This night she’ll have but three ; And Mary Carmichael and me.” There was Marie Beaton and Mane Seaton In a sermon delivered to the nobles previous to the dissolution of Mary’s first Parliament, Knox spoke with fury on the runiours then current concerning the intended marriage of the Queen to a Papist, which “ would banish Christ Jesus from the realm and bring God‘s vengeance on the country.’l He tells that his own words and his manner of’ speaking them were deemed intolerable, and that Protestants and Catholics were equally offended. And then followed his second interview with Mary, who summoned him to Holyrood, where he wasintroduced into her presence by Erskine of Dun, and where she complained of his daring answers and ingratitude to herself, who had courted his favour; but grown undaunted again, he stood before her in a cloth cap, Geneva cloak, and falling bands, and with “ iron eyes beheld her weep in vain.” ‘‘ Knox,” says Tytler, “ affirmed that when in the pulpit he was not master of himself, but must obey His commands who bade him speak plain, and flatter no flesh. As to the favours which had been offered to him, his vocation, he said, was neither to wait in the courts of princes nor in the chambers of ladies, but to preach theGospel. ‘I grant it so,’ reiterated the queen; ‘but what have you to do with my mamage, and what are you within the commonwealth 7 ’ ‘ A subject born within the same ; and albeit, madam, neitherbaron, lord, nor belted earl, yet hath God made me, however abject soever in your eyes, a useful and profitable member. As such, it is my duty to forewarn the people of danger ; and, therefore, what I have said in public I repeat to your own face ! Whenever the nobility of this realm so farforget themselves that you shall be subject to an unlawful husband, they do as much as in them lieth to renounce Christ, to banish the truth, betray the freedom of the realm, and perchance be but cold friends to yourself!’ This new attack brought on a still more passionate burst of tears, and Mary commanded Knox to quit the apartment.” Then it was, as he was passing forth, “ observing a circle of the ladies of the queen’s household sitting near in their gorgeous apparel, he could not depart without a word of admonition. ‘ Ah, fair ladies,’ said he, ‘ how pleasant were this life of yours if it should ever abide, and then b ... ‘ QUEEN MARY AND JOHN KNOX. 67 religion of the land, yet on the first Sunday subsequent to her return ...

Vol. 3  p. 67 (Rel. 0.8)

H o l y d . ] MODERN IMPROVEMENTS. 79 bade them farewell in the Gallery of the Kings, while a vast concourse assembled outside, all wearing the white cockade. Another: multitude was collected at Newhaven, where the Fishermen's Society formed a kind of body-guard to cover the embarkation. '' A few gentlemen," says the editor of " Kay's Portraits," " among whom were Colonel Macdonel, the Rev. Mr. (afterwards Bishop) Gillis, John Robinson, Esq., and Dr. Browne, accompanied His Majesty on board the steamer, which they did not leave till she was under weigh. The distress of the king, and particularly of the dauphin, at being obliged to quit a country to which they were so warmly attached was in the highest degree affecting. The Duc de Bordeaux wept bitterly, and the Duc d'AngouEme, embracing Mr. Gillis d la 3ranfaise, gave unrestrained scope to his emotion. The act of parting with one so beloved, whom he had known and distinguished in the salons of the Tuileries and St. Cloud, long before his family had sought an asylum in the tenantless halls of Holyrood, quite overcame his fortitude, and excited feelings too powerful to be repressed. When this ill-fated family bade adieu to our shores they carried with them the grateful benedictions of the poor, and the respect of all men of all parties who honour misfortune when ennobled by virtue." In Edinburgh it is well known that had H.K.H. the late Prince Consort-whose love of the picturesque and historic led him to appreciate its natural beauties-survived a few years longer, many improvements would have taken place at Holyrood ; and to him it is said those are owing which have already been effected. Southward of the palace, the unsightly old tenements and enclosed gardens at St. Anne's Yard were swept away, including a quaint-looking dairy belonging to the Duke of Hamilton, and by 1857-8-9 the royal garden was extended south some 500 feet from the wall of the south wing, and a new approach was made from the Abbey Hill, a handsome new guard-house was built, and the carved door of the old garden replaced in the wall between it and the fragment of the old abbey porch ; and it was during the residence of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales at Holyrood that the beautiful fountain in the Palace Yard was completed, on the model of the ancient one that stands in ruin nowy in the quadrangle of Linlithgow, and which is referred to by Defoe in his "Tour in Great Britain." The fountain rises from a basin twenty-four feet in diameter to the height of twenty-eight feet, divided into threestages, andby flying buttresses has theeffect of a triple crown. From the upper of these the water flows through twenty ornate gurgoils into three successive basins. The basement is of a massive character, divided by buttresses into eight spaces, each containing a lion's head gurgoil. This is surmounted by eight panels having rich cusping, and between these rise pedestals and pinnacles. The former support heraldic figures with shields. These consist of the unicorn bearing the Scottish shield, a lion bearing a shield charged with the arm of James IV. and his queen, Margaret of England; a deer supports two shields, with the arms of the queens of James V., Magdalene of France, and Mary of Guise ; and the griffin holds the shields of James IV. and his queen, Margaret of Denmark. The pinnacles are highly floriated, and ,enriched with flowers and medallions It is in every way a marvellous piece of stone carving. The flying buttresses connecting the stages are deeply cusped. On the second stage are eight figures typical of the sixteenth century, representing soldiers, courtiers, musicians,' and a lady-falconer, each two feet six inches in height. On the upper stage are four archers of the Scottish Guard, supporting the imperial crown. It occupies the site whereon for some years stood a statue of Queen Victoria, which has now disappeared. Still, as of old, since the union of the cron-ns: for a fortnight in each year the Lord High Conimissioner to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland holds semi-royal state in Holyrood, gives banquets in its halls, and holds his ledes in the Gallery of the Kings. ... o l y d . ] MODERN IMPROVEMENTS. 79 bade them farewell in the Gallery of the Kings, while a vast concourse ...

Vol. 3  p. 79 (Rel. 0.79)

High Street.] THE ROYAL MINT. 267 Fortune’s tavern, removed from Skinner‘s Close to a house at the north-west corner of Nicolson Square, and latterly at No. 2, St. Andrew Square (now the London Hotel), where he died, in his eightieth year, in ISOZ. In his lordship’s time the office of Commissioner to the Church, which he held from 1783 to 1801, was attended with more “pomp and circumstance” Treasurer, under date February, 1562-3 :- “ Item, allowit to the carpenter, be payment maid to Johne Achesoun, Maister Congreave, to Maister William M‘Dowgale, Maister of Werk, for expensis maide be him vpon the bigging of the Cwnge-house, within the castell of Edinburgh, and beting of the qvnge-hous within the Palice of Halierud-house, fra the xi. day of Februar, 1559, zens, to the Comniissioner proceeded on foot, escorted by his guard of honour. South Gray’s, or the Mint Close, was one of the stateliest alleys in the old city, and herein stood the Cunzie flous, as the Scottish Mint was named (after its removal from near Holyrood in Queen Mary’s time) till the Union in 1707, and until lately its sombre and massive tower of finely polished ashlar projecting into the narrow thoroughfare of Cowgate, for three hundred and four years formed one of the leading features of the latter, and to the last the old edifice retained many traces of the important operations that once went on within its walls. The first Mint House had been originally erected in the outer court of the palace of Holyrood, somewhere near the Horse Wynd, fromwhence, for greater safety, it was removed to the castle, in which a new Mint House had been built in 1559, as shown by edifices of the period,” says Wilson, describing the edifice prior to its removal. “The whole building was probably intended, when completed, to form a quadrangle, surrounded on every side by the same substantial walls, well suited for defence against any ordinary assault, while its halls were lighted from the enclosed court. The small windows in this part of the building remain in their original state, being divided by an oaken transom, and the under part closed by a pair of folding shutters. The massive ashlar walls are relieved by ornamental stringcourses, and surmounted by crowsteps of the earliest form and elegant proportions. . . . . The internal marks of former magnificence are more interesting than their external ones, notwithstanding the humble uses to which the buildings have latterly been applied ; in particular some portions of a very fine oak ceiling still remain, wrought in Gothic panelling, ... Street.] THE ROYAL MINT. 267 Fortune’s tavern, removed from Skinner‘s Close to a house at the north-west ...

Vol. 2  p. 267 (Rel. 0.78)

Arthur’s Seat.] . ORIGIN OF battle of Camelon, unsupported tradition has always alleged that Arthur‘s Seat obtained its name ; while with equal veracity the craigs are said to have been so entitled from the Earl of Salisbury, who accompanied Edward 111. in one of his invasions of Scotland, an idle story told by h o t , and ofter, repeated since. Maitland, a much more acute writer, says, ‘(that the idea of the mountain being named from Arthur, a British or Cimrian king, I cannot give into,” and 305 THE NAME. “Do thou not thus, brigane, thou sal1 be brynt, With pik, tar, fire, gunpoldre, and lynt On Arthuris-Sete, or on a hyar hyll.” And this is seventy-seven years before the publication of Camden’s c‘Britannia,” in which it is so named. But this is not the only Arthur‘s Seat in Scotland, as there is one near the top of Loch Long, and a third near Dunnichen in Forfarshire. Conceriiing the adjacent craigs, Lord Hailes in a note to the first volume of his Annals, says of ‘‘ the THE HOLYROOD DAIKY.* (firm a CarOtypr (5. Dr. Tkmmu Keith.) [The circular structure in the background to the right waq a temporary Government store.] adds that he considers (‘ the appellation of Arthur’s Seat to be a corruption of the Gaelic Ard-na-Said, which implies the ‘ Height of Arrows ; ’ than which nothing can be more probable; for no spot of ground is fitter for the exercise of archery, either at butts or rovers, than this; wherefore Ard-na- Sad, by an easy transition, might well be changed to Arthur‘s Seat.” Many have asserted the latter to be a name of yesterday, but it certainly bore it at the date of WalterKennedy’s poem, his “ flyting,” With Dunbar, which was published in 1508 :- 1 precipice now called Salisbury Craigs; some of my readers may wish to be informed of the ongin of a word so familiar to them. In the Anglo- Saxon language, saw, sme, means dty, withered, zcrasfe. The Anglo-Saxon termination of Burgh, Burh, Barrow, BUY^, Biry, implies a castle, town, or habitation ; but in a secondary sense only, for it is admitted that the common original is Beorg a rock . . . . Hence we may conclude, &m>bury, Sbisbuv, Salisbury, is the waste or dg hbifafion. An apt description, when it is remembered that the 1 hills which now pass under the general but corrupted Dr. J. A. Sidey writes: “The Holyrood Dairy, which stood at the enhance to St. Aone’s Yard, had no reference to the F’alaoc (from which it was 19 feet distant) except in =gad to name. It was taken down about 1858. and was kept by R o b McBan, whose sm was afterwards m e of the ‘ Keeperr’ d the F’ab(as Mr. Andrew Kar tdL me) and Rad the old sign in his porrasion. Mr. K a says the dairy Man@ m the Corpont;on of Path, and was held for charitable purpmq and sold frr the sum of money that wuuld yield the ame amount as the reatal of the dairy.” 87 ... Seat.] . ORIGIN OF battle of Camelon, unsupported tradition has always alleged that Arthur‘s Seat ...

Vol. 4  p. 305 (Rel. 0.77)

62 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. vestments, bearing the arm-bone of the saint ; then they passed the Cross, the fountain of which flowed with wine, “ whereof all might drink,” says Leland. Personages representing the angel Gabriel, the Virgin, Justice treading Nero under foot, Force bearing a pillar, Temperance holding a horse’s bit, and Prudence triumphing over Sardanapalus, met them at the Nether Bow; and from there, preceded by music, they proceeded to Holyrood, where a glittering crowd of ecclesiastics, abbots, and friars, headed by the Archbishop of St. Andrews, conveyed them to the high altar, and after Te Deum was sung, they passed through the cloisters into the new palace. Fresh ceremonies took place in a great chamber thereof, the arras of which represented Troy, and the coloured windows of which were filled with the arms of Scotland and England, the Bishop of Moray acting as master of the ceremonies, which seems to have included much ‘‘ kyssing ” all round. On the 8th of August the marriage took place, and all the courtiers wore their richest apparel, James sat in a chair of crimson velvet, “the pannels of that sam gylte under hys cloth of estat, of blue velvet figured with gold.” On his right hand was the Archbishop of York, on his left the Earl of Surrey, while the Scottish prelates and nobles led in the girl-queen, crowned “with a vary nche crowne of gold, garnished with perles,” to the high altar, where, amid the blare of trumpets, the Archbishop of Glasgow solemnised the marriage. The banquet followed in a chamber hung with red and blue, where the royal pair sat under a canopy of cloth of gold ; and Margaret was served at the first course with a slice from “ a wyld borres hed gylt, within a fayr platter.” Lord Grey held the ewer and Lord Huntly the towel. The then famous minstrels of Aberdeen came to Holyrood to sing on this occasion, and were all provided with silver badges, on which the arms of the granite city were engraved. Masques and tournaments followed. James, skilled in all the warlike exercises of the time, appeared often in the lists as the savage knight, attended by followers dressed as Pans and satyrs. The festivities which accompanied this mamage indicate an advancement in refinement and splehdour, chiefly due to the princely nature kindness, and munificence of James IV. ‘‘ The King of Scotland,” wrote the Spanish ambassador Don Pedro de Ayala, “is of middle height ; his features are handsome ; he never cuts his hair or beard, and it becomes him well. He expressed himself gracefully in Latin, French, German, Flemish, Italian, and Spanish. His pronunciation of Spanish was clearer than that of other foreigners. In addition to his own, he speaks the language of the savages (or Celts) who live among the distant mountains and islands. The books which King James reads most are the Bible and those of devotion and prayer. He also studies. old Latin and French chronicles. . . . , . . He never ate meat on Wednesday, Friday, or Saturday. He would not for any consideration mount horseback on Sunday, not even to go to mass, Before transacting any business he heard twa masses. In the smallest matters, and even when indulging in a joke, he always spoke the truth. . . . . The Scots,” continues De Ayala, “are often considered in Spain to be handsomer, than the English. The women of quality were free in their manners and courteous to strangers The Scottish ladies reign absolute mistresses in their own. houses, and the men in all domestic matters yield a. chivalrous obedience to them. The people live well, having plenty of beef, mutton, fowl, and fish. The humbler classes-the women especially-are of a very religious turn of mind. Altogether, I found, the Scots to be a very agreeable and, I must add,, an amiable people.” Such, says the author of the ‘‘ Tudor Dynasty,”’ was the Scotland of the sixteenth century, a period described by modem writers as one of barbarism, ignorance, and superstition ; but thus it was the Spanish ambassador painted the king and his, Scots of the days of Flodden. “ In the year 1507,” says Hawthornden, “James, Prince of Scotland and the Isles, was born at Holyrood House the 21st of January,” and the queen being brought nigh unto death, “the king, overcome by affection and religious vows,” went on a pilgrimage to St. Ninian’s in Galloway, and (‘ at his return findeth the queen recovered.” In 1517 we read of a brawl in Holyrood, when James Wardlaw, for striking Robert Roger to the effusion of blood within ‘‘ my Lord Governor’s chalmer and palace of pece,” was conveyed to the Tron, had his hand stricken through, and was. banished for life, under pain of death. The governor was the Regent Albany, who took office after Flodden, and during his residence at Holyrood he seems to have proceeded immediately with the works at the palace which the fatal battle had interrupted, and which James IV. had continued till his death. The accounts of the treasurer show that building was in progress then, throughout the years 1515 and 1516 ; and after Albany quitted the kingdom for the last time, James V. came to Holyrood, where he was crowned in 1524, and remained there, as Pitscottie tells, for “the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. vestments, bearing the arm-bone of the saint ; then they passed the Cross, the fountain ...

Vol. 3  p. 62 (Rel. 0.77)

Cramond.] CRAMOND BRIG. 317 Robert Bruce, “the King’s meadow and muir of Cramond I’ are mentioned. Among the missing charters of Robert III., are two to William Touris, “of the lands of Berntoun))’ and another to the same of the superiority of King’s Cramond. William Touris, of Cramond, was a bailie of the city in 1482. These Touris were the same family who afterwards poFsessed Inverleith, and whose name appears so often ill Scotstarvit’s “ Calendar.” In I j38 the family seems to have passed to Bristol, in England, as Protestants, Pinkerton suppose$, for and has already been referred to in a preceding chapter. In February, 1763, there died in Barnton House, in the sixty-fourth year of her age, Lady Susannah Hamilton, third daughter of John, Earl of Ruglen, whose son William was styled Lord Daer and Riccarton. She was buried in the chapel royal at Holyrood. In 1771 the Scots Magazine records the demise of John. Viscount Glenorchy “at his house of Barnton, five miles west of Edinburgh.” He was husband of Lady Glenorchy of pious memory. VIEW BELOW GRAMOND BRIG, (Alter a Phufog-rajh by G. W. WiZsom & Co.) 1r1 that year a charter of part of Inverleith is granted to George Touris, of Bristol; but Lord Durie, in 1636, reports a case concerning ‘‘ umquhile James Touris, brother to the laird of Inverleith.” As stated elsewhere, Overbarnton belonged, in ~508, to Sir Robert Barnton, who was comptroller of the household to James V. in 1520, and who acquired the lands by purchase with money found by despoiling the Portuguese ; but a George Maxwell of Barnton, appears among the knights slain at Flodden in 1513. He obtained Barnton by a royal charter in 1460, on his mother’s resignation, and was a brother of John, Lord Maxwell, who also fell at Flodden. This property has changed hands many times. James Elphinston of Barnton, was the first Lord Balmerino, a Lord of the Treasury, In after years it became the property of the Ramsays, one of whom was long known in the sporting world. The quaint old bridge of Cramond is one of the features of the parish, and is celebrated as the scene of that dangerous frolic of James V., related in our account of Holyrood. It consists of three Pointed arches, with massively buttressed piers. It became ruinous in 1607, and was repaired in 1619, 1687, and later still in 1761 and 1776: as a panel in the parapet records. Adjoining it, and high in air above it, is the new and lofty bridge of eight arches, constructed by Rennie. A little to the eastward of the village is Cramond House, a fine old residence within a wooded domain. Sir John Inglis cf Cramond was made ... CRAMOND BRIG. 317 Robert Bruce, “the King’s meadow and muir of Cramond I’ are mentioned. Among ...

Vol. 6  p. 317 (Rel. 0.76)

Holyrood. THE ABBEY PILLAGED. 57 troops retnrned to complete the destruction of the abbey, which in the interval had been completely repaired, and their proceedings are thus recorded by one of themselves, Patten, in his account of the expedition into Scotland :-‘‘ Thear stood to the westward, about a quarter of a mile from our campe, a monasterie; they call it Hollyroode Abbey. brought to the abbey by Abbot Bellenden were ‘‘ the pet bellis and the gret brasin fownt.” During the civil wars in the time of Charles I. this relic was converted into money by the Puritans, and in all probability was utterly destroyed. After the battle of Pinkie, in 1547, the English As touching the moonkes, becaus they wear gone, These repeated destructions at the hands of n wanton enemy, rather than any outrages by the Reformers, were the chief cause that now we find nothing remaining of the church but the fragment of one tower and the shattered nave ; though much . they put them to their pencions at large.” sioners, making first theyr visitacion there, they found the moonkes all gone, but the church and mooch parts of the house well covered with leacie. Soon after thei pluct of the leade and had down the bels, which wear but two, and, according to the statute, did somewhat hearby disgrace the hous. ... THE ABBEY PILLAGED. 57 troops retnrned to complete the destruction of the abbey, which in the ...

Vol. 3  p. 57 (Rel. 0.74)

66 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood. CHAPTER X, HOLYKOOD PALACE (continued). .Queen Mary’s Apartments-Her Amval in Edinburgh-Riot in the Chapel Royal-“ The Queen’s Maries ”-Interview with Knox-Mary’s Marriage with Darnley-The Position of Rizzio-The Murder of Rurio-Burial of Darnley-Marriage of Mary and Bothwell-Mary’s Last Visit to Holyrood-James VI. and the “ Mad” Earl of Bothwcll-Baptism of the Queen of Bohemia and Charles I.-Taylor the Water-poet at Holyrood-Charles I.’s Imprisonment-Palace Burned and Re-built-The Palace before 1 6 5 T h e Present Palace-The Quadranglb The Gallery of the Kings-The Tapestry-The Audience-Chamber. A WINDING stair in the Tower of James V. gives access to the oldest portion of the palace, known .as ‘ I Queen Mary’s Apartments,” on the third floor, and forming the most interesting portion of the whole edifice, To the visitor, in Mary’s bedchamber there seems a solemn gloom which even the summer sunshine cannot brighten, ruddy though the glare may be which streams through that tall window, where we can see the imperial crown upon its octagon turret. The light seems only to lay too bare the fibres of the old oak floor and all the mouldering finery ; a sense of the pathetic, with something of horror and much of sadness, mingles in the thoughtful mind; and much of this was felt even by Dr. Johnson, when he stood there with Boswell on the 15th of August, r773.’ With canopy and counterpane, dark and in shadow, there stands the old pillared bed, with its crimson silk and satin faded into orange, wherein slept, and doubtless too often wept, the fair young Queen of Scotland-she who spent her happy teens at the Bourbon court, her passionate youth so sorrowfully in grim grey Scotland, and who gave up her soul to God at Fotheringay, in premature old age, and with a calm grandeur that never saint surpassed. On the wall there hangs the arras wrought with the fall of Phaeton, now green and amber-tinted, revealing the gloomy little door through which pale Ruthven and stern Darnley burst with their daring associates, and close by is the supper-room from whence the shrieking Rizzio was dragged, and done to death with many a mortal wound. To the imaginative Scottish mind the whole place conjures up scenes and events that can never die. The day on which the queen arrived at Leith, after a thirteen years’ absence from her native land, was, as Knox tells us, the most dull and gloomy in the memory of man. She had come ten days before she was expected, and such preparations as the now impoverished people made-impoverished by foreign and domestic strife since Pinkie had been lost-were far from complete. The ship containing her horses and favourite palfrey had been lawlessly captured by an English admiral ; but her brother, Lord James Stuart, supplied steeds ; and Mary, who was accompanied by her uncles, the Dukes d‘Aumale, Guise, Nemours, the Cardinal of Lorraine, the Grand Prior, the Marquis d’Elbauf, and others, could not restrain her tears of mortification at the gloom and general poverty that appeared on every hand. She made her public entry into the city on the 1st of September, and her reception, though homely, was sincere and cordial, for the Scots of old had a devotion to their native monarchs that bordered on the sublime ; and now the youth and beauty of Mary, and the whole peculiarity of her position, were calculated to engage the interest and affection of her people. The twelve citizens who bore a canopy over her head were apparelled in black velvet gowns and doublets of crimson satin, with velvet bonnets and hose. All citizens in the procession had black silk gowns faced with velvet and satin doublets, while the young craftsmen, who marched in front, wore taffeta. The Upper and Salt Trons, Tolbooth, and Netherbow were all decorated with banners and garlands as she proceeded to Holyrood. The apartments she first occupied were on the ground floor, and BrantBme gives an amusing account of the manner in which the citizens endeavoured to provide for her amusement for several nights, to the grievous annoyance of her refined French atteqdants. There came under her windows,” says he, “ five or six hundred citizens, who gave her a concert of the vilest fiddles and little rebecs, which are as bad as they can be in that country, and accompanied them with singing psalms, but so wretchedly out of tune and concord that nothing could be worse. what melody it was ! what a lullaby for the night ! ” “They were a company of honest men,” according to Knox, “who with instruments of music gave her their salutations at her chamber window.’’ Mary, with policy, expressed her thanks, but removed to a part of the palace beyond the reach of this terrible minstrelsy. She was only nineteen, with few advisers and none on whom she could rely, and was ignorant of the people over whom she had been called to govern. Protestantism was now the only legal Ah !’ ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood. CHAPTER X, HOLYKOOD PALACE (continued). .Queen Mary’s Apartments-Her ...

Vol. 3  p. 66 (Rel. 0.71)

The Lawnmarket. ninety-nine, Portraits of Anderson and his daughter, in Vandyke costumes, the former with a book in his hand, and the latter with a pill the size of a walnut between her fingers, are still preserved in $he house. It was in 1635 that the Doctor first tablature, bearing the date 1690, is the main enT trance to this court, the principal house of which, forming ,its northern side, has a very handsome doorway, peaked in the centre, like an ogee arch, with ornate mouldings that mark the handiwork of ASSEMBLY HALL (From M Engrayingpu6ZisJiedin 1845.) made known the virtues of his pills, which is really a good form of aloetic medicine. In Mylne’s Court, on the north side of the Lawnmarket, we find the first attempt to substitute an open square of some space for the narrow closes which so long contained the town residences of the Scottish noblesse. Under a Roman Doric enthe builder, Robed Mylne, who erected the more modem portions of Holyrood Palace-the seventh royal master-mason, whose uncle’s tomb, on the east side of the Greyfriars churchyard, bears that he- ‘‘ Sixth master-mason to a royal race, Of seven successive kings, sleeps in this placc” ... Lawnmarket. ninety-nine, Portraits of Anderson and his daughter, in Vandyke costumes, the former with a ...

Vol. 1  p. 96 (Rel. 0.7)

214 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith by the enterprising firm, but was conducted by them in conjunction with other departments of their trade. The harbour of Leith is now a noble one, as it underwent vast improvements, at an enormous cost, during a long series of years up to 1877, including various docks, to be described in their place, with the best appliances of a prime port, and great ranges of storehouses, together with two magnificent wooden piers of great length, the west being 3,123 feet, the east 3,530 feet. Both are delightful promenades, and a small boat plies between their extremities, so that a visitor may pass out seaward by one pier and return by the other. The formidable Martello Tower, circular in form, bomb-proof, formed of beautiful white stone, and most massive in construction, occupies a rock called, we believe, of old, the Mussel Cape, but which forms a continuation of the reef known as the Black Rocks, It stafids 1,500 feet eastward, and something less than 500 south of the eastern pier-head, and 3,500 feet distant from the base of the ancient signal-tower on the shore. It was built to defend what was then the entrance of the harbour, during the last long war with France, at the cost of A17,ooo ; but now, owing to the great guns and military inventions of later times, it is to the fortifications on Inchkeith that the port of Leith must look for protection. CHAPTER XXXII. MEMORABILIA OF THE SHIPPING OF LEITH AND ITS MARITIME AFFAIRS. (Old Shipping laws-Early Whale Fishing--Letters of Marque against Hamburg-Captures of English Ships, 16p-x-First recorded Tonnage of Leith-Imports-Arrest of Captain Hugh Palliser-Shore Dues, 1763-Wors’ Strike, 17g2-Tonnage in 188I-Passenger Traffic, etc. -Letters of Marque-Exploits of ~me-Glance at Shipbuilding. THE people of Scotland must, at a very early period, have turned their attention to the art in which they now excel-that of shipbuilding and navigation, for in these and other branches of industry the monks led the way. So far back as 1249, the Count of St. Paul, as Matthew of Paris records, had a large ship built for him at Inverness: and history mentions the fleets of William the Lion and his successor, Alexander 11.; and it has been conjectured that these were furnished by the chiefs of the isles, so many of whom bore lymphads in their coats-of-arms. During the long war with the Edwards, Scottish ships rode at anchor in their ports, cut out and carried off English craft, till Edward III., as Tytler records from the “ Rotuli Scotiz,” taunted his admirals and captains with cowardice in being unable to face the Scots and Flemings, to whom they dared not give battle. In 1336 Scottish ships swept the Channel coast, plundering Guernsey, Jersey, and the Isle of Wight; and Tyrrel records that the fleet which did so was under the command of David Bruce, but this seems doubtfuL When Edward of England was efigaged in the prosecution of that wicked war which met its just reward on the field of Bannockbum, he had two Scottish traitors who led his ships, named John of hrn, and his son, Alan of Argyle, whose names have deservedly gone to oblivion. We first hear of shipping in any quantity in the Firth of Forth in the year 1411, when, as Burchett and Rapin record, a squadron of ten English ships of war, under Sir Robert Umfraville, Vice-Admiral of England, ravaged both shores of the estuary for fourteen days, burned many vessels-among them one named the Greaf GalZiof of Scotland--and returned with so many prizes and such a mass of plunder, that he brought down the prices of everything, and was named “ Robin Mend-the-Market.” The Wars of the Roses, fortunately for Scotland, gave her breathing-time, and in that period she gathered wealth, strength, and splendour ; she took a part in European politics, and under the auspices of James IV. became a naval power, so much so, that we find by a volume culled from the “Archives of Venice,” by Mr. Rawdon Brown, there are many proofs that the Venetians in those days were watching the influence of Scotland in counteracting that of England by land and sea Between the years 1518 and 1520, the “Burgh Records ’ have some notices regarding the skippers and ships of Leith ; and in the former year we find that “ the maner of fraughting of schips of auld ” is in form following: and certainly it reads mysteriously. “ Alexander Lichtman hes lattin his schip cdlit the Mairfene, commonly till fraught to the nychtbouns of the Toune for thair guidis to be furit to Flanders, for the fraught of xix s. gr. and xviij s. gr. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith by the enterprising firm, but was conducted by them in conjunction with other ...

Vol. 6  p. 274 (Rel. 0.7)

314 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. (The West Bow. thundering back again; being neither more nor less than Satan come in one of his best equipages to take home the major and his sister after they had spent a night’s leave of absence in their terrestrial dwelling.” Scott also tellsus inhis “Letters on Demonology,” that bold indeed was the urchin who approached the gloomy house, at the risk of seeing thC major’s enchanted staff parading the desolate apartments, .or hearing the hum of the necromantic wheel which procured for his sister such a reputation as a spinner. About the beginning of the present century, according to the author above quoted, when Weir’s house was beginning to be regarded with less superstitious terror, an attempt was made by the luckless proprietor to find one bold enough to ;become his tenant, and such an adventurer was yrocured in the person of a dissipated old soldier named William Patullo, whose poverty rendered him glad to possess a house at any risk, on the low terms at which it was offered; and the greatest interest was felt by people of all ranks in the city, on its becoming known that Major Weir’s house was about to have a mortal tenant at last ! Patullo and his spouse felt rather flattered by the interest they excited ; but on the first night, as the venturesome couple lay abed, fearful and wakeful, “a dim uncertain light proceeding from the sathered embers of their fire, and all being silent around them-they suddenly saw a form’ like that of a calf, which came forward to the bed, and setting its fore-feet upon the stock, looked steadfastly at the unfortunate pair. When it had contemplated them thus for a few minutes, to their great relief it took itself away, and, slowly retiring, vanished from their sight. As might be expected, they deserted the house next morning; and for another half century no other attempt was made to embank this part of the world of light from the aggressions of the world of darkness.” But even the world of spirits could not withstand the Improvement Commission, and the spring of 1878 saw the house of the wizard numbered with the things that are no more in this quarter of Edinburgh, and to effect the removal of which the Commissioners gave freely the sum of ~ 4 0 0 , 0 0 0 . Behind the abode of the major in the West Bow, but entered from Johnstone’s Close, Lawnmarket, was another very remarkable old house which was demolished about the same time. Memorials,” that it exhibits an interior ‘‘ abounding with plain arched recesses and corbelled projections, scattered throughout in the most irregular and lawless fashion, Of this building Wilson says in his and with narrow windows thrust into the oddest corners, or up even above the very cornice of the ceiling, in order to catch every wandering ray of light, amid the jostling of its pent-up neighbourhood. A view of the largest apartment is given in the Abbotsford edition of the Waverley novels, under the name of the ‘ Hall of the Knights of St. John, St John’s Close, Canongate.’ ” But he adds that he had failed in every attempt to obtain any clue to the early history of this mysterious edifice which tradition thus associated with the soldier-monks of Torphichen. Discoveries made in the course of its demolition added to the mystery concerning it. In the stair leading from the court to the hall there was a quaint holy-water font; and in clearing out the interior, it was found that the ceiling had at one time been beautifully painted with flowers and geometric designs. In the great open chimney-place of the hall there were, singularly enough, two mall windows; and in the heart of the massive walls were found secret stairs that led from the hall to rooms above it In addition to these secret passages, the walls disclosed four recesses that had been faced with stone, and which concealed the relics of more than one crime or mystery that will never be unravelled. One held the skeleton of a child, with its cap and part of its dress; and in the other there were quantities of human bones. In a built-up cupboatd a large vertebral bone of a whale was discovered. ‘‘ The beams of the hall,” says the Scotsman of 8th February, 1878, ‘( and indeed of the whole house, were of oak, which, according to tradition, was grown on the Burghmuir, and, with the exception of the ends which had been built into the wall, the wood was found to be perfectly sound and beautifully grained.” Immediately opposite the close that led to the house of Major Weir, and occupying nearly the site of the present St John’s Free Church, stood an old tenement, which bore the date 1602, with the arms of the Somerville family, and the initials P. S. and J. W., being those of a once worthy and wealthy magistrate and his wife, whose son Bartholomew Somerville was a benefactor to the University of Edinburgh, when that institution was in its infancy. The architrave of the door bore also the legend IN. DOMINO. CONFIDO. A narrow spiral stair led to a lofty wainscoted room, with a fine carved oak ceilipg, on the second floor. This was the first Edinburgh Assembly Room, off which was a closet or recess, forming an out-shot over the street, wherein the musickm ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. (The West Bow. thundering back again; being neither more nor less than Satan come in ...

Vol. 2  p. 314 (Rel. 0.7)

322 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur‘s Seat simultaneously halted, and the royal salute given, 1 the hour of need, of the freedom and integrity of caught up by the crowds on the hill, and rolled back fo the plain, again .and again to burst forth with redoubled energy, until it merges into one the silent grandeur of the scene, broken only by the National Anthem, sent a thrill of heart-stirring awe through the assembled multitude. But on a sudden the death-like silence is broken, and the pent-up enthusiasm of the Volunteers breaks forth like the bursting of some vast reservoir. A cheer, such as only Britons have in them to give, goes forth with the full power of 22,000 loyal throatsa cheer such as old Holyrood never heard before, Castle, August 26th, “the spectacle yesterday presented to her Majesty was an admirable sequel to the great review held recently at the empire.’’ On the sameground, in August 1881, and before a vast multitude, Her Majesty reviewed a force of 40,000 Scottish Volunteers. So many men under arms had not been massed together in Scotland since James IV. marched to Flodden. “ Although unhappily marred by continuous rain,” says the Duke of Cambridge’s order, dated Edinburgh est accident occurred, and the slopes of the great hills were bared of their multitudes as if by magic. The great review was over, and in due time came the following order from the Adjutant-General Sir J. Yorke Scarlett :- “Horse Guards, August Ioth, 1860. “ The Adjutant-General has received the Queen’s commands to convey her thanks .to the several corps of Artillery and Rifle Volunteers assembled at Edinburgh on the 7th instant, and to assure them of the satisfaction and gratification with which Her Majesty beheld the magnificent spectacle presented to her. I‘ Her Majesty could not see without admiration the soldier-like bearing of the different corps as they passed before her ; and she finds in the high state of efficiency to which they have attained in an incredibly short space of time another proof that she may at all times surely rely on the loyalty and patriotism of her people for the defence, in donald; and perhaps none were more applauded in the march past than the London Scottish, led by Lord Elcho. The bands of the Black Watch and 5th Fusileers were placed beside the saluting post, whereon was hoisted the royal standard, as borne in Scotland, the lion rampant being first and fourth in the quarterings. Undeterred by the incessant deluge of rain, the Queen remained till the last, and so did the rest of the royal party; but even ere the second division had defiled before her the vast slopes of Arthur’s Seat had been greatly denuded of spectators, “ and the great mass of umbrellas slipped down and gathered about the Holyrood gates, egress through which was still denied,” owing to certain instructions adapted evidently to a fair-weather gathering. It was greatly to the credit of theseScottish troops, and a proof of their excellent discipline, that to the , very close of that trying and harassing day, their behaviour was quiet, orderly, and admirable to the last, and not a single accident occurred. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur‘s Seat simultaneously halted, and the royal salute given, 1 the hour of need, ...

Vol. 4  p. 322 (Rel. 0.69)

1 MARRIAGE OF MARY AND BOTHWELL. 71 dragged through the bed-room to the door of the presence-chamber, where the conspirators gathered . about him and completed the bloody outrage. So eager were all to take part in the murder that they frequently wounded each other, eliciting greater curses and yells ; and the body of Rizzio, gashed by fifty-six wounds, was left in a pool of blood, with the king’s dagger driven to the hilt in it, in token that he had sanctioned the murder. After a time the corpse was flung down-stairs, stripped naked, dragged to the porter‘s lodge, and treated with every indignity. Darnley and the queen were meanwhile alone together in the cabinet, into which a lady rushed to announce that Rizzio was dead, as she had seen the body. “Is it so?” said the weeping queen ; “ then I will study revenge ! ” Then she swooned, but was roused by the entrance of Ruthven, who, reeking with blood; staggered into a chair and called for wine. After receiving much coarse and unseemly insolence, the queen exclaimed, ‘‘I trust that God, who beholdeth all this from the high heavens, will avenge my wrohgs, and move that which shall be born of me to root out you and your treacherous posterity ! ” -a denunciation terribly fulfillkd by the total destruction of the house of Ruthven in the reign of her son, James VI. In the middle of a passage leading from the quadrangle to the ,chapel is shown a flat square stone, which is said to mark the grave of Rizzio ; but it is older than his day, and has probably served for the tomb of some one else. The floor at the outer door of Mary’s apartments presents to this day a dark irregular stain, called Rizzio’s blood, tlius exciting the ridicule of those who do not consider the matter. The floor is of great antiquity here-manifestly alder than that of the adjacent gallery, laid in the time of Charles I. “We know,” says Robert Chambers,in his “Book of Days,” “ that the stain has been shown there since a time long antecedent to that extreme modern curiosity regarding historical matters which might have induced an imposture, for it is alluded to by the son of Evelyn as being .shown in I 7 a a.” Joseph Rizzio, who arrived in Scotland soon after his brother’s murder, was promoted to his vacant office by the queen, and was publicly named as one of the abettors of Morton and Bothwell in the murder of Darnley-in which, with true Italian instinct, he might readily have had a hand. After the tragedy at the Kirk of Field in 1567, the body of Dmley was brought to Holyrood, where Michael Picauet, the queen’s apothecary, embalmed it, by her order; the treasurer’s accounts, dated Feb. Izth, contain entries for “ drogges, spices-colis, tabbis, hardis, barrelis,” and other matters tiecessary “ for bowalling of King’s Grace,” who was interred in the chapel royal at night, in presence of only the Lord Justice Clerk Bellenden, Sir James Tracquair, and others. After Bothwell’s seizure of Mary’s person, at the head of I,OOO horse, and his production of the famous bond, signed by the most powerful nobles in Scotland, recommending him as the most fitting husband for her-a transaction in which her enemies affirm she was a willing actor-their marriage ceremony took place in the great hall of the palace on the 15th of May, 1567, at four o’clock in the morning, a singular hour, for which it is difficult to account, unless it be, that Mary had yielded in despair at last. There it was performed by the reformed prelate Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney, together with Knox’s coadjutor, Craig, according to the Protestant form, and on the same day:in private, according to the Catholic ritual. To the Latter, perhaps, Birrel refers when he says they were married in the chapel royal. Only five of the nobles were present, and there were no rejoicings in Edinburgh, where the people looked on with grief and gloom j and on the following morning there was fouiid affixed to the palace gate the ominous line from Ovid’s Fasti, book v. : “Mense malus Maio nubere vuZgus aif.” The revolt of the nobles, the flight oT Bothwell, and the surrender of Mary at Carberry to avoid bloodshed, quickly followed, and the last visit she paid to her palace of Holyrood was when, under a strong guard, she was brought thither a prisoner from the Black Turnpike, on the 18th of June and ere the citizens could rescue her ; as a preliminary step to still more violent proceedings, she was secretly taken from Holyrood at ten at night, without having even a change of raiment, mounted on a miserable hack, and compelled to ride at th;rty miles an hour, escorted by the murderers Ruthven and Lindsay, who consigned her a prisoner to the lonely castle of Lochleven, where she signed the enforced abdication which placed her son upon. the throne. Holyrood was one of the favourite residences of the latter, and the scene of many a treaty and council during his reign in Scotland, In the great hall there, on Sunday, the 23rd of October, he created a great number of earls with much splendour of ceremony, with a corresponding number of knights. Another Earl of Bothwell, the horror of James VI., now figures in history, eldest son of the ... 1 MARRIAGE OF MARY AND BOTHWELL. 71 dragged through the bed-room to the door of the presence-chamber, where the ...

Vol. 3  p. 71 (Rel. 0.69)

THE PRECEPTORY OF ST. ANTHONY. 215 Leith] not making any deliberate assault ; but a pistol shot was heard, and in a few minutes the Sieur de la Roche lay dead, with a sword thrust in his body, while Isaac had a finger nearly hewn OK The guard now came on the scene, and Mowat was found under an outer stair, with a bent sword in his hand, bloody from point to hilt, his hand wounded, and the sleeves of his coat stained with blood. On seeing the dead body, he viewed it without emotion, and merely remarked that he wondered who had slain him. The Master, Mowat, and James Sinclair the writer, were all tried for the murder of Elias Poiret before the Court of Justiciary, but the jury brought in a verdict of not proven. The whole affair might have been easily explained, but for heat of temper, intemperance, and the ready resort to arms so usual in those days. The three Frenchmen concerned in it were Protestant refugees who were serving as privates in the Scottish Life Guards. The Mastet of Tarbet became Earl of Cromarty in 1714 and survived the death of Poiret forty years. Two of his sons, who were officers in the Scots-Dutch Brigade, perished at sea, and his eldest, the third and last Earl of Cromarty, was nearly brought to Tower Hill in 1746 for his loyalty to the House of Stuart. No. 141 Kirkgate was long the place of business of Mr. Alexander Watson, who is chiefly remarkable as being the nephew and close correspondent of a very remarkable man, who frequently resided with him-Robert Watson, who was made Principal of the Scots College at Paris by the Emperor Napoleon I., an office which he held for six years. It was to his nephew at Leith, after his escape to Rome (having been tried at the Old Bailey as President of a Corresponding Society), he confided his discovery of a large mass of correspondence known as “ The Stuart Papers,” which he purchased (as stated in the Courunt for 1819.) In one of his letters, dated London, 6th April, 1818, he states that they consist ofhalf a million of pieces, and are valued at ~300,000. ‘‘ The Pope, however, took military possession of them, under the protest that they were of too much importance to belong to a private individual. I protested against the arbitrary proceedings of his Holiness. The Prince Regent sent two ships of war to Civita Vecchia to bring them to London, and they are now in Carlton House.” To his nephew in the Kirkgate he subsequently wrote that a Royal Commissiolr under the Great Seal (including Sir James Mackintosh) was a p pointed to examine these valuable papers ; and in 1824 he wrote that amongst other things of some value which have fallen into my possession, are the carriage and tent-bed of Bonaparte, taken at the battle of Waterloo. Further events will decide to what purposes I may apply it (the carriage), though it is probable I shall keep it for my own use.” This singular person committed suicide in 1838, by strangling himself in a London tavern, in the ninety-second year of his age--“a case of suicide,” it was said, “unparalleled in the annals of sorrow.” On the east side of the Kirkgate, to take the edifices in succession there, there was founded by Robert Logan of Restalrig, in 1435, a preceptory for the canons of St. Anthony, the only establkhment of the kind in Scotland. Arnot, in his history, unthinkingly mentions ‘‘ the monastery of Knights Templars of St. Anthony” at Leith. These canons, says Chalmers, “ seem to have been an order of religious knights, not Templars. The only document in which they are called Templars is a charter of James VI. in 1614, giving away their establishment and revenues; and this mistake of an ignorant clerk is wildly repeated by Arnot.” Their church, burying-ground, and gardens were in St. Anthony’s Wynd, an alley off the Kirkgate ; and the first community was brought from St Anthony of Vienne, the seat of the order in France They were formed in honour of St. Anthony, the patriarch of monks, who was born at Coma, a village of Heraclea on the borders of Arcadia, in A.D.‘z~I, and whose sister was placed in the first convent that is recorded in history. A hermit by habit, he dwelt long in the ruins of an old castle that overlooked the Nile; and after his death (said to have been in 356) his body was deposited in the church of La Motte St. Didier, at Vienne, when, according to old traditions, those labouring under the pest known as St. ,4nthony’s Fire-a species of erysipelas-were miraculously cured by praying at his shrine. Gaston, a noble of Vienne, and his son Gironde, filled with awe, we are told, by these wonderful cures, devoted their lives and estates to found a hospital for those who laboured under this disease, and seven others joined them in their attendance on the sick; and on these Hospitaller Brethren Boniface VIII. bestowed the Benedictine Priory of Vienne, giving them the rules of St. Austin, and declaring the Abbot General of this new orderthe Canons Regular of St, Anthony. The superiors of the subordinate preceptones were called commanders, says Alban Butler, “ and their houses are called commandenes, as when they were Hospitallers” . ... PRECEPTORY OF ST. ANTHONY. 215 Leith] not making any deliberate assault ; but a pistol shot was heard, and in ...

Vol. 6  p. 215 (Rel. 0.68)

any goods on hand in their shops, everything had to be ordered long before it was required ; and it was always usual for the goldsmith and his customer to adjourn together to the B ~ j e n Hole, an ancient baker’s shop, the name of which has proved a puzzle to local antiquarians, or to John’s Coffee House, to adjust the order and payment, through the medium of a dram or a stoup of mellow ale. But, as time passed on, and the goldsmiths of Edinburgh became more extensive in their views, capital, and ambition, the old booths in the Parliament Close were in quick succession abandoned for ever. The workshop of George Heriot existed in this neighbourhood till the demolition of Beth’s Wynd and the adjacent buildings. There were three contiguous small shops, with projecting wooden superstructures above them, that extended in a line, between the door of the old Tolbooth and that of the 1,aigh Councilhouse. They stood upon the site of the entrancehall of the present Signet Library, and the central of these three shops was the booth of the immortal George Heriot, the founder of the great hospital, the goldsmith to King James VI.-the good-humoured, honest, Humble though this booth, after the execution of “the bonnie Earl of Gowrie,” when the extravagance of Anne of Denmark-a devoted patron of George Heriot -rendered the king’s private exchequer somewhat impaired, he was not above paying visits to some of the wealthier citizens in the Lawnmarket or Parliament Square, and, among. others, to the royal goldsmith. The latter being. bred to his father’s business, to which in that age was usually added the occupation of a banker, was GEORGE HERIOT’S DRINKING CUP. (De-d Sy himsew) and generous “Jingling Geordie” of the ‘‘ Fortunes of Nigel.” It measured only seven feet square ! The back windows looked into Beth’s Wynd ; and, to show the value of local tradition, it long appeared that this booth belonged 10 George Heriot, and it became a confirmed fact when, on the demolition of the latter place, his name was found carved above the door, on the stone lintel. His forge and bellows, as well as a stone crucible and lid, were also found on clearing away the ruins, and are now carefully preserved in the museum of the hospital, to which they were presented by the late Mr. Robertson, of the Commercial Bank, a grateful ‘‘ Auld Herioter.” admitted a member of the Incorporation of Goldsniiths on the 28th May, 1588. In 1597 he was appointed goldsmith to Queen Anne, and soon after to the king. Several of the accounts for jewels furnished by him to the queen are inserted in Constable’s “ Life of Heriot,” published in 1822. It is related that one day he had been sent for by the king, whom he found seated in one of the rooms at Holyrood, before a fire composed of cedar, or some other perfumed wood, which cast a pleasant fragrance around, and the king mentioned incidentally that it was quite as costly as it was agreeable, “ If your majesty will visit me at my booth in the Parliament Close,” quoth Heriot, “I will show you a fire more costly than that.” ‘‘ Say you so ! ” said the king ; ‘‘ then I will.” On doing so, he was surprised to find that Heriot had only a coal fire of the usual kind. “Is this, then, your costly fire?” asked the king. “ Wait, your highness, till I get my fuel,” replied Heriot, who from an old cabinet or almrie took a bond for Az,ooo which he had lent to James, and, laying it on the fire, he asked, laughingly, “Now, whether is your majesty’s fire in Holyrood or mine the most costly ?” “ Certainly yours, Master Heriot ! ” replied the king. ... goods on hand in their shops, everything had to be ordered long before it was required ; and it was always ...

Vol. 1  p. 175 (Rel. 0.68)

THE EARLY CHURCH. I39 St. Giles’s Church.] of that hospital used to present a bowl of ale to away. The first stone church was probably of every felon as he passed their gate to Newgate. Among the places enumerated by Simon Dunelmensis, of Durham, as belonging to the see .of Lindkfarn in 854, when Earnulph, who removed it to Chester-le-Street, was bishop, he includes that of Edinburgh. From this it must be distinctly inferred that a church of some kind existed on the long slope that led to Dun Edin, but no authentic record of it occurs till the reign of King Alexander II., when Baldred deacon of Lothian, and John perpetual vicar of the church of St. Giles at Edinburgh, attached their seals to copies of certain Papal bulls and charters of the church of Megginche, a dependency of the church of Holyrood ; and (according to the Liber Cartaruni Sanctae Crucis) on the Sunday before the feast of St. Thomas, in the year 1293, Donoca, daughter of John, son of Herveus, resigned certain Iands to the monastery of Holyrood, in full consis-, Norman architecture. A beautiful Norman dborway, which stood below the third window from the west, was wantonly destroyed towards the end of the eighteenth century. ‘‘ This fragment,” says Wilson, “sufficiently enables us to picture the little parish church of St. Giles in the reign of David I. Built in the massive style of the early Norman period, it would consist simply of a nave and chancel, united by a rich Norman chancel arch, altogether occupying only a portion of the centre of the present nave. Small circular-headed windows, decorated with zig-zag mouldings, would admit the light to its sombre interior; while its west front was in all probability surmounted by a simple belfry, from whence the bell would summon the natives of the hamlet to matins and vespers, and with slow measured sounds toll their knell, as they were laid in the neighbouring churchyard. This ancient church was never entire4 detory, held in the church of St. Giles. Its solid masonry was probably very is again mentioned, when William the bishop of St. forces of Edward 11. in 1322, when Holyrood was ,%ndrews confirmed numerous gifts bestowed upon spoiled, or by those of his son in 1335, when the abbey and its dependencies. In 1359 King the whole country was wasted with fire and sword. David II., by a charter under his great seal, con- The town was again subjected to the like violence, Catharine in the church of St. Giles all the lands I conflagration of 1385, when the English army .of Upper Merchiston, the gift of Roger Hog, under Richard 11. occupied the town for five days, burgess of Edinburgh. It is more than probable and then laid it and the abbey of Holyrood in 961, and built up again within the year. Of what ’ the original fabric by the piety of private donors, must the materials have been? asks Maitland. I or by the zeal of its own clergy to adapt it to Burned again in 1187, it was rebuilt on arches of, the wants of the rising town. In all the changes .stone--“ a wonderful work,” say the authors of the that it underwent for above seven centuries, the day. I original north door, with its beautifully recessed A portion of the church of St. Giles was arched ’ Norman arches and grotesque decorations, always I with stone in 1380, as would appear from a con- commanded the veneration of the innovators, and I tract noted by Maitland, who has also preserved remained as a precious relic of the past, until the the terms of another contract, made in 1387, be- tasteless improvers of the eighteenth century de-. tween the provost and community of Edinburgh I molished it without a cause, and probably for no on one hand, an? two masons on the other, for the better reason than to evade the cost of its repair !” construction of five separate vaulted chapels along I In the year 1462 great additions and repairs. the south side of the church, the architectural appear to have been in progress, for the Town. features of which prove its existence at a period Council then passed a law that all persons selling I long before any of these dates, and when Edin- corn before it was entered should forfeit one chal- I der to church work. In the year 1466 it was I burgh was merely a cluster of thatched huts. The edifice, as it now stands, is a building erected into a collegiate church by James III.,. including the work of many different and remote the foundation consisting (according to Keitli and I periods. By all men of taste and letters in Edin- others) of a provost, curate, sixteen prebendaries,. burgh it has been a general subject of regret that sacristan, beadle, minister of the choir, and four the restoration in 1829 was conducted in a man- choristers. - Various sums of money, lands, tithes, ner so barbarous and irreverent, that many of its &c., were appropriated for the support of the new In an Act ’ molished. passed in 1319, in the reign of Robert I., the church I partially affected by the ravages of the invading firmed to the chaplain officiating at the altar of St. i probably with results little more lasting, by the that the first church on the site was of wood. St. i ashes. The Norman architecture disappeared Paul’s Cathedral, at London, was burned down in I piecemeal, as chapels and aisles were added to ... EARLY CHURCH. I39 St. Giles’s Church.] of that hospital used to present a bowl of ale to away. The first ...

Vol. 1  p. 139 (Rel. 0.68)

Holyrood.] THE ABBEY CHURCH IN RUINS. 59 and cannon were two ship’s masts, fully rigged, one on the right bearing the Scottish flag, another on the left bearing the English. ‘‘ Above all these rose the beautiful eastem window, shedding a flood of light along the nave, eclipsing the fourteen windows of the clerestory. The floor was laid with ornamental tiles, some portions of which are yet preserved.” In the royal yacht there came to Leith from London an altar, vestments, and images, to complete the restoration of the church to its ancient uses. As if to hasten on the destruction of his house, James VII., not content with securing to his Catholic subjects within the precincts of Holyrood that degree of religious toleration now enjoyed by every British subject, had mass celebrated there, and established a college of priests, whose rules were published on the zznd of March, 1688, inviting people to send their children there, to be educated gratis, as Fountainhall records. He also appointed a Catholic printer, named Watson (who availed himself of the protection afforded by the sanctuary) to be “ King‘s printer in Holyrood ;” and obtained a right from the Privy Council to print all the “ prognostications at Edinburgh,” an interesting fact which accounts for the number of old books bearing Holyrood on their title-pages. Prior to all this, on St. Andrew’s Day, 30th November, the whole church was sprinkled with holy water, re-consecrated, and a sermon was preached in it by a priest named Widerington. Tidings of the landing of William of Orange roused the Presbyterian mobs to take summary vengeance, and on being joined by the students of the University, they assailed the palace and chapel royal. The guard, IOO strong-“ the brats of Belia1”- under Captain Wallace, opened a fire upon them, killing twelve and wounding many more, but they were ultimately compelled to give way, and the chapel doors were burst open. The whole interior was instantly gutted and destroyed, and the magnificent throne, stalls, and orgab, were ruthlessly tom down, conveyed to the Cross, and there consigned to the flames, amid the frantic shrieks and yells of thousands. Not content with all this, in a spirit of mad sacrilege, the mob, now grown lawless, burst into the royal vault, tore some of the leaden coffins asunder, and, according to Amot, camed off the lids. By the middle of the eighteenth century the rooG which had become ruinous, was restored with flagstones in a manner too ponderous for the ancient arches, which gave way beneath the superincumbent weight on the 2nd of December, 1768; and again the people of Edinburgh became seized by a spirit of the foullest desecration, and from thenceforward, until a comparafively recent period, the ruined church remained open to all, and was appropriated ‘ tu the vilest uses. Grose thus describes what he saw when the rubbish had been partly cleared away :-“ When we lately visited it we saw in the middle of the chapel the columns which had been borne down by the weight of the roof. Upon looking into the vaults which were open, we found that what had escaped the fury of the mob at the Revolution became a prey to the mobwho ransacked it after it fell. In A.D. 1776 we had seen the body of James V. and others in their leaden coffins; the coffins are now stolen. The head of Queen Margaret (Magdalene?), which was then entire, and even beautiful, and the skull of Damley, were also stolen, and were last traced to the collection of a statuary in Edinburgh.” In 1795 the great east window was blown out in a violent storm, but in 1816 was restored from its own remains, which lay scattered about on the ground. In the latter year the north-west tower, latterly used as a vestry, was still covered by an ogee leaden roof. The west front of what remains, though the W0i-k perhaps of different periods, is in the most beautiful style of Early English, and the boldly-cut heads in its sculptured arcade and rich variety of ornament in the doorway are universally admired. The windows above it were additions made so latelyas the time of Charles I., and the inscriptions which that upfortunate king had carved on the Ornamental tablet between them is a striking illustration of the vanity of human hopes. One runs :- Ultimately this also fell. “Basiluam ham, Carolus Rex, @firnus imtaxravit, 1633.” The other :- “HE SHALL ESTABLISH ANE HOUSE FOR MY NAME, AND I WILL ESTABLISH THE THRONE OF HIS KINGDOM FOR EVER.” In the north-west tower is amarble monument to Robert, Viscount Belhaven, who was interred there in January, 1639. His nephews, Sir Archibald and Sir Robert Douglas, placed there that splendid memorial to perpetuate hisvirtues as a man and steadiness as a patriot. A row of tombs of Scottish nobility and others lie in the north aisle. The Roxburgh aisle adjoins the royal vault in the south aisle, and in front of it lies the tomb of the Countess of Errol, who died in 1808. Close by. it is that of the Bishop of Orkney, already referred to. “ A flattering inscription enumerates the. bishop’s titles, and represents this worldly hypocrite ... THE ABBEY CHURCH IN RUINS. 59 and cannon were two ship’s masts, fully rigged, one on the right ...

Vol. 3  p. 59 (Rel. 0.67)

Holyrocd.] HOWIESON OF BRAEHEAD. 63 space of one year, with great triumph and mem ness.” He diligently continued the works begur by his gallant father, and erected the north-wes towers, which have survived more than one con flagration, and on the most northern of which coulc be traced, till about 1820, his name, IACOBVS RE) SCOTORVM, in large gilt Roman letters. In 1528 blood was again shed in Holyrooc during a great review of Douglases and Hamilton: held there prior to a march against the Englis€ ’borders. A groom of the Earl of Lennox perceiv ing among those present Sir James Hamilton o Finnart, who slew that noble at Linlithgow, intent or vengeance, tracked him into the palace “by a dad staircase which led to a narrow gallery,” and then attacked him, sword in hand. Sir James en deavoured to defend himself by the aid of hi: . velvet mantle, but fell, pierced by six wounds, nonc of which, however, were mortal. The gates wen closed, and while a general mClCe was on the poin of ensuing between the Douglases and Hamil tons, the would-be assassin was discovered With hi: bloody weapon, put to the torture, and then hi: right hand was cut 04 on which “he observed with a sarcastic smile, that it was punished les: than it deserved for having failed to revenge tht murder of his beloved master.’’ James V. was still in the palace in 1530, as we find in the treasurer‘s accounts for that year : ‘‘ Item, tc the Egiptianis that dansit before the king in Holy rud House, 40s.” He was a monarch whose pure benevolence of intention often rendered his roman. tic freaks venial, if not respectable, since from his anxiety to learn the wants and wishes of his humbler subjects he was wont, like Il Boadocan4 or Haroun Alrdschid, to traverse the vicinity of his palaces in the plainest of disguises ; and two comic songs, composed by himself, entitled “We’ll gang nae mair a-roving,” and “The Gaberlunzie Man,” are said to have been founded on his adventures while masked as a beggar; and one of these, which nearly cost him his life at Cramond, some five miles frum Holyrood, is given in Scott’s ‘‘ Tales of a Grandfather.” While visiting a pretty peasant girl in Cramond village he was beset by four or five persons, against whom he made a stand with his sword upon the high and narrow bridge that spans the Almond, in a wooded hollow. Here, when well-nigh beaten, and covered with blood, he was succoured and rescued by a peasant armed with a flail, who conducted him into a barn, where he bathed his wounds; and in the course of conversation James discovered that the summit of his deliverer’s earthly wishes was to be proprietor of the little farm of Braehead, on which he was then a labourer. Aware that it was Crown property, James said, ‘‘ Come to Holyrood, and inquire for the gudeman of Ballengeich,” referring to a part of Stirling Castle which he was wont to adopt as a cognomen. The peasant came as appointed, and was met by the king in his disguise, who conducted him through the palace, and asked him if he wished to see the king. John Howison-for such was his name-expressed the joy it would give him, provided he gave no offence. But how shall I know him?” he added. “ Easily,” replied James, “All others will be bareheaded, the king alone will wear his bonnet.” Scared by his surroundings and the uncovered crowd in the great hall, John Howison looked around him, and then said, naively, “The king must be either you or me, for all but us are bareheaded.” James and his courtiers laughed ; but he bestowed upon Howison the lands of Braehead, ‘‘ on condition that he and his successors should be ready to present an ewer and basin for the king to wash his hands when His Majesty should come to Holyrood or pass the bridge of Cramond. Accordingly, in the year 1822, when George IV. came to Scotland, a descendant of John Howison, whose hmily still possess the estate, appeared at a solemn festival, and offered His Majesty water from a silver ewer, that he might perform the service by which he held his land.” Such pranks as these were ended by the king‘s marriage in I 53 7 to the Princess Magdalene, the beautiful daughter of Francis I., with unwonted splendour in the cathedral of Notre Dame, in presence of the Parliament of Paris, of Francis, the Queens of France and Navarre, the Dauphin, Duke of Orleans, md all the leading peers of Scotland and o( France. On the 27th of May the royal pair landed at Leith, amid every display of welcome, md remained a few days at Holyrood, tin the mthusiastic citizens prepared to receive them in state with a procession of magnificence. Magdalene, over whose rare beauty consump- :ion seemed to spread a veil more tender and rlluring, was affectionate and loving in nature. On anding, in the excess of her love for James, ;he knelt down, and, kissing the soil, prayed God :o bless the land of her adoption-scotland, and ts people. The “ Burgh Records ” bear witness how anxious he Provost and citizens were to do honour to the )ride of ‘‘ the good King James. All beggars were varned off the streets : ‘lane honest man of ilk :lose or two,” were to see this order enforced ; the vbbish near John Makgill’s house and “the litster ... HOWIESON OF BRAEHEAD. 63 space of one year, with great triumph and mem ness.” He diligently ...

Vol. 3  p. 63 (Rel. 0.67)

Holyrood.1 THE HOUSEHOLD TROOPS. . 75 ’ blew gowns, each having got thirty-five shillings in a purse, came up from the abbey to the great church, praying all along for His Majesty. Sermon being ended, His Grace entertained all the nobles and gentlemen with a magnificent feast and open table. After dinner the Lord Provost and Council went to the Cross, where was a green arbour loaded with oranges and lemons, wine running liberally for divers hours at eight conduits, to the great solace of the indigent commons there. Having drunk all the royal healths, which were seconded by great guns from the castle, sound of trumpets and drums, volleys from the Trained Bands, and joyful acclamations from the people, they plenti- ‘ fully entertained the multitude. After which, my Lord Commissioner, Provost, and Bailies went to the castle, where they were entertained with all sorts of wine and sweatmeats ; and returning, the Provost countenancing all neighbours that had put up bonfires by appearing at their fires, which jovialness continhed, with ringing of bells and shooting of great guns, till 12 o’clock at night.” . In October, 1679, the Duke of Albany and York, with his family, including the future queens, Mary and Anne, took up his residence at Hdyrood, where the gaiety and brilliance of his court gave great satisfaction. The princesses were easy and affable, and the duke left little undone to win the love of the people, but the time was an unpropitious one, for they were at issue with him on matters of fxith ; yet it is clearly admitted by Fountainhall that his birthday was observed more cordially than that of the king. The duke golfed frequently at Leith. “ I remember in my youth,” wrote Mr. William Tytler, “ to have conversed with an old man named Andrew Dickson, a golf-club maker, who said that when a boy he used to carry the duke’s golf-clubs, and run before him to announce where the balls fell.” The sixteen companies of the Trained Bands attended the duke’s amval in the city, and sixty selected men from each company were ordered “ to attend their royal highnesses, apparelled in the best manner,’’ and the latter were banqueted in the Parliament House, at the cost of A5231 13s. sterling. The brilliance of the little court wa: long remembered after the royal race were in hopeless exile. One of the most celebrated beauties of its circle was the wife of Preston oi Denbrae, who survived till the middle of the lasl century. In the Cupar burial register this entr) occurs concerning her :-“ Buried a I st December, 1757, Lady Denbrae, aged 107 years.” The duke and duchess are said to have beer early warned of the haughty punctilio of thf Scottish noblesse by a speech of General Dalzell of Binns, whom the former had invited to line at the palace, when Nary d’Este, as a laughter of the ducal-prince of Modena, declined to take her place at table with a subject. r‘Madam,’’ said the grim veteran, “I have lined at a table, where your father must have stood at my back !” In this instance it is supposed :hat he alluded to the table of the Emperor of Zermany, whom the Duke of Modena, if summoned, must have attended as an officer of the lousehold. The same commander having ordered a guardsman who had been found asleep on his post at the ?alace to be shot, he was forgiven by order of ;he duke. In August, 1681, one of the grandest funerals :ver seen in Scotland left Holyrood-that of the High ChanceIlor, the Duke of Rothes, who died :here on the 26th July. The account of the pro- :ession fills six quarto pages of Amot’s ‘‘ History,” md enumerates among the troops present the Scots Foot Guards, a train of Artillery, the Scots Fusiliers, and Horse Guards of the Scottish army. 1$ April, 1705, John, the great Duke of Argyle, took up his residence at the palace as Commissioner to the Parliament, on which occasion he was received by a double salvo from the castle batteries, by the great guns in the Artillery Park, “ and from 111 the men-of-war, both Dutch and Scottish, then lying in the road of Leith.” the Life and Horse Guards, Horse Grenadier Guards, and the two battalions of the Foot Guards, ceased to do duty at Holyrood, being all removed permanently to London, though a detachment of the last named corps garrisoned the Bass Rock till the middle of the last century. A strange gladiatorial exhibition is recorded as taking place on a stage at the back of the palace on the 23rd of June, 1726, when one of those public combats then so popular at the Bear Garden in London, ensued between a powerful young Inshman named Andrew Bryan (who had sent a drum through the city defying all men) and a veteran of Killiecrankie, named Donald Bane, then in his sixty-second year. They fought with various weapons, in presence of many noblemen, gentlemen, and military officers, for several hours, and Bryan was totally vanquished, after receiving some severe wounds from his unscathed antagonist. The annual ball of the Honourable Company of Hunters at Holyrood, begins to be regularly chronicled in the Edinburgh papers about this In 1711 the Scottish Household troops, viz., - ... THE HOUSEHOLD TROOPS. . 75 ’ blew gowns, each having got thirty-five shillings in a purse, came up ...

Vol. 3  p. 75 (Rel. 0.66)

4 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Kirk-of-Field. begun to entertain of his own safety ; for he knew that he had many bitter enemies, against whom he trusted that her presence would protect him, Many persons are said to have suspected Bothwell’s fell purpose, but none dared apprise him of his danger, “ as he revealed all,” says Mehil, “ to some of his own servants, who were not honest.” Three days before the murder, the Lord Robert Stuart, Mary’s illegitimate brother, warned Darnley that if he did not quit the Kirk-of-Field ‘‘ it would cost him his life.” Darnley informed Mary of this, on which she sent for her brother, and inquired his meaning in her husband‘s presence ; but Lord Robert, afraid of involving himself with Bothwell and the many noble and powerful adherents of that personage, denied ever having made any such statement. ‘‘ This information,” adds Melvil, ‘‘ moved the Earl of Bothwell to haste forward with his enterprise.” He had secured either the tacit assent or active co-operation of the Earls of Huntley, Argyle, Caithness, and the future Regent Morton, of Archibald Douglas, and many others of the leading lords and officers of state ; and in addition to these conspirators of high rank, he had received a number of other unscrupulous wretches, with whom Scotland seemed at that time to abound. Four of these, Wilson, Powrie, Dalgleish, and French Paris, were only humble retainers; but other four who were active in the Kirk-of-Field tragedy were John Hepburn of Bolton, John Hay of Tallo, the Laird of Ormiston, and Hob Ormiston his uncle. Bothwell artfully contrived to get the Frenchman Paris, who had been long in his service, taken into that of the queen about this period, and thus render important service by obtaining the door-key of the Kirk-of-Field House, from which impressions were taken and counterfeits made. If the depositions of this villain are to be credited, it was not until Wednesday, the 5th of February (1567), that the plot was revealed to him, and that on seeing him grow faint-hearted at dread of his own danger, Bothwell asked him, impatiently, more than once, what he thought of it. “Pardon me, sir,” replied Paris, “ if I tell you my opinion according to my poor mind.” “What ! are you going to preach to me ? asked Bothwzll, scornfully. Paris ultimately consented to act; and it would seem that Bothwell for a few days was un. decided, like his four chief accomplices, whether to slay Darnley when walking in the garden or sleep ing in bed, or to blow the house and its inmates up together. Eventually a quantity of Government ?owder was brought from the Castle of Dunbar to Bothwell’s house, near Holyrood, and Paris was nstructed to admit Hay, Hepburn, and Ormiston .nto the queen’s room, below that of Darnley, from which he, to blacken her, alleged she removed a valuable coverlet-a very unlikely act of parsimony 3n her part. On the night of Sunday, the 9th of February, all was ready for the dreadful project. When the dusk fell Bothwell assembled the conspirators at his own house, znd, according to the depositions of Powrie, Dalgleish, Tallo, and others, allotted to each the prim part he was to play. He was well aware that the queen had dined that day at the palace, and that in the evening she was to sup with the Bishop of Argyle in the house of Mr. John Balfour, with whom the prelate lodged. At nine she left the supper-table, and, accompanied by the Earls of ‘Argyle, Huntley, and Cassilis, went to visit Darnley at the Kirk-of- Field before returning to Holyrood, where she was to be present at a masque in honour of the marriage of Margaret Carwood, one of her favourite attendants. Meanwhile, Dalgleish, Powrie, and U’ilson, were conveying the powder in bags from Bothwell’s house to the convent gate at the foot of the Blackfriars Wynd, where it was received by Hay of Tallo, Hepburn of Bolton and Ormiston, who desired them to return home. Bothwell, who had been present with her at the banquet of the bishop, quitted the table at the same time as Mary, but left her and walked up and down the Cowgate while the powder was being received and deposited. By his orders a large empty barrel was deposited in the Dominican garden. Into this all the bags of powder were to have been placed, but as the lower back door of the Provost’s house was too small to admit it, they were conveyed in separately, and placed in a heap on the floor of the room beneath that in which the victim then lay a-bed. At length all was in readiness ; the queen had departed by torchlight to the Holyrood masque, attended by Bothwell, and Ormiston had withdrawn; but Hay and Hepburn, with their false keys, remained in the room with the powder. Paris, who had in his pocket the key of the queen’s room in the Kirk-of-Field, followed her train to the palace. If, again, any credit can be given to the confession of Pans, he stated that on entering the . ball-room where the masquers were dancing, a melancholy seized him, and he remained apart from all; on which Bothwell accosted him angrily, saying that if he retained that gloomy visage in ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Kirk-of-Field. begun to entertain of his own safety ; for he knew that he had many ...

Vol. 5  p. 4 (Rel. 0.66)

$52 ’ OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. remainder of the structure cannot be earlier than the close of the sixteenth century, and the date on the steeple, which closely resembles that of the old Tron church, destroyed in the great fire of 1824, 4‘St. Ninian’s chapel still occupies its ancient site on the bank of the Water of Leith, but very little of the original structure of the good abbot remains : probably no more than a small portion of the basement wall on the north side, where a small doorway appears with an elliptical arch, now built up and .partly sunk in the ground. The There is a more modem addition to the new church, erected apparently in the reign of Queen Anne, and into it has beeeuilt a sculptured lintel, bearing in large Roman letters the legend :- present edifice on the old one, erected a parsonage, and in i 606 obtained an Act of Parliament erecting the district into a parish, named North Leith, which, even after the Reformation was achieved, had nu pastor in place of the old chaplain till 1599, when a Mr. James Muirhead was appointed to the ministry. is 1675.’’ After the Reformation, when the chaplain’s house, the tithes, and other pertinents of the chaDei, - - “BISSSED. AR. THEY. YAT. HEIR. YE. VORD. OF. GOD, AND. KEEP. 1600. were ‘acquired by purchase- from John Bothieli the Protestant commendator of Holyrood, the new proprietors immediately rebuilt, or engrafted, the When erected into a parish Ehurch, it was endowed with sundry grants, including the neighbouring chapel and hospital of St. Nicholas. ... ’ OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. remainder of the structure cannot be earlier than the close of the ...

Vol. 6  p. 252 (Rel. 0.64)

Gnonpnte.] JVHN PATERSON. I1 The latter is an anagram on the name of “John Paterson,” while the quatrain was the production of Dr. Pitcairn, and is referred to in the first volume of Gilbert Stuart’s Edinburgh Magazine andRevim for 1774, and may be rendered thus: --“In the year when Paterson won the prize in golfing, a game peculiar to the Scots (in which his ancestors had nine times won the same honour), he then raised this mansion, a victory more honourable than all the rest.” According to tradition, two English nobles at Holyrood had a discussion with the royal duke as to the native country of golf, which he was frequently in the habit of playing on the Links of Leith with the Duke of Lauderdale and others, and which the two strangers insisted to be an English game as well, No evidence of this being forthcoming, while many Scottish Parliamentary edicts, some as old as the days of James II., in 1457, could be quoted concerning the said game, the Englishmen, who both vaunted their expertness, offered to test the legitimacy of their pretensions on the result of a match to be played by them against His Royal Highness and any other .Scotsman he chose to select. After careful inquiry he chose a man named John Paterson, a poor shoemaker in the Canongate, but the worthy descendant of a long line of illustrious golfers, and the association will by no means surprise, even in the present age, those who practise the game in the true old Scottish spirit The strangers were ignominiously beaten, and the heir to the throne had the best of this practical argument, while Paterson’s merits were rewarded by the stake played for, and he built the house now standing in the Canongate. On its summit he placed the Paterson arms-three pelicans vuZned; on a chief three mullets ; crest, a dexter-hand grasping a golf club, with the wellold and well-known tradition, Chambers says, “it must be admitted there is some uncertainty. The house, the arms, and the inscriptions only indicate that Paterson built the house after being victor at golf, and that Pitcairn had a hand in decorating it.’’ In this doubt Wilson goes further, and believes that the Golfers’ Land was Zmt, not won, by the gambling propensities of its owner. It was acquired by Nicol Paterson in 1609, a maltman in Leith, and from him it passed, in 1632, to his son John (and Agnes Lyel, his spouse), who died 23rd April, 1663, as appears by the epitaph upon his tomb in the churchyard of Holyrood, which was extant in Maitland’s time, and the strange epitaph on which is given at length by Monteith. He would appear to have been many times Bailie of the Canongate. known mOttO-FAR AND SURE. Concerning this Both Nicol and John, it may be inferred from the inscriptions on the ancient edifice, were able and successful golfers. The style of the bNilding, says Wilson, confirms the idea that it had been rebuilt by him “with the spoils, as we are bound to presume, which he won on Leith Links, from ‘OUT auld enemies of England.’ The title-deeds, however, render it probable that other stakes had been played for with less success. In 1691 he grants a bond over the property for A400 Scots. This is followed by letters of caption and hornhg, and other direful symptoms of legal assault, which pursue the poor golfer to his grave, and remain behind as his sole legacy to his heirs.” The whole tradition, however, is too serious to be entirely overlooked, but may be taken by the reader €or what it seems worth. Bailie Paterson’s successor in the old mansion was John, second Lord Bellenden of Broughton and Auchnoule, Heritable Vsher of the Exchequer, who married Mary, Countess Dowager of Dalhousie, and daughter of the Earl of Drogheda. Therein he died in 1704, and was buried in the Abbey Church ; and as the Union speedily followed, like other tenements so long occupied by the old courtiers in this quarter, the Golfers’ Land became, as we find it now, the abode of plebeians. Immediately adjoining the Abbey Court-house was an old, dilapidated, and gable-ended mansion of no great height, but of considerable extent, which was long indicated by oral tradition as the abode of David Rizzio. It has now given place to buildings connected with the Free Church of Scotland. Opposite these still remain some of the older tenements of this once patrician burgh, distinguishable by their lofty windows filled in with small square panes of glass ; and on the south side of the street, at its very eastern end, a series of pointed arches along the walls of the Sanctuary Court-house, alone remain to indicate the venerable Gothic porch and gate-house of the once famous, Abbey of Holyrood, beneath which all that was great and good, and much that was ignoble and bad have passed and repassed in the days that are no more. . This edifice, of which views from the east and west are still preserved, is supposed to have been the work of “the good-Abbot Ballantyne,” who rebuilt the north side of the church in 1490, and to whom we shall have occasion to refer elsewhere. His own mansion, or lodging, stood here on the north side of the street, and the remains of it, together With the porch, were recklessly destroyed and removed by the Hereditary Keeper of the Palace in 1753. ... JVHN PATERSON. I1 The latter is an anagram on the name of “John Paterson,” while the quatrain was ...

Vol. 3  p. 11 (Rel. 0.63)

74 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyroob chateau of Chantilly, from plans by the royal architect, Sir William Bruce of Balcaskie and Kinross, the palace as we find it now was built by Charles 11. and James VII., with a zeal that has been supposed to imply forethought of having a fit retreat in their ancient capital if driven from that of England. The inscription in large Roman letters- FVN . BE. RO . MYLNE . MM . IVL . 1671- marks the site of the foundation of the modern additions ; it is in a pier of the north-west piazza. Before the Antiquarian Society in 1858 was read a statement of the “ Accounts of Sir William Bruce of Balcaskie, General Surveyor of H.M. Works, 1674-9.’’ The re‘ckoning between these years was it;160,000 Scots, of which sum four-fifths were spent on Holyrood, the new works on which had been begun, in 1671, and so vigorously carried on, that by January, 1674, the mason-work had been nekly completed. The Dutch artist, Jacob de Urt, was employed to paint “ One piece of historia in the king’s bed-chamber” for A120 Scots. The coats-of-arms which are above the great entrance and in the quadrangle were cut from his designs. Holyrood Palace is an imposing quadrangular edifice, enclosing a piazza-bounded Palladian court, ninety-four feet square. Its front faces the west, and consists of battlemented double towers on each flank. In the centre is the grand entrance, having double Doric columns, above which are the royal arms of Scotland, and over them an octagonal clock-tower, terminating in an imperial crown. The Gallery of the Kings, the largest apartment in the palace, is 150 feet long by 27 feet broad, and is decorated by a hundred fanciful portraits of the Scottish kings, from Fergus 1. to James VII., by Jacob de Urt, and there is an interesting portrait of Mary and of the latter monarch, and at the end of the gallery are four remarkable paintings, taken from Scotland by James VI., and sent back from Hampton Court in 1857. They represent James 111. and his queen Margaret of Denmark (about 1484), at devotion; on the reverses are Sir Edward Boncle, Provost of Trinity College ; the figure of St. Cecilia at the organ represents Mary of Gueldres, and the whole, which are by an artist of the delicate Van Eck school, are supposed to have formed a portion of the altarpiece of the old Trinity College Church. In this gallery the elections of the Scottish peers take place. Beyond it are Lord Darnley’s rooms ; among the portraits there are those of Darnley and his brother, and from thence a stair leads to Queen Mary‘s apartments above. The Tapestry Room contains two large pieces of arras, and among several valuable portraits one of James Duke of Hamilton, beheaded in 1649. The Audience Chamber-the scene of Mary’s stormy interviews with Knox-is panelled and embellished with various royal initials and coatsarmorial ; the furniture is richly embroidered, and includes a venerable state-bed, used by Charles I., by Prince Charles Edward, and by Cumberland on the night of the 30th January, 1746. Mary’s bedchamber measures only 22 feet by 18 feet, and at its south-west corner is her dressing-room, The ancient furniture, the faded embroideries and tapestries, and general aspect of this wing, which is consigned peculiarly to memories of the past are all in unison with the place ; but the royal nursery, with its blue-starred dome, the Secretary of State’s room, with the royal private apartments generally now in use, are all in the south and eastern sides of the palace, and are reached by a grand staircase from the south-east angle of the court. CHAPTER XI. HOLYROOD PALACE (concZdaf). The King‘s Birthday in 1665-James Duke of Albany-The Duchess of York and G e n d Daltell-Funeral of the Duke of Rothes - A Gladiatorial Exhibition-Departure of the Scottish Household Troops-The Hunters’ Company’s Balls-Fmt and Second Viis of the Royal Family of France-Recent Improvements-St. h e ’ s Yard removed-The Ornamental Fountain built. IN the IntelZ&zce for the 1st of June, 1665, we have a description. of the exuberant loyalty that followed the downfall of the Commonwealth. “Edinburgh, May 29, being His Majesty’s birthday, was most solemnly kept by all ranks in this city. My Lord Commissioner, in his state, With his life-guard on horseback, and Sir Andrew Ramsay, Lord Provost, Bailies, and Council in their robes, accompanied by all the Trained Bands in arms, went to church and heard the Bishop of Edinburgh upon a text well applied for the work of the day. Thereafter thirty-five aged men in ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyroob chateau of Chantilly, from plans by the royal architect, Sir William Bruce of ...

Vol. 3  p. 74 (Rel. 0.62)

High Street.] CARDINAL BEATON’S HDUSE. 263 his Heraldry :-“ With us (the Scots) angels have been frequently made use of as supporters. Cardinal Beaton had his, supported by two angels, in Dalmatic habits, or, as some say, priestly ones, which are yet to be seen on his lodgings in Blackfriars Wynd.” The cardinal’s arms, as borne on his archiepiscopal seal, are Bethune and Balfour quarterly, with a cross-crosslet-headed pastoral staff, and the tasselled hat over all. Upon all the buildings erected by the archbishop “his armorial bearings were conspicuously displayed,” says Wilson, “and a large stone tablet remained, till a few years since, over the archway of Blackfriars Wynd, leading into the inner court, supported by two angels in Dalmatic habits, and surmounted by a crest, sufficiently defaced to enable antiquaries to discover in it either a mitre or a cardinal’s hat, according as their theory of the original ownership inclined towards the archbishop or his more celebrated nephew the cardinal.” Occupying the space between Blackfriars Wynd and Toddrick’s Wynd, the archiepiscopal palace afforded a striking example of the revolutions effected by time and change of manners on the ancient abodes of the opulent and the noble. As it appeared before its demolition no doubt could be entertained that some portions of it had been rebuilt, to suit the requirements of its last humble denizens, but much remained to form connectinglinks in the long chain of ages, The whole of the entrance floor had been strongly groined with stone, built on solid pillars, calculated to afford protection during the brawls and conflicts of the times. Within the arched passage that led from the Wynd a broad flight of steps led to the first floor of the palace, a mode of construction common in those days, when the architect had to cogsider security, and how the residents might resist an attack till terms were obtained, or succour came. In early times the whole of the space occupied by the Mint in the Cowgate and other buildings to the north thereof had been the garden grounds of the archiepiscopal residence. Here it was, as we have related, that the Earl of Arran and his armed adherents held their stormy conclave on the 30th of April, 1520, concerting the capture and death of Angus, whose war array held the High Street and barricaded the close-heads ; and liere it WLS that Gawain Douglas, the Bishop of Dunkeld, and translator of Virgil, whose two brothers fell at Flodden, called on the archbishop, and strove to keep the peace in vain, for the prelate was already in his armour, and the dreadful conflict of “ Cleanse the Causeway ” ensued, giving victory to the Douglases, and compelling the fugitive archbishop, during 1525, the time they were.in power, to seek safety in the disguise of a shepherd, and, literally, crook in hand, to tend flocks of sheep on Bograin-knowe, not far from his diocesan city of Glasgow. James V, took up his abode in the archiepiscopal palace in 1528, preparatory to the meeting of Parliament, and the archbishop, who had been one of the most active promoters of his liberation from the Douglas faction, became his host and entertainer. Here, in after years, resided his nephew, David Beaton, the formidable cardinal, who, in 1547, was murdered so barbarously in the castle of St. Andrew, and here also was literally the cradle of the now farnous High School of Edinburgh, as it was occupied as the “Grammar Skule” in 1555, while that edifice, which stood eahward of the Kirk-of-field, was in course of erection, We next hear of the little paiace in the reign of Mary. On the 8th of February, 1562, her brother, the Lord James Stewart, “ newly created Earl of Mar (afterwards Moray) “ was married upon Agnes Keith, daughter to William Earl Marischal,” says the Diurnal of Occurrents, (‘ in the kirk of Sanct Geil, in Edinburgh, with solemnity as the like has not been seen before; the hale nobility of this realm being there present, and convoyit them down to Holyrood House, where the banquet was made, the queen’s grace thereat.” After music and dancing, casting of fire-balls, tilting with fire-spears, and much jollity, next evening the queen, with all her court, came up in state from Holyraod “to the cardinal’s lodging in the Blackfriar Wynd, which was preparit and hung maist honourably.” Then the queen and her courtiers had a joyous supper, after which all the young craftsmen of the city came in their armour, and conveyed her back to Holyrood. Up Blackfriars Wynd, past the house of the late cardinal, Queen Mary proceeded on the fatal night of the 9th of February, 1567, about the same time nearly that Bothwell and his accomplices passed down the next alley, on their way to the Kirk-of-field. She had dined that day at Holyrood, and about eight in the evening went to sup with the Bishop of Argyle. At nine she rose from the table, and accompanied by the Earls of Argyle, Cassilis, and Huntly, escorted by her archer-guard and torch-bearers, went to visit Darnley in the lonely Kirk-of-field, intending to remain there for the night, but returned home. As she was proceeding, three of Bothwell’s retainers, Dalgleish, Powrie, and Wilson, in their depositions, stated that after conveying the powder-bags to the convent gate, at the foot of the Blackfriars Wynd, they saw “the Qucnes grace gangand ... Street.] CARDINAL BEATON’S HDUSE. 263 his Heraldry :-“ With us (the Scots) angels have been frequently ...

Vol. 2  p. 263 (Rel. 0.58)

Pleasance. ST. LEONARD’S CHAPEL. 383 entirely to act as barbers. In consequence, the council, on the 26th July, 1682, recommended the new corporation to supply the city with a sufficient number of persons qualified “to shave and cut hair,” and who should continue to be upon it ; but in 1722 it ceased to have all connection with the barbers, save that the latter were obliged to enter all their apprentices in a register kept by the surgeons. By a charter of George III., dated 14th March, 1778, the corporation was erected into “The Royal College of Surgeons of the City of Edinburgh,” a document which established a scheme of provision for the widows and children of members. In the old edifice overlooking the Pleasance the College held all its Castle of Clouts,” in the spirit of that talent which , the Scots have of conferring absurd sobriquets. By the wayside to Duddingstone, south of the Pleasance, a rising piece of ground or slight eniinence is called Mount Hooly, a corruption of Mount Holy, which marks the site of the chapel of St. Leonard and of a hospital dedicated to the same saint. As is the case with most of the ecclesiastical edifices in Edinburgh, nothing is known as to when or by whom either the chapel or hospital was built, and not a vestige remains of either now. The chapel, ere it became a ruin, rva’s the scene of a remarkably traitorous tryst, held by the _. ~ - -- -- - meetings till the erec- ~ ~ ~ --/ - tion of the new hall, to be referred to in its place; but the name of the first establishment still survives in the adjacent Surgeon Square. In it was a theatre for dissection, a museum, in which a mummy was long the chief curiosity, and the hall was hung with portraits Qf surgeons who had grown to eminence after it was built. W i 11 i am S m e 11 i e, F.R.S. and F.A.S., an eminent printer, and DAVIE DEANS’ COTTAGE. known as the (FTOIIZ a Vzpette by &oars, #ubZrs/red I- the Fzrsf Edition of Robert author of the “Philo- Chambers’s “ Tradrho~rso~Ed~irbsrgh,” 1825 ) sophy of Natural His- Douglas faction on the 2nd of February, 1528, having nothing less in view than the assassination of their sovereign, James V., “the Commons King,” who was the idol of his people. They were to enter the palace of Holyrood by a window near the head of the king’s bed in the night, and under the guidance of Sir James Hamilton, one the monarch loved and trusted much; but the dastardly plot was discovered in time, and by the energetic measures taken to crush the devisers of it, peace of the quaint old houses of the Pleasance in 1740. A quaint three-storeyed edifice, having a large archway, peaked gables, and dormer windows, bearing the date of 1709, stood on the south side of the Pleasance, and was long known as “ Hamilton’s Folly,” from the name of the proprietor, who was deemed unwise in those days to hiild a house so far from the city, and on the way that led to the gibbet on which the bodies of criminals were hung. But the latter would seem to have been in - use till a much later period, as in the Cournnt for December, 1761, there are advertised for sale four tenements, “lying at the head of the Pleasance, on the east side of the road leading to the gibbet.” Here still stands a goodly house of three storeys, which was built about 1724 bya wealthy tailor, and which in consequence has been denominated ‘(the for a period. At St. Leonard‘s Loan, which bounded the property of the abbots of Holyrood on the south, separating it on the side from the western flank of the vast Burghmuir, there stood in ancient times a memorial known as Umphraville‘s Cross, erected in memory of some man of -rank who perished there in a conflict of which not a memory remains. The cross itself had doubtless been demolished as a relic of idolatry at the Reformation ; but in 1810, its base, a mass of dark whinstone, with a square hole in its centre, wherein the shaft had been fixed, was still remaining on the ancient site, till it was broken up for road metal! In his “ Diary,” Birrel records that on the 2nd April, 1600, “ being the Sabbathday, Robert Achmuty, barber, slew James Wauchope at the com ... ST. LEONARD’S CHAPEL. 383 entirely to act as barbers. In consequence, the council, on the 26th ...

Vol. 2  p. 383 (Rel. 0.58)

North Loch.] <‘GANGING TO THE DEIL HIS AIN GATE” 81 For the sake ot ornament the magistrates kept Swans and wild ducks on the loch, and various entries for their preservation occur in their accounts; and one passed in Council between 1589- 94 ordained a boll of oats to be procured for feeding them A man was outlawed for shooting a swan in the said loch, and obliged to find another rash act. Hearing the tumult, the father of the late Lord Henderland threw up his window in James’s Court, and leaning out, cried down the brae to the people : ‘What’s all the noise about? Can’t ye e’en let the man gang to the dei1 his ain gate ?’ Whereupon the honest man quietly walked out of the loch, to the no small amusement of the THE HOLYROOD FOUNTAIN. in its place. ‘I The loch,” says Chambers, “ seems to have been a favourite place for boating. Various houses in the neighbourhood had servitudes of the use of a boat upon it, and these, in later times, used to be employed to no little purpose in smuggling whisky into the town. . . . . It was also the frequent scene of suicide, and on this point one or two droll anecdotes are related. A man was proceeding deliberately to drown himself, when a crowd of the townspeople rushed down to the water-side, venting cries of horror and alarm at the spectacle, yet without actually venturing into the water to prevent him from accomplishing the 59 lately appalled neighbours.” There a lady was. saved from suicide by her hoop-petticoat. The loch must have abounded in some kind of fish, as the Council Register refers to an eel-ark set therein, at ten merks yearly, for the benefit of the Trinity Hospital; and in February, 1655, Nicoll records that in consequence of the excessively stormy weather, some thousands of dead eels were cast upon its banks, “ to the admiration of many.” On the 11th February, 1682, three men were drowned in the loch by the ice giving way. We have a proverb,” says Lord Fountainhall, under ... Loch.] <‘GANGING TO THE DEIL HIS AIN GATE” 81 For the sake ot ornament the magistrates kept Swans ...

Vol. 3  p. 81 (Rel. 0.57)

Kirk-of-Field.] BOTHWELL DENOUNCED. 7 of the Canongate to Bothwell’s lodging, near the palace, at the gates of which they were again challenged by the Archers of the Guard-a corps which existed from 1562 to 1567-who asked “if they knew what noise that was they heard a short time before.” They replied that they did not. Rushing to his house, Bothwell called for something to drink, and throwing off his clothes, went to bed. Tidings that the house had been blown up and the king slain spread fast through the startled city, and George Hackett, a servant of the palace, communicated these to Bothwell, whom he found in “ane great effray pitch-black,” and excited. Then with assumed coolness he inquired “what was the matter ? ” On being distinctly informed, he began to shout “Treason!” and on being joined by the Earl of Huntley, he repaired at once to the presence of the queen. By dawn the whole area of the Kirk-of-Field was crowded by citizens, who found that the three servants who slept in the gallery were buried in the ruins, out of which Nelson was dragged alive. In Holyrood the queen kept her bed in a darkened room, while a proclamation was issued, offering the then tolerable sum of L2,ooo Scots to any who would give information as to the perpetrators of the crime. On the same day the body of Darnley was brought to Holyrood Chapel, and after being embalmed by Maistre Mastin Picauet, ‘ I ypothegar,” was interred on Saturday night, without the presence of any of the nobles or officers of state, except the Lord Justice Clerk Bellenden and Sir James Traquair. Bothwell was denounced as the murderer by a paper fixed on the Tolbooth Gate. But though the earl was ultimately brought to trial, no precisely proper inquiry into the startling atrocity was made by the officers of the Crown. A bill fastened on the Tron Beam, declared that the smith who furnished the false keys to the king’s apartment would, on due security being given, point out his employers ; and other placards, on one of which were written the queen’s initials, M.R., were posted elsewhere-manifestations of public feeling that rendered Bothwell so furious that he rode through the city at the head of a band of his armed vassals, swearing that he “ would wash his hands” in the blood of the authors, could he but discover them ; and from that time forward he watched all who approached him with a jealous eye, and a hand on his dagger. When that part of the city wall which immediately adjoined the house of the Kirk-of-Field was demolished in 1854, it was found to be five feet thick, and contained among its rubble many fragments of a Gothic church or other edifice, and three cannon-balls, one of 24 pounds’ weight, were found in it. In the records of the Privy Council in 1599, we find an order for denouncing and putting to the horn Robert Balfour, Provost of the Kirk-of-Field, for having failed to appear before the Lords, and answer “ to sic thingis as sauld have been inquirit of him at his cuming.” The Provost, brother of the notorious Sir James, had been outlawed or forfeited in 157 I, as there rested upon both the charge of having been chief agents in the murder or Darnley. He was ultimately remitted and pardoned, and this was ratified by Parliament in 1584, when he and his posterity were allowed to enjoy all their possessions,‘‘ providing alwayis that these presentis be not extendit to repossess and restoir the said Robert to bny ryt he has, or he may pretend, to ye Provostrie of ye Kirk-of-Field, sumtym situat within the libertie of ye burgh of Edinburgh.” In this same year, 1584, the Town Council were greatly excited by a serious affray that ensued at the Kirk-of-Field Port, and to prevent the recurrence of a similar disorder, ordained that on the ringing of the alarm bell the inhabitants were all to convene in their several quarters under their bailies, “ in armour and good order.” And subsequently, to prevent broils by night-walkers, they ordered I‘ that at 10 o’clock fifty strokes would be given on the great bell, after which none should be upon the streets, under a penalty of Azo Scots, and imprisonment during the town’s pleasure.” (“ Council Records.”) A fragment of ruin connected with the Kirk-of- Field is shown as extant in 1647 in Gordon’s map, near what is now the north-west corner of Drumrnond Street, and close to the old University. A group ot trees appear to the eastward, and a garden to the iiorth. (Tytler.) ... BOTHWELL DENOUNCED. 7 of the Canongate to Bothwell’s lodging, near the palace, at the gates of ...

Vol. 5  p. 7 (Rel. 0.54)

PHE KIRK-OF-FIELD. (Alto an Etching by /awes Skenc cf Rubirlaw). OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER I. THE KIRK OF ST. MARY-IN-THE-FIELDS. Memorabilia of the Edifice-Its Age-Altars-hfade Collegiate-The Prebendal Buildings--Ruined-The House of the Kirk of-Field-The hfurder of Darnley-Robert Balfour, the Last Provost. WE now come to the scene of one of the most astounding events in European history-the spot where Henry, King of Scotland, was murdered in the lonely house attached to the Kirk-of-Field, one of the many fanes dedicated to St. Mary in Edinburgh, where their number was great of old. When, or by whom, the church of St. Mary-inthe- Fields was founded is alike unknown. In the taxation of the ecclesiastical benefices in the archdeaconry of Lothian, found in the treasury of Durham, and written in the time of Edward I. of England, there appears among the churches belonging to the abbey of Holyrood, EccZesia Sand& Mariiz in Cam& This was beyond doubt what was at a later period the collegiate church of St. Mary-in-the- Fields, and the few notices concerning which are very meagre ; but thus it must have existed in the thirteenth century, when all the district to the south 07 of it was covered with oaks to the base of the hills of Braid and Blackford. It took its name from being completely in the fields, beyond the wall of 1450. In the view of the city engraved in 1544, it is shown to have been a large cruciform church, with a tall tower in the centre ; and this representation of it is to a great extent repeated in a view found in the State Paper Office (drawn after the murder of Darnley), of which a few copies have been circulated, and which shows its pointed windows and buttresses. Among the property belonging to the foundation was a tenement at the foot of the modem Blair Street, on the west side, devoted to the altar of St. Katharine in this now defunct church ; and in the “ Inventory of Pious Donations,” preserved in the Advocates’ Library (quoted by Wilson), there is a “ mortification I’ by Janet Kennedy, Lady Bothwell, to the chaplain of the Kirk-of-Field of “her fore ... KIRK-OF-FIELD. (Alto an Etching by /awes Skenc cf Rubirlaw). OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER I. THE KIRK OF ...

Vol. 5  p. 1 (Rel. 0.54)

254 OLD. AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate. high altar in the Kirk-of-Field, of which they were patrons, and concerning which Master Archibald Barrie, the chaplain thereof, “ declairit thair wes ane land called Cliddisdail andis lyand iy the Kirk-of-Field Wynd, on the eist side of the trans (says Wilson in his “Reminiscences”), wher, happily one of its leaves attracted the quick eye of the late David Ling, and there he found preserved au gccount, for the year 1753, between ‘‘ Mr. Oliver Goldsmith ” and Mr. Filby, a tailor of Ediqburgh ; Hamilton-Duke James, who married the beautiful Miss Gunning-had engaged the services of the young Irishman apparently as a tutor, and with an eye, it is supposed, to his reputed scholarship as an alumnus of Trinity College, Dublin ; and it has been supposed that a curious tailor‘s bill which came recently to light in Edinburgh, had some reference to his expected visits to the Duke’s apartments in Holyrood, of which the Hamilton family are hereditary keepers. An old ledger was being tom up for waste paper the Courant, requested the copies to be sent to him, in the hope that 6‘ all generous persons will cheerfully submit his proposals in a matter sa pious, pleasanf, profitable, and national.” (‘‘ Dom. semblies over which the Hon. Miss Nicky Murray presided as Lady Directress. In a house close to the old College gate, on the east side of the wynd, lived for years the illustrious Joseph Black, M.D., the founder of pneumatic chemistry, who was completing his medical studies in the Edinburgh University in 1751, collaterally with Goldsmith j and Forster tells us in his life of the latter, that “ he was fond of chemistry, and was remembered favourably by the celebrated Black.” The doctor graduated here as M.D. in 1754 his charged by its weight of the precious metal in Ounces and drachms. The first bill was paid ‘ by a s h in full,’ before the end of the year ; the second is carried over ‘ to folio 424,’ which, unfortu ... OLD. AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate. high altar in the Kirk-of-Field, of which they were patrons, and concerning ...

Vol. 4  p. 254 (Rel. 0.53)

your king, and will yield it to no power whatever. But I respect that of the Parliament, and require six days to consider its demand; for most important is my charge, and my councillors, alas ! are now few,” she added, bursting into tears, probably as she thought of the many “ Who on Flodden’s trampled sod, Rendered up their souls to God.” For their king and for their country, Alarmed at a refusal so daring, Angus entreated PLAN OF EDINRURGH, SHOWING THE FLODDEN WALL. (Snscd on &rdon of Rothiemy’s Mnp, 1647.) her brother, Henry VIII., by complaining that she had been little else than a captive in the Castle Edinburgh. Meanwhile the Duke of Albany had taken UP his residence at Holyrood, and seems to have proceeded, between 1515-16, with the enlargement the royal buildings attached to the Abbey House, in continuation of the works carried on there by the late king, till the day of Flodden. Throughout the minority of James V. Edinburgh continued tO her to obey the Estates, and took an instrument to the effect that he had no share in it; but she remained inexorable, and the mortified delegates returned to report the unsuccessful issue of their mission. Aware that she was unable to contend with the Estates, she secretly retired with her sons to Stirling, and, after placing them in charge of the Lords Borthwick and Fleming, returned to her former residence, though, according to Chalmers, she had no right of dowry therein. Distrusting the people, and, as a Tudor, distrusted by them, she remained aloof from all, until one day, escorted by Lord Home and fifty lances, she suddenly rode to the Castle of Blackadder (near Berwick), from be disturbed by the armed contentions of the nobles, especially those of Angus and Arran ; and in a slender endeavour to repress this spirit the salary of the Provost was augmented, and a small guard of halberdiers was appointed to attend him. Among those committed prisoners to the Castle by Albany were the Lord Home and his brother William for treason; they escaped, but were retaken, and beheaded 16th October, 1516, and their heads were placed on the Tolbooth.* Huntly and Moray were next prisoners, for fighting at the head of their vassals in the streets; and the next was Sir Lewk Stirling, for an armed brawl. -- ... king, and will yield it to no power whatever. But I respect that of the Parliament, and require six days to ...

Vol. 1  p. 40 (Rel. 0.53)

Leith] ST. NINIAN’S CHAPEL 251 the eighty-seventh year of his age, and was able to transact business until a very short time before his death. He was succeeded in the baronetcy by his eldest son, Sir Thomas Gladstone, of Fasque and Balfour, M.P. for Queenborough and other places successively in England. Gladstone Place, near the Links, has been so named in honour of this family. From the top of the Sheriff Brae and Mill Lane, Great Junction Street, a broad and spacious thoroughfare, extends eastward for the distance of two thousand feet to the foot of Leith Walk. Here, on the south side, are the United Presbyterian church, the neat Methodist chapel, and a large and handsome edifice erected in 1839 as a school, and liberally endowed by Dr. Bell, founder of the Madras system of education, at a cost of f;IO,OOO. C H A P T E R X X V I I I , NORTH LEITH. The Chapel and Church of St. NiniaPParish Created-Its Records-Rev. George Wishart-Rev. John Knox-Rev. Dr. Johnston-The Burial- Ground-New North Leith ChurchlFree Church-Old Grammar SchoolXobourg Street-St. Nicholas Church-The Citadel-Its Remains-Houses within k--Beach and Sands of North Leith-New Custom How-Shipping Inwards and Outwards. ON crossing the river we find ourselves in North Leith, which is thus described by Kincaid in ‘787 :- “ With regard to North Leith, very little alteration has taken place here for a century past. It consists of one street running north-east from the bridge, six hundred feet long, and about forty in breadth where broadest. On each side are many narrow lanesand closes, those on the south side leading down to the carpenters’ yards by the side of the river, and those on the north to the gardens belonging to the inhabitants. From the bridge a road leads to the citadel, in length 520 feet ; then IOO feet west, and we enter the remains of the old fortification, on the top of which a dwelling-house is now erected. The buiIdings in this place are in general very mean in their appearance, and inhabited by peopIe who let rooms during the summer season to persons who bathe in the salt water.” One of the leading features of North Leith, when viewed from any point of view, is the quaint spire of its.old church, on the west bank of the river, near the end of the upper drawbridge, abandoned now to secular purposes, separated from its ancient burying-ground (which still remains, With its many tombstones, half sunk amid the long rank grass of ages), and lifting its withered and storm-worn outline, as if in deprecation of the squalor by which it is surrounded, and the neglect and contumely heaped on its venerable history. North Leith, which contains the first, or original docks, and anciently comprehended the citadel and the chief seat of traffic, was long a congeries of low, quaint-looking old houses, huddled into groups or irregular lines, and straddling their way amid nuisances in back and front, very much the style of a Spanish or Portuguese town of the present day; but since 1818 it has undergone great and renovating changes, and, besides being disenambered of the citadel and masses of crumbling houses, it has some streets that may vie with the second or third thoroughfares of Edinburgh. As stated in our general history of Leith, Robert Ballantyne, Abbot of Holyrood, towards the close of the fifteenth century, built a handsome bridge of three stone arches over the Water of Leith, to connect the southern with the northern quarter of the rising seaport, and so011 after its completion he erected and endowed near its northern end a chapel, dedicated to the honour of God, the Virgin Mary, and St. Ninian, the apostle of Galloway, Having considerable possessions in Leith, €he abbot a p pointed two. chaplains to officiate in this chapel, who were ta receive all the profits accruing from a house which he had built at the southern end of this bridge, with A4 yearly out of other tenements he possessed in South Leith. In addition to the offerings made in the chapel, the tolls or duties accruing from this new bridge were to be employed in its repair and that of the chapel, but all surplus the charitable abbot ordained was to be given to the poor; and this charter of foundation was confirmed by James IV., of gallant memory, on the 1st of January, 1493. (Maitland.) This chapel was built with the full consent of the Chapter of Holyrood, and with the approbation of William, Archbishop of St Andrews ; and-as a. dependency of the church of the Holy Crossthe land whereon it stood is termed the Rudest& in a charter of Queen Mary, dated 1569. ... ST. NINIAN’S CHAPEL 251 the eighty-seventh year of his age, and was able to transact business until a ...

Vol. 6  p. 251 (Rel. 0.53)

Burghmuir.] GOLF ON BRUNTSFIELD LINKS. 31 Lord High Treasurer, under James IV., the following entries are found :- In virtue of a bet in 1798, Mr. Scales of Leith, and Mr. Smellie, a printer, were selected to perform .. King , . . . . . . . ixs. 1503, Feb. 22. Item, xij Golf Balls to the King iiijs. 1506. Item, the 28th day of Julii for ij Golf Clubbes to the King . . . . . . . ijs. During the reign of James VI. the business of club making had become one of some importance, and by a letter, dated Holyrood, 4th April, 1603, William Mayne, Bowyer, burgess of Edinburgh, is appointed maker of bows, arrows, spears, and clubs to the king. From thenceforward the game took a firm hold of the people as a national pastime, and it seems to have been a favourite one with Henry, Duke of Rothesay, and with the great Marquis of Montrose, as the many entries in his ‘‘ Household Book ” prove. ‘‘ Even kings themselves,” says a writer in the Sots Magazine for 1792, “did not decline the princely sport; and it will not be displeasing to the Society of Edinburgh Golfers to be informed that the two last crowned heads that ever visited this country (Charles I. .and James VII.) used to practise golf on the Links of Leith, now occupied by the society for the same purpose.” In 1744 the city gave a silver club, valued at LIS, to be played for on the 1st of April annually by the Edinburgh Company of Golfers, the victor to be styled captain for the time, and to append a gold or silver -medal to the club, bearing his name and date of victory. The Honourable Company was incorporated by a charter froni the magistrates in 1800, and could boast of the most illustrious Scotsmen of the day among its members. Until the year 1792 St. Andrews had a species of monopoly in the manufacture of golf balls. They are small and hard, and of old were always stuffed with feathers. The clubs are from three to four feet long. “The heads are of brass,” says Dr. Walker, in a letter to the famous Dr. Carlyle of Inveresk ; ‘‘ and the face with which the ball is struck is perfectly smooth, having no inclination, such as might have a tendency to raise the ball from the ground. The game may be played by any number, either in parties against each other, or each person for himself, and the contest is to hole the course in the fewest strokes.” “Far!” or “Fore!” is the signal cry before the ball is struck, to warn loiterers or spectators; and “Far and Surc !” is a common motto with golf clubs. . the Erle of Bothwile . . . . xlijs Feb. 4- Item to Golf‘ Clubbes and Ballis to the the church. They were allowed the use of six balls each. These‘ all went considerably higher than the vane, and were found in the Advocate’s Close, on the north side of the High Street. Duncan Forbes, the Lord President, was so fond of golf that he was wont to play on the sands of Leith when the Links were covered with snow. Kay gives us a portrait of a famous old golfer, Andrew McKellar, known as the “Cock o’ the Green,” in the act of striking the ball. This enthusiast spent entire days on Bruntsfield Links, club in hand, and was often there by night too, playing at the “short holes” by lantern light Andrew died about 1813. Bruntsfield Links and those of Musselburgh are the favourite places yet of the Edinburgh Club ; but the St. Andrews meetings are so numerously attended that the old city by the sea has been denominated the MefropoZis of golfing. In a miscellaneous collection, entitled “ Mistura Curiosa,” a song in praise of golf has two verses “ I love the game of golf, my boys, though there are folks in Who, when upon the Links they walk, delight to run it But then those folks who don’t love golf, of coursc, can’t The fond love that exists between the golfer and his friend. “For on the green the new command, that ye love one Is, as a rule, kept better by a golfer than a brother; For if he’s struck, a brother’s rage is not so soon appeased, But the harder that Zhit my friend, the better he is pleased.” Until the Royal Park at Holyrood was opened up, levelled, and improved, at the suggestion of the late Prince Consort, Bruntsfield Links was the invariable place for garrison reviews and field days by the troops ; but >neither they nor any one else can interfere with the vested rights of the golfers to play over any part of the open ground at all times. On the summit of the green slope now crowned by the hideous edifice known as Gillespie’s Hospital, a picturesque mansion of very great antiquity, quadrangular in form, striking in outline, with its peel-tower, turrets, crowstepped gables and gablets, thus :- town down ; comprehend another, 1 east corner of the Parliament Square over the weathercock of St. Giles’s, 161 feet from the base of ... GOLF ON BRUNTSFIELD LINKS. 31 Lord High Treasurer, under James IV., the following entries are found ...

Vol. 5  p. 31 (Rel. 0.52)

the end we might pass to Heaven with all this gear! But fie on the knave Death !-that will come whether ye will or not; and when he hath laid on the arrest, then foul worms will be busy with this flesh, be it ever so fair and tender, and the silly soul, I fear, shall be feeble, that it can neither carry with it gold, garnishing, targating, pearl, nor precious stone.’ In the midst of these speeches the Laird of Dun came out of the queen’s HOLYROOD PALACE, THE REGENT MORAY’S HOUSE (ADJOINING THE PALACE, ON THE NORTH), THE ROYAL GARDENS, AND ANCIENT HOROLOGE. (From U Drawinz6y Bh6,$pu6Zishedh 1826.) created Duke of Albany, but he looked forward to wearing the crown. His headstrong, dissolute, foolish, and in many instances brutal disposition, soon weakened the affections of the queen, and her imprudent love for him, which had at one time , been so violent and generous, was-especially after the murder of Rizzio-converted into abhorrence. The appointment of the latter-said by Rymer to be a pensioner of the Pope-to the important and -cabinet, and requested him to go home; nor does it appear that Mary took any further notice of his .officious and uncalled - for, interference with her -marriage.” Soon after, another mob broke into the chapel .royal during mass, but was driven out by the Provost, the Laird of Pitarrow, and others, an event which led to a futile trial of Knox before the Privy Council. Great events now followed each other fast, and .on the 29th of July, 1565, Mary was married to her wretched and dissipated cousin, the handsome Darnley, at Stirling Castle, in which an apartment .had been fitted up as a Roman Catholic chapel by David Rizzio. Three days before this Darnley had been confidential office of secretary to the queen had given great offence to the haughty noble$ of Scotland ; and such was his influence over her, that it has been more than once supposed that he was her confessor in disguise, which, could it be proved, would throw a new light on his history and that of Mary, by accounting for his influence over her, and her horror of his murderers. A footnote to Actq Regia, vol. iv., says that “he was an old, crabbed, and deformed fellow, and that’twas his loyalty and sagacity which made him so dear to the queen.’’ Thuanus too, says that notwithstanding his mean origin she made him sit at table with her every day. He certainly fitted up the chapel for her marriage, and is known to have had a brother, Joseph, said to be in holy’ ... end we might pass to Heaven with all this gear! But fie on the knave Death !-that will come whether ye will ...

Vol. 3  p. 68 (Rel. 0.51)

36 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Merchistom captain named ScougaL After a hard struggle, during which several were killed and wounded, they stormed the outworks, and set them on fire to smoke the defenders out of the donjon keep ; but a body of the king's men veyed to Leith, and hanged, while he had a narrow escape, his horse being killed under him by a shot from Holyrood Palace, Another conflict of a more serious nature occurred before Merchiston on the last day of the same month. attack by firing forty guns from the Castle of Edinburgh. The men of Scougal (who were mortally wounded) fled over the Links and adjacent fields in all directions, hotly pursued by the Laird of Blairquhan. On the 10th of the subsequent June the queen's troops, under George, Earl of Huntly, with a small train of artillery, made another attack upon Merchiston, while their cavalry scoured all the fields between it and Blackford-fields now covered with long lines of stately and beautiful villas-bringing in forty head of cattle and sheep. By the time the guns had played on Merchiston from two till four o'clock p.m., two decided breaches were made in the walls. The garrison was about to capitulate, when the assemblage of a number of people, whom the noise of the cannonade had attracted, was mistaken for king's troops ; those of Huntly be,came party of twenty-four men-at-arms rode forth to forage. The well-stocked fields in the neighbourhood of the fortalice were the constant scene of enterprise, and on this occasion the foragers collected many oxen, besides other spoil, which they were driving triumphantly into town. They were pursued, however, by Patrick Home of the Heugh, who commanded the Regent's Light Horsemen. The foraging party, whom hunger had rendered desperate, contrived to keep their pursuers, amounting to eighty spears, at bay till they neared Merchiston, when the king's garrison issued forth, and re-captured the cattle, the collectors of which '' alighted from their horses, which they suffered to go loose, and faught CreauZZ'iee," till succoured from the town, when the fight turned in their favour. In this conflict, Home of the Heugh, Sir Patrick Home of Polwarth, four more gentle ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Merchistom captain named ScougaL After a hard struggle, during which several ...

Vol. 5  p. 36 (Rel. 0.51)

Castle Hill. well-known in his time as a man of taste, and the patron of Runciman the artist. mond, of Megginch, who jilted him for the Duke of Athol. doors and panels that are still preserved. Over one of the former are the heads of King James V., “ For lack of gold she left me, O! And of all that’s dear bereft me, 0 I For Athol’s Duke She me forsook, And to endless care has left me, 0 I ” The Doctor died in 1774, in his house at the northwest corner of Brown Square; but his widow survived him nearly twenty years. Her brother John, twelfth Lord Semple, in 1755 sold the An ancient pile of buildings, now swept away, but which were accessible by Blyth’s, Tod’s, and Nairne’s Closes, formed once the residence of Mary of Lorraine and Guise, widow of James V., and Regent of Scotland from 1554 to 1560. It iS conjectured that this palace and oratory were erected immediately after the burning of Holyrood and the city by the English in 1544, when the I up her residence for a few days after the murder of Rizzio, as she feared to trust herself within the blood-stained precincts of the palace. Over its main doorway there was cut in old Gothic letters the legend &us Aonor Deo, with I. R., the initials of King James V., and at each end were shields having the monograms of the Saviour and the Virgin. The mansion, though it had been sorely changed and misused, still exhibited some large and handsome fireplaces, with beautifully clustered pillars, and seven elaborately sculptured with his usual slouched bonnet, and of his queen, whose well-known beauty certainly cannot be traced in this instance. A portion of this building, accessible by a stair near the head of the close, contained a hall, with other apartments, all remarkable for the great height and beauty of their ceilings, on all of which In the de- I were coats armorial in fine stucco. widowed queen would naturally seek a more secure habitation within the walls of the city, and close to the Castle guns. In this edifice it is supposed that Mary, her daughter, after succeeding in detaching the imbecile Dmley from his party, took corated chimney of the former were the remains of one of those chains to which, in Scotland, the poker and tongs were usually attached, to prevent their being used as weapons in case of any sudden quarrel, One chamber was long known as the ... Castle Hill. well-known in his time as a man of taste, and the patron of Runciman the artist. mond, of ...

Vol. 1  p. 92 (Rel. 0.5)

secluded character of the place inust have been destroyed. ‘‘ Queen Mary granted the gardens of -the Greyfriars’ monastery to the citizens in the year 1566, to be used as a cemetery, and from that period the old burial-place seems to have and are now said to be among the miscellaneous collections at Holyrood. Begun in 1632, the hall with its adjacent buildings took seven years to erect; but subsequently the external portions of the edifice were almost totally renewed. Howell, the citizens forgot that their Exchange was built over their fathers’ graves.” Yet within six years after Queen Mary’s gr.ant, Knox was interred in the old burial-ground. “Before the generation had passed away that witnessed and joined in his funeral service,” says the author of “ Memorials of Edinburgh,” “the churchyard in which they laid him had been converted into a public thoroughfare ! We fear this want of veneration must be regarded as a national Characteristic which Knox assisted to call into existence, and to which we owe much of the reckless demolition of those time-honoured monuments of the past which it is sow thought a weakness to deplore.” As a churchyard in name it last figures in 1596 as the scene of a tumult in which John Earl of Mar, John Bothwell, Lord Holyroodhouse, the Lord Lindsay, and others, met in their armour, and occasioned some trouble ere they could be pacified. It was the scene of all manner of rows, when club-law prevailed ; where exasperated litigants, sick of “the law’s delays,” ended the matter by appeal to sword and dagger ; and craftsmen and apprentices quarrelled with the bailies and deacons. It has been traditionally said that many of the tombstones were removed to the Greyfriars’ churchyard; if such was the case no inscriptions remain built here lately,” and regretting that Charles I. did not inaugurate it in person, he adds that “they did ill who advised him otherwise.” The time had come when old Scottish raids were nearly past, and when revolutions had their first impulse, not in the battle-field, but in deliberative assemblies ; thus the Parliament that transferred its meetings from the old Tolbooth to the new House in 1639 had to vote ‘‘ the sinews of war ” for an aymy against England, under Sir Alexander Leslie, and was no less unprecedented in its constitution and powers than the place in which it assembled was a new edifice. Outside of a wooden partition in the hall was an oak pulpit, where a sermon was preached at the opening of parliament; and behind was a small gallery, where the public heard the debates of the House. To thousands who never saw or could have seen it the external aspect of the old Parliament House has been rendered familiar by Gordon’s engravings, and more particularly by the view of it on the bank notes of Sir William Forbes and Co. Tradition names Inigo Jones as the architect, bit of this there is not a vestige of proof. It was highly picturesque, and possessed an individuality that should have preserved it from the iconoclastic “improvers” of 1829. “There was a quaint The Parliament Hall, which was finished in 1639, at the expense of the citizens, costing A11,600 of the money of that time, occupies a considerable portion of the old churchyard, and possesses a kind of simple grandeur ‘ belonging to an anterior age. Its noblest feature is the roof, sixty feet in height, which rests on ornamental brackets consisting of boldly sculptured heads, and is formed of dark oak tie-and-hammer beams with cross braces, producing a general effect suggestive of the date of Westminster or of Crosby Hall. Modern corridors that branch out from it are in harmony with the old hall, and lead to the various court rooms and the extensive libraries of the Faculty of Advocates and the Society of Writers to the Signet. The hall measures 122 feet in length by 49 in breadth, and was hung of old with tapestry and portraits of the kings of Scotland, some by Sir Godfrey Kneller. These were bestowed, in 1707, by Queen Anne, on the Earl of Mar, ’ we are told, “and the rude elaborateness of its decorations, that seemed to link it with the courtiers I of Holyrood in the times of the Charleses, and its last gala days under the Duke of York‘s viceregency. Nothing can possibly be conceived more meaningless and utterly absurd than the thing that superseded it ”-a square of semi-classic buildings, supported by a narrow arcade, and surmounted by stone sphinxes. Above the old main entrance, which faced the east, and is now completely blocked up and hidden, were the royal arms of Scotland, beautifully sculptured, supported on the right by Mercy holding a crown wreathed with laurel, and on the left by Justice, with a palm branch and balance, with the inscription, Stant his feZiciin r p a , and underneath the national arms, the motto, Uni unionurn. Over the smaller doorway, which forms the present access to the lofty lobby of the House, were the arms of the city, between sculptured ... character of the place inust have been destroyed. ‘‘ Queen Mary granted the gardens of -the ...

Vol. 1  p. 158 (Rel. 0.5)

[-wade. THE MELVILLES.. / LASSWADE CnuKCH, 1773. (Afdw an Etching by Yohn Clerk of E(din.1 CHAPTER XLIII. THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH-(ccmclz&d). Melville Castle and the Melvilles-The Viscounts Melvil1::-Sheriffnall-Newton-Monkton-Stonyhill-" The Wicked Colonel Charteris "- New Hailes-The Stair Obelisk-Lord Hailes-His Death. MELVILLE CASTLE stands on the left bank of the North Esk, about five furlongs eastward of Lasswade, and was built by the first Viscount Melville, replacing a fortress of almost unknown antiquity, about the end of the last century. It is a splendid mansion, with circular towers, exhibiting much architectural elegance, and surrounded by a finelywooded park, which excited the admiration of George IV. Unauthenticated tradition states that the ancient castle of Melville was a residence of David Rizzio, and as such, was, of course, visited occasionally by Queen Mary; but it had an antiquity much more remote. It is alleged that the first Melville ever known 'in Scotland was a Hungarian of that name, who accompanied Queen 'Margaret to Scotland, where he obtained from Malcolm 111. a grant of land in hiidlothian, and where he settled, gave his surname to his castle, and became progenitor of all the Melvilles in Scotland. Such is the story told by Sir Robert Douglas, on the authority of Leslie, 143 Mackenzie, Martin, and Fordun ; but it is much more probable that the family is of French origin. Be all that as it may, the family began to be prominent in Scotland soon after the reign of Malcolm 111. Galfrid de Melville of Meldle Castle, in Lothian, witnessed many charters of Malcolm IV., bestowing pious donations on the abbeys of Holyrood, Newbattle, and Dunfermline, before 1165, in which year that monarch died. He also appears (1153-1165) as Vicecomes de CasieZZo Pzd'Eamm, in the register of St. Marie of Newbattle. He witnessed two charters of William the Lion to the abbey of Cambuskenneth, and made a gift of the parish church of Melville (which, probably, he built) to the monastery of Dunfermline, in presence of Hugh, Bishop of St. Andrews, previously chaplain to King William, and who died in 1187. Galfrid of Melville left four sons-Sir Gregory, his successor, Philip, Walter, and Waren. Of the last nothing is known, but the other three founded ... THE MELVILLES.. / LASSWADE CnuKCH, 1773. (Afdw an Etching by Yohn Clerk of E(din.1 CHAPTER XLIII. THE ...

Vol. 6  p. 361 (Rel. 0.5)

so OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Loch. THE garden wherein St. David budded trees and cultivated such fruits and flowers as were then known in Britain is a place of flowers and shrubs again, save where it is intersected by the prosaic railway or the transverse Earthen Mound; but those who see the valley now may find it difficult to realise, that for 300 years it was an impassable lake, formed for the defence of the city on the north, when the wall of 1450 was built ; but the well that fed it is flowing still, as when David referred to it in his Holyrood charter. Fed by it and other springs, the loch was retained by a dam and sluice at the foot of Halkerston's Wynd-the dam being a passable footway from the city to the northern fields. In the royal gardens a tournament was held in 1394 by order of Annabel Drummond, queen of Robert III., at which, according to Bower, the continuator of Fordun, her eldest son, David, Duke HOLPROOI) PALACE, WEST FRONT. of Rothesay, the same prince who penshed so miserably at Falkland, presided when in his twentieth year. In 1538, prior to committing the effigy of St. Giles to the flames, the Reformers ducked it in the loch-it being the legal place for sousing all offenders against the seventh commandment. In 1562 the Town Council enacted that all persons of loose life should be ducked in a certain part of the loch, wherein a pillar and basin were formed for the purpose; but this not having the desired effect, all such persons were ordered to be committed, without distinction, to the iron room of the Tolbooth, to be kept therein for a month on tread and water, and to be then whipped out of the city at a cart's tail. The deacon of the fleshers having fallen under this law, the crafts, deeming it an indignity to their order, assembled in arms, broke open the prison, and released him. C H A P T E R X I I . THE MOUND. The North Loch used for Sousings and Duckings-The Boats, Swans, Ducks, and Eels-Accidents in the Loch--Last Appearance of the Loch -Formation of the Mound-" Gcordie Boyd's Mud Brig"-The Rotunda--Royal Irrstitution-Board of Manufactures-History of the Baard -The Equivalent Money-% J. Shaw Lefevre's Report-School of Design-Gallery of Sculpture--Royal Society of Edinburgh-Museum of Antiquiua. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Loch. THE garden wherein St. David budded trees and cultivated such fruits and ...

Vol. 3  p. 80 (Rel. 0.5)

216 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Dab. ~~ ~~ Cuthbert’s, in 1831, for .&2,500, and seated for 1,300. The church was built in 1827, and is now named St David‘s, the parish being quo~d sawa, and disjoined from St Cuthbert’s. The United Secession Congregation, which formerly sat here, have now their. place of worship, seated for 1,284, on the west side of the Lothian Road. In architecture, externally, it is assimilated with the street. charters granted by the Scottish kings between 1309 and 1413 the lands of Dalry, near Edinburgh, are mentioned in several instances. Under Robert I. the lands of Merchinstoun ahd Dalry ” were granted to William Bisset. Under David II., Roger Hog, burgess of Edinburgh, had “one annual forth of Dalry ;,I and there was a charter given by William More, of Abercorn, to William Touris and Helenor Bruce, Countess of Carrick, of the lands of Dalry, in the county of Edinburgh. EDINBURGH CASTLE FROM PORT HOPETO[’N, 1825. (A/?#- EW6U.d) Westward of this quarter lies the old historic suburban district named Dalry. The quaint old mancr house of that name, which stood so long embosomed among its ancient copsewood, on the east side of the Dalry Road, with its projecting towers crowned by ogee roofs, is now incorporated with one of the somewhat humble class of streets, which hereabout have covered the whole estate, even to Wester Dalry, near the cemetery of that name. Of Celtic origin, it takes its name from Dal, a vale, and righ, “ a king,” like a place of the same name in Cunningham, near which there is also a spot named, like that at Holyrood, Croft an Righ, “the croft of the king.” In the roll of missing This Helenor was the only daughter of Alexander, fifth Earl of Carrick (who fell at the battle of Halidon Hill, in 1333)’ and was the wife of Sir William Cunningham, of Kilmaurs. In the sixteenth century this fertile and valuable barony became the property of the Chieslieq wealthy burgesses of Edinburgh. . In 1672 there was a “ratification” by Parliament in favour of the notorious John Chieslie (son of Walter Chieslie of Dalry) of the lands of Gorgie; and the inscription on the tomb of his mother in the Greyfriars is thus given in Monteith’s “Theatre of Mortality,” I 704- Memonk charissimle SUE mnjugis, Cuthayin@ Tad, ~ U E decessit 27th Januav, 1679 Manumen ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Dab. ~~ ~~ Cuthbert’s, in 1831, for .&2,500, and seated for 1,300. The church ...

Vol. 4  p. 216 (Rel. 0.5)

University,] A STUDENTS’ RIOT. I1 placed in the city charter room; and this order occurs often afterwards, or is referred to thus :- ‘‘ In 1663 the magistrates came down with their halberts to the college, took away all our charters and papers, declared the Provost perpetual rector, though he was chancellor before, and at the same time discharged university meetings.” During the summer of 1656 some new buildings were in progress on the south side of the old college, as the town council records state that for the better carrying on thereof, “there is a necessitie to break down and demolishe the hous neirest the Potterrow Port, which now the Court du Guaird possesseth ; thairfoir ordaines the thesaurer with John Milne to visite the place, and doe therin what they find expedient, as weil for demolishing the said hous as for provyding for the Court du Guaird utenvayis.” During the year 1665 some very unpleasant relations ensued between the university and its civic patrons, and these originated in a frivolous cause. It had been the ancient practice of the regents of all European seminaries to chastise with a birch rod such of the students as were unruly or committed a breach of the laws of the college within its bound. Some punishment of this nature had been administered to the son of the then Provost, Sir Andrew Ramsay, Knight, and great offence was taken thereat. In imitation of his colleagues and predecessors, the regent, on this occasion, had used his own entire discretion as to the mode and amount of punishment he should inflict ; but the Lord Provost was highly exasperated, and determining to wreak his vengeance on the whole university, assumed the entire executive authority into his own hands. ‘‘ Having proceeded to the college, and exhibited some very unnecessary symbols of his power within the city-the halberts, we presume-on the tenth of November he repaired to the Council Chamber and procured the following Act- to be passed :- Th CoumiZ agrees fhut fhe Provosf of Edinburgh, present and to come, 6e &ways Rector and Governor uf fhe roZZege in a21 time coming.’ The only important effects which this disagreeable business produced were, that it was the cause of corporal punishment being banished from the university, and that no rector has since been elected,” adds Bower, writing in 1817. “The Senatw Arademiclls have repeatedly made efforts to revive the election of the ofice of rector, and have as often failed of success.” A short time before his death Cromwell made a grant to the college of &zoo per annum, a sum which in those days would greatly have added to the prosperity of the institution ; but he happened to die in the September of the same year in which the grant was dated, and as all his Acts were rescinded at the’ Restoration, his intentions towards the university came to nothing. The expense of passing the document at the Exchequer cost about L476 16s. Scots; hence it is extremely doubtful if the smallest benefit ever came of it in any way. The year 1680 saw the students of the university engaged in a serious riot, which created a profound sensation at the time. ‘i After the Restoration, the students,” says Amot, “ appear to have been pretty much tainted with the fanatic principles of the Covenanters,” and they resolved, while the Duke of Albany and York was at Holyrood, to manifest their zeal by a solemn procession and burning of the pope in effigy on Christmas Day, and to that end posted up the following :- “‘I’HESE are to give notice to all Noblemen, Gentlemen, Citizens, and others, that We, the Students of the Royal College of Edinburgh (to show our detestation and abhorrence of the Romish religion, and our zeal and fervency for the Protestant), do resolve to bum the effigies of Anfi-ch&f, the Pqe of Rome at the Mercat Cross of Edinburgh, the 25th of December instant, at Twelve in the forenoon (being the festival of Our Saviour’s nativity). And as we hate tumnlts as we do superstition, we do hereby (under pain of death) discharge all robbers, thieves, and bawds to come within 40 paces of our company, and such as shall be found disobedient to these our commands, Sibi Caveant. “ By our Special command, ROBERT BROWN, Secretary to all our Theatricals and Extra L i t d Divertisements.” “AN ADVERTISEMENT. This announcement filled the magistrates with alarm, as such an exhibition was seriously calculated to affront the duke and duchess, and, moreover, to excite a dangerous sedition. According to a history of, this affair, published for Richard Janeway, in Queen’s Head Alley, Paternoster Row, 1681, the students bound themselves by a solemn oath to support each other, under penalty of a fine, and they employed a carver, “who erected then a wooden Holiness, with clothes, tiiple crown, keys, and other necessary habiliments,” and by Christmas Eve all was in readiness for the display, to prevent which the Lord Provost used every means at his command. He sent for Andrew Cant, the principal, and the regents, whom he enjoined to deter the students “ with menaces that if they would not, he would make it a bloody Christmas to them.” He then went to Holyrood, and had an interview with the duke and the Lord Chancellor, who threatened to march the Scottish troops into the town. Meanwhile, the principal strove to exact oaths and promises from the students that they would re ... A STUDENTS’ RIOT. I1 placed in the city charter room; and this order occurs often afterwards, or ...

Vol. 5  p. 11 (Rel. 0.5)

330 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 1174S- . to England or theremote districts of Scotland. The old Chevalier was proclaimed as James VIII., in all large towns where, and particularly in the capital, the concealed friends of his cause avowed their sentiments, and joined the old Jacobites in drinking deep potations to a prince, who, as his organ the Caledonian Mercury, had it, ‘‘ could eat a dry crust, sleep on pease straw, take his dinner in four minutes, and win a battle in five.” The ladies especially, by their enthusiasm, contributed not a little to produce great action in his favour. “All Jacobites,” wrote President Forbes at this time, to Sir Andrew Mitchell, “ how prudent soever, became mad ; all doubtful people became Jacobites; all bankrupts became heroes, and talked of nothing but hereditary rights and victory. And what was more grievous to men of gallantry-and, if you will believe me, much more mischievous to the public -all the fine ladies, if you will except one or two, became passionately fond of the young adventurer, and used all their arts and industry for him in the most temperate manner.” Meanwhile the gamson in the Castle obtained from certain Whig friends a supply of provisions, which, by ropes, they drew up in barrels and baskets, on the west side of the rock ; but neither the Highlanders nor the citizens suffered any molestation till the night of the 25th September, when the veteran Preston, on going his rounds in a wheelchair, being alarmed by a sound like that of goats scrambling among the rocks, he declared it to be a Highland escalade, and opened a fire of musketry and cannon from Drury‘s battery, beating down several houses in the West Port. In consequence of this the prince strengthened his picket at the Weigh-house, to prevent all intercourse with the fortress, upon which Preston wrote to Provost Stewart, intimating that unless free communication was permitted he would open- a heavy cannonade. On this, the town council represented to the prince the danger in which the city stood. “ Gentlemen,” he replied, <‘I ani equally concerned and surprised at the barbarity of those who would bring distress upon the city for what its inhabitants have not the powei to prevent; but if, out of compassion, I should Temove my guards from the Castle, you might with equal reason require me to abandon the city.” He also assured them that the injuries of the citizens would be repaid out of the estates of the 0fficers.h the Castle, “and that reprisals would be made upon all who were known abettors of the German government.” General Preston being further informed that his brother’s house at Valleyfield would be destroyed, he replied that in that case he would cause the war-ships in the Forth to burn down Wemyss Castle, the seat of Lord Elcho’s father; but after some altercation with the council, the grim veteran agreed to suspend hostilities till he received fresh orders from London. Next day, however, owing to some misunderstanding, the Highland picket fired on certain persons who were conveying provisions into the Castle, the guns of which opened on the Weigh-house, killing and wounding several in the streets. Charles retaliated by enforcing a strict blockade ; and, in revenge, Preston’s gamson fired on every Highlander that came in sight. On this, by order of the Adjutant-General, Lord George Murray, the picket was removed to the north side of the High Street ; but, as it was found inconvenient to relieve the post by corps, the gallant Lochiel undertook the entire blockade with his Camerons, who for that purpose were placed in the Parliament House. Several loose characters, among whom was Daddie Ratcliff-who occupies so prominent a post in Scott’s “Heart of Midlothian ”-dressed as Highlanders, committed some outrages and robberies ; but all were captured and shot, chiefly by Perth’s Regiment, on Leith Links. Charles contemplated the summons of a Scottish Parliament, but contented himself with denouncing, on the 3rd of October, ‘‘ the pretended Parliament summoned by the Elector of Hanover at Westminster,” and declaring it treason for the Scots to attend. On the preceding day the following proclamation was issued from Holyrood. “CHARLES P. R. being resolved that no communication ‘shall be open between the Castle and town of Edinburgh during our residence in the capital, and to prevent the bad effects of reciprocal firing, from thence and from our troops, whereby the houses and inhabitants of our city may innocently suffer, we hereby make public notice, that none shall dare, without a special pass, signed by our secretary, upon pain of death, either resort to, or come from the said Castle, upon any pretence whatsoever ; with certification of any persons convicted of having had such intercourse, after this our proclamation shall immediately be carried to execution. Given at our palace of Holyrood House, 2nd Oct., 1745. Another guard was posted the next day at the West Church, while the Camerons began to form a trench and breastwork below the reservoir across the Castle Hill, but were compelled to retire under a fire of cannon from the Half-moon, and musketry from the iite-du@nf, with the loss of some killed and wounded. Among the former was me officer. Another picket was now placed at (Signed) J. MURRAY.” ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 1174S- . to England or theremote districts of Scotland. The old Chevalier was ...

Vol. 2  p. 330 (Rel. 0.49)

278 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Lord Prowsta the city, Berwick, Roxburgh, and Stirling, met in Holyrood Abbey. After a gap of forty-eight years we find John Wigmer aZdermm in 1344. Thirteen years subsequently certain burgesses of Edinburgh and other burghs are found negotiating for the ransom of King David II., taken in battle by the English. In 1362 WilliamGuppeld was alderman, 9th April, and till 1369, in which year a council sat at Edinburgh, when the king granted a charter to the abbey of Melrose. In 1373 the dderman was Sir Adam Forrester, .said to be of Whitburn and Corstorphine, a man possessed of immense estates, for which he obtained no less than six charters under the great seal of Robert II., and was several times employed in -treaties and negotiations with the English, between In 1377 John of Quhitness first appears as Pmost, or Prepositus, on the 18th of May, and in the following year Adam Forrester was again in office. In 1381 John de Camera was provost, and in 1387 Andrew Yutson (or Yichtson), between whom, with “Adam Forster, Lord of Nether Libberton,” the Burgh of Edinburgh, and John of -Stone, and John Skayer, masons, an indenture was made, 29th November, for the erection of five new -chapels in St. Giles’s, with pillars and vzulted roofs, -covered with stone, and lighted with windows. These additions were made subsequent to the burning of the city by the invaders under Richard of England two years before. In 1392 John of Dalrymple was provost, and *the names of several bailies alone appear in the Burgh Records (Appendix) till the time of Provost Alexander Napier, 3rd October, 1403, whom Douglas calls first Laird of Merchiston. Under him Symon de Schele was Dean of Guild and KeepeI .of the Kirk Work, when the first head guild was held after the feast of St Michael in the Tolbooth. Man of Fairnielee was provost 1410-1, and again in 1419, though George of Lauder was provost So lately as 1423 John of Levyntoun was styled alderman, with Richard Lamb and Robert of Bonkyl bailies, when the lease of the Canonmills was granted by Dean John of Leith, sometime Abbot of Holyrood, to “ the aldermen, baylyes, and dene of the gild,” 12th September, 1423. His successor was Thomas of Cranstoun, Preporitus, when the city granted an obligation to Henry VI. of England, for 50,000 merks English money, on account of the expenses of James I., while detained in England by the treasonable intrigues of his .uncle. William of Liberton, George of Lauder, 1 3 9 4 4 1404- hl 1413. and John of Levyntoun, appear as provosts successively in 1425, 1427, and 1428. In 1434 Sir Henry Preston of Craigmillar wag appointed provost; but no such name occurs in the Douglas peerage under that date. After John of Levyntoun, Sir Alexander Napier appears as provost after 1437, and the names of Adam Cant and Robert Niddry are among those of the magistrates and council. Then Thomas of Cranstoun was provost from 1438 till 1445, when Stephen Hunter succeeded him. With the interval of one year, during which Thomas Oliphant was provost, the office was held from 1454 to 1462 by Sir Alexander Napier of Merchiston, a man of considerable learning, whom James 11. made Comptroller ofScotland. In 1451 he had a safe-conduct from the King of England to visit Canterbury as a pilgrim, and by James 111. he was constituted Vice-Admiral. He was also ambassador to England in 1461 and 1462. In succession to Robert Mure of Polkellie, he was provost again in 1470, and until the election of James Creichton of Rothven, or Rowen, in 1477, when the important edict of James 111. concerning the market-places and the time of holding markets was issued. In 1481 the provost was Rilliarn Bertraham, who, in the following year, with “the whole fellowship of merchants, burgesses, and community ” of’ Edinburgh, bound themselves to repay to the King of England the dowry of his daughter, the Lady Cecil, in acknowledgment for which loyalty and generosity, James 111. granted the city its Golden Charter, with the banner of the Holy Ghost, locally known still as the Blue Blanket. In 1481 the provost was for the first time allowed an annual fee of A z o out of the common purse ; but, some such fee would seem to have been intended three years before. His successor was Sir John Murray of Touchadam, in 1482; and in the same year we find Patrick Baron of Spittlefield, under whose rt‘gime the Hammermen were incorporated, and in 1484 John Napier of Merchiston, eldest son of Provost Alexander Napier. He was John Napier of Rusky, and third of Merchiston, whom James III., in a letter dated 1474, designates as OUY Zouift fandiar sqwiar, and he was one of the lords auditors in the Parliament of 1483. Two of his lineal heirs fell successively in battle at Flodden and Pinkie. The fourth provost in succession after him was Patrick Hepburn, Lord Hailes, 8th August. He was the first designated ‘‘ My h r d Provost,” pre bably because he was a peer of the realm. He had ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Lord Prowsta the city, Berwick, Roxburgh, and Stirling, met in Holyrood Abbey. After ...

Vol. 4  p. 278 (Rel. 0.49)

70 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood. orders, who was on his way to Scotland at the time of the murder. Darnley’s unsuccessful attempt to obtain the crown-matrimonial roused all the vengeance of himself and his father, who now determined to put Rizzio to death and deprive Mary of the throne. How and why the conspiracy spread belongs to history; suffice it that it was on the evening of Saturday, the 9th of March, 1566, the conspirators determined to strike the blow, in terms of their “Articles” with “the noble and mighty Prince Henry, King of Scotland, husband to our sovereign Lady,” signed 1st March, 1566; and they seem to have entered the palace unnoticed by the sentinels, for Mary had, since 1562, a gardedu- corps of seventy archers, under Sir Arthur Erskine of Scotscraig. In the dusk of the spring evening the Earl of Morton arrived with 500 of his personal retainers, and on being joined by the other lords, his accomplices, assembled secretly in the vicinity of the palace, into which they had passed, Morton, ordering the gates to be locked, took possession of the keys, while Damley, George Douglas, known as the Postulate (i.e., a candidate for some office), the Lords Lindsay and Ruthven, were waiting to proceed to the queen’s apartments in the Tower of James V., where they expected to find their victim. It had been originally intended to murder Rizzio in his own apartment, a plan abandoned for the double reason that they might have failed to find him, as he frequently slept in the room of his brother Joseph, and that to slay him under Mary’s eyes would malign and terrify her more. At this time she, altogether unsuspicious, was at supper in the closet with her sister the Countess of Argyle, her brother Robert, Commendator of Holyrood, her Master of the Household, the Captain of the Archers, and Rizzio, while two servants of the Privy Chamber were waiting by a side-table, at which, Camden states, Rizzio was seated. Ascending the private staircase, Darnley entered alone, and kissing the queen, seated himself by her side; but a minute scarcely elapsed when Ruthven drew aside the tapestry, entered, and without ceremony threw himself into a chair. He was in full armour, with his sword drawn, and looked pale, wan, and ghastly, having been long a-bed with an incurable disease. Mary, now far advanced in pregnancy, repressed her terror, and . said, “My lord, hearing you were still ill, I was about to visit you, and now you enter our presence in armour. What does it mean?” ‘( I have been ill indeed,” replied the savage noble, sternly; “ but am well enough to come here for your good.” ’ . cc You come not in the fashion of one who meaneth well,” said Mary. “ There is no harm intended to your grace, nor any one but yonder poltroon,, David.” rcWhat hath he done?” “Ask the king, your husband, madam.” Mary now assumed an air of authority, and demanding an explanation of Darnley, commanded Ruthven to begone. On this, the Master of the Household and the captain of the archers attempted to expel him by force, but he brandished his sword, exclaiming, Lay no hands on me-for I will not be so handled ! ” Another conspirator, Kerr of Faudonside, now burst in with a horse-petronel cocked, and the private stair beyond was seen crowded by others. cc Do you seek my life? ” exclaimed Mary, on finding the weapon levelled at her breast. ccNo,” replied Ruthven ; ‘‘ but we will have out yonder villain, Davie.” He now tried to drag forth the hapless Italian, who had retreated into the recess of a window, a dagger in one hand, and with the other clinging to the skirt of the interposing queen. “If my secretary has been guilty of any misdemeanour,” said she, “he shall be dealt with according to the forms of justice.” “ Here is justice, madam ! ” cried one, producing a rope, from which we learn by Knox and the work of Prince Lebanoff, that the first intention had been to hang Rizzio. Fear not,” said the queen to him ; cc the king will not suffer you to be slain in my presence, nor will he forget your faithful services.” ‘‘ A Douglas !-a Douglas ! ’’ was now resounding through the palace, as Morton and his vassals rushed up the great staircase and burst into the presence-chamber, the light of their glaring torches and flashing of their weapons adding to the terror of the little group in the closet. The supper-table, which had hitherto interposed between Rizzio and his murderers, was now overturned before the queen, and had not the Countess of Argyle caught one of the falling candles, the room would have been involved in darkness. on this fatal night was dressed in black figured damask, trimmed with fur, a satin doublet, russet velvet hose, and wore at his neck a niagnificent jewel- never seen after that night - now clung in despair to the weeping queen, crying, U Giusfizia 1 Giusiizia 1 Sauve ma vie, madame, -sauzIe ma vie f ” But he was stabbed over her shoulder by George Douglas with the king‘s own dagger, and other daggers and swords followed fast. By force the usually half-drunken Darnley tore the queen’s skirt from the clutch of the poor bleeding creature, who, amid ferocious shouts and hideous oaths, was Rizzio, who. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood. orders, who was on his way to Scotland at the time of the murder. ...

Vol. 3  p. 70 (Rel. 0.49)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Newhaven. ST.JAMES’S CHAPEL. 297 a manufactory of ropes and cables as having existed in Newhaven a short time before that period. In 1508, for the accommodation of his shipwrights and others, the king built the chapel. It was founded on the 8th of April; it was “conveyed ” into the hands of James by the chaplain thereof, Sir James Cowie, “Sir” being then the substitute for dontinus, when designating a priest. Indeed, James IV. seems to have been the entire originator of Newhaven. In 1510, the city of Edinburgh, fearing that this new seaport might prove prejudicial to theirs at Leith, purchased the whole place from the king, whose charter, dated at Stirling, 9th March of that year, describes it as ‘‘ the new haven lately made alley which lies between the main street and Pier Pla.ce. In 1506 James IV. erected here a building-yard and dock for ships (the depth of water favouring the plan), besides a rope-walk and houses for the accommodation of artisans. Some portions of the Royal Roperie were visible here till the middle of the eighteenth century ; and in a work in MS. preserved in the Advocates’ Library (a Latin description of Lothian), written about 1640, mention is made of the inner front of the houses of the South Row, which are built on the south side of the street of the said port. . . . We also will and ordain that they uphold the bulwarks and other defences necessary for receiving and protecting the ships and vessels riding thereto, for thegood and benefit of us, our kingdom and lieges.” (Burgh Charters, No. Ixiv.) From this we learn that in 1510 Newhaven had a pier and at least one street, known then, as now, by the name of South Row. Among the witnesses to this charter are Mathew, Earl of Lennox, Archibald, Earl of Argyle, George, Abbot of Holyrood, and many others. At this now small and rather obscure harbour by the said king, on the sea. coast, with the lands thereunto belonging, lying between the chapel of St. Nicholas (at Leith) and Wierdy Brae.” This charter gave the community of Edinburgh free and common passage from Leith to Newhaven, ‘‘ with liberty and space for building and extending the pier and bulwark of the said port, and unloading their merchandise and goods in ships, and of unloading the same upon the land, and to fix ropes on the shore ; from the sea-shore of the said port to REMAINS OF ST. JAMES’S CHAPEL, NEWHAVEN. ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Newhaven. ST.JAMES’S CHAPEL. 297 a manufactory of ropes and cables as having existed in ...

Vol. 6  p. 297 (Rel. 0.49)

The Old High S:hoo!.l THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL. 287 college, the pulpits, desks, lofts, and seats, were; says Nicol, (( dung down by these English sodgeris, and burnt to asses.” When the congregation of the abbey church were compelled by James VII. to leave it in 1687, they had to seek accommodation in Lady Yester’s till another place of worship could be provided for them. A small cemetery adjoined the church ; it is now covered with buildings, but was still in use about the close of the last and beginning of the present century, and many seamen of the Russian fleet, which lay for a time at Leith, and who died in the infirmary, were buried there. In 1803 the old church was taken down, and a new one erected for 1,212 sitters, considerably to the westward of it, was opened in the following year. Though tasteless and nondescript in style, it was considered an ornament to that part of the city. The tomb of the foundress, and the tablet recording her good works, are both rebuilt into this new fane ; but it seems doubtful whether her body was removed at the same time. The parish is wholly a town one, and situated within the city; it contains 64,472 square yards With diffidence, yet with ardour and interest, we now approach the subject of the old High School of Edinburgh-the famous and time-honoured SchZa Regia Edineprsis-so prominently patronised by James VI., and the great national importance of which was recognised even by George IV., who gave it a handsome donation. Scott, and thousands of others, whose deeds and names in every walk of life and in every part of the globe have added to the glory of their country, have conned their tasks in the halls of this venerable institution. In the roll of its scholars,” says Dr. Steven, “are the names of some of the most distinguished men of all professions, and who have filled important situations in all parts of the world, and it is a fact worth recording that it includes the names of three Chancellors of England, all nafives of Edinburgh-Wedderbum, Erskine, and Brougham.” Learning, with all the arts and infant science too, found active and munificent patrons in the monarchs of the Stuart line ; thus, so early as the sixth Parliament of James IV., it was ordained that all barons and freeholders of substance were to put their eldest sons to school after the age of six or nine years, there to remain till they were perfect in Latin, ‘( swa that they have knowledge and understanding of the lawes, throw the quhilks justice may remaine universally throw all the tealme.” Those who failed to conform to this Act were to pay a fine of twenty pounds. But Scotland possessed schools so early as the twelfth century in all her principal towns, though prior to that period scholastic knowledge could only be received within the walk- of the monasteries. The Grammar School of Edinburgh was originally attached to the abbey of Holyrood, and as the demand for education increased, those friars whose presence could be most easily dispensed tvith at the abbey,were permitted by the abbot and chapter to become public teachers within the city. The earliest mention of a regular Grammar School in Edinburgh being under the control of the magistrates is on the 10th January, 1519, “the quhilk day, the provost, baillies, and counsall statutis and ordains, fot resonabie caussis moving thame, that na maner of nychtbour nor indwe!ler within this burgh, put thair bairins till ony particular scule within this toun, boi to fhe pnircipal Grammw Smlc of the samyn,” to be taught in any science, under a fine of ten shillings to the master of the said principal school. David Vocat, clerk of the abbey, was then at the head of the seminary, enjoying this strange monopoly; and on the 4th September, 1524, George, Bishop of Dunkeld, as abbot of Holyrood, with consent of his chapter, appointed Henry Henryson as assistant and successor to Vocat, whose pupil he had been, at the Grammar School of the Canongate. Bya charter of James V., granted under the great seal of Scotland, dated 1529, Henryson had the sole privilege of instructing the youth of Edinburgh; but he was ‘also to attend at the abbey in his surplice on all high and solemn festivals, there to sing at mass and evensong, and make himself otherwise useful in the chapel. According to Spottiswood‘s Church History, Henryson publicly abjured Romanism so early .as 1534, and thus he must have left the High School before that year, as Adam Melville had become head-master thereof in 1531. The magistrates of the city had as yet no voice in the nomination of masters, though the whole onus of the establishment rested on them as representing the citizens ; and in 1554, as we have elsewhere (VoL I. p. 263) stated, they hired that venerable edifice, then at the foot of Blackfriars Wfnd-once the residence of -Archbishop Ekaton and of his nephew the cardinal- as a school; but in the following year they were removed to another house, near the head of what is named the High School Wynd, which had been built by the town for their better accommodation. The magistrates having obtained from Queen ... Old High S:hoo!.l THE GRAMMAR SCHOOL. 287 college, the pulpits, desks, lofts, and seats, were; says Nicol, (( ...

Vol. 4  p. 287 (Rel. 0.49)

his “ Church History,” were licensed by the king ! This interdict was annulled by proclamation at the Market Cross. In 1601 an English company, headed by Laurence Fletcher, “comedian to his Majestie,” was again in Scotland ; and Mr. Charles Knight, in his“ Life of Shakspere,” con- THE PALACE GArE. (Affcran EtchinKby -7nmcs Skmr, of Rubiskw.) niissioner, at his court at Holyrood, and soon after the theatre in the Tennis Court was in the zenith of its brief prosperity, in defiance of the city pulpits. There, on the 15th November, 1681, ‘‘ being the Queen of Brittain’s birthday,” as Fountainhall records, while bonfires blazed in the city and James VI. to England, in 1603, till the arrival of his grandson the Duke of Albany and York, in 1680, there are doubts if anything like a play was performed in the Edinburgh of that gloomy period ; though Sir George Mackenzie mentions that in June, 1669, “ Thomas Sydserf, having pursued Mungo Murray for invading him in his Playhouse, &c., that invasion was not punished as hamesucken, but with imprisonment ;” and a ‘‘ Playhouse,” kept at Edinburgh in the same month, when a thousand prisoners, after Bothwell Bridge, were confined in the Greyfriars Churchyard, is referred to in the Acts of Council in 1679. Some kind of a drama, called “ Marciano, or The Discovery,” was produced on the festival of St John by Sir Thonlas Sydserff (the same referred to), before His Grace the Earl of Rothes, High Comthe plan of his great Scottish tragedy. According to the same testimony, the name of Shaklution ; and though a concert was given in 1705 in the Tennis Court, under the patronage of the Duke of Argyle, and ‘‘ The Spanish Friar ’ is said to have been performed there before the members of the Union Parliament, no more is heard of it till 1714, when ‘‘ Macbeth ” was played at the Tennis Court, in presence of a brilliant array of Scottish nobles and noblesse, after an archery meeting. On this occasion many present called for the song, “The king shall enjoy his own again,” while others opposed the demand ; where- -Jpon swords were resorted to, and-as an anticipation of the battle of Dunblane-a regular m2Zk ensued. A little to the north-eastward of the Tennis Court stands the singularly picturesque, but squat little corbelled tower called Queen Mary’s Bath, ‘( Mithridates, King of Pontus,” wherein the future Queen Anne and the ladies of honour were the ... “ Church History,” were licensed by the king ! This interdict was annulled by proclamation at the Market ...

Vol. 3  p. 40 (Rel. 0.49)

Leith.] THE FIRST BRIDGE. 167 Kirk aark, and to be-deprived of- the freedom (of the city) for ane zeare.” 1 .of the harbour, for the erection of quays and wharfs and for the loading of goods, with the liberty to have shops and granaries, and to make all necessary roads thereto ; but this grasping feudal baron afterwards sorely teased and perplexed the town council with points of litigation, till eventually he roused them to adopt a strong measure for satiating .at once his avarice and their own ambition. Bought over by them with alarge sum of nionfy .drawn from the city treasury, Sir Robert Logan on ;the 27th of February, 1413, granted them an extraordinary charter, which has been characterised as an exclusive, ruinous, and enslaving bond,” restraining the luckless inhabitants of Leith from .carrying on trade cE any sort, from possessing warehouses or shops, from keeping inns for strangers, “ so that nothing should be built or constructed on the said land (in Leith) in future, to the prejudice and impediment of the said community.” The witnesses to this grant are George Lauder the Pro- Test, and the Bailies, William Touris of Cramond, William of Edmondston, James Cant, Dean of Guild, John Clark of Lanark, Andrew Learmouth, and William of the Wood. In 1428 King James I. granted a charter under .his great seal, with consent of the community of Edinburgh, ordaining “ that in augmentation of the fabrik and reparation of the port and harbour of Leith, there should be uplifted a certain tax or toll upon all ships and boats entering therein,” This is dated from the Palace of Dunfermline, 31st December. (Burgh Records.) In 1439 Patrick, abbot of Holyrood, granted to Sir Robert Logan and his heirs the office of bailie aver the abbey lands of St. Leonards, “lyande in the town of Leicht, within the barony of Restalrig, on the south halfe the water, from the end of the gret volut of William Logane on the east part to the common gate that passes to the ford over the water of Leicht, beside the waste land near the house of John of Turing,” etc. (Burgh Charters.) Not content with the power already given them over their vassals in Leith, the magistrates of Edinburgh, after letting the petty customs and haven siller” of Leith for the sum of one hkdred and ten merks in 1485, passed a remarkable order in council :-“ That no merchant of Edinburgh presume to take into partnership any indweller of the town of Leith, under pain of forty pounds to the he proceeded to Leith tb hold his water courts, such an escort being deemed necessary for the In 1497 the civic despots of Edinburgh obtained, on writ from the Privy Council, that “ all manner of persons, quhilk are infectit, or has been infectit and uncurrit of the contageouse plage, callit the grand gore, devoid red and pass furth of this towne, and compeir on the sandis of Leith, at ten hours before noon, and thair shall have boats reddie in the Haven, ordainit to thame be the officears, reddie furnished with victualles, to have them to the inche, there to remain quhi!l God provide for thair health.” (Town Council Records.) As regards Leith, a much more important event is recorded four years before this, when Robert Ballantyne, abbot of Holyrood, “ with the consent of his chapter and the approbation of William, Archbishop of St. Andrews,” first spanned the river by a solid stone bridge, thus connecting South and North Leith, holding the right of levying a toll therefor. It was a bridge of three arches; of which Lord Eldin made a sketch in 1779, and part of one of the piers of which still remains. Abbot Ballantyne also built a chapel thereby, and in his charter it is expressly stated, after enumerating the tithes and tolls of the bridge, “that the stipend of each of the two incumbents is to be limited to fifteen merks, and after the repairs of the said bridge and chapel, and lighting the same, the surplus is to be given to the poor.” This chapel was dedicated to St. Ninian the apostle of Galloway, and the abbot’s charter was confirmed by King James IV. on the 1st June, 1493. He also established a range of buildings on the south side of the river, a portion of which, says Robertson, writing in 1851, still exists in the form of a gable and large oven, at the locality generally designated ‘ the Old Bridge End.’ ” The part in Leith whereon, it is said, the first houses were built in the twelfth century, is bounded , on the south by the Tolbooth Wynd, on the west by the shore or quay, on the north by the Broad Wynd, and on the east by the Rotten Row, now called Water Lane. One of the broadest alleys in this ancient quarter is the Burgess Close,’ ten feet in width, and was the first road granted to the citizens of Edinburgh by Logan of Kestalng. In the year 1501, all freemen of the city, to the number of twenty or so, were directed by the magistrates to accompany the water bailie when ... THE FIRST BRIDGE. 167 Kirk aark, and to be-deprived of- the freedom (of the city) for ane zeare.” ...

Vol. 5  p. 167 (Rel. 0.49)

West PGrt.1 THE LAWSONS. 22; of Cromwell, expelled the General Assembly from Edinburgh, literally drumming the members out at that gate, under a guard of soldiers, after a severe reprimand, and ordering that never more than three of them should meet together. Marion Purdy, a miserable old creature, “ once a milkwife and now a beggar,” in the West Port, was apprehended in 1684 on a charge of witchcraft, for “laying frenzies and diseases on her neighbours,” says Fountainhall ; but the King’s Advocate failed to bring her to the stake, and she was permitted to perish of cold and starvation in prison about the Christmas of the same year. Five years subsequently saw the right hand of Chieslie, the assassin of Lockhart, placed above the gate, probably on a spike ; and in the street close by, on the 5th September, 1695, Patrick Falconar, a soldier of Lord Lindsay’s regiment, was murdered by George Cumming, a writer in Edinburgh, who deliberately ran him through the body with his sword, for which he was sentenced to be hanged and have his estates forfeited. From the trial, it appears that Cumming was much to blame, and had previously provoked the unoffending soldier by abusive language. The tolls collected at the West Port barrier in 1690 amounted to A105 11s. Iid. sterling. (Council Register.) In the year of the Union the Quakers would seem to have had a meeting-house somewhere in the West Port, as would appear from a dispute recorded by Fountainhall-“ Poor Barbara Hodge ” against Bartholoniew Gibson, the king‘s farrier, and William Millar, the hereditary gardener of Holyrood. On the south side of this ancient burgh, in an opening of somewhat recent formation, leading to Lauriston, the Jesuits have now a very large church, dedicated to “The Sacred Heart,” and Capable of holding more than 1,000 hearers. It is in the form of a great lecture hall rather than a church, and was erected in 1860, by permission of the Catholic Bishop Gillis, in such a form, that if ever the order was suppressed in Scotland the edifice might be used for educational purposes. Herein is preserved a famous image that once belonged to Holyrood, but was lately discovered by E. Waterton, F.S.A., in a shop at Peterborough. Almost opposite to it, and at the northern corner of the street, stood for ages the then mansion house of the Lawsons of the Highriggs, which was demolished in 1877, and was undoubtedly one of the oldest, if not the very oldest, houses in the city. When built in the fifteenth century it must have (Crim. Trials.) been quite isolated. It had crowstepped gables, dormers on the roofs, and remarkably small windows. . It was the residence of an old baronial family, long and intimately connected with the city. ‘‘ Mr. Richard Lawson,” says Scott of Scotstarvet, “Justice Clerk, conquest a good estate about Edinburgh, near the Burrow Loch, and the barony of Boighall, which his grandson, Sir William Lawson of Boighall, dilapidated, and went to Holland to the wars.” He was Justice Clerk in the time oi James IV., from 1491 to 1505. In 1482 his name first appears in the burgh records as common clerk or recorder, when Sir John Murray of Tulchad was Provost, a post which the former obtained on the 2nd May, 1492. He was a bailie of the city in the year 1501, and Provost again in 1504. Whether he was the Richard Lawson who, according to Pitscottie, heard the infernal summons of Pluto at the Market Cross before the army marched to Flodden we know not, but among those who perished on that fatal field with King James was Richard Lawson of the Highriggs ; and it was his daughter whose beauty led to the rivalry and fierce combat in Leith Loan between Squire Meldrum of the Binns and Sir Lewis Stirling, in 1516, In 1555 we find John Lawson of the Highriggs complaining to the magistrates that the water ot the burgh loch had overflowed and (‘ drownit ane greit pairt of his land,” and that he could get no remedy therefor. Lady Lawson’s Wynd, now almost entirely demolished, takes its name from this family. The City Improvement Trustees determined to form it into a wide thoroughfare, running into Spittal Street. In one of the last remaining houses there died, in his 95th year, in June, 1879, a naval veteran named M‘Hardy, supposed to be the last survivor of the actual crew of the Victory at Trafalgar. He was on the main-deck when Nelson received his fatal wound. One of the oldest houses here was the abode of John Lowrie, a substantial citizen, above whose door was the legend-SoLr DEO. H.G. 1565, and a shield charged with a pot of lilies, the emblems of the Virgin Mary. “John. Lowrie’s initials,” says Wilson, “ are repeated in ornamental characters on the eastern crowstep, separated by what appears to be designed for a baker‘s peel, and probably indicating that its owner belonged to the ancient fraternity of Baxters.” The West Port has long been degraded by the character of its inhabitants, usually Irish of the lowest class, and by the association of its name with ... PGrt.1 THE LAWSONS. 22; of Cromwell, expelled the General Assembly from Edinburgh, literally drumming the ...

Vol. 4  p. 223 (Rel. 0.49)

The Cowgate.] LADY GALLOWAY. Z S 7 Although the name of this wynd is as old as the middle of the seventeeth century, none of the buildings in it latterly were older than the middle of the eighteenth. They had all been removed by those who were anxious for the benefit of such fine air as its surroundings afforded, for in the map of 1647 the Yicus Epuorzrm is shown as having to the westward gardens in plenitude, divided by four long hedgerows, and closed on the south by the became remarkable for piety, mingled with great stateliness and pride; and she is thus referred to in the Ridotto of Holyrood, partly written by her sister-in-law, Lady Bruce of Kinloss :-- “And there was Bob Murray, though married, alas ! Yet still rivalling Johnstone in beauty and grace. And there was my lady, well known by her airs, Who ne’er goes to revel but after her prayers.” The Bob herein referred to was Sir Robert crenelated wall of the city, and it terminated by a bend eastward at the Potterrow Port. Respectable members of the bar were always glad to have a flat in some of the tall edifices on the east side of the wynd. About the middle of it, on the west side, was a distinct mansion called Galloway House, having a large Fcdiment, and ornamented on the top by stone vases. This residence was built by Alexander, sixth Earl of Galloway, one of the Lords of Police, who died in 1773. His countess Catharine, daughter of John Earl of Dundonald, colonel of the Scottish Horse Guards, was mother of Captain George Stewart, who fell at Ticonderoga. She had been a beauty in her youth, and formed the subject of one of Hamilton of Bangour’s poetical tributes, and in her old age 81 Murray of Clermont. Among all the precise granddames of her time in Edinburgh, Lady Galloway was noted for her pre-eminent pomp and formality, and would order out her coach with six horses, if but to pay a visit to a friend at the corner of the wpd, or to Lord hfinto, whose house was a few yards westward of it. “ It was alleged that when the countess made calls, the leaders were sometimes at the door she was going to when she was stepping into the camage at her own door. This may be called a tour de force illustration of the nearness of friends to each other in Old Edinburgh.” New College Wynd, which strikes from the eastern part of Chambers Street, runs first IIO feet northward, then 180 feet westward, and then northward again in the line of the Iower part of the ... Cowgate.] LADY GALLOWAY. Z S 7 Although the name of this wynd is as old as the middle of the seventeeth ...

Vol. 4  p. 257 (Rel. 0.49)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd. 304 of the building, among these; on a buttress, at the west angle of the southern transept, was a shield, with the arms of Alexander Duke of Albany, who, at Mary’s death, was resident at the Court of the Duke of Gueldres. Among the grotesque details of this church the monkey was repeated many times, especially among the gurgoyles, and crouching monsters, as corbels or brackets, seemed in agony under the load they bore. the entire teeth in the jaws, were found on the demolition of the church in 1840. They were placed in a handsome crimson velvet coffin, and re-interred at Holyrood. Portions of her original coffin are preserved in the Museum of Antiquities. Edinburgh could ill spare so fine an example of ecclesiastical architecture as this church, which was long an object of interest, and latterly of regret; for “it is with some surprise,” says a writer, TRINITY COLLEGE CHURCH, AND PART OF TRINITY HOSPITAL (TO THE RIGHT. [Afn a Draw.ng @ Clerk of Eldin, 1780.1 Uthrogal, in Monimail, was formerly a leper hospital, and with the lands of Hospital-Milne, in the adjoining parish of Cults, was (as the Statistical Account of Scotland says) given by Mary of Gueldres to the Trinity Hospital, and after the suppression, it went eventually to the Earls of Leven. According to Sir Robert Sibbald, the parish church of Easter Wemyss, in Fife, also belonged ‘‘ to the Collegiata Sancta Trinitis de Edinburgh.” ,The parish churches of Soutra, Fala, Lampetlaw, Kirkurd, Ormiston, and Gogyr, together with the lands of Blance, were annexed to it in 1529. The tomb of the foundress lay in the centre of what was the Lady Chapel, or the sacristy of old, latterly the vestry ; and therein her bones, with “that the traveller, just as he emerges from the temporary-looking sheds and fresh timber and plaster-work of. the railway offices, finds himself hurried along a dusky and mouldering collection of buttresses, pinnacles, niches, and Gothic windows, as striking a contrast to the scene of fresh bustle and new life, as could well be ‘conceived ; but the vision is a brief one, and the more usual concomitants of railways-a succession of squalid houses, and a tunnel-immediately succeed it” In 1502 the establishment was enlarged by the addition of a dean and subdean, for whose support the college received a gift of the rectory of the parish church of Dunnottar; and owing to the unsettled state of the country, it would appear that Sir Edward Bonkel, the first Provost, had to apply ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd. 304 of the building, among these; on a buttress, at the west angle of the ...

Vol. 2  p. 304 (Rel. 0.49)

326 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 11745. -the identical vehicle in which the deputies had returned from Gray’s Mill, and the driver of which wanted to pass out at that critical juncture. “Open the port,” he cried, “for I behove to get out.” “You cannot,” yeplied the sentinel, “without an order from Provost Stewart.” “Let the coach out instantly,” said James Gillespie, under-keeper of the gate, ‘:for I have an order to that effect.” “Oh, sir, ’tis very well; you have the keys of the port and must answer for it,” replied the soldier,. as he pulled back the ponderous gate in the arch between its two massive towers. At that moment a Highlander sprang in and wrested his musket from him ; it was the chief of Lochiel; and immediately the whole clan Cameron advanced up the street, with swords drawn and colours flying, their pipes playing “ We’ll awa to Shirramuir, And haud the Whigs ip order.” Other noise there was none, and no bloodshed; not an armed man was to be seen on the streets, to the astonishment of the Highlanders, who saw only the people in their nightdresses, at the windows, by the light of the early dawn. They seized the Guard-house, disarmed the Guard, captured the cannon and arsenal, placed pickets at the eight principal gates with the utmost order and regularity, while the magistrates retired to their houses, aware that their authority was ended. . Generals Guest and Preston hoisted the royal standard on the Castle, and fired a few cannon to warn all to keep from its vicinity, and, meanwhile, after two hours’ sleep, Charles prepared to take possession of the palace of his forefathers. Making a tour to the south, to avoid the fire of the Castle till he reached Braidsburn, he turned towards the city as far as the Hare Stone, a mass of granite on the turnpike road near Morningside-the old banner stone of the Burghmuir. He then wheeled to the east by the beech-shaded Grange Loan (now bordered by villas, sequestered and grassy then), which leads by the old house of the Grange to the Causeway side Near Priestfield he entered the royal parks by a breach that had been made in the wall, and traversed the Hunter’s Bog, that had echoed so often .to the bugles of his ancestors. Leaving his troops to take up their camp, about noon he rode -with what emotions we may imagine-towards old Holyrood, of a thousand stirring memories, attended by the Duke of Perth and Lord Elcho, with a train of gentlemen and the veterans of his Highland guard-veterans of Sherriffmuir and Glenshiel- eighty in number, at the very time that Sir John Cope’s armament was disembarking at Dunbar. On reaching the eminence below St. Anthony’s chapel and well, when for the first time he came in sight of the old palace, he alighted from his horse, and paused to survey the beautiful scene. Then descending to the Duke’s Walk (so called because it had been a favourite resort of his grandfather, to whose flagrant misgovernment he owed his exile) he halted for a few minutes to show himself to the people, who now flocked around him in great numbers with mingled feelings of ccriosity and admiration. Loud huzzas came from the crowd, and many of the enthusiastic Jacobites knelt down and kissed his hand. He then mounted his horse-a fine bay gelding, presented to him by the Duke of Perth-and rode slowly towards the palace. On arriving in front of Holyrood he alighted, and was about to enter the royal dwelling, when a cannon ball fired from the Castle struck the front of Jarnes V.’s tower, and brought down a quantity of rubbish into the court-yard. No injury was done, however, by this gratuitous act of annoyance, and the Prince, passing in at the outer gate, and proceeding along the piazza, and the quadrangle, was about to enter the porch of what are called the Duke of Hamilton’s apartments, when James Hepburn of Keith, who had takeii part in the rising of 1715, ‘a model of ancient simplicity, manliness, and honour,’ stepped from the crowd, bent his knee in token of homage, and then drawing his sword, raised it aloft, and marshalled the way before Charles up-stairs.” On this day Charles wore a short tartan coat, with the star of St- Andrew, a blue velvet bonnet, and white cockade, a blue ribbon over his shoulder, scarlet breeches, and military boots, Tall, handsome, fair, and noble in aspect, he excited the admiration of all those fearless Jacobites, the ladies especially. “All were charmed with his appearance,” says Home; “they compared him to Robert Bruce, whom he resembled, they said, in his figure and fortune. The Whigs looked upon him with other eyes; they acknowledged that he was a goodly person, but observed that even in that triumphant hour, when about to enter the palace of his fathers, the air of his countenance was languid and melancholy; that he looked like a gentleman and man of fashion, but not like a hero or conqueror.” He adds, however, that he was greeted with acclaim by the peasantry, who, whenever he went abroad, sought to kiss his hand3 and even to touch his clothes. At one o’clock on the same day a body of the Cameron clansmen was drawn up around the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 11745. -the identical vehicle in which the deputies had returned from Gray’s Mill, ...

Vol. 2  p. 326 (Rel. 0.48)

GENERAL INDEX 37s Douglas, Sir William the Black Knight ofliddesdal;, II.53,III. 354. 355 Dou&s, Baron, 11. 351 Dough., Lady Jane, Execution of, Douglas of Grantully, Lady Jane, 1. 208, 158, 384, 11. 9, 1x5, 318, 349-351, 111. 9' Douglas-Stewart, Lady Jane, Story 1. 83. 84 of 11.344.34 Doiglas, Lady?-z::es, 111. 311 Douglas, Campbell, architect, 111. 155 11. 1g0 ; his dagghter, ib. Douglas General, 1. 281 Do.glas:WiIliam,minialurepainter, Douglas, the painter, 11. 89, 90 nouglas. the clan, 11. q, 111. 19 " Dou las " the tragedy of, 11, =+, 21 , , . Douglcu, Dr., p&:$G4~I. zg8 Douglas, Francis Brown, Lord Pro- Dougk Heron &Co. thebanken, Douglas'Hotel, St. hndrew Square, Douglas. Abbot William, 11. 48, Doune, Lord, 11. zoo, 111. 3 4 Doune Tenace. 11. zoo, 111. 74 Dovecots, Superstitious belief in, Dover, Duke of, 11. 36 Dow Craig, The, 11. 19 IOI, 1.06 Dowie Johnnie, I. rig, 19 * I + his therm 1. 3 121 "Dowie Coilege:' Club, 1. xi9 Drama, The early Edinburgh, 11. 23, a+, w; denounced by the Presbytery, II.24,39 ; theCalton Hill plays 11. IDrawbridge'lhe Leith 111. I 8 Dreghorn, iord, '11. 156,166, 911. Dreghorn Castle. 111. 323, *324 Drem Haronyof 11. 233 Dres; Scottish &like of English Dress 0; the Scottish gentry I Dromedary A travelling 11. 15 Drum Ha&, 1. 95, 111.'*345, 34< Drum Sands. near Cramond. 111 17, 151. vost 11. 284 II. 19: failur; of 11'. 35 I. mz, 11. 174 342 111. 116 111. 319 32 3 in 1;g 11. 280 centuryago, 111. ~ 3 9 brother, 111. 75 hummond of Hawthornden thi pat and historian, I. IS+, I1 a?, 54.62, 127, 217, =2,zSg, 111 26 28 ,354.35 ; Ben onson' vi:it, ii?. 354 ; tte cavalier an< poet,III. 355; hisloves,ib.; hi death ib. Drummbnd, Bishop W i l l i Aber nethy, 1. a6r, a64 Drummond, Colin, physician, 11 299,301 Drummond, Dr. John, 11.147 Drummond, Gearge, I. 176, 183 Drummond Hay, Coins of, 11. 87 Drummond, am-, artist and anti UXkUl, It'. b,'III.84, I W , ~ I)rummond Jean I. ga Drummond of &mock, The, Ill Drummoud Place. I. 217. 280. I1 Irawings by, I. *at%, *368 354 .. . '9'7 1927 I 7 289 Drummond $&e Gardens, 11. 19 Drumniond Street, I. 38, 11. 3 y 335. 338, 111. 3, 7 Drummore Lord I. 251 11. 348 DrumquhGel d i r d of,'I. 259, 26 Drumsheunh 'villane. 11. 211. w 111. 7rr y65; vicw'from, 11i.x-6 Drumsheugh, Forest of, I. 237, 11 %h 14: Drumsheugh House, 11. 115, Drumsheugh Park, 111. 70, fl 111. 139 h r y , Sir Willim, I. 48, 49, 116, )ruds gun-battery, I. fl, 330 111. 238 ; trcachcry Of, 111. 133, 134 Duchess of Bragarm," Play of the, I. 343 hddingston, I. 383, 11. 'go, 303, 307, *309, 3x1, 3139 3141 315, 316, 3x7, 318. 347. 111. 86. 131, 134, 146, 165,314 ; origin of the name, 11. 914 ; barony of 11. 316 hddingston Chnrc'h, 11. * 312: *313,314; gatewayof,II.*314, famous ministers of, 11. 315, 317 hddingston House 11. 317 3uddineston Loch,'I. 8, 11, 203, 327, 11. 86, 315. *316, 111. 58, 143 ; skating thereon, 11. 315 h f f , the actor, I. 350 Iuffus, Lady, 11. 333 hgdd Stewart's monument, 11. den, 111. 3567 357 1.9, * I11 Duke of Albany (see Jam= Duke Duke of Albany's Own Hwh- Duke oi Hamilton's apartments, Duke S t m t 11.117 181 Duke's Walk, The,'I. 8, 3la, 11. Dumfries, &:f, I. go, 11. 166, of Albany) landers 11. H o l p d &lace, I. 326 3'33, 306, 07 111. 12 Square I1 343 Dumbrect's Hotel, St. Andrew Dunbar kari of 111. 143 Dunba; Sir Jaies 11.2% Dunbar: william, burns' lines on, I. 142, 235, 236, 11. 255 Dunbar Battle of (sec Battles) Dunbar$ Close I. 6, 5511. 3 Duocan, AdmLl, 11.343, 111. 158, "23 3797 384,II.I54,174 31% 111.39 Duncan, Dr. .Andrev, physician, 1. Duncan Lady 11.343 Duncan: the p h e r , 11. 93 Duncan's Land, 111. 78 Dundas. Sir Lawrence, I. 217, XI. nu,'& Sir ?homas, 11. l a Dundas: Henry, Viscount Melville Dundas. Lord Chief B a n . 11.210. 86 196, 171 282 (sec Melville) 343 Dundas, Robcrt Lord Amiston 1. 123,15g,172, 42, 11. 39 II1.;83 Dundas, President, fatie; of Lord Melville, 1. 242, 346, 11. 210 Dundas, Lord Pradent, I. &,It. 38 Dundas, Lord Advocate, 11.343 Dundas, Sir David, 1. 366, 11. 287. 111. 105. 264: d o t e of h i . . bf, rri. 7 111. 86,105 Dnnda. oJAske, Bamn, 11. 171 Dundas of Bsefhwood, Sir Kobert, Dun&, Lady Emily, 11. xg8 nundas Lady Eleonora, 111. 2 9 D u n 4 Col. Walter, 1. 54 Dundas, Lieut.&. Francis, 11. Dundas, Mr.. 11. m, 283 Dundas riots, 1791. 11. 343 Dundas Street, 11. 199; its Rsi. dents, 11. ~gg, 111. 162 Dundee, Viscount, I. 62, 63,65,7t Dundonald, Earl of, 1. 105,331.11. Dundrennan Lord 11. 175 Dunglas and Greethaw, Baron, I1 279 Dunkeld, Bishops of, I. 39,253. I1 54, 251, 287, 111. 13% 307, 314 Dunfernline, Earl of, I. 3r6.11. z& Ddermline, Lord, 111. p, 32 Dunfermline, H o w of the A& 210, 342 a579 27" of, I. 212. 25 Dunlop, Dr. Jam, Fkquest to thq University, 111. 26 Dunmore Earl of 11. 310 Dunn's dote1 II.'Ba 166, 161 Dupplin, Yi'ount, 1: 50 Durie. Lord, I. i68,242,III.31~,33! Durie, AbborsofMelrose, I.a53,25. hrie George, Abbot of Dunfermline' I. 2x2 >yce,'the painter 11.87 Iysart, Lyonell L r l of,' 2I.ip; Countess of, 11. 167 Jyvours stane, The, I. 152 E Fade and Henderson. nurservmen. . I 111. 159 Eagle's Rock, Cramond, Ill. 315 Ear and Eye Dispenw-, I. a86 Earl Gre Street 11. 2x8 Earthen hound, i. gS, 102,106,116, 255, 11. 31. 80, 82. 9% 199. 4 3 bead of the, 11. 93-100; new from Princes Street, Phtr r7 East and W a t Mayfield Houses, 111. 51 3x6, 349,111. .so East Cross Causeway, 1. 384. 11. Eat end of High Street, Nethei Bow, and west end of Camngate, T 1 ~ E Eastbaik. Lord, 11. 10 Fst Gardens, 11.127 East Hermitage Place, Leith, 111 East India Club, 111. 125 E& London Street 11. 185 East Maitland Strc;t, 11. aoq East Morningside H o w , 111. 47 East Pilton, 111. '309 East Princes Street Gardens. I1 166 100 a14 East b e e n Street Gardens, 11. XI; East Register Street, 11. 176 East Richmond Street, 11. 337 East Warriston House, 111. IM Easter, The district, 11. 221 Easter and Wester Pilton, 111. p Easter Coates. Mansionof, 11. III Easter Hill, 11. 199 Easterlings, 111.94 Easter Road, 11. 309, III.128,13i Easter Wemy4 I. 3ag Eastern and Wekern Duddiingston 133, 15% 158 160 11. 3r4 Echo Bank, 111. 5 4 57; old how Echbing Rmz, The, 11. 313 Edgar, Rear-Admiral, 111. 142 Edgar's map of Edinbur h, 1. 3" 338, 34% 3% 3731 38551. 17, 81 Edgefield's (Lord), House, I. 241 Edge-tool maker, The first. 11. a6 Edinburgh Academy 111. 81 E$nburgh, Arms of ;he City of, 1 Edinburgh Castle, I. *I, z, 14-79 Stawand Camden'saccannts 15 the lecend of the White fiar, 21; Holyrood Abbey, oa; th monks of the Castrum Puelb rum, ib. ; capture of the Castle b the English, ib.; it becomes royal.residence,,a3; wars of th Scottlsh succession, ib . "Wa lace's Cradle," 24, *z;f the foi tress dismantled, a+ ;again in th hands of the En lah, 25' Bu locks suacagem t r its reAveq ib.;repairofthefort~,26;pr( gress of the City, ib. : Henry I\ mvades the City, 27; the Englii baffled, ib. : Al+y's pr0phe.q ab.; lamre rding the buMm of houses. ir; sumptuary law 28 ; murder of James I., 29 ; c1 ronation of James 11.. ib. ; Caul intrigues, 29,30 ; Lord Chancellc Crichton, 30; arrogance of t h Earl of Douglas ib. : the I' blac dinner " ib . th; Castle besiegec 31 . th; &;'fortified i6. ; +m< IIi. and his haugdiy no ill@ 32 ; plots of the Duke of Alban and Earl of Mar, ib. ; mysterioi death of Mar, ib.; apture an escape of the Duke ofAlbany, 3 .E.; ciptitity of James HI., y ichard of Gloumter at Edii burgh,+.; the"C;ol$m Chartei of the city, ib. ; the Blue RL) ket," 34, * 36 ; accession of Jam at 111. 5 2- 246,267. VI, 330,334 16 IV 35 : tournaments, ib. : " thc se& sisters ot' Borthwick." v.5.'- 36.; the " Ylodden Wall," 38, +o ; reign of Jam- V 38-42 ; Edmburgh underthe f&tionsofnobles, 38-40 ; the castle attacked by the Earl of Hertford, 43,111.16g; death of Queen Mary of Guise, I. 44, 45; accession of Mary Stuart, 45h; birth of Jam- VI 46 *48: t esregeof1~73,47, I I f ?$ ; the a t y bombarded from the astle, I. 47 ; Elkabeth'sspy, 48; Sir W. Drury's dispositions for the &Fe, 48,49 : execuaon of Sir W: h.rkaldy, 50.: repairof the ruins, ab. : execution of the Earl of Morton, ib.; visit of Charles I p, 51; procession to Holyr&, Si : coronation of Charles I., ib. : the struggle against episcopacy, g1,52; siege of 1644 52 - the spectre drummer 54; th; castle baieged by CroLwell ib. ; ten years' peace in Edinbkh 55 ; the Restoration, ib. ; th; Argylcs, 56-58 ; the accession of ames VII., 58 ; sentence of the rl of Argyle, 58,59 ; h~ clever 59 ; the last sleep of Ar- ?e?.; hisdeath, ib. ; tortureof the covenanters, 59,150; proclamation of Williarn and Mary, pII; the siege ,of 1689 6 internew between the Duk;p?&rdon and Viscount Dundee, ib. ; brilliant defence of the &de, 63,64 ; Qpitulation of the Duke of Gordm, 65 ; inner gateway of the Castle * 65 ; the spectre of Clawhaw: 66 ; torture of Neville Payne, id. ; Jacobite plots, ib.: entombing of thc regalia 66, 67; project for surprismg ;he fortnss, SI ; right of sanctuary abolished. ib. ; Lord Drummonfla plot, 68 : Dome acv. biteprixmen, 6g; "rebeldies" 70 ; iunes Macgregor, ib. ; de at escape, 71 : tears as to the destruction of the crown, sword, and m p ~ e , ib.; crown-room opened in 1794 and in 1817 id. ; Mons Mag, 74 ; general d&p tion of the Castle, 7 5 7 9 Edinburgh Castle and nty Ancient and modern vieis of. 1. q. 17. k Cast / e vaults, 70 71 ; attempts - from various points, 11.193) 216, 111. 117 Edinburgh in 1745 1. 331-334; Charles Stuart in \he mty, I. 323 Edinburgh Origin of the name, I. 12 ; the infant city, I. 26 ; first enclosed by walls, 1. 31 Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway, 11. 19 113 Edinburgh and Leith Seamen's Friendly Society, 111. q Ediabzdrqh Aa'vmtkr, The, 1.318, 339, 11. 'VV 11% '7% 3a4 35'. III.63r703 73 752 7% 85, 11% 123, 124l135.139.154,~34.~35.258,306 Edinburgh Assembly Rooms, 1.314, inburgh Assoclation for Impmving the Condition of the Poor, 11. 162 Edinburgh Arscdation of Science and Arts, 11. 143 Edinburgh Bishop of 111.147 Edinburgh' Blind Asyhm, 111. a54 Edinburgh Bamic W e n , Leith Walk 111. 98. its coratm ib. Edinb&h &teryCom&y, 11. "17 Edinburgh Chamber of Commerce and Manufactures, I. 379, 111. 288 Edinburgh Che5 Club, 11.152 Edinburgh Club, The old, 111. Ed:s7 * 3 4 3x7 ... INDEX 37s Douglas, Sir William the Black Knight ofliddesdal;, II.53,III. 354. 355 Dou&s, Baron, 11. ...

Vol. 6  p. 375 (Rel. 0.48)

Hig5 Street.! BISHOP BOTHWELL. 219 . CHAPTEX X Y v r . THE. HIGH STREET ( ~ ~ ~ f h t d ) . The Ancient Markets-The House of Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney-The Bishop and Queen Mary-His Sister Anne-Sir Williarn Dick. of Braid-& Colossal Wealth-Hard Fortune-The “ Lamexable State”-Advocates’ Close-Sir James Stewart’s House-Andreu Cmbie, ‘ I Counsellor Pleydell ”-Scougal’s House-His Picture Gallery-Roxburghe Close-Waniston’s Close-Lmd Philiphaugh‘s House-Bruce of Binning’s Mansion-Messrs. W. and R. Chambers’s Printing and Publkhing Establishment-History of the Firm- House of Su Thomas Craig-Sir Archibald Johnston of Warnstoa PREVIOUS to 1477 there were no particular places assigned for holding the different markets in the city, and this often caused much personal strife among the citizens. To remedy this evil, James 1II.j by letters patent, ordained that the markets for the various commodities should be held in the following parts of the city, viz. :- In the Cowgate, the place for the sale of hay, straw, grass, and horse-meat, ran from the foot ol Forester‘s Wynd to the foot of Peebles Wynd. The flesh market was to be held in the High Street, on both sides, from Niddry’s Wynd to the Blackfriars Wynd; the salt market to be held in the former Wynd. The crames, or booths, for chapmen were to be set up between the Bell-house and the Tron on the north side of the street; the booths of the hatmakers and skinners to be on the opposite side of the way. The wood and timber market extended from Dalrymple’s Yard to the Greyfriars, and westward. The place for the sale of shoes, and of red barked leather, was between Forrester’s Wynd and the west wall of Dalrymple’s Yard. The cattIe-market, and that for the sale of slaughtered sheep, wcs to be abaut the Tron-beam, and so U doun throuch to the Friar’s Wynd ; alsa, all pietricks, pluvars, capones, conyngs, chekins, and all other wyld foulis and tame, to be usit and sald about the Market Croce.” All living cattle were not to be brought into the town, but to be sold under the walls, westward of the royal stables, or lower end of the Grassmarket. Meal, grain, and corn were to be retailed from the Tolbooth up to Liberton’s Wynd. The Upper Bow was the place ordained for the sale of all manner of cloths, cottons, and haberdashery; also for butter, cheese, and wool, “and sicklike gudis yat suld be weyif” at a tron set there, but not to be opened before nine A.M. Beneath the Nether Bow, and about st. Mary’s Wynd, was the place set apart for cutlers, smiths, lorimers, lock-makers, “and sicklike workmen ; and all armour, p i t h , gear,” and so forth, were to be sold in the Friday market, before the Greyfriars’. In Gordon of Rothiemay’s map “the fleshstocks ” are shown as being in the Canongate, immediately below the Nether Bow Port. Descending the High Street, after passing Bank Street, to which we have already referred, there is situated one of the most remarkable old edifices in the city-the mansion of Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney. It stands at the foot of Byres’ Close, so named from the house of Sir John Byres of Coates, but is completely hidden from every point save the back windows of the Dui0 Review office. A doorway on the east side of the close gives access to a handsome stone stair, guarded by a curved balustrade, leading to a garden terrace that overlooked the waters of the loch. Above this starts abruptly up the north front of the house, semihexagonal in form, surmounted by three elegantlycarved dormer windows, having circular pediments, and surmounted by a finiaL On one was inscribed L u s prbique Deo; ona another, FeZider, infeZix. In this edifice (long used as a warehouse by Messrs. Clapperton and Co.) dwelt Adam, Bishop of Orkney, the same prelate who, at four in the. morning of the 15th of May, 1567, performed in the chapel royal at Holyrood the fatal marriage ceremony which gave Bothwell possession of the. unfortunate and then despairing Queen Mary. He was a senator of the College of Justice, and the royal letter in his favour bears, “Providing. always ye find him able and qualified for administration of justice, and conform to the acts and statutes of the College.” He married the unhappy queen after thenew forms, “not with the mess, but with preachings,” according to the ‘‘ Diurnal of Occurrents,” in the chapel; according to Keith and others, “in the great hall, where the Council usually met”’ But he seemed a pliable prelate where his own interests were concerned ; he was one of the first to desert his royal mistress, and, after her enforced abdication, placed the crown upon the head of her infant son ; and in 1568, according to the book of the ‘‘ Universal Kirk,” he bound himself to preach a sermon in Holyrood, and therein to confess publicly his offence in performing a marriage ceremony for Bothwell and Mary. As the name of the bishop was appended to that infamous bond of adherence granted by the Scottish nobles to Bothwell, before the latter put in practice his ambitious schemes against his sovereign, it is ... Street.! BISHOP BOTHWELL. 219 . CHAPTEX X Y v r . THE. HIGH STREET ( ~ ~ ~ f h t d ) . The Ancient ...

Vol. 2  p. 219 (Rel. 0.48)

2 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Kirk-of-Field. land of umyle Hew Berrie’s tenement and chamber adjacent yr to, lying in the Cowgaitt, on the south side of the street, betwixt James Earl of Buchan’s land on the east, and Thomas Tod’s on ye west.” This lady was a daughter of John Lord Kennedy, and was the widow of the aged Earl of Angus, who died of a broken heart after the battle of Flodden. In 1450-1 an obligation by the Corporation of Skinners in favour of St. Christopher‘s altar in St. Giles’s was signed with much fornialityon the 12th of January, infra ecdesiam Beate &Iarie He Canzpo, in presence of Sir Alexander Hundby, John Moffat, and John Hendirsone, chaplains thereof, Thomas Brown, merchant, and other witnesses. ((‘ Burgh Rec.”) James Laing, a burgess of Edinburgh, founded an additional chaplaincy in this church during the reign of James V., whose royal confirmation of it is dated 19th June, 1530, and the grant is made “ to a chaplain celebrating divine service at the high altar within the collegiate church of Blessed Marie-in-the-Fields.” When made collegiate it was governed by a provost, who with eight prebendaries and two choristers composed the college ; but certain rights appear to have been reserved then by the canons of Holyrood, for in 1546 we find Robert, Commendator of the abbey, presenting George Kerr to a. prebend in it, “according to the force and form of the foundation.” There is a charter by James V., arst May, 1531, confirming a previous one of 16th May, I 53 I, by the lady before mentioned, “Janet Kennedy Domina de Bothvill,” of tenements in Edinburgh, and an annual rent of twenty shillings for a prebendary to perform divine service “in the college kirk of the Blessed Virgin Mary-in-the-Fields, or without the walls of Edinburgh, pro sat& #sius Domini Regis (JamesV.), and for the souls OP his father (James IV.), and the late Archibald, Earl of Angus” Among the most distinguished provosts of the Kirk-of-Field was its second one, Richard Bothwell, rector of Ashkirk, who in A4ugust and December, 1534, was a commissioner for opening Parliament. He died in the provost’s house in 1547. The prebendal buildings were of considerable extent, exclusive of the provost’s house, or lodging. David Vocat, one of the prebendaries, and master of the Grammar School of Edinburgh, clerk and orator of Holyrood,” was a liberal ’ benefactor to the church ; but it and the buildings attached to it seem to have suffered severely at the hands of the English during the invasion of 1544 or 1547. In the ‘‘ Inventory of the Townis purchase from the Marquis of Hamilton in 1613,’’ with a view to the founding of a college, says Wilson, we have found an abstract of “a feu charter granted by Mr. Alexander Forrest, provost of the collegiate church of the Blessed Xlary-in-the-Fields, near Edinr., and by the prebends of the said church,” dated 1544, wherein it is stated:-“Considering that ther houses, especially ther hospital annexed and incorporated with ther college, were burnt down and destroyed by their add enemies of EngZand, so that nothing of their said hospital was left, but they are altogether waste and entirely destroyed, wherethrough the divine worship is not a little decreased in the college, because they were unable to rebuild the said hospital. . . , Therefore they gave and granted, set in feu forme, and confirmed to a magnificent and illustrious prince, James, Duke of Chattelherault, Earl of Arran, Lord Hamilton, &c., all and hail their tenement or hospital, with the yards and pertinints thereof, lying within the burgh of Edinburgh, in the street or wynd called School House Wynd, on the east part thereof.” The duke appears, it is added, from frequent allusions by contemporaries, to have built an abode for his family on the site of this hospital, and that edifice served in future years as the hall of the first college of Edinburgh. In 1556 we find Alexander Forrest, the provost of the kirk, in the name of the Archbishop of St. Andrews, presenting a protest, signed by Mary of Guise, to the magistrates, praying them to suppress ‘‘ certain odious ballettis and rymes baith sett furth ” by certain evil-inclined persons, who had also demolished certain images, but with what end is unknown. (“Burgh Records.”) But two years after Bishop Lesly records that when the Earl of Argyle and his reformers entered Edinburgh, after spoiling the Black and Grey Friars, and having their “ haill growing treis plucked up be the ruittis,” they destroyed and burned all the images in the Kirk-of-Field. In 1562 the magistrates made application to Queen Mary, among other requests, for the Kirk-of- Field and all its adjacent buildings and ground, for the purpose of erecting a school thereon, and for the revenues of the old foundation to endow the same ; but they were not entirely made over to the city for the purpose specified till 1566. The quadrangle of the present university now occupies the exact site of the church of St. Mary-inthe- Fields, including that of the prebendal buildings, and, says Wilson-who in this does not quite accord with Bell-to a certain extent the house of the provost, so fatally known in history; and the main access and approach to the whole establishment was ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Kirk-of-Field. land of umyle Hew Berrie’s tenement and chamber adjacent yr to, lying ...

Vol. 5  p. 2 (Rel. 0.48)

politically. These documents had been perfidiously sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis was condemned to die the death of a traitor. From the Castle he begged in vain a ten days’ respite, that he might crave pity of the king. ‘‘I placed the crown upon his head,” said he, mourn- - fully, “ and this is my reward ! ” An escape was planned. He lay in bed for some days feigning iuyess, and the Marchioness came in a sedan to visit him. Being of the same stature, he assumed her dress and coif; but when about to step into the sedan his courage failed him, and he abandoned the attempt. The night before execution he was removed to the most ancient prison in Edinburgh-an edifice in Mauchine’s Close, long since removed, where the Marchioness awaited him. “The Lord will requite it,” she exclaimed, as she wept bitterly on his breast. “ Forbear, Margaret,” said. he, calmly, “I pity my enemies, and am as content in this ignominious prison as in yonder Castle of Edinburgh.” With his last breath he expressed abhorrence of the death of Charles I, and on the 27th May his head was struck from his body by the Maiden, at the west end of the Tolbooth. By patent all his ancient earldom and estates were restored to his son, h r d Lorne, then a prisoner in the Castle, where on one occasion he had a narrow escape, when playing “ with hand bullets ” {bowls 3) one of which, as Wodrow records, struck him senseless. On the 30th May, 1667, the batteries of the Castle returned the salute of the English fleet, which came to anchor in the roads under the pennant of Sir Jeremiah Smythe; who came thither in quest of the Dutch fleet, which had been bombarding Burntisland. Janies Duke of Alhany and York succeeded the odious Duke Q€ Lauderdale in the administration of Scottish affairs, and won the favour of all classes, while he resided at Holyrood awaiting the issue of the famous Bill of Exclusion, which would deprive him of the throne of England on the demise of his brother, and hence it became his earnest desire to secure at least Scotland, the hereditary kingdom of his race. OR his fixst Visit to &e Cask, on 30th October, 1680, Mons Meg br-rst when the guns were saluting-a ring near the touchhole giving way, which, saith Fountainhall, was deemed by all men a bad omen. His lordship adds that as the gun was charged by an English gunner, required by the obnoxious Test Act as Commis. Goner of the Scottish Treasury; and on the 12th Scottish manners gradually gave way before the affability of such entertainers as the Duchess Mary d’ Este of Modena, and the Princess Anne, “and the novel luxuries of the English court formed an attraction to the Scottish grandees. Tea was introduced for the first time into Scotland on this occasion, and given by the duchess as a great treat to the Scottish ladies. Balls, plays, and masquerades were also attempted; but the last proved too great an innovation on the rigid manners of that period to be tolerated.” The accession of King James VII. is thus recorded by Lord Fountainhall (&‘ Decisions,” vol. i.) : --“Feb. 6th, 1685. The Privy Council is called extraordinary, on the occasion of an express sent them by his royal highness the Duke of Albany, telling that, on Monday the 2nd February, the king was seized with a violent and apoplectic fit, which stupefied him for four hours ; but, by letting twelve ounces of blood and applying cupping-glasses to his head, he revived. This unexpected surprise put our statesmen in a hurly-burly, and was followed by the news of the death of his Majesty, which happened on the 7th of February, and came home to us on the roth, in the morning ; whereupon a theatre was immediately erected at the cross of Edinburgh, and the militia companies drawn out in arms ; and, at ten o’clock, the Chancellor, Treasurer, and all the other officers of State, with the nobility, lotds of Privy Council and Session, the magistrates and town council of Edinburgh, came to the cross, with the lion king-at-arms, his heralds and trumpeters ; the Chance!;or carried his own purse, and, weeping, proclaimed Jimes Duke af Albany the ~nZy and undoubtcrt king of this realm, by fhe-tiile of Jirnes VfL, the clerk registrar reading the words of the Act to him, and all of them swore faith and allegiance to him. Then the other proclamation was then read, whereby King James VII. continued all oAices till he had more time to send down new commissions. . - . . Then the Castle shot a round of guns, and sermon began, wherein Mr. John Robertson did regret our loss, but desiredour tears might be dried up when we looked upon so brave and excellent a successor. The Privy Council called foa all the seals, and broke them, appointing new ones with the name of James VII. to be made.” In r68c the Earl of Argyie was committed to the Castle for the third time for declining the oath . having no cannon in all England so big as she.” During the duke’s residence at Holyrood a splendid of December ,an assize brought in their verdict, by the Marquis of Montrose, his hereditary foe, finding ... These documents had been perfidiously sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis was condemned to ...

Vol. 1  p. 59 (Rel. 0.48)

politically. These documents had been perfidiously sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis was condemned to die the death of a traitor. From the Castle he begged in vain a ten days’ respite, that he might crave pity of the king. ‘‘I placed the crown upon his head,” said he, mourn- - fully, “ and this is my reward ! ” An escape was planned. He lay in bed for some days feigning iuyess, and the Marchioness came in a sedan to visit him. Being of the same stature, he assumed her dress and coif; but when about to step into the sedan his courage failed him, and he abandoned the attempt. The night before execution he was removed to the most ancient prison in Edinburgh-an edifice in Mauchine’s Close, long since removed, where the Marchioness awaited him. “The Lord will requite it,” she exclaimed, as she wept bitterly on his breast. “ Forbear, Margaret,” said. he, calmly, “I pity my enemies, and am as content in this ignominious prison as in yonder Castle of Edinburgh.” With his last breath he expressed abhorrence of the death of Charles I, and on the 27th May his head was struck from his body by the Maiden, at the west end of the Tolbooth. By patent all his ancient earldom and estates were restored to his son, h r d Lorne, then a prisoner in the Castle, where on one occasion he had a narrow escape, when playing “ with hand bullets ” {bowls 3) one of which, as Wodrow records, struck him senseless. On the 30th May, 1667, the batteries of the Castle returned the salute of the English fleet, which came to anchor in the roads under the pennant of Sir Jeremiah Smythe; who came thither in quest of the Dutch fleet, which had been bombarding Burntisland. Janies Duke of Alhany and York succeeded the odious Duke Q€ Lauderdale in the administration of Scottish affairs, and won the favour of all classes, while he resided at Holyrood awaiting the issue of the famous Bill of Exclusion, which would deprive him of the throne of England on the demise of his brother, and hence it became his earnest desire to secure at least Scotland, the hereditary kingdom of his race. OR his fixst Visit to &e Cask, on 30th October, 1680, Mons Meg br-rst when the guns were saluting-a ring near the touchhole giving way, which, saith Fountainhall, was deemed by all men a bad omen. His lordship adds that as the gun was charged by an English gunner, required by the obnoxious Test Act as Commis. Goner of the Scottish Treasury; and on the 12th Scottish manners gradually gave way before the affability of such entertainers as the Duchess Mary d’ Este of Modena, and the Princess Anne, “and the novel luxuries of the English court formed an attraction to the Scottish grandees. Tea was introduced for the first time into Scotland on this occasion, and given by the duchess as a great treat to the Scottish ladies. Balls, plays, and masquerades were also attempted; but the last proved too great an innovation on the rigid manners of that period to be tolerated.” The accession of King James VII. is thus recorded by Lord Fountainhall (&‘ Decisions,” vol. i.) : --“Feb. 6th, 1685. The Privy Council is called extraordinary, on the occasion of an express sent them by his royal highness the Duke of Albany, telling that, on Monday the 2nd February, the king was seized with a violent and apoplectic fit, which stupefied him for four hours ; but, by letting twelve ounces of blood and applying cupping-glasses to his head, he revived. This unexpected surprise put our statesmen in a hurly-burly, and was followed by the news of the death of his Majesty, which happened on the 7th of February, and came home to us on the roth, in the morning ; whereupon a theatre was immediately erected at the cross of Edinburgh, and the militia companies drawn out in arms ; and, at ten o’clock, the Chancellor, Treasurer, and all the other officers of State, with the nobility, lotds of Privy Council and Session, the magistrates and town council of Edinburgh, came to the cross, with the lion king-at-arms, his heralds and trumpeters ; the Chance!;or carried his own purse, and, weeping, proclaimed Jimes Duke af Albany the ~nZy and undoubtcrt king of this realm, by fhe-tiile of Jirnes VfL, the clerk registrar reading the words of the Act to him, and all of them swore faith and allegiance to him. Then the other proclamation was then read, whereby King James VII. continued all oAices till he had more time to send down new commissions. . - . . Then the Castle shot a round of guns, and sermon began, wherein Mr. John Robertson did regret our loss, but desiredour tears might be dried up when we looked upon so brave and excellent a successor. The Privy Council called foa all the seals, and broke them, appointing new ones with the name of James VII. to be made.” In r68c the Earl of Argyie was committed to the Castle for the third time for declining the oath . having no cannon in all England so big as she.” During the duke’s residence at Holyrood a splendid of December ,an assize brought in their verdict, by the Marquis of Montrose, his hereditary foe, finding ... These documents had been perfidiously sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis was condemned to ...

Vol. 1  p. 58 (Rel. 0.48)

very probable that the Earl may often have been a guest in that old mansion, and King James himself in later years. The bishop, who married Margaret Murray of Touchadam, died in 1593, and was succeeded in the old mansion by his son John Bothwell, designed of Auldhamer, who accompanied King James to England, and was created Lord Holyroodhouse, in the peerage of Scotland, in 1607. Here dwelt his sister Anne, a woman of remarkable beauty, whose wrongs are so touchingly re- THE EXCISE OFFICE AT THE NETHERBOW. (After a Pkotograplr & A k x d e r A. Ingir.) ‘‘ an English villain,” according to Balfour-a servsnt boy, out of revenge against his master. In the Scots Magazine for 1774 we have a notice of the death of Eleonora Bothwell, daughter of the deceased Henry, Lord Holyroodhouse. Alexander, his son, Master of Holyroodhouse, who died about the middle of the last century, ended the line of the family, of whom no relic now remains save the tomb of Bishop Adam, which still exists in Holyrood chapel On the front of .corded in the sweet old ballad known as “ Lady Anne Bothwell’s Lament.” She was betrayed in a .disgraceful Ziaison by Sir Alexander Erskine (a son af John, 14th Earl of Mar), of whom a portrait by Jamieson is still extant, and represents him in the military dress of his time-a handsome man in a cuirass .and scarf, with a face full of nobility of expression. The lady’s name does not appear in the Douglas peerage ; but her cruel desertion by Sir Alexander was confidently believed at the time to have justly exposed him to the vengeance of heaven, for he perished with the Earl of Haddington and others in the Castle of Dunglas, which was blown up by guhpowder in 1640, through the instrumentality of the third pillar from the east is a tablet with his arms-a chevron, between three trefoils slipped, with a crescent, and a very long inscription, the first six lines of which run thus :- “ Hic reconditus jacet nobilissimus vir Dominus Adamus Bothuelius, Episcopus, Orcadum et Zethlandiz : Commendatonus Ifonasteni, Sancti Crucis ; Senator et Consiliarius Regius : qui obiit anno ztatis suz 67, 23 die Meosis August4 Anno Domini 1593.” The ancient edifice is associated with an eminent citizen, who lived in later but not less troublesome and warlike times, Sir William Dick, ancestor of the present baronets of Prestonfield. The south, ... probable that the Earl may often have been a guest in that old mansion, and King James himself in later ...

Vol. 2  p. 220 (Rel. 0.48)

354 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Meadows ‘upwards of eighty years of age, as captain-general, and the Earl of Wemyss as lieutenant-general, marched at the head of the Royal Archers, with colours flying, from the Parliament Square to Holyrood, and thence to Leith, wbere they shot for the Edinburgh Arrow, and returned with similar parade, receiving from all guards and troops the honours that are paid to the regular army ; but in the following year (1715), the Earl of Cromartie being dead, they vere led by the Earl of Wemyss to a similar parade. On the 16th of June a letter addressed to Wodrow says :-“ Upon Monday last the Royal Company of Archers, consisting of about zoo, all clad in the old Scottish garb, made their parade through this town and in Leith; they all consist of Jacobites, except five or six At night they came to the playhouse, and betwixt the acts they desired Sir Thomas Dalzell (who is mad) to order the musicians to play that air called ‘Let the King enjoy his own again.’ After it was over, the whole house clapp’d 3 times lowd, but a few hissed.’’ These facts serve to show that what was called the Royal Ccmpany of Archers all through the reigns of Anne and George I. was really a sodality, composed exclusively of the Jacobite aristocracyin short, a marked muster for the House of Stuart. Their leaders were, and have been always, nobles of the highest rank; they had “their adjutant and other officers, their colours, music, and uniforms, and pretty effective military organisation and appearance.” (“ Dom. Ann.”) Their dress was tartan, trimmed with green silk fringe ; their bonnets were trimmed with green and white ribbons, with St. Andrew’s cross in front; their horns and swords were decorated with green and white ribbons, and the dresses of the officers were laid over with rich silver lace. We are told that “the cavalier spirit of Allan Ramsay glowed at seeing these elegant specimens of the Arisior’ of Scotland engaged at butts and rovers, and poured itself forth in verses to their praise.” After the futile insurrection of 1715, the Archers made no parade for nine years; bur on James, Duke of Hamilton, K.T., being chosen captaingeneral, they marched to Musselburgh in 1724, and afterwards occasionally till, the 10th July, 1732, when they had a special parade, in which the Jacobite element greatly predominated. A guard of honour brought the colours from the Duke of Hamilton’s apartments at Holyrood, when the march to the Links began under his Grace as captain-general, preceded by Lord Bruce “ on horseback, with fine Turkish furniture, as majorgeneral, in absence of the Earl of Crawford.” - “Th’e Lord Provost and magistrates saw the .- . procession from a window, and were saluted by the several officers, as did General Wade from a balcony in the Earl of Murray’s lodgings in the Canongate. The Governor of Damascus came likewise to see the ceremony. Betwixt one and two the company arrived in the Links, whence, after shooting for the arrow (which was won by Balfour of Foret), they marched into Leith in the same order, and after dinner returned to the city, and saw acted the tragedy called Macbeafh.” (Caledonian Mermrj; Including the sovereign’s prize, there are seventeen shot for annually by the archers. Among these are the City of Edinburgh silver arrow, given in 1709, and the Musselburgh silver arrow, which appears to have been shot for so far back as 1603. As in the instance of many of the other prizes, the victor retains it only for a year, and returns it with a medal appended, and engraved with a motto, device, or name. The affairs of the Guard are managed by a preses, six councillors, a secretary, and treasurer. The rules say “That all persons possessed of Scottish domicile or of landed estate in Scotland, or younger sons, though not domiciled in Scotland, of a Scottish landed proprietor qualified to act as a commissioner of supply, are eligible for admission to the royal company.” After the battle of Culloden and the decay of Jacobitism, the vigour of the Archer Guard declined, till some new life was infused into its ranks by William St. Clair of Roslin, and then it was that the present Archers’ Hall, near Hope Park End, was built. There an acre of ground was feued from the city, at a feu of 6 1 2 yearly, with double that sum every twenty-fifth year, and the foundation stone was laid by Mr. St. Clair on August the 15th’ 1776. The dining-hall measures 40 feet by 24, and is IS feet in height. There are two other rooms about 18 feet square, with other apartments, kitchen, &c The last most important appearances of the Royal Archers have been on the occasion of George IV.’s visit in 18zzwhen they wore the old tartan costume, which was afterwards replaced by tunics of Lincoln green,-on the visit of Queen Victoria, and the first great volunteer review in the Royal Park. An old gable-ended house, the windows of.which looked westward along the vista of the Meadows, and their Fredecessor, the Burgh Loch, was traditionally said to have been inhabited by George. Heriot, but was removed in 1843, when the Messrs. Nelson built there an establishment, which, for printing, publishing. and bookbinding together, was the most extensive in Scotland. His initials, I734 ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Meadows ‘upwards of eighty years of age, as captain-general, and the Earl of ...

Vol. 4  p. 354 (Rel. 0.48)

132 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig. oxen, and other things belonging to a field, by the hands of him, namely, who is called Hood of Leith, from me and my heirs for ever, as freely, quietly, and honourably free from all service and secular exactions as any other gifts more freely and quietly given, are possessed in the Kingdom of Scotland. And that this gift may continue, I have set my seal to this writing.” Among those who witnessed this document were the Lord Chancellor of Scotland, Hugh de Sigillo, In May, 1398, Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig granted to the citizens of Edinburgh, by charter, full liberty to carry away earth and gravel, lying upon the bank of the river, to enlarge their port of Leith, to place a bridge over the said river, to moor ships in any part of his lands, without the said port, with the right of road and passage, through all his lands of Restalrig. “All which grants and concessions be warranted absolutely, under penalty of A200 sterling to be uptaken RESTALRIG CHURCH, 1817. (A / t e r m Etckirrg8y3amcr Skene of Rdislaw.) Bishop of Dunkeld (called the “Poor Man’s Bishop lJ) ; Walter, Abbot of Holyrood, previously Prior of Inchcolm, who died in 1217 ; W. de Edinham, Archdeacon of Dunkeld ; Master R. de Raplaw ; and Robert Hood, of Leith. In 1366, under David II., Robert Multerer (Moutray?) received a charter of lands, within the barony of Restalrig, before pertaining to John Colti ; and some three years afterwards, John of Lestalrick (sic) holds a charter of the mill of Instrother, in Fifeshire, granted by King David at Perth. Towards the latter part of the fourteenth century the barony had passed into the possession of the Logans, a powerful family, whose name is insepsrably mingled with the history of Leith. by the said burgesses and community in the name of damages and expenses, and LIOO sterling to the fabric of the church of St. Andrews before the commencement of any plea.” (Burgh Charters.) In 1413-4 another of his charters grants to the city, “that the’piece of ground in Leith between the gate of John Petindrich and a wall newly built on the shore of the water of Leith, should be free to the said community for placing their goods and merchandise thereon, and carrying the same to and from the sea, in all time coming.” Westward of the village church, and on the summit of a rock overhanging Loch End, are the massive walls of the fortalice in which the barons of Restalrig resided ; but a modem house is engrafted ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig. oxen, and other things belonging to a field, by the hands of him, namely, ...

Vol. 5  p. 132 (Rel. 0.47)

305 Leith Wynd.1 THE DUCHESS OF LENNOX Pont, an illustrious Venetian who came to Scotland in the train of Mary of Guise-the last Provost of Trinity, in 1585, sold all the remaining rights that he had in the foundation, which James VI. confirmed by charter two years afterwards. When the old religion was abolished, the revenues of the church amounted to only A362 Scots yearly. Its seal, Scotland and Gueldres quarterly, is beautifully engraved among the Holyrood charters. In May, 1592, Sophia Ruthven, the young Duchess of Lennox, was buried with great solemnity at the east end of the church. She wss a daughter of the luckless Earl of Gowrie, who died in 1584 andwas forcibly abducted from a house in Easter Wemyss, where she had been secluded to secure her from the violence of the Duke’s passion. But he carried to Parliament for assistance, to enforce the payment of his rents in Teviotdale. In June, 1526, its Provost sat in Parliament. In 1567 the Earl of Moray, then Regent of Scotland, gave to Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar, then Provost of the City, the Trinity College church with all that belonged to it ; and the latter bestowed it on the city. Robert Pont-an eminent churchman, judge, and miscellaneous writer, the son of John de 18th of December, 1596, by her will, dated 9th of that month, bequeathed IOO merks to the Trinity College church, for a “burial1 place there. The church and other prebendal buildings suffered with the other religious houses in the city during the tumults of the Reformation, and, according to Nicoll, in later years, at the hands of Cromwell’s sordiers. While trenching the edifice, seeking for the remains of the Queen, those of many others, all Iong before violated and disturbed, were found, together with numbers of bullocks’ horns, and an incredible quantity of sheep-head bones, and fmgments of old Flemish quart bottles, the de’bris doubtless of the repasts of the workmen of 1462 ; and every stone in the building bore those marks with which all freemasons are familiar. ~ her OE on his own horse in the night, and married i her in defiance of king and kirk. This was on the 19th of April, 1591, consequently she did not long survive her abduction. Lady Jane Hamilton, youngest daughter of the Duke of Chatelherault, and Countess of the Earl of Eglinton, from whom she was divorced, in consequence of the parties standing in the fourth degree of consanguinity, who died at Edinburgh on the ... Leith Wynd.1 THE DUCHESS OF LENNOX Pont, an illustrious Venetian who came to Scotland in the train of Mary of ...

Vol. 2  p. 305 (Rel. 0.47)

366 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Moultray’s Hill. - dedicated to him,”) but by whom founded or when, is quite unknown ; and from this edifice an adjacent street was for ages named St. Ninian’s Row. “The under part of the building still remains,” to quote Arnot; (‘it is the nearest house to the RegisteI Office on the south-east, except the row of houses on the east side of the theatre. The lower storey was vaulted, and the vaults still remain. On these a mean house has been superstructed, and the whole converted into a dwelling-house. The baptismal font, which was in danger of being destroyec was this year (1787) removed to the curious towel built at Dean Haugh, by Mr. Falter ROSS, Write to the Signet.” The ‘‘ lower part ” of the building was evidently the crypt, and the font referred to, neatly-sculptured basin with a beautiful Gothi canopy, is now among the many fragments built b: Sir Walter Scott into the walls of Abbotsford. Thi extinct chapel appears to have been a dependenc: of Holyrood abbey, from the numerous notice that appear in licences granted by the abbots o that house to the Corporations of the Canongate for founding and maintaining altars in the church and in one of these, dated 1554, by Robert Stewart abbot of Holyrood, with reference to St. Crispin’, altar therein, he states, ‘‘ it is our will yat ye Cor dinars dwelland within our regalitie. . . besyde our chapel1 of Sanct Ninian, out with Sanc Andrews Port besyde Edinburcht, be in brether heid and fellowschipe with ye said dekin anc masters of ye cordinar craft.” In 1775 one or two houses of St. James’s Squart were built on the very crest of Moultray’s Hill The first stone of the house at the south-eas corner of the square was laid on the day that news reached Edinburgh of the battle of Bunker’s Hill which was fought on the 17th of June in that year. “ The news being of coul‘se very interesting, wa: the subject of popular discussion for the day, and nothing but Bunker’s Hill was in everybody’s mouth. It so happened that the two buildeE founding this first tenement fell out between themselves, and before the ceremony was concluded, most indecorously fell to and fought out the quarrel on the spot, in presence of an immense assemblage of spectators, who forthwith conferred the name of Bunker’s Hill upon the place, in commemoration of the combat, which it retains to this day. The tenement founded under these curious circumstances was permitted to stand by itself for some years upon the eminence of Bunker’s Hill; and being remarkably tall and narrow, as well as a solitary Zana’, it got the popular appellation of ‘Hugo Arnot’ from the celebrated historian, who lived in the neighbourhood, and whose slim, skeleton-looking figure was well known to the public eye at the period.” So lately as 1804 the ground occupied by the lower end of Katharine Street, at the north-eastem side of Moultray’s Hill, was a green slope, where people were wont to assemble, to watch the crowds returning from the races on Leith sands. In this new tenement on Bunker’s Hill dwelt Margaret Watson of Muirhouse, widow of Robert’ Dundas, merchant, and mother of Sir David Dun- ’ das, the celebrated military tactician. “We used to go to her house on Bunker’s Hill,” says’ Lord Cockbum, when boys, on Sundays between the morning and the afternoon sermons, when we were cherished with Scottish broth and cakes, and many a joke from the old lady. Age had made her incapable of walking even across the room; so, clad in a plain silk gown, and a pure muslin cap, she sat half encircled by a high-backed blackleather chair, reading, with silver spectacles stuck on her thin nose, and interspersing her studies and her days with much laughter and not a little sarcasm. What a spirit! There was more fun and sense round that chair than in the theatre or the church.” In 1809 No. 7 St. James’s Square was the residence of Alexander Geddes, A.R.Y.A., a well-known Scottish artist. He was born at 7 St. Patrick Street, near the Cross-causeway, in 1783. In 1812 he removed to 55 York Place, and finally to London, where he died, in Berners Street, on the 5th of May, 1844. His etchings in folio were edited by David Laing, in 1875, but only IOO copies were printed. A flat on the west side of the square was long the residence of Charles Mackay, whose unrivalled impersonation of Eailie Nicol Jarvie was once the most cherished recollection of the old theatre-going public, and who died on the 2nd November, 1857. In 1787 Robert Bums lived for several months in No. z (a common stair now numbered as 30) whither he had removed from Baxter’s Close in the Lawnmarket, and from this place many 3f the letters printed in his correspondence are dated. In one or two he adds, “Direct to me xt Mr, FV. Cruikshank’s, St. James’s Square, New Town, Edinburgh.” This gentleman was one of ;he masters of the High School, with whom he passed many a happy hour, and to whose daughter ie inscribed the verses beginning- This square was not completed till 1790, “ Beauteous rosebud, young and gay, Blooming in thy early May,” &c. It was while here that he joined most in that irilliant circle in which the accomplished Duchess ’ ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Moultray’s Hill. - dedicated to him,”) but by whom founded or when, is quite ...

Vol. 2  p. 366 (Rel. 0.47)

I72 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. .but the3ittle .warlike episode connected with Inchkeith forms a part of it. In the rare view of Holyrood given at page 45 .of Vol. II., Inchkeith is shown in the distance, with its castle, a great square edifice, having a round tower at each corner. The English garrison here were in a position which afforded them many .advantages, and they committed many outrages on the shores of Fife and Lothian; and when it be- .came necessary to dislodge them, M. de Biron, a French officer, left Leith in a galley to reconnoitre to the island, and evident selection of the only landing-place, roused the suspicions of the garrison. Finding theirintentions discovered, they made direct for the rock, and found the English prepared to dispute every inch of it with them. Leaping ashore, with pike, sword, and arquebus, they attacked the English hand to hand, drove them into the higher parts of the island, where Cotton, their commander, and George Appleby, one of his officers, were killed, with several English gentlemen of note. The castle was captured, and @he island-the same galley in which, it is said, little Queen Mary afterwards went to France. The English garrison were no doubt ignorant of Biron’s object in sailing round the isle, as they did not fire upon him. Mary of Lorraine had often resorted to Leith since the arrival of her cour.trymen ; and now she took such an interest in the expedition to Inchkeith that she personally superintended the embarkation, on Corpus Christi day, the 2nd of June, 1549. Accompanied by a few Scottish troops, the French detachment, led by Chapelle de Biron, De Ferrieres, De Gourdes, and other distinguished .officers, quitted the harbour in small boats, and to .deceive the English as to their intentions sailed up and down the Firth ; but their frequent approaches the English driven pell-mell into a corner of the isle, where they had no alternative but to throw themselves into the sea or surrender. In this combat De Biron was wounded on the head by an arquebus, and had his helmet so beaten about his ears that he had to be carried off to the boats. Desbois, his standard-bearer, fell under the pike of Cotton, the English commander, and Gaspare di Strozzi, leader of the Italians, was slain. An account of the capture of this island was published in France, and it is alike amusing and remarkable for the bombast in which the French writer indulged. He records at length the harangues of the Queen Regent and the French leaders as the expedition quitted Leith, the length and tedium of the voyage, and the sufferings which the troops ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. .but the3ittle .warlike episode connected with Inchkeith forms a part of ...

Vol. 5  p. 172 (Rel. 0.47)

108 OLD -4ND NEW EDINBURGH. [Calton Hill. ~~~~ sea or land, with all its defects it makes a magnificent termination to the vista along Princes Street from the west. The base is a battlemented edifice, divided into small apartments and occupied as a restaurant Above its entrance is the crest of Nelson, with a sculpture representing the stern of the Son ’jGosep/l, and underneath an inscription, ~- of which the monument rises possesses an outline which, by a curious coincidence, presents a profile of Nelson, when viewed from Holyrood. The time-ball, which is in electric communication with the time-gun at the Castle, falls every day at one o’clock simultaneously with the discharge of THE CALTON BURYING-GROUND : HUME’S GRAVE. recording that the grateful citizens of Edinburgh ‘- have erected this monument, not to express their unavailing sorrow for his death, nor yet to celebrate the matchless glories of his life, but by his noble example to teach their sons to emulate what they admire, and like him, when duty requires it, to die for their country.” From this pentangular base rises, to the height of more than IOO feet, a circular tower, battlemented at the top, surmounted by the time-ball and a flagstaff, where a standard is always hoisted on the anniversary of Trafalgar, and used also to be run up on the 1st of August in memory of the battle of Abouku. Around the edifice are a garden and plots of shrubbery, from amid ,which, peeping grimly foith, are three Russian trophies-two cannon from Sebastopol and one from Bomarsund, placed r‘nere in 1857. The precipice from the edge the gun which is fired from Greenwich. A common joke of the High School boys is that the Duke of Wellington gets off his horse in front of the Register House 7uhen he hears the gun, lunches, and re-mounts his statuesque steed at two o’clock ! A little to the north of it, on a flat portion ot the hill, stand twelve magnificent Grecian Doric columns, the fragment of the projected national monument to the memory of all Scottish soldiers and sailors who fell by land and sex in the long war with France ; and, with a splendour of design corresponding to the grandeur of the object, it was meant to be a literal restoration of the Parthenon at Athens. The contributors were incorporated by Act of Parliament. The foundation stone was laid on the 27th August, 1822, the day on which George IV. visited Melville Castle. Under the Duke of Hamilton, ... OLD -4ND NEW EDINBURGH. [Calton Hill. ~~~~ sea or land, with all its defects it makes a ...

Vol. 3  p. 108 (Rel. 0.47)

50 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castlc. brother Sir James, with two burgesses of the City, were drawn backwards in carts to the market cross, where they were hanged, and their heads were placed upon the ruined castle walls. Within the latter were found twenty-two close carts for ammunition, and 2,400 cannon balls. The whole gamson were thrust into the dungeons of adjacent castles in the county; and four soldiers- Glasford, Stewart, Moffat, and Millar-“declared traitors ” for having assisted Kirkaldy “ in the demolishing and casting down of the bigginis, showting great and small peissis, without fear of God or remorse of conscience,“ had to do public penance at one of the doors of St. Giles’s for three days ‘‘ cleid in sack cleith.” * The Regent made his brother, George Douglas of Parkhead (one of the assassins of Rizzio), governor, and he it was who built the present half- . moon battery, and effected other repairs, so that a plan still preserved shows that by 1575 the fortress had in addition thereto eight distinct towep, facing the town and south-west, armed by forty pieces of cannon. exclusive of Mons Meg, arquebusses, and cut-throats. Over the new gate Morton placed, above the royal arms, those of his own family, a fact which was not forgotten when he lost his head some years after. In 1576, Alexander Innes of that ilk being summoned to Edinburgh concerning a lawsuit with a clansman, Innes of Pethknock, met the latter by chance near the market cross-then the chief promenade-and amid high words struck him dead with his dagger, and continued to lounge quietly near the body. He was made prisoner in the Castle, and condemned to‘lose his head; but procured a remission from the corrupt Regent by relinquishing one of his baronies, and gave an entertainment to all his friends. “If I had my foot once loose,” said he, vauntingly, ‘‘I would fain see if this Earl of Morton dare take possession of my land!” This, though a jest, was repeated to Morton, who retained the bond for the barony, but, according to the history of the Innes family, had the head of Innes instantly struck off within the fortress. So odious became the administration of Morton that, in 1578, James VI., though only twelve years of age, was prevailed upon by Argyle and Athole to summon the peers, assume the government, and dismiss Morton, an announcement made by heralds at the cross on the 12th of March, under three salutes from the new half-moon ; but it was not until many scuffles with the people, culminating in Keith’s “Register”; “Maitknd Club nIiiellury.” a deadly brawl which roused the whole city in arms and brought the craftsmen forth with morions, plate sleeves, and steel jacks, and when the entire High Street bristled with pikes and Jedwood axes, that Parkhead, when summoned, gave up the fortress to the Earl of Mar, to whom the Ezrl of Morton delivered the regalia and crown jewels, conformably to an ancient inventory, receiving in return a pardon for all his misdemeanours-a document that failed to save him, when, in 1580, he was condemned and found guilty of that crime for which he had put so many others to death-the murder of Darnley-and had his head struck off by the “Maiden,” an instrument said to be of his own adop tion, dying unpitied amid the execratidns of assembled thousands. Calderwood relates that as he was being conducted captive to the Castle, a woman, whose husband he had put to death, cursed him loudly on her bare knees at the Butter Tron. His head was placed on a port of the city. From this period till the time of Charles I. little concerning the Castle occurs in the Scottish annals, save the almost daily committal of State prisoners to its dungeons, some of which are appalling places, hewn out of the living rock, and were then destitute nearly of all light. From one of these, Mowbray of Barnbougle, incarcerated in 1602 for slaying a servant of James VI. in the palace of Dunfermline, in attempting to escape, fell headlong through the air, and was dashed on the stony pathway that led to the Royal Mews 300 feet below. His body was quartered, and placed on the Cross, Rether Bow, Potter Row, and West Ports. In May, 1633, Charles I. visited the capital of’ his native country, entering it on the 16th by the West Port, amid a splendour of many kinds ; and on the 17th, under a salute of fifty-two guns, he proceeded to the Castle attended by sixteen. coaches and the Horse Guards. He remained in the royal lodgings one night, and then returned to Holyrood. On the 17th of June he was again in the Castle, when the venerable Earl of Mar gave a magnificent banquet in the great hall, where many of the first nobles in Scotland and England were, as Spalding states, seated on each side of Charles. To that hall he was conducted next morning, and placed on a throne under avelvet canopy, by the Duke of Lennox, Lord High Chamberlain of Scotland. The peers of the realm then entered in procession wearing their crimson velvet robes, each belted with his sword, and with his coronet borne before him. The Chancellor, Viscount Dupplin, addressed him in the name of the Parliament. Charles was then conducted to the gate, from whence began a procession to Holyrood ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castlc. brother Sir James, with two burgesses of the City, were drawn ...

Vol. 1  p. 50 (Rel. 0.47)

the permanent and undisputed capital of Scotland. Sorrow and indignation spread over all the realm when the fate of James was heard, and no place seemed to afford such security to the royal person as the impregnable Castle of Edinburgh j thus Queen Jane, ignorant of the ramifications of that .conspiracy by which her princely husband was ,slain (actually in her arms), instantly joined her .son James II., who since his birth had dwelt there. It was then in the hands of William Baron .of Crichton-a powerful, subtle, and ambitious statesman, who was Master of the Household. with every solemnity, on the 25th of March, 1437. The queen-mother was named his guardian, with an allowance of 4,000 merks yearly, and Archibald the great Earl of Uouglas and Angus (Duke of Touraine) was appointed lieutenant-general of the kingdom. During the two subsequent years the little king resided entirely in the Castle under the custody of Crichton, now Lord Chancellor, greatly to the displeasure of the queen and her party, who found him thus placed completely beyond their control or influence. In short, it was no longer the queen-mother, RUINS OF THE WELL-HOUSE TOWER. (~m a D7awifirb W ~ Z Z ~ ~ X . paton, R.s.A.) Within forty days nearly all concerned in the imurder of the late king were brought to Edinburgh, where the ignoble were at once consigned to the hangman; but for the Earl of Athol and bother titled leaders were devised tortures worthy .alone of Chinese or Kaffir ingenuity. Crowned by a red-hot diadem as " King of Traitors," at the Market Cross, after undergoing three days of un- .exampled agonies in sight of the people and the Papal Nuncio, afterwards Pius II., the body of the earl was dragged nude through the streets ; it was then beheaded and quartered. On the assembly of the Lords of Parliament, -their first care was the coronation of James II., -who was conducted in procession from the Castle $0 the church of Holyrood, where he was crowned, but the crafty Crichton, who had uncontrolled custody of the little sovereign, and who thus was enabled to seize the revenues, and surround him by a host of parasites, who permitted neither her, nor the Regent, Sir Alexander Livingstone of Callender, to have any share in the government A bitter feud was the consequence, and Scotland again was rent into two hostile factions, a state of matters of which the English could not, as usual, make profit, as they were embroiled among themselves. The queen remained with the regent at Stirling, while her son was literally a prisoner at Edinburgh ; but, womanlike, the mother formed a plan of her own to outwit the enemy. Visiting the Castle, she professed a great regard for the Chancellor, and a desire to be with her son, ... permanent and undisputed capital of Scotland. Sorrow and indignation spread over all the realm when the fate ...

Vol. 1  p. 29 (Rel. 0.47)

360 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Lauristw From each side of this central mass there are three floors of corridors, affording access to the wards of the Surgical Hospital, and to the front view appear as so many ranges of triple-windows surmounted by a balustrade of stone. Each of these passages is twelve feet wide, and run from end to end of the buildings ; and there branch out towards Lauriston four blocks of wards, 128 feet long by 33 wide. Each comes to within some 35 feet of the - It consists of four pavilions lying east and west, parallel to each other, at distances of about IOO feet apart, with their eight towers facing the Meadows, repeating the architectural features of the Lauriston front at their northern ends, all connected by a corridor, the flat roof of which becomes available as an open gallery. Each of all these separate blocks or pavilions, besides their attics and basements, have three floors, GEORGE WATSON’S HOSPITAL. (Reduced Facsi#tde of R. Scott’r Enffravinr of fhe Drawing i.U And~ew Scott Maron, wed 13, Pudlisfud in I8rg.) pavement, presenting a front of eight Holyrood towers, with four crowstepped gables between. The masonryis hammer-dressed stone and dressed ashlar. On the south side of the main corridors are two blocks that project to the south, and between them are two class-rooms, also entering from these corridors, with a theatre for operations in rear of the central block, while immediately to the south of all this are the old buildings of Watson’s Hospital, remodelled for administrative purposes. The Surgical Hospital forms a pile of building with a frontage of 480 feet, combining a picturesque group of round towers, and corbelled tourelles, oyer all of which rises the lofty spire. The Medical Hospital occupies that portion of the ground nearest to the northern walk of the Meadows, and most simple are its arrangements. each of which constitutes a ward, or separate and independent hospital, capable, if necessary, of complete isolation. The floors are connected by a spacious staircase, and each opens out from the wide corridor, at right angles to its upper end ; and two hydraulic hoists run from the basement to the top of the block-one for sending up meals from the general kitchen, and the other large enough to hold a bed for the conveyance, up or down, of a helpless patient. There are also shoots for soiled linen and sweepings and ashes. In short, everything is considered, and no comfort seems to have been forgotten, even to a complete set of fireextinguishing apparatus. For the nurse in charge of each department there are comfortable apartments, one of which, by a glazed opening, commands a view of the ward. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Lauristw From each side of this central mass there are three floors of corridors, ...

Vol. 4  p. 360 (Rel. 0.46)

256 OLD AND NE\V EDINBURGH. [High Street. to be the same tenement with which he endowed an altar in the chapel of the Holyrood, at the south or lower end of St. Giles’s churchyard. From the trial in 15 r4, the year after Flodden, of “ane quit for slauchter in his awin defence,” we learn that Walter Chepman was Dean of Guild for the City. ‘‘The 24th day of October, anno suprascript, Alexander Livingstone indytit and accusit for the art and pairt of the creuall slauchter of umquhile Lady Lovat-niece of the first Duke of Argyllwas born in I 7 I 0, and, under great domestic pressure, became the wife of that cunning and politic. old lord, who was thirty years her senior, and by no means famous for his tenderness to her predecessor, Janet Grant of that ilk. She passed years. of seclusion at Castle Downey, where, while treated with outward decorum, she was secretly treated. with a barbarity that might have broken another woman’s heart. Confined to one apartment, she, HOUSE OF THE ABBOTS OF MELROSE, STRICHEN’S CLOSE. (From az Engraving in the Roxburgh Edition of Sir Walfet Scoft’s “Monnstrv.“! Jak, upoun the Eurrowmuir of Edinburgh in this month of September by-past. Thai beand reniovit furth of court, and again in enterit, they fand and deliverit the said Alexander quit and innocent of ye said slauchter, because tha; clearlie knew it was in his pure defence. John Livingstoune petiit instrunienta. Testibus Patricio Barroun et Johanne Irland, Ballivis, Magistro Jacobo Wischeart de Pitgarro, cleric0 Justiciario S.D.N. Regis, Waltero Chepman Decano Gild, Johanne Adamson juniore, Jacobo Barroun, Patricio Flemyng, et muZtis diis.” This, says Amot, is the earliest trial to be found in the records of the city of Edinburgh. was seldom permitted to leave it, even for meals, and was supplied for these with coarse scraps from his lordship’s table. They had one son, Archibald Fraser, afterwards a merchant in London, and before his birth the old lord swore that if she brought forth a girl he would roast it to death on the back of the fire ; and he often threat-. ened her, that if aught befel the two boys of his first marriage in his absence, he would shoot her through the head. “A lady, the intimate friend of her youth,” says Sir Walter Scott, “was instructed to. visit Lady Lovat, as if by accident, to ascertain the truth of those rumours concerning her husband’s conduct which had reached the ears of her family- . ... OLD AND NE\V EDINBURGH. [High Street. to be the same tenement with which he endowed an altar in the chapel of ...

Vol. 2  p. 256 (Rel. 0.46)

Xigh Street.] EXCISE OFFICE. 217 not only to inspire his enthusiasm, but improve his seamanship ; and there was something prophetic in the poem, as the frigate Azlroru, in which he served, perished at sea in 1769. Eastward of Knox’s manse is an old timberfronted land, bearing the royal arms of Scotland on its first floor, and entered by a stone turnpike, the door of which has the legend Beus Benedictat, and long pointed out as the excise office of early times. “ The situation,” says Wilson, “ was peculiarly convenient for guarding the principal gate of das’s splendid mansion in St. Andrew’s Square, now occupied by the Royal Bank. This may be considered its culminating point It descended thereafter to Bellevue House, in Drummond Place, built by General Scott, the father-in-law of Mr. Canning, which house was demolished in 1846 in completing the tunnel of the Edinburgh and Leith Railway; and now we believe the exciseman no longer possesses a local habitation ’ within the Scottish capital.” The interesting locality of the Nether Bow takes the city, and the direct avenue (Leith Wynd) to the neighbouring seaport. . . . . . Since George 11.’~ reign the excise office had as many rapid vicissitudes as might mark the ?areer of a profligate spendthrift. In its earlier days, when a floor of the old land in the Nether Bow sufficed for its accommodation, it was regarded as foremost among the detested fruits of the Union. From thence it removed to more commodious chambers in the Cowgate, since demolished to make way for the southern piers of George IV. bridge. Its next resting place was the large tenement on the south side of Chessel’s Court in the Canongate, the scene of the notorious Deacon Brodie’s last robbery. From thence it was removed to Sir Lawrence Dun- 28 its name from the city gate, known as the Nether Bow Port, in contradistinction to the Upper Bow Port, which stood near the west end of the Eigh Street. This barrier united the city wall from St. Mary’s Wynd on the south to the steep street known as Leith Wynd on the north, at a time when, perhaps, only open fields lay eastward of the gate, stretching from the township to the abbey of Holyrood. The last gate was built in the time of Tames VI. ; what was the character of its predecessor we have no means of ascertaining; but to repair it, in 1538, as the city cash had run low, the magistrates were compelled to mortgage its northern vault for IOO rnerks Scots; and this was the gate which the English, under Lord Hertford, blew open ... Street.] EXCISE OFFICE. 217 not only to inspire his enthusiasm, but improve his seamanship ; and there was ...

Vol. 2  p. 217 (Rel. 0.46)

C0NTENTS. CHAPTER I. THE CANONGATE. @AGE I& Origin-Songs concerning it-Reaords-Market Cross-St. John's and the G i h Crosses-Early History-The Town of Her- Canongate Paved-The Governing Body-Raising the Devil-Purchase of the Earl of Roxbwgh's "Superiority"-The Foreign Settlement-George Heriot the Elder-Huntly's HouseSu Walter Scott's Story of a Fire--The Mo- Land-How of Oliphant of Newland, Lord David Hay, and Earl of Angus-Jack's Land-Shoemaker's Lands-Marquis of Huntly's House-Nisbet of Duleton'd Mansion-Golfers' Land-John and Nicol Paterson-The Porch and Gatehouse of the Abbey-Lucky Spellcc . . . . . . I CHAPTER 11. THE CANONGATE (continwd). Execution of the Marquis of Montrose-The First Dromedary in Scotland-The streets Cleansed-Raxbugh House--London Stages of r71a and 175+-Religious Intolerance-Declension of the Burgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 CHAPTEK 111. THE CANONGATE (con#i+vwd). Closes and AlleF on the North Side-Fiesh-market and Coull's Cloxs-Canongate High School-&e's Close--Riillach's Lodging-New Street and its Residents-Hall of the Shoemakers-Sir Thos Ddyell-The Canongate Workhouse-Panmure HousbHannah Robertson-The White Horse Hostel-% Water Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 CHAPTER IV. THE CANONGATE (continued). Closes and Alleys on the South Side-Chessel's Court-The Canongate Theatre-Riots Therein-"Douglas" Performed-Mr. Diggea and Mra. Bellamy-St. John's Close-St. John's Street and iks Residents-The Haaunennan's Clo~-Horse Wynd, Abbey-House of Lord Napier 22 CHAPTER V. THE CANONGATE (roniinued). Separate or Detached Edifices therein-Sir Walter Scott in the Canongate--The Parish C%urch-How it came to be built-Its Official Position- Its Burying Ground-The Grave of Fergusson-Monument to Soldiers interred the-Ecceotric Henry PrentiaThe Tolbth-Testimony as to its Age-Its latu uses-Magdakne Asylum-Linen Hall-Many House-Its Hstorical Associari ons-The WiotooXo-Whiteford Howe-The Dark Story of Queuriberry House . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 7 CHAPTER VI. THE CANONGATE (coduded). mthiin H u t - M PalmerstowSt. Thomas's Hospita-The Tennis Court and its Theawe4&wen Mq's --The Houxr of Croftan- Righandclock-mill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 CHAPTER ' VII. HOLYROOD ABBEY. Foundation of the Ahbey-Text of King David's Charter-Original Extent of the Abbey Char&-The sc-alled Miracdau b - T h e Pawnages of the Canons-Its Tbirtyanc Abbots-Its Relics and Revenues . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 ... I. THE CANONGATE. @AGE I& Origin-Songs concerning it-Reaords-Market Cross-St. John's ...

Vol. 4  p. 385 (Rel. 0.44)

104 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cahoa Hill. on their return from the Army of Occupation in France, under Colonel Wallace. One of the last feasts of St. Crispin was held in the Calton Convening Rooms, in 1820, when six hundred of the ancient Corporation of Cordiners, bearing St. Crispin with regal pomp, marched from Holyrood. “On reaching the Cross,”says the Week0 Journal for that year, “ it was found impossible to proceed farther, from the mass of people collected ; the procession therefore filed off into the Royal Exchange, until a guard of the 13th Foot arrived from the Castle ; then it proceeded along the mound to the New Town.” It is added that fortyfour years had elapsed since the last procession of the kind. The same paper, in 1828, records :hat a mighty ing of the Regent Bridge, the foundation stone of which was laid in 1815, forming a magnificent entrance to the New Town from the east. The arch is fifty feet wide, and about the same in height, having on the top of the side ledges, arches, and ornamental pillars, connected with the houses in Waterloo Place. The whole was finished in 1819, and formally opened on the visit of Prince Leopold, afterwards King of Belgium j but the bridge must have been open for traffic two years before, as it was crossed by the 88th Connaught Rangers, in 1817, 15,000 men, and about the date above mentioned, Earl Grey entered the city amid a vast concourse of admirers. He was presented with the freedom of the city in a gold box, and was afterwards entertained at a public banquet, in a pavilion erected for the occasion, 113 feet long by IDI broad. in the eastern compartment of the High School on the south side of the Calton Hill. Archibald, Earl of Rosebery, K.T., in absence of the Duke of Hamilton, occupied the chair. On the north-west shoulder of the hill is the old observatory, a rough, round-buttressed tower, three storeys in height. The scheme for the erection of a building of this kind was first projected in 1736, but the local commotions occasioned by the Porteous mob caused it to be relinquished mass of rock, fully fifty tons in weight, fell from under Nelson’s monument with a great crash from a height of twentyfive feet, and carrying all before it, rolled on the roadway below. On the 15th September, 1834, there occurred the only local event of interest since the visit of George 1V.-the Grey banquet. A great portion of the citizens had signalised themselves in their zeal for the Reform Bill, the passing of which, in August, 1832, they celebrated by a grand procession of the trades, amounting to more than NELSON’S MONUMENT, CALTON HILL, FROM PRINCES STREET. (Fwm a Dmwiwby A. Kaswytfi, pnbliskd in 18a6.) ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cahoa Hill. on their return from the Army of Occupation in France, under Colonel ...

Vol. 3  p. 104 (Rel. 0.43)

146 OLD AND NET into the royal presence, the king became alarmed, and retired into the Tolbooth, amid shouts of ‘‘ &ly !” .“ Save yourself !” “Armour ! Armour !” When the deputation returned to the portion of St. Giles’s absurdly named the little kirk, they found another multitude listening to the harangue of a clergyman named Michael Cranston, on the text of “ Hamanand Mordecai.” The auditors, on hearing that the king had retired without any explanation, now rush‘ed forth, and with shouts of “Bring out the wicksd Haman !” endeavoured to batter down the doors of the Tolbooth,’ from which James was glad to make his escape to Holyrood, swearing he would uproot Edinburgh, and salt its site ! This disturbance, which Tytler details in his History, was one which had no definite or decided purpose-one of the few in Scottish annals where The species of spire or lantern formed by groined ribs of stone, which forms the most remarkable feature in the venerable church, seems to be. pecumonarch to show his gratitude by attention to the cause of religion, and his care of the new Subjects committed to his care. The king now rose, and addressed the people from whom he was about to part in a very warm and affectionate strain. He bade them a long adieu with much tenderness, promised to keep them and their best interests in fond memory during his absence, “and often to visit them and communicate to them marks of his bounty when in foreign parts, as ample as any which he had been used to bestow when present with’ them. A mixture of approbation and weeping,” says Scott in his History, “followed this speech; and the good-natured king wept plentifully himself at taking leave of his native subjects.” The north transept of the church long bore the queer name of Haddo’s Hole, because a famous cavalier, Sir John Gordon of Haddo-who defended his castle of Kelly against the Covenanters, and loyally served King Charles 1.-was imprisoned there for some time before his execution at the adjacent cross in 1644. high alm) was ordered to be cast-into cannon for the town walls, instead of which they were sold for Azzo. Maitland further records that two of the remaining bells were re-cast at Campvere in 1621 ; one of these was again recast at London in 1846. ’ In 1585 the Town Council purchased the clock belonging to the abbey church of Lindores in Fifeshire, and placed it in the tower of St. Giles’s, “ previous to which time,” says Wilson, “ the citizens probably regulated time chiefly by the bells for matins and vespers, and the other daily services of the Roman Catholic Church.” In I 68 I we first find mention of the musical bells in the spire. Fountainhall records, with reference to the legacy left to the city by Thomas Moodie, the Council propose “to buy with it a peal of bells, to hang in St. Giles’s steeple, to ring musically, and to build a Tolbooth above the West Port of Edinburgh, and put Thomas Moodie’s nanie and arms thereon.” When the precincts of St. Giles’s church were secularised, the edifice became degraded, about . - ... OLD AND NET into the royal presence, the king became alarmed, and retired into the Tolbooth, amid shouts ...

Vol. 1  p. 146 (Rel. 0.42)

Ldth.1 THE LEITH RACE WEEK. 269 afterwards James VII., during the time he was Royal Commissioner at Holyrood. ‘‘ They have been rehearsed in verse by Robert Ferguson,” says Robertson in 1851, ‘‘ and still form a topic of converse with the elder part of our citizens, as one of the prominent features of the glorious days of old.” The earliest records of them have all been lost, he adds. They took place on the east side of the harbour, where now the great new docks are formed. The Leith race week was a species of carnival to the citizens of Edinburgh, and in many instances caused a partial suspension of must have seen it many times, ‘‘ that long before the procession could reach Leith the functionaries had disappeared, and nothing was visible amid the moving myriads but the purse on the top of the pole.” The scene at Leith races, as described by those who have been present, was of a very striking description. Vast lines of tents and booths, covered with canvas or blankets, stretched along the level shore ; recruiting-sergeants with their drummers beating, sailors ashore for a holiday, mechanics accompanied by their wives or sweethearts, servant girls, and most motley groups, were constantly pass- THE YARTELLO TOWER, FROM LEITH PIER. work and business. They were under the direct patronage of the magistrates of the city, and it was usual for one of the town officers, in his livery, to walk in procession every morning from the Council Chambers to Leith, bearing aloft on a pole or halberd, profusely decorated with ribbons and streamers, the ‘‘ City Purse,” accompanied by a file of the City Guard, with their bayonets fixed and in full uniform, accompanied by a drummer, beating that peculiar cadence on his drum which is believed to have been the old U Scottish March.” This procession gathered in strength and interest as it moved along Leith Walk, as hundreds were on the outlook for the appearance of this accredited civic body, and who preferred “gaun doon wi‘ the Purse,” as the phrase was, to any other mode of proceeding thither. Such a dense mass of boys and girls finally surrounded the town officers, the ‘drummer, and the old veterans,” wrote one wha ing in and out of the drinking places ; the whole varied by shows, roley-poleys, hobby-horses, wheelsof- fortune, and many of those strange characters which were once familiar in the streets of Edmburgh, and of whom, “Jamie, the Showman,” A veteran of the Glengarry Fencibles, a native of the Canongate, who figures in 66Hone’s Year Book,’? was perhaps the last. Saturday, which was the last day of the races, was the most joyous and outrageous of this seashore carnival. On that day was the “subscription“ for the horses beaten during the week, and these unfortunate nags contended for the negative honour of not being the worst on the course. Then, when night closed in, there was invariably a general brawl, a promiscuous free fight being maintained by the returning crowds along the entire length of Leith Walk. A few quotations from entries will serve to show that, in the progression of all things, racing ... THE LEITH RACE WEEK. 269 afterwards James VII., during the time he was Royal Commissioner at Holyrood. ...

Vol. 6  p. 269 (Rel. 0.41)

Greyfriars Church.] DR ERSKINE. 379 I manhood was a sitter in the Old Greyfriars, and his parents, Mr. and Mrs. Scott,” says an old tutor of Sir Walter, writing to Lockhart, “ every Sabbath, when well and at home, attended with their fine young family of children and their domestic servants- a sight so amicable and exemplary as often to excite in my breast a glow of heart-felt satisfaction.” In “ Guy Mannering,” Scott introduces this old church-now, with St. Giles’s, the most interesting place of worship in the city-and its two most distinguished incumbents. When Colonel Mannering came to Edinburgh (where, as we have already said, Romance and History march curiously side from all quarters for the first service, a mass of . blackened ruins. It has since been repaired at considerable expense, adorned with several beautiful memorial windows, the triplet one in the south aisle being to the Scottish historian, George Buchanan. Among the ancient tombs within the church were those of Sir William Oliphant, King‘s Advocate, who died in 1628 ; and of Sir David Falconer, of Newton, Lord President of the Court of Session, who spent the last day of his life seated on the bench in court. The antiquity of our Scottish churchyards, and the care taken of them, greatly impressed Dr. Southey strangely contrasted with a black wig, without a ‘ grain of powder ; a narrow chest and stooping posture; hands which, placed like props on each side of the pulpit, seemed necessary rather to support the person than to assist the gesticulation of the preacher ; a gown (not even that of Geneva), a tumbled band, and a gesture which seemed scarcely voluntary, were the first circumstances which struck a stranger.” Dr. Erskine, previously minister of the New Greyfriars, was the author of voluminous theological works, which are known, perhaps, in Scotland only. After ministering at the Greyfriars for fortyfive years, he died in January, 1803, and was buried in the churchyard Principal Robertson pre-deceased him. He died in June, 1793, in the seventy-first year of his age, and was interred in the same burying-ground. The Old Greyfriars was suddenly destroyed on the morning of Sunday, 19th January, 1845, by a fire, and presented to the startled people, assembling greatest, grandest, and most renowned, who have lived during a period of three hundred years. In the year 1562 the Town Council made an application to Queen Mary to grant them the site and yards of the Greyfriars Monastery, to form a a new burial-place, as ‘‘ being somewhat distant from the town.” Mary, in reply, granted their request at once, and appointed the Greyfriars yard, or garden, to be devoted in future to the use specified, and as St Giles’s Churchyard soon after began to be abandoned, no doubt interments here would proceed rapidly ; all the more so that the other burial-places of the city had become desecrated. ‘‘ Before the Reformation,” says Wilson, “there were the Blackfriars Kirkyard, where the Surgical Hospital or old High School now stands ; the Kirk-of-Field-now occupied by the college, Trinity College, Holyrood Abbey, St. Roque’s ’ and St. Leonard’s Kirkyards. In all these places human bones are still found on digging to any depth.” ... Church.] DR ERSKINE. 379 I manhood was a sitter in the Old Greyfriars, and his parents, Mr. and Mrs. ...

Vol. 4  p. 379 (Rel. 0.41)

THE Castle Hill,” says Dr. Chambers, “ is partly ’ an esplanade, serving as a parade ground for the garrison, and partly a street, the upper portion of that vertebral line which, under the names of Lawnbeen characterised as “ hovels that are a disgrace to Europe.” In lists concerning the Castle of Edinburgh, the first governor appears to have been Thomas de Cancia in I 147 ; the first constable, David Kincaid of Coates House, in 1542 ; and the first State prisoner warded therein Thomas of. Colville in 12 10, for conspiring against William the Lion. We may fittingly take leave of the grand old ‘( Archzologia Scotica,” which contains an “ Elegie on the great and famous Blew Stone which lay on the Castle Hill, and was interred there.” On this relic, probably a boulder, a string of verses form , Castle in the fine lines of Burns’s “Address to Edinburgh ” :- ~ “ There, watching high the least alarms, Thy rough, rude fortress gleams afar; Like some bold ver’ran, grey in arms, And marked with many a seamy scar ; The pond’rous wall and massy bar, Grim rising o’er the rugged rock, Have oft withstood assailing war, And oft repelled th’ invader’s shock.” market, High Street, and Canongate, extends to I the doggerel elegy :- Holyrood Palace f but it is with the Esplanade and banks we have chiefly to deal at present. Those who now see the Esplanade, a peaceful open space, 5 10 feet in length by 300 in breadth,with the squads of Highland soldiers at drill, or the green bank that slopes away to the north, covered with beautiful timber, swarming in summer with little ones in care of their nurses, can scarcely realise that thereon stood the ancient Spur, before which so many men have perished RUNIC CROSS, CASTLE BANK. sword in hand, and that it was the arena of so many revolting executions by the axe and stake, for treason, hereay, and sorcery. It lay in a rough state till 1753, when the earth taken from the foundations of the Royal Exchange \vas spread over it, and the broad flight of forty steps which gave access to the drawbridge was buried. The present ravelin before the half-moon was built in 1723 ; but alterations in the level must have taken place prior to that, to judge from “Our old Blew Stone, that’s His marrow may not be; Large, twenty feet in length His bulk none e’er did Doiir and dief, and run with When he preserved men. Behind his back a batterie Contrived with packs of Let’s now think on, since We ’re in the Castle’s dead and gone, he was, ken ; grief, was, woo, he is gone, view.“ The woolpacks evidently refer to the siege of 1689. The Esplanade was impraved in 1816 by a parnpet and railing on the north. and a fea years after by a low mall on the south, strengthened by alternate towers and turrets. A bronze statue of the Duke of York and Albany, K.G., holding his marshal’s b%ton, was erected on the north side in 1839, and a little lower down are two Celtic memorial crosses of remarkable beauty. The larger and more ornate of them was erected in 1862, by the officers and soldiers of the 78th Ross-shire Highlanders, to the memory of their comrades who fell during the revolt in India in 1857-8 j and the ... Castle Hill,” says Dr. Chambers, “ is partly ’ an esplanade, serving as a parade ground for ...

Vol. 1  p. 79 (Rel. 0.38)

Leith.] HOME-COMING OF MONS MEG. 209 by the foot o the Calton Hill towards the Palace of Holyrood. As a souvenir of this event, on the first anniversary of it a massive plate was inserted on the Shore, in the exact spot on which the king first placed his foot, and there it remains to this day, with a suitable inscription commemorative of the event. In 1829, Mons Meg, which, among other ord nance deemed unserviceable, had been transmitted by the ignorance of an officer to London, and retained there in the Tower, was, by the patriotic efforts of Sir Walter Scott, sent home to Scotland. This famous old cannon, deemed a kind of Palladium by the Scots, after an absence of seventy-five years, was landed from the Happy Janet, and after lying for a time in the Naval Yard, till arrangements were made, the gun was conveyed to the Castle by a team of ten horses decked with laurels, preceded by two led horses, mounted by boys clad in tartans with broadswords. The escort was formed by a 123 grooms and esquires; Sir Patrick Walker, as Usher of the White Rod; a long alternation of cavalry and infantry, city dignitaries, and Highlanders, followed. At the end of the vista, preceded by ten royal footmen, two and two, sixteen yeomen of the Scottish Guard, escorted by the Royal Archers, came the king, followed by the head-quarter staff, three clans of Highlanders, two squadrons of Lothian yeomanry, three of the 3rd Dragoon Guards, Scots Greys, and the Grenadiers of the 77th regiment; and after some delay in going through the ceremony of receiving the city keys-which no monarch had touched since the days of Charles I.-the magnificent train moved through the living masses Lochend to the latter on the east, tA-e middle of Leith Walk on the south, and Wardie Bum on the west. Adam White was the first Provost of Leith after the passing of the Burgh Reform Bill in 1833; and it is now governed by a chief magistrate, four bailies, ten councillors, a treasurer, town clerk, and two joint assessors. Powers have since then been conferred upon the Provost of Leith as admiral, and the bailies as admirals-depute. There are in the town four principal corporations - the Shipmasters, the Traffickers, the Malt-men, and the Trades. The Traffickers, or Merchant Company, have lost their charter, and are merely a benefit society, without the power of compelling entries ; and the Ship masters, ordinarily called the Trinity House, vi11 be noticed in connection with that institution. The Trades Corporation is multifarious, and independently of it there is a body called “ The Convenery,” consisting of members delegated from troop of the 3rd Dragoon Guards, and detachments of the Koyal Artillery and Highlanders. In the evening the Celtic Society, all kilted, IOO strong, dined together in honour of the event, Sir Walter Scott in the chair; and on this occasion the old saying was not forgotten, that Scotland would never be Scotland till Mons Meg cam hame.” The gun was then on the same ancient carriage on which it had been taken away. It was not until 1827 that the precise limits of Leith as a town were defined, and a territory given to it which, if filled, would almost enable it to vie with the metropolis in extent, More extensive boundaries were afterwards assigned, and these are the Firth of Forth on the north, a line from SIGNAL TOWER, LEITH PIER, 1775. (ABw Ckrk ofEUin.) ... HOME-COMING OF MONS MEG. 209 by the foot o the Calton Hill towards the Palace of Holyrood. As a souvenir ...

Vol. 6  p. 209 (Rel. 0.37)

Leith Wynd.] TRINITY COLLEGE. 303 near its site stands one of the fine and spacious school houses erected for the School Board. At the foot of Leith Wynd, on the west side, there was founded on the 5th of March, 1462, by royal charter, the collegiate church of the Holy Trinity, by Mary, Queen of Scotland, daughter of Arnold Duke of Gueldres, grand-daughter of John Duke of Burgundy, and widow of James II., slain about two years before by the bursting of a cannon at Roxburgh. Her great firniness on that disastrous occasion, and during the few remaining years of her own life, proves her to have been a princess of no ordinary strength of mind. She took an active part in goyerning the stormy kingdom of her son, and died in 1463. Her early death may account for the nave never being built, though it was not unusual for devout persons in that age of church buliding, to erect as much as they could finish, and leave to the devotion of posterity the completion of the rest. Pitscottie tells us that she OLD COLLEGIATE SEALS, his office shall be adjudged vacant, and the same shall, by the Provost and Chapter, with consent of the Ordinary, be conferred upon another. If any of the said prebendaries shall keep a $ye-maker, and shall not dismiss her, after being therein admonished thereto by the Provost, his prebend shall be adjudged vacant, and conferred on another, by consent of the Ordinary as aforesaid. “ The Provost of the said college, whenever the office of provostry shall become vacant, shall by us and our successors, Kings of Scotland, be presented to the Ordinary; and the vicars belonging to the out-churches aforesaid shall be presented by the Provost and Chapter of the said college to the Ordinary, fromwhomtheyshall receive canonical institution; and no prebendary shall be instituted unless he can read and sing plainly, count and discount, and that the boys may be found docile in the premises. And we further appoint and ordain, that whenever any of the said ‘RINITY COLLEGE CHURCH. prebendwies shall “was buried in the Trinitie College, quhilk she built hirself.” Her grave was violated at the Reformation. The church was dedicated “to the Holy Trinity, to the ever blessed and glorious Virgin Mary, to 3t. Ninian the Confessor, and to all the saints and elect people of God.” The foundation was for a provost, eight prebendaries, and two clerks, and with much minuteness several ecclesiastical benefices and portions of land were assigned for the support of the several offices ; and in the charter there are some provisions of a peculiar character, in Scotland at least, and curiously illustrative of the age and its manners :- “Aud we appoint that none of the said preben- ,daries or clerks absent themselves from their offices without the leave of the Provost, to whom it shall not be lawful to allow any of them above the space of fifteen days at a time, unless it be on extraordiaary occasions, and then not without consent of the chapter ; and whosoever of the said prebendaries or clerks shall act contrary to this ordinance, iead mass,‘ he shall, after the same, in his sacerdotal habits, repair to the tomb of the foundress with hyssop, and there read the prayer Dep-ofmdis, together with that of the faithful, and exhortation to excite the people to devotion.’’ . Thechoir of this church from the apse to the west enclosure of the rood tower was go feet long, and 70 feet from transept to transept window ; the north aisle was 12 feet broad, and the south g feet. It is a tradition in masonry that the north aisles of all Catholic churches were wider than the south, to commemorate the alleged circumstance of the Saviour‘s head, on the cross, falling on his right shoulder. In digging the foundation of the Scott monument, an old quarry 40 feet deep was discovered, and from it the stones from which the church was built were taken. With the exception of Holyrood, it was the finest example of decorated English Gothic architecture in the city, with many of the peculiarities of the age to which it belonged. Various armorial bearings adorned different parts ... Wynd.] TRINITY COLLEGE. 303 near its site stands one of the fine and spacious school houses erected for the ...

Vol. 2  p. 303 (Rel. 0.36)

many other lands, included those of “Lochflatt, Pleasance, Se Leonards, Hillhousefield, Bonnytoun, and Pilrig,” &c. This ancient barony and the surrounding lands comprehended within its jurisdiction were granted by James VI., in 1568, to Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney, in whose time the village tolbooth would seem to have been erected; it remained intact till 1829, and stood at the east of the present Barony ‘Street, a quaint edifice, with crowstepped gables and dormer windows. Over its north door, to which a flight of thirteen steps gave access, was the date 1582. It was flanked on one side by a venerable set of stocks, a symbol of justice rare in Scotland, where the ironjougs were always used. The bishop surrendered these lands to the Crown in 1587, in favour of Sir Lewis Bellenden of and -his successors had the power of appointing bailies and holding courts within the limits of the barony. Sir Lewis, a noted trafficker with yizards, died on the 3rd of November, 1606, and was succeeded by his son Sir William Bellenden, as Baron of Broughton, which in those days was notorious as the haunt of reputed witches and war!ocks, who were frequently incarcerated in its old tolbooth. An execution of some of these wretched creatures is thus recorded in the minutes of the Privy Council : ‘‘ 1608, December I. The Earl of Mar declared to the Council that some women were taken in Broughton as witches, and being put to an assize and cmvicted, albeit they persevered in their denial to the end, yet they were burned quick (alive) after such a cruel manner that some of them died in despair, renouiicing and blaspheming (God) ; Broughton was the scene of some encounters between the Queen’smen and King’s-men in the time of the Regent Morton. The latter were in the habit of defying Kirkaldy’s garrison in the Castle, by riding about the fields in range of his guns with handkerchiefs tied to the points of their swords. One of these parties, commanded by Henry Stewart, second Lord Methven, in 1571, “being a little too forward, were severely reprimanded for their unreasonable bravery ; for, as they stood at a place called Broughton, a cannon bullet knocked his lordship and seven men on the head; he was reputed a good soldier, and had been more lamented had he behaved himself more wisely.” (Crawford of Drumsoy.) Like other barons, the feudal superior of Broughton had powers of “pit and gallows” over his vassals-so-called from the manner in which criminals were executed-hanging the men upon a gibbet, and drowning women in a pit as it was not deemed decent to hang them. Sir Lewis Bellenden In October, 1627, as the Privy Council was sitting in its chamber at the palace of Holyrood, a strange outrage took place. John Young, a poulterer, attacked Mr. Richard Bannatyne, bailiedepute of Broughton, at the Council-room door, and struck him in the back with his sword, nearly killing him on the spot. In great indignation the Council sent off Young to be tried on the morrow at the tolbooth, with orders : “ If he be convict, that his Majesty‘s justice and his depute cause doom to be pronounced against him, ordaining him to be drawn upon ane cart backward frae the tolbooth to the place of execution at the market cross, and there hangit to the deid and quartered, his head to be set upon the Nether Bow, and his hands to be set upon the Water Yett.” Sir William Bellenden, in 1627, disposed of the whole lands to Robert, Earl of Roxburgh, and by an agreement betweed hini and Charles I. this ancient barony passed by purchase to the Governors of Heriot’s Hospital in 1636, to whom the ... other lands, included those of “Lochflatt, Pleasance, Se Leonards, Hillhousefield, Bonnytoun, and ...

Vol. 3  p. 181 (Rel. 0.36)

which is of great height, contains a large painting over the stone fireplace of the Adoration of the Vise Men. A few steps from this was the old Bank Close (so-called from the Bank of Scotland having been in it), a blind alley, composed wholly of solid, handsome, , and massive houses, some of which were of great antiquity, and of old named Hope’s Close, from the celebrated Sir Thomas Hope, King’s Advocate in the time of Charles I., prior to whom it had borne the name of Mauchine’s Close, about the year 151 I. Here, on the site of the present Melbourne Place, stood a famous old mansion, almost unique even in Edinburgh, named Robert Gourlay’s House, with the legend, above its door, “0 Lord in fhe is a2 my fraift 1569”; and it is somewhat singular that the owner of this house was neither a man of rank nor of wealth, but simply a messenger- at-arms belonging to the Abbey of Holyrood, an office bestowed upon him by the Commendator, Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney. In I 5 74 Robert Gourlay was an elder of the kirk, and in that year had to do his public penance therein ‘(for franqorfing wheat out of the counfrie.” In 1581, when the Regent Morton was about to suffer death, he was placed in Gourlay’s house for two days under a guard; and there it was that those remarkable conferences took place between him and certain clergymen, in which, while protesting his innocence of the murder of Darnley, he admitted his foreknowledge of it. Among many popular errors, is one that he invented the “ maiden” by which he suffered ; but it is now known to have been the common Scottish guillotine, since Thomas Scott was beheaded by it on the 3rd of April, 1566. On the 7th of January, 1582, Mopse tells us in his Memoirs, “there came a French ambassador through England, named La Motte (Fenelon), he was lodged in Gourlay’s house near Tolbooth, and had an audience of his Majesty; with him there also came another ambassador from England, named Mr. Davidson, who got an audience also that same day in the king’s chamber of presence.” This was probably a kinsman of De la Motte, the French ambassador, who was slain at Flodden. He !eft Edinburgh on the 10th of February. Herein resided Sir William Drury during the siege of the Castle in 1573, and thither, on its surrender, was brought its gallant defender before death, with his brother Sir James Kirkaldy and others ; and it was here that in later years the great Argyle is said to . . DEACON BRODIE. (After Kay.) havhpassed his last hours in peaceful sleep before his execution. So Robert Gourlay’s old house had a terrible history. By this time the house had passed into the possession of Sir Thomas Hope. Hence it has been conjectured that Argyle’s last sleep took place in the high Council Room, whither, Wodrow says, he was brought before rxecutim. John Gourlay, son of Robert, erected a house at the foot of this ancient close. It bore the date I 588, with the motto, Spes aZtera vife. Herein was the Bank of Scotland first established in 1695, and there its business was conducted till 1805, when it was removed to their new office, that stupendous edifice . at the head of the entrance to the Earthen Mound. Latterly it was used as the University printing-office ; and therein, so latelyas 1824, was in use, as a proof press, the identical old wooden press which accompanied the Highland army, in 1745, for the publication of gazettes and manifestoes. Robert Gourlay’s house passed from the possession of Sir Thomas Hope and Lord Aberuchill into that of Sir George Lockhart (the great legal and political rival of Sir George Mackenzie), Lord President of the Session in 1685, and doomed to fall a victim to private revenge. Chiesly of Dalry, an unsuccessful litigant, enraged at the president for assigning a small aliment of A93 out of his estate-a fine one south-westward of the city-to his wife, from whom ... is of great height, contains a large painting over the stone fireplace of the Adoration of the Vise Men. A ...

Vol. 1  p. 116 (Rel. 0.36)

Lad Plovosts] PROVOST DRUMMOND. 281 - fluence of the Duke of Lauderdale. in return for ment of Colonel Gordon, who with Leslie and Walter Butler of the Irish Musketeers, slew the great M’allenstein, Duke of Friedland. Sir Hugh Cunningham was provost when Anne was proclaimed by the heralds at the Cross, on the 8th of March, 1702, Queen of Scotland ; and she in her first letter to Parliament pressed them to consider the advantages which might accrue to of the city. A cadet of the noble house of Perth, he his view of the city-a work wonderful for its ’ got a protection to enable him to appear in this I minuteness and fidelity-to provost Tod and the matter. “ Thus he was brought to the street again.” Council, who made him a free burgess, and paid him His predecessor in 1676 was a Sir William Binny, A333 6s. 8d. Scots, or A27 16s. 8d. sterling for who, in 1686 had a curious case before the Court I the drawing, which was engraved in Holland by of Session, against Hope of Carse, on the testa- De Witt, and dedicated to the provost and magisi trates, who appear by the city accounts to have had a collation on the occasion. The provost who was present at and presided over the barbarous execution of Montrose, in 1650, was Sir James Stewart of Coltness, who suffered therefor a long imprisonment after the Restoration, and was only rescued from something worse by his having obtained for his Grace L6,ooo as the price of the citadel of Leith. Sir Andrew while in the civic chair conducted himself so tyrannically, by applying the common good of the city for the use of himself and his friends, and by inventing new employments and concessory offices within it, to provide for his dependents, that the citizens, weary of his yoke, resolved to turn him out at the next election ; but he having had a majority the burgesses were forced to “intent a reduction of the election.” This case being submitted to the Chancellor and President, they ordered an Act to be passed in the Common Council of the city, declaring that none should hereafter continue in office as provost for more than two years. But this regulation has not been strictly observed, and the Lord Prwosts of the city are now elected for three years. In 1683 Sir George Drummond was Lord Pre vost ; but in August, 1685, he became a bankrupt, and took refuge in the Sanctuary at Holyrood, the first, says Fountainhall, “that during his office has broke in FAinburgh.” A week or two afterwards, a riot having taken place at the Town Guard-house, the Lord Chancellor, the Earl oi Perth, who was bound to do what he could to protect the provost, 84 was born in 1687, and when only eighteen years of age was employed by the Committee of the Scottish Parliament to give his assistance in the arrangement of the national accounts prior to the Union; and in 1707, on the establishment of the Excise, he was rewarded with the office of Accountant- General, and in I 7 I 7 he was a Commissioner of the Board of Customs. In 1725 he was elected Lord Provost for the first time, and two’years afterwas named one of the commissioners and trustees for improving the fisheries and manufactures of Scotland. Hewasthe principal agent in the erection of the Royal Infirmary ; and in I 745 he served as a volunteer with Cope’s army at the Rattle of Prestonpans. As grand-master of the freemasons he laid the foundation-stone of the Royal Exchange, and in 1755 was appointed to that lucrative-if dubious -office, a trustee on the forfeited estates of the Jacobite lords and landholders. We have related (in its place) how he laid the foundation-stone of the North Bridge. He died in 1766 in the eightieth year of his age, and was honoured, deservedly, with a public funeral in the Canongate. To Provost Drummond Dr. Robertson the historian owed his appointment as Principal of the University, which was also indebted to him for the institu ... Plovosts] PROVOST DRUMMOND. 281 - fluence of the Duke of Lauderdale. in return for ment of Colonel Gordon, ...

Vol. 4  p. 281 (Rel. 0.36)

maters past there, and how to betray his mistres; for they could not chuse a more fitte man than him to do such an act, who, from his very youth had been renouned for his treacherie, and of whom his oune father had no good opinion in his very infance; for, at a certain time, his coming foorth with him in a garden where his father was, with some one that had come to visit him, busy in talk, the nurse setting down the childe on thegreen grass, and not much mindinge him, th boy seeth a foude, which he snatched up and had eaten it all till a little of the legges, which when shee saw, shee cried out, thinking he should have been poisoned, and shee taking the legges of the toade that he had left as yet oneaten, he cried out so loud and shrill, that his father and the other gentleman heard the outcries, who went to see what should burgh,attainted and foundguiltie I‘oNE* THE ARMoRTA‘, account of the conflagration in the Scots --Magazine for that William Douglas of Whitting- . . families have lost their all. An of heigh treason for the murder of the king his maister.” OF CARDINAL BEATOX, FROM HIS HOUSE, BLACKFRIARS WYND. (From the Scoffiflr Anfiquarinn Museum.) year, which ‘adds, “ many poor ‘ opponent of Bishop William Abernethy Drummond of the Scottish Episcopal Church, one of the few clergymen who paid his respects to Charles Edward when he kept his court at Holyrood. By his energy Dr. Hay constructed a chapel in ChalmeIIs Close, which was destroyed in 1779, when an attempt to repeal the penal statutes against Catholics roused a “NO Popery” cry in Edinburgh. On the and of February a mob, including 500 sailors from Leith, burned this chapel and plundered another, while the bishop was living in the Blackfriars Wynd, and the house of every Catholic in Edinburgh was sacked and destroyed. Principal Robertson, who was supposed to be friendly :o Catholics, and defended themin the ensuing General Assembly, had his house attacked, his hame, grandson- of Archibald who made a disposition of the house in Blackfriars Wynd, was a contemporary of Morton’s, and was closely associated with him in the murder of Darnley. His name appears as one of the judges, in the act (‘ touching the proceedings of the Gordons and Forbesses,” and he resigned his seat as senator in 1590. Lower down, on the east side of the wynd, was a most picturesque building, part of which was long used as a Catholic chapel. It was dated 1619, and had carved above its door the motto of the city, together with the words, In te Domint Speravi-f‘ax intrantibus-SaZvus exeunti3us- Blissit be God in aZZ his gzyfis. On the fifth floor of this tenement was a large room, which during the greater part of the eighteenth century was used as a place of worship by the Scottish Catholics, and, until its demolition lately, there still remained painted on the door the name of the old bishop-Mr. Nay-for, in those days he dared designate himself nothing more. He was ce1,brated in theological literature as the old respectable citizen, above. 80, was carried out during the fire. Nearly opposite to it was another large tenement,‘ the upper storey of which was also long used as a Catholic chapel, rand as such was dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle of Scotland, until it was quitted, in 1813, for a more complete and ornate church, St. Mary’s in Broughton Street. After it was abandoned, “ the interior of the chapel retained much of its original state till its demolition. The framework of the simple altar-piece still remained, though the rude painting of the patron saint of Scotland which originally filled it had disappeared. Humble as must have been the appearance of this chapel-even when furnished with every adjunct of Catholic ceremonial for Christmas or Easter festivals, aided by the imposing habits of the officiating priests that gathered round its little altar-yet men of high rank and ancient lineage were wont to assemble among the worshippers.” With oihers, here caine coiistantly tc mass a d Happily. no lives were lost.” ... past there, and how to betray his mistres; for they could not chuse a more fitte man than him to do such ...

Vol. 2  p. 261 (Rel. 0.36)

208 OLD AND ‘NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. there was born in 1741 his son, the celebrated statesman, Henry Viscount Melville. There long abode, on the first floor of the “ Bishop’s Land,” a fine old Scottish gentleman, ‘‘ one of the olden time,” Sir Stuart Thriepland, of Fingask Castle, Bart., whose father had been attainted after the battle of Sheriffmuir, which, however, did not prevent Sir Stuart from duly taking his full share in the ‘45. His wanderings over, and the persecutions past, he took up his residence here, and had his house well hung, we are told, with well-painted portraits of royal per- He died 1 sonages-but not cf the reipinn house. One of the most famous edifices on the north side of the High Street was known as “ the Bishop’s Land,” so called from having been the town residence of John Spottiswood, Archbishop of St. Andrews in 1615, and son of John Spottiswood, Superintendent of Lothian, a reformed divine, who prayed over James VI., and blessed him when an infant in his cradle, in the Castle of Edinburgh. From him the Archbishop inherited the house, which bore the legend and date, BLISSIT .BE .YE. LORD. FOR.ALL. HIS. GIFTIS. 1578. consequently it must have been built when the Superintendent (whose father fell at Flodden) was in his sixty-eighth year, and was an edifice sufficiently commodious and magnificent to serve as a town residence of the Primate of Scotland, who in his zeal to promote the designs of James VI. for the establishment of Episcopacy, performed the then astounding task of no less than fifty journeys to London. The ground floor of the mansion, like many others of the same age in the same street, was formed of a deeply-arched piazza, the arches of whichsprang from massive stone piers. From the first floor there projected ~. ALLAN RAMSAY. (From the Portrait in ihe 1761 Edition e/ has “Poems.”) a fine brass balcony, that must many a time and oft have been hung with gay garlands and tapestry, and crowded with the fair and noble to witness the state pageants of old, such as the great procession of Charles I. to Holyrood, where he was crowned by the archbishop King of Scotland in 1633. From this house Spottiswood was obliged to fly, when the nation en mnsse resisted, with peremptory promptitude, the introduction of the Liturgy. He took refuge in London, where he died in 1639, and was interred in Westminster Abbey. In 1752 the celebrated Lady Jane Douglas, wife of Sir George Stuart of Grantully, and the heroine of the famous “ Douglas cause,” was an occupant of ‘‘ the Bishop’s Land,” till she ceased to be able to afford a residence even there. Therein, tDo, resided the first Lord President Dundas, and - - in 1805, and the forfeited honours were generously restored by George IV. in 1826 to his son, Sir Patrick M. Thriepland of Fingask, which had long before been purchased back by the money of his mother, Janet Sinclair of Southdun. On the third floor, above him, dwelt the Hamiltons of Pencaitland, and the baronial Aytouns of Inchdairnie. hlrs. Aytoun was Isabel, daughter of Kobert, fourth Lord Rollo, “ and would sometimes come down the stair,” says Robert Chambers, “ lighting herself with a little waxen taper, to drink tea with Mrs. Janet Thriepland (Sir Patrick‘s sister)-for so she called herself, though unmarried. In the uppermost floor of all lived a reputable tailor and his family. All the various tenants, including the tailor, were on friendly terms with ’ each other-a pleasant. thing to tell of this bit of the old world, which has left nothing of the same kind behind it in these days, when we all live at il greater distance, physical and moral, from each other.” This fine old tenement, which. was one of the most aristocratic in the street till a comparatively recent period, was totally destroyed by fire in 1814. Eastward of it stood the town-house of the Hendersons of Fordel (an old patrician Fifeshire family), with whom Queen Mary was once a visitor; but it, too, has passed away, and an ... OLD AND ‘NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. there was born in 1741 his son, the celebrated statesman, Henry ...

Vol. 2  p. 208 (Rel. 0.35)

GENERAL INDEX. 379 .Her!or brewery, The, 11.374 Henot free schools, 11. 374 37: Heriot Kow, 11.1~5, 158,194, 201 .Heriot's Bridge, 11. 234 Heriot's Green, 11. 371, 372, 373 Heriot's Hill, I l l . 86, 87 .Heriot's Hill House, 111. *88 Heriot's Hospital, I. 48, 55, 64, 76, 134, 176, 242, 335, 11. 33s 84, 115. its designer, rb. ; curious itemsof expenditure, ib.; generaldescription of the building 11. 369, 370 ; views of the hospidl, II.364,368, Heriot's School, I. 198, 11. 184, 250, 37% 373, 376, 379. pb& 24 274 Lord) 265. 266 266 Heriot's Trust, 11. 358 Hermand, Lord (sec Fergusson, Hermitage, The, Leith Links, 111. Hermitage Hill, Leith, III.175,186, Hermitage Place, 111. 79 Hermitage Terrace 111. 266 Heron's Court. I. ,b~ Herries, Sir Rbberi I. 179 Herring Sir John 111. 346 Herrini fishery, $he Newhaven, 111. $2 - - Hertford, Earl of, I. 43, lob, 217, 11. 2, 48, 56, 111. 169, 179, 218, 3'07 347, .Heme Prinrr of 111. 194 High kalton T i e street 11. 103 High Churc'h The, &.* Giles's Cathedral, 1: 14x '148 149 High Constables o t the dalton, 11. '03 High Constables, Society of, 11. 23 Highest buildings in Edinburgh, I. Hiehla;ldar;dAericultural Society's *168 191 193 chambers, I.'zg~, zg Highland Society of &cotland, I. $94,295 ighlanders in Edinburgh, I. 322 323,324. 11,133 ; employmental 11. 235 ; Gaelic chapel for ib. Highlanders,Revultofthe S'eaforth, Highrtggs, 11. 222, 223, 230, 325, 366 111. Z,% Highiiggs 80use 11. 223 .High School of ddinburgh, I. 110, 963, 11. 1 1 ~ 1 1 3 , 168, 2-1 259, 303, 327, 314! 111. 3, 86;k:story of the old igh School, 11. 287- 193; thesecond High School, 11. 193; the new High School, 11. 1x0-114; views of the High School, 11. *113, *q*, *z#; carved stone over the entrance to the first High School 11. . eminent masters and kctors:%: 2-06 11. 307-310 Hiih S&Al brawls 11.289 High School Close '11. 17 High School Club'The, 11. 113 High School, Leith 111. *265 High Fhool Wynd, I. 11. 249, High'School Yard, 11. 275, 293, J&h'J%t, The, I. P, 31, 43, 79, 947 I212 123, 126, 1.53, 1541 155,183,187,191-a82~335,II. 64, 95, 119, '57s 239, 24'2 2431 25% 138, I++; conflicts in the, I. 39, 50, 55 194-196. first paved and lighteh, I. '92'; high-storeyed houses, ib. ; removal of household garbage, 193; the night watch, 194 ; use offire-arms in the streetr forbidden, ib . fights between rival clans, 1&196 ; abduction of women and girls, 197 ; sump tuary laws a inst women 197 198 ; the LorrF'rovost, 19;; th; a t y police, ib. ; banquets at the C m , zoo; city constables, I. 203 ; cleanliness enforced, ib. 1 the city lighted withgas, ib. ; the Black Turnpike, zq; bitter re. ception of Queen Mary, ib. ; the house of Fentonbans. 207 j Ban- 250 02 253, 286, 287, 112 I2 283, 2938 294, 375, Id. 6, Ia,47. natwe, the printer ib. . the Bishop's Land, 208 its dishguished residents, ib. ; the Earls of Crawford zag - the first shop of Allan Kakay,' 210 ; Ancrum Hou~e, zrz: the first shop of Constable and Co., 212 213; Manners and Millar, book&llers, 213; ancient houses, ib. ; Knox's house and church, ib. ; &herino mansion, ib. ; the preaching window Knox'shouse 214; house of Archbishop Shkpe, 21s ; the Nether Bow Port, ar,; the earlier gate ib, ; the Kegent Morton's su&riw party, 218. the last gate, ib.; the ancient marirets, zr9 ; house of Adam Rothwell Bishop of Orkney, ib. ; the bishoi and Queen Mary, ib . Sir Wilrim Dick of Braid, z;dr 221 ; his colo~sal wealth, a m ; hard fortune, ib. ; Advocates' Close, ib. ; Sir James Stewart's house, ib. ; Andrew Crosbie, ib. ; Scougal's picture-gallery, 223 ; Roxburghe Close, ib. ; Warriston's Close. ab. ; William and Robert Chambers 224-226 ; house of Sir Thond Craig, 226 ; Sir Archibald Johnston of Warriston 226 127 ; Mary King's Close i27 f Mr. and Mrs. Colthearh ghostly visitors rb. . Craig's Close 229 * Andd H& bwkselly, b. ; tke " Isle of Man Arms, 230; the Cape Club cb . the Poker Club ib . Old k&p Office Close, '23; f Fortune's lavern, ib. ; the Countess of Eglinton, 231-234 ; murderous riot in the Close, 234 ; the Anchor Close 235; Dawney Dou 185's tavirn 235 236; the CpcLllan Club,' 235 f Smellie's printing-office 235, 236. Mylne's Square, 2 3 d z 3 8 : ~orld AI='s house, 237; thecountess ofSutherland and lady Glenorchy, 237, 238; Halkerston's Wynd 238 : Kinlochs Clox, ib. ; Car! rubber's Close, 238140 ; Capt. Matthew Hendemn, 239 ; Alkn R-y's theatre, ib.; its later tenants, id. ; the Tailors' Hall 239,240 ; *' Hyve awa, lads, I d no deid yet ib. . Chalmers' Close, -16. ; hope's'house, ib, ; Sandiland's Close, ib. ; Bishop Kennedy's house, ib.; Baron Grant's House, ,:41; the " Salamander Land 242 ; the old Fishmarket Close, ib. : Heriot's mansion ib. . the Deemster's house ib.; Bbrthwick's Close ib. ; I k d Dune's house, i6. ; th; old Assembly Rooms, ib. ; Miss Nicky Mum 243 ; formalities of the balls it: ladies' fashions 245; Bell': Wynd $6. . BIa& Street and Hunter'; Squire, ib. ; ' Kennedy's Close, ib. ; Niddry's Wynd, ib. ; Provost Nicol Edwards' house, 245, 246, 247 : Lockhart's Court, r6. ; St. M a j s Chapel, lb. ; Masonic Lodge meetings, ib. ; Lady Glenorchy, ib. ; story of Lady Grange 248- 251; St. Cecilia Hall Z;I; its old-fashioned concerts,'ib. ; the belles of the eighteenth century, ib. . the name Niddry, 252 ; Diikson's and Cant's Closes, 253 ; house of David Allan, zb. ; Rosehaugh's Close, id. ; house of the Abbots of hIelrase, ib. ; Sit George Mackenzie of Rwhaugh, 254 ; Lady Anne Dick, lb. ; Lord Strichen, ib.; the manners 01 17 0, ib. ; Provost Grieve, 255 ; J t o n Dhu, ib. ; Lad Lovat's Land, ib. ; Walter Ehepman, rimer, ib. ; Lady Lovat 257 ; backfriars Wynd, 258 : Sir Wdrim Stewart slain by Rothwell 259 ; escape of Archbisho; Sharpe, rb . Cameronian meeting- house, ' >b. ; house of the Regent Mortan ib. : Catholic chapels of the'eighteenth cen tury, 261. Bishop Hay ib. Baron Smi;h's chapel, 262'; Car d i d Beaton's house 263; Its historical association:, io. ; IU ultimate occupants 264; the United Industrial School, 265 ; Toddricks Wynd, 2 6 6 ; Lord Leven's house in Skinner'sClose, 267 ; the Scottish Mint, ib. ; Argyle's lodging,a70; Dr.Cullen, 271 ; Elphinstone's Court, 272; Lords Loughborough and Stonefield z7r 273' Lord Selkirk 274' Dr. kutierfoid, ib. ; house Af th; Earls of Hyndford ib. ; the three romps of MoAreith, 275; Anne Countess of Balcarres, 276 ; Souti Foulis' Close, ib. ; Fountain Close. ib. ; Endmylie's Well ib. ; house of Bailie Fullerton: 277; Koyal College of Physicians, 278 ; Tweeddale Close, ib. ; hollse of the Marquis of Tweeddale, ib.; the British Linen Company, 279 ; murder of Begbie, 280; the World's EndClose,z81; the Stanfield tragedy, ib. : titled residents in the old closes, 282 ligh Street, Portobello, 111. 152, * I53 Till Mrs. the xulptor, 11. 131 -Iill!house'Field, Leith, 111. go, 273 lill Street, 11. 159, 165 lobart Lord 11. 373 logarih Gedrge W.S., 11. 26 7ogarth' The Scbttish I. 253 logg. J k e s , the EttrigkShepherd, 1. 7, 15. 339, 11. '27, 1409 142, '7% '99, 111. 747 7 I 126, 1277 I79 Holderness Robert %arl of, 11. 39 ' Hole in the Wall" Inn, 11. 268 Holland John projector of the Bank ;If Scotlkd, 11. 93,95 HoLstein Visit of the Duke of, to Edinbhrgh I. III Holy Cross, Abbey of the, 11. 288 Holy Cross, Kirk of the, 11. ~ o o Holyrood Abbey, I. 19, m, 4 4 116, 139, 2f7.s 23p 11. 11, 42-60> 379; its ongin, 1. 42, 43, 4; its endowments 11. 44, 46, 111. 49; list of abbbts, I1.46-49,III. 41 ; seal of the Abbey, 11. *46; its relicsandrevenues, II.5o;church of 11. * 5 6 ; nave of, 11. *57; d&s;truction of, 11. 57, 58 : right of sanctuary, 11. 60 ; Hollar's print of, 11. *45 ; Gothic porch and gatehouse 11. 11 Holy Rood Acd, The, 11. 239 H+rocd, Ancient chapel of the, 11. 239 Holyrood chapel, St. Giles's church. Holyrood dairy 11. * 305 Holyrwd Foun$in,The, 11. g *SI Holyrood House, I. 199 ; the &&I Royal, 11. * 49 Holyroodhouse, Lord, I. go, 158, zm. aza, 11. 49,111. zgg Holyrood Palace, I. xi 6, 40, 42> 54 55, 58, 7% 791 90. '75,204, 11. at, 11. 66-7'. 111. 4, 7 ; Charles I. at, 11. 73; James Duke oi York and Albany at, I. 335 11. 75, 111. 11; arrival of Pr'incc Charles Edward at, I. 316; Comtc d'Artois at, 11. 76, 78 ; isometric projectionof the Palace, 11. 61 views of the Palace, 11. 68, * 6q *72;modemviews, II.*73 *Bo 81 ; monuments, I. 196, zm: 238 the old Mint, I. 267 : sanctuaq of, 11. 11, 281, 303 ; plan ofth: sanctuary, 11. * 3 q ; Hollar: print of, 11. ' 45 yard, I. 256 L 7 9 , 236, 354; Queen Maq Holyrood Tennis Court, 111. 125 Home Earl of, 11. 31 Home: Lord, I. 40, 49,II. zzz, 111 Home, Sir John, I. 102 Home, Alexander Lord, Provost Home Alexander Provost 11. z& Home: George, Cierk of .%Lion, I 29. 134, 298 11. 279 zar Home, Sir George, Lord Provost Home ofthe Heugh, Patrick, III.3( Home of Polwarth, Patrick, I1 Home of Wedderburn,David, 1.4, t: 111. 46 180. 111. 36 Iome, NinQn, the dominie, 111.156 Iome Lady I. a82 11. 31 iamb, John,'autho:of '' Douglas," 11. 24-7 127.334 111. 45,21g, 24o-zp ; hisancestors, III. 240 ; h~s death and burial-place, ib. Iome Street, 11. zaz iowerton the actor, I. 350 Iornildon'Hill (see Battles) ioneyman, Bishop ofOrkney, 1.259 ioneyman, Sir William, Lord Armadale, 1. 259 Iooly, Mount, I. 383 looped ladies, r. z++ 245 iope of Granton, imd Jwtice- Clerk, 1. 159. 11. 159 lope, Right Hon. Charles, of the Edinburgh Volunteers, 11. *I 7 mal 268, 372, 374, 111. 311 ; k conduct as Lord Advocate, 11. 102 a03 lor, I. 36 , 111 77 maAsion of, 11.243 house of I. 240 {ope: %Alexander, Lord Rankeil- <ope Sirlrchibald, 111. 270 4ope' Sir Thomas, I. 116, 11. 243; <ope, John de, I. 94; supposcd <ope Major-General, 11, 19 <ope' Profesar John 11. 293 lope' President 11. ;gs 4ope'of Carse, iI. 281 lope of Craighall, The family os 111.311. 111. 316 agriculturist, 11. 3;7 *ope of Craighall, Sir Thomas, Hope of Rankeillor Thomas, the Hope Dr. John, I. 3631*364. 111.161 Hope' Robert, physician, 11. zg8 Hope' Park, 11. 339,347, 348, W. Kope Jark Chapel, 111. 51 Hope Park Congregational Church, Rope Park Crescent, 11. 349 Hope Park Terrace 11. 3 Hope Park United Pregyterian Church, 111. 51 Hope Street, 11. 130,165 Hope's Close, 1. 116 Hopetoun, Earl of, I. 238, 3 354 513 I!I. 54 111. 5' 111. 57 Hope Park En4 11. ~ 9 , 351, 35% , 11. 38, 1% 171, 1%~ 34% IIp16rs 190, 323,362; houseof, I. 40, IL 26; monument to 11. 171 . Hopetoun Fenciblei, 11. 236 Hopetoun House 111. 77 Hopetouu Laird'of 111. 57 Hopetoun'Rooms h. 158, 111. 78 Hopkins, Mrs. a&ess, 11. 24 Horn Charity,'The, I. 308 Horn Lane 111. 76 Horn Orde: The 111. IZZ Horner, Frkcis,'I. 379, 11. 187, Horner, Leonard, I. 165, 291, 379, 292, 29.52 347 111. 342, Horseracing on Leith Sands, 111. Horse Wynd, I. 267. 282, 11.27, 38, Hos~italbfO&Mlessed Lady,I.po Hospital of St. Thomas, 11. 39 47 Hospitallers of St. Anthony, L k h , Hotels, The street for, 11. 123 House of Correction, I. 301.302 House of Industry 111. 125 House in High &reet, with memorial window (' Heave awa, Lids, I'm no deidyet," I. z4oo,*24r H o u ~ of the Kirk-of-Field, 111. 268-270 39 .& 255 256, 158, 274, 282 111. 216 4, 6, 7 Household garbage, The streets formerly receptacles for 1. 192 Houses in the New Tom: Number Houston, Archibald, Murder of, I. Houston Lad 11. 331 Howe Sireet, fi. 1% Howard, the philanthropist, I. 132, Howf The Leith 111. 23r Hugk Mill& (scs kfiller) Hugh Miller Place, 111. 75 Human heads Exposure of 11.4 Humane smiity of Leith, ~ I I . a% . - 48, !49 Of, 11. 175 '96 359 - ... INDEX. 379 .Her!or brewery, The, 11.374 Henot free schools, 11. 374 37: Heriot Kow, 11.1~5, 158,194, ...

Vol. 6  p. 378 (Rel. 0.35)

130 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig. By interdict the directors were compelled to give access to the well, which they grudgingly did by a species of drain, till the entire edifice was removed to where it now stands. Near the site of the well is the ancient church of Restalrig, which, curiously enough, at first sight has all the air of an entirely modern edifice ; but on a minute inspection old mouldings and carvings of great antiquity make their appearance in conjunction with the modern stonework of its restoration. It is a simple quadrangular building, without aisles or transept. The choir, which is the only part of the building that has escaped the rough hands of the iconoclasts of the sixteenth century, is a comparatively small, though handsome, specimen of Decorated English Gothic ; and it remained an open ruin until a fev years since, when it was restored in a manner as a chapel of ease for the neighbouring district. But a church existed here long before the present one, and it was celebrated all over Scotland for the tomb of St. Triduana, who died at Restalrig, and whose shrine was famous as the resort of pilgrims, particularly those who were affected by diseased eyesight. Thus, to this day, she is frequently painted as carrying her own eyes on a salver or the point of a sword. A noble virgin of Achaia, she is said to have come to Scotland, in the fourth century, with St. Rule. Her name inferred that the well afterwards called St. Margaret’s was the well of St. Triduana. Curiously enough, Lestalric, the ancient name of Restalrig, is that by which it is known in the present day; and still one of the roads leading to it from Leith is named the Lochsterrock Road The existence of a church andparish here, long prior to the death of King Alexander 111. is proved by various charters ; and in 1291, Adam of St. Edmunds, prior of Lestalric, obtained a writ, addressed to the sheriff of Edinburgh, to put him in possession of his lands and rights. The same ecclesiastic, under pressure, like many others at SEAL OF THE COLLEGIATE cnmcn OF RESTALRIG. is unknown in the Roman Breviary; but a recent writer says, ‘‘ S t Triduana, with two companions, devoted themselves to a recluse life at Roscoby, but a Pictish chief, named Nectan, having been attracted by her beauty, she fled into Athole to escape him. As his emissaries followed her there, and she discovered that it was her eyes which had entranced him, she plucked them out, and, fixing them on a thorn, sent them to her admirer. In consequence of this practical method of satisfying a lover, St. Triduana, who came to Restalrig to live, became famous, and her shrine was for many generations the resort of pilgrims whose eyesight was defective, miraculous cures being effected by the waters of the well.” Sir David Lindsay writes of their going to “ St. Trid well to mend their ene;” thus it has been the time, swore fealty to Edward I. of England in 1296. Henry de Leith, rector of Restalrig, appeared as a witness against the Scottish Knights of the Temple, at the trial in Holyrood in 1309. The vicar, John Pettit, is mentioned in the charter of confirmation by James III., under his great seal of donations to the Blackfriars of Edinburgh in 1473.. A collegiate establishment of considerable note, having a dean, with nine prebends and two singing boys, was constituted at Restalrig by James III., and completed by James V. j but it seems not to have interfered with the parsonage, which remained entire till the Reformation. The portion of the choir now remaining does not date, it is supposed, earlier than from the fourteenth century, and is much plainer, says Wilson, than might be expected in a church enriched by the contributions of three pious monarchs in succession, and resorted to by so many devout pilgrims as to excite the special indignation of one of the earliest assemblies of the Kirk, apparently on account of its abounding with statues and images. By the Assembly of 1560 it was ordered to be “ raysit and utterly casten doun,” as a monument of idolatry; and this order was to some extent obeyed, and the ‘‘ aisler stanis ” were taken by Alexander Clark to erect a house with, but were used by the Reformers to build a new Nether Bow Port. The parishioners of Restalrig were ordered in future to adopt as their parish church that of St. Mary’s, in Leith, which continues to the present day to be South Leith church. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig. By interdict the directors were compelled to give access to the well, ...

Vol. 5  p. 130 (Rel. 0.34)

... Vlll OLD' AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER XXXIX. , T H E W E S T B 0 W (conclud-d.) PAGE A Hand to Hand Combat in the Bow-Murder'in 1h5 in the Bow-The House of Lord Ruthven-The Hidden Sword-Processions in the Bow-The Jacobite Prisoners-House of Provost Stewart-A Secret Entertainment to Prince Charles-Donaldson the Printer-State of Printing and Publishing in his Day-The Edimburck Adwcrfiser-Splendid Fortunc of his Descendant-Town House ,of the Napiers of Wrightshouse-Trial of Barbara Napier for Witchcdt-Clcckmaker's Land-Paul Romieu-The Mahogany Land- Duncan Campbell, Chirurgeon-Templar Houses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 CHAPTER XL. E D I N B U R G H I N 1745. Pmvost Stewart-Advance of the Jacobite Clans-Preparations far DefenctCapturc of the City-Lachiel's Surp&-Entance of Prince Charles-Arrival at Holyrood-JamesVIII. Proclaimed at the Cross-Conduct of the Highland Tmps in the City-Colquhoun Grant- A Triumphal ProcessiOn--Guest's Council of War-Preston's Fidelity . . . . . . . . . . . . . jZZ CHAPTER XLI. EDINBURGH IN 1745 (concluded), General Guest's "Brave~~"-Popularity of the Prince-Castle Blockaded-It Fires on the City-Leith Bombarded-End of the Blockade -Departure of the Highland Army for ' England-Prisoners in the Castle-Macdonald of Teindreich-Duke of Cumberland in Ediiburgh-Burning of the Standards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 CHAPTER XLII. T H E NORTH BRIDGE. The New Town projected by Jams VIL-The North Bridge and other Structures by the Earl of Mar, 1728-Oppased in 175g-Foundation Stone Laid-Erection Delayed till 1$5-Henderson's Plan-William Mylne appointed Architect-Terms of the Contract-Fall of the Bridge-Repired and Completed--The Upper and Lower Flesh-Markets-Old Post OffictAdam Black-Ann Street-The Ettrick Shepherd and the .. Nocks"-The Bridge Widened . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 CHAPTER XLIII. EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE. Dingwall's Castle-Whitefield's " Preachings "-History of the Old Theatre Royal-The Building-David Ross's Management-Leased to Mr. Foote-Then to Mr. Digges-Mr. Moss-Mrs. Yates-Next Leased to Mr. Jackson-The Siddons Ram-Reception of the Great Actress-Mrs. Baddeley-New Patent-the playhouse Riot--"The Scottish Roscius"-A Ghost-Expiry of the Patent . . . 340 CHAPTER XLIV.. EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (continued). Old Theatre Royal-Management of Mr. Henry Siddons-Mr. Mumy-Miss O'Neill-Production of Rd Roy-Visit of George IV. to the Theatre- Eoinburgh Theatrical Fund-Scott and his Novels-Retirement of Mr. Mumy-The Management of Mr. and ME. Wyndham-The Closing Night of the Theatre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 CHAPTER XLV. EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (codinwed). Memorabilia of the General Post Office-First Postal Svstem in Scotland-First Communication with Irdand-Sanctions given by the Scottish Parliament-Expenses of the Establkhment at various Periods-The Horse Posts-Violation of Letter Bags-Casualties of the Period- The First Stage Coach-Peter Willison-The Various Post Ofice Buildings--The Waterloo Place Office-Royal Arms Removed- New 06ce Built-Staffand F d Details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .353 CHAPTER XLVI. EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (concluded). The Old Orphan Hospital-It5 Foundation, Object, and Removal-Lady Glenorchy's Chapel-Her Disputes with the Presbytery-Dr. Snell JonesDemolition of the Chapel and School-Old PhysiC Gardens Formed-The Gardens-& Andrew Balfour-James Suthe.-land- . Inundatedin ~~Sutherland5EffortstoImprovetheGardens-ProfessorHope . . . . . . . . . . . 359 ... Vlll OLD' AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER XXXIX. , T H E W E S T B 0 W (conclud-d.) PAGE A Hand to Hand ...

Vol. 2  p. 390 (Rel. 0.34)

9d OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Castle HX one going plump down a vent they set up a shout of joy. Sir David laughed, and entreated the father of the lads ‘‘ not to be too angry ; he and his brother,” he added with some emotion, “when CANNON BALL IN WALL OF nowE IN CASTLE KILL. living here at the same age, had indulged in precisely the same amusement, the chimneys then, as now, being so provokingly open to attacks, that there was no resisting the temptation.” From the Bairds of Newbyth the house passed to the Browns of Greenbank, and from them, Brown’s Close, where the modern entrance to it is situated, On the same side of the street Webster‘s Close served to indicate the site of the house of Dr. Alexander Webster, appointed in 1737 to the Tolbooth church.. In his day one of the most popular men in the city, he was celebrated for his wit and socid qualities, and amusing stories are still told of his fondness for claret With the a s sistance of Dr. Wallace he matured his favourite scheme of a perpetual fund for the relief of widows and children of the clergy of the Scottish Church; and when, in 1745, Edinburgh was in possession of the Jacobite clans, he displayed a striking proof of his fearless character by employing all his eloquence and influence to retain the people in their loyalty to the house of Hanover. He had some pretension to the character of a poet, 2nd an amatory piece of his has been said to rival -the effusions of Catullus. It was written in allusion to his mamage with Mary Erskine. There is one wonderfully impassioned verse, in which, after describing a process of the imagination, by which ’he comes to think his innamarata a creature of more . derives its name. than mortal purity, he says that at length he clasps her to his bosom and discovers that she is but a woman after all ! ‘‘ When I see thee, I love thee, but hearing adore, I wonder and think you a woman no more, Till mad with admiring, I cannot contain, And, kissing those lips, find you woman again ! ” He died in January, 1784. Eastward of this point stands a very handsome old tenement of great size and breadth, presenting a front of polished ashlar to the street, surmounted by dormer windows. Over the main entrance to Boswell’s Court (so named from a doctor who resided there about the close of the last century) there is a shield, and one of those pious legends so peculiar to most old houses in Scottish burghs. 0. LORD. IN. THE. IS. AL. MI. TRAIST. Andthis edifice uncorroborated tradition asserts to have been the mansion of the. Earls of Bothwell. A tall narrow tenement immediately to the west of the Assembly Hall forms the last ancient building on the south side of the street. It was built in 1740, by hfowbray of Castlewan, on the site of ‘ a venerable mansion belonging to the Countess Dowager of Hyndford (Elizabeth daughter of John Earl of Lauderdale), and from him it passed, about 1747, into the possession of William Earl of Dumfries, who served in the Scots Greys and Scots Guards, who was an aide de camp at the battle of Dettingen, and who succeeded his mother, Penelope, countess in her own right, and afterwards, by the death of his brother, as Earl of Stair. He was succeeded in it by his widow, who, within exactly a year and day of his death, married the Hon. Alexander Gordon (son of the Earl of Aberdeen), who, on his appointment to the bench in 1784, assumed the title of Lord Rockville. He was the last man of rank who inhabited this stately uld mansion ; but the narrow alley which gives‘access to the court behind bore the name of Rockville Close. Within it, and towards the west there towered a tall substantial edifice once the residence of the Countess of Hyndford, and sold by her, in 1740, to Henry Bothwell of Glencome, last Lord Holyroodhouse, who died at his mansion in the Canongate in 1755. The corner of the street is now terminated by the magnificent hall built in 1842.3, at the cost of &16,000 for the accommodation of the General Assembly, which sits here annually in May, presided over by a Commissioner, who is always a Scottish nobleman, and resides in Holyrood Palace, where he holds royal state, and gives levCes in the gallery of the kings of Scotland. The octagonal ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Castle HX one going plump down a vent they set up a shout of joy. Sir David ...

Vol. 1  p. 90 (Rel. 0.34)

MUSCHAT’S CAIRN. 311 Arthur’r Seat.] terrible schemes occupied Nichol. Muschat, his brother, and his sister-in-law, together with Burnbank, “ in the Christian city of Edinburgh, during a course of many months, without any one, to appearance, ever feeling the slightest compunction towards the poor weman, though it is admitted she loved her husband, and no real fault on her side has ever been insinuated.” At length it would seem that Nicol, infatuated and lured by evil fate, at the suggestion of ‘‘ the devil, that cunning adversary ”-as his confession has it-borrowed a knife, scarcely knowing for what purpose, and, inviting his unsuspecting wife to walk with him as far as Duddingston one night, cut her throat near the line of trees that marked the Duke’s Walk. He then rushed in a demented state to tell his brother what he had done, and thereafter sank into a mood of mind that made all seem blank to him. Next morning the unfortunate victim was found “with her throat cut to the bone,” and many other wounds received in her dying struggle. In the favourite old Edinburgh religious by a cairn near the east gate and close to the north wall. “The original cairn is said to have been several paces farther west than the present one, the stones of which were taken dut of the old wall whenit was pulled down to give place to the new gate that was constructed previous to the late royal visit ”-that of George IV. In 1820 the pathway round Salisbury Craigs was formed, and named the “ Radical Road ” from ‘the , circumstance of the destitute and discontented west-country weavers being employed on its construction under a committee of gentlemen. At that time it was proposed to “sow the rocks with wall-flowers and other >I‘ AlAKGAKET’S WELI.. tract, which narrates the murderous story, in telling where he went before doing the deed, he says that he passed ‘‘ through the Tidies,” at the end of a lane which was near the Meadows. The entrance to the Park, near the Gibbet Fall, was long known as “the Tirliea,” implying a sort of stile. Nicol Muschat was tried, and confessed all. He was hanged, on the 6th of the ensuing January in the Grassmarket, while his associate Burnbank was declared infamous, and banished ; and the people, to mark their horror of the event, in the old Scottish fashion raised a cairn on the spot where the murder was perpetrated, and it has ever since been a well-remembered locality. The first cairn was removed during the formation of a new footpath through the park, suggested by Lord Adam Gordon, who was resident at Holyrood House in 1789, when Commander of the Forces in Scotland; but from a passage in the WeekOJournal we find that it was restored in 1823 odoriferous and flowering plants.” It was also suggested “ to plant the cliffs above the walk with the rarest heaths from the Cape of Good Hope and other foreign parts.” ( Weekfiyuumal, XXIV.) The papers of this time teem with bitter complaints against the Earl of Haddington, who, as a keeper of the Royal Park, by an abuse of his prercgative, was quarrying away the craigs, and selling the stone to pave the streets of London; and the immense gaps in their south-western face still remain as proofs of his selfish and unpatriotic rapacity. As a last remnant of the worship of Baal, or Fire, we may mention the yearly custom that still exists of a May-day observance, in the young of the female sex particularly, ascending Arthur’s Seat on Beltane morning at sunrise. ‘‘ On a fine May morning,” says the “ Book of Days,” “ the appearance of so many gay groups perambulating the hill sides and the intermediate valleys, searching for dew, and rousing the echoes with their harmless mirth, has an indescribably cheerful effect.” Many old citizens adhered to this custom with wonderful tenacity, and among the last octogenarians who did so we may mention Dr. Andrew Duncan of Adam Square, the founder of the Morningside Asylum, who paid his last annual visit to the hill top on hlayday, 1S26~ in his eighty-second year, two years before his death ; and James Burnet, the last captain of the old Town Guard, a man who weighed nindeen stone, ascended ... CAIRN. 311 Arthur’r Seat.] terrible schemes occupied Nichol. Muschat, his brother, and his ...

Vol. 4  p. 310 (Rel. 0.33)

Arthur’r Seat.] MUSCHAT’S CAIRN. 311 terrible schemes occupied Nichol. Muschat, his brother, and his sister-in-law, together with Burnbank, “ in the Christian city of Edinburgh, during a course of many months, without any one, to appearance, ever feeling the slightest compunction towards the poor weman, though it is admitted she loved her husband, and no real fault on her side has ever been insinuated.” At length it would seem that Nicol, infatuated and lured by evil fate, at the suggestion of ‘‘ the devil, that cunning adversary ”-as his confession has it-borrowed a knife, scarcely knowing for what purpose, and, inviting his unsuspecting wife to walk with him as far as Duddingston one night, cut her throat near the line of trees that marked the Duke’s Walk. He then rushed in a demented state to tell his brother what he had done, and thereafter sank into a mood of mind that made all seem blank to him. Next morning the unfortunate victim was found “with her throat cut to the bone,” and many other wounds received in her dying struggle. In the favourite old Edinburgh religious by a cairn near the east gate and close to the north wall. “The original cairn is said to have been several paces farther west than the present one, the stones of which were taken dut of the old wall whenit was pulled down to give place to the new gate that was constructed previous to the late royal visit ”-that of George IV. In 1820 the pathway round Salisbury Craigs was formed, and named the “ Radical Road ” from ‘the , circumstance of the destitute and discontented west-country weavers being employed on its construction under a committee of gentlemen. At that time it was proposed to “sow the rocks with wall-flowers and other >I‘ AlAKGAKET’S WELI.. tract, which narrates the murderous story, in telling where he went before doing the deed, he says that he passed ‘‘ through the Tidies,” at the end of a lane which was near the Meadows. The entrance to the Park, near the Gibbet Fall, was long known as “the Tirliea,” implying a sort of stile. Nicol Muschat was tried, and confessed all. He was hanged, on the 6th of the ensuing January in the Grassmarket, while his associate Burnbank was declared infamous, and banished ; and the people, to mark their horror of the event, in the old Scottish fashion raised a cairn on the spot where the murder was perpetrated, and it has ever since been a well-remembered locality. The first cairn was removed during the formation of a new footpath through the park, suggested by Lord Adam Gordon, who was resident at Holyrood House in 1789, when Commander of the Forces in Scotland; but from a passage in the WeekOJournal we find that it was restored in 1823 odoriferous and flowering plants.” It was also suggested “ to plant the cliffs above the walk with the rarest heaths from the Cape of Good Hope and other foreign parts.” ( Weekfiyuumal, XXIV.) The papers of this time teem with bitter complaints against the Earl of Haddington, who, as a keeper of the Royal Park, by an abuse of his prercgative, was quarrying away the craigs, and selling the stone to pave the streets of London; and the immense gaps in their south-western face still remain as proofs of his selfish and unpatriotic rapacity. As a last remnant of the worship of Baal, or Fire, we may mention the yearly custom that still exists of a May-day observance, in the young of the female sex particularly, ascending Arthur’s Seat on Beltane morning at sunrise. ‘‘ On a fine May morning,” says the “ Book of Days,” “ the appearance of so many gay groups perambulating the hill sides and the intermediate valleys, searching for dew, and rousing the echoes with their harmless mirth, has an indescribably cheerful effect.” Many old citizens adhered to this custom with wonderful tenacity, and among the last octogenarians who did so we may mention Dr. Andrew Duncan of Adam Square, the founder of the Morningside Asylum, who paid his last annual visit to the hill top on hlayday, 1S26~ in his eighty-second year, two years before his death ; and James Burnet, the last captain of the old Town Guard, a man who weighed nindeen stone, ascended ... Seat.] MUSCHAT’S CAIRN. 311 terrible schemes occupied Nichol. Muschat, his brother, and his ...

Vol. 4  p. 311 (Rel. 0.33)

180 OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH, [Leith. 1596-7. In 1578 an Act of Parliament was passed to prevent “ the taking away of great quantities of victual and flesh from Leith, under the pretence of victualling ships.”. In the same year a reconciliation having been effected between the Earl of Morton and the nobles opposed to him, the Earls of Argyle, Montrose, Athole, and Buchan, Lord Boyd, and many other persons of distinction, dined with him jovially at an hostelry in Leith, kept by William Cant. There was considerable alarm excited in Edinburgh, Leith, and along the east coast generally, by a plague which, as Moyes records, was brought from Dantzig by John Downy’s ship, the WiZZiam of ~ 5 t h . By command of the Privy Council, the ship was ordered, with her ailing and dead, to anchor off Inchcolm, to which place all afflicted by the plague were to confine themselves. The crew consisted of forty men, of whom the majority died. Proclamation had been made at the market-cross of every east coast town against permitting this fated crew to land. By petitions before the Council it appeared that William Downie, skipper in Leith, left a widow and eleven children; Scott, a mariner, seven. The survivors were afterwards re- Trades of Leith were declared independent of those of Edinburgh by a decree of the Court of Session. In October, 1589, James VI. embarked at Leith for Norway, impatient to meet his bride, Anne of Denmark, to whom he had been married by proxy. She had embarked in August, but her fleet had been detained by westerly gales, and there seemed little prospect of her reaching Scotland before the following spring. Though in that age a voyage to the Baltic was a serious matter in the fall of the year, James, undaunted, put to sea, and met his queen in Norway, where the marriage ceremony was performed again by the Rev. David Lindsay, of Leith, in the cathedral of St. Halvard at Christiania, and not at Upsala. THE ARMS moved to Inchkeith and the Castle of Inchgarvie, and the ship, which by leaks seemed likely to sink at her anchors, was emptied of her goods, which were stored in the VOW~S,” or vaults, of St. Colm. In 1584 Leith was appointed the principal market for herrings and other fish in the Firth of Forth. Five years subsequent to this we find that the despotic magistrates of Edinburgh summoned nearly one half of their Leith vassals to hear themselves prohibited from the exercise of their various trades and from choosing their deacons in all time coming. They had previously thrust two unfortunate shoemakers into prison, one forprefending that he was elected deacon of the Leith Incorporation of the craft, and the other for acting as his officer; and we are told that, notwithstanding the remon- *strances of the operatives, no attention was paid to their statements, and “ they were proceeded against as a parcel of insolent and contumacious rascals ;” and it was not until 1734 that the Incorporated OF LEIlH. - , as some assert. After remaining for some months in Denmark, the royal pair on the 6th of May, landed at the pier of Leith (where the King’s Work had been prepared for their reception), amid the booming of cannon, and the discharge of a mighty Latin oration from Mr. James Elphinstone. It is remarkable that James, whose squadron came to anchor in the roads on the 1st of May, did not land at once, as he had been sorely beset by the incantations of witches during his voyage ; and it is alleged that the latter had declared “ he would never have come safely from the sea had not his faith prevailed over their cantrips.” They were more successful, however, with a large boat coming from Burntisland to Leith, containing a number of gifts for the young queen, and which they contrived to sink amid a storm, raised by the remarkable agency of a chrisfened cat, when all on board perished. In 1595 James wrote a letter at Holyrood, addressed to “ the Bailyies of Lethe,” at the instance of William Henryson, Constable Depute of Scotland, interdicting them from holding courts to consider actions of slaughter, mulctation, drawing blood, or turbulence. (Spald. Club Miscell.) In the following year, by a letter of gift under the Privy Seal, .he empowered the Corporation of Edinburgh to levy a certain tax during a certain period towards supporting and repairing the bulwark pier and port of Leith ; and in a charter of Niladamus, ... OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH, [Leith. 1596-7. In 1578 an Act of Parliament was passed to prevent “ the taking away ...

Vol. 5  p. 180 (Rel. 0.33)

330 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cunie. East of St. Katherine’s is a rising ground now called Grace Mount, and of old the Priest’s Hill, which probably. had some connection with the ,well and chapel. The Cromwellians, who destroyed the former, were a portion of 16,000 men, who were encamped on the adjacent Galachlaw Hill, in 1650, shortly before their leader fell back on his retreat to Dunbar. At the period of the Reformation the chapelry of Niddrie, with the revenues thereof, was attached to Liberton Church. Its founders, the Wauchopes of Niddrie, have had a seat in the parish for more than 500 years, and are perhaps the oldest family in Midlothian. Gilbert Wauchope of Niddrie was a distinguished member of the Reformation Parliament in 1560. On the 27th of December, 1591, Archibald Wauchope, of Niddrie, together with the Earl of Bothwell, Douglas of Spott, and others, made a raid on Holyrood, attempting the life of James VI., and after much firing of pistols and muskets were repulsed, according to Moyses’ Memoirs, for which offence Patrick Crombie of Carrubber and fifteen others were forfeited by Parliament. Sir John Wauchope of Niddrie is mentioned by Guthry in his “ Memoirs,” as a zealous Covenanter. Niddrie House, a mile north of Edmonstone House, is partly an ancient baronial fortalice and partly a handsome modern mansion. The holly hedges here are thirty feet high, and there is a sycamore nineteen feet in circumference. In 1718 John Wauchope of Niddrie, Marischal, was slain in Catalonia. He and his brother were generals of. Spanish infantry, and the latter was governor of the town and fortress of Cagliari in Sardinia. We find the name of his regiment in the following obituary in I 7 I g :-“Died in Sicily, of fever, in the camp of Randazzo, Andrew, son of Sir George Seton of Garleton-suln-lieutenant in Irlandas Regiment, late Wauchope’s.” (Salmon’s “Chronology.”) In 1718 one of the same family was at the seabattle of Passaro, captain of the San Francisco Arreres of twenty-two guns and one hundred men. Lediard’s History calls him simply “Wacup, a Scotchman.” The other chapel referred to gives its name to the mansion and estate of St. Katherine’s, once the residence of Sir William Rae, Bart. of Eskgrove, the friend of Sir Walter Scott, who apostrophises him as his “dear loved Rae,” in the introduction to the fourth canto of Marmion, and who, with Skene, Mackenzie, and others of the Old Edinburgh Light Horse, including Scott, formed themselves into a little semi-military club, the meetings of which were held at their family supper-tables in rotation. He was the third baronet of his family, and was appointed Lord Advocate in 1819, on the promotion of Lord Meadowbank, and held the office till the end of 1830. He was again Lord Advocate during Sir Robert Peel’s administration in 1835, and was M.P. for Bute. A little way to the south is a place called the Kaimes, which indicates the site of an ancient camp. We have already, in other places, referred to Mr. Clement Little, of Upper Liberton, a founder of the College Library, by a bequest of books thereto in 1580. Two years before that he appeared as procurator for the Abbot of Kilwinning, in a dispute between him and the Earl of Egliiiton (Priv. Coun. Reg). Lord Fountainhall records, under date May zznd, 1685, that the Lady of Little of Liberton, an active dame in the cause of the Covenant, was imprisoned for harbouring certain recusants, but that ‘ I on his entering into prison for her she was liberate.’’ CHAPTER XXXIX. THE ENVIRONS OF EPINBURGH (rontinued). Cume-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-% Old Church andTemple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-Scott of Malleny-James Anderson, LL.D.-“ Camp Meg ” and her Story. CURRIE, in many respects, is one of the most interesting places in the vicinity of Edinburgh. The parish is in extent about five or six miles in every direction, though in one quarter it measures nine miles from east to west.. One-third of the *hole district is hill and moorland. Freestone abounds in a quarry, from which many of the houses in the New Town have been built; and there is, besides, plenty of ironstone, and a small vein of copper. A Though antiquaries have endeavoured to connect its name with the Romrlns, as CO&, it is most probably dCrived from the Celtic Corrie, signifying a hollow or glen, which is very descriptive of the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cunie. East of St. Katherine’s is a rising ground now called Grace Mount, and of ...

Vol. 6  p. 330 (Rel. 0.32)

330 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cunie. East of St. Katherine’s is a rising ground now called Grace Mount, and of old the Priest’s Hill, which probably. had some connection with the ,well and chapel. The Cromwellians, who destroyed the former, were a portion of 16,000 men, who were encamped on the adjacent Galachlaw Hill, in 1650, shortly before their leader fell back on his retreat to Dunbar. At the period of the Reformation the chapelry of Niddrie, with the revenues thereof, was attached to Liberton Church. Its founders, the Wauchopes of Niddrie, have had a seat in the parish for more than 500 years, and are perhaps the oldest family in Midlothian. Gilbert Wauchope of Niddrie was a distinguished member of the Reformation Parliament in 1560. On the 27th of December, 1591, Archibald Wauchope, of Niddrie, together with the Earl of Bothwell, Douglas of Spott, and others, made a raid on Holyrood, attempting the life of James VI., and after much firing of pistols and muskets were repulsed, according to Moyses’ Memoirs, for which offence Patrick Crombie of Carrubber and fifteen others were forfeited by Parliament. Sir John Wauchope of Niddrie is mentioned by Guthry in his “ Memoirs,” as a zealous Covenanter. Niddrie House, a mile north of Edmonstone House, is partly an ancient baronial fortalice and partly a handsome modern mansion. The holly hedges here are thirty feet high, and there is a sycamore nineteen feet in circumference. In 1718 John Wauchope of Niddrie, Marischal, was slain in Catalonia. He and his brother were generals of. Spanish infantry, and the latter was governor of the town and fortress of Cagliari in Sardinia. We find the name of his regiment in the following obituary in I 7 I g :-“Died in Sicily, of fever, in the camp of Randazzo, Andrew, son of Sir George Seton of Garleton-suln-lieutenant in Irlandas Regiment, late Wauchope’s.” (Salmon’s “Chronology.”) In 1718 one of the same family was at the seabattle of Passaro, captain of the San Francisco Arreres of twenty-two guns and one hundred men. Lediard’s History calls him simply “Wacup, a Scotchman.” The other chapel referred to gives its name to the mansion and estate of St. Katherine’s, once the residence of Sir William Rae, Bart. of Eskgrove, the friend of Sir Walter Scott, who apostrophises him as his “dear loved Rae,” in the introduction to the fourth canto of Marmion, and who, with Skene, Mackenzie, and others of the Old Edinburgh Light Horse, including Scott, formed themselves into a little semi-military club, the meetings of which were held at their family supper-tables in rotation. He was the third baronet of his family, and was appointed Lord Advocate in 1819, on the promotion of Lord Meadowbank, and held the office till the end of 1830. He was again Lord Advocate during Sir Robert Peel’s administration in 1835, and was M.P. for Bute. A little way to the south is a place called the Kaimes, which indicates the site of an ancient camp. We have already, in other places, referred to Mr. Clement Little, of Upper Liberton, a founder of the College Library, by a bequest of books thereto in 1580. Two years before that he appeared as procurator for the Abbot of Kilwinning, in a dispute between him and the Earl of Egliiiton (Priv. Coun. Reg). Lord Fountainhall records, under date May zznd, 1685, that the Lady of Little of Liberton, an active dame in the cause of the Covenant, was imprisoned for harbouring certain recusants, but that ‘ I on his entering into prison for her she was liberate.’’ CHAPTER XXXIX. THE ENVIRONS OF EPINBURGH (rontinued). Cume-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-% Old Church andTemple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-Scott of Malleny-James Anderson, LL.D.-“ Camp Meg ” and her Story. CURRIE, in many respects, is one of the most interesting places in the vicinity of Edinburgh. The parish is in extent about five or six miles in every direction, though in one quarter it measures nine miles from east to west.. One-third of the *hole district is hill and moorland. Freestone abounds in a quarry, from which many of the houses in the New Town have been built; and there is, besides, plenty of ironstone, and a small vein of copper. A Though antiquaries have endeavoured to connect its name with the Romrlns, as CO&, it is most probably dCrived from the Celtic Corrie, signifying a hollow or glen, which is very descriptive of the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cunie. East of St. Katherine’s is a rising ground now called Grace Mount, and of ...

Vol. 6  p. 329 (Rel. 0.32)

Newhaven.] “OUR LADY’S PORT OF GRACE.” 295 1815 it was changed to a revolving light, as at present. Its elevation is 235 feet above the waterline. On the 1st October, 1835, thereflecting light was discontinued, and a dioptric light was put in its place, It consists of seven annular lenses, which circulate round a great lamp having three concentric wicks and produce brilliant flashes once in every minute, and of five rows of curved mirrors, which, being fixed, serve to prolong the duration of the flashes from the lenses. The appearance of the new light does not, therefore, differ materially from that of the old one-save that the flashes which recur at the same periods, are considerably more brilliant, and of shorter duration. In clear weather the light is not totally eclipsed between the flashes at a distance of four or five miles, and it is visible at the distance of eighteen nautical miles. . The expense of this lighthouse in 1839 was The old light of 1803~ with all its apparatus, was purchased by the Government of Newfoundland, and is still in use on Cape Spear, near the Narrows of St. John. A467 14s. sd. C H A P T E R XXV. NEWHAVEN. Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.5 Dockyard -Hi Gift or Newhaven to Edinburgh-The Gnat Mick&Embarkation of Mary of G b Works at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The L i V k u n t Newhaven-The Feud with Preston-The Sea Fencibles- Chain Pier-Dr. Fairbairn-The Fishwives-Superstitions. IT may not be uninteresting to quote, the ideas entertained of Edinburgh by an English visitor in the first years of the nineteenth century, as he was -in his time-considered a typical John Bull, I now come back to this delightful and beautiful city,” wrote William Cobbett in his RegWr. I thought Bristol, taking in its heights and Clifton with its rocks and river, was the finest city in the world; but it is nothing to Edinburgh, with its castle, its hills, its pretty little seaport detached from it, its vale of rich land lying all around, its lofty hills in the background, its views across the Firth. I think little of its streets and its rows of fine houses, though all built of stone, and though everything in London and Bath is begary to these ; I thing nothing of Holyrood House ; but I think a great deal of the fine and well-ordered streets of shops ; of the regularity which you perceive everywhere in the management of business ; and I think still more of the absence of that foppishness and that affectation of carelessness and insolent assumption of superiority in almost all the young men you meet in the fashionable parts of the great towns in England. I was not disappointed, for I expected to find Edinburgh the finest city in the kingdom. . . . The people, however, still exceed the place; here all is civility; you do not meet with rudeness, or with the want of disposition to oblige, even in the persons of the lowest state of life. A fiend took me round the environs of the city ; he had a turnpike ticket, received at the first gate, which cleared five or six gates. It was sufficient for him to tell the gate-keepers that he had it. When I saw that, I said to myself, ‘Nota bene: gate keepers take people’s wordin Scotland,’ a thing I have not seen before since I left Long Island.” Now its seaport is no longer (‘ detached,” but has become an integral part of Edinburgh, and all the vale of rich land” between it and the Forth to Granton, Trinity, and Newhaven, is covered by a network of fine roads and avenues, bordered by handsome villas. Newhaven now conjoined to Leith, and long deemed only a considerable fishing village, lies two miles north of Princes Street, and yet consists chiefly of the ancient village \;hich is situated, quoad civilia, in the parish of North Leith, and whose inhabitants are still noted as a distinct community, rarely intermarrying with any other class. The male inhabitants are almost entirely fishermen, and the women are employed in selling the produce of their husbands’ industry in the streets of the city and suburbs. Intermarriage seems to produce among them a peculiar cast of countenance and physical constitution. The women, inured to outdoor daily labour in all weathers, are robust, active, and remarkable for their florid complexions, healthy figures, and regular features, as for the singularity of their costume. In the fifteenth century this village was designated “ Our Lady’s Port of Grace,” from a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. James, some portions of which still exist in the ancient or unused burial-ground of the centre of the village. The nearly entire west gable, with a square window in it, can still be seen in the Vennel, a narrow ... “OUR LADY’S PORT OF GRACE.” 295 1815 it was changed to a revolving light, as at present. Its ...

Vol. 6  p. 295 (Rel. 0.32)

the following day, accompanied by twelve armed ‘ men, disguised as seamen, with hoods over their helmets, he appeared at the Castle gates, where they contrived to overturn their casks and hampers, so as to prevent the barriers being closed by the guards and warders, who were instantly slain. At a given signal-the shrill blast of a bugle-horn- Douglas and his companions, with their war-cry, rushed from a place of concealment close by. Sir Richard de Limoisin, the governor, made a bitter resistance, but was overpowered in the end, and his garrison became the prisoners of David II., who returned from France in the following month, accompanied by his queen Johanna; and by that time not an Englishman was left in Scotland. But miserable was the fate of Bullock. By order of a Sir David Berkeley he was thrown into the castle of Lochindorb, in Morayshire, and deliberately starved to death. On this a Scottish historian remarks, “ It is an ancient saying, that neither the powekful, nor the valiant, nor the wise, long flourish in Scotland, since envy obtaineth the mastery of them all.” When, a few years afterwards, the unfortunate battle of Durham ended in the defeat of the Scots, and left their king a prisoner of war, we find in the treaty for his ransom, the merchants of Edinburgh, together with those of Perth, Aberdeen, atid Dundee, binding themselves to see it paid. In 1357 a Parliament was held at Edinburgh for its final adjustment, when the Regent Robert (afterwards Robert 11.) presided ; in addition to the clergy and nobles, there were present delegates from seventeen burghs, and among these Edinburgh In 1365 we find a four years’ truce with England, signed at London on the 20th May, and in the Castle on the 12th of June; and another for I appeared at the head for thejrst time. fourteen years, dated at the Castle 28th October, 1371- So often had the storm of war desolated its towers, that the Castle of Edinburgh (which became David’s favourite residence after his return from England ‘in 1357) was found to require extensive repairs, and to these the king devoted himself. On the cliff to the northward he built “David’s Tower,” an edifice of great height and strength, and therein he died on the zznd February, 1371, and was buried before the high altar at Holyrood. The last of the direct line of Brucea name inseparably connected with the military glory and independence of Scotland-David was a monarch who, in happier times, would have done much to elevate his people. The years of his captivity in England he beguiled with his pencil, and in a vault of Nottingham Castle “he left behind hini,” says Abercrornbie, in his “ Martial Achievements,” I‘ the whole story of our Saviour’s Passion, curiously engraven on the rock with his own hands. For this, says one, that castle became as famous as formerly it had been for Mortimer’s hole.” It was during bis reign that, by the military ingenuity of John Earl of Carrick and four other knights of skill, the Castle was so well fortified, that, with a proper garrison, the Duke of Rothesay was able to resist the utmost efforts of Henry IV., when he besieged it for several weeks in 1400. The Castle had been conferred as a free gift upon Earl John by his father King Robert, and in consequence of the sufferings endured by the inhabitants when the city was burned by the English, under Richard II., he by charter empowered the citizens to build houses within the fortress, free of fees to the constable, on the simple understanding that they were persons of good fame. ‘ . - CHAPTER IV. CASTLE OF EDINBURGH-(continucd). Progress of the Cuy-Ambassador of Charles VI.- Edinburgh burned-Henry IV. batAed-Albany’s Prophecy-Laws regarding the Building of House-Sumptuary Laws, 1457-Murder of James I.-Coronation of James 11.-Court Intrigues-Lord Chancellor Crichton-Arrogance of the Earl of Douglas-~-Faction Wars-The Castle Besieged-“ The Black DinneF”-Edinburgh walled-Its Strength-Bale-fires. THE chief characteristic of the infant city now was that of a frontier town, ever on the watch to take arms against an invader, and resolute to resist him. Walsingham speaks of it as a village ; and in 1385 its population is supposed to have barely exceeded 2,oooj yet Froissart called it the Pans of Scotland, though its central street presented but a meagre line of thatched or stane-dated houses, few of which were more than twenty feet in height. Froissart numbers them at 4,000, which would give a greater population than has been alleged. With the accession of Robert 11.-the first of the ... following day, accompanied by twelve armed ‘ men, disguised as seamen, with hoods over their helmets, he ...

Vol. 1  p. 26 (Rel. 0.31)

36 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canongate 4‘ History of Music j ” Dr. Gregory ; David Xllan ; Lord Cromarty; and many others who have left $heir ‘‘ footprints on the sands of time.” There, too, is the grave of the ill-fated Fergusson the poet, above which is the tombstone placed at the order of Robert Burns by Gowans, a marble- -cutter in the Abbey Hill, “to remain for ever sacred to the memory of him whose name it bears,” with the inscription Bums penned :- “ HERE LIES ROBERT FERGUSSON. Born Sept. sth, 1751. Died October 16th, 1774. No sculptured marble here, nor pompous lay, This simple stone directs pale Scotia’s way No stoned urn nor animated bust ; To pour her sorrows o’er her poet’s dust.” Here, on the 16th of Tune, , - “ Henry Prentice. Died . . . . Be not curious to know how I lived ; But rather how yourself should die.” He was, however, eventually interred at Restalrig. At least three tenements of three storeys each would seem to have occupied the site of the church. One of the picturesque relics of the past in Edinburgh is the old Canongate Tolbooth, with its sombre tower and spire, Scoto-French corbelled turrets, huge projecting clock, dark-mouthed archway, its moulded windows, and many sculptured stones. Above the arch is the inscription- S. L. B. PATRIA ET POSTERIS 1591 ; and in a niche are the usual insignia of 1821, Sir Walter Scott att the burgh, the stag’s head and- cross,, the funeral of John Ballantyne, with the motto SIC ITUR AD ASTRA, while .and displayed considerable emo- the appropriate niotto ESTO FIDUS surtion. “He cast his eyes along mounts the inner doorway to the court- -the overhanging line of the Calton house. At the south-east comer is the Hill, with its gleaming walls and old shaft of the cross and pillory, near towers, and then turning to the the entrance to the police-station. .grave again, ‘I feel,’ he whispered it is a fine example of the fices of the reign of Janies VI. In the tower are two bells, in Lockhart’s ear, ‘I feel as if there would be less sun- -shine for me from this day one inscribed SOLI DEO HONOR ET forth.’ 2y GLORIA, 1608, and a larger one, In May 1880 there was cast in 1796. Between the stately erected here a monument windows of the Council .of rose-coloured granite, Hall is a pediment sur- Wenty-six feet high, by Mr. mounted by a great thistle Ford of the Holyroad Glass and the legend :- -Works, ‘‘ In memory of the J. R 6. JUSTITIA ET PIETAS burgh Castle, situated in , FERGUSSON’S GRAVE. Herein the magistrates soldiers who died in Edin- VALIDE SUNT PRINCIPIS ABCES. .the Parish of Canongate, interred here from the year 1692 to 1880.” It k very ornate, has on its base sculptured trophies, -and was inaugurated in presence of General Hope, his staff, and the 71st Highlanders. Prior to its erection the spot where so many soldiers have .found their last home was only a large square patch covered by grass. In the ‘‘ Domestic Annals ” we find recorded the .death, in 1788, of Henry Prentice, by whom the field culture of the potato was first introduced into. the county of Edinburgh, in 1746. He had made .a. little money as a travelling merchant, was an .eccentric character, and in 1784 sunk A140 with the managers of the Canongate poorhouse for a weekly subsistence. He had his coffin made, with the date of his birth thereon, 1703, and long bad his gravestone conspicuously placed in the burgh churchyard, inscribed thus :- who came as successors of the abbots of Holyrood as over-lords of the burgh, held u-eekly courts for the punishment of offenders, the adjustment of small debts, and the affairs of the little municipality. That the building is older than any of the dates upon it, or that it had apredecessor, the following extracts from the ‘‘ Burgh Records ” attest :- ‘‘ Vndecimo decembris, an : 1567. “The quhilk day it was concludit, be the Baillies and Counsall, to pursew quhatsomever person that is known and brutit wt the breking of the Tolbooth of this burcht, the tyme of the furth letting of Janet Robertsoun, being werdit within the samyn, &c.“ In 1572 the following item occurs :- “TO sax pynonis (pioneers?) att the Baillies *command for taking doun of the lintel-stone of the Ruld Tolbooth window-iij-s vi-d.” In 1654 several Scottish prisoners of war, con ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canongate 4‘ History of Music j ” Dr. Gregory ; David Xllan ; Lord Cromarty; and ...

Vol. 3  p. 30 (Rel. 0.31)

ran’s family were too rich to be bribed, and clamoured that they would have blood for blood. On the other hand, “friends threatened death to a l l the people of Edinburgh if they did.the child any harm, saying they were not wise who meddled with scholars, especially gentlemen’s sons,” and Lord Sinclair, as chief of the family to which the young culprit belonged, moved boldly in his behalf, and procured the intercession of King James with the magistrates, and in the end all the accused got free, including the slayer of the Bailie, who lived to become Sir William Sinclair of hfey, in 1631, and the husband of Catharine ROSS, of Balnagowan, and from them the present Earls of Caithness are descended. When the brother of the Queen Consort, the Duke of Holstein, visited Edinburgh in March, t593, and as Moyse tells us, “was received and welcomed very gladly by Her Majesty, and used every way like a prince,” after sundry entertainments at Holyrood, Ravensheugh, and elsewhere, a grand banquet was given him in the house of the late Bailie Macmorran by the city of Edmburgh. The King and Queen were present, “ with great solemnity and merriness,” according to Birrel. On the 3rd of June the Duke embarked at Leith, under a salute of sixty pieces of cannon from the bulwarks, and departed with his gifts, to Wit-1,ooo five-pound pieces and 1,000 crowns, a hat and string valued at IZ,OOO pounds (Scots?), and many rich chains and jewels. The Bailie’s initials, I. M., are on the pediments that ornament his house, which after passing through several generations of his surname, became the residence of Sir John Clerk of Penicuik. “By him,” says Wilson, “it was sold to Sir Roderick Mackenzie, of Preston Hall, appointed tr senator of the College of Justice in 1702, who resided in the upper part of the house at the same time that Sir John Mackenzie Lord Royston, third son of the celebrated Earl of Cromarty, one of the wittiest and most gifted men of his time, occupied the low flat. Here, in all probability, his witty and eccentric daughter Anne was born and brought up. This lady, who married Sir William Dick of Prestonfield, carried her humorous pranks to an excess scarcely conceivable in our decorous days j sallying out occasionally in search of adventures, like some of the maids of honour of Charles II.’s Court, dressed in male attire, with. her maid for a squire. She seems to have possessed more wit than discretion.” Riddell’s Close was of old an eminently aristocratic quarter. Lower down the street Fisher‘s Close adjoined it, and therein stood, till 1835, the residence of the ducal house of Buccleuch, which was demolished in that year to make way for Victoria Terrace. On the east side of an open court, beyond the Roman Eagle Hall-a beautiful specimen of an ancient saloon-stood the mansion of William Little of Craigmillar (bearing the date 1570)~ whose brother Clement was the founder of the university library, for in 1580, when commissary of the city, he bequeathed “to Edinburgh and the Kirk of God,” all his books, 300 volumes in number. These were chiefly theologicaL works, and were transferred by the town council td the university. Clement Little was not without having a share in the troubles of those days, and on the 28th of April, 1572, with others, he was proclaimed at the market cross, and deprived of his office, for rebellion against Queen Mary ; but the proclamation failed to be put in force. His son was Provost of the city in 1591. Clement and William Little were buried in the Greyfriars’ churchyard, where a great-grandson of the latter erected a tomb to their memory in 1683.~ Little’s Close appears as Lord Cullen’s in Edgar’s map of 1742, so there had also resided that famous lawyer and judge, Sir Francis Grant of Cullen, who joined the Revolution party in 1688, who distinguished himself in the Convention of 1689 by his speech in favour of confemng the cram of Scotland on William and Mary of Orange, and thus swayed the destinies of the nation. He was raised to the bench in 1709. His friend Wodrow has recorded the closing scene of his active life in this old alley, on the 16th of March, 1726. “Brother,” said the old revolutionist, to one who informed him that his illness was mortal, “you have brought me the best news ever I heard ! ” ‘‘ And,” adds old Robert Wodrow, “that day when he died was without a czoud.” _- Menteth’s “‘Iheatrc of Mortality.’’ Eh, 1704. ... family were too rich to be bribed, and clamoured that they would have blood for blood. On the other hand, ...

Vol. 1  p. 111 (Rel. 0.31)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canonmills. 86 modation than external display, and yet is not unsuited to the architecturally opulent district in its neighbourhood. The society which founded it had, by proprietary shares of E50 each, a capital of L ~ z , g o o , capable of being augmented to AI 6,000. Though similar in scope to the High School, it was at first more aristocratic in its plan or princiciples, which for a time rendered it less accessible to children of the middle classes, and has a longer period of study, and larger fees. There are a rector, masters for classics, French, and German, writing, mathematics, and English literature, and every other necessary branch. The Academy was incorporated by a royal charter from George IV., and is under the superintendence of a board of fifteen directors, three of whom are elected annually from the body of subscribers. The complete course of instruction given extends over seven years. The institution, which possesses a handsome public hall, a library, spacious class-rooms, and a large enclosed play-ground, is divided into two schools-the classical, adapted for boys destined for the learned professions, or who desire to possess a thorough classical training ; and the modem, intended for such as mean to take civil or military service, or enter on mercantile pursuits. In addition to special professional subjects of study, the complete course embraces every branch of knowledge now recognised as necessary for a liberal education. Though the Academy is little more than half; century old, yet so admirable has been the system pursued here, and so able have been the teachers in every department, that it has sent forth several of the most eminent men of the present day. Among them we may enumerate Dr. A. Campbell Tait, Archbishop of Canterbury ; Bishop Anderson of Rupert’s Land ; Sir Colin Blackburn, Justice of the Queen’s Bench ; Professor Edmonstone Aytoun; the late Earl of Fife; the Right Hon. Mountstuart E. Grant-Duff, M.P. for Elgin, and afterwards Governor of Madras. Among those who instituted this Academy in 1832 were Sir Walter Scott, Lord Cockburn, Skene of Rubislaw, Sir Robert Dundas, Bart., of Beechwood, and many other citizens of distinction. CHAPTER IX. CANONMILLS AND INVERLEITH. Canonmills-The Loch-Riots of &+-The Gymnasium-Tanfield Hall-German Church-Zmlogical Gardens-Powder Hall-Rosehank Cemetery-Red Rraes-The Crawfords of Jordanhill-Bonnington-BEhop Keith-The Sugar Refinery--Pilrig-The Balfour Family- Inverleith-Ancient Proprietors-The Tonri-The RocheidAld Lady Inverleith-General Crocket-Royal Botanical Gardens-Mr. James MacNab. THE ancient village of Canonmills lies within the old Barony of Broughton, and owes its origin to the same source as the Burgh of the Canoagate, having been founded by the Augustine canons of Holyrood, no doubt for the use of their vassals in Broughton and adjacent possessions ; but King David I. built for them, and the use of the inhabitants, a mill, the nucleus of the future village, which still retains marks of its very early origin, though rapidly being absorbed or surrounded by medern improvements. This mill is supposed to have been the massive and enormously buttressed edifice of which Wilson has preserved a view, at the foot ofthe brae, near Heriot’s Hill. It stood on the south side of the Water of Leith, being driven by a lade diverted from the former. By the agreement between the city and the directors of Heriot’s Hospital, when the mills were partly disposed of to the former, the city was “bound not to prejudice the mills, but to allow those resident in the Barony to repair to them, and grind thereat, according to use and wont, and to help them to ane thirlage, so far as they can, and the same remain in their possession.” The Incorporation of Bakers in the Canongate were ‘‘ thirled ” thither-that is, compelled to have their corn ground there, or pay a certain sum. About the lower end of the hollow, overlooked by the Royal Crescent now, there lay for ages the Canonmills Loch, where the coot and water-hen built their nests in the sedges, as at the North Loch ’ and Duddingston ; it was a fair-sued sheet of water, ’ the last portion of which was only drained recently, or shortly before the Gymnasium was formed. In 1682 there was a case before the Privy Council, when Alexander Hunter, tacksman of the Canonmills, was pursued by Peter de Bruis for demolishing a paper-mill he had erected there for the manufacture of playing-cards, of which he had a gift from the Council on 20th December, 1681, “ strictly prohibiting the importation of any such cards,” and allowing him a most exorbitant powm ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canonmills. 86 modation than external display, and yet is not unsuited to the ...

Vol. 5  p. 86 (Rel. 0.31)

[PleaMnce. 382 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. thoroughfare named Chambers Street, to which the school was transferred in the winter of 1873-4, The new edifice cost ~ 3 , 0 0 0 , but the accommodation is more suitable and ample than that of the old. Though for many years the directors adhered to their original plan of confining the subjects of instruction to Chemistry, Natural Philosophy, and Mathematics, in later years, at the request of a number of students, the range of education was greatly enlarged. Hence, classes for English Language and Literature were instituted in 1837 ; for History and Economic Science in 1877 ; for Physiology in 1863 ; for French in 1843 ; German in 1866 ; Latin in 1874 ; Botany in 1870 ; Pitman’s Short-hand in 1873 ; Greek in 1875 j Geology in 1872 ; Biology, Free-hand Drawing, and the Theory of Music, in 1877. In April, 1879, the institution was handed over to the Heriot Trust, as a People’s. College, at a meeting presided over by the Hon.. Lord Shand, a patron of the school. CHAPTER XLIX. THE PLEASANCE AND ST. LEONARDS. The Convent of St. Mary-Friends’ Buria! Place-Old Chirurgeons’ Hall-Surgeon Square-“ Hamilton’s Folly ”-The Gibbet-Chapel an& Hospital of St. Leonard-Davie Deans’ Cottage-“ The Innocent Railway ”-First Public Dispensary. AT a period subsequent to the panic after Flodden there was built across the junction of St. Mary’s Wynd with the Pleasance, parallel with the south back of the Canongate, an arched barrier named St. Mary’s Port. South of this, sixty yards from the south-east angle of the city wall and near the foot of the present Roxburgh Street, stood the convent of St. Mary) which must have been a branch of the Franciscan House of “ S. Maria di Campagni,” so much patronised by Pope Urban II., in the Parmese city of Placentia-as the latter name was given to the foundation in Edinburgh, long since corrupted into Pleasance, though the place was of old called Dearenough. It is unknown by whom or when it was founded, and nothing of it now remains save a fine piece of alabaster carving, representing our Saviour brought before the Jewish high-priest, which was discovered among its ruins, and presented to the Antiquarian Museum in 1781. The name of Pleasance is borne by the narrow, quaint, and straggling street southward till it joins the other ancient suburb of St. Leonard, of which it seems to have formed a portion, as proved by a charter of Charles I. confirming the magistrates in the superiority of “ the town of St. Leonard.” In it are many houses, or the basements thereof, that date from the early part of the sixteenth century. St. John’s Hill and this now absorbed village occupy the long ridge that overlooks the valley at the base of the Craigs, and the whole of which seems to have been the ecclesiastical property in earlier ages of several foundations, all of which were subject to the Abbots of Holyrood. On the east side of the street is still a great quadrangular edifice, called Bell’s Brewery (long famous for its ale), which is shown as such in Edgar‘s Map in 1765, and was nearly consumed by fire in 1794 ; and near it is still the Friends’ meeting- house and burial-ground, in which are interred the Millars of Craigantinie, the Hereditary Master Gardeners to the king. This sect, whose members underwent much persecution in the early part 06 the eighteenth century, and were often arrested by the town guard for preaching in the streets, and thrust into the Tolbooth, had their first place of worship in Peebles Wynd, where it was built in 1730. “ Though it was roofed,” says the Cmranf for September, “ there is as yet no window in it; but some merrily observe these people have light within.” On the west side of the Pleasance, and immediately within the south-east angle of the city wall referred to, stood the old Chirurgeons’ Hall, in the High School yards. The surgeons and barbers were formed into a corporation by the town-council on the 1st of July, 1505 j under the seal of cause, or charter, certain rules were prescribed for the good order of this fraternity. On the 13th of October in the following year James V. ratified this charter; and Queen Mary, says Arnot, “in! consideration of the great attendance required of surgeons upon their patients, granted them an ex. emption from serving upon juries, and from watch ing and warding within the city of Edinburgh, privileges which were afterwards confirmed by Parliament.” On the 25th of February, 1657, the surgeons and: apothecaries were, at their request, united into one community. This was ratified by Parliament, and from that time the corporation ceasd ... 382 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. thoroughfare named Chambers Street, to which the school was transferred in ...

Vol. 2  p. 382 (Rel. 0.31)

bosom of Belhaven, the Earl Marischal, after having opposed the Union in all its stages, refused to be present at this degrading ceremony, and was represented by his proxy, Wilson, the Clerk of Session, who took a long protest descriptive of the regalia, and declaring that they should remain within the said crown-room, and -never be removed from it without due intimation being made to the Earl Marischal. A copy of this protest, beautifully illuminated, was then deposited with the regalia, a linen cloth was spread over the whole, and the great oak chest was secured by three ponderous locks; and there for a hundred and ten years, amid silence, obscurity, and dust, lay the crown that had sparkled on the brows of Bruce, on those of the gallant Jameses, and on Mary’s auburn hair -the symbols of Scotland‘s elder days, for which so many myriads of the loyal, the brave, and the noble, had laid down their lives on the battle-field -neglected and forgotten.” Just four months after this obnoxious ceremony, and while the spirit of antagonism to it rose high in the land, a gentleman, with only thirty men, undertook to surprise the fortress, which had in it now a party of but thirty-five British soldiers, to guard the equivalent money, ~400,000, and a great quantity of Scottish specie, which had been called in to be coined anew. In the memoirs of Kerr of Kerrsland we are told that the leader of this projected surprise was to appear with his thirty followers, all well armed, at noon, on the esplanade, which at that hour was the chief lounge of gay and fashionable people. Among these they were to mingle, but drawing as near to the barrier gate as possible. While affecting to inquire for a friend in the Castle, the leader was to shoot the sentinel ; the report of his pistol was to he the signal on which his men were to draw their swords, and secure the bridge, when a hundred men who were to be concealed in a cellar near were to join them, tear down the Union Jack, and hoist the Colours of James VIII. in its place. The originator of this daring scheme -whose name never transpired-having commu. nicated it to the well-known intriguer, Kerr of Kerrsland, while advising him to defer it till the chevalier, then expected, was off the coast, he secretly gave information to the Government, which, Burnbank was a very debauched character, who is frequently mentioned in Penicuick‘s satirical poems, to put it in a state of defence ; but the great magazine of arms, the cannon, stores, and 495 barrels of powder, which had been placed there in 1706, had all been removed to England. “But,” says a writer, this was only in the spirit of centralisation, which has since been brought to such perfection.” In 1708, before the departure of the fleet of Admiral de Fourbin with that expedition which the appearance of Byng’s squadron caused to fail, a plan of the Castle had been laid, at Versailles, before a board of experienced engineer officers, who unanimously concluded that, with his troops, cannon, and mortars, M. de Gace would carry the place in a few hours. A false attack was to be made on the westward, while three battalions were to storm the outworks on the east, work their way under the half-moon, and carry the citadel. Two Protestant bishops were then to have crowned the prince in St. Giles’s church as James VIII. ‘I The equivalent from England being there,” says an officer of the expedition, “would have been a great supply to us for raising men (having about 400 officers with us who had served in the wars in Italy), and above 100 chests in money.” Had M. de Gace actually appeared before the fortress, its capture would not have cost him much trouble, as Kerrsland tells us that there were not then four rounds of powder in it for the batteries ! On the 14th of December, 1714 the Castle was: by a decree of the Court of Session, deprived of its ancient ecclesiastical right of sanctuary, derived from and retained since the monastic institution of David I., in I 128. Campbell of Burnbank, the storekeeper, being under caption at the instance of a creditor, was arrested by a messenger-at-arms, on which Colonel Stuart, the governor, remembering the right of sanctuary, released Campbell, expelled the official, and closed the barriers. Upon this the creditor petitioned the court, asserting that the right of sanctuary was lost. In reply it was asserted that the Castle was not disfranchised, and that the Castle of Edinburgh, having anciently been rmtrurn pueZZarum, kas originally a religious house, as well as the abbey of Holyrood.” But the Court decided that it had no privilege of sanctuary “to hinder the king’s letters, and ordained Colonel Stuart to deliver Burnbank to a messenger.” organised among the Hays, Keiths, and Murrays, and was employed by “Nicoll Muschat of ill On tidings of this, the Earl of Leven, governor When the seventies exercised by George I. upon ... of Belhaven, the Earl Marischal, after having opposed the Union in all its stages, refused to be present at ...

Vol. 1  p. 67 (Rel. 0.31)

Arlhur‘s Seat.] DR. JOHN BELL 303 sity of Edinburgh that the Medical Society has contributed much to the prosperity and reputation of this school of physic.” Such are still the objects of the Royal Medical Society, which has now, however, quitted its old hall and chambers for newer premises in 7 Melbourne Place. Its staff consists of four presidents, two honorary secretaries, curators of the library and museum, with a treasurer and sub-librarian. Many old citizens of good position had residences in and near the High School yards and Surgeon Square. Among these was Mr. George Sinclair of Ulbster, who married Janet daughter of Lord Strathmore, and who had a house of seven rooms in the yard, which was advertised in the Courant of 1761. His son was the eminent agriculturist, and first baronet of the family. In 1790 a theatre for dissections and an anatomical museum were erected in Surgeon Square by Dr. John Bell, the eminent anatomist, who was born in the city on the 12th May, 1763, and who most successfully applied the science of anatomy to practical surgery-a profession to which, curiously enough, he had from his birth been devoted by his father. The latter,about a month before the child’s birth, had-when in his 59th yea-undergone with successapainful surgicaloperation, and his gratitude led him tovowhe would rear his son John to the cause of medicine for the relief of mankind ; and after leaving the High School the boy was duly apprenticed to Mr. Alexander Wood, surgeon, and soon distinguished himself in chemistry, midwifery, and surgery, and then anatomy, which had been somewhat overlooked by Munro. In the third year after his anatomical theatre had been opened in the now obscure little square, he published his “ Anatomy of the Human Body,” consisting of a description of the action and play of the bones, muscles, and joints. In 1797 appeared the second volume, treating of the heart and arteries. During a brilliant career, he devoted himself with zeal to his profession, till in 1816 he was thrown from his horse, receiving a shock from which his constitution never recovered. CHAPTER XXXVII. AKTHUR’S SEAT AND ITS VICINITY. The Sanctuary-Geology of the Hill-Origin of its Name, and that of the Craigs-The Park Walls, 2554-A Banquet alfrrsc6The Pestilence -A Duel-“The Guttit Haddie”-Mutiny of the Old 78th Regiment-Proposed House on the Summit-bfuschat and his Cairn- Radical Road Formed-May Day-Skeletons found at the Wells 0’ Wearic-Park Improvements-The Hunter’s Bog-Legend of the Hangman’s big-Duddingston-The Church-Rev. J. Thomson-Robert Monteith-The Loch-Its Sw-ans-Skatcrs--The Duddingston Thoro-The Argyle and Abercorn FamilisThe Earl of Mob-Lady Flon. HastingsCnuvin’s Hospica-Parson’s Grecn-St. Anlhonfs Chapel and Well-The Volunteer Renew before the Queen. TAKING up the history of the districts of the city in groups as we have done, we now come to Arthur‘s Seat, which is already well-nigh surrounded, especially on the west and north, by streets and mansions. Towering to the height of 822 feet above the Forth, this hill, with the Craigs of Salisbury, occupies the greater portion of the ancient Sanctuary of Holyrood, which included the royal park (first enclosed and improved from a condition of natural forest by James V. and Queen Mary), St. Anne’s Yard and the Duke’s Walk (both now obliterated), the Hermitage of St. Anthony, the Hunter’s Bog, and the southern parks as far as Duddingston, a tract of five miles in circumference, in which persons were safe from their creditors for twenty-four hours, after which they must take out a Protectim, as it was called, issued by the bailie of the abbey ; the debtors were then at liberty to go where they pleased on Sundays, without molestation j but later legal alterations have rendered retirement to the Sanctuary to a certain extent unnecessary. The recent formation of the Queen’s Drive round the hill, and the introduction of the rifle ranges in the valley to the north of it, have destroyed the wonderful solitude which for ages reigned there, even in the vicinity of a busy and stormy capital. Prior to these changes, and in some parts even yet, the district bore the character which Arnot gave it when he wrote :-“ Seldom are human beings to be met in this lonely vale, or any creature to be seen, but the sheep feeding on the mountains, or the hawks and ravens winging their flight among the rocks’: The aspect of the lionshaped mountain and the outline of the craig are known to every one. There is something certainly grand and awful in the front of mighty slope and broken rock and precipice, which the latter present to the city. Greenstone, which has been upheaved through strata surfaced with sandstone ... Seat.] DR. JOHN BELL 303 sity of Edinburgh that the Medical Society has contributed much to the ...

Vol. 4  p. 303 (Rel. 0.3)

William Arbuthnot, who twice held the chair in 1815, and again in 1821. He was created a baronet by the King in person on the 24th of August, 1822, at the banquet given to his Majesty by the City in the Parliament House; but the patent bore date, 3rd April, 1823. He was a son of Arbuthnor of Haddo, who, like himself, had been an official in the Trustees office. In the interim Kincaid Mackenzie and John Manderston had been Lords Provost-the former in 1817. He was a wine merchant in the Lawnmarket, and while in office had the honour of entertaining at his house in Gayfield Square, first, the Russian Grand Duke Michael, and subsequently Prince Leopold, the future King of the Belgians. Among the most eminent Lords Provost of later years we may refer to Sir James Forrest, Bart., of Comiston, who received his title in rS38. During his reign Queen Victoria paid her first visit to her Scottish metropolis in 1842. He was worthily succeeded in 1843 by the late Adam Black, M.P., the distinguished publisher, In 1848 the Lord Provost was the eminent engraver William Johnstone, who was knighted in 1851, when he was succeeded by Duncan M‘Laren, a wealthy draper in the High Street, afterwards M.P. for the city, and well known as a steady upholder of Scottish interests in the House. On the 7th August, 1860, during the prorostry of Francis Brown Douglas, Advocate, there took place thegreat review before the Queen and Royal Family in Holyrood Park of 22,ooo Scottish Volunteers, ’ merchants perhaps in Scotland, and who had the honour to entertain at his house, 35, George Square, the Prince and Princess of Wales. It was during Mr. Lawson’s reign that, on the 10th of hfarch, 1863, the Prince’s marriage took place, an occasion that gave rise to the great and magnificent illumination of the city-a spectacle the like of which has never been seen, before or since, in this country. His successor, in 1865, was William Chambers, LL. D., the well-known Scottish writer, and member of the eminent publishing firm of W. and R. Chambers, High Street, during whose double tenure of office the work of demolition in connection with the city improvements commenced in the block of buildings between St. Mary’s Wynd and Gullan’s Close, Cannongate, on the 15th June, 1868. A grand review and sham-fight of volunteers and regulars, to the number of 10,000 men, took place in the royal park on the 4th July ; and subsequently the freedom of the City was bestowed upon Lord Napier of Magdala, and upon that far-famed orator, John Bright, M.P. In 1874 James Falshaw was elected to the chair, the j ~ s t Englishman who ever held such an office in Edinburgh. He was created a baronet of the United Kingdom in 1876 on the occasion of the unveiling by the Queen of the Scottish National Memorial of the late Prince Consort in Charlotte Square. He was preceded in the chair by William Law, and succeeded in 1877 by Sir Thomas Jamieson Boyd, the well-known publisher, who was knighted in 1881 on the occasion of the Volunteer Review. CHAPTER XXXV. INFIRMARY STREET AND THE OLD HIGH SCHOOL. Blackfriars Monastq-Its Formdation-Destrpyed by Fire-John Black the Dominican-The Friary Gardens- Lady Yester : her Church and TomLThe Buryiug Ground-The Old High School--The Ancient Grammar School-David Vocat-School Founded-Hercules RdlLlock-Early ClassesThe House Destroyed hy the English-The Bleis-Silver-David Malloch-The Old High Schml-Thomas Ruddiman, Rector-Barclay’s Class-Henry Mackenzii’s Reminiscences-Dr. Addam, Rector : his Grammar-New Edifice Proposcd and Erected-The School-boy Days of Sir Water Scott-Allan Masterton-The School in 1803-Death of Rector Adam-James Pdans, M.A., and A R Canon, RectorsThe New Schwl Projected-The Old one Abandoned. INFIRMARY STREET is now a continuation of Chambers Street to the eastward, and is a thoroughfare of great antiquity, as it led from the north side of the Kirk-of-field, past the Dominican Monastery and &to the Old High School Wynd. In 1647 it was a double street with one long continuous line of houses, occupyiing the whole front- ! Dominican or Blackfriars’ Monastery, founded in age of the future infirmary, and having six long abutments (or short closes) running south towards the south-eastem flank of the City wall. On the exact site of the Old Surgical Hospital there stood for nearly four hundred years a great edifice of which now not a trace remains, the ... Arbuthnot, who twice held the chair in 1815, and again in 1821. He was created a baronet by the King in ...

Vol. 4  p. 284 (Rel. 0.3)

18 secure lock was placed upon it for the same purpose. In 1647 only three open thoroughfares are shown OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. r.,anongate. 1695, he early exhibited great talent with profound legal knowledge, and the mere enumeration of his I but there once stood on its eastern side a stately ald tenement, bearing the date 1614 with this pious legend: I. TAKE. THE. LORD. JESUS. AS. MY. ONLV. ALL. SUFFICIENT. P~RTION. TO. CONTENT. ME. This was cut in massive Roman letters, and the house was adorned by handsome dormer windows and moulded stringcourses; but of the person who dwelt therein no memory remains. And the same must be said of the edifices in the closes called Morocco and Logan’s, and several others. Between these two lies Rae’s Close, .very dark and narrow, leading only to a house with a back green, beyond which can be seen the Calton Hill. In the sixteenth century this alley was the only open thoroughfare to the north between Leith Wynd ’ Kinloch’s mansion and that which adjoined itthe abode of the Earls of Angus-were pulled down about 1760, when New Street was built, “a curious sample of fashionable modem improvement, prior to the bold scheme of the New Town,” and first called Young Street, according to Kincaid. Though sorely faded and decayed, it still presents a series of semi-aristocratic, detached, and not indigent mansions of the plain form peculiar to the time. Among its inhabitants were Lords Kames and Railes, Sir Philip Ainslie, the Lady Betty Anstruther, Christian Rarnsay daughter of the poet, Dr. Young the eminent physician, and others, Henry Home, Lord Kames, who was raised to the bench in 1752, occupied a self-contained to the north-one the Tolbooth Wynd-and all are closed by arched gates in a wall bounding the Canongate on the north, and lying parallel with a long watercourse flowing away towards Craigentinnie, and still extant. Kinloch’s Close, described in 1856 as “short, dark, and horrible,” took its name from Henry Kinloch, a wealthy burgess of the‘ Canongate in the days of Queen Mary, who committed to his hospitality, in 1565, when she is said to have acceded to the League of Bayonne, the French . ambassadors M. de Rambouillet and Clernau, who came on a mission from the Court of France. Their ostensible visit, however, was more probably to invest Darnley with the order of St. Michael. They had come through England with a train of thirty-six mounted gentlemen. After presenting themselves before the king and queen at Holyrood, according to the ‘‘ Diurnal of Occurrent$,” they “there after depairtit to Heny Kynloches lugeing in the Cannogait besyid Edinburgh.” A few days after Darnley was solemnly invested with the collar of St. Michael in the abbey church; and on the I rth of February the ambassadors were banqueted, and a masked ball y.as given, when “ the Queenis Grace and all her Manes and ladies were cZed in men’s appardy and each of them presented a sword, “ brawlie and maist artificiallie made a d embroiderit with gold, to the said ambassatour and his gentlemen.” Next day they were banqueted in the castle by the Earl of Mar, and on the‘ next ensuing they took their departure for France vid England. works on law and history would fill a large page. He was of a playful disposition, and fond of practical jokes; but during the latter part oc his life he entertained a nervous dread that he would outlive his noble faculties, and was pleased to find that by the rapid decay of his frame he would escape that dire calamity; and he died, after a brief illness, in 1782, in the eighty-seventh year of his age. The great Dr. Hunter, of ‘the Tron church, afterwards lived and died in this house. Lord Hailes, to whom we have referred elsewhere, resided during his latter years in New Street; but prior to his promotion to the‘bench he generally lived at New Hailes. His house, No. 23, was latterly possessed by Mr. Ruthven, the ingenious improver of the Ruthven printing-press. Christian Ramsay, the daughter of “honest Allan,” and so named from her mother, Christian Ross,’lived for many years in New Street, She was an amiable and kind-hearted woman, and possessed something of her fatheis gift of verse. In her seventy-fourth year she was thrown down by a hackney-coach and had her leg broken ; yet she recovered, and lived to be eighty-eight. Leading a solitary life, she took a great fancy to cats, and besides supporting many in her house, cosily disposed of in bandboxes, she laid out food for others around her house. “Not a word of obloquy would she listen to against the species,” says the author of “ Traditions of Edinburgh,” ‘‘ alleging, when any wickedness of a cat was spoken 05 that the animal must have acted under provocation, for by nature, she asserted, they were hapless ... lock was placed upon it for the same purpose. In 1647 only three open thoroughfares are shown OLD AND ...

Vol. 3  p. 17 (Rel. 0.3)

Stuart monarchs-a new era began in its history, and it took a stahding as the chief burgh in Scotland, the relations of which with England, for generations after, partook rather of a vague prolonged armistice in time of war than a settled peace, and thus all rational progress was arrested or paralysed, and was never likely to be otherwise so long as the kings of England maintained the insane pretensions of Edward I., deduced from Brute the fabulous first king of Albion ! In 1383 Robert 11. was holding his court in the Castle when he received there the ambassador of Charles VI., on the 20th August, renewing the ancient league with France. In the following year a truce ended; the Earls of March and Douglas began the war with spirit, and cut off a rich convoy on its way to Roxburgh. This brought the Duke of Lancaster and the Earl of Buckingham before Edinburgh. Their army was almost innumerable (according to Abercrombie, following Walsingham), but the former spared the city in remembrance of his hospitable treatment by the people when he was among them, an exile from the English court-a kindness for which the Scots cared so little that they followed up his retreat so sharply, that he laid the town and its great church in ashes when he returned in the following year. In 1390 Robert 111. ascended the throne, and ir. that year we find the ambassadors of Charles VI. again witnessing in the Castle the royal seal and signature attached to the treaty for mutual aid and defence against England in all time coming. This brought Henry IV., as we have said, before the Castle in 1400, with a well-appointed and numerous army, in August. From the fortress the young and gallant David Duke of Rothesay sent a herald with a challenge to meet him in mortal combat, where and when he chose, with a hundred men of good blood on each side, and determine the war in that way. " But King Henry was in no humour to forego the advantage he already possessed, at the head of a more numerous army than Scotland could then raise ; and so, contenting himself with a verbal equivocation in reply to this knightly challenge, he sat down with his numerous host before the Castle till (with the usual consequences of the Scottish reception of such'invaders) cold and rain, and - twenty feet in length, with three or four large saws, I for the common use, and six or more " cliekes of castles, resorted to the simple expedient of driving off all the cattle and sheep, provisions and goods, even to the thatch of their houses, and leaving nothing but bare walls for the enemy to wreak their vengeance on; but they never put up their swords till, by a terrible retaliating invasion into the more fertile parts of England, they fully made up for their losses. And this wretched state of affairs, for nearly 500 years, lies at the door of the Plantagenet and Tudor kings. The aged King Robert 111. and his queen, the once beautiful Annabella Drummond, resided in the Castle and in the abbey of Holyrood alternately. We are told that on one occasion, when the Duke of Albany, with several of the courtiers, were conversing one night on the ramparts of the former, a singular light was seen afar off at the horizon, and across the s t a q sky there flashea a bright meteor, carrying behind it a long train of sparks. '' Mark ye, sirs ! " said Albany, " yonder prodigy portends either the ruin of a nation or the downfall of some great prince ;a and an old chronicler omits not to record that the Duke of Rothesay (who, had he ascended the throne, would have been David III.), perished soon after of famine, in the hands of Ramornie, at Falkland. Edinburgh was prosperous enough to be able to contribute 50,000 merks towards the ransom of James I., the gifted author of " The King's Quhair " (or Book), who had been lawlessly captured at sea in his boyhood by the English, and was left in their hands for nineteen years a captive by his designing uncle the Regent Albany ; and though his plans for the pacification of the Highlands kept him much in Perth, yet, in 1430, he was in Edinburgh with Queen Jane and the Court, when he received the surrender of Alexander Earl of ROSS, who had been in rebellion but was defeated by the royal troops in Lochaber. As yet no Scottish noble had built a mansion in Edinburgh, where a great number of the houses were actually constructed of wood from the adjacent forest, thatched with straw, and few were more than two storeys in height ; but in the third Parliament of James I., held at Perth in 1425, to avert the conflagrations to which the Edinbiirghers were so liable, laws were ordained requiring the magistrates to have in readiness seven or eight ladders of his progress or retreat."* When unable to resist, the people of the entire town and country, who were not secured in * Wilson's ''Memorials." . fired ;' and that no fire was to be conveyed from one house to another within the town, unless in a covered vessel or lantern. Another law forbade' people on visits to live with their friends, but to ... monarchs-a new era began in its history, and it took a stahding as the chief burgh in Scotland, the ...

Vol. 1  p. 27 (Rel. 0.3)

The Grange.! GRANGE HOUSE. 49 “The chapel of St. Roque,” says Wilson, ‘‘ has not escaped the notice of the Lord Lyon King’s eulogist, among the varied features of the landscape that fill up the magnificent picture as Marmion rides under the escort of Sir David Lindesay to the top of Blackford Hill, in his approach to the Scottish camp, and looks down on the martial array of the kingdom, covering the wooded Links of the Burghmuir. James IV. is there represented as occasionally wending his way to attend mass at the neighbouring chapels of St. Katharine or St. Roque j nor is it unlikely that the latter may have been the scene of the monarch‘s latest acts of devotion, ere he led forth that gallant array to perish around him on the field of Flodden.” In the “Burgh Records,” 15th December, 1530, we find that James Barbour, master and governor of “the foul folk on the mure” (i.e., the peststricken), had made away with the goods and clothes of many that were lying in the chapel of St. Roqui; and that all who had any claims to make should bring them forward on a given day; but if the clothes proved of small value, they were to be burned or given to the poor. In 1532 the provost and bailies, “moved by devotion, have, for the honour of God and his Blissit Mother, Virgen Mane, and the holy confessour Sanct Rok,” for prayers to be said for the souls of those that lie in the said kirk and kirkyard, granted to Sir John Young, the chaplain thereof, three acres of the Burghmuir, with another acre to build houses upon; for which he and his successors were bound to keep the chapel in repair, and its slates and “ glaswyndois ” watertight. These acres are described in the “ Records ” as lying between the land of James Makgill on the west, and of William Henderson on the east, Braid‘s Burn on the south, and the common passage of the Muir (ie., the Grange Loan) on the north. Early in the present century, by a new proprietor, “ the whole of this interesting and venerable ruin was swept away as an unsightly encumbrance to the estate of a retired trades. man.” Close by, a tombstone from its burying-ground long remained at the corner of a thatched cottage in the Loan. It bore the date 1600. Others were to be found in the adjacent boundary walls. Now villas are springing up fast between the Loan and Blackford Hill, which in altitude is 698 feet above the level of the sea, and of which Scott says, in ‘‘ Marmion”.:- “Blackford ! on whose uncultured breast, A truant boy, I sought the nest, Or listed as I lay at rest ; While rose on breezes thin The murmur of the city crowd : And, from his steeple, jingling loud, Among the broom, and thorn, and whin, St. Giles’s mingling din.” The tiends and tithes of the Burghmuir belonged of old to the abbey of Holyrood, but this did not prevent the acquisition of its fertile acres by private proprietors, or their transference to different ecclesiastical foundations. The great parish church of the city had at the earliest period of its existence as chief clergyman an official styled the Vicar of St. Giles’s, who possessed an interest in a farmhouse called St. Giles’s Grange, which has given the name of The Grange to all the pleasant suburb around where once it stood. In 1679, William Dick of Grange succeeded Janet McMath, his mother, relict of William Dick of Grange, in the lands of St. Giles’s Grange, and eighteen arable acres of the Sciennes. Before the Grange House was enlarged by the late Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, it presented, in the early part of the present century, as shown by Storer, the appearance of a plain little castellated house, with only three chimneys and one circular turret. Of old it was the patrimony of the Dicks, from whom it went to the Lauders; and in the Register of Entails for 1757, we find Mrs. Isabel Dick of Grange, and Sir Andrew Lauder of Fountainhall, her husband, entailing the lands and estate of Grange. They were cousins. He was the fifth baronet of the old and honourable line of Lauder, and she was the only child and heiress of William Dick of Grange, whose arms, argent a fesse wavy, azure, between three mullets gules, were thenceforward quartered with the rampant griffin of the Lauders. She died in the old Grange House in 1758; and there also died her mother, in 1764, “Anne Seton, relict of William Dick of Grange: and eldest daughter of Sir Alexander Seton of Pitmedden, some time senator of the. College of Justice.” (Edinburgh Advertiser, Vol. I.) Her sister Jean died in the same house four years after. Dr. William Robertson, the historian and preacher, resided in the old Grange House in the later years of his life, and there his death occurred, on the I I th June, I 7 93- It was after the succession of Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, a well-known Zittirateur in Edinburgh society, who, early in life, was an officer of the Cameron Highlanders, that the Grange House was enlarge<, 103 ... Grange.! GRANGE HOUSE. 49 “The chapel of St. Roque,” says Wilson, ‘‘ has not escaped the notice of ...

Vol. 5  p. 49 (Rel. 0.3)

228 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith for many generations an ancient and lofty signaltower, the summit of which was furnished with little port-holes, like the loops designed for arrows or musketry in our old Scottish fortalices, but which were constructed here for the more peaceable purpose of watching the merchant ships of the port as they bore up the Firth of Forth or came to anchor off the Mussel Cape. An unusually bold piece of sculpture, in a deep square panel, was above the archway that led into the courtyard behind. It was afterwards placed over the arched entrance leading from the Tolbooth Wynd to St. Andrew’s Street, and, as shown by Robertson, bears the date 1678, with the initials G. R., with two porters carrying a barrel slung between them, a ship with a lee-board and the Scottish ensign, an edifice resembling a mill or two-storeyed granary, and above it a representation of a curious specimen of mechanical ingenuity. The latter consists of a crane, the entire machinery of which “was comprised in one large drum or broad wheel, made to revolve, like the wire cylinder of a squirrel’s cage, by a poor labourer, who occupied the quadruped’s place, and clambered up Sisyphus-like in his endless treadmill. The perspective, with the grouping and proportions of the whole composition, formed altogether an amusing and curious sample of both the mechanical and the fine arts of the seventeenth century.” A local writer in 1865 asserts-we know not upon what authority-that it is the tablet of the Association of Porters; and adds, that “had the man in the wheel missed a step when hoisting up any heavy article, he must have been sent whirling round at a speed in nowise tending to his personal comfort.” Robertson also writes of it as “The tablet of the Association of Porters, over the entrance to the old Sugar House Close.’’ About the middle of the wynd, on the south side, stood the edifice used, until 1812, as the Customhouse of Leith. It was somewhat quadrangular, with a general frontage of about a hundred feet, with a depth of ninety. Riddle’s Close separated it from the old Tolbooth and Town Hall, on the same side of the wynd. It was built in 1565 by the citizens of Leith, though not without strenuous opposition by their jealous feudal over-lords the community of Edinburgh, and was a singularly picturesque example of the old Tolbooth of a Scottish burgh. Anxious to please her people in Leith Queen Mary wrote several letters to the Town Council of Edinburgh, hoping to soothe the uncompromising hostility of that body to the measure; and at length the required effect was produced by the following epistle, which we have somewhat divested of its obsolete orthography :- ‘‘ To the Provost, Bailies, and Counsale of Edinburgh :- “Forasmeikle as we have sent our requisite sundry times to you, to permit the inhabitants of our town of Leith to big and edifie ane hous of justice within the samyn, and has received no answer from you, and so the work is steyit and cessit in your default. ‘t Wherefore we charge you, that ye permit our said town of Leith to big and editie ane said hous of justice within our said town of Leith, and make no stop or impediment to them to do the samyn; for it is our will that the samyn be biggit, and that ye desist from further molesting them in time coming, as we will answer to as thereupon. “ Subscribit with our hand at Holyrood House, the 1st day of March, this year of God 1563. “ MARIE R.” This mandate had the desired effect, and in two years the building was completed, as an ornamental tablet, with the Scottish arms boldly sculptured, the inscription, and date, “IN DEFENS, M. R., 1565,” long informed the passer-by. This edifice, which measured, as Kincaid states, sixty feet by forty over the walls, had a large archway in the centre, above which were two windows of great. height, elaborately grated. On the west of it, an outside stair gave access to the first floor ; on, the east there projected a corbelled oriel, or turret; lighted by eight windows, all grated. Three elaborate string mouldings traversed the polished ashlar.fronr of the building, which nvas surmounted by an embrasured battlement, and in one part by a crowstepped gable. Few prisoners of much note have been incarcerated here, as its tenants were generally persons who had been guilty of minor crimes. Perhaps the most celebrated prisoner it ever contained was the Scottish Machiavel, ’Maitland of Lethington, who had fallen into the merciless hands of the Regent Morton after the capitulation of Edinburgh Castle in I 5 7 3, and who died, as it was said, ‘‘ in the d d Roman fashion,” by taking poison to escape a public execution. This was on the 9th of July, as Calderwood records, adding that he lay so long unburied, “that the vermin came from his corpse, creeping out under the door where he died.” Such an occurrence, it has been remarked, said little for the sanitary arrangements of the Leith Tolbooth, and it is to be hoped that it had few other prisoners on that occasion. , ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith for many generations an ancient and lofty signaltower, the summit of which was ...

Vol. 6  p. 228 (Rel. 0.3)

I94 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. especially to the removal of the numerous middens, the repair of the roads and streets, and also the expected hospitality of the city, as we find that soon after the inhabitants were assessed to support the queen and her retinue till Holyrood Palace was prepared to receive her. They were also compelled +o defray their proportion of the expense of his return. Five years before this, in 1584, to prevent the incessant broils and riots that took place in High Street and elsewhere at night, it was enacted thai by ten o’clock forty strokes should be given on the great bell, after which any person found abroad wa: to be imprisoned during the magistrate’s pleasure, and fined forty shillings Scots ; while for the bettei regulation of the nightly watch the city was divided into thirty quarters, over each of which the magis. trates appointed two commanders, one a merchant, the other a craftsman, as also an officer to summon the citizens occasionally to take into consideration the affairs connected with these several divisions. (Council Register.) And now to glance briefly at the tdziex, or combats, for so were they named of old, of which the High Street has been the scene. Apart from the famous brawl named “Cleanse the Causeway,” already described, and that in which the Laird of Stainhouse fell with the French in 1560, a considerable amount of blood has been shed in this old thoroughfare. After the battle of Melrose, in 1526, there ensued a deadly feud between the border clans of Scott and Ken; which culminated in the slaughter of Sir Walter Scott of Branxholm and Buccleuch, by the Kerrs, in October, 1551, in the High Street. ‘‘ Bards long shall tell How Lord Walter fell ! When startled burghers fled afar, The furies of the Border war, When the streets of High Dunedin Saw lances gleam and falchions redden, And heard the slogan’s deadly yell- Then the chief of Branxholm fell !” Nor was the feud between these two families stanched till forty-five years later, when the chiefs of both paraded the High Street with their followers amicably, but it was expected their first meeting would decide their quarrel. On the 24th of November, 1567, about two in the afternoon, the Laird of Airth and Sir John Wemyss of that ilk, “met upon the Hie Gait of Edinburgh,” according to Birrel, “and they and their followers fought a bloody skirmish, when many were hurt on both sides by shot of pistol.” On this the Privy Council issued, but in vain, an edict against the wearing of culverins, dags, pistolets, or other ‘‘ firewerks.” The latter seem to have been adopted or in use earlier in Scotland than in the sister kingdom. At the raid of the Redswire, the English archers were routed by the volleys of the Scottish hackbuttiers ; and here we find, as the author of “Domestic Annals” notes, “that sword and buckler were at this time (1567) the ordinary gear of gallant men in England-a comparatively harmless furnishing ; but we see that small fire-arms were used in Scotland.” On the 7th December, three years after this, the Hoppringles and Elliots chanced to encounter in the same place-hostile parties knew each other well then by their badges, livery, and banners-and a terrible slaughter would have ensued had not the armed citizens, according to the “ Diurnal of Occurrents,” redLi-i. e., separated-them by main force. A feud, which for many years disturbed the upper valley of the Tweed, resulted in a tulzie in the streets which is not without gome picturesque details. It was occasioned by the slaughter of Veitch of Dawick’s son, in June, 1590, by or through James Tweedie of Drummelzier, to revenge which, rames Veitch younger of Synton, and Andrew Veitch, brother of the Laird of Tourhope, slew John Tweedie, tutor of Drummelzier and burgess of Edinburgh, as he walked in the public streets. Too much blood had been shed now for the matter to end there. The Veitches were arrested, but the Laird of Dawick came to the rescue with 10,000 inerks bail, and their fiberation was ordered by the king ; but they were barely free before they effected the slaughter of James Geddes of Glenhegden, head or chief of his family, with whom they, too, were at feud; and the recital of this crime, as given in the “Privy Council Record,” affords a curious insight into the modus opernndi of a daylight brawl in the streets at that time. We modernise it thus :- James Geddes, being in Edinburgh for the space of some eight days, openly and publicly met, almost daily in the High Street, the Laird of Drummelzier. The latter fearing an attack, albeit that Geddes was always alone, planted spies and retainers about the house in which he lived and other places to which he was in the habit of repairing. It chanced that on the 29th of December, 1592, James Geddes being in the Cowgate, getting his horse.shod at the booth of David Lindsay, and being altogether careless of his safety, Drummelzier was informed of his whereabouts, and dividing all ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. especially to the removal of the numerous middens, the repair of the ...

Vol. 2  p. 194 (Rel. 0.3)

for, a matrimonial alliance having been concluded between Ermengarde de Beaumont (cousin of Henry) and King VJilliam, the Castle was thriftily given up as part of her dowry, after having had an English garrison for nearly twelve years. Alexander II., their son, convened his first parliament in Edinburgh in 1215. Alexander III., son of the preceding, having been betrothed to Margaret daughter of Henry 111. of England nine years before their nuptials were celebrated at York in 1242, the queen, according to Amot, had Edinburgh Castle appointed as her residence; but it would seem to have been more of a stronghold than a palace, as she complained to her father that it was a ‘‘ sad and solitary place, without verdure, and, by reason of its vicinity to the sea, unwholesome;” and “that she was not permitted to make excursions through the kingdom, nor to choose her female attendants.” She was in her sixteenth year. Walter Earl of Menteith was at this time governor of the fortress, and all the offices of the city and of the nation itself were in the hands of his powerful family. Many Englishmen of rank accompanied the young queen-consort, and between these southern intruders and the jealous Scottish nobles there soon arose disputes that were both hot and bitter. As usual, the kingdom was rent into two powerful factions-one secretly favouring Henry, who artfully wished to have Scotland under his own dominion; another headed by Walter Comyn, John de Baliol, and others, who kept possession of Edinburgh, and with it the persons of the young monarch and his bride. These patriotically resisted the ambitious attempts of the King of England, whose emissaries, 0; being joined by the Earls of Carrick, Dunbar, and Strathearn, and Alan Dureward, High Justiciary, while theiI rivals were preparing to hold a parliament at Stirling, took the Castle of Edinburgh by surprise, and liberated the royal pair, who were triumphantly conducted to a magnificent bridal chamber, and afterwards had an interview with Henry at Wark, in Northumberland. During the remainder of the long and prosperous reign of Alexander 111. the fortress continued to be the chief place of the royal residence, and foI holding his courts for the transaction of judicial affairs, and much of the public business is said tc have been transacted in St. Maxgaret’s chamber. In 1278 William of Kinghorn was governor; and about this period the Castle was repaired and strengthened. It was then the safe deposit of the principal records and the regalia of the kingdom. And now we approach the darkest and bloodiesl . portion of the Scottish annals ; when on the death of the Maid of Norway (the little Queen Margaret) came the contested succession to the crown between Bruce, Baliol, and others ; and an opportunity was given to Edward I. of England of advancing a claim to the Scottish crown as absurd as it was baseless, but which that ferocious prince prosecuted to the last hour of his life with unexampled barbarity and treachery. On the 11th of June, 1291, the Castle‘of Edinburgh and all the strongholds in the Lowlands were unwisely and unwarily put into the hands of the crafty Plantagenet by the grasping and numerous claimants, on the ridiculous pretence that the subject in dispute should be placed in the power of the umpire ; and the governors of the various fortresses, on finding that the four nobles who had been appointed .guardians of the realm till the dispute was adjusted had basely abandoned Scotland to her fate, they, too, quietly gave up their trusts to Edward, who (according to Prynne’s “ History ”) appointed Sir Radulf Basset de Drayton governor of Edinburgh Castle, with a garrison of English soldiers. According to Holinshed he personally took this Castle after a fifteen days’ siege with his warlike engines. On the vigil of St. Bartholomew a list was drawn up of the contents of the Treasury in the Castra de Edrir6ut-g; and among other religious regalia we find mentioned the Black Rood of Scotland, which St. Margaret venerated so much. . By Edward’s order some of the records were left in the Castle under the care of Basset, but all the most valuable documents were removed to England, where those that showed too clearly the ancient independence of Scotland were carefully destroyed, or tampered with, and others were left to moulder in the Tower of London. On the 8th of July, 1292, we find Edward again at Edinburgh, where, as self-styled Lord Paramount, he received within the chapel of St. Margaret the enforced oath of fealty from Adam, Abbot of Holyrood; John, Abbot of Newbattle ; Sir Brim le Jay, Preceptor of the Scottish Templars; the Prior of St. John of Jerusalem ; and Christina, Prioress of Emanuel, in Stirlingshire. Bnice having refused to accept a crown shorn of its rank, Edward declared in favour of the pitiful Baliol, after which orders were issued to the captains of the Scottish castles to deliver them up to John, King of Scotland. Shame at last filled the heart of the latter; he took the field, and lost the battle of Dunbar. Edward, reinforced by fifteen thousand Welsh and a horde of Scottish traitors, appeared before Edinburgh Castle; the ... a matrimonial alliance having been concluded between Ermengarde de Beaumont (cousin of Henry) and King ...

Vol. 1  p. 23 (Rel. 0.3)

St. Mary’s Wynd.1 THE “ WHITE HORSE” INN. 299 long dwelt the celebrated artistic decorator of many of the best old houses in Edinburgh, John Norrie, whose workshop adjoined the coach-house of Lord Milton, and both of which were converted into stables for Boyd’s famous old “White Horse ” Inn, one of the great hostelries of Edinburgh, in the days when ‘‘ hotels” were unknown, and when guests, except those whose business was of a very temporary nature, usually repaired to lodging-houses, of which the most famous in 1754 was Mrs. Thomson’s at the Cross, who, as per advertisement, served people who had not their own silver plate, tea china, table china, and tea linen, with all these luxuries, together with wines and spirits. When the famous patriot chief, Pasquale de Paoli, had been driven into exile by the French invaders of Corsica, among other places in his wanderings he came to Edinburgh in the autumn of 177 I, accompanied by the Polish Ambassador, Count Burzyuski; and on the 3rd of September they arrived at Peter Ramsay’s “ White Horse ’I Inn, in St. Mary’s Wynd, from whence he was immediately taken home by Boswell to his house in James’s Court, while the Count became the guest of his neighbour, Dr. John Gregory, “to whom they brought a letter from the ingenious Mrs. Montague.” Boswell introduced Paoli to Lord Kames, Dr. Robertson, David Hume, and others, who though greatly his seniors, admitted him into their circle, and he showed him over the Castle, Holyrood, Duddingston, and other places. Ramsay’s inn was chiefly famous for its stables, and in that establishment he realised a large fortune. In I 776 he advertised that, exclusive of some part of his premises recently offered for sale, he possessed “ a good house for entertainment, good stables for above one hundred horses, and sheds for above twenty carriages.” He retired from business in St. Mary’s Wynd in 1790, with above LIO,OOO, according to one account, and his death is thus recorded in the “Scottish Register.” “Jan. I, 1794. At his son’s house of Gogar, Co. Edinburgh, Peter Ramsay, Esq., formerly an eminent innkeeper at the Cowgate Port, in which station he acquired upwards of ~ 3 0 , 0 0 0 . He has left one son, William Ramsay, jun., Esq., banker in Edinburgh, and one daughter, the widow of Captain Mansfield, of the South Fencible Regiment, who lost his life at Leith in 1779, when attempting to quell a mutiny.” Eoyd’s Close, or the White Horse Close, as it was often called, opened into Boyd’s Entry from St. Mary’s Wynd. The inn there was more modern, and was larger than Ramsay’s, but had, like his, the principal rooms above the stables ; and at this White Horse” it was that Dr. Johnson, on arriving at Edinburgh on the 17th of August, 1773, put up, and from whence he sent his curt note to Boswel1:- ‘( Saturday night :-<‘ Mr. Johnson sends his compliments to Mr. Boswell, being just arrived at Boyd’s.” And here it was, as we have related, that Boswell found him storming at the waiter, when he and William Scott, afterwards Lord Stowell, repaired thither, and received an instalment of that domineering manner which excited the aristocratic contempt that old Lord Auchinleck so freely expressed for ‘‘ the dominie the auld English dominie, that keepit a schule and ca’ad it an acaademy.” In Boyd’s ‘‘ White Horse Inn ” one particularly large room was the scene of many a marriage between runaway English couples ; and on a window, written with a diamond, were long to be seen the remarkable names of Jeremiah and Sarah Bmtham, I 768. “ James Eoyd, the keeper of this inn, was addicted to horse racing, and his victories on the turf, or rather on Leith sands, are frequently chronicled in journals of that day. It is said that he was one time on the brink of ruin, when he was saved by a lucky run with a white horse, which in gratitude he kept idle all the rest of its days, besides setting up its portrait as his sign. He eventually retired from this ‘ dirty and dismal’ inn with a fortune of several thousand pounds ; and, as a curious note upon the impression which its slovenliness conveyed to Dr. Johnson, it may be stated as a fact, well authenticated, that, at the time of his giving up the house he possessed napery to the value of five hundred pounds.” St. Mary’s Wynd was, in 1869, the first scene of the operations of the trustees who acted under the Improvement Act of 1867, when they commenced to pull down the buildings between it and Gullan’s Close, in the Canongate. By this time it had become one of the most wretched slums in the city, a narrow and stifling alley, to navigate the intricacies of which required some courage. I t was scarcely possible to avoid coming in contact with cast-off apparel of all kinds, or stumbling against piles of old boots, pots, pans, and furniture. Under designs furnished for the upper part by the late David Cousin, who for many years occupied an important official post in connection with the municipality, and for the lower part by Mr. Lessels, another architect, the wynd has now become a ... Mary’s Wynd.1 THE “ WHITE HORSE” INN. 299 long dwelt the celebrated artistic decorator of many of the ...

Vol. 2  p. 299 (Rel. 0.3)

North Bridge.] JOHN EARL OF MAR. 335 have foreseen; we say long-suggested, for, though not carried out till the early years of George 111.’~ reign, it had been projected in the latter end of the reign of Charles 11. The idea was first suggested when James VII., as Duke of Albany and York, was resident Royal Commissioner at Holyrood, in the zenith of the only popularity he ever had in Scotland. Vast numbers of the Scottish nobility and gentry flocked .around him, and the old people of the middle of xhe eighteenth century used to recall with delight the magnificence and brilliance of the court he gathered in the long-deserted palace, and the general air of satisfaction which pervaded the entire city. Despite the recent turmoils and sufferings consequent on the barbarous severity with which the Covenanters had been treated, Edinburgh was prosperous, and its magistrates bestowed noble presents upon their royal guest; but the best proof of the city’s prosperity was the new and then startling idea s f having an extended royalty and a North Bridge, ;and this idea the Duke of Albany warmly patronised and encouraged, and towards it gave the citizens a grant in the following terms :- “That, when they should have occasion to enlarge their city by purchasing ground without tthe town, or to build bridges or arches for the accomplishing of the same, not only were the propietors of such lands obliged to part With the same an reasonable terms, but when in possession thereof, they are to be erected into a regality in favour of the citizens ; and after finishing the Canongate church, the city is to have the surplus of the 20,ooo merks given by Thomas Moodie, in the year 1649, with the interest thereof; and as all public streets belong to the king, the vaults and cellars under those of Edinburgh being forfeited to the Crown, by their being built without leave or consent of his majesty, he granted all the said vaults or cellars to the town, together with a power to oblige the proprietors of houses, to lay before their. respective tenements large flat stones for the conveniency of walking.” James VII. had fully at heart the good of Edinburgh, and but for the events of the Revolution the improvements of the city would have commenced seventy-two years sooner than they did, but the neglect of subsequent monarchs fell heavily alike on the capital and the kingdom. “Unfortunately,” . :says Robert Chambers, “the advantages which Edinburgh enjoyed under this system of things were destined to be of short duration. Her royal :guest departed, with all his family and retinue, in May, 1682. In six years more he was lost both :o Edinburgh and Britain; and ‘a stranger filled :he Stuart’s throne,’ under whose dynasty Scotland ?ined long in undeserved reprobation.” The desertion of the city consequent on the Union made all prospect of progress seem hopeless, yet some there were who never forgot the cherished idea of an extended royalty. Among various plans, the most remarkable for its foresight was that 3f John eighteenth Lord Erskine and eleventh Earl of Mar, who was exiled for his share in the insurrection of I 7 I 5. His sole amusement during the years of the long exile in which he died at Aix-la-Chapelle in 1732 was to draw plans and designs for the good of his beloved native country and its capital; and the paper to which we refer is one written by him in 1725, and mentioned in vol. 8 of the “Old Statistical Account of Scotland,” published in 1793. “All ways of improving Edinburgh should be thought on : as in particular, making a Zarge bridge flfhree arch, over the ground betwixt the North Loch and Physic Gardens, from the High Street at Liberton’s Wynd to the Multersey Hill, where many fine streets might be built, as the inhabitants increased. The access to them would be easy on all hands, and the situation would be agreeable and convenient, having a noble prospect of all the fine ground towards the sea, the Firth of Forth, and coast of Fife. One long street in a straight line, where the Long Gate is now (Princes Street?) ; on one side of it would be a fine opportunity for gardens down to the North Loch, and one, on the other side, towards Broughton. No houses to be on the bridge, the breadth of the North Loch ; but selling the places or the ends for houses, and the vaults and arches below for warehouses and cellars, the charge of the bridge might be defrayed. “ Another bridge might also be made on the other side of the towq, and almost as useful and commodious as that on the north. The place where it could most easily be made is St. Mary‘s Wynd, and the Pleasance. The hollow there is not so deep, as where the other bridge is proposed, so that it is thought that two storeys of arches might raise it near the level with the street at the head of St. Mary’s Wynd. Betwixt the south end of the Pleasance and the Potter-row, and from thence to Bristo Street, and by the back of the wall at Heriot‘s Hospital, are fine situations for houses and gardens. There would be fine avenues to the town, and outlets for airing and walking by these bridges ; and Edinburgh, from being a bad incommodious situation, would become a very beneficial and convenient one ; and to make it still more so, a branch of that river, called the Water of Leith, misht, it is thought, be brought ... Bridge.] JOHN EARL OF MAR. 335 have foreseen; we say long-suggested, for, though not carried out till the ...

Vol. 2  p. 335 (Rel. 0.29)

166 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Leith. or ripple or burnished face of water, the very aspect of which is luxury in a summer day.” North Leith is bounded on the north ‘by the Firth of Forth, on the south and east by the stream which gives its name to the whole locality, dividing it from South Leith, and on the south and west by St. Cuthbert’s. It is oblong in form, and has an area of only 517 acres, Its surface is nearly a uniform level, and with the exception of some garden grounds is covered by streets and villas. Between North Leith and Xewhaven the coast has been to a considerable extent washed away by the encroaching waves of the Firth, but has now received the aid of strong stone bulwarks to protect it from further loss. The Links of North Leith, which lay along the coast, were let in 1595 at the annual rent of six merks, while those of South Leith were let at a rent of thirty, so the former must have been one-fifth of the extent of the latter, or a quarter of a mile long by three hundred yards in breadth. For many years the last vestiges of these have disappeared and what must formerly have been a beautiful and grassy plain is now an irreclaimable waste, where not partially occupied by the railway and goods station, regularly flooded by the tide, and displaying at low water a thick expansion of stones and pebbles, washed free from mould or soil. The earliest reference td Leith in history is in King David‘s famous charter to Holyrood, aim 1143-7, whereir. he gives the water, fishings, and meadows to the canons serving God therein, ‘‘ and Broctan, with its right marches ; and that Tnverlet which is nearest the harbour, and with the half of the fishing, and with a whole tithe of all the fishing that belongs to the church of St. Cuthbert.” This charter of King David is either repeated or quoted in all subsequent grants by charter, or purchases of superiority, referring to Leith ; and by it there would seem to have been in that early age some species of harbour where the Leith joins the Firth of Forth ; but there is again a reference to it in 1313, when all the vessels there were burned by the English during the war waged by Edward II., which ended in the following year at Bannockburn. On the 28th of May, 1329, King Robert I. began all the future troubles of Leith by a grant of it to the city of Edinburgh, in the following terms :- U Robert, by the grace of God King of Scots, to all good men of his land, greeting: Know ye that we have given, granted, and to perform let, and by this our present charter confirmed, to the burgesses of our burgh of Edinburgh, our foresaid burgh of Edinburgh, together with the port of Leith, mills, and their pertinents, to have and to hold, to the said burgesses and their successors, of us and our heirs, freely, quietly, fully, and honourably, by all. their right meithes and marches, with all the commodities, liberties, and easements which justiy pertained to the said burgh in the time of King: Alexander, our predecessor last deceased, of good memory ; paying, therefore, the said burgesses and their successors, to us and our heirs, yearly, fiftytwo merks sterling, at the terms of Whitsunday, and Martinmas in winter, by equal proportions. In witness whereof we have commanded our seal to be affixed to our present charter. Tesfihs, Walter of Twynham, our Chancellor ; Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray, Lord of Annandale and Man, our nephew ; Janies, Lord of Douglas ; Gilbert of Hay, our Constable ; Robert of Keith, our Marischal1 of Scotland, and Adam Moore, knights. At Cardross, the 28th of May, in the twenty-fourth year of our reign.” (Burgh Charters, No. iv.) From the date of this document a contest for the right of superiority commenced, and till the present century Leith was never free from the trammels imposed upon it by the city of Edinburgh ; and the town council, not content with the privileges given by Robert Bruce, eventually got possession of the ground adjacent to the harbour, on the banks of the river. In those days the population of the infant port must have been very small. In the index of missing royal charters in the time of King Robert II., there is one to John Gray, Clerk Register, “ of ane tenement in Leith,” and another to the monastery of Melrose of a tenement in the same place; and in 1357, among those’who entered into an obligation to pay the ransom of King David II., then a prisoner of war in England, we find “ William of Leith,” no doubt a merchant of substance in his day. Thomas of Leith, or another bearing the same name, witnessed a charter of David, Earl of Orkney, in 1391. Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig, a man of heartless, greedy, and rapacious character, began to contest the-citizens’ claim or right of superiority over Leith, and obliged them to take a concession of it from him by purchase or charter, dated the 31st of May, 1398 ; and to this document we have referred in a preceding chapter. Prior to this, says Maitland, the course of traffic was restricted by him “to the use of a narrow and inconvenient lane, a little beneath the Tolbooth Wynd, now called the Burgess Close.” As we have related in the account of Restalrig, Sir Robert Logan granted to the community of Edinburgh a right to the waste lands in the vicinity (Burgh Charters, Xo. vi.) ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Leith. or ripple or burnished face of water, the very aspect of which is luxury in a ...

Vol. 5  p. 166 (Rel. 0.29)

330 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Potterrow. ~~~ ~ very distinguished and accomplished circle, among whom David Hume, John Home, Lord Monboddo, and many other men of name, were frequently to be found.” Now she lies not far from Crichton Street, in the northeast corner of the old burying-ground of the Chapel 6f Ease; her tombstone is near the graves of the poet Blacklock and old Rector Adam of the High SchooL “ Except a mean street called Potterrow, and a very short one called Bristo, there were, till within these twelve years, hardly any buildings on the south side of the town,” says Arnot in 1779 ; and with these lines he briefly dismisses the entire history of one of the oldest thoroughfares in Edinburgh- the Eastern Portsburgh, which lies wholly to the eastward of Bristo Street, and may be described as comprehending the east side of that street from the Bristo Port southward, the Potterrow, Lothian and South College Streets, Drummond Street to opposite Adam Street, and Nicolson Street to nearly the entry to the York Hotel on the west, and to the Surgeons’ Hall on the east. But jurisdictions had long ceased to be exercised in either of the Portsburghs by the baron or resident bailies; yet there are eight incorporated trades therein, who derive their rights from John Touris of Inverleith. In Edgar’s map the main street of the Potterrow is represented as- running, as it still does, straight south from the Potterrow Port in the city wall, adjacent to the buildings of the old college, its houses on the east overlooking the wide space of Lady Nicolson’s Park, between which and the west side of the Pleasance lay only a riding-school and some six or seven houses, surrounded by gardens and hedgerows. It has always been a quaint and narrow street, and the memorabilia thereof are full of interest. A great doorway on its western side, only recently removed, in I 870, measured six feet six inches wide, and was designed in heavy Italian rustic-work, with the date 1668, and must have given access to an edifice of considerable importance. In 1582 the Potterrow, together with the West Port, Restalrig, and other suburbs, was occupied by the armed companies of the Duke of Lennox, who, while feigning to have gone abroad, had a treasonable intention of seizing alike the palace of Holyrood and the city of Edinburgh ; but “ straitt watche,” says Calderwood, was keeped both in the toun and the abbey.” In November, r584, it was enacted by the Council that none of the inhabitants of the city, the Potterrow, West Port, Canongate, or Leith, ~~ ~~~~ ~~ harbour, stable, or lodge strangers, for dread of the plague, without reporting the same within an hour to the commissary within whose quarter or jurisdiction they dwell. In the year 1639 a gun foundry was established in the Potterrow to cast cannon for the first Covenanting war, by order of General Leslie. These guns were not exclusively metal. The greater part of the composition was leather, and they were fabricated under the eye of his old Swedish comrade, Sir Alexander Hamilton of the Red House, a younger son of the famous “Tam 0’ the Cow gate,” and did considerable execution when the English army was defeated at Newburnford, above Newcastle, on the 28th August, 1640. These cannon, which were familiarly known among the Scottish soldiers as “Dear Sandie’s stoups,” were carried slung between two horses. About the same time, or soon after this period, witches and warlocks began to terrify the locality, and in 1643 a witch was discovered in the Potterrow- Agnes Fynnie, a small dealer in groceries, who was tried and condemned to be “worried at the stake,” and then burned to ashes-a poor wretch, who seems to have had no other gifts from Satan than a fierce temper and a bitter tongue. Among the charges against her, the fifth was, while ‘‘ scolding with Bettie Currie about the changing of a sixpence, which she alleged to be ill (bad), ye in great rage threatened that ye would make the devil take a bite of her.” The ninth is that, “ye ending a compt with Isabel Atchesone, and because ye could not get all your unreasonable demands, ye bade the devil ride about the town with her and hers ; whereupon the next day she broke her leg by a fall from a horse, and ye came and saw her and said, ‘ See that ye say not I have bewitched ye, as the other neighbours say.’ ” The eighteenth clause in her ditfuy is, “ that ye, having fallen into a controversie with Margaret Williamson, ye most outrageously wished the devil to blaw her blind; after which, she, by your sorcerie, took a grievous sickness, whereof she went blind.” The nineteenth is, “ for laying a madness on Andrew Wilson conform to your threating, wishing the devil to rivc fhe soul auf of him.” (Law’s “ Memorialls,” 1638-84.) At the utmost, this unfortunate creature had only been guilty of bad wishes towards certain neighbours, and if such had any sequel, it must have been through superstitious apprehensions. It is fairly presumable, says a writer, that while the community was so ignorant as to believe that malediction would have actively evil results, it would occasionally have these effects by its in- (“ Privy Council Register.”) ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Potterrow. ~~~ ~ very distinguished and accomplished circle, among whom David Hume, ...

Vol. 4  p. 330 (Rel. 0.29)

322 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [1745!. CEIAFTER XL. E D I N B U R G H IN 1745. Provost Stewart-Advance of the Jacobite Clans-Preparations for Defence-CapturC of the City-Lochiel’s Surprise--Entmnce of Prince Charles-Arrival at Holyrood-James VIII. Proclaimed at the Cross+onduct of the Highland Troops in the City-Colquhoun Grant- A Triumphal Procession-Guest’s Council of War-Preston’s Fidelity. WE have referred to the alleged narrow escape of Prince Charles Edward in the house of Provost Stewart in the West Bow. Had he actually been captured there, it is difficult to tell, and indeed useless to surmise, what the history of the next few years would have been. The Castle would probably have been stormed by his troops, and we might never have heard of the march into England, the fields of Falkirk or Culloden. One of the most singular trials consequent upon the rising of 1745 was that of Provost Stewart for ‘( neglect of duty, misbehaviour in public office, and violation of trust and duty.” From his house in the Bow he had to proceed to London in November, 1745. Immediately upon his arrival he sent notice of it to the Secretary of State, and underwent a long and vexatious trial before a Cabinet CounciL He was taken into custody, but was liberated upon the 23rd of January, 1746, on bail to the extent of ~15,000, to appear, as a traitor, before the High Court of Justiciary at Edinburgh. Whether it was that Government thought he was really culpable in not holding out the extensive and mouldering wal!s of Edinburgh against :troops already flushed with success, and in opposition to the wishes of the majority of the inhabitants, or whether they meant only to intimidate the disaffected, we shall not determine, says Arnot. Provost Stewart was brought to trial, and the court “fotind it relevant to infer the pains of law, that ihe panel, at the time and place libelled, being then Lord Provost of the City of Edinburgh, wilfully neglected to pursue, or wilfully opposed, or obstqcted when opposed by others, such measures as were necessary for the defence of the city against the rebels in the instances libelled, or so much of them as do amount to such wilful neglect.” After a trial, which occupies zoo pages of an octavo volume (printed for Crawford in the Parlia- .merit Close, r747), on the and of November, the jury, the half of whom were country gentlemen, returned a vcrdict, unanimously finding Provost Stewart not guilty; but he would seem to have left the city soon after. He settled in London, where he became an eminent merchant, and died at Bath, in 17S0, in the eighty-third year of hisage. No epoch of. the past has left so vivid an impression on the Scottish mind as the year 1745 ; history and tradition, poetry and music, prove this from the days of the Revolution down to those of Burns, Scott, and others ; for the whole land became filled with melodies for the lost cause and fallen race ; while it is a curious fact, that not one song or air can be found in favour of the victors. Considerable discontent preceded the advent of the Highlanders in Edinburgh, which then had a population of only about 40,000 inhabitants. Kincaid tells us that thep was an insurrection there in 1741 in consequence of the high price of food; and another in 1742, in consequence of a number of dead bodies having been raised. The former of these was not quelled without bloodshed, and in the latter the houses of many suspected persons were burned to the ground; and that imaginary tribulation might not be wanting, we learn from the autobiography of Dr. Carlyle of Inveresk, that people now began to recall a prophecy of Peden the pedlar, that the Clyde should run with blood in 1744. A letter from the Secretary of State to the Town Council had made that body aware, so early as the spring of 1744, that it was the intention of Prince Charles to raise an insurrection in the Highlands, and they hastened to assure the king of their loyalty and devotion, to evince which they prepared at once for the defence of the city, by augmenting its Guard to 126 men, and mustering the trained bands. After landing in the wilds of Moidart, with only seven men, and unfurling his standard in Glenfinnan, on the 19th of August, 1745, Charles Edward soon found himself at the head of 1,200 followers, whose success in a few petty encounters roused the ardour and emulation of the Macdonalds, McLeans, and other warlike septs, who rose in arms, to peril life and fortune for the last of the old royal race. The news of his landing reached Edinburgh on the 8th of August, and it was quickly followed by tidings of the muster in Glenfinnan, and the capture of a company of the. 1st Royal Scots, at the Spean Bridge, by Major Macdonald of Teindreich. Early in July 5,000 stand of arms had been placed in the Castle, which Lieutenant-General Sir John Cope ordered to be provisioned, while he reinforced its ordinary garrison by two companies of the 47th regiment; and theLieutenant-Governor, Lieutenant- General Preston, of Valleyfield (who had been 2 ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [1745!. CEIAFTER XL. E D I N B U R G H IN 1745. Provost Stewart-Advance of the ...

Vol. 2  p. 322 (Rel. 0.29)

Convi~ialii] THE SPENDTHRIFT CLUB. 12.5 called one of his brother boars by his proper outof- club name, the term < Sir ’ being only allowed. The entry-money, fines, and other pecuniary acquisitions, were hoarded for a grand annual dinner.” In 1799 some new officials were added, such as a poet-laureate, champion, archbishop, and chief grunter, and by that time, as the tone and expenses of the club had increased, the fines became very severe, and in the exactions no one met with any mercy, ‘‘ as it was the interests of all that the & should bring forth a plenteous farrow.” This practice led to squabbles, and the grotesque fraternity was broken up. The COUNTRY DINNER CLUB was a much more sensible style of gathering, when some respectable citizens of good position were wont to meet on the afternoon of each Saturday about the year 1790 to dine in an old tavern in Canonmills, then at a moderate distance from town. They kept their own particular claret. William Ramsay, a banker, then residing in Warriston House, was deemed ‘( the tongue of the trump to the club,” which entirely consisted of hearty and honest old citizens, all of whom have long since gone to their last account. The EAST INDIA CLUB was formed in 1797, and held its first meeting in John Bayll’s tavern on the 13th of January that year, when the Herald announces that dinner would be on the table at the then late and fashionable hour of four, but the body does not seem to have been long in existence ; it contributed twenty guineas to the sufferers of a fire in the Cowgate in the spring of 1799, and fifty to the House of Industry in 1801. John Bayll managed the “George Square assemblies,” which were held in Buccleuch Place. His tavern was in Shakespeare Square, where his annual balls and suppers, in 1800, were under the patronage of the Duchess of Buccleuch and Mrs. Dundas of Amiston. Of the CAPE CLUB, which was established on the 15th of March, 1733, and of which Fergusson the poet and Runciman the painter were afterwards members, an account will be found in Vol. I., which, however, omitted to give the origin of the name of that long-existing and merry fraternity, and which was founded on an old, but rather weak, Edinburgh joke of the period. Some well-known burgess of the Calton who WE in the habit of spending the evening hours with friends in the city, till after the ten o’clock drum had been beaten and the Netherbow Port wa: shut, to obtain egress was under the necessity 01 bribing the porter there, or remaining within the walls all ni&it. On leaving the gate he had tc turn acutely to the left to proceed down Leith Wynd, which this facetious toper termed ‘‘ doubling the Cape.” Eventually it became a standing joke in the small circle of Edinburgh then, “and the Cape Club owned a regular institution from 1763,” says Chambers, but its sixty-fifth anniversary is announced in the HeraZd of 1798, for the 15th of March as given above. The SPENDTHRIFT CLUB, was so called in ridicule of the very moderate indulgence of its members, whose expenses were limited to fourpence-halfpenny each night, yet all of them were wealthy or well-to-do citizens, many of whom usually met after forenoon church at the. Royal Exchange for a walk in the country-their plan being to walk in the direction from whence the wind blew and thus avoid the smoke of the city. “ In 1824,” says ChamberS, ‘‘ in the recollection of the senior members, some of whom were of fifty years’ standing, the house (of meeting) was kept by the widow of a Lieutenant Hamilton of the army, who recollected having attended the theatre in the Tennis Court at Holyrood when the play was the ‘ Spanish Friar,, and many of the members of the Union Parliament were present in the house.” The meetings of this club were nightly, till reduced to four weekly, Whist was played for a halfpenny. Supper originally cost only twopence, and half a bottle of strong ale, with a dram, cost twopence-halfpenny more ; a halfpenny to the servant-maid, was a total of fivepence for a night of jollity and good fellowship. The PIOUS CLUB was composed of respectable and orderly business-men who met every night, Sundays not excepted, in the Pie-house-hence their name, a play upon the words. We are told that “the agreeable uncertainty as to whether their name arose from their pie& or the circumstance of their eating piesy kept the club hearty for many years.” Fifteen members constituted a full night, a gill of toddy to each was served out like wine from a d e canter, and they were supposed to separate at ten o’clock. The ANTEMANUM CLUB was composed of men of respectability, and many who were men of fortune, who dined together every Saturday. “ Brag” was their chief game with cards. It was a purely convivial club, till the era of the Whig party being in the ascendant led to angry political discussions, and eventual dissolution. The SIX FEET CLUB was composed of men who were of that stature or above it, if possible. It was an athletic society, and generally met half-yearly at the Hunter‘s Tryst, near Colinton, or similar places, ... THE SPENDTHRIFT CLUB. 12.5 called one of his brother boars by his proper outof- club name, the term ...

Vol. 5  p. 125 (Rel. 0.29)

94 . OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Inverleith. the long hill on the south side of the West Port, from Cowfeeder Row to the Bristo Port, the eastei and wester crofts of Bristo, nearly down to the lsnds of the abbey of Holyrood. Of the old fortalice of this extinct race, and ol their predecessors-which stood on the highesi ground of Invorleith, a little way west of where we find the modern house now embosomed among luxuriant timber-not a vestige remains. Even its ancient dovecot-in defiance of the old Scottish superstition respecting the destruction of a dovecot -has been removed. “The beautiful and sequestered footpath bordered (once ?) by hawthorn hedges, known by the name of Gabriel’s Road,” says a local writer, “is said to have been constructed for the convenience of the ancient lairds of Inverleith to enable them to attend worship in St. Giles’s.” No relics remain of the ancient dwelling, unless we except the archery butts, 600 feet apart, standing nearly due south of Inverleith Mains, the old home farm of the mansion, and the two very quaint and ancient lions surmounting the pillars of the gate at the north end of St. Bernard’s Row, and which local tradition avers came from the Castle of Edinburgh. Of the different families who have possessed this estate, and inhabited first the baronial tower, and latterly the manor-house there, but a few disjointed notices can alone be gleaned. “The lands upon which I live at Inverleith,” says the late eminent antiquary, Cosmo Innes, in his “Scottish Legal Antiquities,” “ which I can trace back by charters into the possession of the baker of William the Lion, paid, in the time of King Robert I., a hundred shillings of stediizgs. (The coinage of the Easterlings.) Some fields beside me are still called the Baxteis (i.e., Baker‘s) Lands.” And this is after a lapse of seven hundred years. Among the charters of Robert I. is one to William Fairly of the lands of Inverleith, in the county of Edinburgh. Among those of David 11. is another charter of the same lands to William Ramsay ; and another, by Robert II., of the same to David Ramsay. The date of the latter charter is given in the “Douglas Peerage” as the 2nd of July, 1381, and the recipient as the second son of the gallant and patriotic Sir William Ramsay of Dalhousie, who drew the English into an ambuscade at the battle of Nisbetmuir in 1355, and caused their total rout. In time to come Inverleith passed to the Touris. In 1425 John of Touris (or Towers) appears a? a bailie of Edinburgh, with Adam de Bonkill and John Fawside. In 1487 William Touris of Innerleith (doubtless his son) granted an annuity of fourteen merks for the support of a chaplain to officiate at St. Anne’s altar, in St. Cuthbert’s Church. George Touris was a bailie of the city in 1488-92, and in the fatal year of Flodden, 1513, 19th August, he is designated “President” of the city, the provost of which- Sir Alexander Lauder-was killed in the battle ; and Francis Touris (either a son or brother) was a bailie in the following year. ’ In the ‘‘ Burgh Records,” under date 1521, when the Lairds of Restalrig and Craigmillar offered at a Town Council meeting to be in readiness tw resist the king’s rebels, in obedience to his royal letters, for the safety of his person, castle, and town; hereupon, “ Schir Alexander Touris of- Innerleith protestit sik lik.” In 1605, Sir George Touris of Garmilton, knight, succeeded his father John of Inverleith in the dominical lands thereof, the mill and craig ofi that name, the muir and fortalice of Wardie, and Bell’s land, alias the “ Lady’s land of Inverleith.” Sir John Touris of Inverleith mamed Lady Jean Wemyss, a daughter of the first Lord Wemyss of Elcho, afterwards Earl, who died in 1649. In 1648 this Sir John had succeeded his father, Sir Alexander Touris, knight in the lands of Inverleith, Wardie, Tolcroce, Highriggs, &c. The epoch of the Commonwealth, in 1652, saw John Rocheid, heir to his father James, a merchant and burgess of Edinburgh, in ‘‘ the Craig of Inverleith,” (“ Retours.”) This would imply Craigleith, as from the “Retours ” in 1665, Inverleith, in the parish of St. Cuthbert’s, went from James Halyburton, proprietor thereof, to Alexander, his father. And in ‘‘ Dirleton’s Decisions,” under date 1678, Halyburton, “ late of Inverleith,” is referred to as a prisoner for debt at Edinburgh. So from them the estate had passed to the Rocheids. Sir James Rocheid of Inverleith, petitioned the Privy Council in 1682, for permission to ‘‘ enclose and impark some ground,” under an Act of 1661 ; and in 16yz he entailed the estate. In 1704 he was made a baronet. In the “Scottish Nation,” we are told that Rocheid of Inverleith, a name originating in a personal peculiarity, had as a crest a man’s head rough and hairy, the same borne by the Rocheids of Craigleith. The title became extinct in the person of Sir Jarnes, the second baronet, whose. daughter and co-heiress, Mary, married Sir Francis Kinloch, Bart., and her third son, on succeeding. ... . OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Inverleith. the long hill on the south side of the West Port, from Cowfeeder Row to ...

Vol. 5  p. 94 (Rel. 0.29)

21% OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Nether Bow. with cannon stone-shot in 1544, ere advancing ;against the Castle. “ They hauled their. cannons up the High Street by force of men to the ButteI Tron, and above,” says Calderwood, “ and hazarded a shot against the fore entrie of the Castle (i.e., the port of the Spur). But the wheel and axle 01 .one of the English cannons was broken, and some of their men slain by shot of ordnance out of the Castle j so they left that rash enterprise.” In 1571, during the struggle between Kirkaldy .and the Regent Morton, this barrier gate played a prominent part. According to the “Diurnal of Qccurrents,” upon the nznd of August in that year, the Regent and the lords who adhered against the .authority of the Queen, finding that they were totally excluded from the city, marched several bands of soldiers from Leith, their head-quarters, .and concealed them under cloud of night in the I closes and houses adjoining the Nether Bow Port. At five on the following morning, when it was supposed that the night watch would be withdrawn, six soldiers, disguised as millers, approached the .gates, leading horses laden with sacks of meal, which were to be thrown down as they entered, so .as to preclude the rapid closing of them, and while they attacked and cut down the warders, with those weapon? which they wore under their disguise, the .men in ambush were to rush out to storm the -town, aided by a reserve, whom the sound of their trumpets was to summon from Holyrood. “But the eternal God,” says the quaint old journalist we quote, “ knowing the cruel1 murther that wold have beene done and committit vponn innocent poor personis of the said burgh, wold not thole this interpryse to tak successe; but evin quhen the said meill was almaist at the port, and the said men of war, stationed in clois headis, in readinesse to enter at the back of the samyne it chanced that a burgher of the Canongate, named Thomas Barrie, passed out towards his hcuse in the then separate burgh, and perceiving soldiers concealed on every hand, he returned and gave the alarm, on which the gate was at once barricaded, and the design of the Regent and his adherents baffled. This gate having become ruinous, the magis trates in 1606, three years after James VI. went to England, built a new one, of which many views are preserved. It was a handsome building, and quite enclosed the lower end of the High Street. The arch, an ellipse, was in the centre, strengthened by round towers and battlements on the eastern or external front, and in the southern tower there was a wicket for.foot passengers. On the inside of the arch were the arms of the city. The whole building was crenelated, and consisted of two lofty storeys, having in the centre a handsome square tower, terminated by ii pointed spire. It was adorned by a statue of James VI., which was thrown down and destroyed by order of Oliver Cromwell, and had on it a Latin inscription, which runs thus in English :- “Watch towers and thundr’ng walls vain fences prove No guards to monarchs like their people’s love. Jacobus VL Rex, Anna Regina, 1606.” This gate has been rendered remarkable in history by the extra-judicial bill that passed the House of Lords for razing it to theground, in consequence of the Porteous mob, For a wonder, the Scottish members made a stand in the matter, and as the general Bill, when it came to the Commons, was shorn of all its objectionable clauses, the Nether Bow Port escaped. In June, 1737, when the officials of Edinburgh, who had been taken to London for examination concerning the not, were returning, to accord them a cordial reception the citizens rode out in great troops to meet them, while for miles eastward the road was lined by pedestrians. The Lord Provost, Alexander Wilson, a modest man, eluded the ovation by taking another route ; but the rest came in triumph through the city, forming a procession of imposing length, while bonfires blazed, all the bells clanged and clashed as if a victory had been won over England, and the gates of the Nether Bow Port, which had been unhooked, were re-hung and closed amid the wildest acclamation. In 1760 the Common Council of London having obtained an Act of Parliament to remove their city gates, the magistrates of Edinburgh followed suit without any Act, and in 1764 demolished the Nether Bow Port, then one of the chief ornaments of the city, and like the unoffending Market Cross, a peculiarly interesting relic of the past. The ancient clock of its spire was afterwards placed in that old Orphan’s Hospital, near Shakespeare Square, where it remained till the removal of the latter edifice in 1845, when the North British Railway was in progress, and it is now in the pediment between the towers of the beautiful Tuscan edifice built for the orphans near the Dean cemetery. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Nether Bow. with cannon stone-shot in 1544, ere advancing ;against the Castle. “ ...

Vol. 2  p. 218 (Rel. 0.29)

North Bridge.7 . JAMES SUTHERLAND. 363 # 4 I say nothing of the cost of new plants, so difficult to procure in those non-travelling times. In the spring of 1689, during the siege of the Castle, a woeful mishap befell him. For certain strategic reasons it had been thought necessary by Sir John Lanier and other leaders to drain the North Loch, and, as the water thereof ran through the Botanic Gardens, as it had done of old through that of the Hospital, it came to pass that for several days the place was completely inundated, and when left dry was found to be covered with mud, and the rubbish of the city drains, so that nearly all the delicate and costly plants collected by Balfour, by Sibbald, and by Sutherland, were destroyed ; and it cost the latter and his assistants nearly a whole season to clear the ground, and in his distress he appealed to the Privy Council. That body considered his memorial, and the good services he was rendering, “whereby not only the young physicians, apothecaries, and chirurgeons, but also the nobility and gentry, are taught the knowledge of herbs, and also a multitude of plants, shrubs, and trees, are cultivated, which were never known in this nation before, and .more numerous,” continues the Privy Council Record, “than in any other garden in Britain, as wee1 for the’honour of the place as for the advantage -of the people.” They ‘therefore awarded him a pension of 650 yearly out of the fines accruing to them. Encouraged by this, and further aided by the Lords of the Scottish Treasury, James Sutherland, in 1695, extended his operations to a piece of ground lying between the porch of Holyrood palace and the old road to Restalrig, near where the great dial stands now, where in that year he raised “a good crop of melons,” and many “ other curious annuals, fine flowers, and other plants not ordinary in this country.” In a few years he hoped to rival London, if supplied with means to procure “reed hedges to divide, shelter, and lay the ground ‘lown,’ and warm, and a greenhouse and store to preserve oranges, myrtles, and lemons, with other tender plants and fine exotics in winter.” He entreated the Lords of Council to further aid him, ‘‘ without which the work must cease, and the petitioner suffer in reputation and interest, what he is doing being more for the honour of the nation, and the ornament and use of his majesty’s palace, than his own private behoof.“ This place remained still garden ground till about the time of Queen Victoria’s first visit, when the new north approach to the palace was run through it. James Sutherland is supposed to have died about 1705, when his collection of Greek, Roman, Scottish, Saxon, and English coins and medals, was purchased by the Faculty of Advocates, and is still preserved in their library. The old Physic Garden, which had been his own, eastward of the bridge, continued to be used as such till the time when the chair of botany was’ occupied by Dr. John Hope, who was born at Edinburgh in 1725, and was the grandson of Sir Alexander Hope, Lord Rankeillor. On the 13th April, 1761, he was appointed king’s botanist for Scotland, and elected a few days after, by the town council, Professor of materia medica, and of botany, He was the first who introduced into Scotland the Linnean system; and in 1768 he resigned the professorship of materia medica, that, in the end, he might devote himself exclusively to botany, and his exertions in promoting the study of it in Edinburgh were attended with the most beneficial results. His immediate predecessor, Dr. Alston, was violently opposed to the Linnean system, against which he published an essay in ‘751. It was in the humble garden near the Trinity College that he taught his students, and, for the. purpose of exciting emulation among them, he annually, towards the close of the session, gave a beautiful medal to the student who had displayed most diligence and zeal in his studies. It was inscribed-“ A cedro hyysopum usque. J. HOPE, Bot. Pro$, dal . . . ’I In Kay’s portraits we have a clever etching of the Professor superintending hisgardeners, in a roquelaure and cocked hat. Besides some useful manuals for facilitating the acquisition of botany by his students, two valuable dissertations by him, the one on the ‘‘Rhtzun Palmaturn,” and the other on the ‘‘ Fer& AssafkMu,” were published by him in the “Philosophical Transactions.” Finding that the ancient garden was unsuited to advancing science, he used every exertion to have it removed to a more favourable situation, To further his objects the Lords of the Treasury granted him, says Arnot, ‘‘;GI,~~o IS. z+d. to make it, and for its annual support the sum of A69 3s. At the same time the magistrates and town council granted the sum of A25 annually for paying the rent of the ground.” The place chosen was on the west side of Leith Walk. It was laid out under the eye of Professor Hope, who died in November, 1786. After the formation of the new garden, the old one was completely abandoned about 1770, and continued. to be a species of desolate waste ground, enclosed by a rusty iron railing, with here and there an old tree dying of neglect and decay, till at length innovations swept it away. ... Bridge.7 . JAMES SUTHERLAND. 363 # 4 I say nothing of the cost of new plants, so difficult to procure in ...

Vol. 2  p. 363 (Rel. 0.29)

ns and howitzers on the bastions of the latter and the Calton Hill. The sharp encounter there, and at St. Leonard’s Hill, in both of which he was completely repulsed, are apart from the history of the fortress, from the ramparts of which the young king Charles 11. witnessed them; but the battle of Dunbar subsequently placed all the south of Scotland at the power of Cromwell, when he was in desperation about returning for England, the Scots having cut off his retreat. On the 7th September, 1650, he entered Edinburgh, and placed it under martial law, enforcing the most rigid regulations; yet the people had nothing to complain of, and justice was impartially administered. He took up his residence at the Earl of Moray’s house-that stately edifice on the south side of the Canongate-and quartered his soldiers in Holyrood and the city; but his guard, or outlying picket, was in Dunbar’s Close-so named from the victors of Dunbar ; and tradition records that a handsome old house at the foot of Sellars Close was occasionally occupied by him while pressing the siege of the Castle, which was then full of those fugitive preachers whose interference had caused the ruin of Leslie’s army. With them he engaged in a curious polemical discussion, and is said by Pinkerton to have preached in St. Giles’s churchyard to the people. To facilitate the blockade he demolished the ancient Weigh House, which was not replaced @ill after the Restoration. He threw UP batteries at Heriot’s Hospital, which was full of his wounded ; on the north bank of the loch, and the stone bartisan of Davidson’s house on the Castle Hill. He hanged in view of the Castle, a poor old gardener who had supplied Dundas with some information ; and during these operations, Nicoll, the diarist, records that there were many slain, “ both be schot of canoun and musket, as weell Scottis as Inglische.” Though the garrison received a good supply of provisions, by the bravery of Captain Augustine, a German soldier of fortune who served in the Scottish army, and who hewed a passage into the fortress through Cromwell’s guards, at the head of 120 horse, Dundas, when tampered with, was cold in his defence. Cromwell pressed the siege with vigour. He mustered colliers from the adjacent country, and forced them, under fire, to work at a mine on the south side, near the new Castle road, where it can still’be seen in the freestone rock. Dundas, a traitor from the first, now lost all heart, and came to terms with Cromwell, to whom he capitulated on the 12th of December, 1650.* 1 * The articles of the treaty and the list of the captured guns arc given at length in Balfour‘s ‘‘AM&” Exactly as St. Giles’s clock struck twelve the garrison marched ‘ out, with drums beating and colours flying, after which the Castle was garrisoned by “ English blasphemers ” (as the Scots called them) under Colonel George Fenwick. Cromwell, in reporting all this to the English Parliament, says :-‘; I think I need say little of the strength of this place, which, if it had not come as it did, would have cost much blood. . . . I must needs say, not any skill or wisdom of ours, but the good will of God hatli given you this place.” By the second article of the treaty the records of Scotland n-ere transmitted to Stirling, on the capture of which they were sent in many hogsheads to London, and lost at sea when being sent back, Dundas was arraigned before the Parliament, and his reputation was never freed from the stain cast upon it by the capitulation; and Sir Janies Balfour, his contemporary, plainly calls him a base, cowardly, ‘‘ traitorous villane ! ” Cromwell defaced the royal arms at the Castle gate and elsewhere ; yet his second in command, Monk, was f2ted at a banquet by the magistrates, when, on the 4th May, 1652, he was proclaimed Protector of the Commonwealth. At first brawls were frequent, and English soldiers were cut off on every available occasion. One day in the High Street, an officer came from Cromwell’s house “in great says Patrick Gordon, and as he mounted his horse, mhly &d aloud, “ With my own hands I killed the Scot to whom this horse and these pistols belonged. Who dare say I wronged him?” ccI dare, and thus avenge him !” exclaimed one who stood near, and, running the Englishman through the body, mounted his horse, dashed through the nearest gate, and escaped into the fields. For ten years there was perfect peace in Edin. burgh, and stage coaches began to run every three weeks between it and the “George Inn, without Aldersgate, London,” for A4 10s. a seat. Iambert’s officers preached in the High Kirk, and buffcoated troopers taught and expounded in the Parliament House; and so acceptable became the sway of the Protector to civic rulers that they had just proposed to erect acolossal stone monument in his honour, when the Restoration came ! It was hailed with the wildest joy by all the Scottish people. The cross of Edinburgh was garlanded with flowers ; its fountains ran with wine ; 300 dozen of glasses were broken there, in drinking to the health of His Sacred Majesty and the perdition of Cromwell, who in effigy wa- 5 consigned to the devil. Banquets were given, and salutes fired from the Castle, where Mons Meg was ... and howitzers on the bastions of the latter and the Calton Hill. The sharp encounter there, and at St. ...

Vol. 1  p. 55 (Rel. 0.29)

210 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. likely to have arisen. It happened by accident that the Earl of Bothwell, coming out of the Earl of Crawford’s lodging, was met by the Earl of Marr, who was coming out of the Laird of Lochleven’s lodging hard by; as it being about ten o’clock at night, and so dark that they could not know one another, he passed by, not knowing that the Master of Glammis was there, but thinking it was only the Earl of Marr. However, it was said that some ambushment of men and hackbuttiers had been duressed in the house by command of both parties.” Some brawl or tragedy had evidently been on the tapis, for next day the king had the Earl of Bothwell and the Master before him at Holyrood, and committed the former to ward .in the Palace of Linlithgow, and the latter in the Castle of Edinburgh, “ for having a band of hacquebuttiers in ambush with treasonable intent.” Passing to more peaceable times, on the same side of the street, we come to one of the most picturesque edifices in it, numbered as 155 (and nearly opposite Niddry Street), in which Allan Ramsay resided and began his earlier labours, “at the sign of the Mercury,” before he removed, in 1726, to the shop in the Luckenbooths, where we saw him last. It is an ancient timber-fronted land, the sinplarly picturesque aspect of which was much marred by some alterations in 1845, but herein worthy Allan first prosecuted his joint labours of author, editor, and bookseller. From this place he issued his poems in single or half sheets, as they were mitten ; but in whatever shape they always found a ready sale, the citizens being wont to send their children with a penny for “ Allan Ramsay’s last piece.” Here it was, that in 1724 he published the first volume of “The Tea Table Miscellany,” a collection of songs, Scottish and English, dedicated “ To ilka lovely British lass, Frae Ladies Charlotte, Anne and Jean, Wha dances barefoot on the green.” This publication ran through twelve editions, and its early success induced him in the same year to bring out “ The Evergreen,” a collection of Scottish poems, ‘‘ wrote by the Ingenious before 1600,” professed to be selected from the Bannatyne MSS. And here it was that .Ramsay- had some of his hard struggles with the magistrates and clergy, who deemed and denounced all light literature, songs, and plays, as frivolity and open profanity, in She sour fanatical spirit of the age. Doon to ilk bonny singing Bess Religion, in form, entered more into the daily habits of the Scottish people down to 1730 than it now does. Apart from regular attendance at church, and daily family worship, each house had some species of oratory, wherein, according to the Domestic Annals, “ the head of the family could at stated times retire for his private devotions, which were usually of a protracted kind, and often accompanied by great moanings and groanings, expressive of an intense sense of human worthlessness without the divine favour.” Twelve o’clock was the hour for the cold Sunday dinner. (‘ Nicety and love of rich feeding were understood to be the hateful peculiarities of the English, and unworthy of the people who had been so much more favoured by God in the knowledge of matters of higher concern.” Puritanic rigour seemed to be destruction for literature, and when Addison, Steele, and Pope, were conferring glory on that of England, Scotland had scarcely a writer of note ; and Allan Ramsay, in fear and trembling of legal and clerical censure, lent out the plays of Congreve and Farquhar from that quaint old edifice numbered 155, High Street. The town residence of the Ancrum family was long one of the finest specimens of the timberfronted tenements of the High Street. It stood on the north side, at the head of Trunk‘s Close, behind the Fountain Well, and though it included several rooms with finely-stuccoed ceilings, and a large hall, beautifully decorated with rich pilasters and oak panelling-and was undoubtedly worthy of being preserved-it was demolished in 1873. Here was the first residence of Scott of Kirkstyle, who, in 1670, obtained a charter under the great seal of the barony of Ancrum, and in the following year was created Sir John Scott, Baronet, by Charles 11. In 1703 the house passed into the possession of Sir Gilbert Elliot, Bart., of Stobs, who resided here with his eight sons, the youngest of whom, for his glorious defence of Gibraltar, was created Lord Heathfield in 1787. On the same side of the street, Archibald Constable, perhaps the most eminent publisher that Scotland has produced, began business in a small shop, in the year 1795, and from there, in the November .of that year, he issued the first of that series of sale catalogues of curious and rare books, which he continued for a few years to issue at intervals, and which attracted to his shop all the bibliographers and lovers of literature in Edinburgh. Hither came, almost daily, such men as Richard Heber, afterwards M.P. for the University of ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. likely to have arisen. It happened by accident that the Earl of ...

Vol. 2  p. 210 (Rel. 0.29)

High Street. NIDDRY’S WYND. 245 to protect the powdered head of loftily-dressed hair, when walking or driving, and it could be folded back flat like the hood of a carriage ; they also wore the capuchin or short cloak tippet, reaching to the elbows, usually of silk. trimmed with velvet or lace. In walking, they camed the skirt of the long gown over one arm, a necessary precaution in the wynds and closes of 1750, as well as to display the rich petticoat below ; but on .entering a room, the full train swept majestically behind them ; and their stays were SO long, as to touch the chair before and behind when seated. The vast hoops proved a serious inconvenience in the turnpike stairs of the Old Town, when, as ladies had to tilt them up, it wa5 absolutely necessary to have a fine show petticoat beneath; and we are told that such ‘‘ care was taken of appear- .ances, that even the gartxs were worn fine, being either embroidered, or having gold or silver fringes and tassels. , . . Plaids were worn by ladies to cover their heads and muffle their faces when they went into the street ; ” and we have already shown how vain were the fulniinations of magistrates .against the latter fzshion. In 1733 the silk stockings worn by ladies and gentlemen were so thick, and so heavily adorned with gold and silver, that they could rarely be washed perhaps more than once. The Scottish ladies used enormous Dutch fans ; and all women high and low ,wore prodigious busks. Below the Old Assembly Close is one named from the Covenant, that great national document and solemn protest against interference with the Teligion of a free people having been placed for signature at a period after 1638 in an old mansion long afterwards used as a tavern at the foot of the alley. Lower down we come to Bell’s Wynd, 146, High Street, which contained another Assembly Room, for the Edinburgh fashionables, removed thither, in 1758, to a more commodious hall, and there the weekly reunions and other balls were held in the season, until the erection of the new hall in George Street. Hair Street, and Hunter’s Square, which was built in 1788, occasioned the removal of more than one old alley that led down southward to the Cowgate, among them were Marlin’s and Peebles’ Wynds, to which we shall refer when treating of the North and South Bridges. The first tenement of the former at the right corner, descending, marks the site of Kennedy’s Close, on the first floor of the first turnpike on the left hand, wherein George Buchanan, the historian and poet, died in his 76th year, on the morning of Friday the 28th of September, 1582, and from whence he was borne to his last home in the Greyfkiars’ churchyard. The last weeks of his life were spent, it is alleged, in the final correction of the proofs of his history, equally remarkable for its pure Latinity and for its partisan spirit. He survived its appearance only a month. When on his death-bed, finding that all the money he had about him was insufficient to defray the expense of his funeral, he ordered his servant to divide it among the poor, adding “that if the city did not choose to bury him they might let him lie where he was.” The site of his grave is now unknown, though a “throchstone ” would seem to have marked it so lately as 1710. A skull, believed to be that of Buchanan, is preserved in the hluseum of the University, and is so remarkably thin as to be transparent; but the evidence in favour of the tradition, though not conclusive, does not render its truth improbable. From the Council Records in 1701, it would seem that Buchanan’s gravestone had sunk into the earth, and had gradually been covered up. In the En’inburph Magazine for 1788 we are told that the areas of some of the demolished closes westward of the Tron Church and facing Blair Street, were exposed for sale in April, and that ‘‘ the first lot immediately west of the new opening sold for _f;z,ooo, and that to the southward for A1,500, being the upset price of both.” Niddry’s Street, which opens eastward of the South Bridge, occupies the site of Niddry’s Wynd, an ancient thoroughfare, which bore an important part in the history of the city. “ It is well known,” says Wilson, “ that King James VI. was very condescending in his favours to his loyal citizens of Edinburgh, making no scruple, when the larder of Holyrood grew lean, and the privy purse was exhausted, to give up housekeeping for a time, and honour one or other of the substantial burghers of his capital with a visit of himself and household ; or when the straitened mansions within the closes of old Edinburgh proved insufficient singly to accommodate the hungry train of courtiers, he would very considerately distribute his favours through the whole length of tlie close ! ” Thus from Moyse’s (or Moyses’) Memoirs, page I 82, we learn that when James was troubled by the Earl of Bothwell in January, 1591, and ordered Sir James Sandilands to apprehend him, he, with the Queen and Chancellor (and theirsuiteof course), “withdrew themselves within the town of Edinburgh, and lodged themselves in Nicol Edward’s house, in Niddry’s Wynd, and the Chancellor in ... Street. NIDDRY’S WYND. 245 to protect the powdered head of loftily-dressed hair, when walking or driving, ...

Vol. 2  p. 245 (Rel. 0.29)

98 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [WaniStolL The cost to the Government of fencing in the -ground, planting, &c., up to May, 1881, was A6,000, while the purchase of Inverleith House entailed a further expenditure ot &$,g50. In the garden are several fine memorial trees, planted by the late Prince Consort, the Prince of Wales, the Duke of Edinburgh, and others. Mr. James M‘NabwaslongtheCuratoroftheRoyal I Botanic Gardens, and till his death, in November, 1878, was intimately associated with its care and, progress. The sou of William M‘Nab, gardener, a native of Ayrshire, he was born in April, 1814, and five weeks later his father was appointed Curator of the Edinburgh Botanic Garden in Leith Walk. On leaving school James adopted the profession of his father, and for twelve consecutive years worked in the garden as apprentice, journeyman, and foreman, from first to last con urnore, gaining a thorough knowledge of botany and arboriculture, and, by a variety of experiments, of the best modes of heating greenhouses. In 1834 he visited the United States and Canada, and the results of his observktions in those countries appeared in the “Edinburgh Philosophical Journal” for 1835, and the “ Transactions ” of the Botanical Society. On the death of his father in December, 1848, after thirty-eight years’ superintendence of the Botanic Garden, Mr. James M‘Nab was appointed to the Curatorship by the Regius Professor, Dr. Balfour. At that time the garzen did not consist of more than fourteen imperial acres, but after a time two more acres were added, and these were planted and laid out by Mr. M‘Nab. A few years after the experimental garden of ten acres was added to the original ground, and planted with conifers and other kinds of evergreens. The rockery was now formed, with 5,442 compartments for the cultivation of alpine and dwarf herbaceous plants. Mr. M‘Nab was a frequent contributor to horticultural .and other periodicals, his writings including papers, not only on botanical subjects, but on landscapegardening, arboriculture, and vegetable climatology. He was one of the original members of the Edinburgh Botanical Society, founded in 1836, and in 1872 was elected President, a position rarely, if ever, held by a practical gardener. In 1873 he delivered his presidential address on “ The effects of climate during the last half century on the tultivation of plants in the Botanic Garden of Edinburgh, and elsewhere in Scotland,” a subject which excited a great deal of discussion, the writer having adduced facts to show that a change had taken place in our climate within the period given. Few men of his time possessed a more thorough know!edge of his profession in all its . departments, and to his loving care and enthusiasm it is owing that the Botanic Garden of Edinburgh is now second to none. On the east side of Inverleith Row lies the ancient estate of Warriston, which has changed proprietors quite as often as the patrimony of the Touris and Rocheids. Early in the sixteenth century Warriston bglonged to a family named Somerville, whose residence crowned the gentle eminence where now the modem mansion stands. It must, like the house of h e r - leith, have formed a conspicuous object from the once open, and perhaps desolate, expanse of Wardie Muir, that lay between it and the Firth of Forth. From Pitcairn’s “ Criminal Trials ” it would a p pear that on the 10th of July, 1579, the house or fortalice at Wamston was besieged by the Dalmahoys of that ilk, the Rocheids and others, when it was the dwelling-place of William Somerville. They were “pursued” for this outrage, but were acquitted of it and of the charge of shooting pistolettes and wounding Barbara Barrie. By 1581 it had passed into the possession of the Kincaids, and while theirs was the scene of a dreadful tragedy. Before the Lords of the Council in that year a complaint was lodged by John Kincaid, James Bellenden of Pendreich, and James Bellenden of Backspittal, “ all heritable feuars of the lands of Waristown,” against Adani Bishop of Orkney, as Commendator of Holyrood, who had obtained an Act of the Secret Council to levy certain taxes on their land which they deemed unjust or exorbitant ; and similar complaints against the same prelate were made by the feuar of abbey land at St. Leonard‘s. The complainers pleaded that they were not justly indebted for any part of the said tax, as none of them were freeholders, vassals, or sub-vassals, but feuars only, subject to their feu-duties, at two particular terms, in the year. Before the Council again, in 1583, John Kincaid of Warriston, and Robert Monypenny of Pilrig, a p peared as caution for certain feuars in Broughton, in reference to another monetary dispute with the same prelate. In I 591, Jean Ramsay, Lady Warriston, probably of the same family, was forcibly abducted by Robert Cairncross (known as hleikle Hob) and three other men, in the month of March, for which they were captured and tried. The year 1600 brings us to the horrible tragedy to which reference was made above in passing. John Kincaid of Warriston was married to a very handsome young woman named Jean Livingston, the daughter of a man of fortune and good ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [WaniStolL The cost to the Government of fencing in the -ground, planting, &c., up ...

Vol. 5  p. 98 (Rel. 0.29)

254 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. The first volume of the ‘‘ Parochial Records ” begins in January, 1605, a year before the Act, and contains the usual memoranda of petty tyranny peculiar to the times, such as the following, modernised :- “ Compeared Margaret Siclair, being cited by the Session of the Kirk, and being accused of being at the Bume (for water?) the last Sabbath before sermon, confessed, her offence, promised amendment in all time coming, and was convict of five pounds.” ‘‘ 10th January, 1605 :-The which day the Session of the Kirk ordained Janet Merling, and Margaret Cook, her mother, to make their public repentance next Sabbath forenoon publicly, for concealing a bairn unbaptised in her house for the space of twenty weeks, and calling the said bairn Janet.” “January ~oth, 1605 :-Cornpeared Marion Anderson, accused of craving curses and malisons on the pastor and his family, without any offence being done by him to her ; and the Session, understanding that she had been banished before for being in a lodge on the Links in time of the Plague, with one Thomas Cooper, sclaiter, after ane maist slanderous manner, the said Marion was ordained to go to the place of her offence, confess her sin, and crave mercy of God,” and never to be found within the bounds of North Leith, “under the pain of putting her toties puoh’es in the jogis,” Le., jougs. In 1609 Patrick Richardson had to crave mercy of God for being found in his boat in time of afternoon sermon ; and many other instances of the same kind are quoted by Robertson in his “Antiquities.” In the same year, Janet Walker, accused of having strangers (visitors) in her house on Sabbath in time of sermon, had to confess her offence, and on her knees crave mercy of God and the Kirk Session, under penalty of a hundred pounds Scots ! George Wishart, so well known as author of the elegant ‘‘ Latin Memoirs of Montrose,” a copy of which was suspended at the neck of that great cavalier and soldier at his execution in 1650, was appointed minister of North Leith in 1638, when the signing of the Covenant, as a protection against England and the king, became almost necessarily the established test of faith and allegiance to Scotland. Deposed for refusing to subscribe it, Wishart was thrown into a dungeon of the old Heart of Midlothian, in consequence of the discovery of his secret correspondence with the king‘s party. He survived the storm of the Civil Wars, and was made Bishop of Edinburgh on the reestablishment of episcopacy. He died in 1671, in his seventy-first year, and was buried in Holyrood, where his tomb is still to be seen, with an inscription so long that it amounts to a species of biography. John Knox, minister of North Leith, was, in 1684, committed to the Bass Rock. While a probationer, he was in the Scottish army, and chaplain to the garrison in Tantallon when it was besieged by Cromwell’s troops. He conveyed the Earl of Angus and some ladies privately in a boat to North Berwick, and returned secretly to the Castle, and was taken prisoner when it capitulated. He was a confidant of the exiled monarch, and supplied him with money. A curious mendicant letter to him from His Majesty is given in the “Scots Worthies.” 4 The last minister who officiated in the Church of St. Ninian-now degraded to a granary or store -was the venerable Dr. Johnston, the joint founder of the Edinburgh Blind Asylum, who held the incumbency for more than half a century. The old edifice had become unsuited to modem requirements ; thus the foundation of a new parish church for North Leith had been completed elsewhere in 1816, and on the zgthof August in that year he took a very affecting leave of the old parish church in which he had officiated so long. ‘‘ He expressed sentiments of warm attachment to a flock among which Providence had so long permitted him to minister,” says the Scofs Magazine (Vol. LXXVII.); “and in alluding, with much feeling, to his own advanced age, mentioned his entire sensibility of the approach of that period when the speaker and the hearer should no longer dwell together, and hoped they should ultimately rejoice in ‘ a house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens.’ ’’ Before ten a.m. on the 1st September a great crowd collected before the door of the new church, which was speedily filled. All corporate bodies having an interest in it, including the magistrates of the Canongate, were present, and Dr. Johnston, after reading the 6th chapter of z Chronicles, delivered a sermon and solemn address, which affected all who heard it. The Rev. David Johnston, D.D., died on the 5th of July, 1824, aged ninety-one years. Four years after, the Cowant had the following announcement :-“ The public are aware of the many claims which the late Dr. Johnston of North Leith had on the grateful remembrance of the community. Few men have exerted themselves so assiduously in forwarding the great objects of religion and philanthropy, and it gives us much pleasure to learn that a, well-merited tribute to his memory has just been completed in the erection of a beautiful bust in the church of North Leith. The follow ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. The first volume of the ‘‘ Parochial Records ” begins in January, 1605, ...

Vol. 6  p. 254 (Rel. 0.29)

OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [South Bridge. . . .~ 374 in 1765, and two ancient thoroughfares, the Wynds of Marlin and Peebles, with the east side of Niddry’s Wynd. In Queen Mary’s time the corn-market was removed from the corner of Marlin’s Wynd to the , east end of the Grass-market, where it continued to ’ be held till the present century. This wynd led to the poultry-market, and ran south from the back of the Tron church to the Cowgate, and at the time of its demolition contained many book shops and stalls, the favourite lounge of all collectors of rare volumes, and had connected with it a curious legend, recorded by Maitland’s History in 1753. John Marlin, a Frenchman, is said to have been the first who was employed to pave or causeway the High Street, and was so vain of his work that, as a monument to bis memory, he requested to be buried under it,’ and he was accordingly buried at the head of the wynd, which from that time took his name. The tradition was further supplemented by the fact that till the demolition of the wynd, a space in the pavement at that spot was always marked by six flat stones in the form of a grave. ‘’ According to more authentic information,” says Chambers, “the High Street was first paved in 1532, by John and Bartoulme Foliot, who appear to have had nothing in common with this legendary Marlin, except country. The grave of at least Bartoulme Foliot is distinctly marked by a flat monument in the chapel royal at Holyrood.” The pavior’s name is perhaps not quite “ legendary” after all, as in the accounts of the Lord High Treasurer we have a sum stated as being paid to John Merlyoune,” in 1542, for building a Register House in the Castle of Edinburgh. The father of Sir William Stirling, Eart., who was Lord Provost of the city in 1792, and who had the merit of being the architect of his own fortunes, was a fishmonger at the head of the wynd, where his sign, a large clumsy wooden black bull, now preserved as a relic in the Museum of Antiquities, was long a conspicuous object as it projected over the narrow way. , It was at the head of Peebles Wynd, the adjoining thoroughfare, in 1598, that Robert Cathcart, who ten years before had been with Eothwell, when tlie latter slew Sir William Stewart in Blackfriars Wynd, was slain by the son of the latter, according to Birrel. During the demolitions for the projected bridge an ancient seal of block-tin was found, of which an engraving is given in the GenfZeman’s Mugaazine for 1788, which says: “ I t is supposed to .be the arms of Arnof and is a specimen of the ,seals used for writings, imprkions of which were directed to be given to the sheriffs’ clerks of the different counties in Scotland in the time of Queen blary.” In digging the foundation of the central pier, which was no less than twenty-two feet deep, many coins of the three first English Edwards were found. The old buildings, which were removed to make room for this public work, were, according to Stark, purchased at a trifling cost, their value being fixed by the verdict of juries, while the areas on which they stood were sold by the city for the erection of new buildings on each side of the bridge for A30,ooo. “It has been remarked,” he adds, “ that on this occasion the ground sold higher in Edinburgh than perhaps ever was known in any city, even in Rome, during its most flourishing times. Some of the areas sold at the rate of A96,ooo per statute acre ; others at AIO~,OOO per ditto; and some even so high as ~150,000 per acre.” The foundation stone of the bridge was laid on the 1st of August, 1785, by George Lord Haddo, Grand Master Mason of Scotland, attended by the brethren of all the lodges in town, and the magistrates and council in their robes, who walked in procession from the Parliament House, escorted by the soldiers of the City Guard-those grim old warriors, who, says Imd Cockburn, “ had muskets and bayonets, but rarely used them.” The bridge was carried on with uncommon dispatch, and was open for foot-passengers on the 19th of November, 1786, but only partially, for the author above quoted mentions that when he first went to the old High School, in 1787, he crossed the arches upon planks. In the following year it was open for carriages. It consists of nineteen arches. That over the Cowgate is thirty-one feet high by thirty wide; the others, namely, seven on the south and eleven on the north, are concealed by the buildings erected and forming it into a street. From the plan and section published by the magistrates at the time, it would appear that the descent from Nicolscrn Street is one foot in twenty-two to the south pier of the Cowgate arch ; and from thence on the north, the ascent to the High Street is one foot in twenty-eight. From the latter to the southern end, where the town wall stood, extends South Bridge Street, “in length 1,075 feet by fifty-five wide,” says, Kincaid, “ including the pavement on each side.” The drst house built here was that numbered as I, forming the corner building at the junction with the High Street. It was erected by Mr. James Cooper, a jeweller, who resided in the upper flat, and died in ISIS. Except at the central arch, which spans the ... AND NEW EDINEURGH. [South Bridge. . . .~ 374 in 1765, and two ancient thoroughfares, the Wynds of Marlin and ...

Vol. 2  p. 374 (Rel. 0.29)

162 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Parliament HOUSC to the High Street scarcely one stone was left upon another. ‘( The Parliament House very hardly escapt,” he continues, “ all registers confounded ; clerks, chambers, and processes, in such a confusion, that the lords and officers of state are just now met in Rosse’s taverne in order to adjourning of the sessione by reason of the disorder. Few people are lost, if any at all ; but there was neither heart nor hand left amongst them for saveing from the fyre, nor a drop of water in the cisterns; 20,ooo hands flitting their trash they knew not wher, and hardly 20 at work; these babells of ten and fourteen story high, are down to the ground, and their fall very terrible. Many rueful spectacles, such as Crossrig, naked, with a child under his oxter, hopping for his lyffe; the Fish Mercate, and all from the Cowgate to Pett-streets Close, burnt ; the Exchange, vaults and coal-cellars under the Parliament Close, are still burning.” Many of the houses that were burned on this occasion were fourteen storeys in height, seven of which were below the level of the Close on the south side. These Souses had been built about twenty years before, by Thomas Robertson, brewer, a thriving citizen, whose tomb in the Greyfriars’ Churchyard had an inscription, given. in Monteith’s Theatre of Mortality, describing him as “remarkable for piety towards God, loyalty to his king, and love to his country.” He had given the Covenant out of his hand to be burned at the Cross in 1661 on the Restoration ; and now it was remembered exultingly “ that God in his providence had sent a burning among his lands.” But Robertson was beyond the rexh of earthly retribution, as his tomb bears that he died on the zIst of September, r686, in the 63rd year of his age, with the addendum, Yivit postfunera virtus- (‘ Virtue survives the grave.” Before we come to record the great national tragedy which the Parliament House witnessed in 1707-for a tragedy it w3s then deemed by the Scottish people-it may be interesting to describe the yearly ceremony, called the Riding of the Parliament,” in state, from the Palace to the Hall, as described by Arnot and others, on the 6th of May, 1703. The central streets of the city and Canongate, being cleared of all vehicles, and a lane formed by their being inrailed on both sides, none were permitted to enter but those who formed the procession, or were officers of the Scottish regulars, and the trained bands in full uniform. Outside these rails the streets were lined by the porch westwards ; next in order stood the Scottish Foot Guards (two battalions, then as now), under Zeneral Sir George Ramsay, up to the Netherbow Port ; from thence to the Parliament House, and :o the bar thereof, the street was lined by the :rained bands of the city, the Lord High Constable’s Guards, and those of the Earl Marischal. rhe former official being seated in an arm-chair, at :he door of the House, received the officers, while :he members being assembled at the Palace of Holyrood, were then summoned by name, by the Lord Clerk Registrar, the Lord Lyon King of Arms, and the heralds, with trumpets sounding, ifter which the procession began, thus :- Two mounted trumpeters, with coats and banners, bareheaded. Two pursuivants in coats and foot mantles, ditto. Sixty-three Commissioners for burghs on horseback, two ind two, each having a lackey on foot j the odd number Nalking alone. Seventy-seven Commissioners for shires, mounted and :overed, each having two lackeys on foot. Fifty-one Lord Barons in their robes, riding two and two, :ach having a gentleman to support his train, and three ackeys on foot, wearing above their liveries velvet coats with the arms of their respective Lords on the breast and lack embossed on plate, or embroidered in gold or silver. Nineteen Viscounts ils the former. Sixty Earls as the former. Four trumpeters, two and two. Four pursuivants, two and two. The heralds, Islay, Ross, Rothesay, Albany, Snowdon, md Marchmont, in their tabards, two and two, bareheaded. The Lord Lyon King at Arms, in his tabard, with chain, obe, bfiton, and foot mantle. The Sword of State, born by the Earl of Mar. +I The Sceptre, borne by the Earl of Crawford. 8 Borne by the Earl of Forfar. b The purse and commission, borne by the Earl of g 0 Morton. 6 d THE CROWN, THE DUKE OF QUEENSBERRY, LORD HIGH $ s COMMISSIONER, With his servants, pages, and footmen. Four Dukes, two and two. Gentlemen bearing their trains, and each having eight Six Marquises, each having six lackeys. The Duke of Argyle, Colonel of the Horse Guards. A squadron of Horse Guards. The Lord High Commissioner was received ;here, at the door of the House, by the Lord High Constable and the Earl Marischal, between whom he was led to the throne, followed by the Usher of the White Rod, while, amid the blowing 3f trumpets, the regalia were laid upon the table before it. The year I 706, before the assembling of the last Parliament. in the old hall, was peculiarly favourable lackeys. Scottish Hcrrse Gremdier Guards, from the Palace to any attempt for the then exiled House of Stuart ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Parliament HOUSC to the High Street scarcely one stone was left upon another. ‘( ...

Vol. 1  p. 162 (Rel. 0.29)

946 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith The Old and New Ship are good examples of what these old taverns were, as they still exhibit without change, their great staircases and walls of enormous thickness, large but cosy rooms, panelled with moulded wainscot, and quaint stone fire-places, that, could they speak, might tell many a tale of perils in the Baltic and on the shores of Holland, France, and Denmark, and of the days when Leith ships often sailed to Tangiers, and of many a deep carouse, when nearly all foreign wines came almost without duty to the port of Leith. In 1700 the price of 400 oysters at Leith was only 6s. 8d. Scots, as appears from the Abbey House-bookof the Dukeof Queensberry, when High Commissioner at Holyrood, quoted in the “ Scottish Register,” Vol. I. ; and chocolate seems to have been then known in Scotland, but, as it is only mentioned once or twice, it must have been extremely rare; while tea or coffee are not mentioned at all, and what was used by the opulent Scots of that period would appear from the morning meal provided on different days, thus :- “One syde of lamb, and two salmon grilses ; One quarter of mutton, and two salmon grilses ; One syde of lamb, four pidgeons ; One quarter mutton, five chickens ; One quarter mutton, two rabbits.” The modem markets of Leith occupied the sites of the old custom-house and excise office near the new gaol in the Tolbooth Wynd, were commodious and creditable in appearance, covered a space 140 feet by 120, and had their areas surrounded with neatly constructed stalls. They were long, but vainly, demanded by the inhabitants from the jealous Corporation 6f Edinburgh, who had full power to promote or forbid their erection. In 1818 they were eventually reared by the impelling influence of a voluntary subscription, and by means of a compromise which subjected them ‘to feu duties to Edinburgh of A219 yearly; but ‘they do not now exist, having beeh partly built I., The‘Coal Hill adjoins the Shore on the south, and ‘ here it is that, in a squalid and degraded quarter, ’but immediately facing the river, we find one of .the most remarkable features in Leith-a building . to which allusion has not unfrequehtly been made in our historical survey of Leith-the old Council Chamber wherein the Earls of Lennox, Mar, and Morton, plotted, in succession, their treasons against the Crown. Five storeys in height, and all built of polished ashlar, with two handsome string mouldings, it presents on its western front two gables, and a double over by other erections. window projected on three large corbels j on the north it has dormer windows, only one of which retains its half-circular gablet j and a massive outside chimney-stack. This is believed to have been the building which Maitland describes as having been erected by Mary of Lorraine as the meeting-place of her privy council. It is a spacious and stately fabric, presenting still numerous evidences of ancient magnificence in its internal decorations ; and only a few pears ago some very fine samples of old oak carving were removed from it, and even a beautifully decorated chair remained, till recently, an heir-loom, bequeathed by its patrician occupants to the humble tenants of the degraded mansion. Campbell, in his “ History of Leith,” says that it “ still (in 1827) exhibits many traces of splendours nothing short of regal.. Amongst these are some old oaken chairs, on which are carved, though clumsily, crowns, sceptres, and other royal insignia. The whole building, in short, both from its superior external appearance and the elegance of its interior decorations, is altogether remarkable. Every apartment is carefully, and, according to the taste of the times, elaborately adorned with ornamental workmanship of various kinds on the ceiling, walls, cornices, and above the fire-places. In one chamber, the ceiling, which is of a pentagonal form, and composed of wood, is covered with the representation of birds, beasts, fishes, &c These, however, are now so much obscured by smoke and dirt as to be traced with difficulty. . . . . Not the least remarkable part of this structure is the unusually broad and commodious flight of stairs by which its different flafs are entered from the street, and which, differing in this respect so much from most other houses, sufficiently establishes the fact of its having been once a mansion of no ordinary character.” Of all the decoration which Campbell refers to but slender traces now remain. A writer on Leith and its antiquities has striven to make-this place a residence of Mary, the Queen Regent ; but Wilson expresses himself as baffled in all his attempts to obtain any proof that it ever wag so. ‘‘ Mary,” says Maitland, ‘( having begun to build in the town of Leith, was followed therein by divers of the nobility, bishops, and other persons of distinction of her party, several of whose houses are still remaining, as may be seen in sundry places by their spacious rooms, lofty ceilings, large staircases, and private oratories, or chapels for the celebration of mass.“ But the occupation of Leith by these dignitaries was of a very temporary and strictly military nature. In 1571, when head-quarters were established in ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith The Old and New Ship are good examples of what these old taverns were, as they ...

Vol. 6  p. 246 (Rel. 0.29)

238 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. other, Willielmina, became the wife of John Lord Glenorchy. The fate of the Earl of Sutherland, and of his countess, whose beauty excited the admiration of all at the coronation of George III., was a very cloudy one. In frolicking with their first-born, a daughter, the earl let the infant drop, and it sustained injuries from which it never recovered, and the event had so serious an effect on his mind, that he resorted to Bath, where he died of a malignant fever. For twenty-one days the countess, then about to have a babe again, attended him unremittingly, till she too caught the distemper, and predeceased him by a few days, in her twenty-sixth year. Her death was sedulously concealed from him, yet the day before he expired, when delirium passed away, he said, I am going to join my dear Wife,” as if his mind had already begun to penetrate the veil that hangs between this world and the next. In one grave in Holyrood, near the north-east corner of the ruined chapel, the remains of this ill-fated couple were laid, on the 9th of August, 1766. Lady Glenorchy, a woman remarkable for the piety of her disposition, was far from happy in her marriage j but we are told that she met with her rich reward, even iii this world, for she enjoyed the applause of the wealthy and the blessings of the poor, with that supreme of all pleasures-the conviction that the eternal welfare of those in whose fate she was chiefly interested was forwarded by her precepts and example.” In after years, the Earl of Hopetoun, when acting as Royal Commissioner to the General Assembly, was wont to hold his state levees in the house that had been Lord Alva’s. To the east of hfylne’s Square stood some old alleys which were demolished to make way for the North Bridge, one of the greatest local undertakings of the eighteenth century. One of these alleys was known as the Cap and Feather Close, immediately above Halkerston’s Wynd. The lands that formed the east side of the latter were remaining in some places almost intact till about 1850. In one of these, but which it was impossible to say, was born on the 5th of September, 1750, that luckless but gifted child of genius, Robert Fergusson, the poet, whose father was then a clerk in the British Linen Company; but even the site of his house, which has peculiar claims on the interest of every lover of Scottish poetry, cannot be indicated. How Halkerston’s Wynd obtained its name we have already told. Here was an outlet from the ancient city byway of a dam or dyke across the loch, to which Lord Fountainhall refers in a case dated zIst February, 1708. About twenty years before that time it would appear that the Town Council “had opened a new port at the foot of Halkerston’s Wynd for the convenience of those who went on foot to Leith; and that Robert Malloch, having acquired some lands on the other side of the North Loch, and made yards and built houses thereon, and also having invited sundry weavers and other good tradesmen to set up on Moutree’s Hill [site of the Register House], and the deacons of crafts finding this prejudicial to them, and contrary to the 154th Act of Parliament, I 592,’’ evading which, these craftsmen paid neither scot, lot, nor stent,” the magistrates closed up the port, and a law plea ensued between them and the enterprising Robert Malloch, who was accused of filling up a portion of the bank of the loch with soil from a quarry. “The town, on the other hand, did stop the vent and passage over the loch, which made it overtlow and drown Robert’s new acquired ground, of which he complained as an act of oppression.” Eventually the magistrates asserted that the loch was wholly theirs, and ‘( that therefore he could drain no part of it, especially to make it regorge and inundate on their side. The Lords were going to take trial by examining the witnesses, but the magistrates prevented it, by opening the said port of their own accord, without abiding an order, and let the sluice run,” by which, of course, the access by the gate was rendered useless. Kinloch‘s Close adjoined Halkerston’s Wynd, and therein, till about 1830, stood a handsome old substantial tenement, the origin and early occupants of which were all unknown. A mass of curious and abutting projections, the result of its peculiar site, it had a finely-carved entrance door, with the legend, Peir. God. in . Luzy., 1595, and the initials I. W., and the arms of the surname of Williamson, together with a remarkable device, a saltire, from the centre of which rose a crosssymbol of passion. Passing Allan Ramsay’s old shop, a narrow bend gives us access to Carrubber’s Close, the last stronghold of the faithful Jacobites after 1688. Episcopacy was abolished in 1689, and although from that period episcopal clergymen had no legal provision or settlement, they were permitted, without molestation, to preach in meeting-houses till I 746 ; but as they derived no emolument from Government, and no provision from the State, they did not, says Arnot, perplex their consciences with voluminous and unnecessary oaths, but merely excluded ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. other, Willielmina, became the wife of John Lord Glenorchy. The fate of ...

Vol. 2  p. 238 (Rel. 0.29)

Heriot’s Hospital.1 WALTER BALCANQU.-II,L. 367 Waucllop Thesauer,” is ordained “ to take down the stonewark of the south-west tower, and to make (it) the same as the north-west and north-east towers ar, and this to be done with all diligence.” In Rothiemay’s view of the Hospital, published in 1647, he shows it enclosed by the crenelated ramparts of the city from the present tower in the Vennel, and including the other three on the west and south. A high wall, with a handsome gateway, bounds it above the Grassmarket, and on the west a long wall separates it from the Greyfriars churchyard, and the entire side of the present Forrest Road. Gordon’s view is still more remarkable for showing a lofty spire above the doorway, and the two southern towers surmounted by cupolas, which they certainly A somewhat similar view (which has been reproduced here,* on p. 368) will be found in Slezer’s ‘‘ Theatrum Scotiz,” under the title of Boghengieght. How this name (which is the name of one of the Duke of Gordon’s seats) came to be applied by the engraver to Heriot’s Hospital is not known. The hospital was filled with the wounded of the English army, brought thither from the battle-field of Dunbar by CromwelL And it was used for sick and wounded soldiers by General Monk, till about 1658, when the governors prevailed upon him to remove them, accommodation being provided for them elsewhere, During this period the governors granted an annual pension of A55 to a near relation of Heriot, but not until they had received two urgent notes from Cromwell. This pension was afterwards resigned. Many improvements and additions were made, and the total expenses amounted then to upwards of ~30,000, when in 1659 it was opened for the reception of boys on the 11th April, when 30 were admitted. In August they numbered forty, In 1660 the number was 52; in 1693 it was 130; and in 1793 140. Fifteen years before the opening of the hospital, the life of Dr. Walter Balcanquall, the trustee whom Maitland curiously calls its architect, had come to a grievous end. The son of the Rev. Walter Balcanquall, a minister of Edinburgh for forty-three years, he had graduated at Oxford as Bachelor of Divinity, and was admitted a Fellow on the 8th September, 1611; in 1618 he represented- whiIe royal chaplain-the Scottish Church at the Synod of Dort, and his letters concerning that convocation, addressed to Sir Dudley Carleton, ‘ had till about 1692. The Editor is indebted to Mr. D. F. Lowe, M.A.. House-Governor of Heriot’s Hospital, fer assistance very kindly rendered in the matter cfiUu&ations. are preserved in Hale’s “Golden Remains.” 1: was after he had been successively Dean of Rochester 2nd of Durham that he was one of Heriot’s three trustees. In 1638 he accompanied the Marquis of Hamilton, Royal Commissioner, as chaplain ; and some doubts of his dealings on this ahd subsequent occasions rendered him obnoxious to the Presbyterians of Scotland and the Puritans of England; and in July, 1641, he and five others having been denounced as incendiaries by the Scottish Parliament, after being persecuted, pillaged, and sequestrated by the Puritans, he shared the falling fortunes of Cliarles I. He was thrown into Chirk Castle, Denbighshire, where he died on Christmas Day, 1645, just after the battle of Naseby, and a splendid nionunient to his memory was subsequently erected in the parish churcli of Chirk: by Sir Thomas Myddleton. In the hospital records for 1675 is the following, under date May 3rd :-“There is a necessity that the steeple of the hospital be finished, and a top put thereon. Ro. Miln, Master Mason, to think on a drawing thereof against the next council meeting.,’ But nothing appears to have been done by the king’s master mason, for on the Ioth‘July, Deacon Sandilands was ordered to put a roof and top on the said steeple in accordance with a design furnished by Sir IVilliam Bruce, the architect of Holyrood Palace. In 1680, about the time that the obnoxious test was made the subject of so much mockery, Fountainhall mentions that ‘( the children of Heriot’s Hospitall, finding that the dog which keiped the yards of that hospital1 had a public charge and office, ordained him to take the test, and offered him the paper ; but he, loving a bone rather than it, absolutely refused it. Then they rubbed it over with butter (which they called an Explication of the Test in imitation of Argile), and he licked off the butter and did spit out the paper, for which they held a jurie on him, and in derision of the sentence against Argile, they found the dog guilty of treason, and actually hanged him.” In 1692 the Council Records refer to the abolition of the cupolas, the appearance of which in old views of the hospital have caused some discussion among antiquaries. “The council having visited the fabric of the hospital, and found that the south-east quarter thereof is not yet finished and completed, and that the south-west quarter is finished and completed by a pavilion turret of lead, an& that the north-east and north-west corners of the said fibnc are covered with a pavilion roof of lead; therefore, and for making the whole fabric of the said ... Hospital.1 WALTER BALCANQU.-II,L. 367 Waucllop Thesauer,” is ordained “ to take down the stonewark ...

Vol. 4  p. 367 (Rel. 0.29)

Holyrood. I KING DAVID’S CHARTER. 43 sake of trade ; and if it happen that they do no come, I grant the aforesaid church from my ren of Edinburgh forty shillings, from Stirling twentj shillings, and from Perth forty shillings ; and ont toft in Stirling, and the draught of one net foi tishing ; and one toft in my Burgh of Edinburgh free and quit of all custom and exaction ; and ont toft in Berwick, and the draught of two nets ir Scypwell ; one toft in Renfrew of five perches, tht ‘draught of one net for salmon, and to fish thert for herrings freely ; and I forbid any one to exact from you or your men any customs therefor. ‘‘ I moreover grant to the aforesaid canons from my exchequer yearly ten pounds for the lights o the church, for the works of that church, anc repairing these works for ever. I charge, more over, all my servants and foresters of Stirlingshirt and Clackmannan, that the abbot and convent havt free power in all my woods and forests, of taking as much timber as they please for the building 01 their church and of their houses, and for any purpost of theirs; and I enjoin that their men who take timber for their use in the said woods have my firm peace, and so that ye do not permit them tc be disturbed in any way ; and the swine, the property of the aforesaid church, I grant in all my woods to be quit of pannage [food]. ‘‘ I grant, moreover, to the aforesaid canons the half of the fat, tallow, and hides of the slaughter 01 Edinburgh ; and a tithe of all the whales and seabeasts which fall to me from Avon to Coldbrandspath; and a tithe of all my pleas and gains from Avon to Coldbrandspath ; and the half of my tithe of cane, and of my pleas and gains of Cantyre and Argyll ; and all the skins of rams, ewes, and lambs of the castle and of Linlithgow which die of my flock ; and eight chalders of malt and eight of meal, with thirty *cart-loads of bush from Liberton ; and one of my mills of Dean; and a tithe of the mill of Liberton, and of Dean, and of the new mill of *Edinburgh, and of Craggenemarf, as much as I .have for the same in my domain, and as much as JVuieth the White gave them of alms of the same Crag. I ‘ ‘‘ I grant likewise to them leave to establish a burgh between that church and my burgh.* And . I grant that the burgesses have common right of selling their wares and of buying in my market, ‘freely and quit of claim and custom, in like manner .as my own burgesses ; and I forbid that any one take in this burgh, bread, ale, or cloth, or any ware -by force, or without consent of the burgesses. I grant, moreover, that the canons be quit of toll . Here them is no mention of the town of Hcr6Crgrrs, alleged to haw occupied the site of the Canongate. and of all custom in all my burghs and throughout all my land: to wit, all things that they buy and sell. “And I forbid any one to take pledge on the land of the Holy Rood, unless the abbot of that place shall have refused to do right and justice. I will, moreover, that they hold all that is above written as freely and quietly as I hold my own lands ; and I will that the abbot hold his court as freely, fully, and honourably as the Bishop of St. Andrews and the Abbots of Dunfermline and Kelso hold their courts. “Witnesses tRobert Bishop of St. Andrews, John Bishop of Glasgow, Henry my son, William my grandson, Edward the Chancellor, Ilerbert the Chamberlain, Gillemichael the Earl, Gospatrick the brother of Dolphin, Robert of Montague, Robert of Burneville, Peter of Brus, Norman the Sheriff, Oggu, Leising, Gillise, William of Grahani, Turston of Crechtune, Blein the Archdeacon, Aelfric the Chaplain, Walerain the Chaplain.” l- This document is interesting from its simplicity, and curious as mentioning mzny places still known under the same names. 1 The canons regular of the order of St. Augustine were brought there from St. Andrews in Fifeshire. The order was first established in Scotlayd by Alexander I. in 1114, and ere long possessed twenty-eight monasteries or foundations in tqe So, in process of time, ‘‘ in the hollow betweqn two hills ” where King David was saved from the white hart, there rose the great abbey house, with its stately cruciform church, having three :ewers, of which but a fragment now remainsT i melancholy ruin. Till its completion the canods Mere housed in the Castle, where they resided till rbout 1176, occupying an edifice which had preiliously been a nunnery. The southern aisle of the nave is the only part if the church on which a roof remains, and of the whole range of beautifully clustered pillars on the iorth side but two fragments alone survive. The mtire ruin retains numerous traces of the original vork of the twelfth century, though enriched by he additions of subsequent ages. With reference o the view of it in the old print which has been :opied in these pages,$ it has been observed hat therein “the abbey church appears with a econd square tower, uniform with the one still tanding at the north of the great doorway. The ransepts are about the usual proportions, but the :hoir is much shorter than it is proved from other kingdom. I - t “Charters relatiagta Cityof E&bwgh,“&u xr43-x5+ao. 4ta. 1871. f see ante, vol. i, p. 5. ... I KING DAVID’S CHARTER. 43 sake of trade ; and if it happen that they do no come, I grant the ...

Vol. 3  p. 42 (Rel. 0.29)

Bell’s Mills.] LADY SINCLAIR. 63 portray. She was born Margaret Learmouth, at ~ 6 , St John Street, in the Canongate, in January) 1794, while that street and much of the neighbour. hood around it were still the centre of the literaq and fashionable society of the then secluded capital of Scotland. Thus she was old enough to have seen and known many who were “ QUt with the Prince ” b 1745, and reminiscences of these people and 01 their days were ever a favourite theme with hei when she had a sympathetic listener. “Old maiden ladies,” she was wont to say, with a sort 01 sad pitifulness in her tone, “were the last lea1 Jacobites in Edinburgh ; spinsterhood in its loneli. ness remained then ever true to Prince Charlit and the vanished dreams of youth.” Lady Sinclaii used to relate how in the old Episcopal Chapel in the Cowgate, now St. Patrick‘s Church, the last solitary representative of these Jacobite ladies nevei failed to close her prayer-book and stand erect, in d e n t protest, when the prayer for King George 111. ‘( and the reigning family ” was read in the Church Service. Early in her girlhood her family removed from St. John Street to Picardy Place, and the following adventure, which she used to relate, curiously evinces the difference between the social customs of the early years of this century and those of the present day. “ Once, when she was returning from a ball, the bearers of her sedan-chair had their bonnets carried off by the wind, while the street oil-lamps were blown out, and the ‘ Donalds ’ departed in pursuit of their head-gear. It was customary in those times for gentlemen to escort the sedan-chairs that held their fair partners of the evening, and the two gentlemen who were with her-the Duke af Argyle and Sir John Clerk of Penicuickseized hold of the spokes and carried her home. ‘Gentlemen were gentlemen in those days,’ she was wont to add, ‘and Edinburgh was the proper residence of the Scottish aristocracy-not an inn .or a half-way house between London and the Highland muirs.’ ” In 1821 she was married to Mr. Sinclair, afterwards Sir John Sinclair, Bart., of Dunbeath, and for fifty years afterwards her home was at the House of Barock, in Caithness, where her influence among the poor was ever felt and gratefully acknowledged. She was a staunch and amusingly active Liberal, and, with faculties clear and unimpaired in the last week of her long life, noted and commented on Mr. Gladstone’s famous “ hlidlothian speeches,” and rejoiced over his success. She was always scrupulously dressed, and in the drawing-room down to the day of her death. She saw all her children die before her, in early or middle life; her eldest, Colonel Sinclair, dying in India in his forty-fifth year. After Sir John’s death she settled in Edinburgh. “I am the last leaf on the outmost bough,” she was wont to say, “and want to fall where I was born.” And so she passed away. When she was interred within the Chapel Royal at Holyrood, it was supposed that she would be one of the last to whom that privilege would be accorded. It was not so ; for the remains of James, Earl of Caithness, who died in America, were laid there in April, 1881. The Dean, or Den, seems to have been the old general name for the rocky hollow now spanned by the stately bridge of Telford. Bell’s Mills, a hamlet deep down in a grassy glen, with an old bridge, aver which for ages lay the only road to the Queensferry, and now overshadowed by fashionable terraces and crescents, is described by Kincaid in 1787 as a village, “one and three-quarter niiles north-west of Edinburgh, on the north bank of the Water of Leith, and .a quarter of a mile west of West Leith village.” * It received its name from an old proprietor of the flour-mills, which are still grinding there, and have been long in existence. ‘‘ On Thursday night last,” says the Zdinburgh Advertseer of 3rd January: 1764, “ the high wall at Bells Brae, near the Water of Leith Bridge, fell down, by which accident the footpath and part of the turnpike road are carried away, which makes it hazardous for carriages. This notice may be of use to those who have occasion to pass that road.” At the head of the road here, near the Dean Bridge, is a Free Church, built soon after the Disruption-a little edifice in the Saxon style, with a square tower ; and a quaint little ancient crowstepped building, once a toll-house, has built into it some of the old sculpture from the Dean House. At the foot of the road, adjoining Bell’s Mills Bridge, are old Sunbury distillery and house, in a lelta formed by the Leith, which sweeps under a steep and well-wooded bank which is the boundary 3f the Dean Cemetery. The Water of Leith village, which bears marks of peat antiquity, is fast disappearing amid the enxoachments of modern streets, and yet all that renains of it, deep down in the rocky hollow, where :he stream, flowing under its quaint old bridge, 3etween ancient mills, pours in a foaming sheet wer a high, broad weir, is wonderfully striking ind picturesque. Dates, inscriptions, crowstepped :ables, and other features of the seventeenth :entury, abound here in profusion. . ... Mills.] LADY SINCLAIR. 63 portray. She was born Margaret Learmouth, at ~ 6 , St John Street, in the ...

Vol. 5  p. 63 (Rel. 0.29)

162 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Walk. Tience, he was appointed captain of the East New Town Company, and inaugurated his new service by fighting a duel with a Dr. Bennet, whom he wounded, the dispute having occurred about some Tepairs on the doctor’s chaise. “He was,’’ says Kay’s editor, “ a fine manly-looking person, rather florid in complexion, exceedingly polite in his manners, and of gentlemanly attainments.” He was treasurer of the city in 1795-6, and died at No. I, *Gayfield Square, in 1823. His son Archibald, born there, a High School boy, became physician to the Emperor Alexander of Russia in 1817 ; he was also physician to the Imperial Guard, was knighted by the Emperor, and paid a visit to his native city in 1823. He is refetred to in our .account of Princes Street. In a house on the west side of the square lived Kincaid Mackenzie, in 1818-9 ; previously he had resided in No. 14, Dundas Street. In 1817 he was elected Lord Provost ; and two years afterwards he .entertained at his house in the square, Prince Leopold, afterwards King of the Belgians, He died .suddenly, on the 2nd of January, 1830, when he was about to sit down to dinner. In the common stair, No. 31, Campbell of Barcaldine had a house in 1811, at which time the square was still called Gayfield Place. Lower down the Walk, on the same side, was the old Botanical Garden, the successor of the old Physic Garden that lay in the swampy valley of the North Loch, and the garden of Holyrood Palace. Dr. John Hope, the professor of botany, appointed in 1768, used every exertion to procure a more favourable situation for a garden than the old .one, and succeeded, about 1766, in obtaining such aid and countenance from Government as enabled him to accomplish the object he had so much at ‘heart. *‘ His Majesty,” says Arnot, with laudable detail-Government grants being few for Scotland in those days-“ was graciously pleased to grant the sum of jt;1,330 IS. 24d. for making it, and for its annual support A69 8s. ; at the same time the magistrates and Town Council granted the sum of ;Ezs annually for paying the rent of the ground.“ The latter was five acres in extent, and the rapid progress it made as a garden was greatly owing to the skill and diligence of John Williamson, the head gardener. ‘‘ The soil,” says Amot, “ is sandy .or gravelly.” Playfair, in his “ Illustrations of the Huttonian Theory,” says of this garden that its ground, “ after a thin covering is removed, consists entirely of sea-sand, very regularly stratified with layers of black carbonaceous matter in three lameke interposed between them. Shells, I believe, are rarely found in it ; but it has every other appearance of a sea-beach.” By 1780 it was richly stocked with trees to afford good shelter for young and tender plana. In the eastern division was the school of botany, containing 2,000 species of plants, systematically arranged, A German traveller, nanied Frank, who visited it in 1805, praised the order of the plants, and says, ‘‘ among others I saw a beautiful Fe+a asafatida in full bloom. The gardens at Kew received their plants from this garden.” The latter was laid out under the immediate direction of Dr. Hope, who arranged the plants according to the system of Linneus, to whom, in 1778, he erected in the grounds a monument-a vase upon a pedestal-inscribed : LINNAEO POSUIT 10. HOPE. He built suitable hothouses, and formed a pond for the nourishment of aquatic plants. These were all in the western division of the ground. The conservatories were 140 feet long. Bruce of Kinnakd, the traveller, gave the professor a number of Abyssinian plant seeds, among them the plant which cured him of dysentery, In a small enclosure the industrious professor had a plantation of the true rhubarb, containing 3,000 plants. The greenhouse was covered by a dated roof, according to the Sots Magazine, in 1809 ; and as light was only admitted at the sides, the plants were naturally drawn towards them. “ To remedy this radical defect,” adds the writer, “ a glass roof is necessary. The soil of this garden is by no means good ; vast pains have been bestowed upon it to produce what has been done. The situation, which, at one period, may be admitted to have been favourable, is now indifferent, and is daily becoming worse, from the rapid encroachment of building, and the Hasfing effects of an iron-foundry on the opposite side of Leith Walk.” Some of the new walks here were laid out by Mr. John Mackay, said to be one of the most enthusiastic botanists and tasteful gardeners that Scotland had as then produced, and who died in 1802. In 1814, on the death of Dr. Roxburgh, he was succeeded as superintendent of this garden by Dr. Francis Buchanan, author of several works on India, where, in 1800, he was chosen to examine the state of the country which had been lately conquered from Tippoo Sahib; he had also been surgeon to the Marquis of Wellesley, then Governor-GeneraL He died in 1829, prior to which, as we have elsewhere related, this Botanical Garden had been abandoned, and all its plants removed without ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Walk. Tience, he was appointed captain of the East New Town Company, and ...

Vol. 5  p. 162 (Rel. 0.29)

342 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Burdiehouse. intelligence to the enemy, which occasioned the imprisonment of his person until the mistake was discovered.” He returned home in 1767, and after obtaining a full pardon in 1771, “he repaired the mansion of his ancestors, improved his long neglected acres, acd set forward the improvements of the province in which he resided.’’ In the year 1772 he published, at the request of the East India Company, a work on the principles of money, as applied to the coin of Bengal ; and in 1773, on the death of Sir Archibald Stewart Denham, he succeeded to the baronetcy of Coltness, and died in 1780. His works, in six volumes, including his correspondence with the celebrated Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, whose acquaintance he made at Venice in 1758, were published by his son, Sir James Stewart Denham, who, when he died, was the oldest general in the British army. He was born in 1744 and in 1776 was lieutenant- colonel of the 13th Dragoons (now Hussars), and in his latter years was colonel of the Scots Greys. Towards the close of the last century, Goodtrees, or Moredun, as it is now named, was the property of David Stewart Moncrieff, advocate, one of the Barons of Exchequer, who long resided in a selfcontained house in the Horse Wynd. Sir Thomas MoncrieiT, Bart., of that ilk, was his nephew and nearest heir, but having quarrelled with him, according to the editor of “ Kay’s Portraits,” he bequeathed his estate of Moredun to Lady Elizabeth Ramsay, sister of the Earl of Dalhousie. He was buried on the 17th April, 1790, in the Chapel Royal at Holyrood, where no stone marks his grave. At, the western portion of the Braid Hills (in a quarter of St. Cuthbert’s parish), and under a shoulder thereof 609 feet in height, where of old stood a telegraph-station, lies the famous Buckstane, which gives its name to an adjacent farm. The Clerks, baronets of Penicuick, hold their land by the singular tenure of being bound to sit upon the large rocky fragment here known as the Buckstane, and wind three blasts of a horn when the King of Scotland shall come to hunt on the Burghmuir. Hence the fzmily have adopted as their crest a demi-forester proper winding a horn, with the motto, “ Free for a blast” About midway between this point and St Katherine’s is Morton Hall, a handsome residence surrounded by plantations, and having a famous sycamore, which was planted in 1700, and is fourteen feet in circumference. John Trotter of Morton Hall, founder of this family, was a merchant in Edinburgh, and was born in 1558, during the reign of Mary, A mile westward of Morton Hall are the remains of a large Roman camp, according to Kincaid’s “ Gazetteer” of the county. Burdiehouse, in this quarter, lies three miles and a half south of the city, on the Peebles Road. “ Its genteel name,” according to Parker Lawson’s “Gazetteer,” “is Bordeaux, which it is supposed to have received from its being the residence of some of Queen Mary’s French domestics; but it has long lost that designation. Another statement is that the first cottage built here was called Bordeaux.” Most probably, however, it received its name as being the abode of some of the same exiled French silk weavers who founded the now defunct village of Picardie, between the city and Leith. It is chiefly celebrated for its lime-kilns, which manufacture about 15,000 bolls annually. There is an immense deposit of limestone rock here, which has attracted greatly the attention of geologists, in consequence of the fossil remains it contains. In 1833, the bones, teeth, and scales of what was conjectured to be a nameless, but enormous, reptile were discovered here-the scales, strange to say, retaining their lustre, and the bones their porous and laminated appearance. These formed the subject of several communications to the Royal Society of Edinburgh by Dr. Hibbert, who, in his earlier papers, described them as U the remains of reptiles.” In 1834, at the meeting of the British Association in Edinburgh, these wonderful fossils-which by that time had excited the greatest interest among naturalists-were shown to M. Agassiz, who doubted their reptile character, and thought they belonged to fish of the ganoid .order, which he denbminated sauroid, in consequence of their numerous affinities to the saurian reptiles, which have as their living type, or representative, the lepidosteus; but the teeth and scales were not found in connection. A few days afterwards, M. Agassiz, in company with Professor Buckland, visited the Leeds Museum, where he found some great fossils having the same kind of scales and teeth as those discovered at Burdiehouse, conjoined in the same individual. It is now, therefore, no longer a conjecture that they belonged to the same animal. And in these selfsame specimens we have the hyoid and branchiostic apparatus of bones-a series of bones connected with the gills, an indubitable character of fishesand it is, accordingly, almost indisputable that the Burdiehouse fossils are the remains of fishes, and ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Burdiehouse. intelligence to the enemy, which occasioned the imprisonment of his ...

Vol. 6  p. 342 (Rel. 0.29)

241 CoWgab.1 THE EPISCOPAL CHAPEL. to preach openly, by taking the oaths to Govemment, had been founded in Edinburgh by Baron Smith, and two smaller ones were founded about 1746, in Skinner‘s and Carrubber’s Closes; but as these places were only mean and inconvenient apartments, a plan was formed for the erection of a large and handsome church. The Episcopalians of the city chose a committee of twelve gentlemen to see the scheme executed. They purchased from the Royal College of Physicians the area of what had formerly been the Tweeddale gardens, and opened a subscription, which was the only resource they had for completing the building, the trifling funds belonging to the former obscure chapels bearing no proportion to the cost of so expensive a work. But this impediment was removed by the gentlemen of the committee, who generously gave their personal credit to a considerable amount. The foundation stone was laid on the 3rd of April, 1771, by the Grand Master Mason, Lieutenant- General Sir Adolphus Oughton, K.B., Colonel of the 31st Foot, and Commander of the Forces in Scotland. The usual coins were deposited in the stone, under a plate, inscribed thus :- EDIFICII SAC. ECCLESIW EPISC. ANGLIB, PRIMIlM POSUIT LAPIDEY, I. ADOLPHUS OUGHTON, CURIO MAXIMUS, MILITUM PRWFECTUS, REONANTE GEORGIO 111. TERTIO APR. DIE, A.D. MDCCLXXI. IN ARCHITECTONICA storm RFPUB. Towards this church the Writers to the Signet subscribed zoo guineas, and the Incorporation of Surgeons gave 40 guineas, and on Sunday, the 9th of October, 1774, divine service was performed in it for the first time. “This is a plain, handsome building,” says Arnot, “ neatly fitted up in the inside somewhat in the form of the church of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, London. It is 90 feet long by 75 broad pver the walls, and is omamented with a neat spire of a tolerable height. In the spire hangs an excellent bell, formerly belonging to the Chapel Royal at Holyrood, which is permitted to be rung for assembling the congregation, an indulgence that is not allowed to the Presbyterians in England. This displays a commendable liberality of sentiment in the magistrates of Edinburgh ; but breathes no jealousy for the dignity of their national Church. In the chapel there is a fine organ, made by Snetzler.of London. In the east side is a niche of 30 feet, with a Venetian window, where stands the altar, which is adorned with paintings by Runciman, a native of Edinburgh. In the volta is the Ascefision; over the small window on the right is Christ talking with the Samaritan woman ; on the left the Prodigal returned. In these two the figures are halflength. On one side of the table is the figure of Moses ; on the other that of Elias.” At the time Arnot wrote L6,Soo had been spent on the building, which was then incomplete. “ The ground,” he adds, ‘‘ is low ; the chapel is concealed by adjacent buildinis ; the access for carriages inconvenient, and there is this singularityattending it, that it is the only Christian church standing north and south we ever saw or heard of. . . . . . . . . There are about I,ooo persons in this congregation. Divine service is celebrated before them according to all the rites of the Church of England. This deserves to be considered as a mark of increasing moderation and liberality among the generality of the people. Not many years ago that form of worship in all its ceremonies would not have been tolerated The organ and paintings would have been downright idolatry, and the chapel would have fallen a sacrifice to the fury of the mob.” Upon the death of Mr. Can; the first senior clergyman of this chapel, he was interred under its portico, and the funeral service was sung, the voices of the congregation being accompanied by the organ. In Arnot’s time the senior clergyman was Dr. Myles Cooper, Principal of New York College, an exile from America in consequence of the revolt of the colonies. In the middle’of February, 1788, accounts reached Scotland of the death and funeral of Prince Charles Edward, the eldest grandson of James VII., at Rome, and created a profound sensation among people of all creeds, and the papers teemed with descriptions of the burial service at Frascati ; how his brother, the Cardinal, wept, and his voice broke when singing the office for the dead prince, on whose coffin lay the diamond George and collar of the Garter, now in Edinburgh Castle, while the militia of Frascati stood around as a guard, with the Master of Nairn, in whose arms the prince expired. In the subsequent April the Episcopal College met ’at Aberdeen, and unanimously resolved that they should submit “ to the present Government of this kingdom as invested in his present Majesty George III.,” death having broken the tie which bound them to the House of Stuart. Thenceforward the royal family was prayed for in all their churches, and the penal statutes, after various modifications, were repezled in 1792. Eight years afterwards the Rev. Archibald Alison (father of ... CoWgab.1 THE EPISCOPAL CHAPEL. to preach openly, by taking the oaths to Govemment, had been founded in ...

Vol. 4  p. 247 (Rel. 0.29)

*'Lauriston.l THE NEW ROYAL INFIRMARY. 359 aunt Elizabeth, ordered that on application for taking children into his hospital, those of the name of Davidsonshoulc! have a preference, as well as those of Watson. In June, 1741, twelve boys were admitted into it; in three years the number amounted to thirty; and in 1779 that number was doubled. , Watson's Merchant Academy, as it was named in 1870, underwent a great change in that year. The governors of the four hospitals connected with the Merchant Company, taking advantage of the Endowed Institutions (Scotland) Act, applied for and obtained provisional orders empowering them to convert the foundation into day-schools, and it was opened as one. The edifice was sold to the Corporation of the Royal Infirmary, and the building formerly occupied as the Merchant Maiden Hospital was acquired for, and is now being used as, George Watson's College School for boys. The building was long conspicuous from several points by its small spire, surmounted by a ship, the emblem of commerce. Here, then, we now find the new Royal Infirmary, one of the most extensive edifices in the city, which was formally opened on Wednesday, the 29th of October, 1879, the foundation stone having been laid in October, 1870, by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. The situation of the infirmary is alike excellent and desirable, from its vicinity to the open pasture of the Meadows and Links, the free breezes from the hills, and to the new seat of university medical teaching. The additions and improvements at the old Royal Infirmary, and the conversion of the old High School into a Surgical Hospital, were still found unfitted for the increasing wants of the Corporation as the city grew in extent and population, as the demands of medical science increased, and the conditions'. of hospital management became more amplified and exacting ; and the necessity for some reform in the old edifit'e in Infirmary Street led to the proposal of the mmagers for rebuilding the entire Nedical House. When those contributors met to whom this bold scheme was submitted, complaints were urged as to the wants of the Surgical Hospital, and it was also referred to the committee appointed to consider the whole question, The subscription list eventually showed a total of &75,ooo, and a proposed extension of the old buildings, by the removal of certain houses at the South Bridge, was abandoned, when a new impetus was given to the movement by the late Professor James Syme, who had won a high reputation as a lecturer and anatomist. . His strictures on the 'state of the Surgical Hospital led to a discussion on the wiser policy of rebuilding the whole infirmary, coupled with a proposal, which was first suggested in the columns of the Scotsnran, that a site should be fbund for it, not near the South Bridge, but in the open neighbourhood of the Meadows. The Governors of Watsods Hospital, acting as we have stated, readily parted with the property there, and plans for the building were prepared by the late David Bryce, R.S.A., and to his nephew and partner, Mr. John Bryce, was entrusted the superintendence of their completion. In carrying out his plans Mr. Bryce was guided by the resilts of medical experience on what is known now as the cottage or pavilion system, by which a certain amount of isolation is procured, and air is freely circulated among the various blocks or portions of the whole edifice. '' When it is mentioned that of an area of eleven and a half acresthe original purchase of Watson's ground having been supplemented by the acquisition of Wharton Place-only three and a half are actually occupied with stone and lime, and that well distributed in long narrow ranges over the general surface, it will be understood that this important advantage has been fully turned to account. ' While the primary purpose of the institution has been steadily kept in view, due regard has been ha2 to its future usefulness as a means of medical and surgical education." Most picturesque is this npw grand and striking edifice from every point of view, by the great number and wonderful repetition of its circular towers, modelled after those of the Palaces of Falkland and Holyrood, while the style of the whole is the old Scottish baronial of the days of James V., the most characteristic details and features of which are completely reproduced in the main frontage, which faces the north, or street of Lauriston. The fagade here presents a central elevation IOO feet in length, three storeys in height, with a sunk basement. A prominent feature here is a tower, buttressed at its angles, and corbelled from the general line of the block, having its base opened by the main entrance, with a window on either side to light the hall. The tower rises clear of the wall-head in a square form, with round corbelled Scottish turrets at the corners, one of them containing a stair, and over all there is an octagonal slated spire, terminating in a vane, at the height of 134 feet from the ground. On the east and west rise stacks of ornamental chimneys. The elevations on each side of this tower are uniform, with turrets at each corner, and three rows of windows, the upper gableted above the line of the eaving-slates. ... THE NEW ROYAL INFIRMARY. 359 aunt Elizabeth, ordered that on application for taking children ...

Vol. 4  p. 359 (Rel. 0.29)

Rothesay might be baptised in Protestant form, The queen only replied by placing the child in his arms. Then the aged minister knelt down, and prayed long and fervently for his happiness and prosperity, an event which so touched the tender Mary that she burst into tears; however, the prince was baptised according to the Roman ritual at Stirling on the 5th of December. The birth of a son produced little change in Damley’s licentious life. He perished as history records ; and on Bothwell’s flight after Carberry, and Mary‘s captivity in Lochleven, the Regent Moray resolved by force or fraud to get all the fortresses into his possession. Sir James Balfour, a minion of Bothwell’s-the keeper of the famous silver casket containing the pretended letters and sonnets of Mary-surrendered that of Edinburgh, bribed by lands and money as he marched out, and the celebrated Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange was appointed governor in his place. That night the fated Regent Moray entered with his friends, and slept in the same little apartment wherein, a year before, his sister had been delivered of the infant now proclaimed as James VI. ; but instead of keepin& his promise to Balfour, Moray treacherously made him a prisoner of state in the Castle of St. Andrews. CHAPTER VI. EDIXBURGH C A S T L E - ( C O ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ) . The Siege of 157yThe City Bombarded from the Castle-Elizabeth’s Spy-Drury’s Dispositions for the Siege-Execution of Kirkaldy -Repair of the Roins-Execution of Morton-Visit of Charles I.-Procession to Holyrood-Coronation of Charles 1.-The Struggle against Episcopacy-Siege of 16p-The Spectre Drummer-Besieged by Cromwell-Under the Protector-The Restoration-The Argyles -The Accession of James VIJ -Sentence of the Earl of Argyl-His clever Escape-Imprisoned four years latu-The Last Sleep oC Argyle-His Death-Torture of Covenanters-Proclamation of William and Mary-lle Siege of 168g-Interview between Gordoe and Dundee-The Castle invested-Brilliant Defence-Capitulation of the Duke of Gordon-The Spectre of Ckverhouse. J MARY escaped from Lochleven on the and of May, 1568, and after her defeat fled to England, the last country in Europe, as events showed, wherein she should have sought refuge or hospitality. After the assassination of the Regent Moray, to his successor, the Regent Morton, fell the task of subduing all who lingered in arms for the exiled queen ; and so well did he succeed in this, that, save the eleven acres covered by the Castle rock of Edinburgh, which was held for three years by Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange with a garrison resolute as himself, the whole country was now under his rule. Kirkaldy, whose services in France and elsewhere had won him the high reputation of being “ the bravest soldier in Europe,” left nothing undone, amid the unsettled state of affairs, to strengthen his .post. He raised and trained soldiers without opposition, seized all the provisions that were brought into Leith, and garrisoned St. Giles’s church, into the open spire of which he swung up cannon to keep the citizens in awe. This was on the 28th of March, 1571. After the Duke of Chatelherault, with his Hamiltons-all queen’s men -marched in on the 1st of May, the gables of the church were loopholed for arquebuses. Immediate means were taken to defend the town against the Regent. Troops crowded into it; others were niustered for its protection, and this state of affairs continued for fully three years, during which Kirkaldy baffled the efforts of four successive Regents, till Morton was fain to seek aid from Elizabeth, to wrench from her helpless refugee the last strength that remained to her ; and most readily did the English queen agree thereto. A truce which had been made between ’Morton and Kirkaldy expired on the 1st of January, 1573, and as the church bells tolled six in the morning, the Castle guns, among which were two &?-pounders, French battardes, and English‘ culverins’ or 18- pounders (according to the :‘ Memoirs ofKirkaldy”), opened on the city in the dark. It was then full of adherents of James VI., so Kirkaldy cared not where his shot fell, after the warning gun had been previously discharged, that all loyal subjects of the queen should retire. As the ‘grey winter dawn stole in, over spire and pointed roof, the cannonade was chiefly directed from the eastern curtain against the new Fisli Market ; the baikets in which were beaten so high in the air, that for days after their contents were seen scattered on the tops of the highest houses. In one place a single shot killed five persons and wounded twenty others. Selecting a night when the wind was high and blowing eastward, Kirkaldy made a sally, and set on fire all the thatched houses in West Port and Castle Wynd, cannonading the while the unfortunates who strove to quench the flames that rolled away towards the east. In March Kirkaldy resolutely declined to come to terms with Morton, though earnestly besought to do so by Henry Killigrew, who came ostensibly as an English envoy, but in ... might be baptised in Protestant form, The queen only replied by placing the child in his arms. Then the ...

Vol. 1  p. 47 (Rel. 0.29)

High Street.] EDINBURGH IN 1598 AND 1618. I99 is bought by courtiers, gentlemen, and the best sort of citizens. They drink pure,aines, not with sugar, as we English, yet at feasts they put comfits in the wine, after the French manner; but they had not our vintner’s fraud to mix their wines. *‘ I did not see nor hear that they have any public inns, with signs hanging out ; but the better sort of ‘ citizens brew ale (which will distemper a stranger’s body), and then some citizens will entertain passengers upon acquaintance or entreaty (i.e., introductioh). Their bedsteads were then like cupboards in the wall (i.e., box beds), to be opened and shut at pleasure, so we climbed up to our beds. They used but one sheet, open at the sides and top, but close at the feet. When passengers go to bed, their custom is to present them a sleeping cup of wine at parting. The country people and merchants used to drink largely, the gentlemen somewhat more sparingly; yet the very courtiers, by nightmeetings and entertaining any strangers, used to drink healths, not without excess ; and to speak the truth without offence, the excess of drinking was far greater among the Scots than the English. *‘ Myself being at the Court was invited by some gentlemen to supper, and being forewarned to fear this excess, would not promise to sup with them but upon*condition that my inviter would be my protection from large drinking. . . . The husbandmen in Scotland, the servants, and almost all the country, did wear coarse cloth made at home, of grey or sky colour, and flat blew caps, very broad. The merchants in cities were attired in English or French cloth, of pale colour, or mingled black and blew. The gentlemen did wear English cloth or silk, or light stuffs, little or nothing adorned with silk lace, much less with silver or gold ; and all followed the French fashion, especially at Court. “Gentlewomen married did wear close upper bodies, after the German manner, with large whalebone sleeves, after the French manner; short cloaks like the Germans, French hoods, and large falling bands about their necks. The unmarried of all sorts (?) did go bareheaded, and wear short cloaks, with close linen sleeves on their arms, like the virgins of Germany. The inferior sort of citizen’s wives and the women of the country did wear cloaks ,made of a coarse stuff, of two or three colours, in checker work, vulgarly called jZodun (i.e., tartan plaiding). “To conclude, they would not at this time be attired after the English fashion in any sort; but the men, especially at Court, followed the French fashion ; and the women, both in Court and city, as well -in cloaks as naked heads and close sleeves on the arms, and all other garments, follow the fashion of the women in Germany.” On the 20th of June, 1610, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh exhibited to his Council two gowns, one black, the other red, trimmed with sable, the gift of King James, as patterns of the robes to be worn by him and the bailies of the city; and in 1667 Charles 11. gave Sir Alexander Ramsay, Provost in that year, a letter, stating that the chief magistrate of Edinburgh should have the same precedence in Scotland as the Mayor of London has in England, and that no other provost should have the title of ‘I Lord Provost ”-a privilege which has, however, since been modified. l h e attention of King James, who never forgot the interests of his native city, was drawn in 1618 to two abuses in its police. Notwithstanding the warning given by the fire of 1584, it was still cus tomary for “baxters and browsters” (i.e., bakers and brewers) to keep great stacks of heather, whins, and peatq in the very heart of the High Street and other thoroughfares, to the great hazard of all adjacent buildings, and many who were disposed to erect houses within the walls were deterred from doing so by the risks to be run ; while, moreover, candle-makers and butchers were allowed to pursue their avocations within the city, to the disgust and annoeance of civil and honest neighbours, and of the nobility and country people,” who came in about their private affairs, and thus a royal procla- .mation was issued against these abuses. The idea of a cleaning department.of police never occurred to the good folks of those days ; hence, in the following year, the plan adopted was that each inhabitant should keep clean that part of each street before his own bounds. In 1618 Edinburgh was visited by Taylor the Water Poet, and his description of it is as truthful as it is amusing :-“ So, leaving the castle, as it is both defensive against any opposition and magnifick for lodging and receipt, I descended lower to the city, wherein I observed the fairest and goodliest street mine eyes ever beheld, for I did never see or hear of a street of that length (which is half a mile English from the castle to a fair port, which they call the Nether Bow); and from that port the street which they call the Kenny-gate (Canongate) is one quarter of a mile more, down to the king’s palace, called Holyrood House ; the buildings on each side of the way being all of squared stone, five, six, and seven storeys high, and many bye-lanes and closes on each side of the way, wherein are gentlemen’s houses, much fairer than the buildings in the High Street, fur in the High Street the merchants and tradesmen. do dwell, but ... Street.] EDINBURGH IN 1598 AND 1618. I99 is bought by courtiers, gentlemen, and the best sort of citizens. ...

Vol. 2  p. 199 (Rel. 0.29)

I34 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalng. many instances, relatives and friends. With all the affected zeal of a peacemaker, this gentleman (whose house stood in Drury Lane, off the Strand in London), proposed terms which Huntly deemed satisfactory ; but the next point to be considered was, which party should first march off the field. On this, both parties were absurdly obstinate. Huntly maintained that Morton, by an aggressive display, had drawn the Queen’s troops out of the city ; while Morton, on the other hand, charged the Highland Earl with various acts of hostility and insult. Dnuy eventually got both parties to promise to quit the ground at a given signal, “and that signal,” he arranged, “shall be the throwing up of my hat.” This was agreed to, and before Drury was halfway between the Hawkhill and the ancient quarries, up went his plumed hat, and away wheeled Huntly’s forces, marching for the city by the road that led to the Canongate, without the least suspicion of the treachery of Drury, or Morton, whose soldiers had never left their ground, and who cow, rushing across the open fields with shouts charged with the utmost fury the queen’s men, ‘‘ who were retiring with all the imprudent irregularity and confusion which an imaginary security and exultation at having escaped a sanguinary conflict were calculated to produce.” Thus treacherously attacked, they were put to flight, and were pursued with cruel and rancorous slaughter to the very gates of the city. The whole road was covered with dead and wounded men, while Lord Home, several gentlemen of high position, and seventy-two private soldiers, a pair of colours, several horses, and two pieces of cannon, were, amid great triumph, marched into Leith in the afternoon. This was not the only act of treachery of which Sir William Drury was guilty. He swore that he was entirely innocent, and threw the whole blame on Morton; but though an ambassador, so exas. perated were the people of Edinburgh against him, that he had afterwards to quit the city under a guard to protect him from the infuriated mob. The Laird of Restalrig was among those who surrendered with Kirkaldy of Grange, in 1573, when the Castle of Edinburgh capitulated to Morton; but he would seem to have been pardoned, as no record exists of any seventy practised upon him. In #some criminal proceedings, in I 5 76, the sheet of water here is designated as Restalrig Loch, when a woman named Bessie Dunlop was tried for witchcraft and having certain interviews with ‘‘ ane Tam Reid,” who was killed at the battle of Pinkie. Having once ridden with her husband to Leith to bring home meal, “ganging afield to tether her horse at Restalrig Loch, there came ane company of riders by, that made sic a din as if heaven and earth had gane together; and, incontinent they rade into the loch, with mony hideous rumble. Tarn tauld [her] it was the Gude Wights, that were riding in middle-eard.” For these and similar confessions, Bessie was consigned to the flames as a witch. During the prevalence of the pestilence, in 1585, James Melville says that on his way to join the General Assembly at Linlithgow he had to pass through Edinburgh ; that after dining at Restalrig at eleven o’clock, he rode through thecity from the Water Gate to the West Port, “ in all whilk way, we saw not three persons, sae that I mis-kenned Edinburgh, and almost forgot that I had ever seen sic a town.” In 1594 Restalrig was the scene of one of those stormy raids that the “mad Earl of Bothwell” caused so frequently, to the torment of James VI. The earl, at the head of an armed force, was in Leith, and broke out in open rebellion, when, on the 3rd of April, the king, after sermon, summoned the people of Edinburgh in arms, and moved towards Leith, from whence Bothwell instantly issued at the head of 500 mounted men-atms, and took up a position at the Hawkhill near Restalrig. Fearing, however, the strength of the citizens, he made a detour, and galloped through Duddingstone. Lord Home with his lances followed him to “the Woomet,” says Birrel, probably meaning Woolmet, near Dalkeith, when Bothwell faced about, and compelled him to retire in turn, but not without bloodshed. In February, 1593, at Holyrood, Robert Logan, of Restalrig, was denounced for not appearing to answer for his treasonable conspiracy and trafiicking “ with Francis, sum tyme Earl of Bothwell ; ” and in the June of the following year he was again denounced as a traitor for failing to appear and answer for the conduct of two of his vassals, Jockie Houlden and Peter Craick, who had despoiled Robert Gray, burgess in Edinburgh of Lg50. It was in this year that the remarkable indenture was formed between him and Napier of Merchiston to search for gold in Fast Castle (the “Wolf’s Crag” of the Master of Ravenswood), a fortress which lie had acquired by his marriage with an heiress of the Home family, to whom it originally belonged. Logan joined the Earl of Gowrie in the infamous and mysterious conspiracy at Perth, in the year 1600. It was proposed to force the king into ir boat at the bottom of the garden of Gowrie House, which the river Tay bordered, and from‘ thence conduct him by sea to Logan’s inacces ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalng. many instances, relatives and friends. With all the affected zeal of a ...

Vol. 5  p. 134 (Rel. 0.29)

Stirling had been paying his addresses to a girl possessed of great attractions, daughter of Richard Lawson of the Highriggs, Provost in 1504 (and whose house there was removed only in 1878), but proving less successful than Meldrum of the Binns-whose feats of chivalry have been sung by Lindesay of the Mount-he attacked the latter at the head of fifty horse, near the Rood Chapel in Leith Loan, though his rival had only eight followers, and a mortal combat with sword and axe ensued. Meldrum unhorsed Sir Lewis, and would have slain him had not his faithful henchman, by interposing, received the sword-thrust in his own heart. The prowess of Meldrum’s troopers is evinced from the fact that they slew twenty-six oi Stirling’s men, but the former was left for dead, covered with wounds ; “yet,” saith Pitscottie, “be the mychtie power of God he escaped death, and lived fiftie years thairaftir.” The Chevalier de la Bead, the detested Lieutenant-Governor under Albany, at the head of the mounted French gendarmerie, pursued Stirling to the Peel of Linlithgow. He stormed it, and sent this fiery lover to the Castle of Edinburgh, where he was sentenced to death, but was pardoned and set free, while the chevalier was soon after slain by Home of Wedderburn, who knitted his head to his saddlebow. During this time little James V. resided permanently in the Castle, pursuing his studies under the tuition of Gawin Dunbar, afterwards Archbishop of Glasgow, all unconscious of the turmoils in progress everywhere, and so completely forgotten by the actors in them, that his sister, the Countess of Morton, with her friends, had, more than once, to repair the royal apartments and replenish his wardrobe. Though . placed in the fortress for security, he was permitted to ride abroad on a little mule that was kept for his use, but always under escort of Albany’s guards, clad in scarlet doublets slashed with black, and armed with partisan and dagger. Dread of a pestilence &hich broke out in the garrison caused his removal to Craigmillar, where, by the courtesy of Lord Erskine, his mother was permitted to visit him, till the other guardians, hostile to English influence and suspicious of her power, removed him to his fonner residence. James is said to have delighted in conversing with the soldiers, and when handling their swords and hackbuts his cheeks were seen to flush and his eyes to sparkle with the ardour of a brave boy when contemplating military objects. When Albany returned from visiting France, in 1521, the queen-dowager, Beaton, and so many Dthers came in his train to Holyrood, that Angus, who had quarrelled with Margaret, and was the sworn foe of them all, quitted the city, and was exiled for tumults he had excited during the absence ot the Regent. As the only means 06 terminating the frightful anarchy that prevailed, it was resolved to invest James, now in his twelfth year, with full sovereign power ; and thus, on the zznd August, 1524, he made his solemn entry into the Tolbooth, preceded by the crown, sceptre, and sword of state. The irrepressible Angus, backed by the Douglases, seized the government in the following year, scaled the city walls on the night of the 24th November, beat open the ports, and fairly capturing Edinburgh, made a Douglas Provost thereof. And such was the power he possessed, that the assassins of M‘Lellan of Bombie-who was slain in open day at the door of St. Giles’s churcliwalked with impunity about the streets; while the queen herself deemed his safe-conduct necessary while she resided in Edinburgh, though Parliament was sitting at the time ; and so the king returned again to honourable durance in the dilapidated palace of the Castle, or only put in an appearance to act as the puppet of his governor. At this crisis Arran and his faction demanded that Parliament should assemble in the Castle-hall as a security against coercion ; but Angus vowed that it should continue to meet in its usual place ; and as the king was retained within the Castle, he cut off all communication between it and the city with 2,000 men, on whom the batteries opened; but eventually these differences were adjusted, and the luckless young king was permitted to attend Parliament in state. On All Saints’ Day a thunderbolt struck a turret 3f David’s Tower, and hurled some fragments down the rocks, setting fire to the apartments of Margaret, who narrowly escaped with her life. In 1526, John Earl of Lennox, at‘ the head of numerous forces, marched towards Edinburgh, intent on rescuing the king from the intolerable thraldom of Angus; but the latter caused his namesake the Provost to ring the alarm bell, display the banner of the city, and put‘ it on its defence. He did more. He tompelled James to Lead out the citizens against his own friends. He issued forth by the West Port, at the head of all the men of Edinburgh and Leith, but came in time only to witness the death of Lennox in the battle of Linlithgow Bridge, where he was cruelly slain by Sir James Hamilton, after he had surrendered his sword to the Laird of Pardowie. Queen Margaret, who had now divorced Angus, ... had been paying his addresses to a girl possessed of great attractions, daughter of Richard Lawson of ...

Vol. 1  p. 42 (Rel. 0.29)

382 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Gregfriars Church. encroaching on one not fit to be touched ! The whole presents a scene equally nauseous and unwholesome. How soon this spot will be so surcharged with animal juices and oils, that, becoming one mass of corruption, its noxious steams will burst forth with the prey of a pestilence, we shall not pretend to determine ; but we will venture to say, the effects of this burying-ground would ere now have been severely felt, were it not that, besides the coldness of the climate, they have been checked by the acidity of the coal smoke and the height of the winds, which in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh blow with extraordinary violence.” h o t wrote fully a hundred years ago, but since his time the interments in the Greyfriars went on till within a recent period. George Buchanan was buried here in 1582, under a through-stone, which gradually sank into the earth and disappeared. The site, distinctly known in 1701, is now barely remembered by tradition as being on the north slope of the churchyard; but a monument in the ground, to the great Latin scholar and Scottish historian, was erected by the late great bibliopole, David Laing, so many years Librarian of the Signet Library, at his own expense. An essential feature in the memorial is a head of Buchanan in bronze, from the best likeness of him extant. The design was furnished by D. W. Stevenson, A.R.S.A. Taking some of the interments at, random, here is the grave of George Heriot (father of the founder of the adjacent hospital), who died in 1610; of George Jameson, the Scottish Vandyke, who died in 1644; and of Alexander Henderson, 1646, the great covenanting divine, and leading delegate from Scotland to the Westminster Assembly, and the principal author of the Assembly’s Catechism. His ashes lie under a square pedestal tomb, erected by his nephew, and surmounted by a carved urn. There are long inscriptions on the four sides. John Milne’s tomb, 1667, Royal Master Mason @y sixth descent), erected by his nephew, .Robert Milne, also Royal Master Mason, and builder of the modem portions of Holyrood House, records in rhyme how- “ John Milne, who maketh the fourth John, And, by descent from father unto son, Sixth Master Mason to a royal race Of seven successive kings, sleeps in this place.” It is a handsome tomb, with columns and a pediment, and immediately adjoins the eastern or Candlemaker Row entrance, in the formation of which some old mural tombs were removed; among them that of Alexander Millar, Master Tailor to James VI., dated 1616--Xiit Pnkcz$s et Civium Zucfu decotafus, as it bore. A flat stone which, by 1816, was much sunk in the earth, dated 1613, covered the grave of Dr. John Nasmyth, of the family of Posso, surgeon of the king of France’s troop of Scottish Guards, who died in London, but whose remains had been sent to the Greyfriars by order of James VI. The tomb of Sir George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh- the celebrated lawyer, and founder of the Advocates’ Library, and who, as a persecutor, was so ahhorred by the people that his spirit was supposed to haunt the place where he lies-is a handsome and ornqte octagon temple, with eight pillars, a cornice, and a dome, on the southern side of the ground, and its traditional terrors we have already referred to. But other interments than his have taken place here. One notably in 1814, when the widow of Lieutenant Roderick Mackenzie of Linessie was, at her own desire, laid there, “in the tomb of the celebrated Sir George Mackenzie, who was at the head of the Lochslin family, and to whom, by the mother‘s side, she was nearly related.” (GenfZeman’s Mng., 1814.) Near it is the somewhat remarkable tomb of William Little, whilom Provost of Edinburgh in 1591. He was Laird of Over Liberton, and the tomb was erected by his great-grandchild in 1683. His kinsman, Clement Little, Advocate and Commissary of Edinburgh, whose meagre library formed the nucleus of that of the university, is also buried here. It is a mausoleum, composed of a recumbent female figure, with a pillar-supported canopy above her, on which stand four female figures at the several corners. The popular story is that the lady was poisoned by her four daughters, whose statues were placed over her in eternal remembrance of their wickedness; but the effigies are in reality those of Justice, Charity, Faith, &c., favourite emblematical characters in that age when the monument was erected; and the object in placing them there was merely ornamental. Here are interred Archibald Pitcairn, the poet, 1713, under a rectangular slab on four pillars, with an inscription by his friend Ruddiman, near the north entry of the ground; Colin MacLaurin, the mathematician, 1746; and William Ged, the inventor of stereotype printing. Here was worthy and gentle Allan Ramsay committed to the grave in 1758, and the just and u p right Lord President Duncan Forbes of Culloden, elevenyears before that time. Another famous Lord President, Robert Blair of Avontoun, was laid here in 1811. Here, too, lie the two famous Monros, father and ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Gregfriars Church. encroaching on one not fit to be touched ! The whole presents a ...

Vol. 4  p. 382 (Rel. 0.29)

THE GREAT WINCOW. ‘59 Parliament Hoox.] obelisks, with the motto Bominus cusfodif infroifurn msfrunz. The destruction of all this was utterly unwarrantable. The tapestries with which the hall was hung were all removed about the end of the last century, and now its pictnres, statues, and decorations of Scotland’s elder and latter days replace them. Of the statues of the distinguished Scottish statesmen and lawyers, the most noticeable are a colossal one of Henry first Viscount Melville in his robes as a peer, by Chantrey ; on his left is Lord Cockburn, by Brodie ; Duncan Forbes of Culloden, in his judicial costume as President of the Court, by Roubiliac (a fine example) ; the Lord President Boyle, and Lord Jeffrey, by Steel ; the Lord President Blair (son of the author of “The Grave”), by Chantrey.. . On the opposite or eastern side of the hall (which stands north and south) is the statue of Robert Dundas of Arniston, Lord Chief Baron of the Scottish Exchequer, also by Chautrey; portraits, many of them of considerable antiquity, some by Jameson, a Scottish painter who studied under Rubens at Antwerp. But the most remarkable among the modern portraits are those of Lord Broiigham, by Sir Daniel Macnee, P.R.S.A. ; Lord Colonsay, formerly President of the Court, and the Lord Justice-clerk Hope, both by the same artist. Thete are also two very tine pQrtraits of Lord Abercrombie and Professor Bell, by Sir Henry Raeburn. Light is given to this interestihg hall by fouI windows on the side, and the great window on the south. It is of stained glass, and trulymagnificent. It was erected in 1868 at a cost of Az,ooo, and was the work of two German artists, having been designed by Wilhelm von Kaulbach, and executed by the Chevalier Ainmiller of Munich. It repre. sents the inauguration of the College of Justice, 01: the Supreme Court of Scotland, by King Tames V., in 1532. The opening of the court is supposed by the artist to have been the. occasion of a grand state ceremonial, and the moment chosen for representation is that in which the young king, surrounded by his nobles and great officers of state, is depicted in the ,act of presenting the charter of institution and of confirniation by Pope Clement VII. to Alexander Mylne, Abbot of Cambuskenneth, the first Lord President, wha kneels before him to receive it, surrounded by the other judges in their robes, while the then Lord Chancellor of Scotland, Gavin Dunbar, ArchbishoF of Glasgow, and afterwards of St. Andrews, with upraised hand invokes a.blessing on the act. In 1870 the four side windows on the west of the la11 were filled in with stained glass Qf a heraldic :haracter, under the superintendence of the late Sir George Harvey, president of the Royal Scottish kcadeniy. Each window is twenty feet high ~y nine wide, divided by a central mullion, the :racery between being occupied by the armorial learings and crests of the various Lord Justice- Zlerks, the great legal writers of the Faculty of Advocates, those of the Deans of Faculty, and the Lords Advocate. This old hall has been the scene of many a ;reat event and many a strange debate, and most Df the proceedings that took place here belong to the history of the country j for with the exception of the Castle and the ancient portion of Holyrood, no edifice in the city is so rich in historic memories. Beneath the old roof consecrated to these, says one of its latest chroniclers, “ the first ’great movements of the Civil War took place, and the successive steps in that eventful crisis were debated with a zeal commensurate to the important results involved in them. Here Montrose united with Rothes, Lindsay, Loudon, and others of the covenanting leaders, in maturing the bold measures that formed the basis of our national liberties ; and within the same hall, only a few years later, he sat with the calmness of despair, to receive from the lips of his old compatriot, Loudon, the barbarous sentence, which was executed with such savage rigour.” After his victory at Dunbar, some of Cromwell’s troopers in their falling bands, buff coats, and steel morions, spent their time alternately in preaching to the people in the Parliament Hall and guarding a number of Scottish prisoners of war who were confined in “ the laigh Parliament House ” below it On the 17th of May, 1654, some of these contrived to cut a hole in the floor of the great hall, and all effected their escape save two; but when peace was established between Croniwell and the Scots, and the Courts of Law resumed their sittings, the hall was restored to somewhat of its legitimate uses, and there, in 1655, the leaders of the Commonwealth, including General Monk, were feasted with a lavish hospitality. In 1660, under the auspices of the same republican general, came to pass “ the - glorious Restoration,” when the magistrates had a banquet Ft the cross, and gave _~;I,OOO sterling to the king; and his brother, the Duke of Albany and York, who came as Koyal Commissioner, was feasted in the same hall with his Princess Mary d’Este and his daughter, the future Queen Anne, surrounded by all the high-born and beautiful in Scotland. But dark ... GREAT WINCOW. ‘59 Parliament Hoox.] obelisks, with the motto Bominus cusfodif infroifurn msfrunz. The ...

Vol. 1  p. 159 (Rel. 0.29)

‘‘ Letters,” that the Countess of Stair was subject to hysterical fits-the result perhaps of all she had undergone as a wife. After being long the queen of society in Edinburgh, she died in November, 1759, twelve years after the death of the Marshal. She was the first person in the city, of her time, who had a black domestic servant. Another dowager, the Lady Clestram, succeeded her in the old house in the close. It was advertised for sale, at the upset price of A250, in the Edinburgh Advertiser of 1789; and is described as “that large dwelling-house, sometime belonging to the Dowager Countess of Stair, situated at the entry to the Earthen Mound. The sunk storey consists of a good kitchen, servants’ rooms, closets, cellars, &c. j the second of a dining and bed rooms ; the third storey of a dining and five bed rooms.” It has long since been the abode of the humblest artisans. The parents of Miss Fetrier, the well-known novelist, according to a writer in T’jZe Bar for November, 1878, occupied a flat in Lady Stair‘s Close after their .marriage. Mrs. Femer ( d e Coutts) was the daughter of a farmer at Gourdon, near Montrose, and was a woman of remarkable beauty, as her portrait by Sir George Chalmers, Bart. (a native of Edinburgh) in 1765 attests. At the time of her mamage, in 1767, she had resided in Holyrood with her aunt, the Hon. Mrs. Maitland, widow of a younger son of Lord Lauderdale; and the flat the young mamed couple took in the old close had just been vacated by Sir James Pulteney and his wife Lady Bath. When Sir Richard Steele, of the Spectator, visited Edinburgh, in 1717, on the business of the Forfeited Estates Commission, we know not whether he resided in Lady Stair’s Close, but it is recorded that he gave, in a tavern there, a whimsical supper, to all the eccentric-looking mendicants in the city, giving them the enjoyment of an abundant feast, that he might witness their various oddities. Richard Sheils mentions this circumstance, and adds that Steele confessed afterwards that he had “drunk enough of native drollery to compose a comedy.” Upper Baxter‘s Close, the adjoining alley, is associated with the name of Robert Burns. There the latter, in 1786, saved from a heartless and hopeless exile by the generosity of the blind poet, Dr. Blacklock, came direct from the plough and the banks of his native Ayr, to share the humble room and bed of his friend Richmond, a lawyer‘s clerk, in the house of Mrs. Carfrae. But a few weeks before poor Bums had made arrangements to go to Jamaica as joint overseer on an estate; but the publication of his poems was deemed such a jUCCeSS, that he altered his plans, and came to Edinburgh in the November of that year. In one Jf the numbers of the Lounger appeared a review 3f the first (or Kilmarnock) edition of his poems, written by Henry Mackenzie, who was thus the means, together with Dr. Blacklock, of kindly bringing Burns before the learned and fashionable circles of Edinburgh. His merited fame had come before him, and he was now caressed by all ranks. His brilliant conversational powers seem to have impressed all who came in contact with him as much as admiration of his poetry. Under the patronage of Principal Robertson, Professor Dugald Stewart, Henry Mackenzie, author of the “ Man of Feeling,’’ and Sir John Whiteford of that ilk, but more than all of James Earl of Glencaim, and other eminent persons, a new edition of his poems was published in April, 1787 ; but amid all the adulation he received he ever maintained his native simplicity and sturdy Scottish independence of character. By the Earl of Glencaim he was introduced to the members of the Caledonian Hunt, and he dedicated to them the second edition of his poems In verse he touchingly records his gratitude to the earl :- ‘( The bridegroom may forget the bride The monarch may forget the crown The mother may forget the child But I’ll remember thee, Glencairn, Was made ’his wedded wife yestreen ; That on his head an hour has been ; That smiles sae sweetly on her knee ; And all that thou hast done for me!” Bums felt acutely the death of this amiable and accomplished noble, which occurred in 1791. The room occupied by Bums in Baxter‘s Close, and from which he was wont to sally firth to dine and sup with the magnates of the city, is still pointed out, with its single window which opens into Lady Stair’s Close. There, as Allan Cunningham records, he had but “his share of a deal table,a sanded floor, and a chaff bed, at eighteenpence a week.” According to the same biographer, the impression which Burns made at first on the fair, the titled, and the learned, of Edinburgh, “though lessened by intimacy on the part of the men, remained unimpaired on that of the softer sex till his dying day. His company, during the season of balls and festivities, continued to be courted by all who desired to be reckoned gay or polite. Cards of invitation fell thick. on him; he was not more welcomed to the plumed and jewelled groups whom her fascinating Grace of Gordon gathered about her, than he was to the grave divines and polished scholars who assembled ... Letters,” that the Countess of Stair was subject to hysterical fits-the result perhaps of all she ...

Vol. 1  p. 106 (Rel. 0.28)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Craigmillar. -- 58 competition, the first prize for the chapel, &c., was awarded to James Grant, Hope Park End. Skirting the cemetery on the west, the Powburn here tums south, and running under Cameron Bridge, after a bend, turns acutely north, and flows through the grounds of Prestonfield towards Duddingston Loch. Out of his lands of Cameron, Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar, in 1474, gave an annual rent of ten marks to a chaplain in the church of Musselburgh. Craigmillar Park and Craigmillar Road take their name from the adjacent ruined castle ; and at Bridge-end, at the base of the slope on which it stands, James V. had a hunting-lodge and chapel, some traces of which still exist in the form of a stable. On the summit of an eminence, visible from the whole surrounding country-the crazg-moiZwd of antiquity (the high bare rock, no doubt, it once was) -stands the venerable Castle of Craigmillar, with a history nearly as long as that of Holyrood, and which is inseparably connected with that of Edinburgh, having its silent records of royalty and rank-its imperishable memories of much that has perished for ever. The hill on which it stands, in view of tile encroaching city-which ’ bids fair some day to surround it-is richly planted with young wood ; but in the immediate vicinity of the ruin some of the old ancestral trees remain, where they have braved the storms of centuries. Craigmillar is remarkable as being the only family mansion in Scotland systematically built on the principles of fortification in use during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. In the centre tower, the square donjon keep is of the earliest age of baronial architecture, built we know not when, or by whom, and surrounded now by an external wall, high and strong, enclosing a considerable area, with round flanking towers about sixty feet apart in front, to protect the curtains between-all raised in. those ages of strife and bloodshed when our Scottish nobles- “Carved at the meal with gloves of steel, And drank aeir wine through the helmet barredr” Its lofty and stately vaulted hall measures thirty-six feet long by twenty-two feet in breadth, with a noble fireplace eleven feet wide, and on the lower portions of it some remnants of old paintings may be traced, and on the stone slab of one 01 the windows a diagram for playing an old knightly game called “Troy.” There are below it several gloomy dungeons, in one of which John Pinkerton, Advocate, and Mr. Irvine, W.S., discovered in 1813 a human skeleton, built into the wall upright. What dark secrets the old walls of this castle could tell, had their stones tongues ! for an old, old house it is, full of thrilling historical and warlike memories. Besides the keep and the older towers, there is within the walls a structure of more modern sppearance, built in the seventeenth century. This is towards the west, where a line of six handsome gableted dormer windows on each side of a projecting chimney has almost entirely disappeared ; one bore the date MDC. Here a stair led to the castle gardens, in which can be traced a large pond in the form of a p, the initial letter of the old proprietor’s name. Here, says Balfour, in I 509, ‘‘ there were two scorpions found, one dead, the other alive.” There are the dilapidated remains of a chapel, measuring thirty feet by twenty feet, with a large square and handsomely-mullioned window, and a mutilated font. It was built by Sir +John Gilmour, who had influence enough to obtain a special ‘‘ indulgence ” therefor from King James VII. It is a stable now. ‘‘ On the boundary wall,” says Sir Walter Scott, “may be seen the arms of Cockburn of Ormiston, Congalton of Congalton, Mowbray of Barnbougle, and Otterbum of Redford, allies of the Prestons of Craigmillar. In one corner of the court, over a portal arch, are the arms of the family: three unicorns’ heads coupid, with a cheese-press and barrel, or tun-a wretched rebus, to express their name of Preston.” This sculptured fragment bears the date 1510. The Prestons of Craigmillar carried their shield above the gate, in the fashion called by the Italians smdopmdente, which is deemed more honourable than those carried square, according to Rosehaugh’s “ Science of Heraldry.” On the south the castle is built on a perpendicular rock. Round the exterior walls was a deep moat, and one of the advanced round towers-the Dovecot-has loopholes for arrows or musketry. The earliest possessor of whom we have record is “Henry de Craigmillar,” or William Fitz- Henry, of whom there is extant a charter of gift of a certain toft of land in Craigmillar, near the church of Liberton, to the monastery of Dunfermline, in I z I 2, during the reign of King Alexander 11. The nearer we conie to the epoch of the long and glorious War of Independence, the more generally do we find the lands in the south of Scotland in the hands of Scoto-Nbrman settlers. John de Capella was Lord of Craigmillar, from whose family the estate passed into the hands of Simon Preston, in 1374, he receiving a charter, under ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Craigmillar. -- 58 competition, the first prize for the chapel, &c., was awarded to ...

Vol. 5  p. 58 (Rel. 0.28)

Le:th.] LANDING OF QUEEN MARY. 179 Thus the whole line of fortifications facing the city were levelled, but those on the east remained long entire; and considerable traces of them were only removed about the beginning of the eighteenth century. On the 20th of August, 1560, Queen Mary landed at the town to take possession of the throne of her ancestors. The time was about eight in the morning, and Leith must have presented a different aspect than in the preceding year, when the cannon of the besiegers thundered against its walls. No vestige now remains of the pier which received her, though it must have been constructed subsequent to the destruction of the older one by the savage Earl of Hertford-the pier at which Magdalene of France, the queen of twenty summer days, had landed so joyously in the May of 1537. The keys of St. Anthony’s Port were delivered to Mary, who was accompanied by her three uncles- Claude of Lorraine, Duc d’Aumale, who was killed at the siege of Rochelle thirteen years after; Francis, Grand Prior of Malta, general of the galleys of France, who died of fatigue after the battle of Dreux; and Rend, Marquisd’Elbeuff, who succeeded Francis as general of the galleys. She was attended also by her ‘‘ four Maries,” whose names, as given by Bishop Leslie, were Fleming, Beaton, Livingstone, and Seaton, who had been all along with her in France. Buchanan in 1565 mentions five Maries, and the treasurer’s account at the same date mentions si;., including two whose names were Simparten and Wardlaw. The cheers of the people mingled with the boom of cannon, and, says Buchansn, “the dangers she had undergone, the excellence of her mien, the delicacy of her beauty, the vigour of her blooming years, and the elegance of her wit, all joined in her recommendation.” As the genial Ettrick Shepherd wrote :- ‘‘ After a youth by woes o’ercast, After a thousand sorrows past, The lovely Mary once again Set foot upon her native plain ; Kneeled on the pier with modest grace, And turned to heaven her beauteous face . . . I . There rode the lords of France and Spain, Of England, Flanders, and Lorraine ; While semed thousands round them stood, From shore of Leith to Holyrood.” But Knox’s thunder was growling in the distance, as he records that ‘‘ the very face of heaven did manifestlie speak what comfort was brought to this country with hir-to wit, sorrow, dolour, darkness, and all impiety; for in the memory of man never was seyn a more dolorous face of the heaven than was at her arryvall . . . . . the myst was so thick that skairse mycht onie man espy another ; .and the sun was not seyn to shyne two days befoir nor two days after !IJ Four years after this the poor young queen, among other shifts to raise money in her difficulties, mortgaged the superiority of Leith to the city of Edinburgh, redeemable for 1,000 merks ; and in 1566 she requested the Town Council by a letter to delay the assumption of that superiority ; but she could only obtain a short indulgence to prevent the consequence of her hasty act falling on the devoted seaport. In 1567, taking advantage of the general confusion of the queen’s affairs, on the 4th of July the Provost, bailies, deacons, and the whole craftsmen of the city, armed and equipped in warlike array, with pikes, swords, and arquebuses, marched to Leith, and went through some evolutions, meant to represent or constitute the capture and conquest of the town, and formally trampled its independence in the dust. From the Links the magistrates finally marched to the Tolbooth, in the wynd which still bears its name, and on the stair thereof held a court, creating bailies, sergeants, clerks, and deemsters, in virtue of the infeftment made to them by the queen ; and the superiority thus established was maintained, too often with despotic rigour, till Leith attained its independence after the passing of the Reform Bill in 1832. During the contention between Morton and the queen’s party, when the former was compelled with his followers to take shelter in Leith, where thq Regent Mar had established his headquarters on the 12th of January, 1571, a convention, usually but erroneously called a General Assembly of the Kirk, was convened there, and sat till the 1st of February, and in it David Lindsay, minister of Leith, took a prominent part. The opening sermon on this occasion was lately reprinted by Principal Lee. It is now extremely scarce, and is entitled “ Ane sermon preichit befoir the Regent and nobilitie, in the Kirk of Leith, 1571, by David Fergussone, minister of the Evangell at Dunfermlyne. The sermon approvit by John Knox, with my dead hand but glaid heart, praising God that of His mercy He lenis such light to His Kirk in this desolation.” M‘Crie says that the last public service of Knox was the examination and approval of this sermon. During the minority of James VI. Leith figured in many transactions which belong strictly to the general history of the realm ; thus from November, 1571, till the August of the following year, it was the seat of the Court of Justiciary, and again in thus :- ... LANDING OF QUEEN MARY. 179 Thus the whole line of fortifications facing the city were levelled, but those ...

Vol. 5  p. 179 (Rel. 0.28)

214 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. memorials of still earlier fabrics here and there meet the eye, and carry back the imagination to those stirring scenes in the history of this locality, \+hen the Queen Regent, with her courtiers and allies, made it their stronghold and chosen place of abode ; or when, amid a more peaceful array, the fair Scottish Queen Mary, or the sumptuous Anne of Denmark, rode gaily through the street on their way to Holyrood.” It is a street that carries back the mind to the days of Wood and the Bartons, when the port of Leith was in constant communication with Bordeaux and the Garonne, and when the Scots of those days were greater claret drinkers than the English ; and when commerce here was as we find it detailed in the ledger of Andrew Haliburton, the merchant of Middelburg and Conservator of Scot- ’ tish Privileges there, between 1493 and 1505-a ledger that gives great insight to the imports at Leith and elsewhere in Scotland. Haliburton acted as agent for churchmen as well as laymen, receiving and selling on commission the raw products of the Netherlands, and sending home nearly every kind of manufactured article then in use. He appears often to have visited Edinburgh, settling old accounts and arranging new ventures ; and with that piety which in those days formed so much a part of the inner life of the Scottish people? the word JHESUS is inscribed on every account. Haliburton appears to have imported cloths, silk, linen, and woollen stuffs; wheelbarrows to build King’s College, Aberdeen ; fruit, dyugs, and plate ; Gascony, Rhenish, and Malvoisie mines ; pestles, mortars, brass basins, ’and feather beds ; an image of St. Thomas ZL Becket, from Antwerp, for John of Pennycuik ; tombstones from Middelburg ; mace, pepper, saffron, and materials for Walter Chapman, the early Scottish printer, if not the first in Scotland. We reproduce (p. 212) Wilson’s view of one of the oldest houses in the Kirkgate, which was only taken down in 1S45. The doorway was moulded; on the frieze was boldly cut in old English letters Pherrarr flaria, and above was a finely-moulded Gothic niche, protected by a sloping water-table. A stone gurgoyle projected from the upper storey. Local tradition asserted that the edifice was a chapel built by Mary of Lorraine ; but of this there is no evidence. In the niche, no doubt, stood an image, which would be destroyed at the Reformation. Above the niche there was a small square aperture, in which it was customary, as is the case now in Continental towns, to place a light after nightfall, in order that passers-by might see the shrine and ,make obeisance td it. Another very old house on the same side of the Kirkgate, the west, displays a handsome triple arcade of three round arches on squat pillars, with square moulded capitals, a great square chimney rising through the centre of the roof, and a staircase terminating a‘crowstepped gable to the street. A tavern in the Kirkgate, kept by a man named John Brown, and which, to judge from the social position of its visitors, must have been a respectable house of entertainment, was the scene of a tragedy on the 8th of March, 1691. Sinclair of Mey, and a friend named James Sinclair, writer in Edinburgh, were at their lodgings in this tavern, when at a late hour the Master of Tarbet (afterwards Earl of Cromarty) and Ensign Andrew Mowat came to join them. “ There was no harm’ meant by any one that night in the hostelry of John Brown, but before midnight the floor was reddened with slaughter.” The Master of Tarbet, son of a statesman of no mean note, was nearly related to Sinclair of Mey. He and the ensign are described in the subsequent proceedings as being both excited by the liquor they had taken, but not beyond self-control. A . pretty girl, named Jean Thompson, on bringing them a fresh supply, was laughingly invited by the Master to sit beside him, but escaped to her own room, and bolted herself in. Running in pursuit of her, he went blunderingly into a room occupied by a French gentleman, named George Poiret, who was asleep. An altercation took place between them, on which Ensign Mowat went to see what was the matter. The Frenchman had drawn his sword, but the two friends wrenched it out of his hand. A servant of the house, named Christian Erskine, now came on the scene of brawling, together with a gentleman who could not be afterwards identified. At her urgent entreaty, Mowat took away the Master and the stranger, who carried with him Poiret’s sword. Here the fracas would have ended, had not the Master deemed it his duty to return and apologise. Exasperated to find a new disturbance, as he deemed it, at his room door, the Frenchman knocked on the ceiling with tongs to summon to his assistance his two brothers, Isaac Poiret and Elias, surnamed the Sieur de la Roche, who at once came down, armed with their swords and pistols, and spoke with George, who was defenceless and excited, at his door; and in a moment there came about a hostile collision between them and the Master and Mowat in the hall. Jean Thompson roused Brown, the landlord, but he came too late. The Master and Mowat were ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. memorials of still earlier fabrics here and there meet the eye, and carry back ...

Vol. 6  p. 214 (Rel. 0.28)

doultay’s Hi11.1 THE LYON KING-OF-ARMS. 37= _. able testimonial, signed and sealed by all the members of that corporation. When the Civil War broke out, though a staunch Presbyterian, Sir James remained loyal to the king, for whose Scots Under the Lord Lyon were the messengers-atarms, whose duty is still to execute all summonses before the Court of Session, to apprehend the persons of debtors, and generally to perform the executive parts of the law. By the twelfth Parliament of James VI. and the second Parliament of Charles 11. it is defined that the province of the Lyon-who takes his name from the emblem in the royal standard-is to adjust matters of precedence, and marshal public processions ; also to inspect the coats of arms of the nobility and gentry; to punish those who assume arms to which they have no hereditary right ; to bestow coats of arms upon the deserving ; to grant supporters in certain cases; and to take cognisance of, and to punish, offences committed by messengers-at-arms in the course of their office. Of old, and before it degenerated into a mere legal sinecure, the office was one of great dignity, and the person of the holder was deemed almost sacred. Thus, Bishop Lesly tells us in his history that in 1515 the aged Lord Drummond was forfeited “ for striking the Lyon, and narrowly escaped the loss of his life and dignity.” In 1530 the office of Lord Lyon was bestowed by James V. upon Sir David Lindesay of the Mount, the celebrated poet, moralist, and reformer, whom, four years after, he sent as an ambassador to Germany, and in 1548 in a similar capacity to Denmark. It was an office imposed upon the Lord Lyon to receive foreign ambassadors, and Lindesay did this honour to Sir Ralf Sadler, who came froni England in 1539-40; and in 1568 Sir David Lindesay of Rathuleit was solemnly crowned King-of-arms, in presence of the Regent and nobility ; and in 1603, as Balfour tells us, “ Sir David Lindesay of Mount, Lyone King-of-arms,” proclaimed at the Cross the accession of James VI. to the English throne. On the 15th of June, 1630, Sir Jerome Lyndsay of Annatland resigned the office in favour of Sir James Balfour of Denmylne, who was crowned as Lyon King by George Earl of Kinnoul, Chancellor of Scotland, acting as royal commissioner, and in 1633 he was created a baronet. Balfour, an eminent antiquary and annalist, was well versed in heraldry, to perfect the study of which, before his appointment, he proceeded to London and became acquainted with Sir Robert Cotton, and Sir William Segar the Garter King, who obtained for him from the heralds’ college a highly honour- ’ “The office of Lord Lyon has of late,” says Amot, been held as a sinecure. . . , . The business, therefore, is entirely committed to dewties, who manage it in such a manner that. in a Guards he designed colours in 1649 ; but was deprived of his office by Cromwell, after which be retired to Fifeshire, and collected many manuscripts on the science of heraldry and connected with Scottish history, prior to his death in 1657, and these are now preserved in the Advocates’ Library. A fine portrait of him is prefixed to his Annales,” published at Edinburgh in 1824. The installation of a Lyon King is given fully in an account of “The order observed at the coronation of Sir Alexander Erskirie of Cambo, Baronet, Lord Lyon King-of-arms, at the royal palace of Holyrood House, on the 27th day of July, 1681, his Royal Highness James Duke of Albany and York being his Majesty’s High Commissioner.” In the ceremony of installation the Lord Lyon is duly crowned ; and Sir Alexander was the last who was thus crowned. His father, Sir Charles Erskine of Cambo, had previously been Lyon King, of which office he obtained a “ratification,” by Parliament in 1672, with remainder to his son. In 1703 the chief Scottish work on heraldry was published by Alexander Nisbet of that ilk, to whom the Scottish Parliament gave a grant of Lz48 6s. 8d. to assist him in bringing it forth. It is related in MacCormick‘s “ Life of Principal Carstairs,” that when the latter was a prisoner in the Castle of Edinburgh in 1685, an engaging boy about twelve years of age, son of Erskine of Cambo, then constable of the fortress, used to come almost daily to the open grating of his dungeon, and was wont to sit there for hours, “lamenting his unhappy situation, and endeavouring by a thousand innocent and childish means to divert him. Sonietimes the boy brought him packages of fruit and provisions (more delicate than the coarse fare of the prison), and, what were of more importance, pens, ink, and paper, and when the prisoner wrote letters carried them to the post.” Years elapsed ere the unfortunate Carstairs could testify his gratitude ; but when the Revolution came and the hand of misfortune fell heavily on the Cavalier Erskines of Cambo, the Principal, then high in favour with William III., remembered his little friend of the bitter past in the Castle of Edinburgh; and one of the first favours he asked the new king was to bestow the office of Lord Lyon upon the young heir of Cambo. The request was granted, with the additional favour that it was made hereditary in the family ; but it was soon after forfeited by their joining the Earl of Mar in 1715. ... Hi11.1 THE LYON KING-OF-ARMS. 37= _. able testimonial, signed and sealed by all the members of that ...

Vol. 2  p. 371 (Rel. 0.28)

doultay’s Hi11.1 THE LYON KING-OF-ARMS. 37= _. able testimonial, signed and sealed by all the members of that corporation. When the Civil War broke out, though a staunch Presbyterian, Sir James remained loyal to the king, for whose Scots Under the Lord Lyon were the messengers-atarms, whose duty is still to execute all summonses before the Court of Session, to apprehend the persons of debtors, and generally to perform the executive parts of the law. By the twelfth Parliament of James VI. and the second Parliament of Charles 11. it is defined that the province of the Lyon-who takes his name from the emblem in the royal standard-is to adjust matters of precedence, and marshal public processions ; also to inspect the coats of arms of the nobility and gentry; to punish those who assume arms to which they have no hereditary right ; to bestow coats of arms upon the deserving ; to grant supporters in certain cases; and to take cognisance of, and to punish, offences committed by messengers-at-arms in the course of their office. Of old, and before it degenerated into a mere legal sinecure, the office was one of great dignity, and the person of the holder was deemed almost sacred. Thus, Bishop Lesly tells us in his history that in 1515 the aged Lord Drummond was forfeited “ for striking the Lyon, and narrowly escaped the loss of his life and dignity.” In 1530 the office of Lord Lyon was bestowed by James V. upon Sir David Lindesay of the Mount, the celebrated poet, moralist, and reformer, whom, four years after, he sent as an ambassador to Germany, and in 1548 in a similar capacity to Denmark. It was an office imposed upon the Lord Lyon to receive foreign ambassadors, and Lindesay did this honour to Sir Ralf Sadler, who came froni England in 1539-40; and in 1568 Sir David Lindesay of Rathuleit was solemnly crowned King-of-arms, in presence of the Regent and nobility ; and in 1603, as Balfour tells us, “ Sir David Lindesay of Mount, Lyone King-of-arms,” proclaimed at the Cross the accession of James VI. to the English throne. On the 15th of June, 1630, Sir Jerome Lyndsay of Annatland resigned the office in favour of Sir James Balfour of Denmylne, who was crowned as Lyon King by George Earl of Kinnoul, Chancellor of Scotland, acting as royal commissioner, and in 1633 he was created a baronet. Balfour, an eminent antiquary and annalist, was well versed in heraldry, to perfect the study of which, before his appointment, he proceeded to London and became acquainted with Sir Robert Cotton, and Sir William Segar the Garter King, who obtained for him from the heralds’ college a highly honour- ’ “The office of Lord Lyon has of late,” says Amot, been held as a sinecure. . . , . The business, therefore, is entirely committed to dewties, who manage it in such a manner that. in a Guards he designed colours in 1649 ; but was deprived of his office by Cromwell, after which be retired to Fifeshire, and collected many manuscripts on the science of heraldry and connected with Scottish history, prior to his death in 1657, and these are now preserved in the Advocates’ Library. A fine portrait of him is prefixed to his Annales,” published at Edinburgh in 1824. The installation of a Lyon King is given fully in an account of “The order observed at the coronation of Sir Alexander Erskirie of Cambo, Baronet, Lord Lyon King-of-arms, at the royal palace of Holyrood House, on the 27th day of July, 1681, his Royal Highness James Duke of Albany and York being his Majesty’s High Commissioner.” In the ceremony of installation the Lord Lyon is duly crowned ; and Sir Alexander was the last who was thus crowned. His father, Sir Charles Erskine of Cambo, had previously been Lyon King, of which office he obtained a “ratification,” by Parliament in 1672, with remainder to his son. In 1703 the chief Scottish work on heraldry was published by Alexander Nisbet of that ilk, to whom the Scottish Parliament gave a grant of Lz48 6s. 8d. to assist him in bringing it forth. It is related in MacCormick‘s “ Life of Principal Carstairs,” that when the latter was a prisoner in the Castle of Edinburgh in 1685, an engaging boy about twelve years of age, son of Erskine of Cambo, then constable of the fortress, used to come almost daily to the open grating of his dungeon, and was wont to sit there for hours, “lamenting his unhappy situation, and endeavouring by a thousand innocent and childish means to divert him. Sonietimes the boy brought him packages of fruit and provisions (more delicate than the coarse fare of the prison), and, what were of more importance, pens, ink, and paper, and when the prisoner wrote letters carried them to the post.” Years elapsed ere the unfortunate Carstairs could testify his gratitude ; but when the Revolution came and the hand of misfortune fell heavily on the Cavalier Erskines of Cambo, the Principal, then high in favour with William III., remembered his little friend of the bitter past in the Castle of Edinburgh; and one of the first favours he asked the new king was to bestow the office of Lord Lyon upon the young heir of Cambo. The request was granted, with the additional favour that it was made hereditary in the family ; but it was soon after forfeited by their joining the Earl of Mar in 1715. ... Hi11.1 THE LYON KING-OF-ARMS. 37= _. able testimonial, signed and sealed by all the members of that ...

Vol. 2  p. 370 (Rel. 0.28)

Canongate.] THE TENNIS COURT. ’ 39 Scotland, and who for some years had been Commissioner to the General Assembly. In this house he died, 28th July, 1767, as recorded in the Scots Magazine, and was succeeded by his son, Major- General the Earl of Ancrum, Colonel of the 11th Light Dragoons (now Hussars). His second son, Lord Robert, had been killed at Culloden. His marchioness, Margaret, the daughter of Sir Thomas Nicholson, Bart., of Kempnay, who survived him twenty years, resided in Lothian Hut till her death. It was afterwards occupied by the dowager of the ‘ fourth Marquis, Lady Caroline D’Arcy, who was only daughter of Robert Earl of Holderness, and great-grand-daughter of Charles Louis, the Elector Palatine, a lady whose character is remembered traditionally to have been both grand and amiable. Latterly the Hut was the residence of Professor Dugald Stewart, who, about the end of the last century, entertained there many English pupils of high rank. Among them, perhaps the most eminent was Henry Temple, afterwards Lord Palmerston, whose education, commenced at Harrow, was continued at the University of Edinburgh. When he re-visited the latter city in 1865, during his stay he was made aware that an aged woman, named Peggie Forbes, who had been a servant with Dugald Stewart at Lothian Hut, was still alive, and residing at No. I, Rankeillor Street. There the great statesman visited her, and expressed the pleasure he felt at renewing the acquaintance of the old domestic. Lothian Hut, the scene of Dugald Stewart’s most important literary labours, was pulled down ih 1825, to make room for a brewery ; but a house of the same period, at the south-west corner of the Horse Wynd, bears still the name of Lothian Vale. A little to the eastward of the present White Horse hostel, and immediately adjoining the Water Gate, stood the Hospital of St. Thomas, founded in 154r by George Crichton, Bishop of Dunkeld, “dedicated to God, the Blessed Virgin Mary, and all the saints.” It consisted of an almshouse and chapel, the bedesmen of which were “to celebrate the founder’s anniversary obit. by solemnly singing in the choir of Holyrood church yearly, on the day of his death, ‘the Placebo and Dinie for the repose of his soul ” and the soul of the King of Scotland. “ Special care,” says Amot, “ was taken in allotting money for providing candles to be lighted during the anniversary ma.ss of requiem, and the number and size of the tapers were fixed with a precision which shows the importance in which these circumstances were held by the founder. The number of masses, paternosters, aye-marias, and credos, to be said by the chaplain and bedesmen is distinctly ascertained.” The patronage of the institution was vested by the founder in himself and a certain series of representatives named by him. In 1617, with the consent of David Crichton of Lugton, the patron, who had retained possession of the endowments, the magistrates of the Canongate purchased the chapel and almshouse from the chaplains and bedesmen, and converted the institution into a hospital for the poor of the burgh. Over the entrance they placed the Canongate arms, supported by a pair of ‘cripples, an old man and woman, with the inscription- HELP HERE THE POORE, AS ZE WALD GOD DID ZOV. JUNE 19, 1617. The magistrates of the Canongate sold the patronage of the institution in 1634 to the Kirk Session, by whom its revenues “ were entirely embezzled f by 1747 the buildings were turned into coachhouses, and in 1787 were pulled down, and replaced by modem houses of hideous aspect. On the opposite side of the Water Gate was the Royal Tennis Court, the buildings of which are very distinctly shown in Gordon’s map of 1647. Maitland says it was anciently called the Catchpel, from Cache, a game now called Fives, a favourite amusement in Scotland as early as the reign of James IV. The house, a long, narrow building, with a court, after being a weavers’ workhouse, was burned down in 1771, and rebuilt in the tasteless fashion of that period ; but the locality is full of interest, as being connected not only with the game of tennis, as played there by the Duke of Albany, Law the great financial schemer, and others, but the early and obscure history of the stage in Scotland. In 1554 there was a ‘‘litill farsche and play maid be William Lauder,” and acted before the Queen Regent, Mary of Guise, for which he was rewarded by two silver cups. Where it was acted is not stated. Neither are we told where was perlormed another play, “ made by Robert Simple ” at Edinburgh, before the grim Lord Regent and others of the nobility in 1567, and for which the mthor was paid ;E66 13s. 4d. The next record of .a post-Reformation theatre is in the time of James VI. when several companies came from London for the amusement of the court, including one of which Shakspere was a member, though his appearance cannot be substantiated. In 1599 the company of English comedians was interdicted by the clergy and Kirk Session, though their performances, says Spottiswoode in ... THE TENNIS COURT. ’ 39 Scotland, and who for some years had been Commissioner to the General ...

Vol. 3  p. 39 (Rel. 0.28)

,204 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. CHAPTER XXIIL THE HIGH STREET (continuedJ. The Black Turnpike-Bitter Receytion of Queen Mary-hmbie’s Bannrr-Mary in the Black Turnpike-The House of Fentonbarns-Its Picturesque Appearance-The House of Bassandyne the Printer, 1574-“ tllshop’s Land,” Town House of Archbishop Spottiswood-Its various Tenants-Sir Stuart Thriepland -The Town-house of the Hendersons of Fordel-The Lodging of the Earls of Crawford-The First Shop of Allan Ramsay-The Religious Feeling of the People-Anmm House-The First Shop of Constable and Co.-Manners and Millar, Booksellers. ON the south side of this great thoroughfare and immediately opposite to the City Guard House, stood the famous Black Turnpike. It occupied the ground westward of the Tron church, and now left vacant as the entrance to Hunter’s Square, It is described as a magnificent edifice by Maitland, and one that, if not disfigured by one of those timber fronts (of the days of James IV.), would be the most sumptuous building perhaps in Edinburgh. But, like many others, it had rather a painful history. [See view, p. 136.1 “ A principal proprietor of this building,” says Maitland, “has been pleased to show me a deed wherein George Robertson of Lochart, burgess of F,dinburgh, built the said tenement, which refutes the idle story of its being built by Kenneth 111.” The above-mentioned deed is dated Dec. 6, 1461, and, in the year 1508, the same author relates that James IV. empowered the Edinburghers to farm or let the Burghmuir, which they immediately cleared of wood; and in order to encourage people to buy this wood, the Town Council enacted that all persons might extend the fronts of their houses seven feet into the street, whereby the High Street was reduced fourteen feet in breadth, and the appearance of the houses much injured. There is evidence that in the 16th century the Black Turnpike had belonged to George Crichton, Bishop of Dunkeld, in 1527, and Lord Privy Seal. In 1567 it was the town mansion of the provost of the city, Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar, Balgay, and that ilk, ancestor of the Earls of Desmond in Ireland. It was to this edifice that Mary Queen of Scots was brought a prisoner, about nine in the evening of Sunday the 15th of June, by the confederate lords and their troops, after they violated the treaty by which she surrendered to them at Carberry Hill. On the march towards the city the soldiers treated Mary with the utmost insolence and indignity, pouring upon her an unceasing torrent of epithets the most opprobrious and revolting to a female. Whichever way she turned an emblematic banner of white taffety, representing the dead body of the murdered Darnley, with the little king kneeling beside it, was held up before her eyes, stretched out between two spears. She wept; her young heart was wrung with terrible anguish ; she uttered the most mournful complaints, and could scarcely be kept in her saddle. This celebrated but obnoxious standard belonged to the band or company of Captain Lambie, a hired soldier of the Government, slain afterwards, in 1585, in a clan battle on Johnston Moor. Instead of conveying Mary to Holyrood, as Sir William Kirkaldy had promised, in the name of the Lords, they led her through the dark and narrow wynds of the crowded city, surrounded by a fierce, bigoted, and petulant mob, who loaded the air with hootings and insulting cries. The innumerable windows of the lofty houses, and the outside stair-heads -then the distinguishing features of a Scottish street-were crowded with spectators, who railed at her in unison with the crowd below. Mary cried aloud to all gentlemen, who in those days were easily distinguished by the richness of their attire, and superiority of their air-“ I am your queen, your own native princess; oh, suffer me not to be abused thus !” “ But alas for Scottish gallantry, the age of chivalry had passed away!” says the author of “ Kirkaldy’s Memoirs,” whose authorities are Calderwood, Melville, and Balfour. ‘‘ Mary’s face was pale from fear and grief; her eyes were swollen with tears ; her auburn hair hung in disorder about her shoulders ; her fair form was poorly attired in a riding tunic; she was exhausted with fatigue, and covered with the summer dust of the roadway, agitated by the march of so many men; in short, she was scarcely recognis able; yet thus, like some vile criminal led to execution, she was conducted to the house of Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar. The soldiers of the Confederates were long of passing through the gates; the crowd was so dense, and the streets were so narrow, that they filed through, man by man.” At the Black Turnpike she was barbarously thrust into a small stone chamber, only thirteen feet square by eight high, and locked up like a felon-she, the Queen of Scotland, the heiress of England, and the dowager of France! It was then ten o’clock ; the city was almost -dark, but fierce tumult and noise reigned without And this was the queen of whom the scholarly ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. CHAPTER XXIIL THE HIGH STREET (continuedJ. The Black Turnpike-Bitter ...

Vol. 2  p. 204 (Rel. 0.28)

Abbeyhill.] BARON NORTON. I27 CHAPTER XIII. THE DISTRICT OF RESTALRIG. Abhey Hill-Baron Norton-Alex. Campbell and “ Albyn’s Anthology ”--Comely Gardens-Easter Road-St. Margaret’s Well-Church and Legend of St. Triduana-Made Collegiate by James 111.-The Mausoleum-Old Bardns of Restalrig-pe Logans, &c.-Conflict of Black Saturday-Residents of Note-First Balloon in Britain-Rector Adams-The Nisbets of Craigantinnie and Dean-The Millers- The Craieantinnie Tomb and Marbles-The Marionville Traeedv-The Hamlet of Jock‘o Lodge-Mail-bag Robberies in seventeenth and - _ eighteenth centuries-Piershill House and Barracks. AT the Abbey Hill, an old house-in that antiquated but once fashionable suburb, which grew up in the vicinity of the palace of Holyrood-with groups of venerable trees around it, which are now, like itself, all swept away to make room for the present Abbeyhill station and railway to Leith, there lived long the Hon. Fletcher Norton, appointed one of the Barons of the Scottish Exchequer in 1776, with a salary of &2,865 per annum, deemed a handsome income in those days. He was the second son of Fletcher Norton of Grantley in Yorkshire, who was Attorney-General of England in 1762, and was elevated to the British peerage in 1782, as Lord Grantley. He came to Scotland at a time when prejudices then against England and Englishmen were strong and deep, for the rancour excited by the affair of 1745, about thirty years before, was revived by the periodical publication of the Nhth Briton, but Baron Norton soon won the regard of all who knew him. His conduct as a judge increased the respect which his behaviour in private life obtained, His perspicacity easily discovered the true merits of any cause before him, while his dignified and conciliatory manner, joined to the universal confidence which prevailed in his rigid impartiality, reconciled to him even those who suffered by such verdicts as were given against them in consequence of his charges to the juries. He married in 1793 a Scottish lady, a Miss Balmain, and in the Edinburgh society of his time stood high in the estimation of all, “as a husband, father, friend, and master,” according to a print of 1820. “ His fund of information-of anecdotes admirably told-his social disposition, and the gentlemanly pleasantness of his manner, made his society to be universally coveted. Resentment had no place in his bosom. He seemed almost insensible to injury so immediately did he pardon it. Amongst his various pensioners were several who had shown marked ingratitude ; but distress, with him, covered every offence against himself.” He was a warm patron of the amiable and enthusiastic, but somewhat luckless Alexander Campbell, author of “ The Grampians Desolate,” which “fell dead ” from the press, and editor of “ Albyn’s Anthology,” who writes thus in the preface to the first volume of that book in 1816, and which, we may mention, was a “ collection of melodies and local poetry peculiar to Scotland and the isles ” :- “ So far back as the year 1780, while as yet the editor of ‘Albyn’s Anthology’ was an organist to one of the Episcopal chapels in Edinburgh, he projected the present work. Finding but small encouragement at that period, and his attention being directed to pursuits of quite a different nature, the plan was dropped, till by an accidental turn of conversation at a gentleman’s table, the Hon. Fletcher Norton gave a spur to the speculation now in its career. He with that warmth of benevolence peculiarly his own, offered his influence with the Royal Highland Society of Scotland, of which he is a member of long standing, and in conformity with the zeal he has uniformly manifested for everything connected with the distinction and prosperity of our ancient realm, on the editor giving him a rough outline of the present undertaking, the Hon. Baron put it into the hands of Henry Mackenzie, Esq., of the Exchequer, and Lord Bannatyne, whose influence in the society is deservedly great. And immediately on Mr. Mackenzie laying it before a select committee for music, John H. Forbes, Esq. (afterwards Lord Medwyn), as convener of the committee, convened it, and the result was a recommendation to the society at large, who embraced the project cordially, voted a sum to enable the editor to pursue his plan ; and forthwith he set out on a tour through the Highlands and western islands. Having performed a journey (in pursuit of materials for the present work) of between eleven and twelve hundred miles, in which he collected 191 specimens of melodies and Gaelic vocal poetry, he returned to Edinburgh, and laid the fruits of his gleanings before the society, who were pleased to honour with their approbation his success in attempting to collect and preserve the perishing remains of what is so closely interwoven with the history and literature of Scot!and.” From thenceforth the ‘‘ Anthology” was a success, and a second volume appeared in 1818. Under the influence of Baron Norton, Campbell got many able contributors, among whom appear the names of Scott, Hogg, Mrs. Grant of Laggan, RIaturin, and Jamieson. ... BARON NORTON. I27 CHAPTER XIII. THE DISTRICT OF RESTALRIG. Abhey Hill-Baron Norton-Alex. Campbell ...

Vol. 5  p. 127 (Rel. 0.28)

I44 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [George Street. -- already been made in the account of that institution, of which he was the distinguished head. Opposite is a new building occupied as shops and chambers ; and the vast Elizabethan edifice near it is the auction rooms of Dowel1 and Co., built in 1880. The Mercaitile Bank of India, London, and China occupies No. 128, formerly the mansion of Sir James Hall of Dunglass, Bart., a man in his time eminent for his high attainments in geological and chemical science, and author of popular but peculiar works on Gothic architecture. By his wife, Lady Helena Douglas, daughter of Ddnbar, Earl of Selkirk, he had three sons and three daughters-his second son being the well-known Captain Basil Hall, R.N. While retaining his house in George Street, Sir James, between 1808 and 1812, represented the Cornish borough of St. Michael’s in Parliament. He died at Edinburgh, after a long illness, on the z3rd of June, 1832. Collaterally with him, another distiiiguished baronet, Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, was long the occupant of No. 133, to the print of whom Kay appends the simple title of “The Scottish Patriot,” and never was it more appropriately applied. To attempt even an outline of his long, active, and most useful life, would go far beyond our limits ; suffice it to say, that his “ Code of Agriculture” alone has been translated into nearlyevery European language. He was born at Thurso in 1754, and so active had been his mind, so vast the number of his scientific pursuits and objects, that by 1797 he began to suffer seriously from the effects of his over-exertions, and being thus led to consider the subject of health generally, he published, in 1803, a quarto pamphlet, entitled “ Hints on Longevity” -afterwards, in 1807, extended to four volumes 8vo. In 1810 he was made a Privy Councillor, and in the following year, under the administration of the unfortunate Mr. Perceval, was appointed Cashier of Excise for Scotland. On retiring from Parliament, he was succeeded as member for Caithness by his son. He resided in Edinburgh for the last twenty years of his life, and died at his house in George Street in December, 1835, jn his eighty-first year, and was interred in the Chapel Royal at Holyrood. By his first wife he had two children j by tbe second, Diana, daughter of Lord Macdonald, he had thirteen, one of whom, Julia, became Countess of Glasgow. All these attained a stature like his own, so great-being nearly all above six feet-that he was wont playfully to designate the pavement before No. 133 as ‘‘ The Giants’ Causeway.” Sir. John was twice married. St. Andrew’s church stands zoo feet westward if St. Andrew’s Square; it is a plain building of ival form, with a handsome portico, having four ;reat Corinthiafi pillars, and built, says Kincaid, iom a design of Major Fraser, of the Engineers, whose residence was close by it. It was erected .n 178s. It was at first proposed to have a spire of some iesign, now unknown, between the portico and thc body of the church, and for a model of this a young man of the city, named M‘Leish, received a premium of sixty guineas from the magistrates, with the freedom of the city j but on consideration, his design “ was too great in proportion to the space left for its base.” So the present spire, which is 168 feet in height, and for its sky-line is one of the most beautiful in the city, was designed by Major Andrew Fraser, who declined to accept any premium, suggesting that it should be awarded to Mr. Robert Kay, whose designs for a square church on the spot were most meritorious. The last stone of the spire was placed thereon on the 23rd of November, 1787. A chime of bells was placed in it, 3rd June, 1789, “to be rung in the English manner.” The dimensions of this church, as given by Kincaid, are, within the walls from east to west eighty-seven feet, and from north to south sixtyfour feet. “The front, consisting of a staircase and portico, measures forty-one feet, and projects twenty-six and a half feet.” The entrance is nine feet in height by seven feet in breadth. This parish was separated from St. Cuthbert’s in 1785, and since that date parts of it have been assigned to other parishes of more recent erection as the population increased. The church cost A7,000, and is seated for about 1,053. The charge was collegiate, and is chiefly remarkable for the General Assembly’s meeting in 1843, at which occurred the great Disruption, or exodus of the Free Church-one of the most important events in the modern history of Scotland or of the United Kingdom. It originated in a zealous movement of the Presbyterian Church, mainly promoted by the great Chalmers, to put an end to the connection between Church and State. In 1834 the Church had passed a law of its own, ordaining that thenceforth no presentee to a parish should be admitted if opposed by the majority of the male communicants-a law which struck at the system of patronage restored after the Union-a system involving importint1 civil rights. When the Annual Assembly met in St. Andreds Church, in May, 1843, it was generally understood ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [George Street. -- already been made in the account of that institution, of which he ...

Vol. 3  p. 144 (Rel. 0.28)

194 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith of Brockhouse, contracted with the corporation to provide accommodation for soldiers. His agreement was to quarter three companies of infantry “ in the back land in Leith, at Coatfield Gutter, and up the back vennel, where the lane leadeth to the Links,” for which he was to be paid by the town four shillings per week for every man, on finding sufficient bedding, coals, and candles ; but the speculation did not prove remunerative, and much litigation ensued, without consequences (Robertson). On the 8th of February, 1746, when Cumberland was on his march to the north from Perth, the armament of 5,000 Hessian troops, under his brother-inlaw the Prince of Hesse, arrived in Leith Roads to assist in the suppression of the Jacobite clans. He landed that night at the harbour, attended by the Earl of Crawford (so famous in the wars of George II.), by a son of the Duke of Wolfenbuttel, and other persons of distinction ; and was taken to Holyrood, under a salute from the Castle. On the 15th the Duke of Cumberland was to pax him a fornial visit, and they held a council of war in Milton House, after which the Duke set forth again, leaving the Prince of Hesse to follow. Many public persons flocked to welcome the latter, and the ministers of Edinburgh and Leith, we are told, poured forth torrents of vituperation on “ the Pretender and his desperate mob,” for which, to their astonishment, they were sharply rebuked by the Prince, “with the sternest air he could assume ; ” and he told them that Prince Charles was no pretender, but the lawful grandson of James VII., as all men knew; and that it was “very indecent and illmannered in a gentleman, and base and unworthy in a clergyman, to use reproachful and opprobrious names ” (Constable’s Miscel., vol. xvi.). At a supper a Whig gentleman made a remark derogatory of Prince Charles, “to which his Serene Highness replied with great warmth: ‘Sir, I know it to be false. I am personally acquainted with him; he has many great as well as good qualities, and is inferior tu few generals in Europe. We made two campaigns together, and he richly deserves the character the Duke of Berwick gave him from Gaeta to the Duke of Fitzjames.’” The Hessian amy won the esteem of the people of Edinburgh and Leith, and were the first to introduce the use of bl’ack rajjee into this country ; but it soon began the march northward, to uphold the House of Hanover in the Highlands. The utterly defenceless state in which the coast of Scotland was left after the Union caused alarms to be very easily created in time of war. Hence, in July, 1759, the appearance of two large ships in the Firth of Forth, standing off and on, with Dutch colours flying, brought the cavalry in the Canongate, and the infantry in the castle, under arms, with a train of cannon, for the security of Leith, where every man armed himself with whatever came to hand. Why these ships displayed Dutch colours we are not told, but they proved to be the Swaa and one of our own sloops of war, full of impressed men, going south from the Orkney Isles. Four years afterwards peace was proclaimed with France and Spain, by sound of trumpet by the heralds, escorted by Leighton’s Regiment (the 32nd Foot), which fired three volleys of musketry. The ceremony was performed in four places-at the gqtes of the castle and palace, the market cross, and the Shore of Leith. In 1771 Arnot mentions that the latter was very ill-supplied with water, and that, as the streets were neither properly cleaned nor lighted, an Act of Parliament was passed in that year, appointing certain persons from among the magistrates and irhabitants of Edinburgh, the Lords of Session, and Leith Corporation, commissioners of police, empowering theln to put this Act in execution by levying a sum not exceeding sixpence in the pound upon the valued rent of Leith. “The great change upon the streets of Leith,” he adds, “which has since taken place, shows that this act has been judiciously prepared and attentively executed.” Before the great consternation excited in Leith by the advent of Paul Jonesthe town was greatly disturbed by two mutinies among the Highland troops. In 1778, the West Highland Fencibles, who had recently brought with them to Edinburgh Castle sixty-five French prisoners, resented bitterly some innovations on their ancient Celtic garb-particularly the cartridge-box-which they oddly alleged “ no Highland regiment ever wore before ; ’’ and, by a preconcerted plan, the whole battalion, when paraded on the Castle Hill, simultaneously tore them from their shoulders and flung them conteniptuously on the ground, refusing to wear them. A few days after this, the general commanding, having made his own arrangements, marched four companies of the corps to Leith, where they were surrounded by the 10th Light Dragoons-now Hussars- and compelled at the point of the sword to accept the pouches, which were piled up on the Links before them. By a drum-head court-martial held on the spot, several of the ringleaders were tried and flogged, after which the remainder were marched to Berwick. Meanwhile, a company which formed the guard in the Castle, on hearing of this, openly revolted, lowered the portcullis, drew up the bridge, loaded . ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith of Brockhouse, contracted with the corporation to provide accommodation for ...

Vol. 6  p. 194 (Rel. 0.28)

262 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street other services, Charles Philip Count d’artois, brother of the ill-fated Louis XVI., and his son the Duc d’Angoul&me, while, in the earlier years of their exile, they resided at Holyrood, by permission of the British Government, though the people of Scotland liked to view it as in virtue of the ancient Alliance; and a most humble place of worship it must have seemed to the count, who is described as having been “the most gay, gaudy, fluttering, accomplished, luxurious, and expensive prince in Europe.” A doorway inscribed in antique characters of the 16th century, Miserwe mei Dew, gave access to this chapel. It bore a shield in the centre with three mullets in chief, a plain cross, and two swords saltire-waysthe coat armorial of some long-forgotten race. Another old building adjoined, above the door of which was the pious legend ranged in two lines, The feeir of the Lordis the Qegynning of al visdome, but as to the generations of men that dwelt there not even a tradition remains. Lower down, at the south-west corner of the Wynd, there formerly stood the English Episcopal Chapel, founded, in 1722, by the Lord Chief Baron Smith of the Exchequer Court, for a clergyman qualified to take the oaths to Government. To endow it he vested a sum in the public funds for the purpose of yielding A40 per annum to the incumbent, and left the management in seven trustees nominated by himself. The Baron’s chapel existed for exactly a century; it was demolished in 1822, after serving as a place of worship for all loyal and devout Episcopal High Churchmen at a time when Episcopacy and Jacobitism were nearly synonymous terms in Scotland. It was the most fashionable church in the city, and there it was that Dr. Johnson sat in 1773, when on his visit to Boswell. When this edifice was founded, according to Arnot, it was intended that its congregation should unite with others of the Episcopal persuasion in the new chapel ; but the incumbent, differing from his hearers about the mode of his settlement there, chose to withdraw himself again to that in which he was already established. .’ After the accession of George III., “certain officious people ” lodged information against some of the Episcopal clergymen ; ‘‘ but,” says Amot, “ the officers of state, imitating the liberality and clemency of their gracious master, discountenanced such idle and invidious endeavours at oppression.” In the Blackfriars Wynd-though in what part thereof is not precisely known now, unless on the site of Baron Smith‘s chapel-the semi-royal House of Sinclair had a town. mansion. They were Princes and Earls of Orkney, Lords of Roslin, Dukes of Oldenburg, and had a list oE titles that has been noted for its almost Spanish tediousness. In his magnificence, Earl William-who built Roslin Chapel, was High Chancellor in 1455, and ambassador to England in the same year-far surpassed what had often sufficed for the kings of Scotland. His princess, Margaret Douglas, daughter of Archibald Duke of Touraine, according to Father Hay, in his “Genealogie of the Sainte Claires of Rosslyn,” was waited upon by “ seventy-five gentlewomen, whereof fifty-three were daughters of noblemen, all cloathed in velvets and silks, with their chains of gold and other pertinents ; together with two hundred riding gentlemen, who accompanied her in all her journeys. She had carried before her, when she went to Edinburgh, if it were darke, eighty lighted torches. Her lodging was at the foot of Blackfryer Wynde ; so that in a word, none matched her in all the country, save the Queen’s Majesty.’’ Father Hay tells us, too, that Earl William “kept a great court, and was royally served at his own table in vessels of gold and silver : Lord Dirleton being his master of the household, Lord Borthwick his cup bearer, and Lord Fleming his carver, in whose absence they had deputies, viz., Stewart, Laird of Drumlanng ; Tweedie, Laird of Drumrnelzier; and Sandilands, Laird of Calder. He had his halls and other apartments richly adorned with embroidered hangings.” At the south-west end of the Wynd, and abutting on the Cowgate, where its high octagon turret, on six rows of corbels springing from a stone shaft, was for ages a prominent feature, stood the archiepiscopal palace, deemed in its time one of the most palatial edifices of old Edinburgh. It formed two sides of a quadrangle, with aporfe rochlre that gave access to a court behind, and was built by James Bethune, who was Archbishop of Glasgow (1508-1524), Lord Chancellor of Scotland in I 5 I 2, and one of the Lords Regent, under the Duke of Albany, during the stormy minority of James V. Pitscottie distinctlyrefers to it as the xrchbishop’s house, ‘‘ quhilk he biggit in the Freiris Wynd,” and Keith records that over the door of it were the arms of the family of Bethune, to be seen in his time. But they had disappeared long before the demolition of the house, the ancient risp of which was sold among the collection of the late C. Kirkpatrick Sharpe, in 1851. Another from the same house is in the museum of the Scottish Antiquaries The stone bearing the coat of arms was also in his possession, and it is thus referred to by &bet in ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street other services, Charles Philip Count d’artois, brother of the ill-fated ...

Vol. 2  p. 262 (Rel. 0.28)

and ‘married Henry Stuart Lord Methven, on finding that the former was about to seize her dower-lands, fled, with her third husband and all his vassals, to the Castle of Edinburgh, and, joining her son, prepared to resist to the last; but Earl Archibald only laughed when he heard of it ; and, displaying his banner, invested the fortress at the head of his own vassals and those of the Crown. Margaret found that she dared not disobey, and her soldiers capitulated. Bathed in tears, on her knees, at the outer gate, quailing under the grim eye of one who was so recently her husband, at his command she placed the keys ‘‘ in the hands of her son, then a tall and handsome yodth, imploring pardon for &er husband, for his brother Sir James Stuart, and lastly for herself. Angus smiled scornfully beneath his barred helmet at her constrained submission, and haughtily directed the Lord Methven and others to be imprisoned in the towers from which they had so lately defied him.” In 1528, James, at last, by a midnight flight with only two attendants, escaped the Douglas thrall, and fled to Falkland Palace, after which event, with a decision beyond his years, he proceeded to assert his own authority, and summoned the estates to meet him at Stirling. The Douglases were declared outlaws and traitors, whereupon Angus and all the barons of his name fled to England. On the death of James V., in 1542, the Regent Arran thoroughly repaired the Castle, and appointed governor Sir James Hamilton of Stanehouse, a gallant soldier, who proved worthy of the trust reposed in him when, in 1544, Henry VIII., exasperated at the Scots for declining to fulfil a treaty, made by an English faction, affiancing the young Queen Mary to his only son Edward, sent the Earl of Hertford with an army, and zoo sail under Dudley Lord PIsle to the Forth, with orders, so characteristic of a ferociouk despot, “ to put all to fire and sword ; to burn Edinburgh, raze, deface, and sack it ; to beat down and overthrow the Castle ; to sack Holyrood and as many towns and villages as he could; to sack Leith, burn, and subvert it, and all the rest ; putting man, woman, and child, to fire and sword, without exception.”* Hertford suddenly landed with 10,000 men near an old fortalice, called the Castle of Wardie, on the beach that bordered a desolate moor of the same name, and seized Leith and Newhaven. Cardinal Beaton and the Regent Arran lay in the vicinity with an army. The former proposed battle, but the latter, an irresolute man, declined, and - Tytla. retired in the night towards Linlithgow with his hastily levied troops. Lord Evers, with 4,000 horse, had now joined the English from Berwick, and Hertford arrogantly demanded the instant surrender of the infant queen ; and being informe4 that the nation would perish to a man rather than submit to terms so ignominious, he advanced against Edinburgh, from whence came the Provost, Sir Adam Otterburn, to make terms, if possible ; but Hertford would have nothing save an unconditional surrender of life and property, together with the little queen, then at Stirling. “ Then,” said the Provost, “ ’twere better that the city should stand on its defence!” He galloped back to put himself at the head of the citizens, who were in arms under the Blue Blanket. The English, after being repulsed with loss at the Leith Wynd Port, entered by the Water Gate, advanced up the Canongate to the Nether Bow Port, which they blew open by dint of artillery, and a terrible slaughter of the citizens ensued. All resisted manfully. Among others was one named David Halkerston of Halkerston, who defended the wynd that for ‘300 years bore his name, and perished there sword in hand. Spreading through the city like a flood, the English fired it in eight places, and as the High Street was then encumbered with heavy fronts of ornamented timber that erst had grown in the forest of Drumsheugh, the smoke of the blazing mansions actually drove the invaders out to ravage the adjacent country, prior to which they met with a terrible repulse in an attempt to attack the Castle. Four days Hertford toiled before it, till he had 500 men killed, an incredible number wounded, and some of his guns dismounted by the fire of the garrison. Led by Stanehouse, the Scots made a sortie, scoured the Castle hill, and carried off Hertford’s guns, among which were some that they had lost at Flodden. The English then retreated, leaving Edinburgh nearly one mass of blackened ruin, and the whole country burned and wasted for seven miles around it When, three years after, the same unscrupulous leader, as Duke of Somerset, won that disastrous battle at Pinkie-a field that made 360 women of Edinburgh widows, and where the united shout raised by the victors as they came storming over Edrnondston Edge was long remembered-stanehouse was again summoned to surrender; but though menaced by 26,000 of the English, he maintained his charge till the retreat of Somerset Instead of reconciling the Scots to an alliance with England-in those days a measure alike unsafe and unpalatable-all this strengthened the ... ‘married Henry Stuart Lord Methven, on finding that the former was about to seize her dower-lands, fled, ...

Vol. 1  p. 43 (Rel. 0.28)

34 OJ,D AND NEW EDINBURGH. -. - by a clause in one of the Acts of the North British Railway; and since 1847 it has fortunately become the property of the Free Church of Scotland, by whom it is now used as a training college or nor. mal school, managed by a rector and very efficient staff, On the Same side, but to the eastward, is Milton House, a large and handsome mansion, though heavy and sombre in style, built in what had been originally the garden of Lord Roxburghe’s house, or a portion thereof, during the eighteenth century, by Andrew Fletcher of Milton, raised to the bench in 1724 in succession to the famous Lord Fountainhall, and who remained a senator of the Court of Session till his death. He was the nephew of the noble and patriotic Fletcher of Salton, and was an able coadjutor with his friend Archibald the great Duke of Argyle, during whose administration he exercised a wise control over the usually-abused Government patronage in Scotland. He sternly discouraged all informers, and was greatly esteemed for the mild and gentle manner in which he used his authority when Lord Justice Clerk after the battle of Culloden. From the drawing-room windows on the south a spacious garden extended to the back of the Canongate, and beyond could be seen the hill of St. Leonard and the stupendous craigs. Its walls are still decorated with designs and landscapes, having rich floral borders painted in distemper, and rich stucco ceilings are among the decorations, and “ interspersed amid the ornamental borders there are various grotesque figures, which have the appearance,” says Wilson, “ of being copies, from an illuminated missal of the fourteenth century. They represent a cardinal, a monk, a priest, and other churchmen, painted with great humour and drollery of attitude and expression. They so entirely differ from the general character of the composition, that their insertion may be conjectured to have originated in a whim of Lord Milton’s, which the artist has contrived to execute without sacrificing the harmony of his .design.” Lord Milton was the guardian of the family of Susannah Countess of Eglinton for many years, and took a warm and fatherly interest in her beautiful girls after the death of the earl in 1729 ; and the terms of affectionate intimacy in which he stood with them are amusingly shown in “ The petition of the six vestal virgins of Eglinton,” signed by them all, and addressed “ To the Honourable Lord Milton, at his lodgings, Edinburgh,” in I 735-a curious and witty production, .printed in the “Eglinton Memorials.” Lord Milton died at his house of Brunstane, [Canangate. - near Musselburgh, on the 13th of December, 1766, aged seventy-four. Four years after that event the Scots Magazine for 1770 gives us a curious account of a remarkable mendicant that had long haunted his gates:--“ Edinburgh, Sept. 29th. A gentleman, struck with the uncommon good appearance of an elderly man who generally sits bareheaded under a dead wall in the Canongate, opposite to Lord Milton’s house, requesting alms of those who pass, had the curiosity to inquire into his history, and learned the following melancholy account of him. He is an attainted baronet, named Sif John Mitchell of Pitreavie, and had formerly a very affluent estate, . In the early part of his life he was a captain in the Scots Greys, but was broke for sending a challenge to the Duke of Marlborough, in consequence of some illiberal reflections thrown out by his Grace against the Scottish nation. Queen Anne took so personal a part in his prosecution that he was condemned to transportation for the offence ; and this part of his sentence was, with difficulty, remitted at the particular instance of John Duke of Argyle. Exposed, in the hundredth year of his age, to the inclemencies of the weather, it is hoped the humane and charitable of this city will attend to his distresses, and relieve him from a situation which appears too severe a punishment for what, at worst, can be termed his spirited imprudence. A subscription for his annual support is opened at Balfoufs coffee-house, where those who are disposed to contribute towards it will receive every satisfaction concerning the disposal of their charity and the truth of the foregoing relation.” The aged mendicant referred to may have been a knight, but the name of Mitchell is not to be found in the old list of Scottish baronets, and Pitreavie, belonged to the Wadlaws. In later years Milton House was occupied as a Catholic school, under the care of the Sisters of Charity, who, with their pupils, attracted considerable attention in 1842, on the occasion of the first visit of Queen Victoria to Holyrood, from whence they strewed flowers before her up the ancient street. It was next a school for deaf and dumb, anon 5 temporary maternity hospital, and then the property of an engineering firm. Where Whiteford House stands now, in Edgar’s map €or 1765 there are shown two blocks of buildings (with a narrow passage between, and a Zarden 150 feet long) marked, “Ruins of the Earl Df Winton’s house,” a stately edifice, which, no loubt, had fallen into a state of dilapidation from its extreme antiquity and abandonment after the attainder of George, fourth Earl of Winton, who was taken prisoner in the fight at Preston in 1715, ’ ... OJ,D AND NEW EDINBURGH. -. - by a clause in one of the Acts of the North British Railway; and since 1847 it ...

Vol. 3  p. 34 (Rel. 0.28)

Bomington] THE LAIRDS OF PILRIG. 91 His History of the Church and State of Scotland,” though coloured by High Church prejudices, is deemed a useful narration and very candid record of the most controverted part of our national annals, while the State documents used in its compilation have proved of the greatest value to every subsequent writer on the same subject. Very curious is the list of subscribers, as being, says Chambers, a complete muster-roll of the whole Jacobite nobility and gentry of the period, including among others the famous Rob Roy, the outlaw ! The bishop performed the marriage ceremony of that ill-starred pair, Sir George Stewart of Grandtully and Lady Jane Douglas, on the 4th of August, I 746. In I 7 5 5 he published his well-known “ Catalogue of Scottish Bishops,” a mine of valuable knowledge to future writers. The latter years of his useful and blameless life, during which he was in frequent correspondence with the gallant Marshal Keith, were all spent at the secluded villa of Bonnyhaugh, which belonged to himself. There he died on the 27th of January, 1757, in his seventy-sixth year, and was borne, amid the tears of the Episcopai communion, to his last home in the Canongate churchyard. There he lies, a few feet from the western wall, where a plain stone bearing his name was only erected recently. In 1766 Alexander Le Grand was entailed in the lands and estates of Bonnington. In 1796 the bridge of Bonnington, which was of timber, having been swept away by a flood, a boat was substituted till 1798, when another wooden bridge was erected at the expense of A30. Here in Breadalbane Street, northward of some steam mills and iron-works, stands the Bonnington Sugar-refining Company’s premises, formed by a few merchants of Edinburgh andLeith about 1865, where they carry on an extensive and thriving business. The property and manor house of Stewartfield in this quarter, is westward of Bonnington, a square edifice with one enormous chimney rising through a pavilion-shaped roof. We have referred to the entail of Alexander Le Grand, of Bonnington, in 1766. The Scots Magazine for 1770 records an alliance between the two proprietors here thus :-“At Edinburgh, Richard Le Grand, Esq., of Bonnington (son of the preceding?), to Miss May Stewart, daughter of James Stewart of Stewartfield, Esq.” On the north side of the Bonnington Road, and not far from Bonnington House, stands that of Pilrig, an old rough-cast and gable-ended mansion among aged trees, that no doubt occupies the site of a much older edifice, probably a fortalice. In 1584 Henry Nisbett, burgess of Edinburgh, became caution before the Lords of the Privy Council, for Patrick Monypenny of Pilrig, John Kincaid of Warriston, Clement Kincaid of the Coates, Stephen Kincaid, John Matheson, and James Crawford, feuars of a part of the Barony of Broughton, that they shall pay to Adam Bishop of Orkney, commendator of Holyrood House, “what they ow-e him for his relief of the last taxation of _f;zo,ooo, over and above the sum of €15, already consigned in the hands of the col- Lector of the said collection.” In 1601 we find the same Laird of Pilrig engaged in a brawl, “forming a specimen of the second class of outrages.” He (Patrick Monypenny) stated to the Lords of Council that he had a wish to let a part of his lands of Pilrig, called the Round Haugh, to Harry Robertson and Andrew Alis, for his own utility and profit. But on a certain day, not satisfied, David UuA; a doughty indweller in Leith, came to these per‘sons, and uttering ferocious menaces against them in the event of their occupying these lands, effectually prevented them from doing so. Duff next, accompanied by two men named Matheson, on the 2nd of March, 1601, attacked the servants of the Laird of Pilrig, as they were at labour on the lands in question, with similar speeches, threatening them with death if they persisted in working there; and in the night they, or other persons instigated by them, had come and broken their plough, and cast it into the Water of Leith. “John Matheson,” continues the indictment, ‘‘ after breaking the complenar‘s plew, came to John Porteous’s house, and bade him gang now betwix the Flew stilts and see how she wald go till the morning:’ adding that he would have his head broken if he ever divulged who had broken the plough, The furious Duff, not contentwith all this,trampled and destroyed the tilled land. In this case the accused were dismissed from the bar, but only, it would appear, through hard swearing in their own cause. There died at Pilrig, according to the Scots Magazine for 1767, Margaret, daughter of the late Sir Johnstone Elphinstone of Logie, in the month of January ; and in the subsequent June, Lady Elphinstone, his widow. The Elphinstones of Logie were baronets of 1701. These ladies were probably visitors, as the then proprietor and occupant of the mansion was James Balfour of Pilng, who was born in 1703, and became a member of the Faculty of Advocates on the 14th of November, 1730, Three years later on the death of Mr. Bayne, Professor of Scottish Law in the University of Edinburgh, he and Mr. ... THE LAIRDS OF PILRIG. 91 His History of the Church and State of Scotland,” though coloured by High ...

Vol. 5  p. 91 (Rel. 0.28)

High Street.] CARRUBBER’S CLOSE. 239 the name of “ the Hanoverian usurpers ” from all their devotions. But the humble chapels with which these old Scottish Episcopalians contented themselves in Carrubber‘s Close, Skinner’s Close, and elsewhere, present a wonderful contrast’ to their St. Paul’s and St. Mary’s in the Edinburgh of to-day. In this close was the house of Robert Ainslie’s master, during Burns’s visit to Edinburgh, Mr. Samuel Mitchelson, a great musical amateur ; and here it was that occurred the famous “Haggis Scene,”described by Smollett in “Humphrey Clinker.” At the table of Mitchelson the poet was a frequent guest, while on another floor of the old Clam Shell Land, as it was named, dwelt another friend of Burns’s, the elder Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo, prior to his removal to the New Town. On the second floor of an ancient stone land at the head .of the close dwelt Captain Matthew Henderson, a well-known antiquary, a gentleman of agreeable and dignified manners, who was a hero of Minden, and .a member of the Crochallan Club, and dined constactly at Fortune’s tavern. He died in 1789, and Bums wrote a powerful elegy on him as “ a gentleman who held the patent for his honours immediately from Almighty God.” “ I loved the man much, and have not flattered his memory,” said Burns in a note to the elegy, which contains sixteen verses. The old captain was one whom all men liked. “ In our travelling party,” says Sir James Campbell of Ardkinglas in his (suppressed) Memoirs, “ was Matthew Henderson, then (I 759) and afterwards well known and much esteemed in the town of Edinburgh, at that time an officer in the 25th Regiment of Foot, and, like myself, on his way to join the army; and I may say with truth, that in the course of a long life I have never known a more estimable character than Matthew Henderson.” This close was the scene of the unsuccessful speculation of another poet, for here Allan Ramsay made a bold attempt to establish his theatre, which was roughly closed by the magistrates in 1737, after it had been barely opened, for which he took a poet’s vengeance in rhyme in the GenlZmn’s Magazine. The edifice, which stood at the foot of the close, was quizzically named st. Andrew’s Chapel, and in 1773 was the arena for the debates of a famous speculative club named the Pantheon. Five years subsequently Hind Dr. Moyes, the clever lecturer on natural philosophy, held forth therein to audiences both fashionable and select, on optics, the property’of light, and so forth. It was afterwards occupied by Mr. John Barclay, founder of the Bereans, whose chief tenet was, that the knowledge of the existence of God is derived from revelation and not from Scripture. From him and his followers Ramsay’s luckless theatre passed to the Rev. Mr. Tait and other founders of the Rowites, during whose occupancy the pulpit was frequently filled by the celebrated Edward Irving. The Relief and Secession congregations have also had it in succession; the Catholics have used it as a schoolroom ; and till its demolition to make way for Jeffrey Street, it has been the arena of a strange oZZapodda of per sonages and purposes. In Carrubber’s Close stood the ancient Tailor‘s Hall, the meeting-place of a corporation whose charter, granted to them by the Town Council, is dated 20th October, 1531, and with their original one, was further confirmed by charters from James V. and JamesVI. Theyhad analtar in St. Giles’sChurch dedicated to their patron St. Ann, and the date of their seal of cause is 1500. They had also an altar dedicated to St. Ann in the Abbey church, erected in 1554 by permission of Robert Commendator of Holyrood. The fine old hall in the Cowgate has long since been abandoned by the Corporation, which still exists; and in their other place of meeting in Carrubber’s Close an autograph letter of King James VI., which hung framed and glazed over the old fireplace, was long one of its chief features. It was dated in 1594, and ran thus; but afew lines will suffice for a specimen :- “Dekin and remanent Maisters and Brethren of the Tailyer Craft within oure burgh of Edinburgh, we g e t zow weilL “Forsaemeikle as, respecting the gude service of AZexander MilZer, in making and working the abulzements of our awn person, minding to continue him in oure service, as ain maist fit and meit persone. We laitlie recommendit him into zow be oure letter of requiest, desiring you to receive and admit him gratis to the libertie and fredom of the said craft, as a thing maist requisite for him, having the a i r of our awin wark, notwithstanding that he was not prenteis amongk zow, according to your ancient liberties and priviliges had in the contraie. M‘illing zow at this our requiest to dispense him thereanent, &c, JAMES R.” The king‘s request was no doubt granted, and the Alexander Miller to whom it referred died in 1616, a reputable burgess, whose tomb in the Greyfriars’ churchyard was inscribed thus by his heirs :- “AZexundro Milka, Jorobi Mug. Brit. FY&, &c., Regis Sarion; adfiltrni vifre, frinrario, hmedes. F. C. *it annb 57, obiit Principis et Civium iauta decoratus, Anno 1616. Maii 2.’’ ... Street.] CARRUBBER’S CLOSE. 239 the name of “ the Hanoverian usurpers ” from all their devotions. But ...

Vol. 2  p. 239 (Rel. 0.28)

Arthur’s Seat.1 ST. ANTHONY’S CHAPEL. 319 farmers, who are maintained in it for six years; “whom failing, the sons of respectable master pnnters or booksellers, and the sons of respectable servants in the agricultural line,” and who, when admitted, must be of the age of six, and not more than eight, years. They are taught the ordinary branches of education, and Latin, Greek, French, German, and mathematics. The management of this institution is in the survivor of certain individuals nominated by the founder, and in certain e.T-o@cib trustees, viz., the Lord Provost, the Principal of the University, the Rector of the High School, the Ministers of Duddingston, Liberton, Newton, the Laird of Niddrie, and the factor of the Duke of Abercorn. On the north-east side of Arthur‘s Seat, overhoked by those portions of it known as the Whinny Hill and Sampson’s Grave, is the Mansion House of Parson’s Green, which was terribly shaken by three distinct shocks of an earthquake on the 30th September, 1789, that caused a dinner party there to fly from the table, while the servants also fled frm the kitchen. Here the hand of change has been at work, and though the mansion house and much of its surrounding timber have been retained, streets have been run along the slope and close to Piershill Tollbar, and westward of these was the great dairy, long known as the Cow palace, and the temporary railway station for the use of the royal family. Above the curious little knoll, named the Fairies’ or Haggis Knowe, on a plateau of rock overlooking St. Margaret’s artificial loch, on the northern slope of Arthur’s Seat, we find the ruined chapel and hermitage of St. Anthony-a familiar feature in the landscape. The former, which terminated in a square tower, with two gables at its summit-as shown in the view of the city in 15444s 36 feet long by 12 inside the walls, and was roofed by three sets of groined arches that sprang from corbels. It had two entrance doors, one on the south and one on the north, where the hole yet remains for the bar that secured it. Near it was the elegantly-sculptured font A press, grooved for shelves, yet remains in the north-east corner; and a stair ascended to the tower, which rose on groins about forty feet high. Nine yards south-east is the ruin of the hermitage, partly formed of the rock, irregular in shape, but about I 7 feet by I z in measurement. The hermit who abode here must, in the days when it was built, have ied a lonely life indeed, though beneath him lay a wealthy abbey and a royal palace, from whence a busy city,gkt by embattled walls, coveredall theslope to the castled rock. More distant, he could see on one side the cheerful fields and woods that spread away towards the Firth of Forth, but elsewhere only the black basaltic rocks ; and, as a writer has excellentlyexpressedit, he had butto step a few pacesfrom the brow of the rock on which his cell and chapel stood to immure himself in such a grim mountain solitude as Salvator Rosa might have thought an appropriate scene forthe temptationsof that saint of the desert to whom the chapel was dedicated. Kincaid says that a handsome stone seat projected from the outside of the wall at the east end, and the whole appeared to have been enclosed by a stone wall. So simple is the architecture of the edifice that it is difficult to assign any precise date for it. There remains not a single vestige of record to say when, or by whom, it was erected or endowed, though it stands in the centre of a tract that for ages has been a royai park. No reference to it occurs in the muniments of the Abbey of Holyrood, nor is there any evidence-though it has often been asserted-that it was a chaplaincy or pendicle of the Knights Hospitallers of St. Anthony in Leith. Yet it is extremely probable that it was in some wzy connected with them. Tradition says it was merely founded for the guardianship of the holy well in its vicinity, and that it was a spot for watching vessels, the impost on which formed part of the revenues of the adjacent abbey, and also that a light was hung in the tower to guide mariners in the Birth at night, that, as Grose says in his “Antiquities,” they might be induced to make vows to its titular saint. At the foot of the rock there still bubbles up the little spring named St. Anthony’s Well, which flows pleasantly down through the rich grass of the valley. Originally the spring flowed from under the little stone arch, but about the year 1674 it dried up, and after a time broke out lower down, where we now find it. The well is referred to in the old song which begins “ 0 waly, waly !” the Scottish exclamatior, for “ Alas ! ” In Robert Chambers’s “Scottish Songs” there is anote upon it, from which we may give the following passage :- “This beautiful old song has hitherto been sup posed to refer to some circumstance in the life of Queen Mary, or at least to some unfortuna:e love affair which happened at her Court. It is now discovered, from a copy which has been found as forming part of a ballad in the Pepysian Library at Cambridge (published in Motherwell’s ‘ Minstrelsy,’ 1827, under the title of ‘Lord Jamie Douglas’), to have been occasioned by the affecting tale of Lady Barbara Erskine, daughter of John (sixteenth Lord Erskine), ninth Earl of Mar, and wife of James II., ... Seat.1 ST. ANTHONY’S CHAPEL. 319 farmers, who are maintained in it for six years; “whom failing, ...

Vol. 4  p. 319 (Rel. 0.28)

250 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate. CHAPTER XXXII. C0WGATE The South Side of the Street--The High School Wynd-“ Claudero”-Robertson’s Close-House of the Bishops of Dnnkeld-Tomb of Gavin Douglas-Kuk-of-Field and College Wynd-House of the Earls of Queensberq-Robcrt Monteith-Oliver Goldsmith-Dr. Joseph Black -House in which Sir Walter Swtt was born-St. Petu‘s Pad-House of Andro Symmi, the Printer, 1@7-The Horse Wynd- Galloway House-Guthrie Stract-Tailors’ Hall-French Ambassador’s Chapel and John Dickison’s House-Tam 0’ the Cowgate and Jam- VI.-The Hammermen’s Land and Hall-Magdalenc Chapel-John Craig-A Glance at the Ancient Corporations-The Hammumen- Their Charter--Seal and Pmgress-The Cardin-First Strike in the Trade-Skinners and Furriers-Websters-Hat and Bonnetm a L e r s - F l e s h e r s - C w ~ o p e r s T a i l o r s C o n d k - m n L . PROCEEDING westward from the point we have left, the mutilated range of buildings on the south side, between George Heriot’s School (the site of the old Cowgate Port) and the foot of what was the High School Wynd, show fragments of what were, in their day, exceedingly picturesque old timber-fronted tenements, of a very early date, but which were far inferior in magnificence to the Mint which stood opposite to them This Wynd was originally a narrow and rather lonely road or path, that led towards the Dominican monastery, and westward to the house of the Kirk-of-Field. A finely-carved lintel, which surmounted the doorway of an antique range of tenements, is described by Wilson, as having been replaced over the entrance of a modem building erected on the same site in 1801. The inscription, he shows, cut in very unusual character, having in the centre a shield charged with a barrel, the device of its more recent occupant, a brewer, substituted for the armorial bearings of his predecessors :- AL. MY. TRIST . I - S. IN. YE. LORD. ‘‘ We have found,” he adds, U on examining ancient charters and title-deeds refemng to property in the Cowgate, much greater difficulty in assigning the exact tenements referred to, from the absence of such marked and easily recognisable features as serve for a guide in the High Street and Canongate. All such evidence, however, tends to prove that the chief occupants of this ancient thoroughfare were eminent for rank and station, and their dwellings appear to have been chiefly in the front street, showing that, with patrician exclusiveness, traders were forbid to open their booths within its dignified precincts.” Latterly the High School Wynd was chiefly remarkable for the residence, in an old tenement at its foot, of an obscure local poet, whose real name was Tames Wilson, but whose num de plume was Claudero,” and who by his poetic effusions upon local subjects continued to eke out a precarious subsistence, frequently by furnishing sharp lampoons on his less gifted fellow-citizens. He latterly added to his income by keeping a little school, and by performing (‘ AaCf-merk marriages, an occupation which, no doubt, afforded him additional satisfaction, as he was thereby taking their legitimate duties out of the hands of his old enemies the clergy,” for Claudero, who was a cripple, is said to have been rendered so, in youth, by a merciless beating he received from “ the pastoral staff ” of the minister of his native parish, Cumbernauld, in Dumbartonshire. A satirist by profession, Claudero made himself a source of terror by his pungent wit, for in the Edinburgh of the eighteenth century there lived a number of wealthy old men who had realised large fortunes in questionable manners abroad, and whose characters, as they laboured under strange suspicions of the slave trade-even buccaneering perhaps-“ were wonderfully suscep tible of Claudero’s satire ; and these, the wag,” we are told, “ used to bleed profusely and frequently, by working upon their fears of public notice.” In 1766 appeared his “Miscellanies in Prose and Verse, by Claudero, son of Nimrod the mighty Hunter,” dedicated to the renowned Peter Williamson, “from the other world.” In this volume are “The Echo of the Royal Porch of Holyrood,” demolished in 1753 ; “The last Speech and Dying Words of the Cross,I) executed, &c., “for the horrid crime of being an encumbrance to the street ;” “ Scotland’s Tears over the Horrid Treatment of her Kings’ Sepulchres ; ” “ A Sermon on the Condemnation of the Netherbow ; ” and other kindred subjects. With all his eccentricity, Claudero seems to have felt genuine disgust at the wanton destruction of many beautiful and historical edifices and monuments in Edinburgh, under the reckless fiat of a magistracy of the most tasteless age in British history-the epoch of George 111. In the year 1755 he was wandering about London, but returned to Edinburgh, where he lived for thirty years consecutively, and died in The wynd led straight up the slope to the old High School, which with its tower and spire stood on the east side of it Robertson’s Close adjoined it on the west-in 1647, a long and straight street, with lofty houses on both sides, and spacious 1789- ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate. CHAPTER XXXII. C0WGATE The South Side of the Street--The High School ...

Vol. 4  p. 250 (Rel. 0.28)

High Street.] HOUSE OF THE ABBOTS OF MELROSE. 253 CHAPTER XXX. THE HIGH STREET (caitfirzued). Dickson’s and Cant’s Closes-The House of the “ Scottish Hogarth ” and the Knight of Tillybole-Rosehaugh’s, or Strichen’s, Close-House 01 the Abbots of Melrose-Sir Georye Yaclteuzie of Rosehaugh-Lady h n e Dick-Lord Strichen-The hlanncls of 1730-Pmvost Grieve- John Dhu, Corporal of the City Guard-Lady Lovat’s Land-Walter Chnpman, Printer-Lady Lovat. DICKSON’S CLOSE, numbered as 118, below the modern Niddry Street, gave access to a handsome and substantial edifice, supposed to be the work of that excellent artificer Robert Mylne, who built the modern portion of Holyrood and s3 rnacy houses of an improved character in the city about the time of the Revolution. Its earlier occupants are unknown, but herein dwelt David Allan, known as the “ Scottish Hogarth,” a historical painter of undoubted genius, who, on the death of hlexander Runciman, in 1786, was appointed director and master of the academy established by the board of trustees for manufacturers in Scotland. While resident in Dickson’s Close he published, in 1788, an edition of the “Gentle Shepherd,” with characteristic etchings, and, some time after, a collection of the most humorous old Scottish songs with similar drawings ; these, with his illustrations of “ The Cottar’s Saturday Night ” and the satire, humour, and spirit of his other etchings in aquatinta, won him a high reputation as a successful delineator of character and nature. His drawing classes met in the old college, but he received private pupils at his house in Dickson’s Close after his marriage, on the 15th November, 1788. His terms were, as advertised in the Nucz~ry, one guinea per month for three lessons in the week, which in those simple days would restrict his pupils to the wealthy and fashionable class of sqciety. He died at Edinburgh on the 6th of August, 1796. Lower down the close, on the same side, a quaint old tenement, doomed to destruction by the Improvements Act, 1867, showed on the coved bedcorbel of its crowstepped gable the arms of Haliburton, impaled with another coat armorial, with the peculiar feature of a double window corbelled out ; and in a deed extant, dated 1582, its first proprietor is named Master James Haliburton. Afterwards it was the residence of Sir John Haliday, of Tillybole, and formed a part of Cant’s Close. Its appearance in 1868 has been preserved to us by R. Chambers, in a brief description in his ‘‘ Traditions . ” According to this authority: it was two storeys in height, the second storey being reached by an outside stair, within a small courtyard, which had originally been shut by a gate. The stone pillars of the gateway were decorated with balls at the top, after the fashion of entrances to the grounds of a country mansion. It was a picturesque building in the style of the sixteenth century in Scotland. As it resembled a neat oldfashioned country house, it was odd to find it jammed up amid the tall edifices of this confined alley. Ascending the stair, the interior consisted of three or four apartments, with elaborately-carved stucco ceilings. The principal room had a double window on the west to Dickson’s Close. In 1735 this mansion was the abode of Robert Geddes, Gird of Scotstoun in Peeblesshire, who sold it to George Wight, a burgess of Edinburgh, after which it became deteriorated, and its stuccoed apartments, froin the attics to the ground floor, became each the dwelling of a separate family, and a scene of squalor and wretchedness. A considerable portion of the edifices in Cant’s Close mere once ecclesiastical, and belonged to the prebendaries of the collegiate church, founded at Ciichton in 1449, by Sir William Crichton of that ilk, Lord High Chancellor of Scotland. In Kosehaugh’s Close, now called Strichen’s, the next alley on the east, was the town-house of the princely mitred abbots of Melrose. In Catholic times the great dignitaries of the church had all their houses in Edinburgh ; the Archbishop of St. dndrews resided at the foot of Blackfriars Wynd ; the Bishop of Dunkeld in the Cowgate ; the Abbot of Dunfermline at the Netherbow ; the Abbot of Cambuskenneth in the Lawnmarket ; and the Abbot of Melrose in the close we have named, and his “ludging” had a garden which extend’ed down to the Cowgate, and up the opposite slope on the west side of the Pleasance, within the city wall. The house of the abbot, a large and massive building enclosing a small square or court in the centre of it, was entered from Strichen’s Close. ‘‘ The whole building has evidently undergone great alterations,’’ says the description of it written in 1847; “a carved stone bears a large and very boldlycut shield, with two coats of arms impaled, and the date 1600. There seems no reason to doubt, however, that the main portion of the abbot’s residence still remains. The lower storey is strongly vaulted, and is evidently the work of an early date. The smalrquadrangle also is quite in character with the period assumed for the building; and at its north-west angle is Cant’s Close, ... Street.] HOUSE OF THE ABBOTS OF MELROSE. 253 CHAPTER XXX. THE HIGH STREET (caitfirzued). Dickson’s and ...

Vol. 2  p. 253 (Rel. 0.28)

hills of Braid to the sandy shores of the Firth of Forth. Edinburgh, now within a few hours’ journey from London, was long the capital of a land that was almost a ferra incogniia, not only to England, but to the greater part of Europe, and remained so till nearly the era of the Scott novels. Spreading over many swelling hills and deep ravines, that in some instances are spanned by enormous bridges of stone, it exhibits a striking peculiarity and boldness in its features that render it totally unlike any other city in the world, unless we admit its supposed resemblance to Athens. Its lofty and commanding site ascends gradually from the shore of the great estuary, till it terminates in the stupendous rock of the Castle, 500 feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded on the southward, east, and west, by an amphitheatre of beautiful hills, covered either with purple heath or the richest copse-wood; while almost from amid its very streets there starts up the lionshaped mountain named Arthur’s Seat, the bare and rocky cone of which has an altitude of 822 feet. In Edinburgh every step is historical; the memories of a remote and romantic past confront us at every turn and corner, and on every side .arise the shades of the dead. Most marked, indeed, is the difference between the old and the new city-the former being sa strikingly picturesque in its broken masses and the disorder of its architecture, and the latter so symmetrical and almost severe in the Grecian and Tuscan beauty of its streets and squares ; and this perhaps, combined with its natural situation quite as much as its literary character, may have won for it the fanciful name of “ the Modem Athens.” On one hand we have, almost unchanged in general aspect, yet changing in detail at the xuthless demands of improvement, the Edinburgh of the Middle Ages-“the Queen of the North upon her hilly throne”-the city of the Pavids and of five gallant Jameses-her massive mansions of stone, weather-beaten, old, dark, and time-worn, teeming with historical recollections oi many generations of men ; many painful and man) pitiful memories, some of woe, but more of wai and wanton cruelty; of fierce combats and feudal battles ; of rancorous quarrels and foreign invasions, and of loyal and noble hearts that were wasted and often broken in their passionate faith to religion and a regal race that is now no more. On the bther hand, and all unlike the warrioi city of the middle ages, beyond the deep ravint overlooked by Princes Street-that most beautifu of European terraces-and by that noble pinnaclec xoss which seems the very shrine of Scott, we iave the modern Edinburgh of the days of peace ind prosperity, with all its spacious squares and ir-stretching streets, adorned by the statues of those great men who but lately trod them. And 50 the Past and the Present stand face to face, by.the valley where of old the waters of the North Loch lay. Ih these pages, accordingly, we intend to summon back, like the dissolving views in the magic mirror of Cornelius Agrippa, the Edinburgh of the past, with all the stirring, brilliant, and terrible events of which it has been the arena. The ghosts of kings and queens, of knights and nobles, shall walk its old streets again, and the brave, or sad, or startling, story of every time-worn tenement will be told ; nor shall those buildings that have passed away be forgotten. Again the beacon fires shall seem to blaze on the grassy summits of Soltra and Dunpender, announcing that southern hosts have crossed the Tweed, and summoning the sturdy burgesses, from every echoing close and wynd, in all the array of war, to man their gates and walls, as all were bound, under pain of death, to do when the Deacon Convener of the Trades unfurled “the Blue Blanket ” of famous memory. In the ancient High Street we shall meet King David riding forth with hound and horn to hunt in his forest of Drumsheugh, as he did on that Roodday in harvest when he had the alleged wondrous escape which led to the founding of Holyrood ; or we may see him seated at the Castle gdte, dispensing justice to his people-especially to the poor -in that simple fashion which won for him the proud title of the Scottish Justinian. In the same street we shall see the mail-clad Douglases and Hamiltons carrying out their mortal feud with horse and spear, axe and sword ; and anon meet him “who never feared the face of man,” John Knox, grown old and tottering, whitebearded and wan, leaning on the arm of sweet young Margaret Stewart of Ochiltree, as he proceeds to preach for the last time in St. Giles’s; and we shall also see the sorrowing group that gathered around his grave in the old churchyard that lay thereby, and where still that grave is marked by bronzes let into the pavement. Again the trumpets that breathed war and defiance shall ring at the Market Cross, and we may hear the mysterious voice that at midnight called aloud the death-roll of those who were doomed to fall on Flodden field,. and the wail of‘woe that went through the startled city when tidings of the fatal battle ca’me. We shall see the countless windows of those ... of Braid to the sandy shores of the Firth of Forth. Edinburgh, now within a few hours’ journey ...

Vol. 1  p. 2 (Rel. 0.28)

he barbarously threw the bodies on a great fire that blazed in the fireplace of the tower; “and there in their armour they broiled and sweltered like tortoises in iron shells.” Locking the doors, the fugitives hurriedly and stealthily reached the tower-head unseen. The attendant lowered himself down first over the abutting crag, which there is more than zoo feet in height, but the cord proving too short it slipped from his hands, and he fell to the bottom senseless. This must have been a terrible crisis for the blood-stained Albany ! Hurrying back to his now horrible apartment in the tower, he dragged the sheets from his bed, added them to the rope, looped it round an embrasure, and lowered himself safely down over rampart and rock to the bottom, where he found his attendant lying helpless, with a broken thigh Unwilling to leave him to ptrish, Albany, with a sentiment that contrasts singularly with his recent ferocity, raised him on his shoulders, and being a man of unusual strength and Stature, he actually conveyed him to Leith, a distance of two miles; and, when the sun rose, the ship, with Albany, was out on the German sea. Daylight revealed the rope and twisted sheets hanging over the rampart of the tower. An alarm was given, which the dreadful stench from the locked chamber must have increased. The door was opened. Albany was gone, but the half-con- Qumed corpses were found in the fireplace; and James 111. refused to believe in a story so incredible till he had visited the place in person.* Albany fled to England, the king of which refused to deliver him up. Thus war was declared, and James marched from the Burghmuir with $0,000 men and a train of guns, under the master of the ordndnce, a stone-mason, whom, with great impolicy, he had created Earl of Mar. At Lauder the nobles halted; hanged all the king’s minions over the bridge in horse-halters, and disbanded the troops j and then the humbled and luckless James returned to the Castle, where for many months, in 1481, he remained a species of prisoner in the custody of its commanders, the Earls of Athol and Buchan, who,’ it has been supposed, would have murdered him in secret had not the Lord Darnley and other loyal barons protected him, by never leaving his chamber unguarded by night or day. There he remained in a species of honourable durance, while near him lay in 3 dungeon the venerable *Earl of Douglas, who scorned to be reconciled, though James, in his humility, made overtures to him. He appealed at last to Lindesay, Diummond, Scott, Buchan, &c. England for aid against his turbulent barons, and Edward IV. (though they had quarrelled about a matrimonial alliance, and about the restoration of Berwick) sent Richard, Duke of Gloucester; north, at .the head of 10,000 auxiliaries, who encamped on the Burghmuir, where the Duke of Albany, who affected a show of loyalty, joined them, at the very time that the rebellious nobles of lames were sitting in council in the Tolbooth. Thither went Albany and Gloucester, the “ crookbacked Dick” of Shakspere and of Bosworth, attended by a thousand gentlemen of both countries, and the parties having come to terms, heralds were sent to the Castle to charge the commander thereof to open the gates and set the king at liberty; after which the royal brothers, over whose fraternisation Pitscottie’s narrative casts some ridicule, rode together, he adds, to Holyrood, “ quhair they remained ane long time in great merrines.” William Bertraham, Provost of Edinburgh, with the whole community of the city, undertook to repay to the king of England the dowry of his daughter the Lady Cecil, and afterwards they fulfilled their obligations by repaying 6,000 merks to the Garter King-at-Arms. In acknowledgment of this loyal service James granted to the city the patent known as its “Golden Charter,” by which the provost and bailies were created sheriffs of their own boundaries, with other important privileges. Upon the craftsmen he also conferred a banner, said to have been made by the queen and her ladies, still preserved and known popularly as the “ Blue Blanket,” and it was long the rallying point of the Burgher-guard in every war or civic broil. Thus, Jarnes VI., in the “ Basilicon Doron,” points out to Prince Henry-“ The craftsmen think we should be content with their work how bad soever it be ; and if in anything they be controuled, up goes the Blue Blanket ! ” This banner, according to Kincaid, is of blue silk, with a white St. Andrew’s cross. It is swallowtailed, measuring in length from the pole ten feet two inches, and in breadth six and a half feet. It bears a thistle crowned, with the mottoes : “Fear God and honour the King with a long lyffe and a prosperous reigne ; ” and ‘‘ And we that is Trades shall ever pray to be faithful1 for the defence of his sacred Maiesties royal person till Death.” Jarnes 111. was noted about this time for the quantity of treasure, armour, and cannon he had stored up in the Castle, his favourite residence. In David‘s Tower stood his famous black kist (probably the same which is now in the Crown room), filled with rare and costly-gems, gold and silver specie, massive plate, and a wonderful C6!- ... barbarously threw the bodies on a great fire that blazed in the fireplace of the tower; “and there in their ...

Vol. 1  p. 34 (Rel. 0.28)

200 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Etreet. the gentlemen’s mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaid lanes. The walls are eight or ten feet thick, exceeding strong, not built for a day, a week, a month, or a year, but from antiquity to posterity-for many ages. There I found entertainment beyond my expectation or merit; and there is fish, flesh, bread, and fruit in such variety, that I think I may offenceless call it superffuity or satiety.” The “ PennileSs Pilgrim” came to Scotland in a more generous and appreciative mind than his countryman did, 150 years subsequently, and all he saw filled him with wonder, especially the mountains, to which he says : “Shooter‘s Hill, Gad‘s Hill, Highgate Hill, and Hampstead Hill, are but molehills.” Varied indeed have been the scenes witnessed in the High Street of Edinburgh. Among these we may mention a royal banquet and whimsical procession, formed by order of James VI., in 1587. Finding himself unable to subdue the seditious spirit of the ecclesiastics, whom he both feared and detested, he turned his attention to those personal quarrels and deadly feuds which had existed for ages among the nobles and landed.gentry, in the hope to end them. After much thought and preliminary negotiation, he invited the chiefs of all the contending parties to a royal entertainment in Holyrood, where he obtained a promise to bury and forget their feudal dissensions for ever. Thereafter, in the face of all the assembled citizens, he prevailed upon them to walk two by two, hand in hand, to the Market Cross, where a banquet of wines and sweetmeats was prepared for them, and where they all draIzk to each other in token of mutual friendship and future forgiveness. The populace testified their approbation by loud and repeated shouts of joy. “ This reconciliatione of the nobilitie and diverse of the gentry,” says Balfour in his Annales, “ was the gratest worke and happiest game the king had played in all his raigne heithertills ;” but if his good offices did not eradicate the seeds of transmitted hate, they, at leas{ for a time, smothered them. The same annalist records the next banquet at the Cross in 1630. On the birth of a prince, afterwards Charles II., on the 29th of May, the Lord Lyon king-at-arms was dispatched by Charles from London, where he chanced to be, with orders to carry the news to Scotland. He reached Edinburgh on the 1st of June, and the loyal joy of the people burst forth with great effusiveness. The batteries of the Castle thundered forth a royal salute ; bells rang and bonfires blazed, and a table was spread in the High Street that extended half its entire length, from the Cross to the Tron, whereat the nobility, Privy Council, and Judges, sat down to dinner, the heralds in their tabards and the royal trumpeters being in attendance. In that same street, a generation after, was seen, in his old age begging his bread from door to door, John Earl of Traquair, who, in 1635, had beerk Lord High Treasurer of Scotland and High Commissioner to the Parliament and General Assembly, one of the few Scottish nobles who protested against the surrender of King Charles to the English, but who was utterly ruined by Cromwell. A note to Scotstarvit’s “ Scottish Statesmen,” records that “he died in anno 1659, in extreme poverty, on the Lord’s day, and suddenly when taking a pipe of tobacco; and at his funeral had no mortcloth, but a black apron; nor towels, but dog’s leishes belonging to some gentlemen that were present ; and the grave being two foot shorter than his body, the assistants behoved to stay till the same was enlarged, and be buried.” “ I saw him begging in the streets of Edinburgh,” says another witness, James Fraser, minister of Kirkhill; ‘‘ he was in an antique garb, wore a broad old hat, short cloak and panier breeches, and I contributed in my quarters in the Canongate towar s his relief. The Master of Lovat, Culbockie (FraseY), Glenmonston (Grant), and myself were there, and he received the piece of money from my hand as humbly and as thankfully as the poorest supplicant. It is said, that at a time he had not (money) to pay for cobbling his boots, and died in a poor cobbler’s house.” And this luckless earl, so rancorously treated, was the lineal descendant of James Stuart the Black Knight of Lome, and of John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster. Nicoll records in his curious diary that in the October of 1654 a vast number of hares came into the city, penetrating even to its populous and central parts, such as the Parliament Close and the High Street; and in the latter, a few years subsequently, 1662, we read in the Chronicle qf Fie of a famous quack doctor setting up his public stage in the midst of that thoroughfare for the third time. John Pontheus was a German, styling himself professor of music, and his modus operandi affords a curious illustration of the then state of medical science in Great Britain, and of what our forefathers deemed the requisites to a good physician. On the stage mentioned Pontheus had one person to play the fool, another to dance upon a tight rope, in order to gather and amuse rt ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Etreet. the gentlemen’s mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded in ...

Vol. 2  p. 200 (Rel. 0.28)

196 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGR, [High Street. Torthorwald could defend himself, ran him through the body, and slew him on the spot. Stewart fled from the city, and of him we hear no more ; but the Privy Council niet twice to consider what should be done now, for all the Douglases were taking arms to attack the Stewarts of Ochiltree. Hence the Council issued imperative orders that the Earl of Morton, James Commendator of Melrose, Sir George and Sir Archibald Douglas his uncles, William Douglas younger of Drumlanrig, Archibald Uouglas of Tofts, Sir James Dundas of Arniston, and others, who were breathing vengeance, should keep within the doors of their dwellings, orders to the same effect being issued to Lord Ochiltree and all his friends. “ There is a remarkable connection of murders recalled by this shocking transaction,” says a historian. ‘‘ Not only do we ascend to Torthorwald’s slaughter of Stewart in 1596, and Stewart’s deadly prosecution of Morton to the scaffold in 1581 ; but William Stewart was the son of Sir William Stewart who was slain by the Earl of Bothwell in the Blackfriars Wynd in 1588.” A carved marble slab in the church of Holyrood, between two pillars on the north side, still marks the grave of the first lord, who took his title from the lonely tower of Torthonvald on the green brae, between Lockerbie and Dumfries. It marks also the grave of his wife, Elizabeth Carlyle of that ilk, and bears the arms of the house of Douglas, quartered with those of Carlyle and Torthorwald, namely, beneath a ch2f charged with three pellets, a saltire proper, and the crest, a star, with the inscription :- “ Heir lyis ye nobil and poten Lord Jarnes Dovglas, Lord of Cairlell and Torthorall, vlm maned Daime Eliezabeth Cairlell, air and heretrix yalof; vha vas slaine in Edinburghe ye xiiii. day of Ivly, in ye zeier of God 1608-vas slain in 48 ze. The guide daily reads this epitaph to hundreds of visitors ; but few know the series of tragedies of which that slab is the closing record. In the year 1705, Archibald Houston, Writer to the Signet in Edinburgh, was slain in the High Street. As factor for the estate of Braid, the property of his nephew, he had incurred the anger of Kennedy of Auchtyfardel, in Lanarkshire, by failing to pay some portion of Bishop’s rents, and Houston had been “put to the horn” foithis debt. On the 20th March, 1705, Kennedy and his two sons left their residence in the Castle Hill, to go to the usual promenade of the time, the vicinity of the Cross. They met Houston, and used violent language, to : which he was not slow in retorting. Then Gilbert Kennedy, Auchtyfardel’s son, smote him on the L. I. D. E. C.” face, while the idlers flocked around them. Blows with a cane were exchanged, on which Gilbert Kennedy drew his sword, and, running Houston through the body, gave him a mortal wound, of which he died. He was outlawed, but in time returned home, and succeeded to his father’s estate. According to Wodrow’s “ Analecta,” he became morbidly pious, and having exasperated thereby a servant maid, she gave him some arsenic with his breakfast of bread-and-milk, in 1730, and but for the aid of a physician would have avenged the slaughter gf Houston near the Market Cross in 1705. One of the last brawls in which swords were drawn in the High Street occurred in the same year, when under strong external professions of rigid ‘Sabbath observance and morose sanctity of manner there prevailed much of secret debauchery, that broke forth at times. On the evening of the 2nd of February there had assembled a party in Edinburgh, whom drinking and excitement had so far carried away that nothing less than a dance in the open High Street would satisfy them. Among the party were Ensign Fleming of the Scots Brigade in the Dutch service, whose father, Sir James Fleming, Knight, had been Lord Provost in 1681 ; Thomas Barnet, a gentleman of the Horse Guards ; and John Galbraith, son of a merchant in the city. The ten o’clock bell had been tolled in the Tron spire, to warn all good citizens home; and these gentlemen, with other bacchanals, were in full frolic at a pzrt of the street where there was no light save-such as might fall from the windows of the houses, when a sedan chair, attended by two footmen, one of whom bore a lantern, approached. In the chair was no less a personage than David Earl of Leven, General of the Scottish Ordzance, and member of the Privy Council, proceeding on his upward way to the Castle of which he was governor. It was perilous work to meddle with such a person in those times, but the ensign and his friends were in too reckless a mood to think of consequences; so when Galbraith, in his dance reeled against one of the footmen, and was warned off with an imprecation, Fleming and his friend of the Guards said, “ It would be brave sport to overturn the sedan in the mud.” At once they assailed the earl’s servants, and smashed the lantern. His lordship spoke indignantly from his chair ; then drawing his sword, Fleming plunged it into one of the footmen ; but he and the others were overpowered and captured by the spectators. The young “rufflers,” on learning the rank of the man they had insulted, were naturally greatly alarmed, and Fleming dreaded the loss of his corn ’ ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGR, [High Street. Torthorwald could defend himself, ran him through the body, and slew him ...

Vol. 2  p. 196 (Rel. 0.27)

‘745.1 THE CLAN REGIMENTS. 327 venerable Market Cross, with the heralds, pursuivants, and the magistrates (many most unwillingly) in their robes, while Mr. David Beath proclaimed “ James VIII., King of Scotland, England, France, and Ireland,” in the usual old form, and read the Commission of Regency, dated 1743, with the manifesto of the Prince, dated at Paris, May 16th, 1745. A number of ladies on horseback, with swords drawn, acted as a guard of honour. “ A great multitude of sympathising spectators was present at the ceremony, and testified their satisfaction by cordial cheers. In the evening the long-deserted apartments of Holyrood were enlivened by a ball, at which the Jacobite ladies were charmed with the elegant manners and vivacity of the youthful aspirant to the throne.’’ On the following day Lord Nairne came in with the Atliol Highlanders; old Lord Kellie came in with only an aged serving man ; the Grants of Glenmomston, 250 strong, marched in on the morning of the zoth, but the main body of the clan stood aloof, though Lord Balmerino and m a y other noble and disinherited gentlemen (who came almost unattended) joined the standard. The Highlanders remained within their camp, or when in the city behaved themselves with the utmost order and decorum; no outrages occurred, and no brawls of any kind ensued ; meanwhile, the garrison remained close within the Castle, and till after the battle of Preston Pans, no collision took place between them and the troops. Their quiet, orderly, and admirable conduct formed a marked difference between them and most of the merciless ruffians, who, under Hawley, Huske, and Ctmberland, disgraced the British uniform; for the little army of Charles Edward vas as orderly as it was brave, and organised in a fashion of its own-the discipline of the modem system being added easily to the principle of clanship, and the whole-then only 3,000-were now completely equipped with the arms found in the city. The pay of a captain was 2s. 6d. daily; of a lieutenant, 2s. ; ensign, IS. 6d. ; of a private, 6d. In the clan regiments every company had a double set of officers. The Leine chrios (shirt of mail) or chosen men, were in the centre of each battalion, to defend the chief and colours. The front rank, when in line, consisted of the best blood of the clan and the best armed-particularly those who had targets. All these received IS. daily while the Prince’s money lasted. The battle of Preston Pans is apart from the history _ . - of Edinburgh; . but there, on the 20th Sep But few took up arms in his cause. :ember, the Highlanders, suffering under innumerrble disadvantages, gained a signal victory, in a ’ew minutes, over a well-disciplined and veteran rrmy, sweeping it from the field in irretrievable :onfusion. The cavalry escaped by the speed if their horses, but all the infantry were killed )r taken, with their colours, cannon, baggage, Irums, and military chest containing L6,ooo. Zharles, who, the night before the victory, slept .n a little house still shown at Duddingston, bore lis conquest with great moderation and modesty, :ven proposing to put the wounded-among whom vas the Master of Torphichen, suffering from wenty sword wounds, of which he died-in Holy- :ood, but the Royal Infirmary was preferred, as the ?alace was required for the purposes ,of royalty. On the zrst, preceded by IOO pipers playing :‘The king shall enjoy his own again,” the prisoners, to the number of 1,500, of whom 80 were Dfficers, were marched through Edinburgh (prior :o their committal to Logierait and the Castle If Doune), together with the baggage train, which nad been taken by the Camerons, and the colours if the 13th and 14th Light Dragoons, the 6th, 44th, +6th, 47th, and Loudon’s Corps. The Prince had the good taste not to accompany this triumphal procession. The officers were for a time placed in Queensberry House in the Canongate. Curiously enough, Sir John Cope’s cannon were all captured on a tramway, or line of wooden rails, the first of the kind known in Europe, and belonging to some coal-pits in the vicinity of the field. The pusillanimity of the regulars was very sinylar, but none more so than that of a party of light dragoons commanded by Major Caulfield, who fled from the field to the Castle of Edinburgh, 1 distance of ten miles, permitting themselves to be pursued by a single horseman, Colquhoun Grant of Burnside-a little property near Castle Grantwho, in the battle, at the head of twenty-eight Highlanders, captured two pieces of cannon. He pursued the fugitives to the very gates of the Castle, which received them, and were closed at his approach. After this he leisurely rode down the street, and,‘aRer being measured for a tartan suit in the Luckenbooths, left the city by the Nether Bow-his resolute aspect, ‘‘ bloody sword, and blood-stained habiliments ” striking terror into all who thought of opposing him. Grant was selected as one of the Prince’s Life Guards, under Lord Elcho. The dress of these Guards was blue faced with red, and scarlet waistcoats laced with gold ; the horse-fumiture the same. He lived long after these events as a Writer to the Signet in Edinburgh, where he died in 1792. _. He resided in Gavinloch’s ... THE CLAN REGIMENTS. 327 venerable Market Cross, with the heralds, pursuivants, and the magistrates (many ...

Vol. 2  p. 327 (Rel. 0.27)

306 QLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur‘s Seat. name of Arthur‘s Seat were anciently covered with wood. The other eminences in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh had similar appellations. Calton, or Culdoun, is admitted to be the hill covered with trees.” But there is another hill named thus- ChoiZZedm, near the Loch of Monteith. The rough wild path round the base of the Salisbury Craigs, long before the present road was formed, was much frequented for purpose of reverie by David Hume and Sir Walter Scott Thither Scott represents Reuben Butler as resorting on the morning after the Porteous mob :-‘‘ If I were to choose a spot from which the rising or setting sun could be seen to the greatest possible advantage, it would be that wild path winding round the foot of the high belt of semicircular rocks, called Salisbury Craigs, and marking the verge of the steep descent which slopes down into the glen on the southeastern side of the city of Edinburgh. The prospect in its general outline commands a close-built high-piled city, stretching itself out beneath in a form, which to a romantic imagination may be supposed to represent that of a dragon; now a noble ’arm of the sea, with its rocks, isles, distant shores, and boundary of mountains; and now a fine and fertile champaign country varied with hill and dale. . . . . This path used to be my favourite evening and morning resort, when engaged with a favourite author or a new subject of study.” The highest portion of these rocks near the Catnick, is 500 feet above the level of the Forth; and here is found a vein of rock different in texture from the rest “This vein,” says a writer, “has been found to pierce the sandstone below the footpath, and no doubt fills the vent of an outflow of volcanic matter from beneath. A vein of the same nature has probably fed the stream of lava, which forced its way between the strata of sandstone, and formed the Craigs.” A picturesque incident, which associates the unfortunate Mary with her turbulent subjects, occurred zt the foot of Arthur‘s Seat, in 1564. In the romantic valley between it and Salisbury Craigs there is still traceable a dam, by which the natural drainage had been confined to form an artificial lake ; at the end of which, in that year, ere her wedded sorrows began, the beautiful young queen, in the sweet season, when the soft breeze came laden witb the perfume of the golden whin flowers from the adjacent Whinny Hill, had an open-air banquet set forth in honour of the nuptials of John, fifth Lord Fleming, Lord High Chamberlain, and Elizabeth the only daughter and heiress of Robert Master of Ross. In 1645, when the dreaded pestilence reached ‘ Edinburgh, we find that in the month of April the rown Council agreed with Dr. Joannes Paulitius that for a salary of A80 Scots per month he should visit the infected, a vast number of whom had been borne forth from the city and hutted in the King’s Park, at the foot of Arthur‘s Seat; and on the 27th of June the Kirk Session of Holyrood ordered, that to avoid further infection, all who died in the Park should be buried there, and not within any churchyard, “ except they mor4 tified (being able to do so) somewhat, adpios usus, for the relief of other poor, being in extreme indigence.” (“ Dom. Ann.,” Vol. 11.) In November, 1667, we find Robert Whitehead, laud of Park, pursuing at law John Straiton, tacksman of the Royal Park, for the value of a horse, which had been placed there to graze at 4d per night, but which had disappeared-no uncommon event in those days ; but it was ulged by Straiton that he had a placard on the gate intimating that he would not be answerable either for horses that were stolen, or that might break their necks by falling over the rocks. Four years afterwards we read of a curious duel taking place in the Park, when the Duke’s Walk, so called from its being the favourite promenade of James Duke of Albany, was the common scene of combats with sword and pistol in those days, and for long after. In the case referred to the duellists were men in humble life. On the 17th June, 1670, William Mackay, a tailor, being in the Castle of Edinburgh, had a quarrel with a soldier with whom he was drinking, and blows were exchanged. Mackay told the soldier that he dared not use him so if they were without the gates of the fortress, on which they deliberately passed out together, procured a couple of sharp swords in the city, and proceeded to a part of the King’s Park, when after a fair combat, the soldier was run through the body, and slain. Mackay was brought to trial ; he denied having given the challenge, and accused the soldier of being the aggressor ; but the public prosecutor proved the reverse, so the luckless tailor-not being a gentleman-was convicted, and condemned to die. A beacon would seem to have been erected on the cone of Arthur’s Seat in 1688 to communicate with Fifeshire and the north (in succession from Garleton Hill, North Berwick, and St. Abb’s Head) on the expected landing of the Prince of Orange. On one occasion the appearance of a large fleet of Dutch fishing vessels off the mouth of the Firth excited the greatest alarm, being taken for-a hostile armament. -- ... QLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Arthur‘s Seat. name of Arthur‘s Seat were anciently covered with wood. The other ...

Vol. 4  p. 306 (Rel. 0.27)

Cmongate.1 THE CANONGATE THEATRE. 23 the morning;’’ and of the sanitary state of the community in those days some idea may be gathered from the fact that swine ran loose in the Canongate till 1583, when an attempt was made to put down the nuisance. In the city this was done earlier, as we find that in 1490 the magistrates ordain “the lokman, quhairwer he fyndis ony .swyne betwk the Castell and the Netherbow upon the Gaitt,” to seize them, with a fine of fourpence .upon each sow taken. Again, in 1506, swine found in the streets or kennels are to be slaughtered by the “lokman” and escheated ; and in 15 13 swine were again forbidden to wander, under pain of the owners being banished, and each sow to be escheat. At the same time fruit was forbidden to be sold on the streets, or in crames, ‘‘ holden thairupon, under the pain oi escheitt ”-that is, of forfeit. In 1562 no flesh was to be eaten or even cooked on ,Friday or Saturday, under a penalty of ten pounds; and in 1563 all markets were forbidden .in the streets upon Sunday. Among the first operations of the Improvement ’Trust were the demolitions at the head of St. Mary’s Wynd, including with them the removal 01 -the Closes of Hume and Boyd, the first alleys a1 the head of the street on the south side, and the erection on their site of lofty and airy tenements in A species of Scottish style. Four,alleys to the eastward, Bell’s, Gillon’s, Gibbs’ and Pine’s Closes, all narrow, dark, and filthy, have been without history or record j but Chessel’s Court, numbered as 240, exhibits a very superior style of architecture, and in 1788 was the scene 01 that daring robbery of the Excise Office which brought to the gallows the famous Deacon Brodie .and his assistant, thus closing a long career of secret villainy, his ingenuity as a mechanic giving him every facility in the pursuits to which he addicted himself. “ It was then customary for the shopkeepers of Edinburgh to hang their keys upon a nail at the back of their doors, or at least to take no pains in concealing them during the day. Brodie used to take impressions of them in putty or clay, a piece of which he used to carry in the palm of his hand. He kept a blacksmith in his pay, who forged exact copies of the keys he wanted, and with these it was his custom to open the shops of his fellow-tradesmen during the night.” In a house of Chessel’s Court there died, in I 854, an aged maiden lady of a very ancient Scottish stock-Elizabeth Wardlaw, daughter of Sir William Wardlaw, Bart., of the line of BalmuIe and Pitreavie in Fifeshire. In the Playhouse Close, a cdde-mc, and its neighbour the Old Playhouse Close, a narrow and gloomy alley, we find the cradle of the legitimate drama in Edinburgh. In the former, in 1747, a theatre was opened, on such a scale as was deemed fitting forthe Scottish capital, where the drama had skulked in holes and corners since the viceregal court had departed from Holyrood, in the days of the Duke of Albany and York. From 1727 till after 1753 itinerant companies, despite the anathemas of the clergy, used with some success the Tailors’ Hall in the Cowgate, which held, in professional phraseology, from ;E40 to ;E45 nightly.’ In the first-named year a Mr. Tony Alston endeavoured to start a theatre, in the same house which saw the failure of poor Allan Ramsay’s attempt, but the Society of High Constables endeavoured to suppress his “ abominable stage plays;” and when the clergy joined issue with the Court of Session against him, his performances had to cease. But, accqding to Wodrow, there had been some talk of building another theatre as early as 1728. In 1746 the foundation of the theatre within a back area (near St. John’s-Cross), now called the Playhouse Close, was laid by Mr. John Ryan, a London actor of considerable repute in his day, who had to contend with the usual opposition of the ignorant or illiberal, and that lack of prudence and thrift incidental to his profession generally. The house was capable of holding A70 ; the box seats were halfa-crown, the pit one-and-sixpence ; and for several years it was the‘kcene of good acting under Lee, Digges, Mrs. Bellamy, and Mrs. Ward. After the affair of 1745 the audiences were apt to display a spirit of political dissension. On the anniversary of the battle of Culloden, in I 749, some English officers who were in the theatre commanded the orchestra, in an insolent and unruly manner, to strike up an obnoxious air known as CulZoden ; but in a spirit of opposition, and to please the people, the musicians played (‘ You’re welcome, Charlie S h u t ” The military at once drew their sworQs and attacked the defenceless musicians and players, but were assailed by the audience with tom-up benches and every missile that couid be procured. The officers now attempted to storm the galleries ; but the doors were secured. They were then vigorously attacked in the rear by the Highland chairmen with their poles, disarmed, and most ignominiously drubbed and expelled ; but in consequence of this and similar disturbances, bills were put up notifying that no music would be played but such as the management selected. Another disturbance ensued soon after, occasioned by the performance of Garrick’s farce, ‘‘ High I ... THE CANONGATE THEATRE. 23 the morning;’’ and of the sanitary state of the community in those days ...

Vol. 3  p. 23 (Rel. 0.27)

346 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Drum. the resort of the curious still, according to Fullarton’s “Gazetteer,” and a long description of it appeared in the Courant for 1873. Gilmerton was long characterised simply as a village of colliers of a peculiarly degraded and brutal nature, as ferocious and unprincipled as a gang of desperadoes, who rendered all the adjacent roads unsafe after nightfall, and whose long career of atrocities culminated in the execution of two of them for a sipgularly brutal murder in 1831. Its coal-which is of prime quality-was vigorously worked in 1627, and is supposed to have been famous a century earlier ; but its mines have been abandoned, and the adjacent lime-works-the oldest in Scotland-were worked from time immemorial. Half a mile to the eastward lies the ancient estate and manor-house of Drum, the residence of old of the Somerville family, secluded from the highway and hidden by venerable trees-a Scoto- Normah race, whose progenitor, William de Somerville, came into Scotland during the reign of David I., who made him Lord of Carnwath, and whose descendants figured in high places for several generations. His son obtained from William the Lion a grant of Linton in 1174, for slaying-according to tradition-a monstrous serpent, which was devastating the country. William, fourth of that name, was a commander at the battle of Largs; Thomas, hi9 son, served under Wallace ; and his son Sit Waltet, the cqmrade of Bruce, married Giles, the daughter and heiress of Sir Johr. Herring, with whom he obtained the lands of Drum, Gilmerton, and Goodtrees, in the parish of Liberton. Unlike most Scottish titled families, the Somervilles were ever loyal to king and country. John: third Lord Somerville of Drum, led the Clydesdale horse at the Battle of Sark, in 1449, and his son, Sir John, fell at Flodden, by the side of his royal master. James, sixth lord, served in the queen’s army at Langside, and was severely wounded. Hugh, his son, recovered the lands of Gilmerton and Drum-which had gone into the possession of the Somervilles of Cambusnethan -and built the mansion-house of Drum in 1585 ; and four years after it was the scene of a sad family tragedy, which is related at some length in the ‘ I Domestic Annals of Scotland.” Hugh, eighth lord, who died there in 1640, in his seventieth year, was buried in Liberton Church; and James, his successor, served with distinction in the armies of France and Venice. ‘( James Somerville of Drum ” (twentieth in descent from Sir Walter Somerville), “ and tenth lord of that ilk,” says the “ Memorie of the Sommer- * viles,” “died at Edinburgh 3rd January, 1677, in the 82nd year of his age, and was interred by his ladye‘s syde in the Abbey Church ok Holyrood, maist of the nobilitie and gentrie in tome being present, with two hundred torches.‘’ James, the tenth lord, was lieutenant-colonel of the Scots Guards, in which his son George was adjutant. His eldest son, James, when riding home to Drum one night from Edinburgh, in July, 1682, found on the way two friends fighting, sword in hand-namely, Thomas Learmonth, son of an advocate, and Hew Paterson younger of Bannockburn, who had quarrelled over their cups. He dismounted, and tried to separate them, but was mortally wounded by Paterson, and died two days after at Drum, leaving an infant son to carry on the line of the family. A son of the twelfth lord-so called, though four generations seem to have declined to use the title-was killed at the battle of St. Cas in 1758 3 and John, the fifteenth lord, is chiefly remarkable as the introducer of the breed of Merino sheep into Britain ; and by the death of Xubrey-John, nineteenth Lord Somerville, in 1870, the title of this fine old Scottish race became dormant. Though a little beyond our radius, while treating of this district it is impossible not to glance at such classic and historic places as Hawthornden and Roslin, and equally of such sylvan beauty as Iasswade. Situated- amid the most beautifully wooded scenery in the Lowlands, the Castle of Roslin, taking its name from Russ, a promontory, and Zyn, a waterfall, crowns a lofty mass of insulated rock overhanging the Esk. This mass is bold ?nd rugged in outline, and at one time was convertible into an island, ere the deep and moat-like gulley on its western side was partly filled up. Across this once open fosse a massive bridge of one arch has now been thrown, and to this the path from the village descends a rapid incline, through leafy coppice and by precipitous rocks, overlooked by the lofty hill which is crowned by the wonderful chapel. Built of reddish stone, and luxuriantly clothed with ivy, the massive ruins form a most picturesque object amid the superb landscape. For the most part, all that is very ancient consists of a threefold tier of massive vaults, the enormous strength and solidity of which put even modern Scottish builders to shame. Above these vaults, and facing the vast windows of what must have been a noble banqueting- hall, is perched a mansion of comparatively modern date, having been erected in 1563, and ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Drum. the resort of the curious still, according to Fullarton’s “Gazetteer,” ...

Vol. 6  p. 346 (Rel. 0.27)

Augustus seems peculiarly applicable to the Edinburgh of Jsmes V., and still more to that of James 11. “He imprisoned Paris in a Circular chain of great towers, high and solid,” says the author of (‘ Notre Dame j ” “for more than a century after this the houses went on pressing upon each other, accumulating and rising higher and higher. They .got deeper and deeper; they piled storeys on storeys j they mounted one upon another j they shot up monstrously tall, for they had not room to grow breadthwise; each sought to raise its head above its neighbour to have a little air ; every open space became filled up, and disappeared. The houses at length leaped over the wall of Philip Augustus, and scattered themselves joyously over the plain. Then they did what they liked, and cut themselves gardens out of the fields.” And of the old walled city the welI-known lines of Scott are most apposite :- “ Such dusky grandeur clothed the height, When the huge castle holds its state, Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky, Piled deep and massy, close and high, And all the steep slope down, Mine own romantic town ! ” New Edinburgh appeals to us in a different sense. It tells peculiarly in all its phases 01 modern splendour, wealth, luxury, and all the arts of peace, while “in no other city,” it has been said, ‘‘ will you find so general an appreciation oi books, arts, music, and objects of antiquarian interest. It is peculiarly free from the taint of the ledger and counting-house. It is a Weimar with. out a Goethe-Boston without its twang.” This is the Edinburgh through the noble street: of which Scott limped in his old age, white-haired and slow, leaning often on the arm of Lockhari .or the greyplaided Ettrick Shepherd; the Edin. burgh where the erect and stalwart form of thr athletic ‘‘ Christopher North,” with his long lock: of grizzled yellow-his “tawny mane,” as hr called them-floating on the breeze, his keen blur eyes seemingly fixed on vacancy, his left hanc planted behind his back, and his white neck cloth oft awry, strode daily from Gloucester Plaa to the University, or to “Ebony’s,” to meet Jefiey Rutherford, Cockbum, Delta, Aytoun, Edwarc Forbes, and Carlyle ; the Edinburgh where Simpson the good, the wise, and the gentle, made his dis covery concerning chloroform, and made his mark too, as “the grand old Scottish doctor,” whosi house in Queen Street was a focus for all thi learned and all the Ziterati of Europe and Americi -the Edinburgh of the Georgian and Victorian age We propose to trace the annals of its glorious University, from the infant establishment, founded by the legacy of Robert Bishop of Orkney, in 1581, and which was grafted on the ancient edifice n the Kuk-of-Field, and the power of which, as years went on, spread fast wherever law, theology, medicine, and art, were known. The youngest znd yet the noblest of all Scottish universities, :nrolliug yearly the greatest number of students, it ias been the dma mater of many men, who, n every department of learning and literature, iave proved themselves second to none; and ‘kom the early days when Rollock taught, to those when it rose into repute as a great school of medicine under the three Munroes, who held with honour the chair of anatomy for 150 years, and when, in other branches of knowledge, its fame yew under Maclaurin, Black, Ferguson, Stewart, Hamilton, Forbes, Syme, and Brewster, we shan ;race its history down to the present day, when its privileges *cl efficiency were so signally aukmented by the Scottish University Act of 1858. Nor shall we omit to trace the origin and development of the stage in Edinburgh, from the time when the masks or plays of Sir David Lindsay of the Mount were performed in the open air in the days of James V., “when weather served,” at the Greensidelwell beneath the Calton Hill, and the theatre at the Watergate, when “his Majesty’s servants from London ” were patronised by the Duke of Albany and York, then resident in Holyrood, down to the larger establishments in the Canongate, under the litigious Tony Astdn, and those of later years, which saw the performances of Kean, Kemble, and Mrs. Siddons, and the production of the Waverley dramas, under the auspices of Terry, who, as Scott said, laughingly, had ‘‘ temfied ” his romances into plays. Arthur’s Seat and the stupendous craigs, the name of which is so absurdly and grotesquely corrupted into Salisbury,” alone are unchanged since those pre-historic days, when, towering amid the wilderness, they overlooked the vast forest of oaks that stretched from :he pastoral hills of Braid to the sea-the wood of Drumsheugh, wherein roamed the snow-white Caledonian bull, those ferocious Caledonian boars, which, as Martial tells us, were used to heighten the torments of unhappy sufferers on the cross; the elk, the stag, and the wolf; and amid which rose the long ridgy slopethe &‘in-that formed the site of the future old city, terminating in the abrupt bluff of the Castle rock. There, too, rose the bare round mass of the Calton, the abode of the fox and hare, and where the bustard had its nest amid the gorse; ... seems peculiarly applicable to the Edinburgh of Jsmes V., and still more to that of James 11. “He ...

Vol. 1  p. 7 (Rel. 0.27)

298 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Mary’s Wynd. the maintenance of the beads-+eople of that hospital ; and every person who refused to collect thus, was fined forty pence Scots, for the use of the poor. At this period the chaplain’s salary was only six shillings and eightpence per annum. Spottiswoode tells us that in the chartularies of St. Giles, “the nuns of St. Mary’s Wynd, in the city of Edinburgh, are recorded,” and in the statutes of the burgh, enacted during a terrible plague in 15~0, a reference to the chapel is made in the case of Marion Clerk, who was convicted by an assize of concealing her infection, and attending, with many others, mass in ‘‘ the chapell of Sanct Mary Wynd, on Sonday,” and thereby risking the safety of all. For this crime the poor woman was ordained to suffer death by drowning at the Quarry Holes, near the east end of the Calton Hill. In 1562 great excitement was occasioned in the city by an act of violence perpetrated by the notorious Earl of Bothwell, who, with the aid of the Marquis d’Elbeuf, Lord John of Coldinghame, and other wild spirits, broke up the doors of Cuthbert Ramsay’s house in St. Mary’s Wynd one night, while searching, sword in hand, for his daughterin- law, Alison Craig, a celebrated courtesan, who, though living under the protection of ‘‘ the godly Er1 of Arrane,” as Knox records in very coarse language, yet contrived to be on very good terms with other nobles who were his avowed enemies. A strong remonstrance was presented to the Queen on this subject, beseeching her to punish the perpetrators ; but as that was no easy matter, the brawl was hushed up, and, thus emboldened, Both. well and other gallants proceeded to play wildei pranks in the streets during the night, till Gavin Hamilton, Abbot of Kilwinning, who had joined the Reformation party, resolved to curb thell violence by the strodg hand. According to the his tories of Knox and Keith, he armed all his followers. sallied forth to oppose the revellers, and a seriour conflict ensued in the street, between the Crosr and Tron. Crossbow bolts and hackbut shots fie\\ far and near, while the alarm-bells summoned thc burghers to “the redding of the fray,” and riva leaders came sallying forth as hate or humour lec them, to join in the riot ; till the Earls of Murraj and Huntley, who were then residing at Holyrood by order of the Queen, marched up the Canongatt with all the armed men they could muster, anc crushed the tumult. Bothwell afterwards, by thc mediation of Knox, effected a reconciliation witlthe Earl of Arran, the Abbot of Kilwinning, anc others who were his enemies. In the subsequent conflicts of 1572, the house? in Leith Wynd and St. Mary’s Wynd were unroofed . nd all the doors and windows of those on the west ide of the latter were built up, among other prejarations made by Sir William Kirkaldy to defend he town against the king’s men. At a still later Late in the same year all the houses at the head if each of those wynds were “tane doun,” and 10 doubt on this occasion the chapel of St. Mary vould be ruined and dismantled with the rest. Again in 1650, when preparations were made to lefend the city against Cromwell, Nicoll records n his quaint diary, that the magistrates demolished ill the houses ‘‘ in St. Marie Wynd, that the enymie ould haif no schelter thair,” and that the cannon nounted on the Netherbow might’have free pas- ‘age for their shot. At the foot of the wynd was situated the Cow- ;ate Port, a city gate constructed as a portion of he second wall in 1513. At a subsequent date tnother was erected across the wynd, at its junction Kith the Pleasance; it figures in Rothiemay’s map as he Portaplatea Sancte Marie, a large arched buildng with gables at each end, and in Gordon’s day t was seldom without the head, hands, or quarters if some unfortunate, such as Garnock and other Zovenanters, displayed on its spike?. On the approach of the Highlanders in 1715, it was demolished, the citizens believing themselves unable to defend it; but a portion of its wall, with one rusty spike thereon, remained until 1837,when it was removed to make way for a new Heriot’s school. The whole alley was long, and until quite recently a species of great Rag Fair, where all manner of cast-off garments were exposed for sale, the walls literally appearing to be clothed with them from end to end. In a house which had its entrance from the east side of the wynd, but the windows of which opened to the Canongate, there long resided two maiden ladies of the now extinct house of Traquair-the Ladies Barbara and Margaret Stuart-twin sisters, the children of Charles fourth Earl of Traquair (who died in 1741), and his Countess, Mary Maxwell, of the noble house of Nithsdale. The last of these two, Lady Barbara, died on the 15th of December, 1794, and they were among some of the last of note who lingered in the Old Town. “ They drew out their innocent lives in this place,” says Robert Chambers, “where latterly one of their favourite amusements was to make dolls, and little beds for them to lie on-a practice not quite uncommon in days long gone by, being to some degree followed by Queen Mary.” In the tenement opposite the site of SL Mary’s chapel, on the east side of the wynd, and forming the portion of it that led into Boyd‘s Close, there ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Mary’s Wynd. the maintenance of the beads-+eople of that hospital ; and every ...

Vol. 2  p. 298 (Rel. 0.27)

286 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Infirmary Street. ._ Freirs xx li. owing to them, at this last Fasterns evin, for thair bell, conform to the act maid thairupon ” (Burgh Records). In 1553 another Act ordains “John Smyson” to pay them the sum “of xx li compleit payment of thair silver bell;” and in 1554-5 in the Burgh Accounts is the item-“To the Blackfriars and Greyfriars, for their preaching yeirlie, ilk ane of thame :elf ane last of sownds beir; price of ilk boll xxviij s. summa, xvj li. xvj s.” When John Knox, after his return to Scotland, began preaching against the Mass as an idolatrous worship, he was summoned before an ecclesiastical judicatory held in the Blackfriars’ church on the 15th May, 1556. The case was not proceeded with at the time, as a tumult was feared j but the summons so greatly increased the power and popularity of Knox, that on that very 15th of May he preached to a greater multitude than he had ever done before. In 1558 the populace attacked the monastery and church, and destroyed everything they contained, leaving the walls an open ruin. In 1560 John Black, a Dominican friar, acted as the permanent confessor of Mary of Guise, during her last fatal illness in the Castle of Edmburgh, and Knox in his history indulges in coarse innuendoes concerning both. His name is still preserved in the following doggerel verse :- “ There was a certain Black friar, always called Black, And this was no nickname, for bluck was his work ; Of all the Black friars he was the blackest clerk, Born in the Black Friars to be a black mark.’’ This Dominican, however, was a learned and subtle doctor, a man of deep theological research, who in 1561 maintained against John Willox the Reformer, and ex-Franciscan, a defence of the Roman Catholic faith for two successive days, and gave him more than ordinary trouble to meet his arguments. He was. afterwards stoned in the streets “by the rabble,” on the 15th December, or, as others say, the 7th of January. By 1560 the stones of the Black Friary were used “ for the bigging of dykes,” and other works connected with the city. The cemetery was latterly the old High School Yard, and therein a battery of cannon was erected in 157 I to batter a house in which the Parliament of the king‘s men held a meeting, situated somewhere on the south side of the Canongate. The Dominican gardens, in which the dead body of Darnley was found lying under a tree, and their orchard, lay to the southward, and in 1513 were intersected, or bounded by the new city wall, in which there remained-till July, 1854, when some six hundred yards of it were demolished, and a parapet and iron railing substituted-an elliptically arched doorway, half buried in the pavement, three feet three inches wide, and protected by a round gun-port, splayed out four feet four inches wide. Through this door the unscathed body of Darnley must have been borne by his’murderers, ere they blew up the house of the Kirk-of-field. It was an interesting relic, and its removal was utterly wanton. The next old ecclesiastical edifice on the other side of the street was Lady Yester‘s church, which in Gordon’s map is shown as an oblong barn-like edifice surrounded by a boundary wall, with a large window in its western gable. Lady Yester, a pious and noble dame, whose name was long associated with ecclesiastical chGties in Edinburgh, was the third daughter of Mark Kerr, Commendator of Newbattle Abbey, a Lord of Session, and founder of the house of Lothian. Early in life she was married to James Lord Hay of Yester, and hac! two sons, John Lord Yester, afterwards Earl of Tweeddale, and Sk William, for whom she purchased the barony of Linplum After being a widow some years she married Sir Andrew Kerr younger of Fernyhurst. In 1644 she built the church at the south-east corner of the High School Wynd, at the expense of LI,OOO of the then money, with 5,000 merks for the salary of the minister. It was seated for 817 persons, and in August, 1655, the Town Council appointed a district of the city a parish for it. Shortly before her death, Lady Yester “caused joyne thereto an little isle for the use of the minister, yr she lies interred.” This aisle is shown by Gordon to have been on the north side of the church, and Monteith (1704) describes the following doggerel inscription on her ‘‘ tomb on the north side of the vestiary” :- “ It’s needless to erect a marble tomb : . The daily bread that for the hungry womb, And bread of life thy bounty hath provided For hungry souls, all times to be divided ; World-lasting monuments shall reare, That shall endure, till Christ himself appear. Posd was thy life, prepared thy happy end ; Nothing in either was without commend. Let it be the care of all who live hereafter, To live and die, like Margaret Lady Yester.” Who dyed 15th Match, 1647. Her age 75. “Blessed are the dead, which die in the Lord ; they rest from their labours, and their works do follow them.”- Rev. xiv. 13. After Cromwell’s troops rendered themselves houseless in 1650 by burning Holyrood, quarters were assigned them in the city churches, including Lady Yester‘s; and in all of these, and part of the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Infirmary Street. ._ Freirs xx li. owing to them, at this last Fasterns evin, for ...

Vol. 4  p. 286 (Rel. 0.27)

GENERAL INDEX. 371 118-121 ; tomb of, Corstorphine Church, 111. 121 Forrester’s Wynd, I. 121. 122, 148, 219, 11. 105 239 111. 118 124 Forster Geheh i11. I I &Z Forth And Bredtford. k r l of. I. 54 The, 111. 292-294 brother, ib. the, 11. 346, 363 111. 90, 124 11. 176, 111. go 111. 311 288 111. 318, 323 111. 106, 323 Forth Street, 11. I, 185 ‘go Fortifications of fnchkeith Island, Fortune, Matthew, 111. go; hk ‘I Fortunes of Nigel,” Allusions tc Fortune’s I‘avern, I. 231, 234, 267> Fortune’s Tontine, Princes Street, Fothergll, Dr., physician, 11. 3oa, Foulis of Colinton, Sir James, 11. Fouli of Ravelston, Family of, Foulis of Ravelston, Sir James, Foulis of Woodhall, Sir Jurres, the Foulis &ily, ’?he, 111. 323 Foulis’s Close 11. 159 Fountain bedre Holyrood Palace, Fountakbridge, 11. 132, 215, 218, Fountain Close, I. 276, 277, 11. 147 Fountain Well, The, I. 144, ZIO Fountainhall, Lord, I. 58, 60, 97, 146, 160, 169, 170, 202, 238, 251, 270, 11. 28, 34, 35. 44 59, 75, 81, 2x7, 223, 225, aa6, Sa1, 315, 111. 267 painter 111. 5 11. 79 *81 2x9, 221, 222 346, 367, 111. 13, 42, 46, 1201 150s ‘55,330 Fawkes, Brigadier, I. 32% 111. Fowler, W i l l i , House of, I. 102 236 . Fowler’s Close, 1. 276 Fox‘s Holes, The, 11. 313 Franc& Bell’s Close, 11. 241 Frank, Capture of Edinburgh Castle by William, I..z+ Franklin’s, Benjamin, visit to Edinburgh 11. 282 Fraser, hexander, Lord Strichen, Fraser, Alexander (see Gilles ie) Fraser, Luke, of the High &hool, Fraser Major Andrew 11. 139 ~t) Fraser’ Tytler, Lard Woodhduse- F&r Simon 111. 351 Frase;of Beahrt, I. 66 Fraser of Strichen Mrs 11, 163 Fraser the music& I.’;~o Frederkk Street 11. 151, 162; famous reside&, 11. 162 Free Assembly Hall 11. 97 Free Church Colleg;?, I. 86, 11. 95 s6, 97, IF Phte 18 ; library oi the, 11. 97, 9; its donors, 11. 1.054 11. 2 9 4 7 295, 327 lee U. 110 98 Free Church of Scotland, Offices of FreeChurcR, Founding of the, I I. 144 Free Church of St. John 1. 310 Free Gardeners of bmughton Free General Assembly 11. I FIK St. Cuthbert’sChirch, 41. 215 Fw Tron Church, 11. 275 French ambassador’s chapel, Cowgate, 11. 258 *z60 French influe;= in the Scottish court, 1. 44 French prisoners, The Castle a receptacle for 1. 71,78; attempted escape oc II.’248 Friars’ Wynd, I. 219 Friends of the People, Treasonable practices of the, 11. 236,237, 343, 111. 67, 278. Friends’ meeting-house I. 381 Fullertan, Mansion oi Adam, I. Fynd Marison on the manners of Fynie, Agnes, the supped witch, Fyvie, Alexander Lord, I. 167; the, 11. 5 barony, 11. 183 277 278 I1.330,331 Provost, 11. a80 the Edinburgh people, I. 198 G Gabriel’r Road 11. 114, 115, 117, Gace,’M.de, and Edinburgh Castle, Gaelic church, The, 11. 184, 235 171 182, I I I . ’ ~ ~ I. 67 25+ 274 Gaelic Free Church 11. 214 Gainsborough, the hinter, 11. 89 Gairdner Dr. 11. 335 Gairns o/Gre&hill Adam 111. 47 Galachlaw Hill, Liberton, h I , 33c Gallery of the kings, Holyrood Galloway, Alexander Oar1 of, 11. 257; his wife’s ostentatious dis. play, ib. Galloway House, 11. 257 Callowlee, The, 1-117,118, 11. 115, 111. 151, 154, 1551 15% 157 Gallows The 11. *z 3 Galt, tie ndvelist, 41. 142, 2o0, 111. 74 “Garb of Old Caul,” the air, 11. Gardenstone, Lord, I. 171.172 11. rza, III. 75 ; his passion foriigs, Palace, 11. 74, 76, 77. 79 244, 111. 26 1. 172 Gardiner, Colonel I. 324 Gardiner‘s CresceAt 11. 215 Gamock the CoLenanter and others’ I. 160 161, 298, IIi. 156 Garrick’David’II. 23 III.z4o,z41 Gas, F k t ‘use’of, in’ Edinburgh, I. 203 GateTower I. g Gavin Do&, %ishopofDunkid, I. 39 263, 11. 251 255 285 Gavin kamilton, Aibot bf Kilwinning, I. 298 Gavinloch’s Land, I. 327 Gawin Dunbar I. 42 15 Gay, the wt’I I& J? , 38; house wRere‘h; lived k $\7 Gayfie? House, II.136,161, 185, 111. 165 Gaytield Place 111. 161 162 Gaytield Squak 11. 284, 111. SI, Ged, ;he inventor of stereotyping, Geddes, Alexander, artist, I. 366, 11. ‘87 Geddes, MurderofJames, I. xg4,1gs Geddes Jenny I. 51 744 111.184; riots ’on acciunt df, I.’ 122 ; her stool I. *146 11. 87 Gedde;, Robe;, Laird of Scotstoun, I. 253 Geddes‘ Close I. 2 6 Geikie ,F’rof&r ?II. 27 General Assemhl;, The, I. go, asg, 2611 11. 39,& 797 133 135 144, 233, m%,zg8,335; meebngdf the, Plate 13 General Assembly of the Free Church 11. 146 General Asemblv Hall. I. 210, 11. 161 162 11. 335, 382 - , - - 230 Gyeral Post Ofice, Edinburgh, I. General’s Entry, The, 11.327, *332, Generals Watch Currie, 111. 331 Gentle, Bailie, I.’ 107 Gentlemen Pensioners, I. 51 Geordie Boyd’s Mud Brig, 11. 82 Geordie More, the dwarf, 111. 23 George Inn The old 11. 326,379 George Maiter of d g u s , 11. 279 George 11. Statue of I1 298 George IYI., Sub&ion of the Jacobites to It. 247; proposed statue to, If. 194, 270; and the volunteers 11. 188 George IV. bridge, I. x m , 123, 217, 291,292, *293,294,378, Plate 11, 11. 238, 242, 258, asg, 262, 271, 274, 326 Georee IV.’s visit to Edinbnrrh. 357 * 333, ,345 11-108, 13, 124, 165, 287, $1; 354, 111. 74, 77. 86, 146; ~ P U - larity of, 1. 350, 11. 5 8 ; prqlamation of, 111. 107 ; his landing at Leith, III. d; Chantrey’s statue of, 11.151 George Square, I. n74,II. 95, 255, 269, 2831 333. 33-344, 345, 347, 358, 111. 142 ; view of, 11. * 341 George Street, 11. 86, 91~92, 118, ‘3P-15‘~ 153 164 165 172 173 175. III. 76; hew of, b d rg German Church, The, 111. 88 “Giant’s Causeway,” The, 11. 144 Giants The Irish 11. IZI Gmnt’; Brae Leilh Links 111. a& Gibbet and h t e r y o n &ton Hill, Gibbet Toll The 111. 211 Gibbet 11.646 Gibbet Stree;. 11. 346 11. I01 Gibbet Toll, 11. 34%; 355 Gibbs’ Close, Canongate, 11.23,227 Gibson, Sir Alexander, Abduction of, I. 168 Gibson of Pentland, Sir Aiexander, Gibson-Craig, Sir James, 11. ~23, 1% 111.322 Gibson-Craig, Sir W i l l i , I. 226, 111. 322 Gibson - Maitland, Sir Alexandei Charles 11. 125 Gibson oiDurie, Thomas, I. I&) Gibson the painter 11. go GifforbPark 11. 3;9 Gilbert Grah‘am, painter, 11.88 Gilbertoun 111. 149, rgo Gilchrist, hr. John Borthwick, 11. ilderwy Execution of, I. 151 Gillespie: the Brothers, III. 3 Gikspie’s Hospital, 111. 31, H, 37,41,@ ; Black Tom’s ghost, Gillespie’s School, 111. 33 Gillies Lord 1. 135 CilIilAd, th; goldsmith, 111. 76 Gillis Bishop, 111.45 GilloLs Close, XI. 23 Gilmerton, I. 95,155 111.158~343, 344, 346, 351 ; i& local history 111. 343 ; the manor-house of thi Kinlochs ib Gilmerton&&e, III. 344,345351 Gilmore Park, 11. 219 Gilmore Place United Presbyterian Church 111. 30 GilmoursbCraigmillar,The I. 169, 111. 57, 58, 5% 338; t d i r successors. 111.61, 62 Girls’ House of Refuge 11.218 Girnel Craig, The, 11. ;13 Girthcross The 11.~,41,72,111.~ Giuglini Signor: I.. 351 Gladiatdrial exhibition at Holy. Glcdstbne, Su John, 111.250, *qz, Gladstone, Sir Thomas, 111.~51 Gladstnne, Right Hon. W. E., 111. Gladstone family, The, 111. 25 Gladstone, Thomas, I. IM Gladstone Place, Leiih, 111. 251 Gladstone’s Land, I. 19 Glammis, John Lord, 1. 83, Q Glammis, Master of, I. zog, 210 Glasgow, Archbishops of, I. 38, ag, “Glasgow Arms,” The, I. 178 Glasgow, Earls of I. 16 11. 339, 111.26 . Conntekof, I? 144, 239 Glasgowkcad 11.214 Glasgow Uniod Bank Company, 11. Glass House Company, The Leith, Glass Works, The Leith, 111. 1% Glencairn. Earl of I. qq. 106.11. 111. 319 G335 111. 34 r o d 11. 75 314 24, 250 15% 258, 265 263 ‘5’ 111.280 23% “73 17 58, 73.101, 123, 1%174. 334 11 Gledcoe, Massacre of, I. 170 Glengay: the Highland chief, I. Glenble Terrace, 111. 30 Glenlee Lord 11. a70 Glenorihy, Vi&onnt, I. 238 111.317 Glenorchy, Lady, I. 238-1247, 359 -362: 11. 338: its ministers, I. 360, 361 ; Free Church, 111.158; the school I. 361 Glimpses of hdinbnrgh in 1783.11. 1x9 Gloucester Place. II.qg, zoo, 111.74 Glover Edmnnd, the actor I. 343 Ccdolihin, Earl of 11. 3 .I36 Godscroft thechronicler,!. 35 11.8 Gogar,II1.318;itslocalhrsfo;l,ib. Gogar Bmk, 111. 319 -361 111. 317: Chapel Of, I. 360 Gogm Green, 111. 37 Gogm Stone village, PII. 318 Gold mines on Cravford Muir,I.& v d e n Acre, 111.,?5 Golden Charter The, I,34,II.278 Goldie Principal’ 11. 278 Goldsrhh Olivgr, 11. 2% ; an old tailor’s &I1 ab. Goldsmiths &all I 274 Goldsmiths, The kdinburgh, I. 174 Golf, Nativecountry of, 11. II :.the game of, 111. 30, 31; vanous golf clubs, 111. 30; golf balls, 111. I1 376 Golf HGuse, III. 262, 265 Golf Tavern 111.30 Golfers, Ednburgh Compaoy oC 111. 31 260-262 Golfers’ Land 11. 10, II Golfing on thd Linka of h i $ 111. G d u Prof John 111.27 68 GoodsGed o<ScienAes, 111.’~ %dtrees, 111.340,3+2 ;its owners, G& Dub The I1 346 Gordon. DAkeof, L‘b, 62, 75, 78, 8% 91, 11- 1% 1331 367, 111. 14% 258, 338,365 ; house of, 1.93 Gordon, Uuches of, I. 88, r q , 275, 367, 11. 16, SI, 27, 165, 339, 111. 1% 1549 163 Gordon, Lord Adam, 11. 311, 342, 111. 104 Gordon Lord 111. 182 C;ordoi Sir kdam 11. 76 Gordon: Sir John,’II. 159 Gordon of Cluny Colonel John, 11. 167 ; his ,Lie, 11. 218 ; the family of, 111. 41, 42. Gordon of Earlston, Su John, 111. I” “Y Gordon of Ellon James, Murder of children of, Ii. 182 Gordon of Haddo, Sir John, I. 146, 11. 87. Sir George 111. 57 Cordon if Kindroch’I11. 182 Gordon of Lesmoir, &U Alexander, 111.161 ; his widow, 11.123~111. 16r GordondLetterfonrie, III.zo3,w Gordan of Newhalt I. 121 Gardon of Pitluri Si William, Gordon Patrick I. 55 I;ordodof Rotdemay, I. 95, 187, 364r I1. 2~ 39. 731 1 0 1 2 103, 131, 133, 225, 234, 246 a68 286 302 323, 367, 37 IIi. 7 ;‘his dLds‘I eye new ofhinburgh 11. 280, 281 Lis maps, sic Its# of illustmtimrr .) 111. 182 192, 21% 298, P, 316, 34% 362, Gordan, the goldsmith 111 42 Gordon, Hon. Alexander, i. 282 Gordon LadyJean I 282 Gordon’ Lady Katl$ine 111. 135 Gordo; Mn., danghte; of Prof. Wikm 1I.1~0,156,1g5,1II.7+,75 h e , Th; river, 111. 318 ksford House, I. 1% >orford‘s Clau, I. 118, 1x9, 11. 82, 111. 66 hurlay Robert, House of I. 116, * izo, ;z3 ; his son John, ’I. 116 hwrie, Fad of, I. 175, p5, 316, 111: 134. 135 kwrie conspiracy, 111. i34, 135 3raceMount Liberton Ill. 30 >raham, Dr. lames, th; quad, 11. 242, 310; hu lectures, 11. 342 ;rah.am, General, husband of Miss Femer 11. ‘3 :darn, j a m s eilles ie architect, 11- I79 200, 370. 11% ;5, 327 >raham, patrick, Archbishopof%. ?rabam the painter 11. go JAG Portrait ofhrx.. II. ss ; A m of Halyards, I. 195 >raham of Netherby, Sir Jamhham. Miss Clementina Stirling, Andrews, 11. 55 11. 162 11. zq;herpwerofpersonatioG, 11. aoB >rammar or High School of Leith, 111. *265 >rammar School of Edinburgh, 11, 287,301 >raumont, Countess of, 11.58 ~ 144 ... INDEX. 371 118-121 ; tomb of, Corstorphine Church, 111. 121 Forrester’s Wynd, I. 121. 122, 148, 219, ...

Vol. 6  p. 377 (Rel. 0.23)

GENERAL INDEX. 371 Black Watch, 11. 89, 138, 149, 179. Black Wigs ClLb, 111. 123 Blackwood, Hnilie, 111. 15 Blackwood, William, I. 157, 291, 11. 139, 141, 142 ; the saloon in his establinhment, 11. * 141 ; his rrsidence, 111. 50 BfacA-wood's Mapasiw, 1. 339, 11. 322, 111. 195 288 23; ;Fa# ;2; ;7;g; 1.g WirZtors 11.140 IIP. 74 Blair,' Sir Jdmes Hunter, Lord Provost, I. 179, 373, 376, 11. 283, 111. 89 Blair of Avontoun. Lord President. 236, 2 , II:27, 29, 120, 161, 271, Blair Street, I. 245, 376, 11. 231, Blarquhan Laird of 111. 36 BIair's Cl&, I. 65. & 11. 329 ;the Duke of Gordon's house, 1. *p Blairs of Balthayock, Tom-house ofthe 11. 139 Blanc, kippolyte J., architect, 111. 38 Bland, the comedian, I. 342, 343 Blaw Wearie 111. 305 Bkis-sifwr, ?he gratuity, 11. 290, 383, 119. 45, 1 3 6 ~ 2 ~ Zj8,III. I 291 Blew Stone The I. 79 Blind Schdl, Cdigmillar, 11. 336 Blockhouse of St. Anthony. Leith. 111. 222, "23 J'Blue Blanket," The, I. 34, '36, 43, 11. 262, 278, 111. 55 Blumenreich, Herr, 111.88 Blyth's Close, 1. ga, 111. 66 Bmk's Land, West Port, I. 224 Boar Club The 111. IW Board of Manuiactnres, 11. 8 3 4 6 , Body-snatchers Early 11. 1.w B o ~ l l y , R o d n ci& near, 111. Bo%l?yTower 111. 326 "328 Bonham, Sir Galter. II.'57 Bonkel Sir Edward I. 304 Bonnet'birds' club', 111.123 Bonnet-makers The 11. 265 Bonnington, n&r Le'ith, 11.~5,III. W. ,306 ; view in, 111. * 96 Bonntngton House, 111. 88, 91, *93, 147 Bonnington Mill, 111. 90, 247 Bonniugton Road, l I I . 8 8 , 1 2 8 , 1 ~ , Bonnington Sugar-refining Com- Bonnyhaugh 111.90 gr Bordeaux, &c de,Hr Holyrood, Boreland homas the pcssessor of the k&g$ stable, 11. 225; his house I. * 80 1I.a25,n6 Bore-s&e or hare-stone, The, I. 326, 111. 28 Bomwlaski, ;he '8o?i;h dwarf, 11. 166.167 Borthwick, Lord, I. 40, 262, 11.383, Borthwick, Jam- 11. 383 Borthwick's Close, I. 190, 211, 242 BosweIl, Sir Alexander, 1.173.182, 88, 92, 186 '7'1 '84 pany, Leith, 111. 91. 236 11. 78, 7% Ill. 348 2x39 243.258 101, 18% 299911. 66, 143 255 339 ifs9 ; Lord hlacaulay s :pinion 01 his father and mother, 'jq; o n.wn's visit to Edinburgh, I. z 9, IIL.57, 291, 35a Bormll Raj, Wardte, Ill. 308 Boswell's Court, I. Botanical gardenq, %e, I. 362,363, Bothwell, Earfs of,' I. 94 122, 168, Bo=vell, Jam=, I. 6 8 3 , 97, 98, 99, 111. 159, 161 162 163 196, 106, m7, 209, 2 1 0 ~ 2 4 ~ ~ 258, 259, 266, 276, 298, 3741 11. 61, 71, 72 111. 3 6,7, 52, 6 1 , ~ ~ 174, 33; ; Lord fi arnlefs murder 111. 3-7 * marruge of Queen kary to the Earl of, I. 219. 11. 71, 262; how Bothwell attracted the Queen's notice, 11. 102 Rothwell, Adam, Bishop of Orkney, I. 116, q, 11. 48, 49, 71, 181, 111. 35, 98 Bothwell, ohn Lord, 11. 49 Hothwell, Air Francis, 111. 35 Hothwell, ohn I 47 158 Hothwell AichArd, PAvost of Kirk- Bothwell of Glencorse, Henry, I. pa Bothwell Bridge, 11. 39, 87. 375 Bottle House Company, Leith, 111. Bough, Samuel, the artist, 11. 86, Boulder, Gigantic, 11. 312 Bourse, The, Leith, 111. 231; its other names, ib. Bower, the historian of Edinburgh University, 111. 8, 9. 10. 11, 16, of-Fielh, 111. 2 239 Ill. 68 . . 18 19, 308 BokFoot, The, 11. 13' Rowfoot Well. I. 310 11. 233 Bowles, Caroline, 11.'- Boyd, Lord, 111. 174, 180 Boyd Sir Thomas nmtewn, Lord Bo d, J o k , Slaubhter of'the ruf- PrdVOSt 11. 284 i11.88 288 Ln. 11. a 4 4 $1, 4 ,'326, a;i, 347, fi.- . "Braid dugh Somewilk of the Writes " 1. 315, 16 Braid, L i r d of, IIt. 49 Braid The river 111. 143, 322 Braid'Village o< 111. to, 113 ;ex* c d o n near, 1iI. 40; its historical asxiations, 111. 41 Braid's Row 111. 75 Braidsbum, 'I. 326, 111. 49, 61, 327 Brand, Sir Alexander, I. m3, 378, Brandof Baberton, Alexander, 111. Brandfield P h 11.218 Brandfield Stree; 11. ar Braxfield, Lord, i, 173, 11. 152,153, Bread. Sale of. determined bv law. 11.21 334 339 . . 11.;80 ' Brea&lbe Earlof 1.378 I11 146 Breadalbani Marqkis of,'II.'86; Breadalbme Stdet. Leith. 111. ax. Marchion& of 11. zog . . _ _ 236 II.84,111.2 9 Breakwater,TheNewhaven III.303 Bremner, David, 1. 283, 384, Brewers, The &inburgh, 11. 68 Brewster, Sir David, 1.379,II. 140, f57,III. q, 242: statueof 111.24 Brilxs, Acceptance of, by'judgea and others, 1. 163, 164, 167,169 Brickfield, 111. 144 Bridewell, The, 11. 106, IT Bridge-end, 111. 58 Bridges, Sir Egerton, I. 273 Bridges David, cloth merchnot, Bright, John, M.P., 11. 284 Brighton Chapel, 11. 326 Brighton Place, Portobello 111.148 Hrlsbane, Sir T., Father d 11. 199 Bristo, 11. 135, 267, w, Ilt. 94 Bristo Park 11. 326 Bristo Port,'I. 38, 11. 234, 267, 316, T3t.3249 325, 3 4 '32% 3Pp 379, Brisro Street, I. 335, 11. 326.327, I. I ~ ' - I I O ; his wife, I. 110 11. 94, 156 British Convention, The, 11. 236 ; British Linen Company, I. a79.280, 11s governors and patrons, 1. 279 British Linen Co.'s Bank, Edinburgh 11 170 171, 172; at Leith'III'z38 '23 British h e ; Hail, &nongate, 11. 31, 33, 83 xilure of its members, id. 355, 11. 33, 93, '731 '74, 111.344; Broadstairs House, Causewayside, Broad Wknd, Leith, 111. 167, 210, 111. 50 "52 236,238 Brodie, Deacon, Robberies cammitted by, I. 1 1 s r 1 5 * 116. 217, 11.23, Ill. 3t7: lantein and keys used by I. 115 : execution of, 1. 1x5 ; herview between Bmdie and Smith, 1. * 117; his method of robbery 11. 23 Brodie William the sculptor, I. 159, Brodie s klos; 1.112 Brwke, Gnsdvus V., the actor, I. 357 Brwm Stock of, I. 377 Bmugham, Lord, I. 166, 379, 11. i11 113 157 I 287, 292.347, 111: y :his b k a a c e , I. 168; his mother, I. 168, 242 ; burial-place nfhisfathcr,lII. 131 ; his statue, 1. I59 Bmughton, 1.335,II.3,191,III. 151 Broughton, Barony of, 11. I& 185, 186, 366,111. 83 86 I Bmughton Hum in 1850, 184 Broughton Hall, Ill. 88, * 93 Broughton Loan, 11. E+ 115, 176, Broughton Park, 111. 88 Broughton Place, 11. 183, 184 Broughton Street, 11. 178, 179, 183, 11. ;30 155 ill. 68,101 I&, 186, 188 184 Broughtan T o l b t h , The, 11. * 181 Broughton loll, 111. 95 Bronnga, John, the Nevhaven Brown CaGt. Sir ?&uel, 111. 303 Brown: George, the builder, 11. 2% B m . Thomas. architect. 11. IOI hsherman 111. 5 p 6 ~ m m ; Rev. Alexander, irr. 75- Brown, Rev. Dr., 111. 51 Brown Square, 1. g1.11.260,268, 269, 274 =71r 339 Broww, Dr. James, I. 190, 339,II. 1 4 314, 111. 79 Browne Dr. Thomas, 11.395 Browndll, Williim, the naval adventurer, I I I . I ~ , Rrownhill, the builder, 1. 98 Brown's Chapel (Or. John), Rose Street, 11. 15 , 184 Brown's close 1. 8: p Brown's taveA, Lkkgate Leith 111. 914 ; singular tragedy in, ib: Browns of Greenbank, The, I. go Hruce Lord 11. 354 Bruce: Sir hiichael 11. 168 BNC~ of Balcaskd and Kinross, Sir William architect of Holyrood Palace'l. 336 11. 74, 367 Bruce. Robe;. Lord Kennrtt. 11. 242 Rruce, Robert, sword of, 111. 355 Hruce Lady 111. 158 nruce'of RiAng's mansion, I. 2-4 Bruce of Kinnaird, the traveller, 1. 247, 111,162 Brucr of Kinloss, Lady, 11. 257 Rruce of Powfoulis Mrs 11. 16a Bruce Michael, th: Sco;;ish Kirke White, 111. 219 B ~ c e ' s Close, I. 223 Brunstane, 11. 34 Hrunstane Rum 111. 149 Brunstane, Laid of, 111. 150 Brunstane manor-house, 111. 149, 1509 Tl579.366 Brunsmck btmt, 111. 81 Hruntan Dr. I. 79 111. 83 Brunton'Pla& 191. Bruntsfield Links, 11. 115,137, 222, 313, 348, 111. q~ 34 31, 33, 43 ; the avenue 111. '33 Bruntsfield dr Warrender House, Bryce, David, thearchitect, 11. 95, 97, 154 174 210, 359, 111. 82 Rryce John architect 11. 359 Brysoh Rodert 1.37; Yuccle;ch, D&s of, 11. 21, 86, 211, 9 3 , 318, 358, 111. 198, 2x9, d37 265, 270, F, 30% 311, 3r4 ; Duchessof 11.115 Bucckuch, Hemy Duke of, 11. 310 Buccleuch Lady of 1. z06 Buccleuch'Free ChArch, 11. 346 Buccleuch Place, 11. 148, a68, 347, Bucckoch Street, II. 339 111. 45,46, *48, Ill. '25 Buchan, Earl of, 1. 34, 11. 8 6 , s ~ 1% 2% 339, 111. 2s 123, 1% 180, 314 Buchanaii, George, I. 16, 143, 167, 206, ~ 5 . *4, 11. 67. 127. 363 111. 14 179, 19. -1, 998,363. memorial window in new Greyfriars Church, 11. 379 Bnchanan, lk. k'raocis, botanist, 111. 1-52 Buchanan of Auchintorlie, 11.159 Buchanan Street, 111. 15 Buckingham Tenace, 119. 67 Bnckstane The 111. 342 Buildings 'in Edinburgh, Ancient laws regulating the I. rl Bull, Capture of Sir 'Stephen, 111. Bullock, William ; his plan for the re-capture of Edinburgh Castle, 202 I. 25, 26. Bunker's Hill, I. $6 Burdiehoux, 111. 342; fossil dLcoveries near, id. . Burdiehouse Burn 111. 322, 339 Burgess Close, Leith, 111.164 167. Burgh Loch,The, 11. zgc, 346, 347, Burg Loch Brewery, 11.349 Burphmuir. The. 1. U. ~ O A . ?I& 227, 232, 234, 249 * q 9 , 354 33r 326, >a3, iiL;; 35 170 342; muster of troops udder jam- 111. and James IV., Ill. 28. the k - s c a n e , 111.~8, * z g ; :dud in 17za, 111. p; Valleyfield House and Leven Ledge, id.; Barclay Freechurch, 76.; Hruntsfield Links and the Golf clubs, ib. ; Gillespie's Hospital, 111. & *37: M e r c h w Castle, ILI. 9% P**r 26 Burghmuir, Dlstrict of the, 111. q -y ; battle of the (see Battles) Burghmuir-head mad, 111. 38; thc Free Church, i6. Burial-ground, The first, in =inburgh, I. 149 Burials under church porticoes, 11. 247 Burke and Hare, the murderers L Im, 11. 226-230, Ill. 27 Burleigh Lord 1.127 ; escape from the l.oiboot$ ib. Burn, Willkm the architect, 11. 171, 111. 34 b8 85 255 Burnet, Jamei oith: TownGuud. 11.311 Burnet, Sir Thomas, 11. 147 Burnet of Monboddo, Miss, I. iq. 111.42 Burney, Dr the musician 11. zg Burning of'ihe Pope in ;figy by the Universitystudents, 111. II- 13. 57 Burns, Robert, I. 3,106, 107, 11g. IW 154 171, 178, 17% 232,236. I Y, 159, 187, 188, wl 27, 333 2397 348, 366, 11. p4 27. 307 3% 191. 42, 55, 161, 352 ; Ftxman s statne of, 11.88, 110; Nasmyth's y t r a i t of, 11. @ ; monument of, 1. 11% *IIZ; bust by Brodi, 11. 110: head Or, 11. 127 Bums' centenary The first 11.150 Burns, Colonel W. Nicol, &e poet's son 11. Sg Burn:, Miss, and Bailie Crcech, II. ' Bnrniisland, I. 58,111.180, 188,191, 158, 159 211,314 Burtou, Ur. John Hill, I. 98, 111. 42, 43; his literary work.. 111. ' 43 able article, 11. 219 86,111. 13: Butcher meat formerly an unsale- Bute, Earl of, 1. 164, 179, 272, 11. Bute, Marquis of, 11. 346 Bute's Battery, 1. 78 Butler, John, the king's carpenter, Butter Tron, The, I. 50, thtters of F'itlochry, %'Le, 11. 11. 136 5 218 143 Byres, Sir John, I. 153, 219, 11-GENERAL INDEX. 371 Black Watch, 11. 89, 138, 149, 179. Black Wigs ClLb, 111. 123 Blackwood, Hnilie, 111. 15 Blackwood, William, I. 157, 291, 11. 139, 141, 142 ; the saloon in his establinhment, 11. * 141 ; his rrsidence, 111. 50 BfacA-wood's Mapasiw, 1. 339, 11. 322, 111. 195 288 23; ;Fa# ;2; ;7;g; 1.g WirZtors 11.140 IIP. 74 Blair,' Sir Jdmes Hunter, Lord Provost, I. 179, 373, 376, 11. 283, 111. 89 Blair of Avontoun. Lord President. 236, 2 , II:27, 29, 120, 161, 271, Blair Street, I. 245, 376, 11. 231, Blarquhan Laird of 111. 36 BIair's Cl&, I. 65. & 11. 329 ;the Duke of Gordon's house, 1. *p Blairs of Balthayock, Tom-house ofthe 11. 139 Blanc, kippolyte J., architect, 111. 38 Bland, the comedian, I. 342, 343 Blaw Wearie 111. 305 Bkis-sifwr, ?he gratuity, 11. 290, 383, 119. 45, 1 3 6 ~ 2 ~ Zj8,III. I 291 Blew Stone The I. 79 Blind Schdl, Cdigmillar, 11. 336 Blockhouse of St. Anthony. Leith. 111. 222, "23 J'Blue Blanket," The, I. 34, '36, 43, 11. 262, 278, 111. 55 Blumenreich, Herr, 111.88 Blyth's Close, 1. ga, 111. 66 Bmk's Land, West Port, I. 224 Boar Club The 111. IW Board of Manuiactnres, 11. 8 3 4 6 , Body-snatchers Early 11. 1.w B o ~ l l y , R o d n ci& near, 111. Bo%l?yTower 111. 326 "328 Bonham, Sir Galter. II.'57 Bonkel Sir Edward I. 304 Bonnet'birds' club', 111.123 Bonnet-makers The 11. 265 Bonnington, n&r Le'ith, 11.~5,III. W. ,306 ; view in, 111. * 96 Bonntngton House, 111. 88, 91, *93, 147 Bonnington Mill, 111. 90, 247 Bonniugton Road, l I I . 8 8 , 1 2 8 , 1 ~ , Bonnington Sugar-refining Com- Bonnyhaugh 111.90 gr Bordeaux, &c de,Hr Holyrood, Boreland homas the pcssessor of the k&g$ stable, 11. 225; his house I. * 80 1I.a25,n6 Bore-s&e or hare-stone, The, I. 326, 111. 28 Bomwlaski, ;he '8o?i;h dwarf, 11. 166.167 Borthwick, Lord, I. 40, 262, 11.383, Borthwick, Jam- 11. 383 Borthwick's Close, I. 190, 211, 242 BosweIl, Sir Alexander, 1.173.182, 88, 92, 186 '7'1 '84 pany, Leith, 111. 91. 236 11. 78, 7% Ill. 348 2x39 243.258 101, 18% 299911. 66, 143 255 339 ifs9 ; Lord hlacaulay s :pinion 01 his father and mother, 'jq; o n.wn's visit to Edinburgh, I. z 9, IIL.57, 291, 35a Bormll Raj, Wardte, Ill. 308 Boswell's Court, I. Botanical gardenq, %e, I. 362,363, Bothwell, Earfs of,' I. 94 122, 168, Bo=vell, Jam=, I. 6 8 3 , 97, 98, 99, 111. 159, 161 162 163 196, 106, m7, 209, 2 1 0 ~ 2 4 ~ ~ 258, 259, 266, 276, 298, 3741 11. 61, 71, 72 111. 3 6,7, 52, 6 1 , ~ ~ 174, 33; ; Lord fi arnlefs murder 111. 3-7 * marruge of Queen kary to the Earl of, I. 219. 11. 71, 262; how Bothwell attracted the Queen's notice, 11. 102 Rothwell, Adam, Bishop of Orkney, I. 116, q, 11. 48, 49, 71, 181, 111. 35, 98 Bothwell, ohn Lord, 11. 49 Hothwell, Air Francis, 111. 35 Hothwell, ohn I 47 158 Hothwell AichArd, PAvost of Kirk- Bothwell of Glencorse, Henry, I. pa Bothwell Bridge, 11. 39, 87. 375 Bottle House Company, Leith, 111. Bough, Samuel, the artist, 11. 86, Boulder, Gigantic, 11. 312 Bourse, The, Leith, 111. 231; its other names, ib. Bower, the historian of Edinburgh University, 111. 8, 9. 10. 11, 16, of-Fielh, 111. 2 239 Ill. 68 . . 18 19, 308 BokFoot, The, 11. 13' Rowfoot Well. I. 310 11. 233 Bowles, Caroline, 11.'- Boyd, Lord, 111. 174, 180 Boyd Sir Thomas nmtewn, Lord Bo d, J o k , Slaubhter of'the ruf- PrdVOSt 11. 284 i11.88 288 Ln. 11. a 4 4 $1, 4 ,'326, a;i, 347, fi.- . "Braid dugh Somewilk of the Writes " 1. 315, 16 Braid, L i r d of, IIt. 49 Braid The river 111. 143, 322 Braid'Village o< 111. to, 113 ;ex* c d o n near, 1iI. 40; its historical asxiations, 111. 41 Braid's Row 111. 75 Braidsbum, 'I. 326, 111. 49, 61, 327 Brand, Sir Alexander, I. m3, 378, Brandof Baberton, Alexander, 111. Brandfield P h 11.218 Brandfield Stree; 11. ar Braxfield, Lord, i, 173, 11. 152,153, Bread. Sale of. determined bv law. 11.21 334 339 . . 11.;80 ' Brea&lbe Earlof 1.378 I11 146 Breadalbani Marqkis of,'II.'86; Breadalbme Stdet. Leith. 111. ax. Marchion& of 11. zog . . _ _ 236 II.84,111.2 9 Breakwater,TheNewhaven III.303 Bremner, David, 1. 283, 384, Brewers, The &inburgh, 11. 68 Brewster, Sir David, 1.379,II. 140, f57,III. q, 242: statueof 111.24 Brilxs, Acceptance of, by'judgea and others, 1. 163, 164, 167,169 Brickfield, 111. 144 Bridewell, The, 11. 106, IT Bridge-end, 111. 58 Bridges, Sir Egerton, I. 273 Bridges David, cloth merchnot, Bright, John, M.P., 11. 284 Brighton Chapel, 11. 326 Brighton Place, Portobello 111.148 Hrlsbane, Sir T., Father d 11. 199 Bristo, 11. 135, 267, w, Ilt. 94 Bristo Park 11. 326 Bristo Port,'I. 38, 11. 234, 267, 316, T3t.3249 325, 3 4 '32% 3Pp 379, Brisro Street, I. 335, 11. 326.327, I. I ~ ' - I I O ; his wife, I. 110 11. 94, 156 British Convention, The, 11. 236 ; British Linen Company, I. a79.280, 11s governors and patrons, 1. 279 British Linen Co.'s Bank, Edinburgh 11 170 171, 172; at Leith'III'z38 '23 British h e ; Hail, &nongate, 11. 31, 33, 83 xilure of its members, id. 355, 11. 33, 93, '731 '74, 111.344; Broadstairs House, Causewayside, Broad Wknd, Leith, 111. 167, 210, 111. 50 "52 236,238 Brodie, Deacon, Robberies cammitted by, I. 1 1 s r 1 5 * 116. 217, 11.23, Ill. 3t7: lantein and keys used by I. 115 : execution of, 1. 1x5 ; herview between Bmdie and Smith, 1. * 117; his method of robbery 11. 23 Brodie William the sculptor, I. 159, Brodie s klos; 1.112 Brwke, Gnsdvus V., the actor, I. 357 Brwm Stock of, I. 377 Bmugham, Lord, I. 166, 379, 11. i11 113 157 I 287, 292.347, 111: y :his b k a a c e , I. 168; his mother, I. 168, 242 ; burial-place nfhisfathcr,lII. 131 ; his statue, 1. I59 Bmughton, 1.335,II.3,191,III. 151 Broughton, Barony of, 11. I& 185, 186, 366,111. 83 86 I Bmughton Hum in 1850, 184 Broughton Hall, Ill. 88, * 93 Broughton Loan, 11. E+ 115, 176, Broughton Park, 111. 88 Broughton Place, 11. 183, 184 Broughton Street, 11. 178, 179, 183, 11. ;30 155 ill. 68,101 I&, 186, 188 184 Broughtan T o l b t h , The, 11. * 181 Broughton loll, 111. 95 Bronnga, John, the Nevhaven Brown CaGt. Sir ?&uel, 111. 303 Brown: George, the builder, 11. 2% B m . Thomas. architect. 11. IOI hsherman 111. 5 p 6 ~ m m ; Rev. Alexander, irr. 75- Brown, Rev. Dr., 111. 51 Brown Square, 1. g1.11.260,268, 269, 274 =71r 339 Broww, Dr. James, I. 190, 339,II. 1 4 314, 111. 79 Browne Dr. Thomas, 11.395 Browndll, Williim, the naval adventurer, I I I . I ~ , Rrownhill, the builder, 1. 98 Brown's Chapel (Or. John), Rose Street, 11. 15 , 184 Brown's close 1. 8: p Brown's taveA, Lkkgate Leith 111. 914 ; singular tragedy in, ib: Browns of Greenbank, The, I. go Hruce Lord 11. 354 Bruce: Sir hiichael 11. 168 BNC~ of Balcaskd and Kinross, Sir William architect of Holyrood Palace'l. 336 11. 74, 367 Bruce. Robe;. Lord Kennrtt. 11. 242 Rruce, Robert, sword of, 111. 355 Hruce Lady 111. 158 nruce'of RiAng's mansion, I. 2-4 Bruce of Kinnaird, the traveller, 1. 247, 111,162 Brucr of Kinloss, Lady, 11. 257 Rruce of Powfoulis Mrs 11. 16a Bruce Michael, th: Sco;;ish Kirke White, 111. 219 B ~ c e ' s Close, I. 223 Brunstane, 11. 34 Hrunstane Rum 111. 149 Brunstane, Laid of, 111. 150 Brunstane manor-house, 111. 149, 1509 Tl579.366 Brunsmck btmt, 111. 81 Hruntan Dr. I. 79 111. 83 Brunton'Pla& 191. Bruntsfield Links, 11. 115,137, 222, 313, 348, 111. q~ 34 31, 33, 43 ; the avenue 111. '33 Bruntsfield dr Warrender House, Bryce, David, thearchitect, 11. 95, 97, 154 174 210, 359, 111. 82 Rryce John architect 11. 359 Brysoh Rodert 1.37; Yuccle;ch, D&s of, 11. 21, 86, 211, 9 3 , 318, 358, 111. 198, 2x9, d37 265, 270, F, 30% 311, 3r4 ; Duchessof 11.115 Bucckuch, Hemy Duke of, 11. 310 Buccleuch Lady of 1. z06 Buccleuch'Free ChArch, 11. 346 Buccleuch Place, 11. 148, a68, 347, Bucckoch Street, II. 339 111. 45,46, *48, Ill. '25 Buchan, Earl of, 1. 34, 11. 8 6 , s ~ 1% 2% 339, 111. 2s 123, 1% 180, 314 Buchanaii, George, I. 16, 143, 167, 206, ~ 5 . *4, 11. 67. 127. 363 111. 14 179, 19. -1, 998,363. memorial window in new Greyfriars Church, 11. 379 Bnchanan, lk. k'raocis, botanist, 111. 1-52 Buchanan of Auchintorlie, 11.159 Buchanan Street, 111. 15 Buckingham Tenace, 119. 67 Bnckstane The 111. 342 Buildings 'in Edinburgh, Ancient laws regulating the I. rl Bull, Capture of Sir 'Stephen, 111. Bullock, William ; his plan for the re-capture of Edinburgh Castle, 202 I. 25, 26. Bunker's Hill, I. $6 Burdiehoux, 111. 342; fossil dLcoveries near, id. . Burdiehouse Burn 111. 322, 339 Burgess Close, Leith, 111.164 167. Burgh Loch,The, 11. zgc, 346, 347, Burg Loch Brewery, 11.349 Burphmuir. The. 1. U. ~ O A . ?I& 227, 232, 234, 249 * q 9 , 354 33r 326, >a3, iiL;; 35 170 342; muster of troops udder jam- 111. and James IV., Ill. 28. the k - s c a n e , 111.~8, * z g ; :dud in 17za, 111. p; Valleyfield House and Leven Ledge, id.; Barclay Freechurch, 76.; Hruntsfield Links and the Golf clubs, ib. ; Gillespie's Hospital, 111. & *37: M e r c h w Castle, ILI. 9% P**r 26 Burghmuir, Dlstrict of the, 111. q -y ; battle of the (see Battles) Burghmuir-head mad, 111. 38; thc Free Church, i6. Burial-ground, The first, in =inburgh, I. 149 Burials under church porticoes, 11. 247 Burke and Hare, the murderers L Im, 11. 226-230, Ill. 27 Burleigh Lord 1.127 ; escape from the l.oiboot$ ib. Burn, Willkm the architect, 11. 171, 111. 34 b8 85 255 Burnet, Jamei oith: TownGuud. 11.311 Burnet, Sir Thomas, 11. 147 Burnet of Monboddo, Miss, I. iq. 111.42 Burney, Dr the musician 11. zg Burning of'ihe Pope in ;figy by the Universitystudents, 111. II- 13. 57 Burns, Robert, I. 3,106, 107, 11g. IW 154 171, 178, 17% 232,236. I Y, 159, 187, 188, wl 27, 333 2397 348, 366, 11. p4 27. 307 3% 191. 42, 55, 161, 352 ; Ftxman s statne of, 11.88, 110; Nasmyth's y t r a i t of, 11. @ ; monument of, 1. 11% *IIZ; bust by Brodi, 11. 110: head Or, 11. 127 Bums' centenary The first 11.150 Burns, Colonel W. Nicol, &e poet's son 11. Sg Burn:, Miss, and Bailie Crcech, II. ' Bnrniisland, I. 58,111.180, 188,191, 158, 159 211,314 Burtou, Ur. John Hill, I. 98, 111. 42, 43; his literary work.. 111. ' 43 able article, 11. 219 86,111. 13: Butcher meat formerly an unsale- Bute, Earl of, 1. 164, 179, 272, 11. Bute, Marquis of, 11. 346 Bute's Battery, 1. 78 Butler, John, the king's carpenter, Butter Tron, The, I. 50, thtters of F'itlochry, %'Le, 11. 11. 136 5 218 143 Byres, Sir John, I. 153, 219, 11- ... INDEX. 371 Black Watch, 11. 89, 138, 149, 179. Black Wigs ClLb, 111. 123 Blackwood, Hnilie, 111. ...

Vol. 6  p. 371 (Rel. 0.21)

GENERAL INDEX. Abbey Church, I-IoIyod, 11. 28, I; west front of, 11. 53, mass celebrated there, 11. 59; ruins of the Abbey Church, ib. Abbey Close 11. 27,$8 Abbey Cow;-house he, 11. II Abbey Hill, 11. 30,’41.309, 111. 90, Abbey Port, The, 11. *64 Abbey-strand The 11. 2 “Abbot,” &ne oithe, 11. 35 Abbots of Cambuskenneth Townhouseofthe, I. 118, 119, ;53 Abbots of Holyrood 11. 3, 4649, 6 III. 41,132.29’7 Abbots of Melrose, Town-house of the, I. 253. *256 Abercorn, Duke of IT. 123, 317~ 111.150 ; CounteL of, I. 127 Abercorn Street, 111. 147 Abercrombie Lord 1. l a r 15g,297 Abercrombie: Sir kalph,’II. 199, Abercrombie, the military historian, 11. 234, 111. 199, ZOI Abercrombie, Dr. John, physician, 11. 187 ; curious story of his death ib. Aberndmbie Place, 11. 158, 194 Abercromby, Sir Robert, 111. 158 Aberdeen, Earl of, 11. 157 ; Coun- Aberdour, Lord. 111. ZF Aberlad Bay, I. 154, 111. 292 Abernetxy Bishop 111. 354, 355 Aberneth;family, ?he, Ill. 354 Aberneth of Saltoun, Sir Law- Aberuchill, Lord, I. 116 Aboyne. Earl of, 11.27, rW, 111.735 Academy, The Edinburgh, 111. * 84, 85 ; the first in Edinburgh, 11. 120 Accident at Lord Eldin’s sale, 11. 187 Accountant-General The 11. 281 Acheson Sir Archibald,’ 11. 27; Adam, Bishop ofOrkney, 11. 132 Adam. Robert architect, I. 367, Adad, Williak, a;chit;ct, +omb 02 I1 81 Adam, br. Alexander, 11. 168, 292, W. 296 295. (197. 30, 346,111. 135, I 6 his frugalf7are. 111. r35 Adam, b i d Chief Commissioner, I. 375 Adam, Right Hon. William, I T . 174 Adam’s design for St. Fcorge’s $Fyph, Charlotte Square, 11. -45, 148, 54, 58, 69; *7? III. 127, 128, 16 j 339. 111.138 tess of, 11. 21, 335 rence, $1.354 lintel &er his door, * ib. 379 IT.105 iO6 147 172 111. 2 Adaz-Square, I. *377,379,380,11. -4dam Street, 11. 330 Adamson Principal, 111. 27 Adamsonlot Craigcrook, 111. 107 Adelphi Theatre, Leith Walk, I. 51, 11. 1% Advocates’ Close, I. 222, 223, * 225, 11. 82 111. 3’ Advoca;es, Faculty of, I. 158, 166, 167, 222, 363, 11. 123, 163, 173, 270, 321,348, 3633 111. 91. 103 Advocates’ Library, 1. IZ% 123, 371, 11. z+g, 314, 382, 111. 131 rdrnns, I. xa3, 111. 363 274, 311, 111. 39 . 216, a30, 297, 3’10; its lib: Brulapian Club The, 111. 124 Agnew Sir Andiew, 11. 168, 271, Agnew of Lochnaw, Lady, 11. 346 Agricultural improvers, 11. 348 Aikenhead, David, Provost, I. 198 Aikman, the painter, 11. 90; view Aikman’s Close, 11. 242 Ainslie, Sir Philip, 11. 18, 170, 111. 307. Ainslie, the architect, 111. 158 ; h~ plan of the New Town, 11. *189; his plan of Leith 111. *log Ainslie Place, 11.~200, *mI, 205, 206, zp7,III. 70 Aird, William, minister ofSt. Cuth- Airth, Earl of, 11. 41 Airth, Laird of, I. 194 Aitchimn, master of the Mint, I. 266 Alan Napier’s land, 111. 235 Albany, The Regent, 11.62, 251 Albany, Dukes of, I. ~7~ 32, 34, 38, 39, 40, 42. *44r 97, 1679 11. 23, 9, 40, 222, 111. 59, 200, 298 Altany, Chapel and arms of the Duke of, in St. Giles’s Cathedral, I. 142 Albany, Darnley Duke of, 11. 68 Albany, Escape from prison of the Duke of, I. 33, 34, 111. 59 Albany Row, 11. 190 Albany Street, 11. 183, 184, 185, Albany Street, North Leith. 111. 111. ;o by, 111. sa bert’s Church, 11. 131, 132 1 9 0 1 191 235 - Albert Dock, Leith, 111. 245, * 285, Albert Institute of the Fine Arts, AIk<?ast public acts of Prince, Albert Memonaf , Charlotte Square, 11. 175 *17 , 284 Albert Piace, III. 74 Albert Street, 111. 159 AlbydClub, The, 11. ‘75 Albyn Place, 11. zm,,q “Albyn’s Anthology 111. 127 Alemore, Lord, 111.’13~ Alesse Alexander 11. 239 AlexaAder Lord df the Isles, 11.54 Alexander) II., I. 258, 11. 285, Alexandir III., I. a3, 78, 11. 47, 111. 164 Alexander Le Grand, 111. I Alexander, Sir William. Earl of Stirling, 11. 27 Alexander, William, Lord Provost, 11. 281 Alexander Hayes’ Close, k i t h , 111. 2 0. its Bath stove for medicinaf Grpses, ih. Alison family, The, 11. 126, 194 Alison, Sir Archibald, 11. 194, 19s Alison, Rev. Archibald, 11. 140. Alison Square, 11. 327, 332 Allan, Sir Williarn, I. 1x0, 11. 26, Allan CunniAgham, I. 107 Allan, David, the painter, I. 253, Allan Captain Thomas 11. 159 Allan’ Ramsay, I. 82, 63, 86. 154, 286, 287, 288 I. 358, 11. 27 111.58 274,343,362 156.158, 188,190, ‘943 247 91,gz. 196 111. 74, 79, 84 11. 30, 111. 68 181, *zoB, 210, 233,238,378,II. 1% 23, 127, 128, 130, 143. 35% 111. 154. Wodrow’s opinion of his literary productions, I. 154 ; vexatious legal hindrances I. 155, 210, 239; hisshopandcuslomers, I. 155. * 209 ; his statue, 11. 128, * r30 ; his son, I. 83: 182, 11. go; his house, 1. * 89 ; his daughter’s fondness for cat*, 11. 18 Allermuir Hill. 111. 124 318 Alston, Dr., the botanist 1. 363 Alston, lony, the actor ’I¶. 23 Alva, Lord, I. 132,237 ;’his daughter and Lord Lovat, I. 237; his stepdaughters, ib. Alvanley, Lord, 111. 46 ilvanley Street, 111. 46 Ambrose’s lavern,” 11. 171, 182 Amory, Captain. 111. 140, 141 Anatomy, First Professor of, 111.15 Anchor Close, I. 235. 282, 283 Anchorfield Burn, 111. 306 Ancient manners, Last trace of, 11. Amrum, Battle of(rec Battles) Ancrum family, The, I. 210, 11. 39 Ancrum, Lord, 11. 120 Anderaon, Andrew, the king’s Andersoii, Dr. James 111. 335-337 Anderson, thearchire&, II.185,35e Andenon the sculptor, 11. 207 Anderson: Wm., theauthor, 11.187 Anderson’s Leith stage-coach, 111: 152 154 And&son’s Pills I. 5 Andrew General, !?ad of Teviot, 111. 26 Andrews, James, the last prisonei hung in the Grassmarket, 11.231 Anedo Tremamondo. or Aneelu. IZO printer, 11. 256 Ann Streei I. 33b Annabella ‘Drummond, queen 01 Robert III., I. 27,II. So, 111. 354 Annand, Sir David I 24 25. ‘97 Annandale, Earl o( 1: 66’ Anne of Denmark, I. 175, 193, 266, 11.222. 280. 16r. III.1.80.214.21c , .. Anne, Queen,-Iy. 352. 353 ; pm Anne Street, 11. 92, 155, 156, 199, clamation of, I. 203, 11. 281 111. 719 7% 73. 74 Anstruther, John, advocate, 11. 27c Anstruther, Lady Betty, 11. 18 Anstruther of Anstrutherfield, Su Antemarkm Club The, 111.125 Anti-burghermee;ing-house, II.33t Antiquarian Museum, I. azg, 23q Antiquarik room, Register H o e , Philip 11. 270 !az, II. 83, zra, 241,282, 347; 11. 217 258 I. *.fiR “ Antiiiary ” The, 11. 35 Antiquaries,’ Society of, I. 119, I1 86, 1039 ‘54. 1% 162, 1952 239 2%; contents of, 11. 87 “Apprentice’s Pillar,” The, Roslir cbd, 111. 3508 *353 trbuthnot, Sir William, Lord Pro. v a t I. 380, 11. 126 283 Zrbuthnot, John Viscbunt, 11.166 kbuthnot, Lord, 11. 31 krbuthnot of Haddo 11. 284 krbuthnot, Robert h a u n t , 111. go; his foster-brother, ib. hcades, The first, in Edinburgh, 11. 12; ‘Archeeologia Scotica,” I. 56, 79 trchbishop of St. Andrews, 1. 253, 11. Z t i A Sr~hb~<oop’s Palace, The, I. 262, 263, 264 ; eminent residents in the, 11. 246, 251 kchers’ Hall, 11. q z , 349, 2352, 354. dininghall of the 11. 353 4rche;s, Royal Companybf, 11.348, bckers oithe Guaid, 111. 6, 7 krchibald Bell-the-Cat 11. 279 Brchibald, Duke of A&yle, 11. 34, krchibald Duke of Douglas, I. IOI Archibald: Earl of Angus, I. *37, 4rchibald Place, 11. 363 4rdmi lan Lord 11. 174. 111. 3“. 4rdmitlan’Terra;e, 11. zrg 4rdshie1, the chieftan, I. 325 4rgyle Battery 1. 331 Argyle Bishop‘of 111. 4 Argyle: Countess’o!, I. 49, 59, II. Argyle, Duke of, 11.75.86, r39.192, 316, 111. 63, 1x1, 124, 146, 191, 353. 354 111. 208 2 9 111.150 126, 11. 8, 251, 279 58, 70 i92, 311 Argyle, Earl of, I. 50, 5 6 58.6~~97, 126, 168, 170 256, 300, 11. 5, 13, 14, 101, III.’~, 4, 174, 189, 297; escape of, I. 58, 270; execution of, I. 59, 1r6, 151, 11. 15, 87, 262 Argyle and Greenwich, John Dde of I. 270 11. 271 111.311 ArGle, M&quis o t I. 56, 91, 227, Argyle House, Queen Street, 11.318 Argyle Square, 11.271,272,274, 362 Ariitocracy, Manners and customs Armadale, Lord, I. 259, 11. 253 Brmed men in law courts, I. 168 ArmsoftheCityof Edinburgh,I.* 16 Arnauld Lammius, Seal of, I. 182 &miston, Lord (sec Dundas, Robert) knot, Hugo, the historian, I. la, 192, 236, 238, 247. 251, 256, 262. 11. 31, 27a, 111. 62 of the, in 1730. I. 254 122, 135. 148, 14% 162,183, 184. 30% 3071 3% 3x8, 3387 34% 359, 364 363, 3% 371,376, 3% 11. 173 291 38, 397 5 4 59183. 94, 119, 159, ‘64 2337 247, 252, 28% 298, 3% 3O6 3% 330, 334, 3% 375. 380, 382,111. IO,II, 12,13,16 47, 541 126, 152. 162, 186, 191, 194, 215, 235, 2 6 238, 243, 263, 276, 97, 326.; k d Kames and, 11. 161; views from his “ History of Edinburgh,” I. 85,161,1g3.11. 376, 111. 48 Arran, Earls of, I. *37, 38, 39, 40, 42, 43, 195, 298, 340, 11. 64. 65. IOI, 192. a s , 279. IlJ. 2, 1%. . . .-. . . 203.204 Arson, Severe punishment or, I. 122 Art Galleries, The, 11. gz Arthur’s Seat, I. * I, a, 7, 11, 191, 11. 64 161, 303-?22, 111. 31, 56, ~ p , 143, 216 ; wew of, I. 13 ; 143 ... INDEX. Abbey Church, I-IoIyod, 11. 28, I; west front of, 11. 53, mass celebrated there, 11. 59; ...

Vol. 6  p. 369 (Rel. 0.16)

386 OLD AND NEW' EDINBURGH. 'Plague in Leith, The 111. 180,186 Plainstane's close ~ i . 235 Playfair, Dr. Lyo;, 111. 24 Playfair, Professor, 1. 339, 11.106, 1% 1p,z70' monument to,II.rro Playfaii, W. H., architect, I. 379, 11. 83 88, 97, 106, 110, 2x41 335, 111. ;3, 68, 83 Playhouse Close 11. 23 Pleasance, he, i. 38, 253,278,295. 298, 335, 382-384, 11. 3, 218 135, 240, 301, 3247 330, 337, 3383 345, 111.54 ; origin of thename, I. 382 Plewlands, The, 111. 42 Pocketsleve 111.92 PokerCluh ?he, I . ~ O , Z ~ T , I I I . I ~ ~ Police of Ehinburgh, 11. 120 Police Office, I. 242 Political unions. Illegality of the, . - - 11. 236, 237 Pollok. Robert. 11. ICO Polton Lord iII. 3;6 PolwAh d d y 11. aog Pont, dkrt, dinister of St. Cuthbert's Church 11. 131 I 2 Pont, Robert, hrovost 'o?Trinity Pontheus, John, the quack doctor, Poole's Coffee-house, 11. xza Popular songs of 1745, I. 325 Port Hopetoun, 11.~15~226 ; Edinbur h Castle from, 11. *a16 Port .ft. Nicholas, 111. 171 Portmus Captain I. 130 111.262 263 ; hHnged b;the mdb, I. 130: College, 1.305, 307 I. zoo, 201 ~. z3i, 11. 2 I, 232 Porteous john, herald painter, 111.4: Porreou~ riots I. 4 123, 128-1 I 178, 218, 3:g; h n t i n g ~f t2: 111. III .___ ._ Portland, Henrietta Duchess of, Portland,'Duke of, 111.42 Portland Place 11. zza Portobello, I. h3, 111. 138, 143- 154165; Romanroadnear I. 10, fro; view of Portobed, III. :IN, *152, *r53: plan of, 111. . 147: churchesandchawls. 111. II.rg1 111.42 - . 147; * 153 Portobello Hut. 111. IM Portobello review lhe' '111. 146 Portobello Koad '111. ;38 Portobello Sand; 111.145, Plate p Rortsburgh CO& House, 11. *=I. - 2=4 Porbburgh, The Eastern, I. 3 8 , k l p , I I . 222 224 226 227,22gr 334 33s ; anciehtly H htirgh, 11. 103 Post Office, The old, I. 274 338, *356; the new I. 340, 351, 353, *357,358.364; ;he Scottishpostal system, I. 353- 58 : itsexpenses at various periJs, I. 355,356; its posf-ten 1.354,355,39; the vanous po&office buildings, I. 358 Post Office Close, I. 358 Potato, The introducer of the, 11. p Potterrow, The, 1. p, 335,II. 135, 231, =4=r 274. 327, 330, 33% 332, Potterrow ort, 11. 257, 334 331, 111.3 Poulterer The King's 111.66 Poultry AndS. Dean,'III. 65, 66 Poultry Market The old I. 373 Powburn, The ' 11. 267 ' 111. 29 I 58; its otier names: Powburn House 111. 51 Powderhall III:88 8g *g3 Powrie, di1liaq 'ac<ornplice ot Bothwell in the murder of Darnley, 1. 263, 276, 111. 4, 6 Prayer, An ambiguous, 11. 133 Preaching Friar's Vennel, The, I. Preaching Window," Knox'r house, I. 214 3331 3 3 4 , p 345, 111. 51 81.:; ' '( p7,258 Pre-historic Edinburgh, I. 9-14 Prendergast's revenqe, 11. 52, 53 .Prentice, Henry, the introducer 01 Presbyterian Church, Re-establish. .Preston, John, Lord Fentonbams, the potato, 11. 30 ment of the, 11.246 -1.206 - Preston, Sir Michael, I. q &ton of Craigmillar Provost Sir ?reston of Craignillar. Sir Richard. Henry, 11. 242, 278,'III. 61 111.61 ?reston of Craigmillar, Provost Sir Simon, I. w, 305, 11.279.111. 58, 59, 61, 62, 107 'reston of Valleyfield, Sir Charles, 11. 26, 335 326, 330. ,331: 332. ?reston, Lieut.-General, I. 322,323. ?redon relic, bt. Giles's Cathedral, I. 140 ?restonAeld manor-house, 111. *56, 57, 58 ?restongrange, Lord, 11.242, 272, 111.10 ?restonpans, 11. 283 16,.340, 111. IM, 174, a63; the' ishermen of, 111. 300 ; battle of (see Battles) ?reston Street, 111. 50 ?retender, Defence of the, 111.194 ?rice, Sir Magnus, 1. 117 ?nestfield or Prestonfield, I. 3 2 6 3 . Primrose, Viscount, I. m3,II. 124; Primrose, Si Archibald, I. 91,111. ?rimrose Lady Dorothea, I. 257 Primus 'khe title 11. 246 Prince 'Anne of benmarks Dragoons I. 64 Prince kharley's house, Duddmgston 11. *317 Princ;Consort, The, I. 358,II. 79; memorial to, 11. 175, '77, a84 PrinceofWales, Marrageof, 11.284 Prince of Wales's Graving Dock, Leith, 111. 286, q8g 358, 3647372r 11- 93, 95, 99s 100, 14, 1x0, 114, 117, 118, 119-130, 176, 182, 191 no6, zog, ?XI, 213, 372, 383,111.'146, 295 ; view from Scott'smonument, 11.*124: view looking west, 11. * '25 hinale, Andrew Lord Haining, I. 315, III.5p Viscountess, I. 104 I06 Princes Street, I.39,a55,295, 339. 131,136, 139, 151, 163, 165, 175, 27; Pringle, Sir Walter, I. 1% Pringle, Thomas 11. 140 Pringle of Stichel, Colonel, 111.45; Printed, Number of, in Edinburgh Printing-press, The first, in Scot- Prison& of 'war in Edinburgh Privy C&ud, Imd Keeper of the, Proctor John thecartoonist,III. 82 Project' for :urprising Edinburgh Promisc;ous dancing, Presbyterian Property Investment Society, I. 123 Protestant Institute, I. zg , 11. z6a Provost of Edinburgh, Salary and privileges of the, 11. 281, 111. 270; his first appearance in official decorations, 11. 282 Provost Stewart's Land. West Bow, Lady 11. 163 in 1779, I. 318 land I. 142 255 Castle 11. a48 1. 370. 372 Castle I. 67 abhorrence of, I. 315 I. 325 Provosts of Leith, The, 111. q, Provat's Close, 11. 277 Provost's House. Kirk+f-Field, 219, zm, 270 111.3 Publicopinionin Edinburgh, Weak. ness of formerly I. 285 PuirFolks'Purses:The,I. 138, 11.6 Pulteney, Sir ames 1. 106 '' Purging *' o/ the Scottish army, Furitan g&ner,Anecdote ofa, 1.56 Pye, Sir Robert, 111. 260, 261 111. 186 187 Q Quadrangle, The, Holymod Palace, Quality Street. Leith, III.2~1,235, 11. '76 . . Q,';?ity Wynd, Rotten Row, Leith Quarry Holes, The, 11. 101, zw Queen Mary (sec Mary Stuart) 111. 173 111. 128, 133, 151 Queen Mary's Apartments, Holyrood Palace 11. 66, * 67, 74 ; h u bedchambei, ib. Queen Mary's Bath, 11. 40, 41 !&.en Mary's Bower, Moray House 11. *32 33 &een Mary's r&m Dungeon in Edinburgh Castle below, I. *ZI, ,R Q&en Mary's room, Rmeburn House, 111. 103 Queen Mary's sundial 11. 68, 73 Queen Marys tree i1. 316; her pear.tree, Mercdiston Castle, Plate 26 ; her tree at Craigmillar Castle 111. 59 *60 . Queen itreet, iI. 115, 151-158, *16o 162 175 186 18 ,194, 199, Que& d e e t Gardens, 11.185~194. &eenptreet, k i t h , III.r73,qo, Queen's Dock Leith 111. 283 285 Queen's Drivi, The, \. XI, 11.'303. ZW ;U2 d83, iI8, i72, III. 74,106 am ueen Street Hall 111. 88 231, 232 312 Brigade, 1. 286 the, Ptate 23 turret near the I. * 49, 78 11. 17 Queen's Edinburgh Rifle Volunteer Queen's Park, Volunteer review in Queen.s Post, Ancient postern and Queen's Theatre k d Opera Houl, Queen $ctoria'svisit to Edinburgh, 11. 354, 362 Queensberry, Duke of, I. 162. 164, 11. 8, 35, 38, 225, 226, 351, 111. Queensberry Duchess of I 155, 11. 37 ; herleccentric habh,.II. 38 Quernsbeny Earl of, 11. a53 Queensberry'House, Canongate, I. 1058 1'55, 327. 11. 10, 357 36, 37, 38; its present use, 11. 38 Queensberrv Lodge, 11. 38 Queensferry, I. 16, 19,II. 101. I!I. Q u e e n 2 4 Road, 11. 115,185,sm, Qneensferry Street, 11. 136 Qqhitncss John of, Provost, 11.278 Quince? +hornas de, 11. 135, 140, 246, 265,365 63,211, 306,307,314 ; theherrug fishe at 111. p 207, 111. 255 - II.74,359 R Rae Sir David 11. 26 203 ~ a e l Sir Wildm 11. ;27, III. 33c Rae: Lady, !I. &, 339 &burn, Sir Henry, I. 119, 159, a y , 384, 11. 88, go. gz, xzz,1z6, his stepdaughter, 111. 77 Hadical Road," The, 11. II I. 285 11. 188 187. 188, 111. 7lr 74, 6, 77, 140; Raeburn Place, 111.79 Railston Bishop of Dunked, 11.54 Railway;, their influence foreseen, Ramsay, Allan (see Allan Ramsay: Ramsay, Allan, the painter, 1. 83, Ramsay, Sir Alexander 11. 206 Ramsay, Sir Alexander,'Provost, I. Ramsay of Dalhousie. Sir Alex. y s Close, 11. I8 '99 ande;, I. 24, 25, 111.354, 355 Ramsay of Abbotshall, Sir Andrew. I. 311, 11. 74 ; Lord Provost, 11. ,281 Ramsay, Sir George I. 162 Ramsay, Sir John, IiI. 42 Ramsay of Balmain, Sir John, 11. Ramsay, Sir William 11. 166 Ramsay of Dalhousii, Sir W i l l i i 239 111.94 Ramsay, William, banker, 11. 362 111. 124 Ramsay, Cuthbert, I. 258 Ramsay Dean 11. 126, 205, 206 portrait of, 1;. * 128 Ramsay, Duel between Sir Georgq and Capt. Macrae, 111. 13-14, Ramsay, General John, I. 83, I1 I28 camsay, Lady, and Capt. Macrae, <amay Lady Elizabeth 111.32 Zamsay: Miss Christian,'her fondcamsay, The Misses, 111. 138 camsay Garden, I. 83, 11.82 ; view camsay Lane, 1. 87. 91 camsay Lane, Portp,bello 111. *153 <amsnpS, Peter, White Horse <am$y's Fort, Leith, 111. 171 tandolph Earl of Moray 11.47 candolph' Sir Thomas ; successful re-captlre of the Castle by, 1. 24 candolph Cliff, 111. 70,75. f'tate 28 candolph Crescent, I. 237, 11. 11.5, ZW, 2057 2071 20% 209 bnkeillor Street 11. 39 cankenion Club,'The, 11.180 lavelrig, 111. 334 tavelrig Hill, 111. 331 <avelston, I. 331, Ill. 79, 106 tavelston House 111. 106, 108 <wen's Craig ri. 307 <awdon Lad;Elizabeth, 11. 18 <ay Jdhn rectur of the high Sc~ool, Ii. 290 <eade,Charles, thenovelist, 111.303 ieay George Lord II. 272, 111.8 <ay: Lady ElLabTeth Fairlie, 12 tecord of Entails, I. 372 cedbraes manor-house, 111. 88, 89. * 93. its changes, 111. p ' !&gauhet," References to, 11. <edhallCastle, 111.313; themanor tedheughs, 'I he 111. 114,31g,33r <ed House The' 11. 330 teed. Robert. K'inp's architect. 11. 111. 139--14I ness for cats, 11. 18 from Princes Street, Pidr 17 Inn ' 1. zgg 272, 346 270 house, 11.43 R&rig, KLdS of, 111. 134, 135, Restalrig Lwh, 111. 13 Keston Lord, 11. 199 Restodtion festivals 11. 334 Restoration of Cha;les II., Popularity of the, I. 55, '59, 176, 11. 334 Restoration of James VII., Plots for the I. 66 Review dfScottish Volunteers, 1860, 11. 284.354 ; Plate 23 RevoliitionClub,The, 111. s a 3 ; i t ~ meLI, I. *63 . 168 ... OLD AND NEW' EDINBURGH. 'Plague in Leith, The 111. 180,186 Plainstane's close ~ i . ...

Vol. 6  p. 386 (Rel. 0.15)

16171,782 283, 335, 343 343 III, 140; dew of, II. 169 vanous buildings in, 11. 172; it! early residents, 11. 166 St. Andrew Street 11. I 160, 161 St. Andrew's Stree;, LeitcIII. 226 m71228 234 St. Ann, the tailors' patron saint, I. 23 St. Rnne-s altar Holyrood 11. 58 in St. Giles'sbhurch I1.'266 St. Anne's altar, St.' Cuthbert'r Church, 111. 94 St. Anne's Yard, 11. 76,79,3~3,3q St. Anthony's Chapel Arthur s Seat, I. 3 6 ; ruinsof, li. *3m *321 St. Anthony's Fire, or &ipelas, 111. 215 216 St. Anthoiy's Hermitage, I. m, 11. 303, 19, 111. 216 St. Ant%ony's Port, Leith, 111.151 SI. Anthonys preceptory, Leith, its seal, St. Anthonir Street, Leith, 111. St. Anthony's Well, 11. 312, 319, St. Anthony's Wynd,Ldth,III.z~s St. Augustine Chapel of 11.53 St. Augustine4 Church i. zgz.zg4 St. Bennet's, Greenhill,' 111. 54 SL Bernard's Chapel, 111.75 St. Bernard's Church, 111. 75 St. Bernard's Crescent, 111. 71. p, St. Bernard's parish, 11. 92, 135, St. Bernard's Row, 111. 94, 97 St. Bernard's Well, III.74,75. *76, 178, 17% 2yi, ~2 111. 131, 175, 176, 215 111. '216 217 298 "178 V a 322 73, 79,81 111.77 78 58,251. !II. 49 0s LI. #5 St. Catharine's altar, Holymod, 11. St. Cathenne of Sienna, Convenl St. Cecilii hall, I. 151, *a5z, II. St. Christopher's altar, St. Giles's St. Clair Lord 1. 16g St. Clai;of St.'Clair, General, 111. 175 Church, 11. 264, 111. a n z St. Clair of Roslin William, 11. 354 (sec sinclair dar~ William) St. colme Street '11. 105 St. Columba's Ekcooal Church. I. . * 9 5 . Church, 11. 6 3 , 264 St. Crispin's altar, St. Giles's St. Cuthbert, Bishop of Durham, 11. 13r 295 St. Cuthben's chapel of ease, 11. St. Cuthben's Church. Pkatc I. I. incumbents, 11. 131;. the old manse, 11. 132 ;demolition of the old church, 11. 134, 136 ; erection of the new building, 11. 134 ; the old and new churches, 11. 131 '133, * 136, * 137 ; burials unde: thesteeple 11. 135; theoldpoorhouse, 11.'135, 111. 83 St. Cuthbert's Free Church, 11.225 St. Cuthbert's Lane, 11. 335 St. David Street, 11. 16r, '65 St. David's Church, 11. ar6 St. Eligius, patron of the hammermen, 11.962 St. Eloi, 11. 263: carved groin stone from Chapel of, St. Giles's Church, I. * 147, 11. 262 St. Eloi's eo-. 11. 262 St. George's 'Church: Charlotte St. Georie's Episco$l chapel, 11. Square 11. 115, 126 173, 175 '90 St. Geor e's Free Church, 11. 138, St. George's Well 111. 75 St. Giles, the pation saint of Edinburgh, I. 138, 141, 254: seal of, I. * 140 ; procgsiou of the saint's relics I. 140 St. GilehChurch, 1. *I, 42,47, so, 51, 52.55, ~ 6 7 8 ~ 9 4 , IV. xm, Iax, 123, 138-147, 152, 18% 186, rga, 11. 15, 957 234, 3167 37% 111. 31, z10,115. 75 GENERAL INDEX. 51, 173, 184; its early history I. 138 139; the Norman door way, i. 139, 141' the Preston relic, I. 140; Sir DAvid Lindesaj on the rocessionists, I. 141, chapel ofsobert Duke of Albany: I. 142; funeral of the Regent Murray, I. 143; the "gude Regent's aisle," rb. ; the Assem. blyaisle, I. 144; disputes between am- VI. and the Church party, I. 144,146'departureofJamesVI. I. 146 ; Haddo's hole, ib. ; thi Napier tomb, id. ; the spire and lantern, I. '144, 146; theclock and bells, I. 146 ; the Krames, I. 147 ; restorations of 1878 ib. ; the or an, ib. ; plan of St. kiles's Churcf I. *1452 the High Church' 1. *I 8 149; removal of hone;: from f f. 384 3t. Giles's Chdchyard, I. 148, 149, 157 11. 379 31. Ghes's Grange, 111. 47, 49, 52, 54 ;, its vicar, 111. 49 3t. Giles's Kirkyard, 11. 239 3t. GilesStreethow PrincaStreet). I. 286 11. 11; 3t. Gd&s Street, Leith, 111. 223, 226 234 3t. Jimes's chapel, Newhaven, 111. 216, 295, 298, p; remains of, 3t. James'schapel,Leith, III.*240, 111. 297 243 3t. ams'sOpw=opalchapel 11.184 jt.jame~'sEp~opalChurcd,Leith, 111. *241, 243 3t. James's Square, I. 366. 11. 176, . _ _ . .~ 19. 3t, lohn the Baotist's Chaoel. 111. . . si, 53 St. John's altar, St. Giles's Church, II.26?,65 3t.John sCatholicChapel, Brighton St. Johks chapel, Burghmuir, 111. Place 111. 147 126, 134, d, 338, 383 3t. John's Established Church, I. 291 Leith 111. *n44 jt. John's Established Church, jt. Johr;'s Free Church I. z 5, 314 Zt. John's Free Church,'Leiti, 111. j t T p Hill I. 82 It. ohn's Stdet, 1. 325, 11. 2, 9, jt. Katherine of Scienna, Convent 2, 53, 329 ; ruins of, jt. Kathanne's altar, Kmk-of-Field, jt. Katharine's altar, St. Margaret's It. Katherine's chapel, Currie, 111. jt. Katherine's estate, 111. 330 it. Katharine's Place, 111. 54 it. Katharine's Thorn, 11. 363, it. Katherine's Well, Liberton, 111. 25, 26 27, 31, 111. 63 of 111. 51 IiI. *S4 ; 12 history, ib. ; seal of, 111. *55. 111. I chapel, Libaton, 111. 53 332 111.54 328, 3291 330 chapel of I 383, 384 it. Leonard, Suburb of, I. 382; it. Leonard's 'craigs, I. 75, III. 27, 142 it. Leonard's Hill, I. 55, 384, 11. 34 ; combat near, I. 383 it. Leonard's, Leith, 111. 227 it. Leonard's Kirkyard, 11.379 it. Leonards Loan, I. 383 it. Leonard's Well, 111. 89 it. Leonard's Wynd, 11. 54 it. Luke's Free Church, II.r53,.r55 it. Magdalene's Chapel, I. 240 it. Margaret, I. 16, 18, I it. Margaxet's Chapel, adinburgh Castle, I. 19, *zo, 76; chancel arch of I. *24 it. Margset'sconvent, III.45,'48 it. Margaret's Loch, 11. 319 it. Margaret's Tower, Edinburgh it. Margaret's Well, Edinburgh Cade. I. 36, 48, 78 Castle, I. 49 St. Margaret's Well, Restalrig, 11. St. LIC~ chapel &nLtarian), II. 11, 313, 111. I2 131 214 St. Mark's Episcopal chapel, Port* bello 111. 147 *153 St. M L j Magdhene chapel, New Hailes 111. 149, 366 St. M& Magdalene's Chapel, 11. 258, 261, 26a *a64' mterior 11. 264 : tabled on the walls,' 11. 262 *268 St. MkMagdalene's Hospital, 11. 26r, 262 St. Mary's Cathedral 11. 116, 211; exterior and interior, 11. *ZIZ, '213 St. Mary'sChapel, Niddry's Wynd, St. M&s Ckpel, broughton Street, I. z6z St. Mary's Church, South Leith, 111. 130, 135, 182, 196, *217,218, * z ~ o 222 244 ; its early hatory, I. 247 251, 298 11. 26 III.;I8 :19 St. Mary'; Convent I. 107,382 St. Mary's Free Ch$ch 11. 184 St. Mary's Hos ita1 I. :97 St. Mary's-in-t\e-$ield 11. '34 251, 252, III. 1 7 ; its history: 111. I, a St. Mary's parish church, 11. 191 ; school-house, 111. 87 St. Mary's Port, 1. 382 St. Mary's Roman Catholic chapel, St. Maryi Street' I. p 11. 238 St. Mary'sWynd,' 1.38, A, 217,219, 274. 275 * 29.298,2 I 335,375 382, 11. ;3, 249.~84~1%. 6 ; door! head in 1. *3m St Matth:w'sWell, Roslio,III. 3 I St. Michael's Church, Inveres?c, St. Nicholas Church North Leith, 111. 168, 176, 187 :its demolition by Monk, 111. 187 255 St. Nicholas Wyud, fII. 256 St. Ninian's altar, St. Giles's Church, 111. 119 St. Ninian's Chapel, I. 364, 111.72 St. Ninian's Church, North Leith, 11. 47, 111. 167 *I# 251 aga; pe,tv tyrann in, iii. 25;; its ministers IIE 254, 2 5 5 ; now a g r a n a r y , ' ~ ~ ~ . 254,255 St. Niuian's Churchyard 111. *256 Sc. Ninian's Free Churih, North Leith, 111.255 Si. Ninian's Row, I. 366,II. 103,176 St. Patrick Square, 11. 339 St. Patrick Street, I. 366, 11. 346 St. Patricks Romao Catholic Church, 1. 278, 11. 249 St.Paul's Chapel,CarmbWsClo, I. 239 *a40 St. Pads Episcopal Chapel, I. 278 St. Paul's Episcopal Church, York Place, 11.60,188,198,248 St. Paul's Wark, 11. 101 St. Peter'sChurch,RoxburghPlace, 11. '79' school 11. 326 111.149 11. 338 St. Peter's Close 11. 255 St. Peter'sEpiscdpal Church,II1.51 St. Peter's Pend, 11. 255 St. Roque, 111.47 ; legends of, 111. 46,47 St. Roque's Chapel, Rurghmuir, 111.47, ?g : ruins of, Ill. *48 St. Roque s Day 111. 47 St. Roque's KirI&rd, 11. 379 St. Salvator's altar, St. Giles's St. Staphhs Church, 111. * 81,83, St. Thomas's Epkopal Chapel, 11. Church 111. 35 85 . . - . St?homas's Church, Leith, 111. St. Tkdudna, 111. r p ; Church of, St. Vincen't strhet, III. 83 Stafford Street, 11. 211 Stage, The, in Edinburgh, I. 247 248 '253 III.rz8 130 '3' 352 Stagesoaches, Establiihment of, 11.15, 16,235,236; the Glasgow, 11.121 Stained-glass window P a r l i i e n t House 1. 159 Plati6 stainh0u;e. La;d of, I. 1:9* 389 Stair, Earlof, I. p, 94,37 , 11. 38, 95, 167, 327, 348, 358, h. 3% 367 E.W~ Stair, I. 103, Stair, Eliiheth Countess of 1. xrn -106 17r, 111. 41 ; the "Iavic mirrd "1.103; hermarriagewrth Stamp duty, In0uence of the, on newspapers, I. 284,285 Stamp Office, I. 234,267 Stamp Office Close, I. *ng, 231, 232 ; execution there, 1.2% Standard Life Assurance Company, 11. '3 Stantied tragedy The I. 281 ztanley, Star and the Garter" acto:, 1. tavern ;30 I. 187 Steam communication iivd~eith to Stedman Dr. John 11.301 Steele, sir Richard,,l: 106 Steil Pate, the musicin, I. 251 Stenkor Stenhouse, 111.339 Steveu Rev. Dr,, the historm of the high School, 11.11 287, a88, 289, 291:296,35Sr 3&?11- 135 Stevenlaws Close 11.242 Stevenson, Dr. Ahibald, 11. 144 147 Stevenson, Duncan, and the Beacm newspaper, I. 181, 182 11.241 Stevenson Dr. John I d 18 19~27 Stewart &hibald 'Lord Phvost, I. 318, 322, 32;) 11. 280, 283; house of I. 318 * 325 Stewart ojAllanbLk, Sir John, 11. 26 Stewart Sir Alexander, I. 195 Stewart' of Colmess, Sir J ~ C S , Provost, 11. 281,111. 340 Stewart, Sir ames, I. 1r7 stewart of &trees Sir Jmi- I. 229, 111. 34-3;~ ; his h o d in Advocate's Close, I. *223, Ill. 30' Sir Thomas ib. Stewah Sir Lewis '111. 364 Stewariof Monk&, Sir Williim, Murder of I. 196,258, 259, 74 Stewart of 'Grantully, Sir john, Stewart of Grantully, Sir George, 11. 350; his marriage, 111.90 Stewart, Dugald, I. 106, 156, 11. 17, 39, 120, 168, 195, m~r 2 3, 111.20,55; gray of II. 29 ; his father, 111.20 ; h e cife, 11. 206 : her brother, 11. 207; Dugalds monument 11. III Stewart Jades 111.79 Stewart'of Gariies, Alexander, 11. 225 Stewart Belshes of Invermay, Sir John, 11. 383. Stewart, Daniel, 111. 67; hospital of, id.; ne* from Drumsheugh London, 111. 2x1 11. 97 117, 128,13 , 151,175, ZIO Steel, si; John,scuiptor, I. 159,372. 11. 351 grounds, 111. *68 road, 'I. 3% 3 d 111.221 Stewart Robert, Abbot of Holy- Stewart of Castle Stewart 11. 157 Stewart ofGarth, Genera;, 11. 150, Stewart of Strathdon, Sir Robert, Stewart Colonel ohn, 11. 350 stewart' hptain Eeorge, 11.257 Stewart: Lieut.Colone1 Matthew, Stewart, Captain James, I. 195, I@ Stewart of W t r e e s , I. 6a Stewart, Execution of Alexander, Stewart Lady Margaret 111. n I Stewart'of lsle Mn., 11.' 162 Stewart, Nichblson, the actor, I. Stewartfield manor-how, 111. 88, Stewart s Hospital, 11. 63, 111.67 Stewarth oysteehouse, i. I m Stirling, Enrls "f T I ? E Stirliig stirling gi ~ e w a I. 44 42 11.223 stirliig: sir w&, Lord Rovost, Stirling of Kek, Sir William, 11. 158 ; h e daughter, 111.35 Stirling, General Graham, I I. 153 Stirling, Mrs., actRsq I. 35f 11. d a youth, 11. 231 343 91, * 93 11. ~ $ 2 283, 391 I. 374 ... 283, 335, 343 343 III, 140; dew of, II. 169 vanous buildings in, 11. 172; it! early residents, 11. ...

Vol. 6  p. 389 (Rel. 0.15)

GENERAL INDEX. 387 Rhind. David. architect. 11. 147 275, '2 6, I I t . 67 244 . Rhmd, {anet, ToAb of, 11. 262 Riccarton, 111. 319; its loca history, 111. 321 Riccarton House 111. 322 Richard 11. of E h a n d . 11. 2 Richardson, Messrs., tobacconists Richardson, W.L.,theartist, 111.8: Richmond Court 11. 338 Richmond Stree; 11. 188 333, 332 Riding School ?he 11. 1>8 Riding School'Lani, 11. 135 Riddell's Close, I. 110, 1rr,z82, ng: Riddell's Land, I. 98, 110, 11. 9 Riddle Sir Jama 11. 187 194 Riddle's Close, Liith, 111: 226, 22( Ri ht of sanctuary, Edinburgt tastle deorived of the. I. 67 111. 34 , , Rillbank IiI. 55 Riots at ;he Cananmills, 111. 87 Risps, or ancient knockers, I. 94 237, 271, 11. 253 35' Ristori, Madam, the actress, I Ritchie, the sculptor, 11. 134, 147 336 Ritchie, hitch, 111. 79 Ritchie, Prof. Uavid 11. rg6 Ritchie. William. iditor of thq Scoto;mm, I. 284 of the Scottish bank note: RE25 and 5s.. 11. 94 Rirzio, David, Murder of, I. 6, 50 92. 3173 11. 41, 58, 66,68, 70, 71 92; abude of. 11. 11,111. 361 Rivio Joseph 11. 68, 70, Robe4 Abbot)of H~lyrood,~II. 3 Rober;[., 11. 307, 111. 35, 94, 166 Robert II., I. 26, 27. 142, 11. 3 Robeh III., I. 27, 11. 54,111. 317 Robert Bruce, I. 23,24,III. 199,34: Robert Gourlays house, 1. 116 327,343, 348 323 338, 348.354. 362 331, 354, 355 278, 111. 32, 59, 118, 166, 315 *rao 123 &. David. the oainter. 11. 80 Robei III. +, 83; his p;rents,lI~. 7; 78; his birthplace, 111. -77, 78 Robertson, Patrick, Lord, 11. 156 175, 191, 193, 19% zoo, 111. 126 240; Lockhart's description 0: him, 11. I 3 ; Lockhart'sepitaph: an him, I?. 194 Robertson, Dr., I. 101, 231, 236 271, 273, 11. 27, 194: tomb of 11. * 381. (See also the two fol Iaving articles) Robertson, Principal, 1. 106, 261 (See tkc $re. 11. 255, 281, 24% 293. 378, 379 111. 20, 22, 23,45. ceding andfolrauing artider) Robertson, the historian, 11. 168 his death, 111. 49; his materna niece, Lord Brougham's mother 11. 168. (See the two precedizg Robertson Memorial Estahlishec Chutch, 111. 50 Robertson, Dr., the Leith historian 111. 167, 173, 218, 219, zzo, 222 226, zA, 229, 23r. 235, 236, 238. 239,245, 2471 249, 256, 259: 2697 2701 276 Robertson Mr I. 175 Robertsonlof zochart, George, I. 204 206 Robekson of Lude, Lieut.-General. 111. 34 ; his black Servant, ib. Robertson, Geordie, 11. 3'6 Kcbertson, John, and the lepers, 11. I02 Robertson Mrs. Hannah reputed grand-diughter of Chahes II., Robertson's Close, 11. 250, 251 Robertson's Land, I. 178 "Robin Hood,"Gameof, forbidden, I . 116, 277 ; riot in wnsequence, II.21,355 1. 126 "Robin Mend-the-Market," 111. 274 RobRoy, 111,9r; thesonsof,I.70; popularity of the play of, I. 349, 350 Rob Roy's purse, 11. 87 Rohinson, Professor, 11. 86, 191 Rohinson's Land, I. 264 FWwn, the actor, I. 351 Rocheid of Inverleith, Sir James, I Rocheid family The 111. 94 Rocheid of 1n;erleith James, 111. 95 ; his encounter d t h the Duke of hlontaw, ib. ; his mother, ib. 111.94, 343 architect. 11. 184 5, 6 Rollinson, the comedian, I. 350 Rollo, Lord, I. 208 Rollock, Hercules, 11. 288, 289 Rullock of Pilton Peter 111. 307 Rollock Robert,' PrinApal of the Univirsity, I1 -78,111.8,9,16,2 Roman CatholicJchapels attacked by the mob, 11. 282 Roman Eagle Hall I. IrI Romanism, BurleAue on 11. 289 Roman relics and coins i. 10 Roman road near Portdbello. I. 10. . . * I2 I. +I0 319 Roman urn foundnear DeanBridge, Romieu, Paul, the clockmaker, I. Rood Chapel, Broughton, 111. 151 Rose, Bishop Alexander, 11. 22, Rosebery, Archibald Earl of, I. Rosebery Earls of I. g 111. 106 Rosebery: Lord, IiI. :5, 3 5 Rosebery James Ear? of, ?I. 324: singula; advertisement, ib. Rosehaugh, the persecutor, 11. 331, 375 Rosehaughs Close I. 253 25 Rose Court, Georie Stree;, If. 1x8 Rosehill, DavidLord, 111. 30 ROM Street, 11. 146, 158, 159, 163, Rose Street Lane, 11. 150 Rosebank Cemetery, 111. 89 Roseburn Howe 111. I-, 103, *104; lintel at: III. *Io3; 111- scriptions at, ib. Roseburn Mqltings, 111. 102 Rosevale Place 111. 266 Roslin Castle, iII. 346, 3 , *348, 351 ; its early history, 141. 347- s p ; the St. Clairs (Sinclairs), 111. 131 2572 11. 1042 109 96 say, D a d ) ' ;, Lords, I. 66, 11.326, 339,111. 362 Ross of Hawkhead, Lord, 111.260 Ross, John Earl of I. 247 ROSS David comedian, I. 341, 342 Koss: Walte:, the antiquary, I. 230, Ross House 11. 338, 339 Ross Park iI. 338, 339 Rosslyn. Earls of, I. 271-273, 111. 33% 111. 71-73 349- Rosr's Court I. 91 Ross's Towe:. or " Follv." Rothes, Earls of, I. 159, 11. p, 218, Rothesay, Duke of, 1. 26, 27. 142, Rothesay, Earl of, 11. 65 Rothesay Place, 111. 62 Kothiemay, Lady, 1. 281 Rotten Row, Leith, 111. 167. 235 Kotunda The 11. 83 Roubilkk, the'sculptor I. 159 Routing Well, The, 11). 364 Row, Colonel Archibald, I. zoz ; his wife s tomb, 1. 203 Row, the Church hiatorian, 111.260 Rowites The I. 239 Rowland Hili, the preacher, 11. 103 Roxburgh, Dukes of,I. 128,223,Il. ' 5 , '23 Roxburgh, Earls of, I. 223, 11. 3, 15,50,181,111.57; houseof 11.34 Roxburgh, Dr., botanist, IIi. 162 258 11. 47, 243. 111. 31, 32 Roxburgh Close I. 223 Roxburgh Club,'I. 375 Roxburgh parish 11. 135 Roxburgh Place 'I. 362 111 338 Roxburgh Terrice, 11. j38 Royal apartments in Holpood Xowl dank. I. 217. 222, 24% 11. Palace Piate 15 Fro 115, 136 170"171 *17a' the, 1. 182 335337 *?40 *IQ) its curator 111. 98 111. 71 b y a i Bank Ciose, iI1. h 4 ; fire in hsyal Blindksylum andschool, 11. Royal Bo;anic Gardens, 111. gb, Royal kircus, 11. '195, 199, *ZOI, Royal Collegeof Physicians, I. 362, 11. 247 Royal Company of Archers 11.348 3, 354; their hall, Ii. * 3 y : Royal Crescent 111. a6 Royal Edinbuigh Asylum, 111. 25,53 39 Royal Edinburgh Volunteers, I. 63, Royal Exchange, The, I. 79, 183- 187, *r8 191, 228, 229, a42, 255, 11. 281 ?I]. 125 ;.plan of the, I. * t 8 8 ; ;he Council Chamber, I. 11. 307. *377, 111. 105, 264 184, 186, Pkfc 7; back of the Royal Exchange, Plafe 10 Royal family, Submission by the Jacobites to the, 11. 247 Royal gardens, Holyrood Palace, 11. "65 *69, 9 Royal H~ghlanJ Society, 111. 127 Royal Horse Bazaar 11.225 Royal Hotel, 11. I&; its distinguhhed guests, ib. Royal Infirmary, 11. 146, 147, 28r, 282,296, 298-302, 359, 111. 114; thenewbuilding 11.358,359,*361 Royal Institution,'The, 11. 83, 86, 88. 01. 0 2 : in 1810. 11. *84: at .. present -11. "85 =' Royal Lhth Volunteers, The, 111. 198, 264 burgh Castle, I. 32, 36, *68 Royal Life Guards 11. 217 Royal lodging, 0; palace, Edin- Roval Maternitv Hosnital. 11.2'1 Royal Maternity and $impson hie- Royal Medical S&iety, I. 123, 11. morial Hospital 11. 362 yx.303, 111. 266, 311 Royal Riding School, 11. 334, 335 Royal Scots Grey Dragoons I. 64 Rqyal Scottish Academy, 11:86,88, Royal Scottlsh Naval and Military Royal Scotkh Volunteer review, Royal Society, l h e , 11. 83, 86, 204, 89, 9x7 921, I97 Academy 11. 335 11. 320, 354. Plate 23 111. 77 ~Oy.2 Terrace 11.103 Royal Terrace'Gardens, 111. 158 Royal tournaments, I. 35 Royston, Lord I. rrr,273,III.310, 311 ; eccenhc pranks of his daughter, I. 111,135,III.11q, 312 Royston, III.308,310 Koyston Ca5tle, 111. 311 Ruddiman, Thorn=, grammarian, I. 110, 123, 11. 291, 382, 111. 363 Ruddiman, theprinter, 11.310,III. Ruglen, Earl of, 111. 122, 3'7 Ruins of the old Market Closeafter Rule, Principal Gilbert, 111. 14, 16 Rullion Green, 111. p. 334. *337 Rumhold, Richard, 1. 59, 60 Runciman. the oainter. I. oz. axo. 363 the fire, I. *177. Russell Bishop of Leith 111. 187 Russell: Rev. 'Dr. h d a e l , 111. Russell the actor I. 350 Rutheriord, Lord: 11. 98, 174, 111. RutAerford Sir John 11. 356 Rutherford: Alison, iI. 156 Rutherford, Andrew, 11. 156 Rutherford, Dr., the fint inventor 243 68 ITI of gas, I. 274, 276, 11. 383; hu nephew, Sir Walter Scott, I. 276 Rutherford the botanist 11. 1zo Rutherford: Anne(Si WAterScott's mother) 11. 142 Rutherfurd-Clark, Lord, 111.26 Ruthven David Lord I. 178 Ruthven: Williarn Loh I. 6 206 215, 316, 11. 66, 70, 71; II1.'174! his dagger I. 317 Ruthven Si; Patrick, I. 52, 54, 95 Ruthven' the printer 11.18 111.271 Ruthven's Land L i d I. 5x6 Rutland Street, \I. I$, zog Ryan, the actor, 11.23 S Sabbath, Breaches of the, 11. 132, Sadler Sir Ralph, 111. 154 20) Sailin;, Early restrictions on, III. I33 '59 ailors' Home, Leith, 111. a59 'Salamander Land," The, 1. 142 Salamander Street, Leith, 111. 239 Salisbury, Earl of I1 305 Salisbury Craigs, \. I&, 384,II. 60, 161, 303, 305, 34, 3'372 311. 111, 142 Salisbury Road 111. 55 Salmon, Charle;, the local poet, 11. 310 111. 164 Salmon Pool, The, Water of Leith, Salt Backet The, 11. 178 Saltoun, h i d , 11. 343, 344 Fmpson's Grave,!I. 319 Sarnsou's Ribs, I. 11. 11. 312, 313 Sancto Claro, W i l l i de, 111. 35 Sanctuary Court-house, 11. 11 Sand Port Leith 111.171, 177,281 Sand PoriStreet' Leith 111. 259 Sandford Bishod 11. 1:6 111. 147 Sandford: Sir Dakel K. iI. 126 Sand-glasses, Use of, in law courts, Sandiland, James, 111. 42 Sandilands, Sir James, I. 195, 245, 302 11. 47 65 111. 116 Sandhand's ho;e I 240 Saughton Bridge'IiI. 319, *3zo Saughton Hall, iII. 19 Saughton House, I d . 3 9 , * 320; a drunken brawl I11 19 Saughton Laan knd,'dl. 319 Saunders Street, 111. 76 Saxe-Coburg Place 111. 75 Schmitz, Dr.Leonhh, 11.111,III. School House Wynd, 111.2 School Lane, 111. 28 Sciennes Court, 111. 54 Sciennes Hall 111. 51 Sciennes Hill house 111. 55 Sciennes b a n III. \4 Sciennes, The,' 111. 29, 50, 51, $2, I. I72 81 Scott William Lord Stowell, I. 299 Scott: LordJdhn, 111. 322 Scott, Sir Gilbert, the architect, 11. 111, 213, 111. 243 Scott, Sir John, 1. 210 Scott, Sir Walter, I. 3, 7, 12, 7'. 75, 1077 '23,1% 1% 150, 1549 163. 166, 171,173, 179, 182, 211, 222, ... INDEX. 387 Rhind. David. architect. 11. 147 275, '2 6, I I t . 67 244 . Rhmd, {anet, ToAb of, 11. ...

Vol. 6  p. 387 (Rel. 0.14)

GENERAL INDEX. 385 - Nisbet Lord 111. 67 Nisbet: Sir .&exander. 111. 136 Nisbet Sir Henry 111. 136 Nisbet: Sir John,’II. 10, 111. 66, Nisbet, Sir Patrick. 111. 66, 67. 136 Nisbet, Henry, 111. 66; manumentto I1 134 135 Nibet df bear;, Provost Sir William, 11. 280. 111. 26. 65, 66 ; Lady, I!. 335. 111. 66 Nisbetmuir Battle of (see Battles) Nisbets of Craigantinnie, The, 111. 136 138 Nisbdts of Dalzell The 111. 65 Nisbets of Dean,?rhe, ’111. 65,67, 136, 137 138 Nisbets of Dirleton, 11. 335, 111. 135, 138 ; houseoithe. 11. IO.*IZ Nisbett, Execution of Sergeant John. 11. 231 Noble Place, Leith, 111. 266 Noel, Miss, the vocalist, I. 350 Nollekens the sculptor 11. z8a Non-jura& The, 11. ;46 ; burialplace of, 111.131 Normal ghool of the Church 01 Scotland I. 2 5 296 Norman Rks, t$‘assassin of Lady Baillie 111. 156, 157 Norrie John !he decorator I. zgg Norrie: the ;inter, I. 89, li. go North Bank Street 11.95 North Bridge, I. 3ir 238, 245, 302, 334-344 358, 11. 2% 94, 99. Im, 111. 67 150 152 ; view of, Platd 12; con&udtionof, I. 337, 338,II. 281 ; fall of, I. 338; widening 01 the. I. $60: east side of the. I. No-Pope riots of 1779, I. a61 120, 126, 177, 178, 706, 283, 338, 34636;‘ . North Bridge Street I. 338 North British and hercantile In. surance Company, 11. 123 North British Investment Cam. I28 North British Rubber Company, 11.219, azo Pro!. John) North Christopher (see Wilson, North College Street, 11. 174, 111. 178 Home’s residence ib. North Hanover Street, 111. 242 North Inverleith Mains. 111. w6 . - N%h Leith, 11. 3,336,111. p, 9% 165, 166, 187. 188,. 193, 197.=g, ~51159, 295. Brid e of 11. 7 111. 167 : th; old ciurci, of 6,‘ Ninian, 111. 251-255; the neu church 111. 255, fa57 Nort Lkth Free Church, 111. z5! Nortk Leith Sands, 111. 258 North Leith United Preshyteriat North Ldch, I. 10, 20, 31, 38, 103 118,182, III.86,162; the botanic garden, I. 61 6 accidenrs U the North k? 21: 81, 82 North Quay Leith, 111. 210 North ueeAsferry 111. 282 North Zt Andrcw htreet 11. 1b0 Northern’Club The II.’151 Northern New’TowA, The, 11. 18; North&, Earl of, 11. 166,111. p NorthumberlLd, Imprisonment o Northumberland Street II.198,1p Norton, The Hon. Flktcher, 111 Church 111. 255 119, 183, ZP, 234 238, 3 4 335 337. 358,II. % 81, 99, 1 1 4 , w -189 Countess of 11. 21 the Earl of, 11. 242 127, 128 School 111: 1z8 11.168 Norton Place 111. 165 ; the Boar< Nottingtkn Place 11. 103 Numerous societi& in one house 0 Oakbank grounds 111. 54 Oakeley, Prof. Sd Herbert, 11.34 145 lbservatory, The old, 11. IW, 106; lchiltree, Lord, I. 195, 196, 214, khterlony, The family of, 11. 165 Jdd Fellows’ Club, 111. 123 3dd Fellows’ Hall, 11. 326 lffensive weapons, hlanufactun of, Jgilvie Sir Alexander, I. 236 3gilvie: Imprisonment of Lady, I. ’ 70 Dgilvie, Colonel, 11.310 Dgilvie, Gorge, 1. 121 3gilvie Thomas, Family of, 1. 70 311-paihings in the National Gal- D’Keefe’s ‘‘ Recollections,” 1. rgr 31d and New lawn, Scheme for 31d Assembly Close, I. 245 ; ruins 31d As2ernbly Hall I. 190 31d Assembly RooAs, I. 242 31d Babylon, Leith, 111. 227 230 31d Bank Close, I. 117, I,& 282, 31d Broughton, Remains of the Old Canonrhls House, 111. 88 Dld Dea?haughHouse, 111. 77 Old fighting mannersol Leith, 111. Old Fishmarket Close, I. 189, 190, the new, 11. 14, 111. 270 215, 111. 174 11. 263 lery, 11. 88, 89 joining the, 11. 95 ofthe 1. *244 11. 95 villap of 11. 1% 199 241 Dld High School Wynd, 11. 284, 111. 12 Old High School Yard, 11, 286 Old houses in the West Port near the haunts of Burke and hare, 1869 11. *224 Dld hduses, Society,185z, 11. *272 Old G.rk St Giles’s Cathedral Meetiniof b General Assembli in the Phte 13 Dld Plaihouse Close 11. 23,”s DldSchool The II.’rrr Old ScienAes HAuse, 111. 54 Dld Stamp Office Clox I. 231,275 Old 6urgeon‘s Hall I. ;8r Old timber-fronted’ houses, Lawnmarket, I. ‘108, IIO Old Toll Cross 11. 345 Old Town, Views of the, I. 16; Plate 4 ; Plate 16 Old Weigh-house, Leith, I. 186,188 Old West Bow I. 295 Oliphant Lord 11. 8 Oliphant’of Ndwton, Sir William, 11. 47, 379, 111. 364; his family, 111. 364 Oliphant of Newland, House of, Oliphant of Rossie MR Oliphant, Than&, P&ost, 41. Oliver and Boyd Messrs., 1. 281 O’Neill Miss adtress I. 108, 34 Orange: ExGcted dnding of t\e Oratory of Mary of Guise, I. *97 Orde. Chief Baron. 11. xcz: anec- 11. 7 11. 17 278 Prince of. 11. 306 do& of hisdaaglker, 11; I& Ordnance, The Castle, 1. 35, 36 Organ in St. Giles’s Cathedral, I. C47 ; in the music-class room, 11. Original Seceder Congregation, 11. ‘335 _. 119, 1 8 2 , ~ 7 . 348, 350 -- Ornuston trd of, I I I . 4 , 6 , 150 Omond ’Duchess of 111.62 Orphan hospital The, I. 2x8, 340, 359, 364 *361,’365 111- 67. *68 Orphan Hospital Park, I. 338 O r Captain John 11. 138, 35 Orrbck, Robert, blacksmiti, 11. Osborne, Alexander, the volunteer, Osborne Hotel The 11. 125 Otterburn, .%’A&, I, 43, 111. 237, 238, 111.67 11. IQ 43, 58 Otway, Admiral, 11. 171 Otway Silvester I. 179 Ought&, SirAdhphus, II.z+j’,pg, 3101 111. 195, 196 “Our Lady’s altar,” St. Giles’s Church, 111. 107 ‘Our Lady’s Port of Grace,“ ancient name of Newhaven 111. 295 ‘Our Lady’s Steps,” SL Giles’s Church I. 147 3utram h e r of Sir James 11.126 3ver Idw, The, 11.64, 22: Dxenford, Viscount, I. 378 Oxford Terrace 111. 71 Oyster parties patronised by ladies, I. 255, 111. 126 P Paddle ship, Curious, exhibited at Palace Gate, &e, 11. 40 Palace Yard 11. 310 Palfrefs In; 11.241 Palliser Capiain Sir Hugh, Amst and ikprisonment of, 111. 277 Palmer’s Lane, 11. 337 Palmerston, Lord, 11. 39 Palmenton Place 11. 211,214 Panmure, Earls of, I. 214, 11. 20 Panmure Close, 11. 20, 21; lintel of lohn Hunter’s house. 11. *ZI Leith, 111. I 8 PanGurc House, 11. 20, ZI Pantheon Club, The, I. 239 Pantheon The, 11. r79 Paoli’s v i h to Edinburgh, I. a99 “ Pap-in,” an old-fashioned dnnk, Papists Prosecution of I. 215 Pardodie of I. ;z Paris, a&mplice bf Bothwell in Darnley’s murder 111. 4, 6 Park Bum Gilmer&n 111. 351 Park Plac:, 1 1 . ~ ~ 3;6, 358 ;view Parkstde, I 355 Park Vale, Leith, 111. 266 Parliament Clcse, I. 132, 136, 143, 170, 174-182, zoo, 358, 11. 236, 243,271, 347,III.46,76 ; descnption of, 1. 174; view of the, I. *r68 ; proposed statue of Oliver Cromwell 111. 72 1. ‘79 of, 1’. *p Parliament ’bun, Leith, 111.227 Parliament Hall, I. 158, 159, Pbtr 6; narrow escape from fut in 1700, I. 161 Parliament House, I. 56, 122, 124, 157-173, 174.178, 181, 187, 190, zrs. 223, 334 336,374.11. v , 7 5 , 13% 24% 246 270 282 293, 339, !11. 113, 186: 2.z: th<old building, I. ’160,+*161; its present condition, 1. 164 ; plan of the, I. * .hn P&i& House, The ancient, Parliament, Riding of the, I. 162 Parliament Square, I. 175,178, 181, Parliament Square Ieith, 111. a47 Parliament stairs, i. 17gr +II. k i t h , 111. Yz4g 182, 19o92s5,I1. 78,10g2 1% 228, 260, 111. 31. -4, I I “-Q PL&ments held at Holyrood, 11. Parsons, Anthony, the quack, 11. Parson’sGreen,II.318 I 111.165 Passenger stages, EstaLUnent of, Patemn House of Bishop 11. 22 Patersodthe blacksmith, Ih. 345 ; Paterson’s Court, I. 102 Patehn’s House, Bailie fohn, 11. Paterson’s Inn, 11. 267, 268 Paton, Lord Justice-Clerk 11. 153 Paton. Si Noel. the pint& 11.9 ; Paton, the antiquarian, I. rrg Paton, Miss, the actress, I. 350 Patrick Cockburn. governor 01 Edinbumh Castle, 1. 31 Paulitius, Dr. John 11. pa Paul Jones, the p k t e , 111. I*, 4647 260 1. m his sculptured abode, ib. 10, 11, 111.261 his sister, 11. IF 196 197, agZ Paul Street, 11. 337.. Paul’s Work. I. *xii.. -I. w. 11. .- _ ” . 1 6 111. IS Paul’s Work, Leith Wynd, 111.1% Paunch Market, Leith, Ill. a p Paving of the Grassmarket 11. z p Paynq Henry Neville, SAfferings Peat Neuk. The, Leith, 111. 147 Peddie, Rev. Dr., 11. 3a6, 111. 101 Peehles Wynd, I. 192, zd, 219, 245, of, I. 66 374, 382 Peel Tower, The, I. 36,49 Peffer Mill 111. 61.62 Peffermiln.’II. 231 Pennant, the topographer, 11.101 Pennicuik, Alexander, the poet, 111.35 burgh I. 122 56 11. 28 Penny post, The first, in Edin- Pentlad Hill; h.*314. d1. 324: gold found in the, I. 269; k t t l e of the (we Battles) Perth Duke of 1. 326 330 Perth: Earl of,’II. 281: 111. 57 Perth, ImprisonmentoftheDuchess of, I. 69 Pestilence, Edinbur h visited with a, 111.29.35 (scc-%?gu=) “Peter’s Letters to his Kinsfolk,” 1. 173s 1748 211s 375 11. 14% 175, 18a, 186. 190, 195,111. 110 Pettycur, 111. 211 “Peveril of the Peak,’’ Curious story in, 11. 244 Pewterer, The first, 11. 263 Philiphaugh, Lord, I. 223 ; Lady, 11. 339 Phillip, John, pahter, 111. 84 Philliside, 111. 138 Philosopher’s Stone The 11.~5 Philosophical 1nsti;ution: The, ?I. Phrenological Museum, 11. 275 Physic Gardens, The old, 1. 308, Physicms, College of, I. 278, 11. Pliysicians &U,,The old, 11. q6, 149, 159. ~ t s library 11. 146 Picardie $illage and Gayfielrj House 11. *185 PicardieiTilage, II. 177, 186, III. 342 Picardy Gardens 11. 186 Picardy Place ’11. 85, 185, 1% 111. 63, 158, i61 Pier Place Newhaven 111. q.7 Piers de Lbmbard Sir’ I. 24 Piershill barracks’III: 138,qa Piersnill HO~X 1’11. 142 Piershill Tollbai, 11. 319 111. I@ Pilkington the architect,’ 11.114 Pilrig, I d . 88, 91. 92, 165; its loul history 111. gr ; the manorhouse 111. $92 163 Pilrig F;ee Churdh, 111. 163, *.I+ Pilrig Model Buildings Asoaation, PiEikZreet 111.163 Pillans, Jaies, the High School Pilton Lord 111. PinkeAon, john, advocate, 111. 5 4 199, 200, 2O21 315 Pinkie Battle of (see Battlesh PinkiiHouse, I. 331 Pinmaker The first 11. 263 Pious (PiAhouse) dub, 111. 124 Pipes, The (watarcservoir), Lath, 152 335, 962, 363, 111. 162 153. !55,,2 8 rector, 1. 379, 11. 194, 294, wr 296 I l l . 213 Piracy in the Scottish waters, 111. 182 Piratical murder of three Spaniards by Scotsmen 111. 184 Pine’s close 1’1. z Pmieiield, I h h , ill. 266 Pitarm, Lady, I. Pitcairn, Dr. h%d, I. *18r, 182, 251, 311, 11. 11~3% 382,111. P,&m, Rev. ?humas, II.133,IW Pitfour, Lord, I. 170, 241 Pitrnilly, Lord 11. 174, 227 pitsottie, ~ & n i c ~ e of I. 15o,r5r, 262, 11. 61, 6&65, d 7 , 285, 111. Pitskgo Lord I. 164,180 Pitt, cl$ntre;’s statue of W i , Pitt Street 11. 19 Plaa of G:!menon Ill. 343, Plague, Edmburgh)infeaed mth a, . 15 4% 54, sa 267 28 59, = 11. q r I. 19% 242, 298, II.6,7.306, 33% 380, II1.65,1* 186, ... INDEX. 385 - Nisbet Lord 111. 67 Nisbet: Sir .&exander. 111. 136 Nisbet Sir Henry 111. 136 Nisbet: ...

Vol. 6  p. 385 (Rel. 0.14)

GENERAL INDEX. Christ’s Church at the Tron, I. 187 Christ‘s Church. Castle Hill. I. 82 Chrystie family,’The, 111, 43, 45 Church Hill 111. 38, 71 Church Lad! 11. 1x5, 111. 38 Church offenders, how punished, 11.132 Ci her of Lord Damley and Queen ham. I. ‘16 C+Ls’&e,rIII. 307 Circus Place School 111. 81 Circus, The, Leith’Walk, I. 346, Ci:adel Port Leith, 111. 257, 258, 261 ; its irection by Monk, 111. 11. 178 187 256 City ‘ h l e r y Volunteer Corps, I. 286 City gaol 11. 231 City gates Number of, to be open daily ~ i . 222 city (;Lard, the Edinburgh, I. 5% 274 ment of the, 11. z$ City improvements Commence- City of Glasgow Bant, 11. 162 Civic privileges, Insistauce on by Civil War, First movements of, I. Clam Shell Land I. 239 Clam Shell lurdpike, The, I. 149 Clan regiments, I. 327 Clanranald, I. 334, 11. 35, 111. 146 Clanship, Influence of, I. 134,168 Claremont Park, Leith, 111. 266 Chmont Street Chapel, 111. 75 Claremont Terrace, 111. 88 Clarence Street, 111. 78 83 84 Clarendon Crescent IIi. 7; “ Clarinda,.’ 11,327: 328 ; house of, I1 * 32. room in, 11. *333 chic02 CAmrie, 11.159 Clarke Alexander, 11. 242 Clarke: Provost Alexander, I. 193, Clarkson Stanfield. the oainter. 111. the citizens, 11. 280 159; events of the, 111. 184 246, 111. 72 , _ , 78 tions, 11. 250, 111. 75 a descendant of, 11. a07 “Chudero,” the wit ; his produc- Claverhouse, l‘he spectre of, I. 66 ; Clavering, Lady Augwta, 11. 139 Cleanliness in the streets, Necessity “Cleanse the Causeway,” I. 39, 194, Cleghorn, the physician, 111. 311 ; Clelland’s Gardens, 111.152 Cleriheugh’s Tavern, I. 120, 184, for, 1. 193, 199. 203 258, 263, 11. 251 his nephew, rb. IR, Cl& Sir John, I. 231 232 Clerk’ John (Lord Eld$) 11. 186 Clerk’ofEldin. the ~val’tacticim. 111. 359, 3 6 Clerk 01 Penicuick, St George, 111. 359 Clerk of Pennicuick, Sir James, I. 92, 11. 123 ; his wife 11. IZ 124 125,111.192, 193; reiicsof8rinc: Charles, 11. 124, Clerk of Penuicuck, Si John, I. 111 11. 137 111. 63 198 Clerk: David,’physici;n, 11. agg Clerk Street Chapel 111. 51 Clerks, Society of, i. 167 Clermistou, 111. r q Clestram Lady I. 106 Cleuchdidstode 111. 33” Clifton Walter df 11. 50 Clinch’ the actor, ’I. 352 Clock&.ker, The first, 11. 263 Clockmaker’s Land, I. 31p. *321 Clockmill House, 11.41, 308 Closes, The old, 11. 241, 242 “Clouts Castle of” 11. 355 Clyde Lord 11. 3;3 Clydeidale Bank, The, II.148,III. 239 Coaches between Edinburgh and London, I. 55; between Edinburgh and Glasgow I. 201 between Edinburghan’d hith,’IIl. 151, 152 Coal Supposed existence of, near Gkton, 111. 308 ; the Esk coalseams, 111. 358,359 Coal Hill, Leith, 111. 234, 235.246, 247. 250 Coalstoun, Lord, I. 154, 111. 367 ; anecdote of I. 154 Coates, 11.24, zIr, III. 42, gz Coates Crescent, 11. 210, 2x1 Coates Gardens, 11. 214 Coates House 11. 1x1 259 Coates Manoi-house i f haster, 11. Coatfield Gutter, Leith, 111. 194 Coatfield Lane, Leith, 111. ZZO,ZZI Cobbler A clever I. 271 CobouriStreet,L;iyh,III.~5,256; sculptured stone in, 111. *260 Cochrane, Lady Mary, 11.272 Cockburn, Lord, I. 159, 282 265 307, 362, 366, 374. 375, 3& 11: 81, 84, 90, 9 1 ~ 93, 95, 4 I q , 114, 162, ‘741 2839 339, 34793488r 111. 62, 68, 78, 86, 95,. 110, his father, 111. 87 ; his residence at Banally, 111. 326, * 328 Cockburn, Sir Adam, I. 68 Cockbum, Alexander, the city Cockburn Archibald, High Judge Cockburn, Henry, the counsel, 11. Cockburn Provost Patrick, 11. 55 Cockburn’ Sheriff, I. 172 Cockburn’ofOrmiston, II.348,III. 58 ; Mrs., the poetess, I. gg. 11. Cockburn itreet, I. 229, 237, 283, 286 11. ~ r n “Codked Hat” Hamilton, 11. 139 Cockfighting II.236,III. a63 263 ; customary:n 1783, 11. 119 Cocklaw Farm, Currie. 111. 331 Cockpen,III.gr8;theLairdof,I.91 Cockpit, The, 11. I 6 Coffee-house, The lrst Edinburgh, Coinage, 1 he Scottish, I. z6g Colchester’s Cuirarrsien, I. 64 Coldingham,Lord Johnof, II.67,72 Coldingham, Prior of, I. 39 Coldstream. Dr. John, 11. 187 Colinton, 111. 35, 125, zr6, 314, *321, 322, 323 324; its local history, 111. 322,’ 323 Colinton House 111. 323 Colinton, Lords: 111. 323 Colinton Tower, 111. 333 College The I. 379 11. 255, zsg ; estabkshmgnt of, h. 8 College Kirk cemetery, 111. 15 College of Justice, I. 121, 166, 182, 195, 219, 259, 340, 368, 11. 203, 207, 325. 111. 49. 202, 316, 3% 334,338,359; firstmembersofthe, 1. 167 College ofPhysicians I. 278 11. 146 College ofsurgeons i1.146’111.15 College Street, 11. &I, 326; 111. 3 College Wynd, 11. “249, 251, 254, Colonsay ’Lord i. 159 11. 127 197 Colquho& of ’KillerAont, dchi- Colquioun ‘i?r John 11. 166 Colstoun iady I 282 Coltbridie, I. j36, 111. 102, 103, Coltbridge house and Hall, 111. Coltheart’s, Mr. and Mrs., ghostly Colville, Lord, 11. 335 Colville ofCclross, Alexander Lord, Colville of Easter Wem Combe, George, the pEnologist, Comhe‘l Clcse, Leith, 111. 126; “ Comedy Hut, I$ed Edinburgh,” Comely Bank 111. 7 82, 323 Comely Gardks II? 128, ~ 3 5 Comely Green IiI. rz8 Comiston IIL 316; Lairds of I. 97 ; the’battle stone, 111. *3;6 115, 116 hangman, 11. 231 Admirai, 11. 348 =27r 3’5 1.61, 329, 46 1; 174s 178 274, 383 111. 3 8 bald 11. 114, 118, 19 ‘03 visitors, I. 228 11. I15 I. 147 1. 384 111. 68 ancient buildin in ib. 1.230 Comiston House, 111. 326 Commendator Kobert of Holyrood. - . 1. 239 Commercial Ehuk, The, I. 175,II. 147 Commercial Street L$h, 111. 258 “Commodore O B k n 111. 154 Communication betwken the north and south sides of the city, Plan for I. * 296 Comhunion, how celebrated, 11. Comyn, 111. 351 Confession of Faith, The, I. 123 Congalton, Dr. Fraucis, the phy- Biclan, 11. zg8 Congalton of Congalton, 111. 58 Connell, Sir John advocate, 11. 194 Conn’s Close, I. ;go, II. 241 Conservative Club The 11. 125 Constable,Archibaid, th; publisher, I. 157, 210, 229 291,339, 11. 1x8, * I Z I , 142. 15:; the h’din6vmh Rmim, I. ZII ; his customers, I. 210 ; his shop, I. 2x1, 11. raz ; Lockhart’s description ofhim, 11. 122; his bankruptcy, ib.; his portrait, ib. 132 : CUPS, ia. Constable, Thomas, 111. log, 110 Constable’s Tower, The, I. 36, 49 Constables, Appointment of city, I. Constables of the Castle I. 78 ConstitutionStreet. Lei;h, 111. 171, cution oftwopirates, 111.243, a67 Convening Rooms, 11. 104,106 Convenery, The, Leith, 111. aog Convention of Royal Burghs, Cooper Dr. Myles 11. 247 Cooper; of Go&, The family of Coopkrs The, 11.265 Cope, si ohn, I. 322, 325, 326, Cordiners, or shoemakers The, 11. 203 184,239, 243, a44. ~ 8 8 , 289 ; exe- Ancient, I. 186 the 111. 318 327. 333, 11. 281, 111. 132, 263 . . . . 263 Cordiners of thehougate, 11.19 ; Cordiners 0) the Portsburgh, A r m s Corehodse Lord 11. 206, 207 Corn Excbange,’Grassmarket, 11. Corn Exchange, Leith, 111. 239 Corn Market, The, I. 178, 11. 222, Cornwallis Lord iI1. 23 193, 335 Corporal &on DL, I. $5 Corooration of Candlemakers. 11. their king ib. ofthe 11. 224 236 230,231 ; the old 11. *z33 a&, 267 Cor oration privileges, Monopoly CoGoratious, The Ancient, 11. 263 O f 11. I5 . - -267. 111. I< Correction House, The, 11. 323, Corri SFgnor 11.178 179 CorriLhie, Bahe of (& Battles) Corstorphine, I. 254. 323, 324. 111. IIZ-I~I, 3x8, 3’9, 327, 332, 314; its name 111. 112, 113 Corstorphine Castle, 111. 118 Corstorphine Church, III. 115,”116, I m ; its hltory, 111. i15--163 Corstorphine Craigs, 111.113 Corstorphine cream, 111. 114 Corstorphine Cross 111. 113 CorstorphineHill,IkI. xq, 113,118 ; viewof Edinburghfram, II1.*117 Corstorphine Loch, 111. 42, 118 Cotterell, Lieut.-Col., General Assembly expelled by, 11. 223. Cotterill, Right Rev. Henry, Bishop of Edinburgh, 11.212 Coulter. William. Lord Provost. 11. 283 ; his funerd, 111. 39 Council Chamber The ancient cos! Hill, h i d , 111. a46, 247: ’ Coull’s Clow, 11. 5, ‘7 ” 248 Country Dinner Club, The, 111.125 Couutv Hall. The. I. IZZ Cuupir, Lord 1. ;54 164 111. azz Couper Stm;, Leith: I l i . 258 Courtof Session, 1.166, ‘61, 11. a3 ; robable extinction of 1. 174 “ &U* of Sesuon GarlAd,’’ I. 1% COUrtS Of 1. 157 courts of w, 11. 245 226, 111. 30, 184, 186, I&, 33,; courage ofthe I 160 161 11.19; transportatiod 0.i th;, IiI. IQ ; execution of the 11. 235111.156 Covenanters’ Flag: 1. 54 Covenanters’ Prison, Entrance to the, 11. * 381 Coventry, the lecturer 11. 120 Covington, Lord I. :70 272, 338, Cow Palace, 11. 319 cowan Lord 11.207 Cowan: War;?house of Messrs., 11. Cowfeeder Row, 111.94 Cowgate, The. I. % 31, 38, 3% 1x0, 123, IP, 148, 157, 161,162, 179. 181, 2071 217, 219, 245. 253, 255, 263, 266, 267, 268, 278. 2 2, 294, 86, 147. 166, 232-68, a m 273, 358, II. 116 Iii. 135 ; ’hi, pwn, I. 170, 11. :87 171 295, 3731 374, 375, 378,li: 2, 23. 282. 293, 346 111. 23 31 47 6, 53. 63, 125, 126 ;‘its early name, the Sou’gate, or Southstreet, 11.239, 249 ; origin of the thoroughfare, 11. 239 ; ancient weapons found therein, 11.240 ; oldhouses in the, 11. * 240, * 244 ; ancient maps of thecowgate 11. *141, *245,”161; excavations kade on the site 11. a45 ; head of Cowgate, P& 21 Cowgate Chapel 11. 194 Cowgate Churcd, 11. 188 Cowgate Head, 11. 168, 241, 267 Cowgate Port, 1.274, 278,298, *pi, 11. 17, 146 ~ 3 9 , 2 1 0 , ~ o 111 156 Cowper, Bishop, t h e g a l k 111: 260 Craftsmen, l’he early, 11. ;63 Craig, Lord, 11. 121, 143, 187, 270, Craig, sir Lewk I. 226 111. 322 Craig of RiccrtrtAn, Sir khomas, I. Craig, James, architect, 11. 105, Craig John the Reformer I1 262 Craiiof Ridcarton, Rob& 11: 123, Craig hnd, The, 11. 103, 111. 186, =a7 Craig Houx, 111.42; its successive owners, I I . 4 2 , 4 3 , * ~ ; itsdiningroom and kitchen, 111. *# Craigantinnie, JamesNisbetof. 111. 63 Cnugantinnie manor-house, 111. Cmgantmnie marbles, The, 111. 138, * 144 Craigcrook,III. 78 107 ; itssuccessive owners, I I ~ . 107 ; a fearful tragedy and remarkable dream, 111.108, r q Craigcrook Castle, 111. 106, * 107, I d 1 9 110 *I12 Craiicrook, d d y , 111. log Craigie-Wallace, Lady, 111. ya Craigingalt, or Craigangilt, The rock 11. 102, 111. 151 Craigkth. III. 94, 107 Craigleith quarry, 111. 82, 83, 111. Craiglockhart 111. 42, 43 C+glc+hart’HiIl, 111. 42 Cmgmllar, 11. 336, 111. 57. 142, 327 226,111.321, 322 117, 118, 146 111.334 136, 138.7 141 23 1 3 7 2399 287, 338 Craigmillar, Henry de, 111. 58 Craigmillar Laird of, 111. 61, 94 Craigmil1ar)CnstIe. I. 1s. 42,77,111. 3, p, 58; views of, 111. *6a Platc 27; its history, I l l . 58- 62; Queen Mary at, 111. 59 Craigmillar Hill 111. 61 Craigmilh pari, III. 51, 58 Craigmillar Road, 111. 58 Craig’s Close I. 179 203 za9. 230 Craig’s plan Af the dew ltreets and Cramond village, 111. 311. 314- 318, Pkte 34; its history, 111. 314, 31s; the “Twa Brigs,” 111. 31s. old Cramond Brig, 111. squares, 11. XI,, XI8 ... INDEX. Christ’s Church at the Tron, I. 187 Christ‘s Church. Castle Hill. I. 82 Chrystie ...

Vol. 6  p. 373 (Rel. 0.13)

3 99 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . Stirling-Maxwell, Sir Wm., 11. 86, . Stitchill, Laird of I. 169 .Stockbridge, 11. ;31, 188, 189, 1x1. 74 719 742 75, 78, 79, 8% 8% 83, 92,9ji chinamanufactory,III. 75 Stockbrig tlrae, 111. 71 .Stocks from the uld Canongate lolbooth 11. *31 Stoddart, Provost. 11. 1 0 5 , 2 8 ~ Stone Cross The 111. '87 Stonefield, hrd,' I. 273, 11. 339, Stonyhill House 111. 365, 366 Storm in Leith 'harbour, Terrible, 358, 111. 24 111. $7 111. 18a. 202 ,Stowell ib;d I a 9 ~ t r a c ~ Prdf. j o i n 111.14 .Straiton,'Colonel Chkles, 11. 243 .Straiton's Loch, 11. 347, Strange phantasmagoria, A, I. 103 .Strathalkn Imprisonment of the Viscount& I. 69 Strathmore Ikrd 11. 303, 111. rgz .Strathnave:, Lord, 11. 17, 65 Street disturbances by boys, 11.259 Streets of Leith, Cleauslng and lighting of the, 111. 194 Strjchen, Lord, 1. 254, 255, 257 Str!chen'h Close, I. 253, 254, 255 Strike among workmen, I h e first, 11.264,326 Struthers William . his quarrel with Piof. Keid IiI. 10 -Stuart Abbot KoLert 11. 48 Stuart' an Provos; 11.279 Stuart: Lord james, li. 66,67,101, .Stuart,LordRobert,lI.67,7q, 111.4 .Stuart of Grantully Sir George, I. mzs~ (see Stewartj S t u n Sir James I. 43 .Stuariof Fetterdim, Sir John, 11. 111. 174 '43 Duke of Lennox, 11.243 Stuart, Sir John, II. 318 Stuart, Esme, Lord DAubigneand Stuart, Sir Robert, 1. 243 . h a r t of Dunearn, am-, I. 173, Charles 11. 343 .Smart of balguise, David, Provost, 11.282 . S t u n Colonel 1.66 67 6g stuart: ~mes iordAovbst,11.z8a Stnart John Sobieski 11. 159 Stuarr)of Allanbank, Lady, 11. 89 Stuart, Lady Grace, I. 273 Stuart Lady Margaret, I. 35 . S t ~ $ s , Dr., " Sculptured Stones,' 181, 339. 3792 IT 1. 4 2 , 343 11. 99 the 11. *zzo 111,228 Suburbs of the West Part, Map 01 Succdth, Lord, 11. 344 Sugar House Close, The old, Leith .Summerhall brewery, The, 111. 51 .Sumptuary laws of 1457 1 a8 Surgeon square, I. * 3L,' 383, II Surgeons, Royal College Or, I. 383 .Surgeons and apothecaries, Unior :Surgeons' Hall, 11. 330, 334, 335 '27, "75, 302, 303, 335 11. 300. 301. 302, 289 of the, 1. 382 ".._ Sur:% Hospital, The, 11. zg6 .Surgical mstrument-maker, Thq %me;, Earl of 11. 61, 62 Sutherland, Fail of, I. 237, 238, II 375, 111. 298; C o u n t s of, I .Sutherland Duke of 11. 123 . .Sutherland: James, bkanist, I. 362 3.59, 364.362, 379 first 11. 263 238, 339 11. 35 363 Suttie, Sir George, 11. 272; Lady 'Sutton, Sir Thomas, I. 49; Ladj :Swanston, 111. 326 Sweating Club The, 111.123 Sweeps, Strikdamoug, 11. 326 'Swift's Wynd 11. 242 swine in the L e t s , I. 27511.23 Swinton, John Lord, 11. z p Swimon Lord 11. 35, 158 111.36, Swinton( of Dhmdryan, 'Captain' Swinton, Margaret (Si. W. Scott'r 11. 26 Dowager, 11. 274 111. 30 grand-aunt), Curious storyrelated Sword formerly used for beheading criminals 11. a31 Sydeserf, dishop of Galloway, Attack on, I. 122 Sydney Smith, 11. 347 Sydserff, Sir Thoma5, 11.40 Syme, Geordie, the Dalkeith town- Syme, Professor James, surgeon, Symons, Dr., and the ruffian Boyd, Symson, Andrew, the printer, 11. by. 11. 244 piper, 11. 170 11.274, 359 11. 268 256 ; his house, 11. * a57 T Tabernacle, Rev. James Haldane's, Leith Walk 111. 158 Tailor, An enarprising, 11. 27r axlors' Hall, The, 1. ajg, 240 I1 T;z5z,. 258, 31 ; ornamentaaj in: scnptions, d. 258 ; the drama in the 11.23 258 Tail/=. Thk. 11. 166 Tait LrchbLhop, 11.344, 111. 86 Tait)of Glencross, 11. Tally-stickof 1692 1 '20886 Talmash of Helinaha;n, Sir Lionel. - . 11. 3'7 111.87 f 89, 95 11.74 , Tam 0' the Cowgate, 11. 259, 260, Tanfihd Hall, Canonmills, 11. 146, Tannahih, Robert, 11. 127 Tanner'sClose, II.226,227,229, a30 Tapestry Room, Holyrood Palace, Tarbat, Viscount, 11. 353, 111. 307, Tarbat Sir Jam- I. 151 Tarbet' Masterof'III. 214 Tas+'James and William, model- Taverns, Demand for, in former 330 111. 83 3x0 lers, 11. 89 times, I. 255 Tax Ofice, The, 11. 123 Tavlor, the Water-wet, I. IW. 11. - . ,,. 73, 111. 183 237 Tea. First im&rtiltion of. 111. 276 Tei&mouth,'Lord, 11. 165, 212 ' Teind Court The 111. 83 Teller, Mrs.,'Smoliett's sister, 11.26 Telford, the engineer, 111. 63, 70 Templar Knights, Houses of the, I. 310,321, 11. "232 Templar lands I. 321 Temple Close 'I. ar, 11. 231 Temple Lands, Erassmarket, 11. '232 Temple ofHealth 11. 242 Tenducci, the sinker, I. z51 Tennis Court The 11. 3 ' the theatre attdhed thereto, Pi. 39: 40; Shakespeare at the, 11. 40, other plays ib. Tennis-court,'The old, Leith, 111. Territorial Church, The, 11. 224 Terrot, Hishop, 11.198, rgg Terry theactor, I. 350, 11. 26 Tevio;, Earl of, 111. 26 Teviot Row, 1.38,II. 323,326, 338, 344 345, 346, 356,358 %cleray, W. M., 11. 150 Thatch House, Portobello, 111. 145 Theatre of Varieties, 11. 176 Theatre Royal, I. 340 *349, 350, 351s 35% 11. 179. 953 158, 163 ; building of the, I. 341, 11. 25, 26 : riot in the, I. 346 ; the last performance 1. 352 ; demo. lition of the old bhding, 1. +953 ; the present theatre 11. 178 Theatres, I. 83; Wktefield on, I. 340,341; royal patent for, I. 341 ; the early performances I. 342 343 ; popularity of Mrs.'Siddou: 1.3457 346 238 Thicket Burn, The, 111.143 Thieves' Hole, The, I. 48 Thirlestane, Lord, I. 246, 111. x49, Thirlestane Road, 111.46 Thistle Street, 11. 158, 159, 111. Thomson, the poet, 11. 117, 127 ; 150, 339, 364 I10 his nephew, Craig the architect, 11. 117 Thornon, Alexander (" Ruffles "), 111.90 Thornon of Duddingston Sir Thomas, 11. 316 ; Sir Willi&, ib. Thornson, Rev. Andrew, 11. 126, 1357 175, 210 Thornson George musician I. 251 l'homsoi of Duhdingston: Rev. John, the painter, 11. 89, p, 314, 111. 84 Thornson, John and Thomas, 11.347 Thornson, Thomas, I. 374 375,II. Thornson, Dr. William 111. 27 Thornson's Green, I. 3;8, 11. 260 Thornson's Park 11. 338 Thorneybank, ?he, 11.218 Three battles in one day, 111. 351 Three Thorns of the Carlinwark, I. Thnepland, Sir Stuart, I. 208 ; his 191 748 75 son. ib Thizbikin The,,,[. *62 Tilting-ground &I the West Port, Tihbie FAwler 111. 247 The. 11. 224 Tilts h d tournaments near the Timber Bush,'or €%our&., 1 he, Leith Calton Hill 11. 102 103. 111. a31 Timber-fronted houses in the Cowgate, 11. 239, qo Timber trade, The Leith, 111. 231 Tinwald, Lord, I. 273 Tipperlinn hamlet, 111. 39 Tirlia, The, 11. 3rx Tirling- ins I 271 I1 253 26 . from fad; L&at'; house, hlaci! friars Wynd, I. *258 Titiens Madame I. 35r Tod, Sir Archibah, Provost, 11.280 Tod SirThomas Provost I1 279 T d i g ' s or Toddrick's Wynd, 11. 269, 111. 6 : incidents in, 11. 241 Tal s Close, I. 2, Todshaugh, II? 15 Tolbooth, The Edinburgh, I. 40,42' 5% 597 701 95, 1 ~ ) 123-1381 157, 158, 175, P I , 219, 24% 11. 237, 2 8 246, 248, 062, 3% 323. 324, 111; 6 I, 136, 142, 156 186, 191 zz 247 277. its demblition and re8;ildihg, 1: 124 146, 111. 7, o p : records of thi, I. 127 ; relicri of the, 1. * 129 ; view of the I. 133. 197, PLatc 5 : descripkon of the, I. 134; its final demoli. tion, ib.: attempted escape from, 1.383 ; executions at the, 11. 238 Tolbooth, The Canongate, 11. I, 2 Tolbooth Kirk The I. 129, 144 Tolbooth Stair: 11. ;3 T$booth, The Leith, 111. 179. 192, !93.227, 228, 229, 235.277 ; im orironers. 111. 220 : trooos ouar. . iered there, ib.; ';is deAol&iun, 111. 230: the new Tolbcoth ib.; Queen Mary's letter to the &din. burgh Town Council, 111. 228 Tulbooth, The new 11. 239 TolboothWynd If. *zo Tolbooth Wynd, Le?i, 111. 166, 167, *zz5, 216 227 228 234, 246, 247, 25 , 273 f curhs'tablet on the, 111 228, * 229 Tolcroce, 111.94 Toll Cross, 11. 346, 111. 30, 42 Tonnage of Leith, III.z75,~77,178 Toutine,The,George Street, 11.139 Toole, J. L., the actor 1. 351 Torphichen Lord I &o 21, 327 Torphin, P h a n d HiIk,'dI. 324 Torphine Hill 111. 113 Torthorwald, 'Murder ef Lord, I. Tourhope Laird of I. 194 Toun-end' The 11.'13~ Touris ofinverieith, Family of, 11. 330 111. 947 3'01 3'7 Touriaments Chivalrous II.55,225 Tower, The, Portobello, i I I . 146 Tower of Jama V 11. 0, 73 Tower Street Ixiii I l l 244, 245 Tower Street Portdbello, 111. I48 Towers of Idverleith, George, 111. 195. 196 28, 29 Town Council The I. 157; their visitation of 'the dniversity, 111. 15, 16 Town Guard, The, I. 38, 11. 341, Town Hall, Leith, 111. 228, 043, Town Hall, Portobello, 111. 148, Tracquair, Sir James 11.71 111. 7 Trade despotism at I k t h i11. 1p0 TradeofLeith,Aglancea; the,III. Trades' corporations of Leith, 111. 111. 191 244 * '53 289 Trades-Maiden Hospital, 11. 168, "Traditions of Edinburgh," I. I%, 1187 225, 2591 263, 377, Trained Bands, The Edinburgh, 11. r+75,III. 192; theleith, 111.188 Training College of the Church of Scotland 11. 176 Training institute of the Scottish Episcopal Society, I. p Trayuair, Charles Earl of, 11.270; hard case of I. zm, 242, z98 Travelling in (he last century 1. 6 11. 22 ; by the Leith stage: 111: 15% '54 Treaty of Union, Unpopularity of the I. 163 165' bribery of the Scdttish mekkrs) of Parliament, I. 163, 164 Tree, Miss M., actress, I. 3 o Tria1,Theearlieyt Edinburgz, I. 256 Trials and executions for high treamn, 11.23.5-238 Trinity, 111. 306, 307 Trinity Church, I. 214 Trinity Church, StockbridgeJII.70 Tr;tnity Cullege Church, 1. *z88, 289, P r 303, *304, *305, j4 31% 338, 34% 3592 362, collegiate seals, I. *303: the charter, 1. 303 ; provision for the inmates, I. 307 ; ground plan, 1. * 30s Trinity Grove, 111. 307 Trinity Hospital,I. 290," 304,*305, a+, 339 *312r 362 Trinity Ouse, Leith, 111. 223, * 214, za6, 279 ; sculptured stone in theeast wingof, 111. '223; its earlyhistory, 111. 223 *2727 2737 301, 111. 55 11, 18 111.7; 3073 I. 74, 101, 234, 290, 379; old Trinity Lcdge, 111. pz, 306 Tron Church, 1. 82, 187-191, zo+, benefactions to thechurch I. 187, 188 ; the fire of 1824, I. 188-191 ; New Year's Eve at the, Plafc 8 ; the old Tron Church, I. *193. 111. 252 Tron, 'I he, Leith, 111. 238 Tron, The, I. 188, 219,298, 11. 62, Trotter, the architect, 11. 95 Trunk's Close I. 2x0 Trustees' Acahemy, 111. 83, 84 Trustees' Hall, The, 11.84 Tucker's re rt on the condition of Tulloch, Colonel Alexander, 111. Turdulence of 'the High School Turk's Close I. 121 282 Turnbull, D.'W. B.,'advocate, 11. 197, 198. Turnbull of Airdrie, William, 111. 34 Turner Sir ames 11.31 Tweedhale, i a r l s Af, I. 63, 119, 278, 279, 11. 8, 286 Tweeddale, Marquis of, I. 214,278, $32, 333, 11. 246; house of, 1. Tweeddale's Close I. 278 280, 297 Tweedies, The fdmily df the, 1. Twelve o Clock Coach, The, 111. "Twooennv Custom." The. 11. 376,11.64309.I1I. 154.r9r1306; Y', 3 5 111- 7 Leith, IIr187, 188 74. IS father 16. boys, 11. 289 277, 281, 11. 246 '94. '95. 227, 282 '4 Eo'i;adows id Cinvem;ionT Tyburn of Edinburgh, The, 111.38 Tynecastle toll 11. 218 Tytler, Tomb df Alexander, II.38b 111. ma, ~2 218 Tytler, Patric Fraser, Lord Woodhouselee, 11. 210 11. '161 ... 99 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . Stirling-Maxwell, Sir Wm., 11. 86, . Stitchill, Laird of I. 169 .Stockbridge, 11. ...

Vol. 6  p. 390 (Rel. 0.13)


  Go back to the index