Old and New Edinburgh

Old and New Edinburgh

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by a man named Clark, in the Fleshmarket Close.
He had the tact and art to keep his secret profligacy
unknown, and was so successful in blinding his
fellow-citizens that he continued a highly reputable
member of the Town Council until within a short
period of the crime for which he was executed,
and, according to “Kay’s Portraits,” it is a siiigular
fact, that little more than a month previously he
there were committed a series ot startling robberies,
and no clue could be had to the perpetrators.
Houses and shops were entered, and articles of
value vanished as if by magic. In one instance a
lady was unable to go to church from indisposition,
and was at home alone, when a man entered with
crape over his face, and taking her keys, opened
her bureau and took away her money, while she re-
BAILIE MACMOBRAN’S HOUSE.
sat as a juryman in a criminal case in that very
court where he himself soon after received sentence
of death.
For years he had been secretly licentious and
dissipated, but it was not until 1786 that he
began an actual career of infamous crime, with
his fellow-culprit, George Smith, a native of Berkshire,
and two others, named Brown and Ainslie.
He was in easy circumstances, with a flourishing
business, and his conduct in becoming a leader of
miscreants seems unaccountable, yet so it was. In
and around the city during the winter of 1787
15
mained panic-stricken; but as he retired she thought,
“surely that was Deacon Brodie !” But the idea
seemed so utterly inconceivable, that she preserved
silence on the subject till subsequent events
transpired. As these mysterious outrages continued,
all Edinburgh became at last alarmed, and in all of
them Brodie was either actively or passively concerned,
till he conceived the-to him-fatal idea
of robbing the Excise office in Chessel’s CQUI~, an
undertaking wholly planned by himself. He visited
the office openly with a friend, studied the details
of the cashier‘s room, and observing the key of the ... so successful in blinding his fellow-citizens that he continued a highly reputable member of the Town Council ...

Vol. 1  p. 113 (Rel. 1.34)

Leith.: PAUL
pinnaces were hourly expected ; but, thanks to the
west wind, Leith was saved.
“ We continued working to windward of the
Firth,” says Jones, in his narrative, “ without being
able to reach the Roads of Leith till the morning
of the 17th, when being almost within cannon shot
of the town, and having everything in readiness for
the descent, a very severe gale of wind came on,
and obliged us to bear away after having endeavoured
for some time to withstand its violence.
The gale was so severe that one of the prizes taken
on the 14th (the Rn>ndsh!ip of Kirkcaldy) was sunk
to the bottom, the crew being with difficulty saved.
AS the clamour by this time reached Leith by
JONES. 197
It was evident that the age of miracles was not
past at that time, as it was openly asserted that Mr.
Sheriff, the secession minister of Kirkcaldy, by his
prayers, “ assisted, with God’s help, in raising the
wind ’’ (” Life of Paul Jones,” by the Registrar of
the U. S. Navy, &c., &c.).
Attention having thus been drawn to the defenceless
state of the town, a battery-now rendered
utterly useless by encroaching houses and dockswas
built to the eastward of Bathfield. Originally
it was only a rampart armed with nine guns facing
the water, as a protection during the American
War; but in later years the works were added
to: spacious artillery barracks were built, with a
with the aid of handspikes, were conveyed across
the old bridge to North Leith and posted on a
portion of the citadel, forming a battery that might
have proved exceedingly perilous to those who
worked it. A few brass field pieces, manned by
artillerymen, were posted farther westward, and
arms were supplied to the incorporated trades from
Edinburgh. All eyes were now turned on the
enemy’s ships, from which the manned boats and
means of a cutter that had watched our m6tions
that morning, and as the wind continued contrary
(though more moderate in the evening), I thought
it impossible to pursue the enterprise with a good
prospect of success, especially as Edinburgh, where
there is always a number of troops, is only a mile
distant from Leith, therefore I gave up my project”
He bore away, and soon after fought his victorious
battlc off Flaniborough Head.
--U
PAUL JONES. ... but, thanks to the west wind, Leith was saved. “ We continued working to windward of the Firth,” says ...

Vol. 6  p. 197 (Rel. 1.24)

Leith the additional accommodation required by
its shipping and commercial interests, including the
provision of a low-water pier.”
These engineers, after a careful survey, failed to
agree in opinion, and recommended three different
plans-Mr. Walker two, and Mr. Cubbitt one. The
details of only that to which the Lords of the
Treasury gave preference, and which was one of
Mr. Walker‘s, need not be stated, as they were
never fully carried out, and in 1847 a Government
THE EDINBURGH DOCK, LEITH.
The Victoria Dock was formally opened by the
steamer RoyaZ Yiciorid (which traded between
Leith and London), which carried the royal standard
of Scotland at her mainmast head, but there
was no public demonstration,
In 1860 the Harbour and Docks Bill passed the
House of Lords on the 19th of July. This Act
cancelled the debt of about ~230,000 due to the
Treasury for a present payment of ~50,000, The
passing of this measure, and its commercial imgrant
of L135,ooo was obtained for a new dock
by the new Commissioners, under whose care the
entire property continued to prosper, while trade
continued to increase steadily; thus the accommodation
for shipping was further enlarged by the
opening in 185 2 of the Victoria Dock (parallel with
the old dock), having an area of about five acres,
with an average depth of twenty-two feet of water.
Here berthage has constantly been provided for
the London and Edinburgh Shipping Company’s
fleet,-.and for most of Currie and Co.’s Contineatal
trading steamers. It was contracted for
by Mr. 3 9 , of Scarborough, who finished the
piers about the same time as the dock; but the
Victoria Jetty was not constructed till 1855.
portance to Leith, was celebrated there by displays
of fireworks and the ringing of the church bells.
In the lapse of a few years after the opening of
the Victoria Dock, the trade of the port had
increased to such an extent that the construction
of a still larger and better dock than any it yet
possessed became necessary. Thus the Commissioners
feIt justified in making the necessary
arrangements with that view.
Consequently, in 1862, Mr. Rendell, C.E,
London, and Mr. Robertson, C.E., Leith, in
accordance with instructions given to them, submitted
a plan, by which it was proposed to reclaim
no less than eighty-four acres of the East Sands
(the site of the races of old) by means of a gxeaf ... new Commissioners, under whose care the entire property continued to prosper, while trade continued to increase ...

Vol. 6  p. 284 (Rel. 1.22)

as for sale, “together with those new subjects
lying in Water Lane, adjoining Messrs. Elder and
Archibald‘s vaults.”
Many years ago Mr. Macfie was a well-known
sugar refiner in Leith. His establishment stood
in Elbe Street, South Leith, when it was destroyed
by fire; and about 1865 there was started the
extensive and thriving Bonnington Sugar Refining
Company in Breadalbane Street, I.eith, which was
described in a preceding chapter.
THE BANK OF LEITH, 1820. (AferStowr.)
of the incidental allusions to it. It is, however,
supposed to have included a royal arsenal, with
warehouses and dwellings for resident officials,
and according to Robertson’s map seems to have
measured about a hundred feet square.
‘( The remains of this building,” says Amot,
writing in 1779, “with a garden and piece of
waste land that surrounded it, was erected into a
free barony by James VI., and bestowed upon
Bernard Lindsay of Lochill, Groom of the Chamber
The Broad Wynd opens westward off Water
Lane to the shore. The first number of n e Leith
and Edinburgh TeZegrajh and General Adveriiser,
published 26th July, 1808, by William Oliphant,
and continued until September, 1811, appeared,
and was published by a new proprietor, William
Reid, in the Broad Wynd, where it was continued
till its abandonment, 9th March, 1813,
comprising in all 483 numbers. It was succeeded
by me fiith Commercid List. An extensive
building, of which frequent mention is made by
early historians as the King‘s Wark, seems to have
occupied the whole ground between this and the
present Bernard Street, but the exact purpose for
which it was maintained is not made clear in any
(or Chamber CheiZd, as he was called) to that prince.
This Lindsay repaired or rebuilt the King’s Wark,
and there is special mention of his having put its
anci‘enf imer in full repair. He also built there
a new tenniscourt, which is mentioned with
singular marks of approbation in the royal charter
‘ as being built for the recreation of His Majesty,
and of foreigners of rank resorting to the kingdom,
to whom it afforded great satisfaction and delight j
and as advancing the politeness and contributing
to the ornament of the country, to which, by its
happy situation on the Shore of Leith, where there
was so great a concourse of strangers and foreigners,
it was peculiarly adapted.’”
The reddendo in this charter was uncommon, ... 26th July, 1808, by William Oliphant, and continued until September, 1811, appeared, and was ...

Vol. 6  p. 236 (Rel. 1.13)

CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTROEUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J
CHAPTER I.
P R E H I S T O R I C EDINBURGH.
The Site before the Houses-Traces of Early Inhabitants-The Caledonian Tribes-Agricola's Invasion-Subjection of the Scottish Lowlands
-The Rorrao Way-Edinburgh never occupied permanently-Various Roman Remains : Urns, Coins, Busts ; Swords, Spears, ahd
other Weapons-Ancient Coffins-The Camus, or Cath-st,neOrigin of the name " Edinburgh"-Dinas-Eiddyn-The Battle of Catraeth 9
CHAPTER 11.
THE CASTLE OF EDINBURGH.
Of its Origin and remoter History-The Legends concerning it-Ebranke-St. Monena-Def& of the Sawons by King Bridei-King
Edwin-King Grime-The Story of Grime and Bertha of Badlieu-The Starting paint of authentic Edinburgh History-Sr Margaret
-Het Piety and amiable Disposition-Her Chapel-Her Death-Restoration of her Oratory-Her Burial-Donald Bane-King
David 1.-The Royal Gardens, afterwards the Nonh Loch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I4
CHAPTER 111.
CASTLE OF EDINBURGH (continued).
The Legend of the White Hart-Holyrocd Abbey founded--The Monks of the Castrum Puellarum-David I.% numerous Endowments-His
Death-Fergus. Lord of Galloway, dies there-William the Lion-Castle Garrisoned by the English for Twelve Yean-The Castle a
Royal Residence-The War of the Scottish Succession-The ( h t l e in the hands of Edward 1.-Frank's Escalade-The Lbrtres
Dismantled-Again in the hands of the English-Bullock's Stratagem for its Re-caprurr-David's Tower . . . . . . 21
CHAPTER IV.
CASTLE OF EDINBURGH (confinucd).
Progress of the City-Ambassidor of Charles VI.-Edinburgh burned-Henry IV, baffled-Albmy's Prophecy-Laws lrgvdiog the Building
- of Houses-Sumptuary Laws, 1457-Murder of James I.-Coronationof JarncsI1.-Court Intrigues-Lard Chancellor C r i c h t o n - ~ g ~ c e
of the Earl of Douglas-Faction WaR--l'he Castle Resieged--"The Black Dinner"-Edmburgh Walled-Its Strength -Bale-fires . 26
CHAPTER V.
EDINBURGH CASTLE (continued).
James 111. and his haughty Nobilib-Plots of the Duke of Albany and Earl of Mar-Mysterious Death of Mar-Capture and Escape of the
Duke of Altuny-Captivity of James 111.-Richard of Gloucester at Edinburgh-The "Golden Charter" of the City-"The Blue
Blanket"-Accession of James 1V.-Tournamen%" The Seven Sisters of Bothwick "-The " Fldden Wall"-The Reign of Jarnes V.
-" Cleahse the Causeway !"-Edinburgh under the Factions of Nobles-Hertford Attacks the CastltDeath of Mary of Guise-
Queen Mary's Apartments in the CaStle-BLth of James VI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
CHAPTER VI.
EDINBURGH CASTLE (continued).
The Siege of r573-The City Bombarded from the Castle-Elizabeth's Spy-D~ry's Dispositions for the Siege-Execution of Kirkddy-
Repar of the Ruins-Execution of Mortan-Visit of Charles 1.-Procession to Holymod-Comnation of Charles 1.-The Struggle
against Epiico-Siege of 1640-The Spectre Drummn-Besieged by Cmmwell-Under the Protector-The Restantion-The
Argyles-The Accession of James VI1.-Sentence of the Earl of Argyle-His. clever Escape-Imprisoned lour yms later-The Last
Sleep of ArgylcHis Death-Tolture of Covenaoters-Proclamation of W d l i and Maq-The Siege of 16@-Intewiew between
Gordon and Dundee-The Cas le invested-Rdiant Defeuce-Capitulation of the Duke of Cordon-The Spectre of Claverhouse . 47 ... Loch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I4 CHAPTER 111. CASTLE OF EDINBURGH ( continued ). The Legend of the White ...

Vol. 2  p. 385 (Rel. 1.09)

Canongate.1 GOVERNMENT OF THE BURGH. 3
{oundation charter of the latter, I likewise grant
go the said canons the town of Herbergare, lying
betwixt the said church, and my town (of Edinmunity
had been swept away by the Reformatioa ;
and by the king’s grant a commendator succeeded
the last abbot, enjoying the privileges of the latter,
According to the record books of the Canongate,
it was governed in 1561 by four old bailies, three
deacons, two treasurers, and four councillors,
“chosen and elected;” and, as enacted in 1567,
the council met every eighth day, on fuirsdaye.
The Tolbooth was then, as till a late period, the
council-room, court-house, and place of punishunent
By 1561 the monastic superiority over the combut
the real glory of the Canongate may be said
to have departed with the court when James VI.
succeeded to the throne of England in 1603, though,
as we shall show, it long continued to be a
fashionable quarter of the metropolis even after
the time of the Union.
In pursuing the general history of the suburbs,
we find that in 1609, under favour of James VI.,
when a number of foreigners were introduced into ... of England in 1603, though, as we shall show, it long continued to be a fashionable quarter of the metropolis ...

Vol. 3  p. 3 (Rel. 1.06)

functions ; but, unlike that official, these functions
did not become permanently a part of his office.
At the Union the office of Clerk Register was
preserved with all its dignity and emoluments, and
that the records of Scotland should always remain
in that kingdom. '
The salary of the office was abolished between
186r and 1868; but a select committee was so
strongly irr favour of its maintainance, that it was
restored by the 25th section of the Writs' Registration
Act of the latter year.
Under the Act passed together with the Treaty
of Uiiion, no election of representative peers can
47
take place in Scotland without the presence of ,the
Lord Clerk Register.
Perhaps no holder of this important office ren-
' dered better service than the late Sir Wiliiam
well known for his talents, energy, and great
urbanity of manner. He was born in 1797, and
in 1837 represented Midlothian in the Whig interest.
In 1841 he was returned for the city as one
of its representatives along with Lord Macaulay,
and continued to sit till 1852, and ten years after
was appointed Lord Clerk Register and one result
of the careful charge and supervision he took of
his department, was that the histoid documents ... the city as one of its representatives along with Lord Macaulay, and continued to sit till 1852, and ten years ...

Vol. 2  p. 368 (Rel. 1.02)

University. I COURSE OF STUDIES. 19
~ ~ ~~ - ~~
Save Glasgow, all the Colleges complied with I translate, in the professor’s hearing, Aristotle’s
this requisition, and at a later meeting of the Commissioners,
drafts of the courses used by the
different teachers were presented and read ; but
the zeal of the Church was not attended with any
permanent effect ; for notwithstanding all their
efforts to introduce uniformity, no particular cursus
was ever distinctly agreed upon, and each University
continued to pursue the method to which it had
been used of old.
The professors, however, were not at liberty to
teach any book, or pursue any system they chose.
On the contrary, these matters came under the
scrutiny of the Senatus Academicus of each university,
and in the case of Edinburgh they were,
strangely enough, under the supervision of the Town
Council.
In 1730, when Dr. Stevenson was appointed to
the chair of logic and metaphysics, we get the next
glance at the system of education pursued there.
This professor, whose merits and memory were
long a tradition of the university, was the first
who, in all our Scottish seminaries, ventured to
question the utility of scholastic logic as a study
for youths, and to introduce, in lieu thereof, lectures
of a more miscellaneous nature. He did
not restrict the work of his students to subtle
subjects connected with the dialectics of Aristotle,
but directed their attention to the principles of
composition, and the laws of just criticism ; while,
that he might comply with the practice of the age,
he continued-rather inconsistently it has been
said-to deliver his remarks on English literature,
and the doctrines of French critics such as Dacier
and BOSSU, in Latin.
At that time the hours of assembling were two
o’clock one day, and three another, alternately;
and in the morning, about the conimencement of
each session, the students generally read a book
of the “ Iliad.” ‘‘ Dr. Stevenson,” says Bower in
his “ History,” ‘‘ had two reasons for this : besides
becoming acquainted with the progress which they
made in the Greek language, he wished to begin
with an easy author, that those who were most
deficient might have it in their power to improve
themselves, and come better prepared to the
perusal of such Greek rhetoricians as were afterwards
to be put into their hands ; and it afforded
him an opportunity of commenting upon the
beauties of Homenc poetry, pointing out the
imitations which Virgil, Milton, and others have
borrowed from the great father of the epic poem,
and giving to his pupils such a specimen as was
calculated to incite them to become more familiar
with his works. They next proceeded to read and
Poetics, and Longinus’s Essay on ;he Sublime.
These exercises formed the business of the morning
hour during the session.”
The forenoon he dedicated to the subject he
was more strictly called upon to teach-logic ;
and he was very attentive to this portion of hi5
duty, conceiving it absolutely necessary to give a
clear account of its history and nature, and to
render intelligible to the students the art which
for ages was deemed the only path to science.
When Dr. Stevenson was admitted a professor
Locke‘s philosophy was little known in the Scottish
universities, and he was. the first who attached a
proper value to the speculations of the illustrious
Englishman. These were altogether new to
Stevenson’s Scottish students, and it is said that
it ’required all the familiarity of his illustrations,
and all the forcibility of his address, to enable them
to grasp such abstractions, and to celish inquiries
that explained the operations of the human mind.
He held the chair from 1730 to 1744 He
assembled his students thrice weekly in the afternoon,
and delivered to them a history of philosophy,
using as his text-book the Histurio Ph&
JO&&Z of Heineccius. He also used freely
Diogenes Laertius, Stanley and Brucker’s more
recent works on the same subject. He required
his students to compose a discourse upon a topic
assigned to them, and to contest or define a
philosophical thesis in presence of the principal,
or whoever might be present.
It is necessary to be somewhat minute in some
of these details, as in the history of a university it
is impossible to omit a reference to the method of
instruction adopted at different periods.
In 1695 it was directed that “the courses of all
colleges (in Scotland) should commence on the first
lawful day of November, and continue to the last
day of January thereafter, and that the magistrand
or senior classes were only to continue till the first
of May.”
This was probably to leave time for the necessary
examinations, prior to the annuaI graduation ;
but for many years after the establishment of the
Edinburgh University, the work of the professors
was a system of perpetual drudgery. The classes
assembled in the gloomy buildings of the old rambling
college at six in the morning in winter, at
five in summer ; and were under the eyes of the
teachers till nine.
At ten they met again, and continued their
studies till twelve. At mid-day the regents attended
to confer or dispute. At six an examination
commenced ; and on days set apart for recreation ... ever distinctly agreed upon, and each University continued to pursue the method to which it had been used ...

Vol. 5  p. 19 (Rel. 0.93)

encrusted with legends, dates, and coats of arms,
for ages formed one of the most important features
of the Burghmuir.
This was the mansion of Wrychtis-housis, belonging
to an old baronial family named Napier,
WRIGHT’S HOUSES AND THE BARCLAY CHURCH, FROM BRUNTSFIELD LINKS.
alliances by which the family succession of the
Napiers of the Wrychtis-housis had been continued
from early times.”
By the Chamberlain Rolls, William Napier of
the Wrychtis-housis was Constable of the Castle of
to which additions had been made as generations
succeeded each other, but the original part or
nucleus of which was a simple old Scottish tower
of considerable height. “ The general effect of this
antique pile,” says Wilson, “ was greatly enhanced
on approaching it, by the numerous heraldic
devices and inscriptions which adorned every
window, doorway, and ornamental pinnacle, the
whole wall being crowded with armorial bearings,
designed to perpetuate the memory of the noble
Edinburgh in 1390, in succession to John, Earl of
Carrick (eldest son of King Robert 11.); and it is
most probable that he was the same William
Napier who held that office in 1402, and who,
in the first years of the fifteenth century, with the
aid of Archibald, Earl of Douglas, and the hapless
Duke of Rothesay, maintained that important
fortress against Henry IV. and all the might of
England.
To the gallant resistance made on this occasioo, ... of the Napiers of the Wrychtis-housis had been continued from early times.” By the Chamberlain ...

Vol. 5  p. 32 (Rel. 0.92)

vi OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER XXIII. ,
THE HIGH STREET (continued).
PAGR ' The Black Turnpike-Bitter Reception of Quem Mary-Lambie's Bannei-Mary in the Black Turnpike-The House of Fenton-Its
Picturesque Appearance-The House of Bassandyne the Printer, 1574-" Bishop's Land," Town House of AKhbhhop Spottiswood-
Its various Tenants-% Stuart Thriepland-The Town-house of ths Hendersons of Fordel-The Lpdging of the Earls of Crawford-
The First Shop of Allan Rams.g-The Religious Feeling of the People-Ancrum House-The First Shop of .Constable and Co.-
Manners and Millar, Booksellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
- CHAPTER XXV.
THE HIGH STREET (coalinued).
The Neighbourhood of Knox's House-Mmerino Mansion-Singular Accident-The Knos Memorial ChurchSociety CI-John
Knox's House-The '' Preaching Window "-His Wives-Attempted Aqmsination-Last Sermon-Death and Burial-James of
Jerusalem-House of Archbishop Sharp-The Birthplace of W i l l i FaIconef-Old Excise Offices-The Nether Bow Part-The
Earlier Gate-Th; Regent Morton's Surp<se Party-Tne Last Gate-Its Demolition . . . . . . . . . . 212
CHAPTER XXV.
THE HIGH STREET (continued).
Thz Ancient Markets-The House of Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney-The Bishop and Queen Mary-His Sister Anne-Sir William Dick
of Braid-His Colossal Wealth-Hard Furtune-lhe "Lamentable State "-Advocates' Close-Sir lames S.ewart's Holm-Andrew
CroSbie, *' Counsehx Pleydell "-Scougal's House-His Picture Gallery-Roxburgbe Close-Warriston's Close-Lord Philiphaugh's
House-Bmce of Binning's Mansion-Mess=. W. and R. Chambers's Printing and Publishing Establishment--History of the Firm-
House of Sir Thomas Craig-Sir Archibald Johnston of Wariston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE HIGH STREET (continued).
M q Rig's Cke-Who was Mary ?-Scourged by the Plague of *s-Its Mystery-Drummond's Epigram-hf. Sirtclaifs 'I Satan's
' Invklble World Discovered $'-MT. and Mrs. Coltheart's Ghostly Visitors-The Close finally abandoned to Goblins-Craig's Close-
Andro Hart, Bookseller and Printer-Andro Hart's Spear-A Menagefie in Craig's ClostThe Isle of Man Arms-The Cape Club-
Its Mysteries and OCcegInstallation of a Knight-Provincial Cape ClubbThe Poker ClukHow it Originated-Membm-
Office-bearc+OId Stamp Office Court-Fortune's Tavern-The beautiful Countess of Eglinton-Her Patronage of Letters-Her
Family-Interview with Dr. Johnson-Murderous Riot in the Close-Removal of the Stamp Office . . . . . . . 227
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE HIGH STREET (continued).
Tie Anchor Close-Dawney Douglas% Taw-The 'a Crnwn Rwm"-The Crochallan Club-Members-Burns among the Crochallan
Fencihles-Smellie's Printing Of5ctDandas's House, Fleshmarket Clo~-Mylne's Squue-Lord Alva's How-The Countess of
Sutherland and Lady Glenorchy-Birthplace of Fergucson-Halkerston's Wynd Port-Kinloch's Close-Carmbber's Close-The
Episcopal Chapel-Clam Shell Land--Captain Matthew Henderson-Allan Ramsay's Theatre-Its later Tenants-The Tailor's Hall-
Bailie Fyfe's Closc-" Heave awa' lads, I'm no deid yet "-Chalmers' Close-Hope's House-Sandiland's Close-Bishop Kennedy's
Housc-Grant's Close-Baron Grant's H-se . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE HIGH STREET (continre.l).
The Salamander Land "-The Old Fihmarka Close-Heriot's Mansion-The Decnste<s Hmse-Borthwick's ClostLmd Durie's House
-Old Assembly Rooms-Edinburgh Assemblies, I/ZO-S3-MiSS Nicky Murray-Formalities of the Balls-Ladies' Fashions-Assemblies
Removed to Bell's Wynd-Blair Street and Hunter's Square-Kennedy's Close-George Buchanan's Death--Nidd,y's Wynd-Nicoi
Edwards' House-A Case of Homicide in 1597-A Quack Dacta-Livingstone's Liberty . . . . . . . . . . 24."
,
CHAPTER XXIX.
THE HIGH STREET (confinued.)
Niddry's Wynd --Provast Edwads House-Lmkhart's Court-St. Mary's Chapel-Masonic Lodge Meetings-Vintess Glenorchy-The
Story of Lady Graoge-St. Cecili'. Hall-Its Old-fashioned Concerts-The Belles of the Etghteenth Century-The Name Niddry . 246
. CHAPTER XXX.
THE HIGH STREET (confinued).
Dicksons' and Cant's Closes-The House of the " Scottish Hogarth and the Knight of Tillybole-Rosehaugh's, or Strichen's, Close-House
of the Abbots of Melrose-Sir George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh-Lady Anne Dick-Lord Strichen-The Manners of 1730-Provost
Griey-John Dhu, Corporal of the City Guard-Lady Lovdtk Land-Walter Chapman, Printer-Lady Lovat . . . . . 253 ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER XXIII. , THE HIGH STREET ( continued ). PAGR ' The Black Turnpike-Bitter ...

Vol. 2  p. 388 (Rel. 0.91)

High Street.] THE QUACK DOCTOR’S ACROBATS. 201
an audience. Then he began to vend his drugs
at eightpence per packet. Nicoll admits that they
were both good and real, and describes the antics
of the assistants.
Upon a great rope, fixed from side to side of
the street, a man descended upon his breast with
~ ~ ~~~~
danced seven-score times, without intermission,
lifting himself and vaulting s k quarter high above
his own head and lighting directly upon the tow
(rope) as punctually as if he had been dancing on
the plain stones.”
Four years after a different scene was witnessed
THE NETHER BOW PORT, FROM THE CANONGATE. ( F m an Etcking6y Jams SKrrrc of RdGhw.)
his arms “stretched out like the wings of a fowl,
to the admiration of many.” Nicoll adds that the
country chirurgeons and apothecaries, finding his
drugs both cheap and good, came to Edinburgh
from all parts of the realm, and bought them for
the purpose of retailing them at a profit. The
antics and rope-dancing were continued for many
days with an agility and nimbleness “admirable
to the beholders; one of the dancers having
28
in the High Street, when, in 1666, after the battle
of the Pentland Hills-a victory celebrated by
the discharge of nearly as many guns from the
Castle as there were prisoners-the captives were
marched to the Tolbooth. They. were eighty
in number; and these poor Covenanters were
conveyed manacled in triumph by the victor,
with trumpets sounding, kettle-drums beating, and
banners displayed. And Crookshank records in ... them at a profit. The antics and rope-dancing were continued for many days with an agility and nimbleness ...

Vol. 2  p. 201 (Rel. 0.9)

THE CANONGATE TOLBOOTH.
OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. -
CHAPTER I.
THE CANONGATE.
Its Origin-Songs concerning it-Records-Market Cross-St. Job’s and the Girth Crosses-Early Hktory-The Town of H~bcrgarc-
Canongate Paved-The Governing Body-Fbising the DeviL-Purchase of the Earl of Roxburgh‘s ‘‘ Superiority ”-The Foreign Settlement
-Gorge Heriot the Elder-Huntly’s House-Sir Walter Scott’s Story of a Fire-The Morocco Land-Houses of Oliphant of Nmland,
Ltrd David Hay, and Earl of Angus-Jack’s Land-Shoemakers’ Lands-Marquiz of Huntly’s How-Nisbet of Dirleton’s Mansion-
Golfer’s Land-John and Nicol Patemn-The Porch and Gatehouse of the Abbey-Lucky Spence.
THE Canongate-of old the Court-end of Edinburgh-
takes its name from the Augustine monks
of Holyrood, who were permitted to build it by
the charter of David I. in I I 28, and to rule it as a
burgh of regality. “The canons,” says Chalmers,
.<‘‘ were empowered to settle here a village, and from
them the street of this settlement was called the
Canongate, from the Saxon gaet, a way or street,
40
according to’the practice of the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries in Scotland and England. The
irnmunities which the canons and their villagers enjoyed
from David’s grant, soon raised up a town,
which extended from the Abbey to the Nether
Port of Edinburgh, and the townsmen performed
their usual devotions in the church of the Abbey
till the Reformation,” after which it continued to ... performed their usual devotions in the church of the Abbey till the Reformation,” after which it continued ...

Vol. 3  p. 1 (Rel. 0.88)

iv OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER VII.
PAGE
EDINBURGH CASTLE (conclzded). .
The Torture of Neville Payne-Jacobite Plots-Entombing the Regalia-Project for Surprising the Foltress-Right of Sanctuary Abolished
-Lord Drummond's Plot-Some Jacobite Prisoners-'' Rebel Ladies"- James Macgregor-The Castle Vaults-Attempts at Escape-
Fears as to the Destruction of the Crown, Sword, and Sceptre-Crown-room opened in 1794-Again in 1817, and the Regalia brought
forth-Mons Megseneml Description of the whole Castle . . . : . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
CHAPTER VIII. .
THE CA~STLE HILL.
Doyglas-Castle Hill Promenade-Question as to the Proprietary of the Esplanade and Castle Hill . . . . . . . .
The Esplanade or Castle Hill-The Castle Banks-The Celtic Crosses-The Secret Passage and Well house Tower-The Church on the Castle
Hill-The Reservoir-The House of Allan Ramsay-Executions for Treason, Sorcery, &.-The Master of Forbes-Lady Jane
79
CHAPTER IX.
THE CASTLE HILL (conczuded).
'Dr. Guthrie's O~pinal Ragged School-Old Homes in the Street of the Castle Hill-Duke of Gordon's House, Blair's Close-Webster's Close
-Dr. Alex. Webster-Eoswell s Court-Hyndford House-Assembly Hdl-Houses of the Marquis of Argyle, Sir Andrew Kennedy, the
Earl of Cassillis, the Laud of cockpen--Lord Semple's House-Lord Semple-Fah of Mary of Guise-Its Fate . . . . 87
CHAPTER X.
T H E LAWNMARKET.
The Lawnmarket-RiSjt-The Weigh-houstMajor Somerville and captain Crawford-AndeMn's Pills-Myhe's Court-James's Gourt-Sir
John Lauder-Sir Islay Campbell-David Hume--" Cprsica" Boswell-Dr. Johnso-Dr. Blki-" Gladstone's Land "-A Fire in 1771 94
CHAPTER XI.
THE LAWNMARKET (continued).
Lady Stair's Close-Gray of Pittendrum-"Aunt Margaret's M rror"-The Marshal Earl and Countess of Stair-Miss Feme-Sir Richard
Steel-Martha Countess of Kincardine-Bums's Room in Barfer's C1o.e-The Eridges' Shop ih Bank Stxet-Bailie MacMorran's
Story-Sir Francis Grant of Cullen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I02
CHAPTER XII.
THE LAWNMARKET' (continued).
The Story of Deacon Brodie-His Career of Guilt-Hanged on his own Gibbet-Mauchine's Close, Robet? Gourlay's Hoiise and the other
Old Houses therein-The Rank of Scotland, 16~5-Assassination of Sir Gorge hckhart-Taken Red Hand-Punishment of Chiesly I12
CHAPTER XIII.
THE LAWNMARKET (concluded).
Gosford's Close- The Town House of the Abbot of Cambu~kcnncth-Tennant's House-Mansion of the Hays-Liberton's Wynd-Johnnie
Dowie's Tavern-Burns a d His Songs-The Place of Execution-Birthplace of "The Man of Feeling"-The Mirror Club-
Forrester's Wynd-The Heather Stacks in the Houses-Peter Williamn-Beith's Wynd-Habits of the Lawnmarket Woollen
Traders-"Lawnmarket Gazettes "-Melbourne Place-The County Hall-The Signet and Advocates' Libraries . . . . . I I8
CHAPTER XIV.
T H E TOLBOOTH.
Memori-1s of the Heart of Midlothian, or Old Tolbooth-Sir Walter Scott's Description-The Early Tolhth-The "Robin Hod"
Disturbances-Noted Prison-Entries from the Records--Lord Burleigh's Attempts at Escape-The Porteous Mob-The Stories
of Katherine Nairne and of Jam- Hay-The Town Guard-The Royal Bedesmen . . . . . . . . . . . . 12; ... Hume--" Cprsica" Boswell-Dr. Johnso-Dr. Blki-" Gladstone's Land "-A Fire in ...

Vol. 2  p. 386 (Rel. 0.84)

Leaving his queen in the then solitary Castle,
Grime (who, according to Buchanan, began his
reign in the year 996) often pursued the pleasures
of the chase among the wilds of Polmood, in the
probably a remnant of Edwin's departed power,
and from this period begins the authentic history
of Edinburgh and its castle, as from that
time it continued to be almost permanently the
Bertha, her aged father, and infant son, and, burying
them in one grave, heaped above it a rough
tumulus, which still marks the spot.
Full of remorse and fear, the queen died before
the return of Grime, who, after defeating the
Danes, and destroying their galleys, hastened to
this invests the solemn event with a peculiar charm.
The grand-niece of Edward the Confessor, she
had fled from her own country on the usurpation of
Harold, but was wrecked on the Forth, at the place
still called Queensferry. She and her retinue
were hospitably entertained by Malcolm III., who
successor, was deserted in battle by his warriors,
taken captive, and, after having his eyes put out,
died in grief and misery in the eighth year of his
reign.
He was succeeded, in 1004, by Maicolm II.,
who had Lothian formally ceded to him by Eadulf-
Cudel, Earl of Northumberland, who had pre-
Viously exercised some right of vassalage over it,
wife, of Malcolm, in the lines spoken hy Macduff,
Macbeth, Act iv., scene 3 :-
" The queen that bore thee,
Oftener upon her knees than on her feet,
Died every day she lived."
In 1091 William Rufus made war on Scotland,
and, taking the castle of Alnwick by surprise,
wantonly put its garrison to the sword. Malcolm.
coat of arms ... history of Edinburgh and its castle, as from that time it continued to be almost permanently the Bertha, her ...

Vol. 1  p. 16 (Rel. 0.84)

Leith.] REPULSE OF THE ENGLISH AND SCOTS. I77
Cornelle, Shelly, Littleton, Southworthe, and nine
other officers, with 2,240 men.
To keep the. field (i.~., the Reserve), Captain
Somerset, and eight other captains, with 2,400
men.
“Item ; it is ordered that the Vyce Admyralle
of the Queen’s Majesty’s schippes shall, when a
token is given, send Vc. (500) men out of the
Navye into the haven of Leythe, to give an assaulte
on the side of the towne, at the same instant when
the assaulte shal be gevene on the breche.”
Captain Vaughan was ordered to assault the
town near Mount Pelham, and the Scots on the
westward and seaward.
The assault was not made until the 7th of May,
when it was delivered at seven in the morning on
dead they could find, and suspended the corpses
along the sloping faces of the ramparts, where they
remained for several days. The failure of the
attempted storm did not very materially affect the
blockade. On the contrary, the besiegers still continued
to harass the town by incessant cannonading
from the mounds already formed and others they
erected One of the former, Mount Falcon, must
have been particularly destructive, as its guns swept
the most crowded part of Leith called the Shore,
along which none could pass but at the greatest
hazard of death. Moreover, the English were
barbarously and uselessly cruel. Before burning
Leith mills they murdered in cold blood every
individual found therein.
The close siege had now lasted about two months,
PROSPECT OF LEITH, 1693. (Reduced Facainrilc aftw Grernvillr Coil us.)
four quarters, but, for some reason not given, the
fleet failed to act, and by some change in the plans
Sir James Crofts was ordered, with what was deemed
a sufficient force, to assail the town on the north
side, at the place latterly called the Sand Port,
where at low water an entrance was deemed easy.
For some reason best known to himself Sir James
thought proper to remain aloof during the whole
uproar of the assault, the ladders provided for
which proved too short by half a pike’s length;
thus he was loudly accused of treachery-a charge
which was deemed sufficiently proved when it was
discovered that a few days before he had been seen
in conversation with the Queen Regent, who addressed
him from the walls of Edinburgh Castle.
The whole affair turned out a complete failure,
English and Scots were alike repulse2 r%Ah slaughter,
“and singular as it may appear,” says a writer,
“ the success of the garrison was not a little aided
by the exertionsof certain ladies, whom the French,
with their usual gallantry to the fair sex, entertained
in their quarters.” To these fair ones Knox
applies some pretty rough epithets.
The French now made a sally, stripped all the
110
without any prospect of a termination, though
Elizabeth continued to send more men and more
ships ; but the garrison were reduced to such dire
extremities that for food they were compelled to
shoot and eat all the horses of the. officers and
gens Zurmes. Yet they endured their privations
with true French sung froid, vowing never to surrender
while a horse was left, <‘their officers exhibiting
that politeness in the science of gastronomy
which is recorded of the Margchal Strozzi, whose
maifre de cuisine maintained his master‘s table with
twelve covers every day, although he had nothing
better to set upon it now and then except the
quarter of a carrion horse, dressed with the grass
and weeds that grew upon the ramparts.”
The discovery, a few years ago, of an ancient
well filled to its brim with cart-loads of horses’
heads, near the head of the Links, was a singular
but expressive monument of the resolution with
which the town was defended
The unfortunate Queen Regent did not live to
see the end of these affairs. She was sinking
fast. She had contemplated retiring to France,
and had a commission executed at Blois by Francis ... the blockade. On the contrary, the besiegers still continued to harass the town by incessant ...

Vol. 5  p. 177 (Rel. 0.83)

256 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate.
Mr. Andrew Anderson, printer to the King’s most
Excellent Majesty, for Mr. Andrew Symson, and
which must unhesitatingly be pronounced to be
superior in elegance to almost any other doors
given to modem houses either in Edinburgh or in
London. On a frieze between the mouldings is a
legend in a style of lettering and orthography which
speaks of the close of the fifteenth century :-
GIF . YE . DEID . AS , YE . SOULD . YE
MYCHT . HAIF . AS ,,YE , VULD,
In modem English, ‘If we died as we should, we
might have as we would.’ There is unfortunately
no trace of the man who built the house and put
upon it this characteristic apophthegm; ,but it is
known that the upper floors were occupied about
(before?) 1700 by the worthy Andro Syrnson, who
having been ousted from his charge as an episcopal
minister at the Revolution, continued to make a
living here by writing and printing books.”
Symson had been curate of Kirkinner,inGalloway,
a presentation to him by the earl of that title, and
was the author of an elaborate work, and mysterious
poem of great length, issued from his printinghouse
at the foot of the Horse Wynd,- entitled,
“Tripatriarchicor; or the lives of the three patriarchs,
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, extracted forth of
are to be sold by him in the Cowgate, near the
foot of the Hose Wynd, Anno Dom. 1699.”
The Horse Wynd which once connected the
Cowgate with the open fields on the south of the
city, and was broad enough for carriages in days
before such vehicles were known, is supposed to
have derived its name from an inn which occupied.
the exact site of the Gaelic church which was
erected there in 1815, after the building in the
Castle Wynd was abandoned, and which ranked
as a quoad suoa parish church after 1834, though
it was not annexed to any separate territory. It
was seated for 1,166, and cost ;t;3,000, but was
swept away as being in the line of the present
Chambers Street. ,
COLLEGE WYND. (From a Drawinf 6y Willinffl Channing.) ... his charge as an episcopal minister at the Revolution, continued to make a living here by writing and printing ...

Vol. 4  p. 256 (Rel. 0.79)

The West Bow.]
A BITTER personal quarrel had existed for some
years between James Johnstone of Westerhall and
Hugh (from his bulk generally known as Braid
Hugh) Somerville of the Writes, and they had
often fought with their swords and parted on equal
temis. Somerville, in the year 1596, chancing to
be in Edinburgh on private business, was one day
loitering about the head of the Bow, when, by
chance, Westerhall was seen ascending the steep
and winding street, and at that moment some
officious person said, “ There is Braid Hugh
Somerville of the Writes.”
THE OLD ASSEMBLIES. 3’5
Westerhall, conceiving that his enemy was lingering
there either in defiance, or to await him, drew
his sword, and crying, “Turn, villain!” gave
Somerville a gash behind the head, the most severe.
wound he had ever inflicted, and which, according
to the “ Memoirs of the Somervilles,” was “ much
regrated eftirwards by himselt”
Writes, streaming with blood, instantly drew his
sword, and ere Westerhall could repeat the stroke,
put him sharply on his defence, and being the
taller and stronger man of the two, together with
the advantage given by the slope, he pressed him
could retire for refreshments, or to rosin their bows.
Here then did the fair dames of Queen Anne’s
time, in their formal stomachers, long gloves, ruffles
and lappets, meet in the merry country dance, or
the stately minuef de la (our, the beaux of the time,
with their squarecut velvet coats and long-flapped
waistcoats, with sword, ruffles, and toupee in tresses,
when the news was all about the battle of Almanza,
the storming of Barcelona, or the sinking of the
Spanish galleons by Benbow in the West Indies,
or it might be-in whispers-of the unfurling of the
standard on the Braes of Mar.
The regular assembly, according to Arnot, was
. first held in the year 17 10, and it continued entirely
hnder private management till 1746, but though
the Scots as a nation are passionately fond of
dancing, the strait-laced part of the community
bitterly inveighed against this infant institution.
In the Library of the Faculty of Advocates there
is a curious little pamphlet, entitled, a “Letter
from a Gentleman iti the Country to his Friend in
the City, with an Answer thereto concerning the
New Assembly,” which affords a remarkable glimpse
of the bigotry of the time :-
“I am informed that there is lately a society
erected in your town, which I think is called an
Assembly. The speculations concerning this meeting
have of late exhausted the most part of the
public conversation in this countryside :. some are
pleased to say that ’tis only designed to cultivate
polite conversation, and genteel behaviouramong the
better sort of folks, and to give young people an
opportunity of accomplishing themselves in both ;
while others are of opinion that it will have quite a
different effect, and tends to vitiate and deprave the:
minds and inclinations of the younger sort.”
The author, who might have been Davie Deans
himself, and who writes in 1723, adds that he had
been much stirred on this matter by the approaching
solemnity of the Lord’s Supper, and that he had
been “informed that the design of this (weekly)
meeting was to afford some ladies an opportunity
to alter the station that they had long fretfully continued
in, and to set off others as they should
prove ripe for the market.”
The old Presbyterian abhorrence of ‘‘ promiscuous
dancing” was only held in check by the
less strait-laced spirit of the Jacobite gentry; but
so great was the opposition to the Edinburgh
Assembly, as Jackson tells us in his “History of
the Stage,” that a furious rabble once attacked
the rooms, and perforated the closed doors with
red-hot spits.
Arnot says that the lady-directress sat at the
head of the room, wearing the badge of heroffice,
a gold medal with a motto and device,
emblematic of charity and parental tenderness.
After several years of cessation, under the effect.
of local mal-influence, when the Assembly was
re-constituted in 1746, among the regulations hung
up in the hall, were tko worth quoting :-
“No lady to be admitted in a nz$f-gowr
(negl&i?), and no gentleman in boots.”
‘‘ No misses in skirts and jackets, robe-coats, nor.
staybodied-gowns, to be allowed to dance in country
dances, but in a set by themselves.” ... to Arnot, was . first held in the year 17 10, and it continued entirely hnder private management till 1746, ...

Vol. 2  p. 315 (Rel. 0.78)

your king, and will yield it to no power whatever.
But I respect that of the Parliament, and require
six days to consider its demand; for most important
is my charge, and my councillors, alas ! are
now few,” she added, bursting into tears, probably
as she thought of the many
“ Who on Flodden’s trampled sod,
Rendered up their souls to God.”
For their king and for their country,
Alarmed at a refusal so daring, Angus entreated
PLAN OF EDINRURGH, SHOWING THE FLODDEN WALL. (Snscd on &rdon of Rothiemy’s Mnp, 1647.)
her brother, Henry VIII., by complaining that she
had been little else than a captive in the Castle
Edinburgh.
Meanwhile the Duke of Albany had taken UP
his residence at Holyrood, and seems to have proceeded,
between 1515-16, with the enlargement
the royal buildings attached to the Abbey House,
in continuation of the works carried on there by
the late king, till the day of Flodden. Throughout
the minority of James V. Edinburgh continued tO
her to obey the Estates, and took an instrument
to the effect that he had no share in it; but she
remained inexorable, and the mortified delegates
returned to report the unsuccessful issue of their
mission. Aware that she was unable to contend
with the Estates, she secretly retired with her sons
to Stirling, and, after placing them in charge of the
Lords Borthwick and Fleming, returned to her
former residence, though, according to Chalmers,
she had no right of dowry therein. Distrusting the
people, and, as a Tudor, distrusted by them, she
remained aloof from all, until one day, escorted
by Lord Home and fifty lances, she suddenly rode
to the Castle of Blackadder (near Berwick), from
be disturbed by the armed contentions of the
nobles, especially those of Angus and Arran ; and
in a slender endeavour to repress this spirit the
salary of the Provost was augmented, and a small
guard of halberdiers was appointed to attend him.
Among those committed prisoners to the Castle
by Albany were the Lord Home and his brother
William for treason; they escaped, but were retaken,
and beheaded 16th October, 1516, and
their heads were placed on the Tolbooth.* Huntly
and Moray were next prisoners, for fighting at the
head of their vassals in the streets; and the next
was Sir Lewk Stirling, for an armed brawl.
-- ... of Flodden. Throughout the minority of James V. Edinburgh continued tO her to obey the Estates, and took an ...

Vol. 1  p. 40 (Rel. 0.74)

CANNONGATE
trespasses. This was the case with Mrs. Bellamy.
Her waiting-maid, Anne Waterstone, who is mentioned
in her ‘Memoirs,’ lived many years after in
Edinburgh, and continued to the last to adore the
memory of her mistress. Nay, shc was, from this
cause, a zealous friend of all players, and would
never allow a slighting replark upon them to pass
unreproved. It was curious to find in a poor old
Scotchwoman of the humbler class such a sympathy
with the follies and eccentricities of the children
of Thespis.”
The erection of the New Theatre Royal in the
extended royalty eclipsed its predecessor in the
MRS. BELLAMY.
in Peter Williamson’s Directory” as an “ Excellent
Shoemaker and Leather Tormentor.”
The adjoining alley, St. John’s Close, is open
towards St. John’s Street. Narrow and ancient, it
shows over a door-lintel on its west side the
legend, within a sunk panel, THE LORD IS ONLY MY
SUPORT.
Near this a spacious elliptical archway gives
access to St. John’s Street, so named with reference
to St. John’s Cross, a broad, airy, and handsome
thoroughfare, “one of the heralds of the New
Town,” and associated with the names of many of
the Scottish aristocracy who lingered in the old
The doorway is but three feet wide.
25
- -
that Mrs. Bellamy was extremely fond of singing
birds, and when visiting Glasgow was wont to have
them carried by a porter all the way, lest they
might suffer by the jolting of a carriage, and
people wondered to hear of ten guineas being
expended for such a purpose. Persons under
the social ban for their irregular lives often win the
love of individuals by their benevolence and sweetness
of disposition-qualities, it is to be remarked,
the old Playhouse Close, is a fine specimen of the
Scottish street architecture in the time of Charles I.
It has a row of dormer windows, with another of
storm-windows on a steep roof, that reminds one
of those in Bruges and Antwerp. Over a doorway
within the close is an ornamental tablet, the
inscription on which has become defaced, and the
old theatre itself has long since given place to
private dwellings, In one of these lived, in 1784,
CHESSEL’S BUILDINGS. (From a Drawirg 6y Sforrr,prtblislred in 1820.) ... ‘Memoirs,’ lived many years after in Edinburgh, and continued to the last to adore the memory of her ...

Vol. 3  p. 25 (Rel. 0.73)

North Bridge.] LADY GLENORCHY. 361
they dispensed with the ‘moderation of the call,’
a form about which they stickle zealously, if by it
they could get a minister presented by the legal
patron to be rejected; while they did not insist
upon the stipend being properly secured ; while
they agreed to permit Lady Glenorchy to dispose
without control, upon those pious offerings which
should have been applied towards the support of
the chanty workhouse; while they, in fact, eluded
that right of patronage over all churches in this city,
the chapel to all the privileges it had enjoyed
by the countenance and protection of the
Presbytery.
In 1776 Lady Glenorchy invited Dr. Thomas
Snell Jones, a Wesleyan Methodist, to accept the
charge of her chapel, and after being ordained to
the office of pastor by the Scottish Presbytery of
London he became settled as incumbent on the
25th of July, 1779, and from that date continued
to labour as such, until about three years before his
holding communion with the Established ministers,
which is vested in the magistrates of Edinburgh ;
and while they had no powver to depose from the
benefice in this chapel the minister installed by
them in case of his errors in life or doctrine !”
To avoid unpleasantness, Mr. Balfour, like Mr.
Grove, declined the charge.
It was now that the matter came before the
Synod, which not only gave judgment in the
matter, but forbade all ministers or probationers
within their bounds to preach in this unlucky
chapel, or to employ the minister of it in any
capacity. From this sentence the Presbytery of
Edinburgh appealed to the next General Assembly
of the Church, which reversed it, and restored
46
death, which occurred on the 3rd of March, 1837,
a period of nearly fiRyeight years.
He preached the funeral sermon on the demise
of Lady Glenorchy on the 17th July, 1786, in
her forty-fourth year. She was buried, by her
own desire, in avault in the centre of the chapel
By a settlement made some time before her death,
she endowed the latter with a school which wac
built near it. Therein, a hundred poor children
were taught to read and write. It was managed
by trustees, with instructions which secure its perpetuity.
Lady Glenorchy’s Free Church schooI is
now at Greenside.
In I 792 Dr. Jones had as a colleague, Dr. Greville
Ewing, afterwards editor of 2’’ Missionary ... incumbent on the 25th of July, 1779, and from that date continued to labour as such, until about three years ...

Vol. 2  p. 361 (Rel. 0.72)

Parliament House.] TREATY OF UNION. 163
to regain the throne; for the proposed union
with England had inflamed to a perilous degree
the passions and the patriotism of the nation.
In August the equivalent money sent to Scotland
as a blind to the people for their full participation
in the taxes and old national debt of England, was
pompously brought to Edinburgh m twelve great
waggons, and conveyed to the Castle, escorted by
a regiment of Scottish cavalry, as Defoe tells us,
amid the railing, the reproaches, and the deep
curses of the people, who then thought of nothing
but war, and viewed the so-called equivalent as
the price of their Scottish fame, liberty, and
honour.
In their anathemas, we are told that they spared
not the very horses which drew the waggons, and on
the return of the latter from the fortress their fury
could no longer be restrained, and, unopposed by
the sympathising troops, they dashed the vehicles
to pieces, and assailed the drivers with volleys of
stones, by which many of them were severely
injured.
“It was soon discovered, after all,” says Dr.
Chambers, “ that only LIOO,OOO of the money was
specie, the rest being iu Exchequer bills, which the
Bank of England had ignorantly supposed to be
welcome in all parts of Her Majesty’s dominions.
This gave rise to new clamours. It was said the
English had tricked them by sending paper instead
of money. Bills, payable 400 miles of, and which
if lost or burned would be irrecoverable, were a
pretty price for the obligation Scotland had come
under to pay English taxes.’’
In the following year, during the sitting of the
Union Parliament, a terrible tumult arose in the
west, led by two men named Montgomery and
Finlay. The latter had been a sergeant in the
Royal Scots, and this enthusiastic veteran burned
the articles of Union at the Cross of Glasgow, and
with the little sum he had received on his discharge,
enlisted men to march to Edinburgh, avowing his
intention of dispersing the Union Parliament,
sacking the House, and storming the Castle. I n
the latter the troops were on the alert, and the
guns and beacons were in readiness. The mob
readily enough took the veteran’s money, but
melted away on the march ; thus, he was captured
and brought in a prisoner to the Castle, escorted by
250 dragoons, and the Parliament continued its
sitting without much interruption.
The Articles of Union were framed by thirty
commissioners acting for England and thirty acting
for Scotland ; and though the troops of both COUTI’
tries were then fighting side by side on the Continent,
such were their mutual relations on each side
of the Tweed, that, as Macaulay says, they could
not possibly have continued for one year more ‘‘ on
the terms on which they had been during the
preceding century, and that there must have been
between them either absolute union or deadly
enmity; and their enmity would bring frightful
calamities, not on themselves alone, but on all the
civilised world Their union would be the best
security for the prosperity of both, for the internal
tranquillity of the island, for the just balance of
power among European states, and for the immunities
of all Protestant countries.”
As the Union debates went on, in vain did the
eloquent Belhaven, on his knees and in tears,
beseech the House to save Scotland from extinction
and degradation; in vain did the nervous
Fletcher, the astute and wary Lockhart, plead for
the fame of their forefathers, and denounce the
measure which was to close the legislative hall
for ever. “ Many a patriotic heart,” says Wilson,
“ throbbed amid the dense crowd that daily assembled
in the Parliament Close, to watch the decision
of the Scottish Estates oa the detestable scheme
of a union with England. Again and again its fatetrembled
in the balance, but happily for Scotland,
English bribes outweighed the mistaken qeal ot
Scottish patriotism and Jacobitism, united against
the measure.”
On the 25th of March, 1707, the treaty or
union was ratified by the Estates, and on the zznd
of April the ancient Parliament of Scotland adjourned,
to assemble no more. On that occasion
the Chancellor Seafield made use of a brutal jest,
for which, says Sir Walter Scott, his countrymen
should have destroyed him on the spot.
It is, of course, a matter of common history,
that the legislative union between Scotland and
England was carried by the grossest bribery and
corruption; but the sum actually paid to members
who sat in that last Parliament are not perhaps
so well known, and may be curious to the
reader.
During some financial investigations which were
in progress in 1711 Lockhart discovered and
made public that the sum of Lzo,540 17s. 7d. had
been secretly distributed by Lord Godolphin, the
Treasurer of England, among the baser members ot
the Scottish Parliament, for the purpose of inducing
them to vote for the extinction of thek country,
and in his Memoirs of Scotland from the Accession
of Queen Anne,” he gives us the following list of
the receivers, with the actual sum which was paid
to each, and this list was confirmed on oath hy
David Earl of Glasgow, the Treasurer Deputy of
Scotland .
I
. ... Castle, escorted by 250 dragoons, and the Parliament continued its sitting without much interruption. The ...

Vol. 1  p. 163 (Rel. 0.72)

c
152 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH, [Leith Walk,
In I 748 the thoroughfare is described as “a very
handsome gravel walk, twenty feet broad, which is
kept in good repair at the public expense, and no
horses suffered to come upon it.” In 1763 two
stage coaches, with three horses, a driver, and
postilion each, ran between Edinburgh and Leith
every hour, consuming an hour on the way, from
8 a.m. to 8 p.m. ; and at that time there were no
other stage coaches in Scotland, except one which
set out at long intervals for London.
Before that nothing had been done, though in
1774 the Week0 Magazine announced that “a new
road for carriages is to be made betwixt Edinburgh
and Leith. It is to be continued from the end of
the New Bridge by the side of Clelland’s Gardens
and Leith Walk. [Clelland‘s Feu was where Leith
Terrace is now.] We hear that the expense of it
is to be defrayed by subscription.”
In I779 Arnot states that “so great is the concourse
of people passing between Edinburgh and
HIGH STREET, PORTOBELLO.
In 1769, when Provost Drummond built the
North Bridge, he gave out that it was to improve
the access to Leith, and on this pretence, to conciliate
opposition to his scheme, upon the plate in
the foundation-stone of the bridge it is solely described
as the opening of a new road to Leith;
and after it was opened the Walk became freely
used for carriages, but without any regard being
paid to its condition, or any system established
for keeping it in repair ; thus, consequently, it fell
into a state of disorder “from which it was not
rescued till after the commencement of the present
century, when a splendid causeway was formed at
a great expense by the city of Edinburgh, and a
toll erected for its payment.”
Leith, and so much are the stage coaches employed,
that they pass and re-pass between these towns
156 times daily. Each of these carriages holds
four persons.” The fare in some was 2hd.; in
others, gd.
In December, 1799, the Herald announces that
the magistrates had ordered forty oil lamps for
Leith Walk, ‘‘ which necessary k~iprovement,” adds
the editor, will, we understand, soon tzke place.”
Among some reminiscences, which appeared
about thirty years ago, we. have a description of
Anderson’s Leith stage, ‘ I which took an hour and
a half to go from the Tron Church to the shore. A
great lumbering affair on four wheels, the two fore
1 painted yellow, the two hind red, having formerly ... is to be made betwixt Edinburgh and Leith. It is to be continued from the end of the New Bridge by the side of ...

Vol. 5  p. 152 (Rel. 0.72)

380 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [South Bridge.
~~ ~~~
mechanics, and such other branches of science as
were necessary in their various crafts, an association
was formed, and with this general object in view
the School of Arts was duly inaugurated on the
16th of October, ISPI, by a meeting at which the
Lord Provost, afterwards Sir William Arbuthnot,
Bart., presided. The two leading classes then
established, and which continue to this day to be
fundamental subjects of education in the school,
were Chemistry and Mechanical or Natural Philosophy.
The first meetings of the school were in a
General Hope, it was resolved that an edifice
should be erected with that view, appropriate to
the name and character of Watt, and that it should
be employed for the accommodation of the School
of Arts and to promote the interests of the class
from which he sprang.
The directors had by them L400, which they
resolved to add as a Subscription for this memorial,
to the end that their school should have a permanent
building of its own ; but it was not till
1851 that arrangements were completed, by which,
SURGEON SQUARE. (Rrom a Drawing by Sh#krd,julZishd zn 1829.)
humble edifice in Niddry Street, but after a time it
was moved to one of the large houses described
in Adam Square.
Continued success attended the school from
its opening; it had the support of all classes of
citizens, particularly those connected with the
learned professions ; the subscription list showing
a sum of ;E450 yearly, and from this the directors,
by thrifty management, were able to put aside money
from time to time, as a future building fund.
For the purpose of erecting a memorial in
honour of James Watt at Edinburgh, a meeting
was held in July, 1824. On thewotion of the
.*Me Lord Cockburn, seconded by the Solicitorinstead
of erecting a new house, the old one in
Adam Square, which had been occupied by the
school for nearly thirty years, was purchased, when
the accumulated fund amounted to ~ 1 , 7 0 0 , and
the directors adding ASoo, obtained the house
for A2,500, after which it took the name of The
Watt /nsfifufion and SchooZ of Arts.
In May, 1854, the directors placed a statue of
James Watt, on a granite pedestal, in the little
square before the school, where both remained
till r871, when the building in Adam Square, which
had become too small for the requirements of the
institution, was pulled down, with those which adjoined
it, to make way for the broad and spacious ... to one of the large houses described in Adam Square. Continued success attended the school from its opening; ...

Vol. 2  p. 380 (Rel. 0.72)

3‘6 OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. me West Bow.
sorely. Keeping on the defensive, Westerhall
gave way step by step, seeking to gain the advantage
of the ascent, and thus supply the defect ‘of
his stature, which Writes perceiving, he bore in
close upon him hand to hand. Thus they continued
in close and mortal combat for about a
quarter of an hour, “clearing the causeway,” so
that none could venture near them, or leave the
conveyed to their lodgings. Their wounds were
slight, save that which Writes had just received on
his head, from which several pieces of bone came
away. After he was cured, and after the death of
Hugh Lord Somerville, Privy Councillor to James
VI. (an event which occurred in 1597), these combatants
were reconciled, and their feud committed
to oblivion.
ASSEMBLY ROOMS, WEST BOW, LOOKING TOWARDS THE LAWNYARKET.
(F~om a Drawing ay Yawzes Skcnr of RztbicZaw).
shop doors; neither dared any man attempt to
part them, for every thrust and stroke of their
swords threatened all who came near. . .
Westerhall eventually was driven down, fighting
every inch of the way to the foot of the Bow; and,
having on-for riding, probably-a pair of long
black boots drawn close up, was becoming quite
weary, and stepping within a shop door, stood
there on his defence; and then the last stroke
given by Hugh Somerville nearly broke his good
sword, as it struck the stone lintel of the door,
where the mark remained for years after.
“The tome being by this tyme all in an uproar,”
they were separated by a party of halberdiers, and
Eleven years after this, in the month of June,
1605, William Thomson, a dagger-maker in the
Bow, was slain by a neighbour of his own, named
John Waterstone, who, being taken red hand, was
next day beheaded on the Castle Hill. The Earl of
Dunfermline was at that time Provost.
The arched gate at the foot of the first bend in
the Bow is distinctly shown in Rothiemay’s map
(see j. I I 2). Within this and the old city wall, on
the west side, was an ancient timber-fionted tenement,
known as “Lord Ruthven’s Land,” being the
residence of the gloomy and daring Patrick third
Lord Ruthven, whose son was the first Earl of
Gowrie-the same dark and terrible lord who rose ... he bore in close upon him hand to hand. Thus they continued in close and mortal combat for about ...

Vol. 2  p. 316 (Rel. 0.71)

“ CLARINDA.” 327 Bristo Strht.]
pointed out by Sir Walter himself to the late Dr.
Robert Chambers. In 1792 Mr. Luckmore was
appointed one of the four English masters of the
High School on the city’s establishment, and continued
to hold that office till his death, in 181 I. Sir
Walter Scott, on leaving his school in Hamilton’s
Entry, was placed under the domestic tutelage of
Mr. James French, who prepared him to join Mr.
Luke Fraser‘s second class at the High School,
in October, 1779.
Another interesting locality in Bristo Street, at its
junction with the Potterrow, was long known as the
General’s Entry, No. 58, thoughhow it exists but
in name. This was a desolate-looking court of
ancient buildings. The south and east sides of the
quadrangle were formed by somewhat ornate edifices.
The crowstepped gable at the south-east
angle bore an antique sun-dial, with the quaint
legendand
beyond this was a row of circular-headed
dormer windows, in the richly decorated style of
James VI, One of these bore a shield, charged
with a monkey and three mullets-in-chief, surrounded
by elaborate scroll-work of the same reign
and bearing the initials J.D.
Unvarying tradition has assigned this mansion to
General Monk as a residence while commanding
in Scotland, but there is not much probability to
support it. The house was furnished with numerous
out-shots and projections, dark, broad, and
bulky stacks of chimneys, reared in unusual places,
all blackened by age and encrusted by the smoke
of centuries. It is said to have been built by Six
James Dalrymple, afterwards first Viscount Stair,
one of the Breda Cammissioners, and who continued
his practice at the bar with great reputation afte1
the battles of Dunbar and Worcester.
That he was a particular favourite with General
Monk, and even with Cromwell, to whom the
former recommended him as the fittest person foi
the bench in 1657, is well known; and under such
circumstances, it may be supposed ‘that Monk
would be his frequent visitor when he came from
his quarters at Dalkeith to the capital. Tradition
has assigned the house as the permanent residence
in those days of the Commander of the Forces in
Scotland. But there is sufficient proof that it was
the town abode of the Stair family, till, like the
rest of the Scottish nobility, they abandoned Edinburgh,
after the Treaty of Union. “ I t is not
unlikely,” says Wilson, ‘‘ that the present name oj
the old court is derived from the more recen!
residence there of John, second Earl of Stair, wha
served during the protracted campaigns of the
“ WE SHALL DIE ALL ; ”
Duke of Marlborough, and was promoted to the
rank of lieutenant-general after. the bloody victory
of Malplaquet. He shared in the fall of the great
duke, and retired from Court until the accession of
George I., during which interval it is probable that
the family mansion in the Potterrow formed the
frequent abode of the disgraced favourite.”
But Generalk Entry is perhaps now most
intimately associated with one of Burns’s heroines,
Mrs. McLehose, the romantic Clarinda of the notorious
correspondence, in which the poet figured
as Sylvander. He was introduced to her in the
house of a Miss Nimmo, on the first floor of an
old tenement on the north side of Alison Square.
A little parlour, a bed-room, and kitchen, accord.
ding to Chambers, constituted the accommodation
of Mrs. Agnes McLehose, “now the residence of
two, if not three, families in the extreme of humble
life.“
In December, 1787, Burns met at a tea-party
this lady, then a married woman of great beauty,
about his own age, and who, with her two children,
had been deserted by a worthless husband. She
had wit, could use her pen, had read “ Werther”
and his sorrows, was sociable and fl.irty, and possessed
a voluptuous lovelines% if we may judge by
the silhouette of her in Scott Douglas’s edition of
thepoet’s works. She and Burns took afancy to each
other on the instant. She invited him to tea, but he
offered a visit instead. An accident confined him
for about a month to his room, and this led to the
famous Clarinda and Sylvander correspondence.
At about the fifth or sixth exchange of their letters
she wrote: “ I t is really curious, so much fun
passing hetween two persons who saw each other
only once.”
During the few months of his fascination for this
fair one in General’s Entry, Bums showed more of
his real self, perhaps, than can be traced in other
parts of his published correspondence. In his first
letter to her after his marriage, he says, in reply to
her sentimental reproaches, ‘‘ When you call over
the scenes that have passed between us, you will
survey the conduct of an honest man struggling
successfully with temptations the most powerful
that ever beset humanity, and preserving untainted
honour in situations where the severest virtue
would have forgiven a fall.” But had Clarinda
been less accessible, she might habze discovered
eventually that much of the poet’s warmth *as
fanciful and melodramatic. From their correspondence
it would appear that she was in expectation
of Bums visiting her again in Alison
Square in 1788.
She was the cousin-german of Lord Craig, who, ... of the High School on the city’s establishment, and continued to hold that office till his death, in 181 I. ...

Vol. 4  p. 327 (Rel. 0.69)

warrist0u1 WARRISTON CEMETERY. I01
with an extraordinary memory, He went into very
high notiom of lengthened devotions, in which he
continued many hours a day ; he would often pray
in his family two hours at a time, and had an inexhaustible
copiousness that way. What thought
soever struck his fancy during these effusions, he
looked on it as an answer of prayer, and was
wholly determined by it. He looked on the
Covenant as the sitting of Christ on his throne, and
.was so out of measure zealous in it. He had no
The middle of the last century saw Warriston
possessed by a family named Grainger, and afterwards
by another named Mure ; and in 1814 there
died in Warriston House the Hon. W. F. Mackenzie,
the only son of Francis Lord Seaforth, and
representative in Parliament for the county of
Ross; and in the same house there died, on the
28th ot July, 1838, Helen D’Arcy Cranstoun (a
daughter of the Hon. George Cranstoun and the
second wife of Professor Dugald Stewart), a lady
WARRISTON CEMETERY.
- regard to raising himself or his family, though he had
- thirteen children, but Presbytery was to him more
than all the world. He had a readiness and vehemence
of speaking that made him very considerable
in public assemblies; and he had a fruitful invention,
: so that he was at all times furnished with expedients.”
. Such is the Bishop’s picture of this eminent lawyer
and Covenanter, but very crooked politician.
Lord Warriston’s son, James Johnston, was appointed
envoy to the Court of Brandenburg, but
- as he was afterwards fortunate enough to be created
by King William one of his principal secretaries
. of state, he was nominated by a warrant from His
Majesty ‘‘ to sit as Lord Secretary in the Parliament
who holds a very high place among the writers -of
Scottish song, and was sister of Countess Purgstall,
the subject of Captain Basil Hall’s “ Schloss
Heinfeld”
Eildon Street and Wamston Crescent, both
running eastward off Inverleith Row, have been
recently built on the estate of Warriston, and due
eastward of the mansion-house lies the spacious and
beautiful cemetery which appropriately takes its
name from the locality.
Wamston Cemetery, with a gentle slope to the
sun and commanding a magnificent view of the
city, is laid out with very considerable taste. It
was opened in 1843, and has one approach by
~ which met in I 693.” I a bridge over the Leith from Canonmills, a sewnd ... very high notiom of lengthened devotions, in which he continued many hours a day ; he would often pray in his ...

Vol. 5  p. 101 (Rel. 0.69)

North Bridge.7 . JAMES SUTHERLAND. 363 #
4 I
say nothing of the cost of new plants, so difficult
to procure in those non-travelling times.
In the spring of 1689, during the siege of the
Castle, a woeful mishap befell him. For certain
strategic reasons it had been thought necessary by
Sir John Lanier and other leaders to drain the
North Loch, and, as the water thereof ran through
the Botanic Gardens, as it had done of old through
that of the Hospital, it came to pass that for
several days the place was completely inundated,
and when left dry was found to be covered with
mud, and the rubbish of the city drains, so that
nearly all the delicate and costly plants collected
by Balfour, by Sibbald, and by Sutherland, were
destroyed ; and it cost the latter and his assistants
nearly a whole season to clear the ground, and in
his distress he appealed to the Privy Council.
That body considered his memorial, and the
good services he was rendering, “whereby not only
the young physicians, apothecaries, and chirurgeons,
but also the nobility and gentry, are taught
the knowledge of herbs, and also a multitude of
plants, shrubs, and trees, are cultivated, which were
never known in this nation before, and .more
numerous,” continues the Privy Council Record,
“than in any other garden in Britain, as wee1 for
the’honour of the place as for the advantage -of the
people.” They ‘therefore awarded him a pension
of 650 yearly out of the fines accruing to them.
Encouraged by this, and further aided by the
Lords of the Scottish Treasury, James Sutherland,
in 1695, extended his operations to a piece of
ground lying between the porch of Holyrood
palace and the old road to Restalrig, near where
the great dial stands now, where in that year he
raised “a good crop of melons,” and many “ other
curious annuals, fine flowers, and other plants not
ordinary in this country.” In a few years he hoped
to rival London, if supplied with means to procure
“reed hedges to divide, shelter, and lay the
ground ‘lown,’ and warm, and a greenhouse and
store to preserve oranges, myrtles, and lemons,
with other tender plants and fine exotics in winter.”
He entreated the Lords of Council to further aid
him, ‘‘ without which the work must cease, and the
petitioner suffer in reputation and interest, what he
is doing being more for the honour of the nation,
and the ornament and use of his majesty’s palace,
than his own private behoof.“
This place remained still garden ground till
about the time of Queen Victoria’s first visit, when
the new north approach to the palace was run
through it.
James Sutherland is supposed to have died about
1705, when his collection of Greek, Roman,
Scottish, Saxon, and English coins and medals, was
purchased by the Faculty of Advocates, and is
still preserved in their library.
The old Physic Garden, which had been his
own, eastward of the bridge, continued to be used
as such till the time when the chair of botany was’
occupied by Dr. John Hope, who was born at
Edinburgh in 1725, and was the grandson of Sir
Alexander Hope, Lord Rankeillor. On the 13th
April, 1761, he was appointed king’s botanist for
Scotland, and elected a few days after, by the
town council, Professor of materia medica, and
of botany, He was the first who introduced into
Scotland the Linnean system; and in 1768 he
resigned the professorship of materia medica, that,
in the end, he might devote himself exclusively to
botany, and his exertions in promoting the study of
it in Edinburgh were attended with the most
beneficial results. His immediate predecessor,
Dr. Alston, was violently opposed to the Linnean
system, against which he published an essay in
‘751.
It was in the humble garden near the Trinity
College that he taught his students, and, for the.
purpose of exciting emulation among them, he
annually, towards the close of the session, gave a
beautiful medal to the student who had displayed
most diligence and zeal in his studies. It was
inscribed-“ A cedro hyysopum usque. J. HOPE, Bot.
Pro$, dal . . . ’I In Kay’s portraits we have a clever
etching of the Professor superintending hisgardeners,
in a roquelaure and cocked hat. Besides some
useful manuals for facilitating the acquisition of
botany by his students, two valuable dissertations
by him, the one on the ‘‘Rhtzun Palmaturn,” and
the other on the ‘‘ Fer& AssafkMu,” were published
by him in the “Philosophical Transactions.”
Finding that the ancient garden was unsuited to
advancing science, he used every exertion to have it
removed to a more favourable situation, To further
his objects the Lords of the Treasury granted
him, says Arnot, ‘‘;GI,~~o IS. z+d. to make it, and
for its annual support the sum of A69 3s. At the
same time the magistrates and town council granted
the sum of A25 annually for paying the rent of
the ground.”
The place chosen was on the west side of Leith
Walk. It was laid out under the eye of Professor
Hope, who died in November, 1786. After the
formation of the new garden, the old one was completely
abandoned about 1770, and continued. to
be a species of desolate waste ground, enclosed by
a rusty iron railing, with here and there an old
tree dying of neglect and decay, till at length
innovations swept it away. ... Garden, which had been his own, eastward of the bridge, continued to be used as such till the time when the ...

Vol. 2  p. 363 (Rel. 0.69)

North Bridge.] THE OLD THEATRE ROYAL. 343
able performer in fashionable comedy, and had
been long a favourite at the Canongate Theatre.
Bland was also well connected ; he had been a
Templar, an ofiicer in the army at Fontenoy, and
in the repulse of the British cavalry by the Highlanders
on Cliftonmoor in 1745. For twenty-three
years he continued to be a prime favourite on
these old boards ; he was the uncle of Mrs. Jordan ;
and Edmund Glover, so long a favourite also in
Edinburgh and Glasgow, was nearly related to him.
In 1774 Foote came from Dublin to perform here
again. “We hear,” says Ruddiman’s Magazine,
“that he is to perform seven nights, for which he
is to receive A250. The Nabob, Th Bankmyt,
The Maidof Bath, and Pie9 in Pattms, all of which
have been written by our modern Aristophanes, are
the four pieces that will be exhibited.”
In these new hands the theatre became prosperous,
and the grim little enclosure named Shakespeare
Square-sprang up near it; but the west side
was simply the rough rubble wall of the bridge,
terminating in later years, till 1!60, by a kind of
kiosk named “The Box,” in which papers and
periodicals weie sold. It was simply a place of
lodging-houses, a humble inn or two, like the Red
Lion tavern and oyster shop,
At intervals between 1773 and 1815 Mr. Moss
was a prime favourite at the Royal. One of his
cherished characters was Lovegold in The Miser;
but that in which he never failed to “bring down
the house ” was Caleb, in He wouZd 6e a Soldier,
especially when in the military costume of the
early part of George 111,’s reign, he sang his song,
“ I’m the Dandy 0.”
Donaldson, I in his Recollections,” speaks of
acting for ihe, benefit of poor Moss in 1851, at
Stirling, when he-who had delighted the audience
of the then capital in the Mmchant of Venice-was
an aged cripple, penniless and poor. ‘‘ MOSS,” he
adds, ‘‘ caught the inspiration from the renowned
Macklin, whose yew, by Pope’s acknowledgment,
was unrivalled, even in the days of David Gamck,
and he bequeathed to his protdgge‘ Moss that conception
which descended to the most original and
extraordinary Shylock of any period-Edmund
Kean.”
’ During the management of West Digges most
of the then London stars, save Gamck, appeared in
the old Royal. Among them were Mr. Bellamy,
Mr. Sheridan, Mr. Barfy, Mr. and Mrs. Yates, and,
occasionally, Foote.
Of Mrs. Yates Kaygives an etching in the character
of the Duchess of Braganza, a play by an
obscure author named Henry Crisp. The period
to which his print refers was 1785, when-though
she was well advanced in years, having been borm
in 1729 (in London, but of Scottish parents)-
she was paid at the rate of a hundred guineas per
night by Mr. Jackson. From Mr. Digges she
and her husband received seven hundred guineas
at the end of one season. “The gentlemen of
the bar and some even of the bench had been
zealous patrons of the drama since the Canongate
days, even to the taking a personal concern
in its affairs. They continued to do this for
many years after this time. Dining being then
an act performed at four o’clock, the aristocracy
were free to give their attendance at half-past six,
and did so in great numbers whenever there wasany
tolerable attraction. So fashionable, indeed,
had the theatre become, that a man of birth and
fashion named Mr. Nicholson Stewart came forward
one night, in the character of Richard III.,
to raise funds for the building of a bridge over the
Carron, at a ford where many lives had been lost.
On this occasion the admission to all parts of the
house was five shillings, and it was crowded by
what the journals of the day tell us was a poZite
audience. The gentleman’s action was allowed to
be just, but his voice too weak.””
In 1781 the theatre passed into the hands of
Mr. John Jackson, author of a rather dull (c History
of the Scottish Stage, with a Narrative of Recent
Theatrical Transactions.” It was published at
Edinburgh in 1793. Like his predecessors in the
management he was a man of good education, and
well connected, and had chosen the stage as the
profession he loved best. In the second year of
his rule Siddons appeared in the full power of her
talent and beauty as Portia, at Drury Lane ; and
Jackson, anxious to secure her for Edinburgh,
hastened to London, and succeeded in inducing
her to make an engagement, then somewhat of an
undertaking when the mode of travel in those days
is considered; and on the zznd of May, 1784, she
made her appearance at the Theatre Royal, when,
as the Edinburgh Week0 Magazine records, ((the
manager took the precaution, after the first night,
to have ar. officer’s guard of soldiers at the principal
door. But several scuffles having ensued, through
the eagerness of the people to get places, and the
soldiers having been rash enough to use their
bayonets, it was thought advisable to withdraw the
guard on the third night, lest any accident had
happened from the pressure of the crowd, who
began to assemble round the doors at eleven in the
forenoon.”
Her part was Belvidera, Jaffier being performed
“Sketch of the Theatre Rod,“ 1859. ... Cliftonmoor in 1745. For twenty-three years he continued to be a prime favourite on these old boards ; ...

Vol. 2  p. 343 (Rel. 0.69)

University. 1 A COMMISSION OF INQUIRY. ‘3
one with a dark lantern ; but notwithstanding that
a pardon and zoo merks (about 6110 sterling)
were offered by the Privy Council to any who
would discover the perpetrators of this outrage,
they were never detected.
The gates of the college were ordered to be shut,
and the students to retire at least fifteen miles
distant from the city; but in ten days they were
permitted to return, upon their friends becoming
caution for their peaceable behaviour, and the
gates were again thrown open ; but all students
“ above the Semi-class ” were ordered by the Privy
Council to take the oaths of allegiance and supremacy,
and go regularly to the parish churches ;
but, says Fountainhall, ‘‘ there were few or none
who gave thu conditions.”
-the seat of Sir Jarnes Dick, Lord Provost, the
family being in town-was deliberately set in flames
by fire-balls, and burned to the ground, with all
its furniture.
A barrel ha.Y full of combustible materials, and
bearing, it was said, the Castle mark, was found in
the adjacent park, and several people deposed
that on the night of the conflagration they saw
many young men going towards the house of
Priestfield with unlighted links in their hands, and
’
repress faction and panish disorder ; to correspond
with the other Scottish Universities, so that a uniformity
of discipline might be adopted; and to
report fully on all these matters before the 1st of
November, 1683. “What the visitors did in
consequence of this appointment,” says Amot,
“ we are not able to ascertain.”
As this visitation was to be for the suppression
of fanaticism, upon the accomplishment of the
Revolution a Parliamentary one was ordered of all
the universities in Scotland by an Act of William
and Mary, ‘‘ with the purpose to remove and
’ oppress such as continued attached to the hierarchy
or the House of Stuart. From such specimens
of their conduct in a visitorial capacity as we have
been able to discover, we are entitled to say,” re-
To prevent a recurrence of such outbreaks,
Charles 11. appointed a visitation of the university,
naming the great officers of state, the bishop, Lord
Provost, and magistrates of the city, and certain
others, of whom five, with the bishop and Lord
Provost should be a quorum, to inquire into the
condition of the college, its revenues, privileges, and
buildings; to examine if the laws of the realm, the
Church government, and the old rules of discipline
were observed j to arrange the methods of study; to
PART OF THE BUILDINGS OF THE saum SIDE OF THE QUADRANGLE OF THE OLD UNIVERSITY.
(From am Engraving ay W. H. Lienn of a Drawing ay Payfair.) ... with the purpose to remove and ’ oppress such as continued attached to the hierarchy or the House of ...

Vol. 5  p. 13 (Rel. 0.68)

The West Bow.] MAJOR WEIR’S HOUSE. 3 13
an extraordinary quantity of yarn, in the time that
it would have taken four women to do so.
At the place of execution in the Grassmarket a
frenzy seized her, and the wretched old creature
began to rend her garments, in order, as she
shrieked, that she might die ‘‘ with all the shame
she could ! ”
Undeterred by her fate, ten other old women
were in the same year burned in Edinburgh for
alleged dabbling in witchcraft.
flaming torches, as if a multitude of people were
there, all laughing merrily. “This sight, at so
dead a time of night, no people being in the windows
belonging to the close, made her and her
servant haste home, declaring all that they saw to
the rest of the family.”
“For upwards of a century after Major Weir‘s
death he continued to be the bugbear of the Bow,
and his house remained uninhabited. His apparition,”
says Chambers, ‘‘ was frequently seen at
MAJOR WEIR’S LAND.
(Fmm a Measrrrrd Drawing by Thomas HamiZton, #idZiskcd in 183a)
The reverend Professor who compiled “ Satan’s
Invisible World,” relates that a few nights before
the major made his astounding confession, the
wife of a neighbour, when descending from the
Castle Hill towards the Bow-head, saw three
women in different windows, shouting, laughing,
and clapping their hands. She passed on, and
when abreast of Major Weir’s door, she saw a
woman of twice mortal stature arise from the street.
Filled with great fear, she desired her maid, who
bore a lantern, to hasten on, but the tall spectre
still kept ahead of them, uttering shouts of “unmeasurable
laughter,” till they came to the narrow
alley called the Stinking Close, into which the
spectre turned, and which was seen to be full of
40
night, flitting like a black and silent shadow about
the street. His house, though known to be deserted
by everything human, was sometimes observed at
midnight to be full of lights, and heard to emit
strange sounds, as of dancing, howling, and, what
is strangest of all, spinning. Some people occasionally
saw the major issue from the low close at
midnight, mounted on a black horse without a
head, and gallop off in a whirlwind of flame. Nay,
sometimes the whole inhabitants of the Bow would
be roused from their sleep at an early hour in the
morning by the sound of a coach and six, first
rattling up the Lawnmarket, and then thundering
down the Bow, stopping at the head of the terrible
close for a few minutes, and then rattling and ... upwards of a century after Major Weir‘s death he continued to be the bugbear of the Bow, and his house ...

Vol. 2  p. 313 (Rel. 0.68)

CONTENTS. vii
. CHAPTER XXXI.
PAGE ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET (continued).
Blackfriars Wynd-The Grant of Alexander 11.-Bothwell slays Si Williiam Stewar-Escape of Archbishop Sharpe-Cameronian Meetinghouse-
The House of the Regent Morton-Catholic Chapels of the Eighteenth Century-Bishop Hay-"No Popery" Riots-
Baron Smith's Chapel-Scottish Episcopalians-House of the Prince of Orkney- Magnificence of Earl Wdliam Sinclair-Cfudinnl
Beaton's House-The Cardinal's Armorial Bearings-Historical Assw$arions of his House-Its Ultimate Occupants-The United
IndusWSchool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 . 258
CHAPTER XXXII.
ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET (continued).
Toddrick's Wynd-Banquet to the Danish Ambassador and Nobles-Lord Leven's House in Skinner's Close-The Fim Mint Houses-
The Mint-Scottish Coin-Mode of its Manufacture-Argyle's Lodging-Dr. Cullen-Elphinstone's Court--Lords Laughborough and
Stonefield-Lard Selkirk-Dr. Rutherford, the Inventor of Gas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
CHAPTER XXXIII.
ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET (concluded).
The House of the Earls of Hyndford-The l'hree Rornps'of Monreith-Anne, Conntess of Balcarris-South Foulid Qosc-The "Endnrylie's
Well"-Fountain Close-The House of Bailie Fullerton-Purchase of Property for the Royal College of Physicians-New
Episcopal Chapel-Tweeddale Close-The House of the Marquis of Tweeddale-Kise of the British Linen Compmy-The Mysterious
Murder of Begbie-The World's End Close-The Stanfield Tragedy-Titled Raidenters in Old Town C h e s . . . . . . 274
CHAPTER XXXIV.
NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL.
Lord Cockburn Street-Lord Cockhnrn-The Scobman Newspaper-Charles Mackren and Alexander Kussel-The Queen's Edinburgh
Rifle Brigade-St. Giles Street-Sketch of the Rise of Journalism in Edinburgh-The Edidurgk Couramt-The Dai& Review-
Jeffrey Street-New Trinity College Church . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL (ctmcluded).
Victoria Street and Terrace-The I n d i Buildings-Mechanics' Subscription Libraq-Gwrge IV. Bridge-St. Augustine's Church-Martyrs'
Church-Chamber of the Hqhlandaud Apicnltural Sodety--SheriffCourt Bddbgs a d sohitors' Hall-Johnstone Terace-St. John's
Free Church-The Church of Scotland Training Ihllege . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
CHAPTER XXXVI.
ST. MARY'S WYND.
St. Mary's Wynd and Street-Sir David Annand-St. Mary's Cisterdan Conrentand Hospital-Bothwell's Brawl in I+-T?I~ Caagate Port-
Rag Fair-The Ladies of Traquair-Ramsay's "White Horsc '' Inn-Pasqnale de Paoli-Ramsay Retires with a Fortune-Boyd's
'' White Horse" Inn-Patronised by Dr. Johnson-Improvements in the Wynd-Catholic Institute-The Oldest Doorhead in the City 297
CHAPTER XXXVII.
LEITH WYND.
Leith Wynd-Our Lady's Hospital-Paul's Work-The Wall of 1540-ItO Fall in 1854-The "Happy Land"-Mary of Gueldns-Trinity
College Church-Some Particulars of its Charter-Interior View-Decorations-Enlargement of the Establishment-Privileges of
its Ancient Officers-The Duchess of Lennox-Lady Jane Hamilton-Curious Remains-Trinity Hospital-Sir Simon Preston's
" Public Spirit "-Become a Corporation Charity-Description of Buildings-Provision for the Inmates--Lord Cockburn's Female
Pdon-Demolition of the Hospital-Other Charities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
CHAPTER XXXVJII.
T H E W E S T B O W .
%e West Bow-Quaint Ciaracter of its Houses-Its Modern Aspact-Houses of the Tunplar Knighrs-The Bowfoot Well-The Bow
Port-The Bow-head-Major Weir's Land-History of Major Thomas WeL-Personal Appearance-His Powdd Prayers-The 'I Holy
Sisters "-The Bowhead Saints-Weir's Reputed Compact with the Devil-Sick-bed Confession-ht-Search of his House--Prison
Confession-Trial of Him and His Sister Grizel-Execution-What was Weir ?-His Sister undoubtedly Mad-Terrible Reputation of
the Houw-Untenanted for upwards of a Century-Patullo's Experience of a Cheap Lodging-Weir's Land Improd Out of Existence
-Hall of the Knights of St. John-A Mysterious House-Samerville Mmsion-The Assembly Rooms--Opposed by the Bigotry of
the Times-The LPdy-Directress-Curioua Regulations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309 ... vii . CHAPTER XXXI. PAGE ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET ( continued ). Blackfriars Wynd-The Grant of Alexander ...

Vol. 2  p. 389 (Rel. 0.68)

144 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [portobella
monly let to one of the Duddingston tenants for
zoo merks Scots, or LII 2s. z&d. sterling. Portobello
Hut, built in 1742, by an old Scottish seaman
who had served under Admiral Vernon, in 1739,
was so named by him in honour of our triumph at
that West Indian seaport, and hence the cognomen
of this watering-place ; but houses must have sprung
up around it by the year 1753, as in the Cowanf of
that year, ‘( George Hamilton in Portobello ” offers
a reward of three pounds for the name of a libeller
who represented him as harbouring in his house
robbers, by whom, and by some smugglers, the
locality was then infested.
In the January of the following year the S o f s
Magazine records that Alexander Henderson,
~~
teen fishwives (are) to trot from Musselburgh to the
Canon(gate) Cross, for twelve pairs of lambs’
hanigals.”
The Figgate Bum was the boundary in this
quarter of a custom-house at Prestonpans j the
Tyne was the boundary in the other direction.
The Figgate lands, on which Portobello and
Brickfield are built, says the old statistical account,
consist together of about seventy acres, and continued
down to 1762 a mere waste, and were com-
Lord Milton, the proprietor, to Baron Muir, of the
Exchequer, for A1,500, and feuing then began at
t f 3 per acre; but the once solitary abode of the
old tar was long an object of interest, and stood
intact till 1851, at the south-west side of the High
Street, nearly opposite to Regent Street, and was
long used as a hostelry for humble foot-travellers,
on a road that led from the old Roman way, or
Fishwives’ Causeway, across the Whins towards
Musselburgh. Parker Lawson, in his cc Gazetteer,”
says it was long known as the Shtpheyds’ Ha’.
In 1765, Mr. William Jamieson, the feuar under
Baron Muir, discovered near the Figgate Bum a
valuable bed of clay, and on the banks of the
stream he erected first a brick and tile works, a d
master of a fishing-boat, on his way from Musselburgh
to Leith, was attacked by footpads at the
Figgate Whins, who robbed him of ten guineas
that were sewn in the waistband of his breeches,
12s. 6d. that he had in his pocket, cut him over
the head with a broadsword, stabbed him in the
breast, and left him for dead. His groans were
heard by two persons coming that way, who carried
him to Leith.”
About 1763 the Figgate Wins was sold by
THE eRAIGANTINNIE MARBLES. ... account, consist together of about seventy acres, and continued down to 1762 a mere waste, and were ...

Vol. 5  p. 144 (Rel. 0.68)

Roslin.1 THE sr. CLAIRS. 349
Lords Sinclair of Herdmanston. The second son,
also called William, continued the line of the Earls
of Caithness ; while the thud son, Oliver, founded
the more modern family, and connected it with the
ancient one of St. Clair of Roslin. In 1583,
Thomas Vans and Archibald Hoppringall, burgesses
of Edinburgh, became caution for Edward Sinclair,
eldest son of Sir William of Roslin, that his spouse,
Christian Douglas, should have peaceable access to
him in his father‘s Place of Roslin, and that he
should duly appear before the Lords of Council to
underlie the law with reference to a family dispute.
(“ Reg. of Council.”)
Their descendant, William, last heir in the direct
male line, died in 17;s. A collateral branch was
his cupbearer, Lord Fleming his carver, and
these had as deputies, in their absence, the Lairds
of Drummelzier, Sandilands, and Calder. His
halls and apartments were richly adorned with
embroidered hanging, and to the state adopted by
his “ princess Elizabeth ” we have already referred.
The three sons of William, the third earl, conveyed
the concentrated honours of the house in
their respective lines. William, the eldest, inherited
the title of Bpron Sinclair, and was ancestor of the
Roslin, which was founded in the j-ear 1446 by the
then lord, and dedicated to St. Matthew. Only
the chancel of the edifice was completed, but
a cruciform structure must have been contemplated.
Though certainly squat in outline, all the
rare beauties of the chapel are concentrated in the
design and wonderfully varied character of its
mouldings, buttresses, and incrustations. It bids
defiance to all the theories of Gothic architecture.
Britton calls it “ curious, elaborate, and singularly
interesting; ” and, in comparing it with other
edifices of the same period, he adds, “These styles
display a gradual advancement in lightness and
profusion of ornament, but the chapel of Roslin
combines the solidity of the Norman with the
-
raised in the year 1801 to the title of Earls of Rosslyn,
in the peerage of the United Kingdom. James,
second earl, succeeded in the year 1837, and now
the Scottish seat of the family is at Dysart House,
Fifeshire.
The St. Clairs of Roslin, from the time of James
11. till they resigned the office in the last century,
were the Grand Masters of Masonry in Scotland.
It may seem almost superfluous to describe an
edifice so well known as the exquisite chapel of
ROSLIN CHAPEL :- NORTH FRONT. ... of Herdmanston. The second son, also called William, continued the line of the Earls of Caithness ; while the ...

Vol. 6  p. 349 (Rel. 0.67)

OLD -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INCHKEITH.
PAGE
The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. Serf-The Pest-stricken in 1497-Experiment of James lV.-The Old Fort-Johnson and
Boswell-The New Chanuel -Colonel Moggridge's P l a n j T h e 'I hree New Forts-Magazines and Barracks-The Lighthouse . . 290
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.'s Dockyard -His Gift of Newhaven to Edinburgh-The GYCQ~ Michapl-Embarkation of Mary of Guise
-Woc.ks at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The Links-Viscount Newhaven-The Feud with Prestonpans-The Sea Fencibles
--Chain Pier-Dr. Fairhirn-The E ishwives-Superstitions . , . . . , . . . . . . . . . 295
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTO~.
Wardie Muir-Human Remqins Found-Bangholm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Pilton
-Royston-Caroline Park-Granton-The Piers and Harhuun-Morton's Patent Slip , . . . . . . , . . 306
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH.
Cramond-Origin of the Name-Cramond of that Ilk-Ancient Charters - Inchmickery-Lord Cramond--Bdrnton -Goer and its Proprietors-
Saughton Hall--Riccarton . . . . . . , . . . . . . . , . . . , . . 3'4
CH AI'TE R XXXVI 11.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (confinzed).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghom -The Pentlands-View from Tqhin-Comiston-Slateford-
Grnysmill-Liberton -The Mill at Nether Liberton-Liberton Tower-The Chiirch-The Balm Well of St. Katherine-Grace
Mount-The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St Katherine's-The Kaime-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
Cnrrie-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-The Old Church and Temple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-
Scott of Malleny-James Andelson, LL.D.--"Camp Meg" and her Story . . . . . . . . . . , . 130
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDIXBURGH (coalinued).
The Inch House-The WinramcEdmonstone and the Edmon.;tones of ttat Ilk-Witches-Woolmet-The Stenhouse-Moredun-The
' .338 Stewarts of Goodtrees-The Buckstane-Burdiehoux-Its Limekilns and Fossils . . . . , I . . . , . ... Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322 CHAPTER XXXIX. THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH ( continued ...

Vol. 6  p. 398 (Rel. 0.67)

OLD -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INCHKEITH.
PAGE
The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. Serf-The Pest-stricken in 1497-Experiment of James lV.-The Old Fort-Johnson and
Boswell-The New Chanuel -Colonel Moggridge's P l a n j T h e 'I hree New Forts-Magazines and Barracks-The Lighthouse . . 290
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.'s Dockyard -His Gift of Newhaven to Edinburgh-The GYCQ~ Michapl-Embarkation of Mary of Guise
-Woc.ks at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The Links-Viscount Newhaven-The Feud with Prestonpans-The Sea Fencibles
--Chain Pier-Dr. Fairhirn-The E ishwives-Superstitions . , . . . , . . . . . . . . . 295
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTO~.
Wardie Muir-Human Remqins Found-Bangholm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Pilton
-Royston-Caroline Park-Granton-The Piers and Harhuun-Morton's Patent Slip , . . . . . . , . . 306
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH.
Cramond-Origin of the Name-Cramond of that Ilk-Ancient Charters - Inchmickery-Lord Cramond--Bdrnton -Goer and its Proprietors-
Saughton Hall--Riccarton . . . . . . , . . . . . . . , . . . , . . 3'4
CH AI'TE R XXXVI 11.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (confinzed).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghom -The Pentlands-View from Tqhin-Comiston-Slateford-
Grnysmill-Liberton -The Mill at Nether Liberton-Liberton Tower-The Chiirch-The Balm Well of St. Katherine-Grace
Mount-The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St Katherine's-The Kaime-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
Cnrrie-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-The Old Church and Temple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-
Scott of Malleny-James Andelson, LL.D.--"Camp Meg" and her Story . . . . . . . . . . , . 130
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDIXBURGH (coalinued).
The Inch House-The WinramcEdmonstone and the Edmon.;tones of ttat Ilk-Witches-Woolmet-The Stenhouse-Moredun-The
' .338 Stewarts of Goodtrees-The Buckstane-Burdiehoux-Its Limekilns and Fossils . . . . , I . . . , . ... Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322 CHAPTER XXXIX. THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH ( continued ...

Vol. 6  p. 399 (Rel. 0.67)

OLD -4NU NEW EDINBURGH. ... v11t
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INCHKEITH.
PAGE
The Defences of Leith-Inchkeith Forts-%. Serf-The Pest-stricken in 1497-Experiment of James lV.-The Old Fort-Johnson and
Boswell-The New Chanuel -Colonel Moggridge's P l a n j T h e 'I hree New Forts-Magazines and Barracks-The Lighthouse . . 290
CHAPTER XXXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.'s Dockyard -His Gift of Newhaven to Edinburgh-The GYCQ~ Michapl-Embarkation of Mary of Guise
-Woc.ks at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The Links-Viscount Newhaven-The Feud with Prestonpans-The Sea Fencibles
--Chain Pier-Dr. Fairhirn-The E ishwives-Superstitions . , . . . , . . . . . . . . . 295
CHAPTER XXXVI.
WARDIE, TRINITY, AND GRANTO~.
Wardie Muir-Human Remqins Found-Bangholm Bower and Trinity Lodge-Christ Church, Trinity-Free Church, Granton Road-Pilton
-Royston-Caroline Park-Granton-The Piers and Harhuun-Morton's Patent Slip , . . . . . . , . . 306
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH.
Cramond-Origin of the Name-Cramond of that Ilk-Ancient Charters - Inchmickery-Lord Cramond--Bdrnton -Goer and its Proprietors-
Saughton Hall--Riccarton . . . . . . , . . . . . . . , . . . , . . 3'4
CH AI'TE R XXXVI 11.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (confinzed).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghom -The Pentlands-View from Tqhin-Comiston-Slateford-
Grnysmill-Liberton -The Mill at Nether Liberton-Liberton Tower-The Chiirch-The Balm Well of St. Katherine-Grace
Mount-The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St Katherine's-The Kaime-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
Cnrrie-Origin of the Name-Roman Camps-The Old Church and Temple Lands-Lennox Tower-Curriehill Castle and the Skenes-
Scott of Malleny-James Andelson, LL.D.--"Camp Meg" and her Story . . . . . . . . . . , . 130
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDIXBURGH (coalinued).
The Inch House-The WinramcEdmonstone and the Edmon.;tones of ttat Ilk-Witches-Woolmet-The Stenhouse-Moredun-The
' .338 Stewarts of Goodtrees-The Buckstane-Burdiehoux-Its Limekilns and Fossils . . . . , I . . . , . ... Clement Little-Lady Little 01 Lihrton . 322 CHAPTER XXXIX. THE EXVIRONS OF EDINBURGH ( continued ...

Vol. 6  p. 397 (Rel. 0.67)

178 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Broughton Street.
ruary, Messrs. Margarot, Muir, Skirving, and
Palmer-to whose memory the grand obelisk in
the Calton burying-ground has been erected-were
transmitted from Newgate to a ship bound for
Botany Bay.
In those days, and for long after, there was a
narrow close or alley named the Salt Backet, which
ran between the head of Leith Street and the Low
Calton, and by this avenue, in 1806, Janies Mackoul,
alias “ Captain Moffat,” the noted thief, whom
we have referred to in the story of Begbie’s assassination,
effected his escape when pursued for a robbery
in the Theatre Royal.
Eastward of the head of Leith Street, and almost
in the direct line of the Regent Arch, stood the
old Methodist Meeting House.
Facing Leith Walk, at the junction of Little
King Street with Broughton Street, is the present
Theatre Royal, occupying the site of several places
of amusement its predecessors.
-About the year 1792 Mr. Stephen Kemble, in
the-course of his peripatetic life, having failed to
obtain the management of the old Theatre Royal
at the end of the North Bridge, procured leave to
erect a new house, which he called a Circus, in
what is described in the titles thereof as a piece
of ground bounded by a hedge. Mrs. Esten, an
admired actress, the lessee of the Theatre Royal,
succeeded in cjbtaining a decree of the Court of
Session against the production of plays at this
rival establishment ; but it nevertheless was permanently
detrimental to the old one, as it continued
to furnish amusements too closely akin to
the theatrical for years ; and in the scois Magazine
for 1793 we read:--“ Januasy 21. The New
Theatre of Edinburgh (formerly the Circus) under
the management of Mr. Stephen Kemble, was
opened with the comedy of the RiuaZs. This
theatre is most elegantly and commodiously fitted
up, and is considerably larger than the Theatre
Royal.” By the end of that season, Kemble, however,
procured the latter, and retained it till 1800.
A speculative Italian named Signor Corri took up
the circus as a place for concerts and other entertainments,
while collaterally with him a Signor
Pietro Urbani endeavoured to have card and
music meetings at the Assembly Rooms. Urbani
was an Italian teacher of singing, long settled in
Edinburgh, where, towards the croseof the eighteenth
century, he published “A Selection of Scots Songs,
harmonised and improved, with simple and adapted
graces,” a work extending to six folio volumes.
Urbani’s selection is remarkable in three respects :
the novelty of the number and kind of instruments
used in the accompaniments ; the filling up of the
pianoforte harmony ; and the use, for the first time
of introductory and concluding symphonies to the
melodies. He died, very poor, in Dublin, in 1816.
Corri’s establishment in Broughton Street was
eminently unsuccessful, yet he made it a species of
theatre. “ If it be true,” says a writer, “ as we are
told by an intelligent foreigner in 1800, that very
few people in Edinburgh then spent a thousand a
year, and that they were considered rather important
persons who had three or four hundred;
we shall understand how, in these circumstances,
neither the theatre, nor Corri‘s Rooms, nor the
Assembly Rooms, could be flourishing concerns.”
Itis said that Com deemed himself so unfortunate,
that he declared his belief “that if he bedme a
baker the people would give up the use of bread.”
Ultimately he failed, and was compelled to seek
the benefit of the cessio bonorum. In a theatrical
critique for 1801, which animadverts pretty freely
on the public of the city for their indifference to
theatrical matters, it is said:-“By a run of the
SchooZ for SandaZ, an Italian manager, Corri, was
enabled to swim like boys on bladders; but he
ultimately sank under the weight of his debts, and
was only released by the benignity of the British
laws. Neither the universal abilities of Wilkinson,
his private worth, nor his full company, could
draw the attention of the capital of the North till
he was some hundred pounds out of pocket; and
though he was at last assisted by the interference
of certain public characters, yet, after all, his success
did little more than make up his losses in the beginning
of the season.”
In 1809 Mr. Henry Siddons re-fitted Corri’s
Rooms as a theatre, at an expense of about L4,ooo.
There performances were continued for two seasons,
till circumstances rendered it necessary for Mr.
Siddons to occupy the old Theatre Royal.
In 1816 Corri’s Rooms, as the edifice was still
called, was the scene of a grand&? given to the
78th Highlanders, ’ or Ross-shire Buffs, who had
just returned from sickly and unhealthy quarters
at Nieuport in Flanders. On this occasion, we
are told, the rooms were blazing with hundreds of
lamps, “shedding their light upon all the beauty
and fashion of Edinburgh, enlivened by the uniforms
of the officers of the several regiments.”
The band of the Black Watch occupied the
large orchestra, in front of which was a thistle, with
the motto Pyenez garde. Festoons of the 4znd
tartan, and the shields of the Duke of Wellington
and the Marquis of Huntly, with cuirasses from the
recent field of Waterloo, were among the decorations
here. Elsewhere were ot!ier trophies, wXn
the mottoes Egypf and Corunna. At the other end ... was permanently detrimental to the old one, as it continued to furnish amusements too closely akin to the ...

Vol. 3  p. 178 (Rel. 0.67)

1.86 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Gilea Street.
Russel never failed to meet the requirements of
the day ; and for three or four months scarcely a
day passed on which he did not write one or more
articles - seventy leading articles having been
written by him, we believe, day after day.” In
testimony of his literary ability and public services
a magnificent presentation of silver plate was made
to him in 1859, at the Waterloo Rooms.
The Sofsman, which has always opposed and
exposed Phansaism and inconsistency, yet the
while giving ample place to the ecclesiastical
element-a feature in Scottish everyday life quite
incomprehensible to strangers-was in the full
zenith and plenitude of its power when Alexander
Russel died, in about the thirtieth year of his
editorship and sixty-second of his age, leaving a
blank in his own circle that may never be supplied,
for he was the worthy successor of Maclaren in the
task of making the Sofsman what it is-the sole
representative of Scottish opinion in England and
abroad; “and that it represents it so that that
opinion does not need to hang its head in the
area of cosmopolitan discussion, is largely due to
the independence of spirit, the tact, the discernment
of character, and the unflagging energy by
which Mr. Russel imparted a dignity to the work
of editing a newspaper which it can hardly be said
to have possessed in his own country before his
time.”
Among other institutions of New Edinburgh to
be found in picturesque Cockburn Street, under the
very shadow of the old city, such as the Ear and Eye
Dispensary, instituted in 1822, and the rooms of
the Choral Society, are the permanent Orderly
Rooms of the Edinburgh Volunteer Artillery, and
the Queen’s Edinburgh Rifle Volunteer Brigade,
respectively at No. 27 and No. 35.
Both these corps were embodied in the summer
of 1859, when the volunteer movement was exciting
that high enthusiasm which happily has never died,
but has continued till the auxiliary army then,
self-summoned into existence, though opposed by
Government in all its stages, has now become one
of the most important institutions in the kingdom.
The City Artillery Volunteer Corps, commanded
in 1878 by Sir William Baillie, Bart., of Polkemet,
consisting of nine batteries, showed in 1880 a
maximum establishment of 519 (57 of whom were
non-efficients), 14 officers, and 36 sergeants.*
Formed in two battalions (with a third corps 01
cadets), the Queen’s Edinburgh Rifle Brigade, oi
In addition to this corps, there are the Midlothian Coast Volunteei
Artillery, whose headquarters are at Edinburgh, and who showed in
1877 a maximum establishment of 640,442 of whom werc etlicients, with
11: oficers and 30 sergeants. (Volunteer Blue Book.)
which the Lord Provost is honorary colonel, consists
now of 25 companies, seven of which were
called Highland, with a total strength on the 31st
of October, 1880, of 2,252 efficients, 106 nonefficients,
with 82 officers, 116 sergeants, extraproficients.
Since its embodiment in 1859 there
have enrolled in this corps more than I 1,537 men,
of whom 9,584 have resigned, leaving the present
strength, as stated, at 2,252.
As a shooting corps, and for the excellence of
its drill, it has always borne a high character, and
its artisan battalion is “ second to none ” among
the auxiliary forces. At the International Regimental
Match shot for in May, 1877, the Queen’s
Edinburgh Brigade were twice victorious, and in
the preceding year no less than 78 officers and
I 2 I sergeants received certificates of proficiency.
Under the new system the brigade forms a portion
of the 62nd, or Edinburgh Brigade DepGt,
which includes the two battalions of the 1st RoyaL
Scots Regiment, the Edinburgh or Queen’s Regiment
of Light Infantry Militia, and the Administrative
Volunteer Rifle Battalions of Berwick,
Haddington, Linlithgow, and Midlothian.
In St. Giles Street, which opens on the north
side of the High Street (opposite to the square in
which the County Hall stands) and turning west
joins the head of the mound, at the foot of Bank
Street, are the offices of the Daio and Weekly
Rwim; The GZasgow NwaM and the Eirening
limes share a handsome edifice, built like the rest
of the street, in the picturesque old Scottish style,
with crowstepped gables and pedirnented dormer
windows, and having inscribed along its front in
large letters :
THE COURANT, ESTAB. 1705.
To this office, which was specially designed for
the purpose by the late David Bryce, R.S.A., the
headquarters of the paper were removed from 188,
High Street; and in noticing this venerable organ
of the Conservative party, it is impossible to omit
some reference to the rise of journalism in Edinburgh,
where it has survived its old contemporaries,
as the CaZedonian Memuy, a continued serial from
1720, is now incorporated with the Scofsman, and
the Edinburgh Advt-rfiser, which started in January,
1764, ceased about 1860; hence the oldest existing
paper in the city is the Xdinburgh Gazetfe,
which appeared in 1699, the successor to a shortlived
paper of the same name, started in 1680.
The newspaper press of Scotland began during
the civil wars of the 17th century. A party of
Cromwell’s troops which garrisoned the citadel of
Leith in 1652, brought with them a printer named
Christopher Higgins, to reprint the London paper ... high enthusiasm which happily has never died, but has continued till the auxiliary army then, self-summoned ...

Vol. 2  p. 286 (Rel. 0.67)

340 OLD AND ‘NEW EDINBURGH. [George Square.
Centenary celebration in 1872 was a ‘‘ Contract
between James Brown, architect in Edinburgh, and
Walter Scott, W.S., to feu and bui!d a dnellinghouse,
with cellars, coach-house, &c., on the west
side of the great square, called George Square
(No. 25), at the annual feu of &s 14s.~ the first
payment to commence on Whit Sundayl 1773. Six
pages, each signed WaZfeer Scoft.”
In this house, then, with its back windows overlooking
the Meadow Walk, beneath its happy
my infirmity (his lameness) as she lifted me
coarsely and carelessly over the flinty steps which
my brother traversed with a shout and bound. I
remember the suppressed bitterness of the moment,
and, conscious of my own infirmity, the envy with
which I regarded the elastic steps of my more
happily-formed brethren.”
In No. 25 Scott received, from private tutors,
the first rudiments of education ; and he mentions
that “our next neighbour, Lady Cumming, sent
THE BLIND ASYLUM (FORMERLY THE HOUSE OF DR. JOSEPH BLACK), NICOLSON STREET, 1820. (AficrStom.)
parental roof, were spent the bright young years
of Scott, who there grew up to manhood under the
eye of his good mother. Among his papers, after
death, there was found a piece of verse, penned in
a boyish hand, endorsed in that of his mother,
“ My WaZter’sJfrst lines.”
“My father‘s house in George Square,” says
Scott, “continued to be my most established place
of residence (after my return from Prestonpans in
1776) till my marriage in 1797.”
Writing of an incidentof his childhood, he says:-
‘‘ Every step of the way (the Meadow Walk, behind
George Square) has for me something of an early
remembrance. There is the stile at which I
recollect a cross child‘s maid upbraiding me with
to beg that the boys might not be all flogged at the
same hour, as though she had no doubt the punishment
was deserved, yet the noise was dreadful !”
There, too, he had that long illness which confined
him to bed, and during which the boy, though
full of worldly common sense, was able to indulge
in romantic and poetical longings after a mediad
age of his own creation, and stored his mind with
those treasures of poesy and romance which he
afterwards turned to such wondrous account.
During the weary weeks of that long illness he
was often enabled to see the vista of the Meadow
Walk by a combination of mirrors so arranged that
while lying in bed he could witness the troops marching
out to exercise in the Links, or any other ... father‘s house in George Square,” says Scott, “ continued to be my most established place of ...

Vol. 4  p. 340 (Rel. 0.67)

202 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Moray Pkn.
criticsas, “beautifully monotonous, andmagnificently
dull;” and by others as the beau-ideal of a fashionable
west-end quarter ; but whatever may be their
intrinsic elegance, they have the serious and incurable
fault of turning their frontages inwards, and
shutting out completely, save from their irregular
rows of back windows, the magnificent prospect
over the valley of the Water of Leith and away to
the Forth
Moray Place, which reaches to within seventy
yards of the north-west quarter of Queen Street, is
a pentagon on a diameter of 325 yards, with an
ornate and central enclosed pleasure ground. It
displays a series of symmetrical, confronting fapdes,
adorned at regular intervals with massive, quartersunk
Doric columns, crowned by a bold entablature.
No 28, on the west side, divided afterwards,
was reserved as the residence of Francis tenth
Earl of Moray, who married Lucy, second daughter
of General John Scott, of Balcomie and Bellevue.
For years the Right Hon. Charles Hope, of
Granton, Lord President of the Court of Session,
and his son, John Hope, Solicitor-General for
Scotland in 182 2, ‘and afterwards Lord Justice
Clerk in 1841, lived in Moray Place, No. 12.
The former, long a distinguished senator and
citizen, was born in 1763. His fathty, an eminent
Loiidon merchant, and cadet of the house of
Hopetoun, had been M.P. for West Lothian.
Charles Hope was educated at the High School,
where he attained distinction as dux of the highest
class, and from the University he passed to the
bar in 1784, and two years afterwards was Judge-
Advocate of Scotland. In 1791 he was Steward
of the Orkney and Shetland Isles, and in the first
year of the century was Lord Advocate, and as
such drew out and aided the magistrates in
obtaining a Poor‘s Bill for the city, on which occasion
he was presented with a piece of plate valued
at a hundred guineas.
When the warlike Spirit of the country became
roused at that time by the menacing aspect of
France, none was more active among the
volunteer force than Charles Hope. He enrolled
as a private in the First Edinburgh Regident, and
was eventually appointed Lieut.-Colonel, and from
1801, with the exception of one year when the
the corps was disbanded at the Peace of Amiens,
he continued to command till its final dissolution
in 1814 Kay gives us an equestrian portrait
of him in 1812, clad in the now-apparently
grotesque uniform of the corps, a swallow-tailed
red coat, faced with blue and turned up with
white ; brass wings, and a beaver-covered helmethat
with a side hackle, jack boots, and white
breeches, with a leopard-skin saddle-cloth and
crooked sabre. The corps presented him with a
superb sword in 1807. He personally set an
example of unwearied exertion ; his speeches on
several occasions, and his correspondence with the
commander-in-chief, breathed a Scottish patriotism
not less pure than hearty in the common cause.
“We did not take up arms to please any Minister
or set of Ministers,” he declared on one occasion,
“but to defend our native land from foreign and
domestic enemies.”
After being M.P. for Dumfries, on the elevation
of Mr. Dundas to the peerage in 1802, he was
unanimously chosen a member for the city of
Edinburgh, and during the few years he continued
in Parliament, acted as few Lords Advocate have ever
done, and notwithstanding the pressure of imperial
matters and the threatening aspect of the times,
brought forward several measures of importance
to Scotland; but his parliamentary career was
rendered somewhat memorable by an accusation
of abuse of power as Lord Advocate, brought
against him by Mr. Whitbread, resulting in a vast
amount of correspondence and deiating in 1803-
The circumstances are curious, as stated by the
latter :-
“Mr. Momson, a farmer in Banffshire, had a
servant of the name of Garrow, wllo entered a
volunteer corps, and attended drills contrary to his
master’s pleasure; and on the 13th of October
last, upon the occasion of an inspection of the
company by the Marquis of Huntly, he absented
himself entirely from his master‘s work, in conse
quence of which he discharged him The servant
transmitted a memorial to the Lord Advocate,
stating his case, and begging to know what
compensation he could by law claim from his late
master for the injury he had suffered His
lordship gave it as his opinion that the memorialist
had no claim for wages after the time he was
dismissed, thereby acknowledging that he had
done nothing contrary to law; but he had not
given a bare legal opinion, he had prefaced it by
representing Mr. Morrison’s act as unprincipled
and oppressive, and that without proof or inquiry.
Not satisfied with this, he next day addressed a
letter to the Sheriff-substitute of Banffshire, attributing
Mr. Morrison’s conduct to disafection and
disZoyaZby.”
The letter referred to described Momson’s
conduct as “ atrocious,” and such as could only
have arisen from a spirit of treason, adding, “it is
my order to you as Sheriff-substitute of the county,
that on the first Frenchman landing in Scotland.
you do immediately apprehend and secure ... the the corps was disbanded at the Peace of Amiens, he continued to command till its final dissolution in 1814 ...

Vol. 4  p. 202 (Rel. 0.66)

Grassmarket.] EXECUTIONS IN THE GUSSMARKET. 231
Market, from the corner of Marlin’s Wynd (where
Blair Street is now) to the east end of the Grassmarket,
where it continued to be held until within
the last few years.
It was not until about a century later that this
great market place began to acquire an interest of
a gloomy and peculiar character, as the scene of
the public execution of many victims of religious
intolerance, who died heroically here, and also as
the spot where niany criminals met their doom.
Prior to the adoption of this place for public
executions, the Castle Hill and Market Cross had
been the spots chosen j and a sword, as in France
and elsewhere on the Continent, was used, before
the introduction of the Maiden, for beheading.
, Thus we find that in 1564, the magistrates, because
the old beheading sword had become worn out, reteived
from William Macartnay “ his tua-handit
sword, to be usit for ane heidmg sword,” and
gave him the sum of five pounds therefor.
Among some of the most noted eFecutions in the
Grassmarket were those of the fanatic Mitchel in
1676, for attempting to shoot Archbishop Sharp in
1668; of Sergeant John Nisbett, of Hardhill, in
1685, who had received seventeen wounds at the
battle of Pentland, and fought at Drumclog, according
to the Wodrow Biographies ; of Isabel Alison
and Marion Harvey-the latter only twenty years of
age-two young women, for merely having heard
Donald Cargill preach. The human shambles in
this place of wailing witnessed executions of this
kind almost daily till the 17th of February, 1688,
when James Renwick, the celebrated field preacher,
and the last martyr of the Covenant, was found
guilty, on his own confession, of disowning an uncovenanted
king, and executed in the twenty-sixth
yearof his age. Most of the hundred and odd
pious persons who suffered for the same cause in
Edinburgh breathed their last prayers on this spot.
Hence arose the Duke of Rothes’ remark, when a
covenanting prisoner proved obdurate, “ Then let
him glorify God in the Grassmarket”-the death
of that class of victinis always being accompanied
by much psalm-singing on the scaffold. In the time
of Charles II., Alexander Cockburn, the city hangman,
having murdered a King’s Bluegown, died here
the death he had so often meted out to others.
In 1724 the same place was the scene of the
partial execution of a woman, long remembered in
Edinburgh, as ‘‘ Half-hangit Maggie Dickson.” She
was a native of Inveresk, and was tried under
the Act of 1690 for concealment of pregnancy, in
the case of a dead child ; and the defence that she
was a married woman, though living apart from her
husband, who was working in the keels at New-
’
castle, proved of no avail, and a broadside of the
day details her execution with homble minuteness ;
how the hangman did his usual office of dragging
down her legs, and how the ’body, after hanging
the allotted time, was put into a coffin, thecooms
of which were nailed firmly to the gibbet-foot.
After a scuffle with some surgeon-apprentices
who wished to possess themselves of the body, her
friends conveyed it away by the Society Port, but
the jolting of the cart in which the coffin lay had
stirred vitality and set the blood in motion. Thus
she was found to be alive when passing Peffermiln,
and was completely restored at Musselburgh, where
flocks of people came daily to see her. She had
several children after this event, and lived long as
the keeper of an ale-house and as a crier of salt in
the streets of Edinburgh. (“ Dom Ann.” III., StaL
Acct., Vol XVI).
In the account of the Porteous Mob eo1 I.,
pp. I 28-13 I), we have referred to the executions of
Wilson and of Porteous, in 1736, in this placethe
street “crowded with rioters, crimson with
torchlight, spectators filling every window of the
tall houses-the Castle standing high above the
tumult amidst the blue midnight and the stars.”
It Continued to be the scene of such events till
1784; and in a central situation at the east end
of the market there remained until 1823 a qoassive
block of sandstone, having in its c h t r ~ a quadrangular
hole, which served as the socket of the
gallows-tree ; but instead of the stone there is now
only a St. Andrew’s Cross in the causeway to
indicate the exact spot.
The last person who suffered in the Grassmarket
was James Andrews, hanged there on the 4th of
February, 1784, for a robbery committed in Hope
Park ; and the first person executed at the west end
of the old city gaol, was Alexander Stewart, a youth
pf only fifteen, who had committed many depredations,
and at last had been convicted of breaking
into the house of Captain Hugh Dalrymple, of Fordell
in the Potterrow, and NeidpathCastle, the seat of
the Duke of Queensberry, from which he carried off
many articles of value. It was expressly mentioned
by the judge in his sentence, that he was to be
hanged in the Grassmarket, “or any other place
the magistrates might appoint,” thus indicating that
a change was in contemplation ; and accordingly,
the west end of the old Tolbooth was fitted up for
his execution, which took place on the 20th of
April, 1785.
In 1733 the Grassmarket was the scene of some
remarkable feats, performed by a couple of Italian
mountebanks, a father and his son, A rope being
fixed between the half-moon battery of the Castle, ... is now) to the east end of the Grassmarket, where it continued to be held until within the last few ...

Vol. 4  p. 231 (Rel. 0.65)

Fanester’s Wynd.] THE “MIRROR” CLUB. rzr
i “The Diurnal of Occurrents” records, that in
1566, John Sinclair, Bishop of Brechin, Dean of
Restalrig, and Lord President of the College of
Justice, died in Forrester‘s Wynd, in the house of
James Mossman, probably the same man who was a
goldsmith in Edinburgh at that time, and whose
father, also Jarnes Mossrnan, enclosed with the
present four arches the crown of Scotland, by
order of James V., when Henry VIII. closed
the crown of England. In consequence of the
houses being set on fire by the *Castle guns under
Kirkaldy, in 1572, it was ordered that all the
thatched houses between Beith’s J7ynd and St.
Giles’s should be unroofed, and that all stacks of
heather should be carried away from the streets
Fleshmarket Close ; but oftener, perhaps, in Lucky
Dunbar’s, a house situated in an alley that led
between Liberton’s Wynd and that of Forrester’s
Wynd. This Club commenced its publication of
the Mirror in January, 1729, and terminated it in
May, 1780. It was a folio sheet, published weekly
at three-halfpence. The *Lounger, to which Lord
Craig contributed largely, was commenced, by the
staff of the Mirror, on the 6th ot February, 1785,
and continued weekly till the 6th of January, 1787.
paid to their morals, behaviour, and every branch
of education.”
In this quarter Turk’s Close, Carthrae’s, Forrester’s,
and Beith’s Wynds, all stood on the slope
between Liberton’s Wynd and St. Giles’s Church ;
but every stone of these had been swept away many
years before the great breach made by the new
bridge was projected. Forrester‘s Wynd occurs so
often in local annals that it must have been a place
of some consideration.
JOHN DOWIE’S TAVERN. (Fs~m fk Engraving in How’$ YearBwk.’)
Among the members of this literary Club were Mr.
Alexander Abercrombie, afterwards Lord Abercrombie
; Lord Bannatyne ; Mr. George Home,
Clerk of Session ; Gordon of Newhall ; and a Mr.
George Ogilvie ; among their correspondents were
Lord Hailes, Mr. Baron Hurne, Dr. Beattie, and
many other eminent literary men of the time ; but
of the IOI papers of the Lounger, fifty-seven are
the production of Henry Mackenzie, including his
general review of Burns’s poems, already referred to.
In Liberton’s Wynd, we find from the Ediduygh
Advertiser of 1783, that the Misses Preston,
daughters of the late minister of Narkinch, had a
boarding school for young ladies, whose parents
“may depend that the greatest attention will be
18 ... of the Mirror, on the 6th ot February, 1785, and continued weekly till the 6th of January, 1787. paid to ...

Vol. 1  p. 121 (Rel. 0.65)

84 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Water of Leith.
he was again in his native city, when he re-entered
.the Academy, then under the charge of Sir
William Allan, and won the friendship of that
eminent landscape painter the Rev. John Thomson,
minister of Duddingstone, whose daughter he
married. After remaining five years on the Continent,
studying the works of all the great masters
in Venice, Bologna, Florence, and Rome, he settled
in London in 1838, &here his leading pictures began
to attract considerable attention. Among them
brance,” as the inscription recods it, “of his unfailing
sympathy as a friend, and able guidance as
a master.”
His brother, James Eckford Lauder, R.S.A., died
in his fifty-seventh year, on the 29th of February,
1869-so little time intervened between their deaths.
In an old house, now removed, at the north end
of Silvermills, there lived long an eminent collector
of Scottish antiquities, also an artist-W. B. Johnstone,
soine of whose works are in the Scottish
THE EDINBURGH ACADEMY.
were the U Trial of Effie Deans ” and the “ Bride
of Lammermuir,” ‘‘ Christ walking on the Waters,”
and “ Christ teaching Humility,” which now hangs
in the Scottish National Gallery. His pictures are
all characterised by careful drawing and harmonious
colouring. He was made a member of the Royal
Scottish Academy in 1830.
Returning to Edinburgh in 1850,he was appointed
principal teacher in the Trustees’ Academy, where
he continued to exercise considerable influence on
the rising school of Scottish art, till he was struck
with paralysis, and died on the zIst April, 1869,
at Wardie. A handsome monument was erected
over his grave in Wamston Cemetery by his students
of the School of Design, “ in grateful remem-
Gallery, where also hangs a portrait of him, painted
by John Phillip, R.A.
At the north-west corner of Clarence Street, in
the common stair entering from Hamilton Place,
near where stands a huge Board School, there long
resided another eminent antiquary, who was also a
member of the Scottish Academy-the well-known
James Drurnmond, whose “ Porteous Mob ” and
other works, evincing great clearness of drawing,
brilliancy of colour, and studiously correct historical
and artistic detail, hang in the National Gallery.
Immediately north of Silvermills, in what was
~ formerly called Canonmills Park, stands the
Edinburgh Deaf and Dumb Institution, a large
square edifice, built a little way back from Hender ... teacher in the Trustees’ Academy, where he continued to exercise considerable influence on the ...

Vol. 5  p. 84 (Rel. 0.64)

244 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
cost of .&3oo, and has two ornamental fronts;
respectively with Ionic pillars and a Doric porch.
St. John’s Established Church adjoins it. It was
originally a chapel of ease, but became a Free Church
from the Disruption in 1843 till 1867, when, by
adjudication, it reverted to the Establishment.
Designed by David Rhind, it has an imposing
front in the Early Pointed style, surmounted by a
lofty octagonal tower, terminating in numerous
pinnacles, and not in a tall slender spire, accord-
On the west side of Constitution Street, the way,
for nearly 300 feet, is bounded by the wall enclos
ing the burying-ground of St. Mary‘s Church, to
which access is here given by a large iron gate,
after passing the Congregational chapel at the
intersection of Laurie Street.
In No. 132 have long been established the headquarters
and orderly-room of the Leith Volunteer
Corps, numbered as the 1st Midlothian Rifles.
Originally clad in grey (like the city volunteers),
THE TOWN HALL AND ST. JOHN’S ESTABLISHED cnuRcH.
ing to the original intention of the talented
architect.
The Exchange Buildings at the foot of Constitution
Street, opposite Bernard Street, were
erected, at a cost of A16,000, in a Grecian style
of architecture, and are ornamented in front
by an Ionic portico of four columns. They
are three storeys in height, and include public
reading and assembly rooms ; but of late years
assemblies have seldom been held in Leith, though
they were usual enough in the last century. In the
Week& Magazine for I 7 76 we read of a handsome
subscription being sent by “the subscribers to a
dancing assembly in Leith,” through Sir William
Forbes, for the relief of our troops at Boston.
this regiment now wears scarlet, faced unrneanhgly
with black, and their badge is the arms of Leiththe
Virgin and Holy Child seated in the middle of
a galley, with the motto, 4‘ Persevere.” The corps
was raised when the volunteer movement began:
under Colonel Henry Amaud, a veteran officer of
the East India Company’s Service, who, in turn,
was succeeded by D. R. Macgregor, Esq., the late
popular M.P. for the Leith Burghs.
On the same side of the street stands the Catholic
Church of “Our Lady, Star of the Sea,” built in
1853. It is a high-roofed cruciform edifice, in a
coarse style of Early Gothic.
Constitution Street is continued north to the
intersection of Tower Street and the road beyond ... in a coarse style of Early Gothic. Constitution Street is continued north to the intersection of Tower ...

Vol. 6  p. 244 (Rel. 0.63)

‘745.1 THE CASTLE BLOCKADE WITHDRAWN. 331
Livingstone’s Yard, where a Highlander was
assassinated by a soldier, who crept towards him
with a pistol. The same night a party of the 47th
made a sally against the same post, and captured
Captain Robert Taylor and thirty privates.
On the morning of the 4th Preston commenced
a wanton and destructive bombardment, chiefly in
the direction of James’s Court, and continued it till
dusk, when, “led by Major Robertson, a strong
party, with slung muskets, sallied with spades and
axes to the Castle Hill, where they formed a trench
fourteen feet broad and sixteen deep, midway
between the gate and the reservoir. From the
breastwork formed by the de‘bris that night zoo
muskets, besides field pieces, continued to blaze
upon the city, in unison with the heavy 32-pounders,
which from the lofty batteries above swept the
entire length of the High Street with round shot,
grape, and canister. Many persons were killed
and wounded; but the following night the Same
operations were renewed with greater vigour.
Under this tremendous fire the 47th (then numbered
as the 48th) made another sally, pillaged all the
houses in their vicinity, and, after obtaining a
supply of bread and ale, and several barrels of
water from the reservoir, set on fire several houses,
and a deserted foundry, after which they retired
behind their trench. Many of the poor citizens
who attempted to extinguish the flames were killed,
for once more the batteries opened with greater
fury than ever. The glare of the burning houses,
the boom of so many field and battery guns, the
hallooing of the soldiers, the crash of masonry and
timber as chimneys and outshots came thundering
down on all sides, together with the incessant roar
of zoo muskets, struck the inhabitants with such
consternation, that, abandoning their houses, goods,
and chattels, they thought only of saving themselves
by flight. A miserable band of half-clad
and terrified . fugitives, bearing their children, their
aged parents, their sick and infirm friends, to the
number of many hundreds, issued from the Nether
Bow Gate, and fled towards Leith, but were met
midway by the inhabitants of that place, flying
from similar destruction, for at that time the Fox,
and LudZow CastZe, two frigates (whose captains,
from the Roads, had heard the cannonading, and
seen the blaze of the conflagration) were hauled
close in-shore, and lay broadside towards Leith,
and with a villainous cruelty-for which English
hostility towards Scotland was no apology-were
raking and bombarding the streets with the most
fatal effects. . When the fugitives met ‘all was
perplexity and dismay ; the unhappy citizens stood
still, wringing their hmds, and exe,crating the cruel
necessities of war.’ Fodteen days after, the Pox
was wrecked on the rocks of Dunbar, when Captain
Edmond Beavor and all his crew perished.”
The Highlanders maintained their posts without
Bmching amid all this peril and consternation, and
at five o’clock next evening, in defiance of field
and battery guns, led by their officers, and inspired
by their pipers, they stormed the breastwork by one
wild rush,.sword in hand, driving in the garrison,
which retired firing by platoons; but the capture
was made with such rapidity that the Prince lost.
only one officer and twenty privates. As the
trench was too exposed, it was abandoned. Several
balls went through the Luckenbooths, and many
lodged in the walls of the Weigh-house, where they
were found on its demolition in 1822 j and Charles
Edward, seeing the misery to which Preston ex-.
posed the people, generously withdrew the blockade;
and thus ended the last investment of the
Castle of Edinburgh ; and it was said to be about
this time that he made the narrow escape from,
capture in the Provost’s house in the West Bow.
An act of hostility was committed by General,
Preston on the z 1st September, when, overhearing
some altercation in the dark at the West Port,
where the Highland guard made some delay about.
admitting a lady in a coach drawn by six horses,
he ordered three guns to be loaded with grape,.
depressed, and fired. Though aimed at random,
the coach was pierced by several balls, and its fair
occupant, Mrs. Cockburn, authoress of the modern
version of the ‘:Flower$ of the Forest,” had a
narrow escape, while Willkm Earl of Dundonald,.
captain in Forbes’s Foot, who rode by her side,
had his horse shot under him. At that moment,
hlrs. Cockburn, who was returning from Ravelston,
and who was a keen Whig, had in her pocket a
burlesque parody on one cif Prince Charles’s proclamations,
to the air of ‘‘ Clout the Cauldron.”
Another hostile act was committed when the
Highland army, now increased to double its first
strength, was reviewed on the Lipks of Leith prior
to the march for England, when the guns from the
Argyle Battery compelled Charles to change the
scene of his operations to the Links of Musselburgh,
at a time when the Forth was completely
blocked up by ships of war. On the 30th the
Prince slept at Pinkie House, and “on the 31st
he commenced his memorable invasion of England,
with an army only six thousand in number, but onein
rivalry and valour. They departed in three
columns ; at the head of the third Charles marched
on foot, clad in the Highland garb, with his clay--
more in his hand, and a target slung over his left
s!ioulder.” ... chiefly in the direction of James’s Court, and continued it till dusk, when, “led by Major Robertson, ...

Vol. 2  p. 331 (Rel. 0.62)

C0NTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
THE CANONGATE.
@AGE
I& Origin-Songs concerning it-Reaords-Market Cross-St. John's and the G i h Crosses-Early History-The Town of Her-
Canongate Paved-The Governing Body-Raising the Devil-Purchase of the Earl of Roxbwgh's "Superiority"-The Foreign
Settlement-George Heriot the Elder-Huntly's HouseSu Walter Scott's Story of a Fire--The Mo- Land-How of Oliphant
of Newland, Lord David Hay, and Earl of Angus-Jack's Land-Shoemaker's Lands-Marquis of Huntly's House-Nisbet of Duleton'd
Mansion-Golfers' Land-John and Nicol Paterson-The Porch and Gatehouse of the Abbey-Lucky Spellcc . . . . . . I
CHAPTER 11.
THE CANONGATE (continwd).
Execution of the Marquis of Montrose-The First Dromedary in Scotland-The streets Cleansed-Raxbugh House--London Stages of r71a
and 175+-Religious Intolerance-Declension of the Burgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
CHAPTEK 111.
THE CANONGATE (con#i+vwd).
Closes and AlleF on the North Side-Fiesh-market and Coull's Cloxs-Canongate High School-&e's Close--Riillach's Lodging-New
Street and its Residents-Hall of the Shoemakers-Sir Thos Ddyell-The Canongate Workhouse-Panmure HousbHannah
Robertson-The White Horse Hostel-% Water Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
CHAPTER IV.
THE CANONGATE (continued).
Closes and Alleys on the South Side-Chessel's Court-The Canongate Theatre-Riots Therein-"Douglas" Performed-Mr. Diggea and Mra.
Bellamy-St. John's Close-St. John's Street and iks Residents-The Haaunennan's Clo~-Horse Wynd, Abbey-House of Lord Napier 22
CHAPTER V.
THE CANONGATE (roniinued).
Separate or Detached Edifices therein-Sir Walter Scott in the Canongate--The Parish C%urch-How it came to be built-Its Official
Position- Its Burying Ground-The Grave of Fergusson-Monument to Soldiers interred the-Ecceotric Henry PrentiaThe
Tolbth-Testimony as to its Age-Its latu uses-Magdakne Asylum-Linen Hall-Many House-Its Hstorical Associari ons-The
WiotooXo-Whiteford Howe-The Dark Story of Queuriberry House . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 7
CHAPTER VI.
THE CANONGATE (coduded).
mthiin H u t - M PalmerstowSt. Thomas's Hospita-The Tennis Court and its Theawe4&wen Mq's --The Houxr of Croftan-
Righandclock-mill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
CHAPTER ' VII.
HOLYROOD ABBEY.
Foundation of the Ahbey-Text of King David's Charter-Original Extent of the Abbey Char&-The sc-alled Miracdau b - T h e
Pawnages of the Canons-Its Tbirtyanc Abbots-Its Relics and Revenues . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 ... HousbHannah Robertson-The White Horse Hostel-% Water Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 CHAPTER ...

Vol. 4  p. 385 (Rel. 0.61)

Canongate] SIR ARCRIBALD ACHESON. 27
polished ashlar, with sculptured dormer windows,
dine stringcourses, and other architectural details of
:the period. The heavily moulded doorway, which
measures only three feet by six, is surmounted by
&he date 1633, and a huge monogram including the
initials of himself and his wife Dame Margaret
Hamilton. Over all is a cock on a trumpet and
scroll, with the motto Yzgilantibzls. He had been a
puisne judge in Ireland, and was first knighted by
Charles I., for suggesting the measure of issuing
out a commission under the great seal for the sltr-
If Hawthornden and of Sir William Alexander
Earl of Stirling.
A succession of narrow and obscure alleys
ollows till we come to the Horse Wynd, on the
LINTEL ABOVE THE DOOR OF SIR A. ACHESON’S HOWL
east side of which lay the royal stables at the time
of Darnley’s murder. In this street, on the site of a
school-house’ &c., built by the Duchess of Gordon
for the inhabitants of the Sanctuary, stood an old
tenement, in one of the rooms on the first floor of
which the first rehearsal of Home’s ‘‘ Douglas ”
took place, and in which the reverend author was
assisted by several eminent lay and clerical friends,
among whom were Robertson and Hume the
historians, Dr. Carlyle of Inveresk and the
author taking the leading male parts in the cast,
while the ladies were represented by the Rev. Dr.
Blab and Professor Fergusson. A dinner followed
in the Erskine Club at the Abbey, when they were
joined by the Lords Elibank, Kames, Milton, and
Monboddo. To the south of this house was the
town mansion of Francis Scott Lord Napier, who
inherited that barony at the demise of his grandmother,
Lady Napier, in 1706,and assumed the name
of Napier, and died at a great old age in 1773.
At its southern end the wynd was closed by an
arched gate in the long wall, which ran from the
Cowgate Port to the south side of the Abbey Close.
CHAPTER V.
THE CANONGATE (continued).
‘Separate or Detached Edifices therein-Sir Walter Scott in the CanongattThe Parish C%urch-How it came to be built-Its Official Position
--Its Burying Ground-The Grave of Ferguuon-Monument to Soldiers interred there-Ecceotric Henry Prentice-The Tolhth-
Testimony as to its Age-Its later uses-Magdalene Asylum-Linen Hall-Moray House-Its Historical Associations-The Winton House
-Whiteford House-The Dark Story of Queensbemy House.
THE advancing exigencies of the age and the of the court suburb, but there still remain some
necessity for increased space and modern sanitary ’ to which belong many historical and literary
improvements have made strange havoc among the I associations of an interesting nature. Scott was
ald alleys and mansions of the great central street ~ never weary of lingering among them, and recalling ... the south side of the Abbey Close. CHAPTER V. THE CANONGATE ( continued ). ‘Separate or Detached Edifices ...

Vol. 3  p. 27 (Rel. 0.59)

iv OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. -
CHAPTER VI.
THE VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH.
PAGE
Lady Sinclair of Dunbeath-Bell's Mills-Water of Leith Village-Mill at the Dean-Tolbwth there-Old Houses-The Dean and Poultry
-Lands thereof-The Nisbet Family-A Legend-The Dean Village-Belgrave Crescent-The Parish Church-Stewart's Hospital-
Orphan Hospita-John Watson's Hospital-The Dean Cemetery-Notable Interments there . . . . . . . . . 62
CHAPTER VII.
VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH (continued).
The Dean Bridge-Landslips at Stockbridge-Stone Coffins-Floods in the Leith-Population in ~74z-St. Bernard's Estate-Rods Tower-
" Chritopher North " in Aune Street-De Quincey there-St. Bernard's Well-Cave at Randolph Cliff-Veitchs Square-Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . in the Locality-Sir Henry Raeburn-Old Deanhaugh House ' 70
CHAPTER VIII.
VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH (concluded).
E.niiuent Men connected with Stockbridge-David Robert7. RA.--K Macleay, R.S.A.-James Browne, LL.D.-James Hogg-Sir J. Y.
Simpson, Bart. -Leitch Ritchie-General Mitchell-G. R. Luke-Comely Bank-Fettes Collegc--Craigleith Quarry-Groat Hall-Silver
Mills-St. Stephen's Church-The Brothers Lauder-Jam- Drummond, R.S.A.-Deaf and -Dumb Institution-Dean Bank Institution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -The Edinburgh Academy -78
CHAPTER IX.
CANONMILLS AND INVERLEITH.
CanonmillgThe Loch-Riots of 1784-The Gymnasium-Tanfield HalL-German Church-Zoological Gardens-Powder Hall-Rosebank
Cemetery-Red BraesThe Crawfords of Jordanhill-Bonnington-Bishop Keith-The Sugar Refinery-Pilrig-The Balfour Family-
Inverleith-Ancient ProprietorsThe Touris-The Rocheids-Old Lady Inverleith-General Crocket-Royal Botanical GardensMr.
JamesMacNab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
CHAPTER X.
THE WESTERN NEW TOWN.
Coltbridge-Roseburn House-Traditions of it-Murrayfield-Lord Henderland-Beechwood-General Leslie-The Dundaxs-Ravelston-
The Foulises and Keiths-Craigcrook-Its fint Proprietors-A Fearful Tragedy-Archibald Constable-Lord Jeffrey-Davidson's
Mains-LauristonCastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .IOZ
CHAPTER XI,
C O R S T O R P H I N E .
ContorphintSupposed Origin of the N a m t T h e Hill-James VI. hunting there-The Cross-The Spa-The Dicks of Braid and con^
phine-" Contorphine Cream '%onvalerent House-A Wraith-The Original Chapel-The Collegiate Church-Its Provosts-Its
Old Tombs-The Castle and Loch of Cohtorphine-The Forrester Family . . . . . . . . . . . . . I 12
CHAPTER XII.
rHE OLD EDINBURGH CLUBS.
Of Old Clubs, and some Notabilia of Edinburgh Life in the Last Century-The Horn Order-The Union Club-Impious Clubs--Assembly
of Birds-The Sweating Club-The Revolution and certain other Clubs-The Beggars' Benison -The Capillaim Club-The Industrious
Company-The Wig, Exulapian, Boar, Country Dinner, The East India, Cape, Spendthrift, Pious, Antemanurn, Six Feet, and
Shakespeare Clubs-Oyster Cellars-" Frolics "-The "Duke of Edinburgh" . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 ... there . . . . . . . . . 62 CHAPTER VII. VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH ( continued ). The Dean Bridge-Landslips at ...

Vol. 6  p. 394 (Rel. 0.54)

Tron Church.
sum had been paid but once in ten years, yet, if it
had been properly managed, the accumulated sum
behoved to have exceeded ~16,000 sterling."
The old spire had been partially built'of wood
covered with lead, according to a design frequently
repeated on public buildings then in Scotland. It
was copied from the Dutch ; but the examples of it
are rapidly disappearing. A bell, which cost 1,490
merks Scots, was hung in it in 1673, and continued
weekly to summon the parishioners to prayer and
-
EXPLANATION.
A The principal Entry.
B The mea 01 thrSyuare.
C The Piazza,
I3 The Coffee-room inthe west Coffec-hare.
d Rwnis aod Closets in diLlp.
a The Coffee-mm in the middk Ccffec
e Rmpis and Closets in ditm.
F The Coffee-room in the la t Coffeehoux.
f Raoms io ditto.
G The Great Sair leadiog to the Custon
H The P a q e Ieadioi 10 ditt-.
I 'An open for 1etriI.g in li6ht to the Houses
in the Writer's Court under the level of
the Square.
E The Passage belwecn the Square and
Wriicr's Court.
1. Seven Shops withiu the Square
m Four Shops behi d the raqe tvthe srect.
N Ten Shop an a line with the street.
0 An open of four feet for dcoopirg eaws
P Part ot the M'riter-5 Court.
g Area of ditto.
house. -
H0"W.
of the neighbouring houses
B
pounds yearly. It is an edifice of uninteresting
appearance and nondescript style, being neither
Gothic nor Palladian, but a grotesque mixture of
both. It received its name from its vicinity to the
Tron, or public beam for the weighing of merchandise,
which stood near it.
A very elegant stone spire, which was built in
1828, replaces that which perished in the great
conflaggation of four years before.
The Tron beam appears to have been used as
GENERAL PLAN OF THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. (Frmn an Engraviw in fhe "Scofs Mafizzine" fm 1754.)
sermon till the great fire of 1824, when it was
partly melted by heat, and fell with a mighty crash
through the blazing ruins of the steeple. Portions
of it were made into drinking quaighs and similar
memorials.
In 1678 the tower was completed by placing
therein the old clock which had formerly been in
the Weigh House.
Towards the building of this church the pious
Lady Yester gave 1,000 merks. In 1703 the
magistrates appointed two persons to preach alternately
in the Tron Church, to each of whom they
gave a salary of forty guineas, as the Council Re-,
gister shows ; but about 1788 they contented themselves
with one preacher, to whom they gave fifty
a pillory for the punishment of crime. In Niccol's
'' Diary" for 1649, it is stated that " much falset
and cheitting was daillie deteckit at this time by
the Lords of Sessioune; for the whilk there was
daillie nailing of lugs and binding of people to the
Trone, and boring of tongues; so that it was a
fatal year for false notaries and witnesses, as daillie
experience did witness."
On the night of Monday, the 15th of November,
1824, about ten o'clock, the cry of "Fire ! " was
heard in the High Street, and it spread throughout
the city from mouth to mouth ; vast crowds came
from all ,quarters rushing to the spot, and columns
of smoke and flame were seen issuing from the
second *floor of e house at the head of the old ... A bell, which cost 1,490 merks Scots, was hung in it in 1673, and continued weekly to summon the parishioners to ...

Vol. 1  p. 188 (Rel. 0.53)

192 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. lThe High S e e a
and Sweden, tells us, at the storming of Boitzenburg,
there was “ a Scottish gentleman under the
enemy, who, coming to scale the walls, said aloud,
‘Have with you, gentlemen ! Thinke not now
you are on the streel of Edhlburgh bravading.’ One
of his own countrymen thrusting him through the
body with a pike, he ended there.”
In the general consternation which succeeded
* the defeat of the army at Flodden a plague raged
within the city with great violence, and carried off
great numbers. Hence the Town Council, to prevent
its progress,
ordered all shops
and booths to be
closed for the space
of fifteen days, and
neither doors nor
windows to be
opened within that
time, but on some
unavoidable occasion,
and nothing
to be dealt in but
necessaries for the
immediate support
of life. All vagrants
were forbidden
to walk in the
streets without hiving
each a light;
and several houses
that had been occupied
by infected
persons were demolished.
*
In 1532 the
High Street was
first paved or causewayed,
and many of
the old tenements
“These, however,” says Arnot, “are not to be
considered as arguing any comparative insignificancy
in the city of Edinburgh. They proceeded
from the rudeness of the times. The writers of
those days spoke of Edinburgh in terms that show
the respectable opinion they entertained of it. ‘ In
this city,’ says a writer of the sixteenth century-
Braun Agrippinensis--‘ there are two spacious
streets, of which the principal one, leading from
the Palace to the Castle, is paved with square
stones. The city itself is not built of bricks,
ANDREW CROSBY. (Fmm the Portrait in tkePadiament Haii.)
[The orkinal ofCuunseZZnr PLydelZ in “ Guy Mamneiing.“]
renovated. The former was done under the superintendence
of a Frenchman named Marlin, whose
name was bestowed on an alley to the south. The
Town Council ordered lights to be hung out by
night by the citizens to light the streets, and Edinburgh
became a principal place of resort from all
parts of the kingdom.
Till the reign of James V., the meal-market, and
also the flesh-market, were kept in booths in the
open High Street, which was also encumbered by
stacks of peat, heather, and other fuel, before every
door; while, till the middle of the end of the seventeenth
century, according to Gordon’s map, a fleshmarket
was kept in the Canongate, immediately
below the Nether Bow.
but of square freestones,
and so
stately is its app
ear an c e, that
single houses inay
be compared to
palaces. From the
abbey to the castle
there is a continued
street, which on
both sides contains
a range of excellent
houses. and the
better sort are built
of hewn stone.’
There are,” adds
Amot, ‘‘ specimens
oT the buildings of
the fifteenth century
still (1779) remaining,
particularly
a house on
the south side of
the High Street,
immediately above
Peeble’s Wynd,
having a handsome
front of hewn stone,
and niches in the
walls for the images of saints, which may justify
our author‘s description. The house was built
about 1430 (temp. James I.) No private building
in the city of modern date can compare
with it.”
The year 1554 saw the streets better lighted,
and some attempts made to clean them.
The continual wars with England compelled the
citizens to crowd their dwellings as near the Castle
as possible ; thus, instead of the city increasing in
limits, it rose skyward, as we have already mentioned
; storey was piled on storey till the streets
resembled closely packed towers or steeples, each
house, or “land,” sheltering from twenty to thirty
families within its walls. This was particularly thc ... to palaces. From the abbey to the castle there is a continued street, which on both sides contains a range ...

Vol. 1  p. 192 (Rel. 0.53)

CON TENTS. V
CHAPTER XIII.
THE DISTRICT OF RESTALRIG.
PAGE
Abbey Hill-Baron Norton-Alex. Campbell and 'I Albjm's Anthology "--Comely Gardens-Easter Road-St. Margaret's Wellxhurch
and Legend of St. Tnduana-Made Collegiate bv James 111.-The Mausoleum-Old Barons of Restalrig-The Logans, &c-
Conflict of Black Saturday-Residents of Note-First Balloon in Britain-Rector Adams-The Nisbeb of Craigantinnie and Dean
-The Millers-The Craixantinnie Tomb and Marbles-The Marionville Tragedy-The Hamlet of Jock's Lodge-Mail-bag Robberies
in Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries-Piemhill House and Barracks. . . . . . . . . . . . . I 27
CHAPTER XIV.
PORTOBELLO.
Portobell~The Site before the Houses-The Figgate Muir--ctone Coffiqs-A Meeting with Cramwell-A Curious Race-Portobello Hut-
Robbers-William Jamieson's Feuing-Sir W. Scott and "The Lay "-Portobello Tower-Review of Yeomanry and Highlanders-
Hugh Miller-David Lamg-Joppa-Magdalene Bridge-Rrunstane House . . . . . . . . . . . . I43
CHAPTER XV.
LEITH WALK.
A Pathway in the 15th Century probable-Genera1 Leslie's Trenches-Repulse of Cramwell-The Rood Chapel-Old Leith Stazes-Propsal
for Lighting the Walk-The Gallow Lea-Executions there-The Minister of Spott- Five Witches-Five Covenanters-The Story of
their Skulls-The Murder of Lady Baillie-The Effigies of "Johnnie Wilkes" . . . . . . . . , . . 150
CHAPTER XVI.
LEITH WALK (conchfed).
East Side-Captain Haldane of the Tabernacle-New Road to Haddington -Windsor Street-Mrs H. Siddons -Lovers' Loan-Greenside
House-Andrew Macdonald. the Author of" Vimonda "-West Side-Sir J. Whiteford of that Ilk-Gayfield House-Colonel Crichton
--Prince Leopold-Lady Maxwell-Lady Nairne-SFr;ngfield-McCulloch of Ardwell and Samuel Foote . . . . . ' 157
CHAPTER XVII.
LEITH-HISTORICAL SURVEY.
Origin of the Name-Boundaries of South and North Leith-Links of North Leith-The Town frrst mentioned in History--King Robert's
Charter-Superiority of the Logans and Magistrates of Edinburgh-Abbot Ballantyne's Bridge and Chapel-Newhaven given to
Edinburgh by Jam- 1V.-The Port of 153c-The Town Burned by the English . . . . , . . . . . - . 164
CHAPTER XVIII.
LEITH-HISTORICAL SURVEY (continued).
The Great Siege-Arrival of the French-The Fortifications-Re-capture of Inchkeith-The Town Invested-Arrival of the English Fleet
and Army-Skirmishes-Opening of the BatteriesFailure of the Great Assault-Queen Regent's Death-Treaty of Peace-Relics of
thesiege . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .r7o
CHAPTER XIX.
LEITH-HISTORICAL SURVEY (catinued).
rhc Fortifications demolished-Landing of Queen Mary-Leith Mortgaged-Edinburgh takes Military Pasession of it-A Convention-A
Plague-James VI. Departs and Returns -Witches-Cowrie Con%pkacy-The Union Jack-Pirates-Taylor the Water Poet-
A Fight in the Harbour-Death of Jamer VI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , 178 ... to Edinburgh by Jam- 1V.-The Port of 153c-The Town Burned by the English . . . . , . . . . . - . 164 CHAPTER ...

Vol. 6  p. 395 (Rel. 0.52)

iv .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER VIII.
HOLYROOD ABBEY (mnrZu&d).
PAGE
Charter of W X i I.-Trial of the Scottish TemplarsPrendergast’s Reveng-ters by ROM 11. and 111.-The Lord of the Isles
--Coronation of Jams IL-Muliaper of Jam- 11. and III.-Church, &c, burned by the English-Plundered by them-Its
Restoration by Jam- VII.-The Koyal Vault-Dexription of the Chapel Royal-Plundered at the Revolution-Ruined in r+The
West Front-The Belhaven Monument--The Churchyard-Extent of Present Ruin-The Sanctuary-The Abbey Bells . . . . 50
CHAPTER ,IX.
HOLYROOD PALACE.
First Notice of its History-Marriage of James 1V.-The Scots of the Days of Flodden-A Bnwl in the Palace-James V.’s Tower-The
Gudeman of Ballengeich-His MarriageDeath of Queen Magdalene-The Council of November, 192-A Standing h y Proposed-
The Muscovite Ambarradon Entermined by the Queen Regent . . - . . . . . , . . . . . . 60
CHAPTER X.
HOLYROOD PALACE (continued). .
Queen Mary‘a Apartments-Her Arrival in Edinburgh-Riot in the Chapel Royal-“The Queen’s Manes”-Interview with Knox-
Mary‘s Marriage with Darnley-The Podtion of G o - T h e Murder of Rizrio-Burial of Darnley-Marriage of Mary and Bothwell-
Mary’s Last Visit to Holyd-Jams VI. and the “ Mad” Earl of BothweU-Baptism of the Queen of Bohemia and Charles I.-
Taylor the Water-poet at Holyrood-Charles I.’s Imprisonment-Palace Burned and Re-built-The Palace before 165eThe F‘resent
Palace-The Quadrangle-The Galluyof the Kings-The Tapestry-The Audiepce-Chamber . . . . . . . . . 66
.
CHAPTER XI.
HOLYROOD PALACE (comZu&dJ.
The King’s Birthday in 166~-Jams Duke of Alhany-The Duchess of Alhany and General Dabell-Funeral of the Duke of Rothes-
A Gladiatorial Exhibition-Depamuc of the Scottish Household Troops-The Hunters’ Company’s Balls-First and Second
Via of the p y a l Family of France-Recent Impropunents-St. h e ’ s Yard removed-The Ornamental Fountain built . . , 74 . . . .
CHAPTER XII.
THE MOUND.
The North Loch used for Sousings and DuckinPThe Boats, Swans, Ducks, and Eels-Accidents in the Loch-Last Appearance of the
Loch-Formation of the Mound--“ Geordie Boyd‘s Mud Brif-The Rotunda-Royal Institution-Board of Manufactures-History of
the Board-The Equivalent Money-Sii J. Shaw Lefenr’s Report-School of Design-Gallery of Sculpture-Royal Society of
Edinburgh-Museum of Antiquities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
CHAPTER XIII.
THE MOUND (conduded).
The Art Galleries-The National Gallery-The Various Collections-The Royal Scottish Academy-Early Scottish Artists-The Institntion-
The First Exhibition in Edinburgh-Foundation of the Academy-Presidents : G. Watson, Si Wdliam Allan, Si J. W.
Gordon, Sir Carge Harvey, Si Daniel Macnee-The Spaldmg Fund , . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
- CHAPTER XIV.
THE HEAD OF THE MOUND.
The Bank of Scotland-Its Charter-%dry of the Royal Bank Notes for L5 and for *-The New Bank of Scotland-Its Present Aspect
-The Projects of Mr. Trotter and Sir Thomas Dick Lauder-The National Security Savings Bank of Edinburgh-The Fm
Church College and Assembly Hall-Their Foundation-Constitution-Library-Museum-B and Theological
Societies-The Dining Hall, &.-The West Princes Street Gardens-The Proposed Canal and Seaport-The East F’rince~ Street . Gardens-Railway Terminus-Waverley Bridge and Market . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . 93 ... . . - . . . . . , . . . . . . 60 CHAPTER X. HOLYROOD PALACE ( continued ). . Queen Mary‘a Apartments-Her ...

Vol. 4  p. 386 (Rel. 0.51)

- - -
who had come to pity, there were more than a
hundred whose hearts were filled with a tiger-like
ferocity, which the clergy had inspired to a dangerous
degree, and for the most ungenerous purpose.”
The women of the kail-market and the ‘‘ saints
of the Bowhead” were all there, their tongues
trembling with abuse, and their hands full of stones
or mud to launch at the head of the fallen Cavalier,
who passed through the Water Gate at four in
the afternoon, greeted by a storm of yells. Seated
on a lofty hurdle, he was bound with cords so
tightly that he was unable to raise his hands to
save his face; preceded by the magistrates in
their robes, he was bareheaded, his hat having
been tom from him. Though in the prime of manhood
and perfection of manly beauty, we are told
that he “ looked pale, worn, and hollow-eyed, for
many of the wounds he had received at Invercarron
were yet green and smarting. A single
horse drew the hurdle, and thereon sat the executioner
of the city, clad in his ghastly and sable
livery, and wearing his bonnet as a mark of disrespect.’’
He was escorted by the city guard, under
the notorious Major Weir-Weir the wizard, whose
terrible fate has been recorded elsewhere.
In front marched a number of Cavalier prisoners,
bareheaded and bound with cords. Many
of the people now shed tears on witnessing this
spectacle ; but, says Khcaid, they were publicly
rebuked by the clergy, “ who declaimed against
this movement of rebel nature, and reproached
them with their profane tenderness ; ” while the
“Wigton Papers ” state that how even the widows
and the mothers of those who had fallen in his
wars wept for Montrose, who looked around him
With the profoundest serenity as he proceeded
up the Canongate, even when he came to Moray
House-
“Then, as the Graham looked upward, he met the ugly
was one living mass of human beings ; but for one I where, by an unparalleled baseness, Argyle, with
the chief men of his cabal, who never durst look
Montrose in the face while he had his sword in
his hand, appeared in the balcony in order to feed
merrily their sight with a spectacle which struck
horror into all good men. But Montrose astonished
them with his looks, and his resolution confounded
them.”
Then with broad vulgarity the marchioness spat
full in his face ! Argyle shrank back at this, and
an English Cavalier who stood among the crowd
below reviled him sharply, while Lorne and his
bride continued to toy and smile in the face of
the people. (“ Wigton Papers.”)
So protracted was this melancholy spectacle that
seven o’clock had struck before the hurdle reached
the gate of the Tolbooth, where Montrose, when
unbound, gave the executioner a gold coin, saying
-‘‘ This-is your reward, my man, for driving the
cart.”
On the following day, Sunday, the ministers in
their pulpits, according to Wishart, rebuked the
people for not having stoned him. One declared
that “he was a faggot of hell, and that he already
saw him burning,” while he was constantly
taunted by Major Weir as “a dog, .atheist, and
murderer.”
The story of Montrose’s execution on the z1st
of May, when he was hanged at the Cross on a
gibbet thirty feet high, with the record of his
battles suspended from his neck, how he died
with glorious magnanimity and was barbarously
quartered, belongs to the general annals of the
nation ; but the City Treasurer‘s account contains
some curious items connected with that great legal
tragedy :-
1650. Ffebruar. To making a scaffold at ye Cross
for burning ye Earl of Montrose’s papers . 2 8 0
May 13. For making a seat on a cart to carry him
from ve Water Gate to ve Tolbooth . IZ 16 o
‘
into the street was Argyle, with a gay bridal party
in their brave dresses. His son, Lord Lorne, had
just been wedded to the Earl of Moray’s daughter,
deeperand covering it again . . I 16 0
Pd. for sharping the axe for striking
away the head, legs, and arms from
the body. . . . . . o 12 0
,, ... reviled him sharply, while Lorne and his bride continued to toy and smile in the face of the people. ...

Vol. 3  p. 14 (Rel. 0.49)

One of her chief intimates was the unfortunate
Lady Jane Douglas of Grantully, the heroine of
the long-contested Douglas cause. She
contemplated the approach of her own
death with perfect calmness, and in
anticipation of her coming demise had
all her grave-clothes ready, and the ,
turnpike stair whitewashed. When
asked by her only son, Archibald
(before mentioned), if she wished to
be put in the family burial vault at
Beaufort, in Kilmorack, she replied, I
Indeed, Archie, ye needna put your- '
sel' to any fash aboot me, for I
carena' though ye lay me aneath that ,
hearthstane."
She died in her house at the Wynd
head, in 1796, in the eighty-sixth
year of her age. The old Scottish
&ling-pin of her house door is now
preserved in the Museum of the '
Scottish Antiquarian Society.
Lovat, who died a Lieutenant-General
in 1782, was a man of irreproachable
character, who inherited nothing of
old Lovat's nature but a genius for
Her stepson, Sirnon, Master of TIRLISO-PIN, FKOM LADY
LOVAT'S HOUSE, BLACKFRIARS
WYND.
(From *hsco*tish M?,srum.)
service in America. The rapidity with which the
ranks of previous Highland regiments, raised by
making fine speeches. He raised the Fraset
Highlanders, or old 71st regiment, which was
disbanded in 1783, after a career of brilliant
the bloody brawl between the Earl of Bothwell
and Sir William Stewart of Monkton.
Between these two a quarrel had taken place in
him in 1757, were filled by Frasers,
so pleased George III., that on the
embodiment of the 71st he received
from the king a free grant of his
family estates of Lovat, which had
been forfeited by his father's attainder
after Culloden.
At the first muster of the 71st in
Glasgow, an old Highlander, who had
brought a son to enlist, and was looking
on, shook the general's hand with that
familiarity so common among clansmen,
and said, " Simon, you are a good
soldier, and speak like a man ! While
you live old Simon of Lovat will never
die "-alluding to his close resemblance
personally to his father, the
wily old lord of the memorable "Fortyfive."
Blackfriars Wynd, which has now
become a broad street, has many
a stirring memory of the great and
powerful, who dwelt there in ages
past j hence it is that Sir Alexander
Boswell wrote-
" What recollections rush upon my mind,
Of Lady Stair's Close and BZackfk'ws Wynd!
There once our nobles, and here judges dwelt ."
CHAPTER XXXI.
ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET (continued:.
Blackfriars Wynd-The Grant of Alexander 11.-Bothwell slays S'r Williiam Stem-Escape of Archbishop Shar&Cameronian Meeting
house-The House of the Regent Morton-Catholic Chapels of the Eighteenth Century-Bishop Hay-" No Popery *' Riots-Baron
Smith's Chapel-Scottish Episcopalians -House of the Prince of Orkney- Magnificence of Earl William Sinclair-Cardinal Beaton's
House-The Cardinal's Armorial Bearing-Historical Associations of his HouscIts Ultimate Occupants-The United Industrial School.
A BROAD $end (AngZic6 archway), leading through
the successor to the tenement in which Lady Lovat
dwelt, gave access to the Blackfriars Wynd, which,
without doubt, was one of the largest, most important,
and ancient of the thoroughfares diverging
from the High Street, and which of old was named
the Preaching Friar's Vennel, as it led towards the
Dominican monastery, or Black Friary, founded
by Alexander II., in 1230, on the high ground
beyond the Cowgate, near where the Old Infirmary
stands. The king gave the friars-among
whom he resided for some time-with many other
endowments, a grant of the whole ground now
occupied by the old wynd and modern street, to
erect houses, and for five centuries these edifices ... Stair's Close and BZackfk'ws Wynd! There once our nobles, and here judges dwelt ." CHAPTER ...

Vol. 2  p. 258 (Rel. 0.49)

Cockburn Street.] MACLAREN
tiny sheet at first. “To the daily and bi-weekly
editions, a weekly publication, composed of selections
from the others, was added in 1860, representing
also the venerable CaZedoninn Mercury. A
few years ago the bi-weekly paper was merged into
the daily edition, whicA most of the subscribers
had come to prefer. In all its various forms
the Scofsman has enjoyed a most gratifying run of
prosperity.”
By 1820 the paper having become firmly established,
Mr. Maclaren resumed the editorship,
and very few persons now can have an idea of the
magni6de of- the task he
had to undertake. “Corruption
and arrogance,” says
the memoir already quoted,
“ were the characteristics of
the party in power-in
power in a sense of which
in these days we know
nothing. The people of
Scotland were absolutely
without voice either in vote
or speech. Parliamentary
elections, municipal government,
the management of
public bodies-everything
was in the hands of a few
hundred persons. In Edinburgh,
for instance, the
member of Parliament was
elected and the government
of the city camed on by
thirty - two persons, and
almost all these thirty-two
took their directions from
4ND RUSSEL 285
of the proudest proofs of his mechanical sagacity is
his having clearly foreseen and boldly proclaimed the
certain success of locomotion by railways, while as
yet the whole subject was in embryo or deemed a
wild delusion. A series of his articles on this
matter appeared in the Scofsman for December,
1824 and were translated into nearly every
European language; and Smiles, in his life of
Stephenson, emphatically acknowledges Maclaren’s
keen foresight in the subject. His great conversational
and social qualities lie apart from the
history of his journal, which he continued to edit
till compelled by ill-health
UEXANDER RUSSEL.
(Fmm a Phfograjh by 7. Moffat, Edidurgk.)
the Government of the day, or its proconsul.
Public meetings were almost unknown, and a free
press may be said to have never had an existence.
Lord Cockburn, in his ‘ Life of Jeffrey,’ says :-‘ I
doubt if there was a public meeting held in Edinburgh
between the year 1795 and the year 1820,’
and adds, in 1852, that ‘ excepting some vulgar,
stupid, and rash’ newspapers which lasted only
a few days, there was ‘no respectable opposition
paper, till the appearance of the Scofsman, which
for thirty-five years has done so much for the
popular cause, not merely by talent, spirit, and
consistency, but by independent moderation.”’
Its tone from the first had been that of a decided
Whig, and in church matters that of a ‘‘ voluntary.”
Apart from his ceaseless editorial labours, Mr.
Maclaren enriched the literature of his country by
many literary and scientific works, the enumeration
of which is somewhat unnecessary here ; but one
td resign in 1847. He
died in 1866, sfter having
lived in comparative retirement
at his suburban
villa in the Grange Loan, in
his eighty-fourth year, having
been born in 1782, at
Ormiston, in West Lothian.
In the management of
the paper he was ably succeeded
by Alexander Russel,
a native of Edinburgh,
who, after editing one or
two provincial journals,
became connected with the
Scotsmen in 1845, as assistant
editor. . He was a Whig
of the old Fox school, and
contributed many brilliant
articles to the Edinburgh
and Quurferb Reviews, the
“Encyclopzedia Britannica,”
and also B/ackwood’s Magazine.
As editor of the Scotsman he soon attracted
the attention of Mr. Cobden and other
leaders of the Anti-corn-law agitation, and his
pen was actively employed in furtherance of the
objects of the League ; and among the first subjects
to which he turned his attention in the S2ofsman
was the painful question of Highland destitution in
1847. A notable local conflict in which the paper
took a special interest was that of ~ 8 5 6 , on the
final retirement of Macaulay from the representation
of Edinburgh, and the return of Adam Black,
the eminent publisher ; and among many matters
to which this great Scottish journal lent all its
weight and advocacy in subsequent years, was the
great centenary of Robert Bums.
To the change in the Stamp Act we have already
referred-a change which, by the introduction of
daily papers, entailed an enormous increase of
work upon the editors ; but we are told that “ Mr. ... lie apart from the history of his journal, which he continued to edit till compelled by ill-health UEXANDER ...

Vol. 2  p. 285 (Rel. 0.47)

... Vlll OLD' AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
, T H E W E S T B 0 W (conclud-d.) PAGE
A Hand to Hand Combat in the Bow-Murder'in 1h5 in the Bow-The House of Lord Ruthven-The Hidden Sword-Processions in the
Bow-The Jacobite Prisoners-House of Provost Stewart-A Secret Entertainment to Prince Charles-Donaldson the Printer-State of
Printing and Publishing in his Day-The Edimburck Adwcrfiser-Splendid Fortunc of his Descendant-Town House ,of the
Napiers of Wrightshouse-Trial of Barbara Napier for Witchcdt-Clcckmaker's Land-Paul Romieu-The Mahogany Land-
Duncan Campbell, Chirurgeon-Templar Houses
.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
CHAPTER XL.
E D I N B U R G H I N 1745.
Pmvost Stewart-Advance of the Jacobite Clans-Preparations far DefenctCapturc of the City-Lachiel's Surp&-Entance of Prince
Charles-Arrival at Holyrood-JamesVIII. Proclaimed at the Cross-Conduct of the Highland Tmps in the City-Colquhoun Grant-
A Triumphal ProcessiOn--Guest's Council of War-Preston's Fidelity . . . . . . . . . . . . . jZZ
CHAPTER XLI.
EDINBURGH IN 1745 (concluded),
General Guest's "Brave~~"-Popularity of the Prince-Castle Blockaded-It Fires on the City-Leith Bombarded-End of the Blockade
-Departure of the Highland Army for ' England-Prisoners in the Castle-Macdonald of Teindreich-Duke of Cumberland in
Ediiburgh-Burning of the Standards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
CHAPTER XLII.
T H E NORTH BRIDGE.
The New Town projected by Jams VIL-The North Bridge and other Structures by the Earl of Mar, 1728-Oppased in 175g-Foundation
Stone Laid-Erection Delayed till 1$5-Henderson's Plan-William Mylne appointed Architect-Terms of the Contract-Fall of the
Bridge-Repired and Completed--The Upper and Lower Flesh-Markets-Old Post OffictAdam Black-Ann Street-The Ettrick
Shepherd and the .. Nocks"-The Bridge Widened . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
CHAPTER XLIII.
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE.
Dingwall's Castle-Whitefield's " Preachings "-History of the Old Theatre Royal-The Building-David Ross's Management-Leased to
Mr. Foote-Then to Mr. Digges-Mr. Moss-Mrs. Yates-Next Leased to Mr. Jackson-The Siddons Ram-Reception of the Great
Actress-Mrs. Baddeley-New Patent-the playhouse Riot--"The Scottish Roscius"-A Ghost-Expiry of the Patent . . . 340
CHAPTER XLIV..
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (continued).
Old Theatre Royal-Management of Mr. Henry Siddons-Mr. Mumy-Miss O'Neill-Production of Rd Roy-Visit of George IV. to the
Theatre- Eoinburgh Theatrical Fund-Scott and his Novels-Retirement of Mr. Mumy-The Management of Mr. and ME.
Wyndham-The Closing Night of the Theatre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
CHAPTER XLV.
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (codinwed).
Memorabilia of the General Post Office-First Postal Svstem in Scotland-First Communication with Irdand-Sanctions given by the Scottish
Parliament-Expenses of the Establkhment at various Periods-The Horse Posts-Violation of Letter Bags-Casualties of the Period-
The First Stage Coach-Peter Willison-The Various Post Ofice Buildings--The Waterloo Place Office-Royal Arms Removed-
New 06ce Built-Staffand F d Details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .353
CHAPTER XLVI.
EAST SIDE OF THE NORTH BRIDGE (concluded).
The Old Orphan Hospital-It5 Foundation, Object, and Removal-Lady Glenorchy's Chapel-Her Disputes with the Presbytery-Dr. Snell
JonesDemolition of the Chapel and School-Old PhysiC Gardens Formed-The Gardens-& Andrew Balfour-James Suthe.-land-
. Inundatedin ~~Sutherland5EffortstoImprovetheGardens-ProfessorHope . . . . . . . . . . . 359 ... Patent-the playhouse Riot--"The Scottish Roscius"-A Ghost-Expiry of the Patent . . . ...

Vol. 2  p. 390 (Rel. 0.47)

140 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Giles's Church.
establishment, and Maitland gives us a roll of the
forty chaplaincies and altarages therein.
An Act of Council dated twelve years before
this event commemorates the gratitude ,of the
citizens to one who had brought from France a
relic of St. Giles, and, modernised, it runs thus :-
*' Be it kenned to all men by these present letters,
we, the provost, bailies, counselle and communitie
of the burgh of Edynburgh, to be bound
and obliged to William Prestoune of Gourton, son
and heir to somewhile iVilliam Prestoune of Gourton,
and to the friends and sirname
of them, that for so much
that William Prestoune the
father, whom God assoile, made
diligent labour, by a high and
mighty prince, the King of
France (Charles VII.), and
many other lords of France, for
getting the arm-bone of St. Gile,
the which bone he freely left to
our mother kirk of St. Gile of
Edinburgh, without making any
condition. We, considering the
great labour and costs that he
made for getting thereof, promise
that within six or seven years,
in all the possible and goodly
haste we may, that we shall
build an aisle forth from our
Ladye aisle, where the said William
lies, the said aisle to be
begun within a year, in which
aisle there shall be brass for his
lair in bost (it., for his grave in
embossed) work, and above the
brass a writ, specifying the
bringing of that Rylik by him
into Scotland, with his arms, and
his arms to be put in hewn
church of his name in the Scottish quarter of
Bruges, and on the 1st of September is yearly
borne through the streets, preceded by all thedrums
in the garrison.
To this hour the arms of Preston still remain in
the roof of the aisle, as executed by the engagement
in the charter quoted; and the Prestons
continued annually to exercise their right of bearing
the arm of the patron saint of the city until
the eventful year 1558, when the clergy issued
forth for the last time in solemn procession on
the day of his feast, the 1st
SEAL OF ST. G1LES.t (A ffw Henry Lain&.
work, in three other parts of the aisle, with book
and chalice and all other furniture belonging
thereto. Also, that we shall assign the chaplain
of whilome Sir William of Prestoune, to sing at the
altar from that time forth. . . . . Item, that
as often as the said Rylik is borne in the year,
that the sirname and nearest of blood of the said
William shall bear the said Rylik, before all
others, &c. In witness of which things we have
set to our common seal at Edinburgh the 11th
day of the month of January, in the year of our
Lord 1454"*
The other arm of St. Giles is preserved in the
Frag. : " Scotomomastica."
September, bearing with them
a statue of St. Giles-"a marmouset
idol," Knox calls itborrowed
from the Grey Friars,
because the great image of the
saint, which was as large as life,
had been stolen from its place,
and after being '' drouned " in
the North Loch as an encourager
of idolatry, was burned
as a heretic by some earnest
Reformers. Only two years
before this event the Dean of
Guild had paid 6s. for painting
the image, and Izd. for
polishing the silver arm containing
the relic. To give dignity
to this last procession the
queen regent attended it in
person; but the moment she
left it the spirit of the mob
broke forth. Some pressed close.
to the image, as if to join in
its support, while endeavouring
to shake it down; but this.
proved impossible, so firmly was
it secured to its supporters; and
the struggle, rivalry, and triumph
of the mob were delightful -to Knox, who described
the event with the inevitable glee in which
he indulged on such occasions.
Only four years after all this the saint's silverwork,
ring and jewels, and all the rich vestments,
wherewith his image and his arm-bone were wont
to be decorated on high festivals, were sold by
the authority of the magistrates, and the proceeds
employed in the repair of the church.
f Under a canopy supported by spiral columns a full-length figure of.
St. Giles with the nimbus, holding the crozier in his right hand, and ih
his left a Look and a branch. A kid, the usual attendant on St. Giles,
is playfully leaping up to his hand. On the pedestal is a shield bearing
the castle triple-towered, S. COMMUNE CAPTI BTI EGIDII DEEDINBURGH.
(Apfindrd to a chartrr by the Provost [ Waite, FodesJ d Chuptrr
of St. Gdes of fke man= andgkk in favmrof the magisfrates and'
conzmndy of Edindrryh, A.D. 1496.") ... by the engagement in the charter quoted; and the Prestons continued annually to exercise their right of ...

Vol. 1  p. 140 (Rel. 0.45)

not of reptiles. “ Thus was dissipated the illusion,
founded on the Burdiehouse fossils, that saurian
. reptiles existed in the carboniferous era. To this
CHAPTER XLI.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continwed).
Gilmerton-The Kinlochs-Legend of the Bumtdale-Paterson’s C a v e T h e Drum House-The Somrrville Family-Roslin Castle-The
St. Clairs-Roslin Chauel-The Buried Barons-Tomb of Earl George-The Under Chapel-The Battle of Roslin-Relics of it-
In the chalk formations hereabout fossil remains
of the prickly palm have been frequently found,
and they have also been found in the lime-pits of
Roslin Village-Its old Inn.
GILMERTON, a village and puuad sncra parish
detached from Liberton, occupies the brow o
rising ground about four miles south from the
city, on the Roxburgh road, with a church, buill
in 1837, and the ancient manor-house of the
Kinlochs, known as the Place of Gilmerton, on the
south side of which there were in former times
butts for the practice of archery.
The subordinate part of the village consists 01
some rather unsightly cottages, the abodes of col.
liers and carters, who sell “yellow sqnd” in the
city.
Robert Bruce granted a charter to Murdoch
Menteith of the lands of Gilmerton, in which it
was stated that they had belonged of old to William
Soulis, in the shire of Edinburgh, and afterwards
he granted another charter .of the same
lands, “ quhilk Soulis foresfecit ” (sic), with ‘‘ the
barony of Prenbowgal (Barnbougle), quhilk was
Roger Mowbray’s.”
This was evidently Sir William de Soulis,
Hereditary Butler of Scotland, whose grandfather,
Nicholas, had been a competitor for the crown as
gtandson of Marjorie, daughter of Alexander II.,
and wife of Allan Durward. William was forfeited
as a traitor in English pay, and a conspirator
against the life of Robert I. He was condemned
to perpetual imprisonment by the Parliament in
1320.
After this, it is traditionally said to have been
the property of a family named Heron, or Herring.
At a much more recent period, the barony of Gilnierton
belonged to John Spence of Condie, Advocate
to Queen Mary in 1561, and who continued
as such till 1571. He had three daughters. “One
of them,” says Scotstarvit, ‘’ was married to Herring
of Lethinty, whose son, Sir David, sold all his lands
of Lethinty, Gilmerton, and Glasclune, in his own
time. Another was married to James Ballantyne of
Spout, whose son James took the same course.
The third to Sir John Moncrieq by whom he had
(“ Index of Charters.”)
an only son, who went mad, and leaped into the
River Earn, and there perished.”
In the next century Gilmerton belonged to the
Somervilles of Drum, as appears by an Act of
Ratification by Parliament, in 1672, to James
Somerville, of the lands of Drum and Gilmerton;”
and after him they went to the family of Kinloch,
whose name was derived from a territory in Fifeshire,
and to this family belongs the well-known
reel named “ Kinloch of Kinloch.” Its chief, Sir
David, was raised to a baronetage of Nova Scotia,
by James VII., in the year 1685, but the title became
extinct upon the failure of male descendants,
though there has been a recent creation, as baronet
of Great Britain, in 1855, in the person of Kinloch
of that ilk.
At what period the Gilmerton branch struck off
from :he present stock is unknown, but the first
upon record is Francis Kinloch of Gilmerton, who
died in 1685, and was succeeded by his only son,
Alexander Kinloch, who was created a baronet of
Nova Scotia on the 16th September, 1686. He
married Magdalene McMath, and had a numerous
family. He had been Lord Provost of the city in
1677, His wife, who died in 1674, was buried in
the Greyfriars, and the epitaph on her tomb is
recorded by Monteith.
On his death, in 1696, he was succeeded by his
eldest son, Sir Alexander Kinloch of Gilmerton,
who married Mary, daughter of the famous General
David, Lord Newark, who, after the battle of
Naseby, drew off a whole division of Scottish
cavalry, and, by a rapid march, surprised and
defeated the great Montrose at Philiphaugh, and,
in turn, was defeated by Cromwell at Dunbar.
His son, Sir Francis, the third baronet, married
Mary, daughter and heiress of Sir James Rocheid
3f Inverleith, Bart., by whom he had three sons
md ‘three daughters. One of the former, Akxmder,
as already related in its place, took the surname
and arms of his maternal grandfather on
. ... of Condie, Advocate to Queen Mary in 1561, and who continued as such till 1571. He had three daughters. ...

Vol. 6  p. 343 (Rel. 0.45)

348 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge.
musical farce, entitled HaZZow 3a+, which is not
included in tne ‘‘ Biographia Dramatica.” Burns
wrote a prologue for him, attracted to him by his
having been a friend of his own predecessor,
Robert Fergusson.
With the old house whose history we have been
recording all the eminent literary men of Edinburgh
whose names have been of note between
1769 and 1859 have been intimately associated, and
none more than he who was the monarch of them
all-Sir Walter Scott A lover of the drama from
his earliest years, as soon as he had a home of his
own the chief objects of his lavish hospitality were
the leading actors, and among the first of his
theatrical friends was the famous tragedian Charles
Young ; and soon after he was on intimate terms
with Mrs. Siddons and Mr. John Kemble, When
the twenty-one years of the patent expired in 1809,
it was transferred to certain assignees, two of whom
were Mr. Walter Scott, and Henry Nackenzie
author of “The Man of Feeling;” and it was
at the suggestion of the former that Mr. Henry
Siddons, only son of the great tragedienne, applied
for the patent, which was readily granted to him
and at the same time an arrangement was entered
into for the possession of the house.
Now, indeed, commenced the first part of the
most brilliant history of the Edinburgh Theatre
Royal, the second being unquestionably that of the
management of Mr. R. H. Wyndham.
CHAPTER XLIV.
EAST SIDE OF NORTH BRIDGE (coontinwed).
Old Theatre Royal-Management of Mr. Henry Siddons-Mr. Murray-Miss ONeill-Production of Rob Ray-Visit of George IV. to thc
Theatre-Edinbureh Theatrical Fund-Scott and his Novels-Retirement of Mr. Murray-The Management of Mr. and MIX. Wyndham -
-The Closing Night of the Theatre.
MR. SIDDONS’ powers as an actor were very
respectable ; moreover, he was a scholar, a man of
considerable literary ability, and a well-bred gentleman;
and though last, not least, he possessed a
patrimony which he was not afraid to risk in the
new speculation. He hoped that his mother and
his uncle John would aid him by their powerful
influence, and to have them acting together on these
boards would be a great event in the history of the
theatre. Mr. Siddons agreed to be content with
half-the profits of the house and a free benefit;
Kernble asked the same terms, and added that he
would be glad to come North and play for some
time. “It was indeed a brilliant time for the
house when it had Mr. H. Siddons for Archer,
Belcour, and Charles Surface ; Mr. Terry for Sir
Peter Teazle, Sir Anthony Absolute, and Lord
Ogleby; Mr. Mason for stern guardians and snappish
old men in general; William Murray for
almost anything requiring cleverness and good
sense; Mr. Berry for low comedy; Mrs. Henry
Siddons equally for Belvidera and Lady Teazle;
Mrs. Nicol for Mrs. Malaprop, and an endless
variety of inexorable old aunts and duennas ; and
Mrs. William Peirson for Audrey, Priscilla Tomboy,
and William in Rosina ; when Mrs. Joanna Baillie
had a play brought out on our stage, prologued by
Henry Mackenzie and epilogued by Scott, and
whenever the scenery and decorations were in tlie
hands of artists of such reputation as Mr. Nasmyth
and Mr. J. F. Williams. Mrs. Siddons came
in March, 18 I 0, and performed a round of her great
parts-still appearing in the eyes of our fathers
the female Milton of the stage, as she had done
twenty-six years before in the eyes of their fathers.
Mr. John Kemble,” continues this account, written
in 1859, ‘‘ stalked on in July, the first time he had
graced the boards for ten years. . But the glories
of the season were not yet exhausted. The handsome
Irish Johnstone, with his inimitable Major
O’Flaherty and Looney McTwolter ; Emery, with
his face like a great copper kettle, in such English
rustic parts as Tyke and John Lump ; Mrs. Jordan
with her romping vivacity and good-nature in the
Country Girl and other such parts, were among
the rich treats presented to the Edinburgh public
in 1810.”
In 1815 Mr. Henry Siddons, after conducting
the theatre in the same spirited and generous
manner,’ died prematurely of hard work and
anxiety, deeply regretted by the Edinburgh people
of every class, and his mot!ier, who had been
living in retirement, and was then in her sixtysecond
year, appeared for a few nights for the
benefit of his family, whom he left somewhat impoverished.
His widow carried on the house in conjunction
with her brother, the well-known WilIiam Murray,
as stage-manager, and it continued still to possess
an excellent company. The beautiful young Irish ... the well-known WilIiam Murray, as stage-manager, and it continued still to possess an excellent company. The ...

Vol. 2  p. 348 (Rel. 0.44)

170 OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [Leith.
The ballast of the war ships ((was cannon-shot of
iron of which we found in the town to the nombre
of iii score thousand” according to the English
account, which is remarkable, as the latter used
stone bullets then, which were also used in the
Armada more than forty years afterwards. The work
from which we quote bears that it was “ Imprynted
at London, in Pawls Churchyarde, by Reynolde
Wolfe, at the signe of ye Brazen Serpent, anno
1554.” During this expedition Edward Clinton,
Earl of Lincoln, whose armour is now preserved
in the Tower of London, was knighted at Leith by
the Earl of Hertford,
Scotland‘s day of vengeance came speedily after,
when the English army were defeated with great
slaughter at Ancrum, on the 17th of February,
1545.
After the battle of Pinkie Leith was pillaged and
burnt again, with greater severity than before, and
thirty-five vessels were carried from the harbour.
In 1551 an Englishman was detected in Leith
selling velvets in small pieces to indwellers there,
thereby breaking the acts and infringing the freedom
of the citizens of Edinburgh, for which he was
arrested and fined. Indeed, the Burgh Records of
this time teem with the prosecution of persons
breaking the burgh laws by dealings with the “ unfreemen”
of the seaport ; and so persistently did
the magistrates of Edinburgh act as despots in their
attempts to depress, annoy, and restrain the inhabitants,
that, in the opinion of a local historian,
there was only “one measure wanting to coniplete
the destruction of the unhappy Leiihers, and
that was an act of the Town Council to cut their
throats !”
In 1554 the Easter Beaconof Leith is referred to
in the Burgh Accounts, and also payments made
about the same time to Alexander, a quarrier at
Granton, for stones and for Gilmerton lime, for
repairs upon the harbour of Leith. These works
were continued until October, 1555, and great
stones are mentioned as having been brought from
the Burghmuir.
The Queen Regent, Mary of Lorraine, granted
the inhabitants of Leith a contract to erect the town
into a Burgh of Barony, to continue valid till she
could erect it into a Royal Burgh ; and as a preparatory
measure she purchased overtly and for
their use, with money which they themselves furnished,
the superiority of the town from Logan of
Restalrig ; but as she ,failed amid the turmoil of the
time to fulfil her engagements, the people of Leith
alleged that she had been bribed by those of Edinburgh
with zo,ooo merks to break them.
CHAPTER XVIII.
LEITH-HISTORICAL SURVEY (rantinaed).
The Great Siege--Arrival of the French-The Fortifications-Re-capture of Inchkeith-The Town Invested-Arrival of the English Fleet and
Army-SkirmishesOpning of the Batteries-Failure of the Great Assault-Queen Regent’s Death--Treaty of Peace-Relics of the Siege.
FROM 1548 to 1560 Leith, by becoming the fortified
seat of the Court and headquarters of the Queen
Regent’s army and of her French auxi!iaries, figured
prominently as the centre of those stirring events
that occurred during the bitter civil war which
ensued between Mary of Lorraine and the Lords
of the Congregation. Its port received the shipping
and munitions of war which were designed for
her service ; its fortifications “ enclosed alternately
a garrison and an army, whose accoutrements’ had
no opportunity of becoming rusted, and its gates
poured forth detachments and sallying parties who
fought many a fierce skirmish with portions of the
Protestant forces on the plain between Leith and
Edinburgh.”
The bloody defeat at Pinkie, the ravage of the
capital and adjacent country, instead of reconciling
the Scots to a matrimonial alliance with England,
caused them to make an offer of their young Queen
to the Dauphin of France, an offer which his father
at once accepted, and he resolved to leave no
means untried to enforce the authority of the
dowager of James V., who was appointed Regent
during the minority of her daughter. The flame
of the Reformation, long stifled in Scotland, had
now burst forth and spread over all the country;
and the Catholic party would have been only a
minority but for the influence of the Queen Regent
and the presence of her French auxiliaries, who
amved in Leith Roads in June, 1548, in twentytwo
galleys and sixty other ships, according to
Calderwood’s History.
Sir Nicholas de Villegaignon, knight of Rhodes,
was admiral of the fleet, which, as soon as it left
Brest, displayed, in place of French colours, the
Red Lion of Scotland, as France and.England were ... upon the harbour of Leith. These works were continued until October, 1555, and great stones are ...

Vol. 5  p. 170 (Rel. 0.44)

The Tolhwth] THE SIGNET ANI) ADVOCATES’ LIBRARIES. 123
THE genius of Scott has shed a strange halo around
the memory of the grim and massive Tolbooth
prison, so much so that the creations of his imagination,
such as Jeanie and Effie Deans, take the
place of real persons of flesh’ and blood, and suchtraders.
They have been described as being “a
dramdrinking, news-mongering, facetious set of
citizens, who met every morn about seven o’clock,
and after proceeding to the post-office to ascertain
the news (when the mail arrived), generally adjourned
to a public-house and refreshed themselves
with a libation of brandy.” Unfounded articles of
intelligence that were spread abroad in those days
were usually named “ Lawnmarket Gazettes,” in
allusion to their roguish or waggish originators.
At all periods the Lawnmarket was a residence
for nien of note, and the frequent residence of
English and other foreign ambassadors; and so
long as Edinburgh continued to be the seat of the
Parliament, its vicinity to the House made it a
favourite and convenient resort for the members
of the Estates.
On the ground between Robert Gourlay’s house
and Beith’s Wynd we now find some of those portions
of the new city which have been engrafted on
the old. In Melbourne Place, at the north end of
George IV. Bridge, are situated many important
offices, such as, amongst others, those of the Royal
Medical Society, and the Chamber of Commerce
and Manufactures, built in an undefined style of
architecture, new to Edinburgh. Opposite, with
its back to the bridge, where a part of the line of
Liberton’s Wynd exists, is built the County Hall,
presenting fronts to the Lawnmarket and to St.
Giles’s. The last of these possesses no common
beauty, as it has a very lofty portico of finely-flutcd
columns, overshadowing a flight of steps leading to
the main entrance, which is modelled after the
choragic monument of Thrasyllus, while the ground
plan and style of ornament is an imitation of the
Temple of Erechtheius at Athens. It was erected
in 1817, and contains several spacious and lofty
court-rooms, with apartments for the Sheriff and
other functionaries employed in the business of the
county. The hall contains a fine statue of Lord
Chief Baron Dundas, by Chantrey.
is the power of genius, that with the name of the
Heart of Midlothian we couple the fierce fury of
the Porteous mob. “Antique in form, gloomy and
haggard in aspect, its black stanchioned windows,
opening through its dingy walls like the apertures
~
Adjoining it and stretching eastward is the library
of the Writers to the Signet. It is of Grecian architecture,
and possesses two long pillared halls of
beautiful proportions, the upper having Corinthian
columns, and a dome wherein are painted the
Muses. It is 132 feet long by about 40 broad,
and was used by George IV. as a drawing-room,
on the day of the royal banquet in the Parliament ,
House. Formed by funds drawn solely from contributions
by Writers to H.M. Signet, it is under
a body of curators. The library contains more
than 60,000 volumes, and is remarkably rich in
British and Irish history.
Southward of it and lying psxallel with it, nearer
the Cowgate, is the Advocates’ Library, two long
halls, with oriel windows on the north side. This
library, one of the five in the United Kingdom entitled
to a copy of every work printed in it, was
founded by Sir George Mackenzie, Dean of Faculty
in 168z, and contains some zoo,ooo volumes,
forming the most valuable cpllection of the kind
in Scotland. The volumes of Scottish poetry alone
exceed 400. Among some thousand MSS. are those
of Wodrow, Sir James Balfour, Sir Robert Sibbald,
and others. In one of the lower compartments
may be seen Greenshield’s statue of Sir Walter
Scott, and the original volume of Waverley; two
volumes of original letters written by Mary Queen
of Scots and Charles I.; the Confession of Faith
signed by James VI. and the Scottish nobles in
1589-90; a valuable cabinet from the old Scottish
mint in the Cowgate; the pennon borne by
Sir William Keith at Flodden; and many other
objects of the deepest interest. The office of
librarian has been held by many distinguished
men of letters; among them were Thomas Ruddiman,
in 1702; David Hume, his successor, in,
1752 ; Adani Ferguson ; and David Irving, LL.D.
A somewhat minor edifice in the vicinity forms
the library of the Solicitors before the Supreme
Court ... and other foreign ambassadors; and so long as Edinburgh continued to be the seat of the Parliament, its vicinity ...

Vol. 1  p. 123 (Rel. 0.43)

I02 OLD AYD NEW EDINBURGH. [The Lawnmarket.
Duke of York and Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke made
some noise in London during the time of the
Regency. The house below those occupied by
Hume and by Boswell was the property and residence
of Andrew Macdowal of Logan, author of the
“ Institutional Law of Scotland,” afterwards
elevated to the bench, in 1755, as Lord Bankton.
In another court named Paterson’s, opening on
the Lawnmarket, Margaret Countess Dowager of
Glasgow was resident in 1761, and for some years
before it Her husband, the second ead, died in
1740.
One of the handsomest old houses still existing in
the Lawnmarket is the tall and narrow tenement of
polished ashlar adjoining Tames’s Court. It is of
a marked character, and highly adorned. Of old
it belonged to Sir Robert Bannatyne, but in 1631
was acquired by Thomas Gladstone, a merchant
burgess, and on the western gable are the initials
of himself and wife. In 1634, when the city was
divided for the formation of sixteen companies, in
obedience to an injunction of Charles I., the
second division was ordered to terminate at
‘‘ Thomas Gladstone’s Land,” on the north side of
the street.
In 1771 a dangerous fire occurred in the Lawnmarket,
near the head of the old Bank Close. It
was fidt‘discovered by the flames bursting through
the roof of a tall tenement known as Buchanan’s.
It baffled the efforts of three fire-engines and
a number of workmen, and some soldiers of the
22nd regiment. It lasted a whole night, and
created the greatest consternation and some loss
of life. “The new church and weigh-house were
opened during the fire,” says the Scots Magazine
of 1771, “for the reception of the goods and
furniture belonging to the sufferers and the inhabitants
of the adjacent buildings, which were kept
under guard.” Damage to the extent of several
thousand pounds was done, and among those who
suffered appear the names of General Lockhart of
Carnwath ; Islay Campbell, advocate ; John Bell,
W.S. ; and Hume d .Ninewells; thus giving a
sample.of those who still abode in the Lawnmarket.
CHAPTER XI.
, THE LAWNMARKET (continued).
Lady Stair‘s Close-Gay or Pittendrum-e‘Aunt Margarct’s Mmor”--The Marshal h l and Countess of Stair-Mm Femer-Sir Richard
Stcele-Martha Countess of Kincardine-Burns’s Room in Baxter‘s Close-The Bridges’ Shop in Bank Street-Bailie MacMonm’s
PRIOR to the opening of Bank Street, Lady Stair’s
Close, the first below Gladstone’s Land, was the
chief thoroughfare for foot passengers, taking advantage
of the half-formed Earthen Mound to reach
the New Town. It takes its name from Elizabeth
Countess Dowager of Stair, who was long looked
up to as a leader of fashion in Edinburgh, admission
to her select circle being one of the highest
objects of ambition among the lesser gentry of her
day, when the distinctions of rank and family were
guarded with an angry jealousy of which we have
but little conception now. Lady Stair‘s Close is
narrow and dark, for the houses are of great height ;
the house she occupied still remains on the west
side thereof, and was the scene of some romantic
events and traditions, of which Scott made able
use. in his “Aunt Margaret‘s Mirror,” ere it became
the abode of the widow of the Marshal Earl of
Stair, who, when a little boy, had the misfortune to
kill his elder brother, the Master, by the accidental
discharge of a pistol; after which, it is said, that
his mother could never abide him, and sent him
.
in his extreme youth to serve in Flanders as a
volunteer in the Cameronian Regiment,.under the
Earl of Angus. The house occupied by Lady Stair
has oyer its door the pious legend-
“ Feare the Lord and depart from cuiZZ,”
with the date 1622, and the initials of its founder
and of his wifeSir Wiiam Gray of Pittendrum,
and Egidia Smith, daughter of Sir John Smith, of
Grothall, near Craigleith, Provost of Edinburgh in
1643. Sir William was a man of great influence in
the time of Charles I. ; and though the ancient title
of Lord Gray reverted to his family, he devoted
himself to commerce, and became one of the
wealthiest Scottish merchants of that age. But
troubles came upon him; he was fined IOO,OOO
merks for corresponding with Montrose, and was
imprisoned, first in the Castle and then in the
Tolbooth till the mitigated penalty of 35,000 merks
was paid. Other exorbitant exactions followed, and
these hastened his death, which took place in
1648. Three years before that event, his daughter ... abode in the Lawnmarket. CHAPTER XI. , THE LAWNMARKET ( continued ). Lady Stair‘s Close-Gay or ...

Vol. 1  p. 102 (Rel. 0.43)

322 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. lcolinton.
the Belitice Puetaruni Scuiurum. He was a convert
to the Protestant religion, and the chief work of
his pen is his learned book on feudal law. It has
been well said that lie U kept himself apart from the
political intrigues of those distracting times, devoting
himself to his professional duties, and in his
hours of relaxation cultivating a taste for classical
literature.”
He was present at the entry of King James into
London, and at his coronation as King of England,
an event which he commemorated in a poem in
Latin hexameters. In 1604 he was one of the
commissioners appointed by the king to confer
with others on the part of England, concerning
a probable union between the two countries, a
favourite project with James, but somewhat Utopian
when broached at a time when men were living
who had fought on the field of Pinkie.
He wrote a treatise on the independent
sovereignty .of Scotland, which was published in
1675, long after his death, which occurred at Edinburgh
on the 26th of February, 1Go8. He married
Helen, daughter of Heriot of Trabrown, in East
Lothian, by whom he had seven children. His
eldest son, Sir Lewis Craig, born in 1569, became
a senator, as Lord Wrightislands
On the death of his lineal descendant in 1823,
Robert Craig of Riccarton (of whom mention was
made in our chapter on Princes Street in the
second volume of this work), James Gibson, W.S.
(afterwards Sir James Gibson-Craig of Riccarton
and Ingliston), assumed the name and arms of
Craig in virtue of a deed of entail made in 1818.
He was a descendant of the Gibsons of Durie, in
Fife.
His eldest son was the late well-known Sir
William Gibson-Craig, who was born and August,
1797, and, after receiving his education in Edinburgh,
was called as, an advocate to the Scottish
Bar in 1820. He was M.P. for Midlothian from
1837 to 1841, when he was returned for the city of
Edinburgh, which he continued to represent till
1852. He was a Lord of the Treasury from 1846
to 1852, and was appointed one of the Board
of Supervision for the Poor in Scotland. In 1854
he was appointed Lord Clerk Register of Her
Majesty’s Rolls and Registers in Scotland in 1862,
and Keeper of the Signet. He was a member of
the Privy Council in 1863, and died in 1878.
Riccarton House, a handsome modern villa of
considerable size, has now replaced the old
mansion of other times.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (cmtinzted).
Colinton-Ancient Name and Church-Redhall-The Family of Foulis-Dreghorn-The Pentlands-View from Torphin-Corniston-Slateford
-Graysmill-Liherton-The Mill at Nether Libertan-Liberton Tower-The Church-The Balm Well of St. Kathrrine-Grace Mount-
The Wauchopes of Niddrie-Niddrie House-St. Katherine’s-The Kaimes-Mr. Clement Little-Lady Little of Liberton.
THE picturesque little parish village of Colinton,
about a mile and a quarter from Kingsknowe
Station, on the Caledonian Railway, is romantically
situated in a deep and wooded dell, through which
the Water of Leith winds on its way to the Firth
of Forth, and around it are many beautiful walks
and bits of sweet sylvan scenery. The lands here
are in the highest state of cultivation, enclosed by
ancient hedgerows tufted with green coppice, and
even on the acclivities of the Pentland range, at
the height of 700 feet above the sea, have been
rendered most profitably arable.
In the wooded vale the Water of Leith turns
the wheels of innumerable quaint old water-mills,
and through the lesser dells, the Murray, the Braid,
and the Burdiehouse Burns, enrich the parish with
their streams.
Of old the parish was called Hailes, from the
plural, it is said, of a Celtic word, which signifies a
mound or hillock. A gentleman’s residence near
the site of the old church still retains the name,
which is also bestowed upon a well-known quarry
and two other places in the parish. The new
Statistical Account states that the name of Hailes
was that of the principal family in the parish, which
was so called in compliment to them’; but this
seems barely probable.
The little church-which dates from only 1771-
and its surrounding churchyard, are finely situated
on a sloping eminence at the bottom of a dell,
round which the river winds slowly by.
The ancient church of Hailes, or Colinton, was
granted to Dunfermline Abbey by Ethelred, son of
Malcolm Canmore and of St. Margaret, a gift confirmed
by a royal charter of David I., and by a Bull
of Pope Gregory in 1234, according to the abovequoted
authority ; but the parish figures so little in
history that we hear nothing of it again till 1650, ... he was returned for the city of Edinburgh, which he continued to represent till 1852. He was a Lord of the ...

Vol. 6  p. 322 (Rel. 0.43)

Waniston.] LORD WARRISTON. 99
family, the Laird of Dunipace ; but, owing to some
alleged ill-treatment, she grew estranged from him,
and eventually her heart became filled with a
deadly hatred.
An old and attached nurse began to whisper of
a means of revenge and relief from her married
thraldom, and thus she was induced to tamper
with a young man named Robert Weir, a servant
or vassal of her father at Dunipace, to become her
instrument.
At an early hour in the morning of the 2nd of
July, Weir came to the place of Warriston, and
being admitted by the lady to the chamber of her
husband, beat him to death with his clenched fists.
He then fled, while the lady and her nurse remained
at home. Both were immediately seized,
subjected to a summary trial of some kind before
the magistrates, and sentenced to death ; the lady
to have “ her heade struck frae her bodie ” at the
Canongate Cross.
In the brief interval between sentence and execution,
this unfortunate young girl, who was only
twenty-one, was brought, by the impressive discourse
of a good and amiable clergyman, from a
state of callous indifference to a keen sense of
her crime, and also of religious resignation. Her
case was reported in a small pamphlet of the day,
entitled, “Memorial of the Conversion of Jean
Livingston (Lady Waniston), with an account of
her carriage at her execution ”-a dark chapter of
Edinburgh social history, reprinted by Charles
Kirkpatrick Sharpe. “She stated, that on Weir
assaulting her husband, she went to the hall, and
waited till the deed was done. She thought she
still heard the pitiful cries uttered by her husband
while struggling with his murderer.” She tried to
. weep, but not a tear could she shed, and could
only regard her approaching death as a just expiation
of her crime.
Deeply mortified by the latter and its consequences,
her relations used every effort to secure
as much privacy as was possible for the execution;
hence it was arranged that while her nurse
was being burned on the Castle Hill at four o’clock
in the morning, thus attracting the attention of
all who might be out of bed at that time, Lady
Waniston should be taken to the Girth Cross, at
the east end of the town, and there executed by
the Maiden.
“The whole way as she went to the place,”
says the pamphlet referred to, “ she behaved herself
so cheerfully as if she was going to her
wedding, and not to her death. When she came
to the scaffold, and was carried up upon it, she
looked up to the Maiden with two longsome looks,
for she had never seen it before.
of her, to which all that saw her will bear record,
that her only countenance moved [sic, meaning
that its expression alone was touching], although
she had not spoken a word; for there appeared
such majesty in her countenance and visage, and
such a heavenly courage in gesture, that many
said, ‘That woman is gifted with a higher spirit
than any man or woman’s! ’”
She read an address to the spectators at the four
corners of the scaffold, and continued to utter
expressions of devotion till the swift descent of
the axe decapitated her. Balfour, in his “Annals,”
gives the year 1599 as the date of this tragedy.
Four years after Weir was taken, and on the
26th January, 1606, was broken on the wheel, a
punishment scarcely ever before inflicted in Scotland.
In the year 1619 Thomas Kincaid of Wamston
was returned heir to his father Patrick Kincaid of
Warriston, in a tenement in Edinburgh. This was
probably the property that was advertised in the
Couranf of 1761, as about to be sold, “that
great stone tenement of land lying at the head of
the old Bank Close, commonly called Warriston’s
Land, south side of the Lawn Market, consisting
of three bedchambers, a dining-room, kitchen, and
garret.” There is no mention of a drawing-room,
such apartments being scarcely known in the Edinburgh
of those days.
In 1663 another proprietor of Warriston came
to a tragic end, and to him we have already referred
in our account of Waniston’s Close.
This was Sir Archibald Johnston, who was known
as Lord Warriston in his legal capacity. He wag
an advocate of 1633. In 1641 he was a Lord of
Session. He was made Lord Clerk Register by
Cromwell, who also created him a peer,under the title
of Lord Wamston, and as such he sat for a time
in the Upper House in Parliament. After the
Restoration he was forfeited, and fled, but was
brought to Edinburgh and executed at the Marke
Cross, as we have recorded in Chapter XXV. ct.
Volume I.
Wodrow, in his “History of the Church of
Scotland,” states that Wamston’s memoirs, in his
handwriting, in the form of a diary, are still extant ;
if so, they have never seen the light. His character,
admirably drawn in terse language by his nephew,
Bishop Burnet, is thus given in the U History of his
Own Times,” Vol. 1.:-
“ Waniston was my own uncle. He was a man of
great application ; could seldom sleep above three
hours in the twenty-four. He studied the law
carefully, and had a great quickness of thought,
This I may say ,
.
* ... the spectators at the four corners of the scaffold, and continued to utter expressions of devotion till the ...

Vol. 5  p. 99 (Rel. 0.42)

198 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Northumberland Street.
A noted antiquary, he was Correspondant du
Comitk Imp2riaZ des Travaux Historipes, et aes
SaWs Savants. de France, &c. He was well
known in Edinburgh for his somewhat coarse wit,
and as a collector of rare books, whose library in
Great King Street was reported to be the most
valuable private one in the city, where he was
called-but more especially among legal men-
“Alphabet Turnbull,” from the number of his
initials. He removed to London about 1853, and
became seriously embroiled with the authorities
concerning certain historical documents in the
State Paper Office, when he had his chambers
in 3 Stone Buildings, Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
He died at London on the 22nd of April, 1863,
in his fifty-second year ; and a story went abroad
that a box of MS. papers was mysteriously buried
with him.
CHAPTER XXVII.
NORTHERN NEW TOWN (cmclttded).
Admiral Fairfax-Bishop Terrot-Brigadier Hope-Sir T. M. Brisbane--Lord Meadowbank-Ewbank the R.S.A-Death of Professor Wilson-
Moray Place and its Distrk-Lord President Hope-The Last Abode of Jeffrey-Baron Hume and Lord Monuieff-Forres Street-
Thomas Chalmers. D.D.-St. Colme Street-CaDtain Basil Hall-Ainslie Place-Dugald Stewart-Dean Ramsay-Great Stoart Street-
Professor Aytoun-Miss Graham of Duntroon-Lord Jervkwoode
IN the narrow and somewhat sombre thoroughfare
named Northumberlanc! Street have dwelt some
people who were of note in their time.
In 1810 Lady Emily Dundas, and Admiral Sir
William George Fairfax, resided in Nos. 46 and
53 respectively. The admiral had distinguished
himself at the battle of Camperdown as flag-captain
of the Vmemble, under Admiral Duncan; and in
consideration of his acknowledged bravery and
merit on that occasion-being sent home with the
admiral’s despatches-he was made knight-banneret,
with an augmentation to his coataf-arms in
chief, a representation of 1I.M.S. Venerable en.
gaging the Dutch admiral’s ship Yryheid; and to
do justice to the memory of ‘‘ departed worth,” at
his death his son was made a baronet of Great
Britain in 1836. He had a daughter named Mary,
who became the wife of Samuel Greig, captain and
commissioner in the imperial Russian navy.
No. 19 in the same street was for some years the
residence of the Right Rev. Charles Hughes
Terrot, D.D., elected in 1857 Primus of the Scottish
Episcopal Church, and whose quaint little
figure, with shovel-hat and knee-breeches, was long
familiar in the streets of Edinburgh. He wss born
at Cuddalore in the East Indies in 1790. For
some reasons, though he had not distinguished
himself in the Cambridge Tripos list of University
honours, his own College (Trinity College) paid
him the highest compliment in their power, by
electing him a Fellow on the first occasion aftex
he had taken his degree of B.A. in mathematical
honours, and subsequently proceeded to M.A.
and D.D. He did not remain long at college,
as he soon married and went to Scotland, where
he continued all his life attached to the Scottish
Episcopal Church, as successively incumbent of
Haddington, of St. Peter’s, and finally St. Paul’s,
York Place, Edinburgh. In 1841 he was made
bishop of Edinburgh, on the death of Bishop
Walker. He was author of several works on
theology, During the latter years of his life,
from extreme age and infirmity, he had been
entirely laid aside from his pastoral and episcopal
labours ; but during the period of his health and
vigour few men were more esteemed in his pastoral
relations as their minister, or by his brethren of
the Episcopal Church for his acuteness and clever
judgment in their discussions in church affairs.
The leading features of Dr. Terrot’s intellectual
character were accuracy and precision rather than
very extensive learning or great research. It
was very striking sometimes after a subject had
been discussed in a desultory and commonplace
manner, to hear him coming down ‘upon the ,
question with a clear and cutting remark which
put the whole matter in a new and distinct point
of view.
He was long a Fellow and Vice-President of the
Royal Society of Edinburgh, to which he communicated
some very able and acute papers, especially
on logical and mathematical subjects. So also in
his moral and social relations, he was remarkable for
his manly, fair, and honourable bearing. He had
what might essentially be called a pure and honest
mind. He wasdevotedly attached to his own Church,
and few knew better how to argue in favour of its
polity and forms of service, never varying much in
externals ; but few men were more ready to concede
to others the liberality of judgment which he
. ... college, as he soon married and went to Scotland, where he continued all his life attached to the ...

Vol. 4  p. 198 (Rel. 0.42)

342 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge.
Soon after, Mr. Ross advertised that he found
‘‘ the general voice incline that the boxes and pit
should be an equal price. -4s that is the case, no
more than sixpence will be added to the tickets:
boxes and pit 3s., galleries 2s. and IS. The
manager’s first plan must therefore be in some
degree contracted ; but no pains, care, or expense,
will be spared to open the new theatre on the
14th of November next with as complete a company
as can be got together.”
Arnot, writing of the view of the edifice as seen
from the bridge, truly averred that ‘‘ it produces
the double effect of disgusting spectators by its own
deformity, and obstructing the view of the Register
Office, perhaps the handsomest building in the
nation. ”
Its front was somewhat better, being entirely of
polished ashlar, presenting a gable and moulded
pediment, with three large circular-headed windows,
opening upon a spacious balcony and balustrade,
which crowned the portico. The latter consisted
of six plain Doric pillars with a cornice. This
faced the green slope of Multree’s Hill, on which
the Register House was not built till 1772.
The theatre was opened in December, 1769, at
the total expense of &,ooo, and at the then rates
of admission the house held A140. Its rival in
the Canongate, when the prices were zs 6d., IS. 6d,
and IS., held from A70 to L8o.
The downfall of the bridge was the first difficulty
with which Mr. Ross had to contend, as it cut off
the only tolerable communication with the city j
so there stood the theatre on the lonely slope, no
New Town whatever beside it; only a straggling
house or two at wide intervals ; and the ladies and
.gentlemen obliged to come from the High Street
by the way of Leith Wynd, or by Halkerston’s
Wynd, which, in the slippery nights of winter, had
to be thickly strewn with ashes, for the bearers of
sedan chairs. Moreover, the house was often so
indifferently lighted, that when a box was engaged
by a gentleman he usually sent a pound or so of
additional candles.
Owing to these and other reasons Mr. Ross had
two unsuccessful seasons. U The indifference of
the company which the manager provided,” says
h o t , “gave little inducement to people at the
expense of such disagreeable access to visit his
theatre; but he loudly exclaimed in his own defence
that good performers were so discouraged by
the fall of. the bridge that they would not engage
with him, and his popularity not being equal to his
merit as an actor, but rather proportioned to his
indolence as a manager, he made but an unsuc-
-cessful campaign. The fact is,” adds knot, and
his remark suits the present hour, “Edinburgh does
not give encouragement to the stage proportionable
to the populousness of the city.”
Losing heart, Mr. Ross leased the house for three
years to the celebrated Samuel Foote, patentee of
the Haymarket Theatre, at 500 guineas per annum,
and he was the first great theatrical star that
ever appeared on the Edinburgh stage. Cooperating
with Messrs. Woodward and Weston,
and a good company, he opened the house for the
next season, and, after paying the proprietor his
rent, cleared LI,OOO. He opened it on the 17th
of November, 1770, with his own comedy, entitled,
The Commissasary. ‘‘ The audience was numerous
and splendid, and the perfsrmance highly relished.
The plays are regularly continued every Monday,
Wednesday, and Saturday.””
On the 24th of the same month, before Robert
Dundas of Amiston, Lord President of the Court,
and a distinguished audience, he produced his
comedy of The iKirror, in which the characters of
Whitefield and other zealous ministers are held up
to a ridicule amounting almost to blasphemy, particularly
in the case of the former, who figures under
the name of Dr. Squintum. On the following day
Dr. Walker of the High Church, from the pulpit,
made a keen and bitter attack upon Foote ‘Lfor the
gross profanation of the theatre on the preceding
evening.” The difficulty of managing two theatres
so far apart as one in London and another in Edinburgh,
induced Foote to think of getting rid of his
lease of the latter, prior to which he had a dispute
with ROSS, requiring legal interference, in which he
had the worst of it. Ross’s agent called on Foote
in London, to receive payment of his bill, adding
that he was about to return to Edinburgh.
“How do you mean to travel?” asked Foote,
with a sneer. “I suppose, like most of your countrymen,
you will do it in the most economical
manner ?”
“Yes,” replied the Scot, putting the cash laughingly
into his pocket; ‘‘I shall travel on foot
(Foote).”
And he left the wit looking doubly rueful and
angry.
Foote conveyed the lease to Messrs. West,
Digges, and Bland, who at its expiry obtained a
renewal of it from Ross for five years, at 500
guineas per annum. They made a good hit at
first, and cleared A1,400 the first season, having
opened with the well-known Mrs. Hartley. Digges
had once been in the army, was a man of good
connections, but a spendthrift. He was an admir-
.
scoff Mnx., ‘770. ... the perfsrmance highly relished. The plays are regularly continued every Monday, Wednesday, and ...

Vol. 2  p. 342 (Rel. 0.42)

184 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. rLeith .
but by bringing ordonnance from the Castell to the
shoare, to dins at them so long as they sould be
within shot.’’ (Melrose’s Letter.)
Upon this the constable and his cannoniers, with
a battery of guns, came with all speed down, by the
Bonnington Road most probably, and took up a
position on the high ground near the ancient chapel
of St. Nicholas; but this aid came too late, for
Mynheer de Hautain had driven the unfortunate
Spanish frigate, after great slaughter, completely
outside the harbour, where she grounded on a dangerous
reef, then known as the Mussel Cape, but
latterly as the Black Rocks.
There she was boarded by a party of Leith seamen,
who hoisted a Scottish flag at her topmasthead
; but that afforded her no protection, for the
inexorable Dutchmen boarded her in the night,
burned her to the water’s edge, and sailed away
before dawn.
Two years after this there occurred a case of
“ murder under trust, stouthrief, and piracie,” of
considerable local interest, the last scene of which
was enacted at Leith. In November, 1624, Robert
Brown, mariner in Burntisland, with his son, John
Brown, skipper there, David Dowie, a burgess there,
and Robert’ Duff, of South Queensferry, were
all tried before the Criminal Court for slaying under
trust three young Spanish merchants, and appropriating
to themselves their goods and merchandise,
which these strangers had placed on board John
Brown’s ship to be conveyed from the Spanish port
3f San Juan to Calais three years before. “ Beeing
in the middis of the sea and far fra lande,” runs
the indictment, they threw the three Spaniards
overboard, “ane eftir other in the raging seas,”
after which, in mockery of God, they “maid ane
prayer and sang ane psalm,” and then bore away
for Middelburg in Zealand, and sold the property
acquired-walnuts, chestnuts, and Spanish wines.
For this they were all hanged, their heads struck
from their bodies and set upon pikes of iron in the
town of Leith, the sands of which were the scene
of many an execution for piracy, till the last, which
occurred in 1822, when Peter Heaman and Fransois
Gautiez were hanged at the foot of Constitution
Street, within the floodmark, on the 9th of January,
for murder and piracy upon the high seas.
On the 28th and 30th March, 1625, a dreadful
storm raged along the whole east coast of Scotland,
and the superstitious Calderwood, in his history,
seems to connect it as a phenomenon with the death
of James VI., tidings of which reached Edinburgh
on that day. The water in Leith harbour rose
to a height never known before; the ships were
dashed against each other ‘‘ broken and spoiled,”
and many skippers and mariners who strove to
make them fast in the night were drowned. “It
was taken by all men to be a forerunner of some
great alteration. And, indeed, the day followingto
wit, the last of March-sure report was brought
hither from Court that the King departed this
life the Lord’s day before, the 27th of March”
.
CHAPTER XX.
LEITH-HISTORICAL SURVEY (continued).
Si William Mown’s Suggestinns-Leith Re-fortified-The Covenant Signed-The Plague-The Cromwelli in Leith-A Mutiny-Newspaw
Printed in the Citadel-Tucker‘s Report-English Fleet-A Windmill-English Pirates Hanged-Citadel seized by Brigadier Mackintosh&
Hessian Army Lands-Highland Mutinies-Paul Jones-Prince William Henry. .
CHARLES I. was proclaimed King of Scotland,
England, France, and Ireland, at the Cross of Edinburgh
and on the shore at Leith, where Lord Balmerino
and the Bishop of Glasgow attended with
the heralds and trumpeters.
The events of the great Civil War, and those
which eventually brought that unfortunate king to
the scaffold, lie apart from the annals of Leith, yet
they led to the re-fortifying of it after Jenny Geddes
had given the signal of resistance in St. Giles’s in
July, 1637, and the host of the Covenant began to
gather on the hills above Dunse.
Two years before that time we find Vice-Admiral
Sir William Monson, a distinguished English naval
officer who served with Raleigh in Elizabeth’s reign
in many expeditions under James VI., and who
survived till the time of Charles I., urging in his
“Naval Tracts” that Leith should be made the
capital of Scotland !
‘‘ Instead of Edinburgh,” he wrote, I‘ which is
the supreme city, and now made the head of justice,
whither all men resort as the only spring that waters
the kingdom, I wish his Majesty did fortify, strengthen,
and make impregnable, the town of Leith, and
there to settle the seat of justice, with all the other
privileges Edinburgh enjoys, referring it to the ... of March” . CHAPTER XX. LEITH-HISTORICAL SURVEY ( continued ). Si William Mown’s Suggestinns-Leith ...

Vol. 5  p. 184 (Rel. 0.42)

338 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Inch.
CHAPTER XL.
THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH (continued).
The Inch Honse-The Winrams-Ednonstone and the Edmonstones of that Ilk-WitcheesW @Itnet-The StenhoustMoredun-The Stewarts of
Goodtree-The Ruckstane-Burdiehouse-Its Limekilns and Fossils
A LITTLE way eastward of Nether Liberton stands ~ to Sir Alexander Gilmour of Craigmillar, according
the quaint old Inch House, built in the year 1617, to the Valuation Roll for that year.
during the reign of James VI., upon land which, in
the preceding century, belonged to the monks of
Holyrood-a mansion long the residence of the
Little-Gilmours of Craigmillar, and of old the
patrimony of the Winrams of The Inch and
Liberton, a family, according to the ArchmZogia
.%QfiC@, descended from the Winrams of Wiston, in
Clydesdale.
In 1644 George Winram of Liberton was a
baron of Parliament. In the following year he
accused the Commissioner for Aberdeen, Patrick
Leslie, “ as one unworthy to sit in Parliament, being
a malignant, who drunk Montrose’s health ”-a
statement remitted to a committee of the House.
(Balfour’s “ Annales.”)
In 1649 he was made a Lord of Session, by the
title of Lord Liberton, and was one of the commissioners
sent to the young king in Holland, after
seeing whom, he, with the others, landed at Stonehaven,
and was with the Parliament at Perth in the
August of the same year.
In October he sailed from Leith to Gsit the
king again at Brussels on public business, obtaining
a passage in a States man-of-war, in company
with Thomas Eunningham, Conservator of Scottish
Privileges at Campvere. In November he was
again with the king at Jersey, with letters from the
Committee of Estates, and landed at Leith from
a Dutch war-ship, in February, 1650, charged with
letters from Charles 11. to the Parliament and
General Assembly, prior to the king’s coronation in
Scotland.
He.served in the Regiment of the College of
Justice, and being mortally wounded at the battle of
Dunbar,died eight days after the defeat in that town.
His son, colonel in the Scottish army, was
Lieutenant-Governor of Edinburgh Castle, under
the Duke of Gordon, during the protracted siege
thereof in 1688-9, and the latter was urged by
Dundee to repair to the Highlands, and leave the
defence of the fortress to Winram, who was deemed
a loyal and gallant officer.
After the capitulation, in violation of its terms, he
was made a prisoner in the fortress for some time,
and after that we hear no more of him in history.
In 1726 The Inch and Nether Liberton belonged
In the middle of the eighteenth century the
house was the residence of Patrick Grant, Lord
Elchies, a senator of the College of Justice. Born
in 1690, he was called to the bar in 1711, became
a judge of the Court of Session in 1732, andof the
Court of Justiciary three years subsequently. He
was an able lawyer and upright judge, and collected
various decisions, which were published in two
quarto volumes, and edited by W. M. Morrison,
advocate.
He died at the Inch House on 27th June, 1754,
in the sixty-fourth year of his age, leaving behind
him, as the papers of the time say, the character
of an honest man, a sincere friend, an able lawyer,
universally regretted by all those whose esteem,
whem alive, he would have wished to gain.”
Edmonstone House, which is the seat of Sir John
Don Wauchope, Bart., lies about a mile south of
Niddne, on high and commanding ground overlooking
the hollow where Little France and Kingston
Grange lie, and is an elegant mansion, surrounded
by fine plantations. It was named Edmonstown,
from Edmond, a Saxon follower of
Margaret, the Queen of Malcolm Canmore, said to
be a younger son of Count Egmont of Flanders,
and froni whom the Edmonstones of Duntreath
and Ednum (chief branch of the family, but lately
extinct) and all others of the name are descended.
A charter of the office of coroner for Edinburgh
was given to John of Edmonstone by King David
II.,pro toto tempore vita SUE, dated at Aberdeen in
the thirty-third year of his reign. The same, or
another having the same name, received from the
same king a grant of the thanage of Boyen, in
Banffshire. Sir John de Edmonstone, knight, was
one of three ambassadors sent by Robert 11. to
Charles V. of France in 1374, to solicit his interposition
with the Pope and Sacred College to
procure a favourable decree in the suit prosecuted
at the instance of Margaret Logie, Queen
Consort of Scodand.
He married Isabel, daughter of Robert II.,
relict of James, Earl of Douglas, who fell at Otterbourne
in 1388, and left two sons, one of whom was
Knight of Culloden and first of the House of
Duntreath. ... [The Inch. CHAPTER XL. THE ENVIRONS OF EDINBURGH ( continued ). The Inch Honse-The Winrams-Ednonstone and ...

Vol. 6  p. 338 (Rel. 0.42)

50 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Holyrood.
Wllliam, who had property in Broughton, after his
death, none bore even nominally the title of abbot.
A part of the lands fill to the Earl of Roxburghe,
from whom the superiority passed, as narrated
elsewhere.
The “Chronicon Sancta Crucis” was commenced
by the canons of Holyrood, but the portion that
has been preserved comes down only to 1163,
and breaks off at the time of their third abbot.
“Even the Indices Sanctorum and the ‘ two
Calendars of Benefactors and Brethren, begun from
the earliest times, and continued by the care of
numerous monks,’ may-when allowance is made
for the magniloquent style of the recorder-man
nothing more than the united calendar, martyrology,
and ritual book, which is fortunately still
preserved. It is a large folio volume of 132 leaves
of thick vellum, in oak boards covered with stamped
leather, which resembles the binding of the sixteenth
century.” .
The extent of the ancient possessions of this
great abbey may be gathered from the charters
and gifts in the valuable Munim-nta Ecdesicp San&
Cmcis de Edwinesburg and the series of Sent
Rollr. To enumerate the vestments, ornaments,
jewels, relics, and altar vessels of gold and silver
set with precious stones, would far exceed our
limits, but they are to be found at length in the
second volume of the “ Bannatyne Miscellany.”
When the monastery was dissolved at the Reformation
its revenues were great, and according to the
two first historians of Edinburgh its annual income
then was stated as follows :
By Maitland : In wheat. 27 chaldea, 10 bolls.
I) In bear ... 40 .. g ..
I t Inoa ts... 34 .. 15 .. 3tpecks.
501 capons, 24 hens, 24 salmon, 12 loads of salt, and an
unknown number of swine. In money, &926 8s. 6d.
Scots.
By Arnot : In wheat ............ 442 bolls. .. ............. In bear 640 ss .. In oats .............. 560 .. with the same amount in other kind, and.&o sterling.
CHAPTER VIII.
HOLYROOD ABBEY (concluded).
Charter of Willim 1.-Trial of the Scottish Tcmplars-Prrndergast’s Rercnpe--chanas by ROM IL and 111.-The Lord of the Isles-
Coronation of James 11.-Marriages of James I[. and III.-Church, Bc. Burned by the Englih-Ph&d by them-Its Restoration
by James VU.-The Royal Vault-Desaiption of the Chapel Royal-Plundered at the Revolution-Ruined in x*-The West Front-
The Belhavcn Mouument-The Churchyard-Extent of Present Ruin-The Sanctuary-The Abbey Bells.
.KING WILLIAM THE LION, in a charter under his
:great seal, granted between the years 1171 and
1r77, ddressed to “all the good men of his whole
kingdom, French, English, Scots, and Galwegians,”
confirmed the monks of Holyrood in all that had
been given them by his grandfather, King David,
together with many other gifts, including the pasture
of a thousand sheep in Rumanach (Romanno?),
-a document witnessed in the castle, “apud
&densehch. ”
In 1309, when Elias 11. was abbot, there
occurred an interesting event at Holyrood, of
which no notice has yet been taken in any,history
of Scotland-the trial of the Scottish Knights of the
Temple on the usual charges niade against the
erder, aftet the terrible murmurs that rose against it
in Paris, London, and elsewhere, in consequence
-of its alleged secret infidelity, sorcery, and other
vices.
According to the Processus factus contra Tem-
.#arias in Scofict, in Wilkins’ Concilia,” a work of
great price and rarity, it was in the month of
December, 1309-when the south of ScotIand was
averrun by the English, Irish, Welsh, and Norman
troops of Edward II., and John of Bretagne, Earl
of Richmond, was arrogantly called lieutenant of
the kingdom, though Robert Bruce, succeeding to
the power and popularity of Wallace, was in arms
in the north-that Master John de Soleure, otherwise
styled of Solerio, “chaplain to our lord the
Pope,” together with William Lamberton, Bishop of
St. Andrews, met at the Abbey of Holyrood “for
the trial of the Templars, and two brethren of that
order undernamed, the only persons of the order
present in the kingdom of Scotland, by command
of our most holy lord Clement V.” Some curious
light is thrown upon the inner life of the order by
this trial, which it is impossible to give at full
length.
In the first place appeared Brother Walter of
Clifton, who, being sworn on the Gospels, replied
that he had belonged to the military order of the
Temple for ten years, since the last feast of All
Saints, and had been received into it at Temple
Bruer, at Lincoln, in England, by Brother William
de la More (whom Raynouard, in his work on the
order, calls a Scotsman), and that the Scottish
brother knights received the statutes and observ ... and Brethren, begun from the earliest times, and continued by the care of numerous monks,’ may-when ...

Vol. 3  p. 50 (Rel. 0.42)

Leith.] DEATH OF JAMES 111. 201
1488-he embarked in one of Sir Andrew’s ships
then anchored in the Roads of Leith, and landed
from it in Fifeshire. As the Admiral had been lying
there for some time, intending to sail to Flanders,
the Barons, now in arms against the Crown, spread
a report that James had fled, surprised the castle
of Dunbar, furnished themselves with arms and
ammunition out of the royal arsenal, “ and,” says
Abercrombie, “ overran the three Lothians and
the Merse, rifling and plundering all honest men.”
In April, 1488, the king re-crossed the Forth in
the admiral’s ship, and, marching past Stirling,
pitched his standard near Blackness, where his
army mustered thirty thousand, and some say
forty thousand, strong, but was disbanded after an
indecisive skirmish. Fresh intrigues ensued that
belong to general history; two other armies, in
all amounting to nearly seventy thousand men,
took the field James 111. had no alternative but
to take flight in the ships of Wood, then cruising
in the Forth, or to resort to the sword on the 11th
June, 1488.
His army took up a position near the Bum of
Sauchie, while ‘‘ Sir Andrew Wood, attending to
the fortune of war, sailed up the silver winding of
the beautiful river with the FZmw and YelZow
CaraveZ, and continued during the whole of that
cloudless day to cruise between dusky Alloa and
the rich Carse of Stirling, then clothed im all the
glory of summer.” On the right bank of the river
he kept several boats ready to receive the king if
defeat-as it eventually did-fell upon him, and
he often landed, with his brothers John and Robert
and a body of men, to yield any assistance in his
power.
While attempting to reach the ships James was
barbarously slain, and was lying dead in a mill
that still stands by the wayside, when rumour went
that he had reached the YeZZow Caravd Thus
Wood received a message in the name of the Duke
of Rothesay (afterwards James IV.), as to the truth
of this story; but Sir Andrew declared that the
king was not with him, and refilsed to go on shore,
when invited, without hostages for his own safety.
The Lords Fleming and Seaton came on board
in this capacity, and landing at Leith the admiral
was conducted to the presence of the Prince, who
was then a captive and tool in the hands of the
rebels, and only in his sixteenth year. Wood was
arrayed in handsome armour, and so dignified was
he in aspect, and so much did he resemble the
king his master, that the Prince, who had seen little
of the latter, shed tears, and said, timidly-
‘‘ Sir, are you my father? ”
. Then this true old Scottish mariner, heedless of
123
the titled crowd which regarded him with bitter
hostility, and touched to the heart by the question,
also burst into tears, and said-
“ I am not your father, but his faithful servant,
and the enemy of all who have occasioned his
downfall ! ”
“ Where is the king, and who are those you took
on board after the battle?” demanded several of
the rebel lords.
‘‘ As for the king, I know nothing of him. Finding
our efforts to fight for or to save him vain, my
brother and I returned to our ships.” He added,
says Buchanan, “that if the king were alive he
would obey none but him; ,and that if slain, he
would revenge him ! ”
He then went off to the ships, but just in time
to save the hostages, whom his impatient brothers
were about to hang at the yard-arm. The lords
now wanted the mariners of Leith to arm their
ships, and attack Wood; but, to a man, they
declined.
In the early part of 1489 Henry of England, to
make profit out of the still disturbed state of Scotland,
sent five of his largest ships to waste and burn
the sea-coast villages of Fife and the Lothians ; and
the young James IV., in wrath at these proceedings,
requested Sir Andrew Wood to appear before the
Privy Council and take measures to curb the outrages
of the English.
He at once undertook to attack them ; but James,
as they outnumbered him by three, advised him to
equip more vessels.
‘‘ No: he replied,” ‘‘ I shall only take my own
two-the FZower and the Jl‘ellow Carard.”
Accordingly, .with the first fair wind on a day in
February, he dropped down the Firth, and found
the plunder-laden English vessels hovering off
Dunbar, and which Tytler surmises to have been
pirates, as they came in time of truce. Wood at
once engaged them, and after an obstinate conflict,
of which no details are preserved, he brought them
all prizes into Leith. He presented their captains
to the young king, who now further rewarded him on
the 11th March, 1490, with the lands of Balbegnoth,
the superiority of Inchkeith, the lands of
Dron and Newbyrn ; and by a charter under the
Great Seal, 18th May, 1491, he granted to Sir
Andrew Wood “ license to build a castfe at Largo
with gates of iron as a reward for the great services
done and losses sustained by the said Andrew, and
for those services which there was no doubt he
would yet render.” This castle, fragments of which
yet remain, he appears to have built, with some
adjacent houses, by the hands of English pirates
whom he had captured at sea; and the coat ... beautiful river with the FZmw and YelZow CaraveZ, and continued during the whole of that cloudless day to ...

Vol. 6  p. 201 (Rel. 0.42)

OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. LSouth Bridge. 376
In 1837 he succeeded Professor Macvey Napier
as Librarian to the Signet Library ; and when the
new and noble library of the University was opened
he volunteered to arrange it, which he did with
all the ardour of a bibliomaniac. Hewas made
LL.D. of his native university in 1864, and is
believed to have edited and annotated fully 250
rare works on Scottish history and antiquities.
True to its old tradition, No. 49 is still a booksellefs
shop, held by the old firm of Ogle and
Murray.
In No. 98 of the Bridge Street are the Assay
Office and Goldsmith’s Hall, The former is open
on alternate days, when articles of gold and silver
that require to be guaranteed by the stamp of
genuineness, are sent in and assayed. The assay
master scrapes a small quantity of metal off each
article, and submits it to a test in order to ascertain
the quality. The duty charged here on each ounce
of gold plate is 17s. 6d., and on silver plate IS. 6d
One of the earliest incorporated trades of Edinburgh
was that of the hammermen, under which
were included the goldsmiths, who, in 1586, were
formed into a separate company. By the articles
of it, apprentices must serve for a term of seven
years, and masters are obliged to serve a regular
apprenticeship of three years or more to make
them more perfect in their trade. They were,
moreover, once bound to give the deacon of the
craft sufficient proof of their knowledge of metals,
and of their skill in the working thereof. By a
charter of James VI., all persons not of the corporation
are prohibited from exercising the trade of
a goldsmith within the liberties of Edinburgh.
King James VII. incorporated the company by
a charter, with additional powers for the regulation
of its trade. Those were granted, so it runs, “ because
the art and science of goldsmiths is exercised
in the city of Edinburgh, to which our subjects
frequently resort, because it is the seat of our
supreme Parliament, and of the other supreme
courts, and there are few goldsmiths in other
cities.”
In virtue of the powers conferred upon it, the
company, from the date of its formation, tested
and stamped all the plate and jewellery made in
Scotland. The first stamp adopted was the tipletowered
castle, or city arms. “In 1681,” says
Bremner, in his ‘‘ Industries of Scotland,” “a letter
representing the date was stamped on as well as
the castle. The letter A indicates that the article
bearing it was made in the year between the 29th
of September, 1681, and the same day in 1682 ;
the other letters of the alphabet, omitting j and
w, representing the succeeding twenty-three years.
Each piece bore, in addition to the castle and date
letter, the assay-master’s initials. Seven alphabets
of a different type have been exhausted in recording
the dates ; and the letter of the eighth alphabet,
for 1869, is an Egyptian capital M. In 1759 the
standard mark of a thistle was substituted for the
assay-master’s initials, and is still continued. In
1784 a ‘duty-mark’ was added, the form being
the head of the sovereign. The silver mace of.
the city of Edinburgh is dated 1617 ; the High
Church plate, 1643.”
The making of spoons and forks was at one
time an extensive branch of the silversmith trade
in Edinburgh ; but the profits were so small that
it has now passed almost entirely into the hands
of English manufacturers.
The erection of this bridge led to the formation of
Xunter’s Square and Hair Street, much about the
same time and in immediate conjunction with i t
The square and street (where the King’s pnntingoffice
was placed) were both named from Sir James
Hunter Blair, who was Provost of the city when
the bridge was commenced, but whose death at
Harrogate, in 1789, did not permit him to see
the fine1 completion of it.
Number 4 in this small square, the north side
of which is entirely formed by the Tron Church,
contains the old hall of the Merchant Company of
Edinburgh, which was formed in 1681.
But long previous to that year the merchants OF
the city formed themselves into a corporation,
called the guildry, from which, for many ages, the
magistrates were exclusively chosen ; and, by an
Act of Parliament passed in the reign of James
III., each of the incorporated trades in Edinburgh
was empowered to choose one of their number to
vote in the election of those who were to govern
the city, and this guildry was the parent of the
Merchant Company. “It was amidst some of the
most distressing things in our national histovhangings
of the poor ‘hill folk’ in the Grassmarket,
trying of the patriot Argyle for taking
the test-oath with an explanation, and so forththat
this company came into being. Its nativity
was further heralded by sundry other things of
a troublous kind affecting merchandise and its
practitioners.’’
The merchants of Edinburgh, according to Amot,
were erected into a bodp-corporate by royal charter,
dated 19th October, 1681, under the name of The
Company of Merchants of fhe Cig of Edinburgh.
By this charter they were empowered to choose a
Preses, who is called “ The Master,” with twelve
assistants, a treasurer, clerk, and officer. The
company were further empowered to purchase ... for the assay-master’s initials, and is still continued . In 1784 a ‘duty-mark’ was added, the form ...

Vol. 2  p. 377 (Rel. 0.42)

378 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Greyfirs Church.
King‘s Commissioner, the severity of these vile
persecutions was greatly lessened ; but in the northeast
corner of the burying-ground, the portion of it
long accorded as the place for the interment of
criminals, stands that grim memorial of suffering,
tears, and blood, known as the Martyrs’Monumznta
tall, pillared tablet, rising on a pedestal surmounted
by an entablature and pediment, and bearing the
following inscription :-
“ Halt, passenger ! take heed what you do see-
This tomb doth show for what some men did die ;
Here lies interred the dust of those who stood
’Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood ;
Adhering to the covenants and laws,
Establishing the same ; which was the cause
Their lives were sacrificed unto the lust
Of prelatists abjured ; though here their dust
Lies mix’t with murderers, and other crew.
Whom justice justly did to death pursue.
But. as for them no cause was to be found
Worthy of death ; but only they were found
Constant and stedfast, zealous, witnessing
For the prerogatives of Christ, their King ;
Which truths were sealed by famous Guthrie’s head,
And all along to Mr. Renwick’s blood.
They did endure the wrath of enemies :
Reproaches, torments, death, and injuries.
But yet they’re those who from such troubles came,
And now triumph in glory with the Lamb I ”
“From May 27, 1661, that the most noble
Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to the 17th
February, 1688, that Mr. James Rcnwick suffered,
were one way or other murdered and destroyed fo1
the same cause about eighteen thousand, of whom
were executed at Edinburgh about a hundred ol
noblemen aud gentlemen, ministers, and othersnoble
martyrs for Jesus Christ. The most of them
lie here.”
According to the Edinburgh Courant of 1728
this tomb was repaired in that year, and there was
added to it ‘‘ a compartment, on which is cut a
head and a hand on pikes, as emblems of theii
(the martyrs’) sufferings, betwixt which is to be engraved
a motto alluding to both.”
The old church had been without a bell till
1681, when the Town Council ordered one which
had been formerly used in the Tron church ta
be hung in its steeple, or tower, at the west end.
The latter was blown up on the 17th May, 1718,
by a quantity of gunpowder belonging to the city,
which was deposited there and exploded by acci.
dent.
As the expense of its repair was estimated at
A600 sterling, the Town Council resolved to add
instead, a new church at the west end of the old,
and in the same plain, ungainly, and heavy style of
architecture, with an octagonal porch projecting
under the great window, all of which was accord.
ingly done, and the edifice, since denominated the
New Greyfriars, was finished in 1721, at the expense
of A3,045 sterling.
In this process the oIder church was shortened
by a partition wall being erected at the second
pillar from the west, that both buildings should
be of equal length. Many men of eminence
have been incumbents here ; among them, Robert
Rollock, the first Principal of the University of
Edinburgh, and Principal Carstares, the friend of
William of Orange.
In 1733, Robert Wallace, D.D., author of “A
Dissertation on the Numbers of Mankind,” and
many other works, and one of the first projectors
of the Scottish Ministers’ Widows’ Fund, was appointed
one of the ministers of the Greyfriars, in
consequence of a sermon which he preached before
the Synod of Moffat, the tenor of which so pleased
Queen Caroline, when she read it, that she recommended
him to the patronage of the Earl of Islay,
then chief manager of Scottish affairs.
In 1736, however, he forfeited the favour of
Government by being one of the many clergymen
who refused to read from the pulpit the act
relative to the Porteops mob; but on the overthrow
of ,Walpole’s ministry, in 1742, he was
entrusted with the conduct of ecclesiastical affairs,
so far as related to crown presentations in Scotland
-a delicate duty, in which he continued to give
satisfaction to all. In 1744 Dr. Wallace was
commissioned as one of the royal chaplains in
Scotland, and in 1753 he published his ‘‘ Dissertation”’-
a work that is remarkable for the
curious mass of statistical information it contains,
and for its many ingenious speculations on the subject
of population, to one of which the peculiar
theories of the Rev. Mr. Malthus owed their origin.
Among many other philosophical publications,
he brought forth (‘ Various Prospects of Mankind,
Nature, and Providence,” in 1761, and died the
year after, on the 10th of July, leaving a son, who
is not unknown in Scottish literature.
But the most distinguished of the incumbents
was William Robertson, D.D., the eminent
historian, who was appointed to the Greyfriars in
1761, the same year in which, on the death of
Principal Goldie, he was elected Principal of the
University of Edinburgh, and whose father, the
Rev. William Robertson (a cadet of the Struan
family) was minister of the Old Greyfriars in 173 j.
Principal Robertson is so *well known by the
published memoirs of him, and by his many brilliant
literary works, that he requires little more
than mention here. “Scott, who from youth to ... presentations in Scotland -a delicate duty, in which he continued to give satisfaction to all. In 1744 Dr. ...

Vol. 4  p. 378 (Rel. 0.42)

228 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH, [High Street.
’ arms, and took her by boat across the loch that
rippled at the foot of the slope.
In Drummond of Hawthornden’s poems, published
by the Maitland Club, there is an epigram
on Mary King‘s “ pest : ”-
“ Turn, citizens, to God 5 repent, repent,
And pray your bedlam frenzies may relent ;
Think not rebellion a trifling thmg,
This plague doth fight for Mu& and the King.’’
An old gentleman, says Wilson, has often described
to us his visits to Mary King’s Close, along
with his companions, when a schoolboy. The
most courageous of them would approach these
dread abodes of mystery, and at-ter shouting
through the keyhole or broken window-shutter,
they would run off with palpitatiflg hearts; the
popular superstition being, that if these longdeserted
abodes were opened, the deadly pest imprisoned
there would once more burst forth and desolate
the land.
Mr. George Sinclair, Professor of Moral Philosophy
in the University of Glasgow, and afterwards
minister of Eastwood in Renfrewshire, by the publication,
in 1685, of his work, “Satan’s Invisible
World Discovered,” did much to add to the terrors
of Mary King‘s Close, by his account of apparitions
seen therein, and recorded ‘’ by witnesses of
undoubted veracity ”-a work long hawked about
the streets by the itinerant sellers of gingerbread
The last, or northern portion of the close, with its
massive vaulted lower storeys, was an open ruin in
1845 ; the south, or upper, had fallen into ruin
after a fire in 1750, and was in that condition
when a portion of the site was required for the
west side of the Royal Exchange, three years
after.
It would appear from the Professor‘s narrative,
that Mr. Thomas Coltheart, a respectable law
agent, whose legal business had begun to flourish,
took a better style of house in AIary King’s Close.
Their maid-servant was, of course, duly warned by
obliging neighbours that the house was haunted,
and in terror she gave up her situation and fled,
leaving Mr. and Mrs. Coltheart, to face whatever
they might see, alone.
Accordingly, it came to pass that, when the lady
had seated herself by the bedside of her gudeman,
who, being slightly indisposed on the Sunday afternoon,
had lain down to rest, while she read the
Scriptures, chancing to look up, she saw to her
intense dismay a human head, apparently that of
an old man, with a grey floating beard, suspended
in mid-air, at a little distance, and gazing intently
at her with elvish eyes. She swooned at this terrible
sight, and remained insensible till the neighbours
returned from church. Her husband strove
to reason her out of her credulity, and the evening
passed without further trouble ; but they had not
been long in bed when he himself espied the same
phantom head by the fire-light, floating in mid-air,
and eyeing him with ghostly eyes.
He lighted a candle, and betook him to prayer,
but with little effect, for in about an hour the
bodyless phantom was joined by that of a child,
also suspended in mid-air, and this was followed
by an arm, naked from the elbow, which, in defiance
of all Coltheart’s prayers and pious interjections,
seemed bent on shaking hands with
him and his wife !
In the most solemn way the luckless lawyer conjured
these phantoms to entrust him with the story
of any wrongs they wished righted ; but all to no
purpose. The old tenants evidently regarded the
new as intruders, and others came to their aid, for
the naked arm was joined by a spectral dog, which
curled itself up in a chair, and went to sleep ; and
then came a cat, and many other creatures, but
of grotesque and monstrous forms, till the whole
room swarmed with them, so that the honest couple
were compelled to kneel on their bed, there being
no standing room on the floor ; till suddenly, with
a deep and awful groan, as of a strong man dying
in agony, the whole vanished, and Mr. and Mrs.
Coltheart found themselves alone.
In those days of superstition, Mr. Coltheart-if
we are to believe Professor Sinclair-must have
been a man of more than ordinary courage, for he
continued to reside in this terrible house till the
day of his death, without further molestation ; but
when that day came, it would seem not to have
been unaccompanied by the supernatural. At the
moment he expired, a gentleman, whose friend and
law agent he was, while asleep in bed beside his
wife, at Tranent, ten miles distant, was roused by
the nurse, who had been terrified “ by something
like a cloud moving about the room.”
Starting up with the first instinct of a Scot in
those days, he seized his sword to defend himself,
when “ the something ” gradually assumed the form
and face of a man, who looked at him pale and
ghastly, and in whom he recognised his friend
Thomas Coltheart.
‘( Are you dead, and if so, what is your errand?
he demanded, despite his fears, on which the apparition
shook its head twice and melted away. Proceeding
at once to Edinburgh, the ghost-seer went
direct to the house of his friend in Mary King’s
Close, and found the wife of the former in tears
for the recent death of her husband, This ac ... have been a man of more than ordinary courage, for he continued to reside in this terrible house till ...

Vol. 2  p. 228 (Rel. 0.42)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [George Street. I42
ever heard speak on such topics. The shrewdness
and decision of the man can, however, stand
in need of no testimony beyond what his own
conduct has afforded-above all, in the establishment
of his Aagazine (the conception of which,
I am assured, was entirely his own), and the sub.
sequent energy with which he has supported it
through every variety of good and evil fortune.”
Like other highly successful periodicals, BZackwoodls
Magazine has paid the penalty of its greatness,
for many serial publications have been pro
jected upon its plan and scope, without its in
herent originality and vigour.
William Blackwood published the principal works
of Wilson, Lockhart, Hogg, Galt, Moir, and othei
distinguished contributors to the magazine, as we1
as several productions of Sir Walter Scott. Hc
was twice a magistrate of his native city, and ir
that capacity took a prominent part in its affairs
He died on the 16th of September, 1834, in hi:
fifty-eighth year.
“ Four months of suffering, in part intense,” sayr
the Mugazine for October, 1837, “ exhausted bj
slow degrees all his physical energies, but left hi:
temper calm and unruffled, and his intellect entira
and vigorous to the last. He had thus what nc
good man will consider as a slight privilege : thai
of contemplating the approach of death with tha
clearness and full strength of his mind and faculties
and of instructing those around him by the solemr
precefit and memorable example, by what mean:
humanity alone, conscious of its own fnilty, car
sustain that prospect with humble serenity.”
This is evidently from the pen of John Wilson
in whose relations with the magazine this deatk
made no change.
William Blackwood left a widow, seven sons
and two daughters; the former carried on-anc
their grandsons still carry on-the business in tha
old establishment in George Street, which, sincc
Constable passed away, has been the great literarj
centre of Edinburgh.
No. 49, the house of Wilkie of Foulden, i:
now a great music saloon; and No. 75, nog
the County Fire and other public offices, has a pe
culiar interest, as there lived and died the mothei
of Sir Walter Scott-Anne Rutherford, daughter o
Dr. John Rutherford, a woman who, the biographei
of her illustrious son tells us, was possessed o
superior natural talents, with a good taste foi
music and poetry and great conversational powers
In her youth she is said to have been acquainted
with Allan Kamsay, Beattie, Blacklock, and man)
other Scottish men of letters in the last century
and independently of the influence which her own
talents and acquirements may have given her in
training the opening mind of the future novelis4
it is obvious that he must have been much indebted
to her in early life for the select and intellectual
literary society of which her near relations were
the ornaments-for she was the daughter of a
professor and the sister of a professor, both of
the University of Edinburgh.
Her demise, on the 24th of December, 1819, is
simply recorded thus in the obituary :-“ At her
house in George Street, Edinburgh, Mrs. Anne
Rutherford, widow of the late Walter Scott, Writer
to the Signet.”
“ She seemed to take a very affectionate farewell
of me, which was the day before yesterday,” says
Scott, in a letter to his brother, in the 70th regiment,
dated nand December; “and, as she was
much agitated Dr. Keith advised I should not see
her again, unless she seemed to desire it, which she
has not hitherto done. She sleeps constantly, and
will probably be so removed. Our family sends
love to yours.
“ Yours most affectionately,
“ WALTER SCOTT.”
No. 78 was, in 1811, the house of Sir John
Hay of Srnithfield and Hayston, Baronet, banker,
who married Mary, daughter of James, sixteenth
Lord Forbes. He had succeeded to the title in
the preceding year, on the death of his father,
Sir James, and is thus referred to in the scarce
“ Memoirs of a Banking House,” by Sir William
Forbe’s of Pitsligo, Bart. :-
“Three years afterwards we made a further
change in the administration by the admission of
my brother-in-law, Mr. John Hay, as a partner.
In the year 1774, at my request, Sir Rebert Hemes
had agreed that he should go to Spain, and serve
an apprenticeship in his house at Barcelona,
where he continued till spring, 1776, when he
returned to London, and was received by Sir
Robert into his house in the City-from which, by
that time, our separation had taken place-and
where, as well as in the banking house in St.
James’s Street, he acted as a clerk till summer,
1778, when he came to Edinburgh, and entered
our country house also, on the footing of a confidential
clerk, during three years. Having thus
had an ample experience of his abilities and merit
as a man of business, on whom we might repose
the most implicit confidence, a new contract ot
co-partnery was formed, to commence from the 1st
of January, 1782, in which Mr. Hay was assumed
as a partner, and the shares stood as follow: Sir
William Forbes, nineteen, Mr. Hunter Blair, nine ... apprenticeship in his house at Barcelona, where he continued till spring, 1776, when he returned to London, ...

Vol. 3  p. 142 (Rel. 0.41)

Leith.) THE BOURSE. 231
U Throughout these troublesome days, a little episcopal
congregation was kept together in Leith,
their place of worship being the first floor of an
old dull-looking house in Queen‘s Street (dated
1516), the lower floor of which was, in my recollection,
a police office.”
The congregation about the year 1744 is said to
have numbered only a hundred and seventy-two ;
and concerning what are called episcopal chapels
in Leith, confusion has arisen from the circumstance
that one used the Scottish communion
office, while another adopted the liturgy of the
Church of England. The one in Queen Street was
occupied in 1865 as a temperance hall.
According to Robertson’s U Antiquities,” the
earliest of these episcopal chapels was situated in
Chapel Lane (at the foot of Quality Street), and
was demolished several years ago, and an ancient
tablet which stood above the door-lintel was built
into a house near the spot where the chapel stood.
It bears the following inscription :-
T. F. THAY. AR. WELCOY. HEIR. THA’I’.
A. M. G6D. DOIS. LOVE. AND. FEIR. 1590.
In 1788 this building was converted into a
dancing-school, said to be the first that wa? opened
in Leith.
On Sunday, April 27, 1745, divine service was
performed in a fey of the then obscure episcopal
chapels in Edinburgh and Leith, but in the following
week they were closed by order of the
sheriff.
That at Leith, wherein the Rev. Robert Forbes
and Rev. Mr. Law officiated, shared the same fate,
and the nonjuring ministers of their communion
had to perform their duties by stealth, being liable
to fines, imprisonment, and banishment. It was
enacted that after the 1st of September, 1746,
every episcopal pastor in Scotland who failed to
register his letters of orders, to take all the oaths
required by law, and to pray for the House of
Hanover, should for the first offence suffer six
months’ imprisonment ; for the second be transported
to the plantations ; and for the third suffer
penal servitude for life !
Hence, says Mr. Parker Lawson, in his ‘I History
of the Scottish Episcopal Church,” since the Revolution
in 1688, “the sacrament of baptism was
often administered in woods and sequestered places,
and the holy communion with the utmost privacy.
Confirmations were held with closed doors in
private houses, and divine service often performed
in the open air in the northern counties, amid the
maintains or in the recesses of forests. The
chapels were all shut up, and the doors made
fast with iron bars, under the authority of the
sheriffs.”
The Rev. Robert Forbes became Bishop of
Caithness and Orkney in 1762, but still continued
to reside in Leith, making occasional visits to the
north, for the purpose of confirming and baptising,
till the year of his death, 1776; and twelve years
subsequently, the death of Prince Charles Edward
put an end to much of the jealousy with which the
members of the episcopal communion in Scotland
were viewed by the House of Hanover.
“On Sunday, the 25th of May last,” says The
GentZeman’s Magazine for I 7 88, “ the king, queen,
and Prince of Wales were prayed for by name, and
the rest of the royal family, in the usual manner,
in all the nonjuring chapels in this city (Edinburgh)
and Leith. The same manner of testifying the
loyalty of the Scotch Episcopalians will also be
observed in every part of the country, in consequence
of the resolution come to by the bishops
and clergy of that persuasion. Thus, an effectual
end is put to the most distant idea of disaffection
in any part of His Majesty’s dominions to his royal
person and government.”
The old chapel in Queen Street adjoined a
building which, in the days when Maitland wrote,
had its lower storey in the form of an open piazza,
which modem alterations have completely concealed
or obliterated. This was the exchange, or
meeting-place of the Leith merchants and traders
for the transaction of business, and was known as
the Rourse till a very recent period, being adopted
at a time when the old alliance with France was
an institution in the land, and the intimate relations
between that country and Scotland introduced
many phrases, customs, and words which still
linger in the latter.
The name of the Bourse still remains in Leith
under the corrupted title of the Timber Bush,
occasionally called the How( at some distance
north of Queen Street. It occupied more than
the piazzas referred to-a large piece of ground
originally enclosed by a wooden fence, and devoted
to the sale of timber, but having been plobably
reclaimed from the sea, it was subject to inundations
during spring tides. Thus Calderwood records
that on the IGth of September, 1616, “there arose
such a swelling in the sea at Leith, that the like
was not seen for a hundred years, for the water came
in with violence in a place called the Timber H~lc
where the timber lay, and carried away some of the
timber, and rnanie lasts of herrings lying there,
to the sea; brak into sundrie low houses and
cellars, and filled them with water. The people,”
he adds, of course, “tooke this extraordinarie ... Bishop of Caithness and Orkney in 1762, but still continued to reside in Leith, making occasional visits ...

Vol. 6  p. 231 (Rel. 0.41)

GNsmarket.1 THE GAELIC CHAPEL. 235
target, andnogentlemantookthe road without pistols
in his holsters, and was the chief place for carriers
putting up in the days when all the country traffic
was conducted by their carts or waggons. In 1788
fortysix carriers arrived weekly in the Grassmarket,
and this number increased to ninety-six in 1810.
In those days the Lanark coach started fiom
George Cuddie’s stables there, every Friday and
Tuesday at 7 am. ; the Linlithgow and Falkirk
flies at 4 every afternoon, ‘( Sundays excepted ; ”
and the Peebles coach from “ Francis M‘Kay’s,
vintner, White Hart Inn,” thrice weekly, at g in
the morning.
Some bloodshed occurred in the Castle Wynd
in 1577. When Morton’s administration became
so odious as Regent that it was resolved to deprive
him of his power, his natural son, George Douglas
of Parkhead, held the Castle of which he was
governor, and the magistrates resolved to cut off
all supplies from him. At 5 o’clock on the 17th
March their guards discovered two carriages of
provisions for the Castle, which were seized at
the foot of the Wynd. This being seen by Parkhead’s
garrison, a sally was made, and a combat
ensued, in which three citizens were killed and six
wounded, but only one soldier was slain, while sixteen
others pushed the carriages up the steep slope.
The townsmen, greatly incensed by the injury,”
says Moyse, ‘‘ that same night cast trenches beside
Peter Edgafs house for enclosing of the Castle.”
Latterly the closes on the north side of the
Market terminated on the rough uncultured slope
of the Castle Hill; but in the time of Gordon of
Rothiemay a belt of pretty gardens had been there
from the west fiank of the city wall to the Castle
Wynd, where a massive fragment of the wall of
1450 remained till the formation of Johnstone
Terrace. On the west side of the Castle Wynd
is an old house, having a door only three feet
three inches wide, inscribed:
BLESSIT. BE. GOD. FOR. AL. HIS. GIFTIS.
16. 163 7. 10.
The double date probably indicated arenewal of
the edifice.
The first Gaelic chapel in Edinburgh stood in
the steep sloping alley named the Castle Wynd.
Such an edifice had long been required in the
Edinburgh of those days, when such a vast number
of Highlanders resorted thither as chairmen, porters,
water-carriers, city guardsmen, soldiers of the
Castle Company, servants and day-labourers, and
when Irish immigration was completely unknown.
These people in their ignorance of Lowland Scottish
were long deprived of the benefit of religious
instruction, which was a source of regret to themselves
and of evil to society.
Hence proposals were made by Mr. Williarn
Dicksos, a dyer of the city, for building a chapel
wherein the poor Highlanders might receive religious
instruction in their own language; the contributions
of the benevolent flowed rapidly in; the
edifice was begun in 1767 and opened in 1769,
upon .a piece of ground bought by the philanthropic
William Dickson, who disposed of it to the Society
for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge. The
church cost A700, of which LIOO was given by
the Writers to the Signet.
It was soon after enlarged to hold about 1,100
hearers. The minister was elected by the subscribers.
His salary was then only LIOO per
annum, ‘and he was, of course, in communion with
the Church- of Scotland, when such things as the
repentance stool and public censure did not
become thing of the past until 1780. “Since the
chapel was erected,” says Kincaid, “the Highlanders
have been punctual in their attendance on
divine worship, and have discovered the greatest
sincerity in their devotions. Chiefly owing to the
bad crops for some years past in the Highlands,
the last peace, and the great improvements Carrying
on in this city, the number of Highlanders has of late
increased so much that the chapel in its present
situation cannot contain them. Last Martinmas,
above 300 applied for seats who could not be
accommodated, and who cannot be edified in the
English language.”
The first pastor here was the Rev. Joseph
Robertson MacGregor, a native of Perthshire, who
was a licentiate of the Church of England before
he joined that of Scotland., “The last levies of
the Highland regiments,” says Kincaid, ‘‘ were
much indebted to this house, for about a third of
its number have, this last and preceding wars,
risqued (xi.) their lives for their king and country ;
and no other church in Britain, without the aid or
countenance of Government, contains so many
disbanded soldiers.”
Mr. MacGregor was known by his mother‘s
name of Robertson, assumed in consequence of
the proscription of his clan and name ; but, on the
repeal of the infamous statute against it, in 1787,
on the day it expired he attired himself in a fill
suit of the MacGregor tartan, and walked conspicuously
about the city.
The Celtic congregation continued to meet 51
the Castle Wynd till 1815, when its number had
so much increased that a new church was built for
them in another quarter of the city.
The Plainstanes Close, with Jatnieson’s, Beattie’s,
s
* ... conspicuously about the city. The Celtic congregation continued to meet 51 the Castle Wynd till 1815, when its ...

Vol. 4  p. 235 (Rel. 0.41)

Princes Street.] EDINBURGH IN 1783. 119
vincial towns were combined in the case of Edinburgh
She was the titular capital of Scotland, and
as such, was looked up to with pride and veneration
by the nation at large. She was then the
residence of many of the old Scottish nobility, and
the exclusion of the British from the Continent,
during a long, protracted war, made her, either for
business, society, or education, the favourite resort
of strangers. She was the headquarters of the
legal profession at a time when both the Scottish
bench and bar were rendered illustrious by a numbet
of men celebrated far their learning, eloquence, and
wit. She was the head-quarters of the Scottish
Church, whose pulpits and General Assembly were
adorned by divines of great eminence and piety.
Lastly, she was the chief seat of scholarship, and
the chosen home of literature and science north of
the Tweed.”
With the Edinburgh of those days ,and of the
present we have now deal
CHAPTER XVII.
PRINCES STREET.
A Glance at Society-Change of BIanners, &-The Irish Giants-Poole’s Coffee-house-Shop of Constable 8 Co.-Weir’s Muscum, 1794-
The Grand Duke Nichoh-North British Insurance Life Association4ld Tax Office and New Club-Craig of Ricarton-“?he
White Rose of Scotland”‘-St. John’s Chapel-Its Tower and Vaults, &.-The Scott Monument and its MUseum-The Statues of Professor
Wilson, Allan Ramsay, Adam Black, Sir James Sirnpson, and Dr. Livingstone-The General Improvements in Princes Street.
IN 1774 a proposal to erect buildings on the south
side of Princes Street-a lamentable error in taste
it would have proved-led to an interdict by the
Court of Session, which ended in a reference to
the House of Lords, on which occasion Imd
Mansfield made a long and able speech, and the
result was, that the amenity of Princes Street was
maintained, and it became in time the magnificent
terrace we now find it.
Of the city in 1783 some glimpses are given us
in the ‘‘ Letters of Theophrastus,” appended to the
second edition of “Arnot.” In that year the
revenue of the Post Office was only ~ 4 0 , 0 0 0 .
There were four coaches to Leith, running every
half hour, and there were 1,268 four-wheeled carriages
and 338 two-wheeled paying duty. The
oystercellars had become numerous, and were
places of fashionable resort. A maid-servant’s
wages were about f;4 yearly. In 1763 they wore
plain cloaks or plaids; but in 1783 “silk, caps,
ribbons, ruffles, false. hair, and flounced. petticoats.”
In 1783 a number of bathing-machines had been
adopted at Leith. People of the middle class and
above it dined about four o’clock, after which no
business was done, and gentlemen were at no pains
to conceal their impatience till the ladies retired.
Attendance at church . was, much neglected, and
people did not think it “genteel” to take their
domestics with them. “In 1783 the daughters
even of tradesmen consume the moriings at the
toilet (to which rouge is now an appendage) or in
strolling from the perfumer‘s to the milliner’s.
They would blush to be seeri at market. The
cares of the family devolve upon a housekeeper,
’
and Miss employs those heavy hours when she
is disengaged from public or private amusements
in improving her mind from the precious stores of
a circulating library.” In that year a regular cockpit
was built for cock-fighting, where all distinctions
of rank and character were levelled. The weekly
concert of music began at seven o’clock, and
mistresses of boarding-schools, &c., would not allow
their pupils to go about unattended ; whereas,
twenty years before “young ladies might have
walked the streets in perfect security at all hours.”
In I 783 six criminals lay under sentence of death
in Edinburgh in one week, whereas it1 1763 three
was an average for the whole kingdom in a year.
A great number of the servant-maids still continued
“ their abhorrence of wearing shoes and stockings
in the morning.” The Register House was unfinished,
‘‘ or occupied by pigeons only,” and the
Records “ were kept in a dur.geon called the high
Parliament House.”
The High Street alone was protected by the
guard. The New Town to the north, and all the
streets and new squares to the south, were totally
unwatched ; and the soldiers of the guard still preserved
“the purity of their native Gaelic, so that
few of the citizens understand, or are understood
by them ;” while the king‘s birthday and the last
night of the year were ‘‘ devoted to drunkenness,
outrage, and riot, instead of loyalty, peace, and
harmony,” as of old.
One of the earliest improvements in the extended
royalty was lighting it with oil lamps; but in
the Adnerh’ser for 1789 we are told that “while all
strangers admire the beauty and regularity of the ... whole kingdom in a year. A great number of the servant-maids still continued “ their abhorrence of wearing ...

Vol. 3  p. 119 (Rel. 0.41)

for, a matrimonial alliance having been concluded
between Ermengarde de Beaumont (cousin of
Henry) and King VJilliam, the Castle was thriftily
given up as part of her dowry, after having had an
English garrison for nearly twelve years.
Alexander II., their son, convened his first
parliament in Edinburgh in 1215. Alexander III.,
son of the preceding, having been betrothed to
Margaret daughter of Henry 111. of England
nine years before their nuptials were celebrated
at York in 1242, the queen, according to Amot,
had Edinburgh Castle appointed as her residence;
but it would seem to have been more
of a stronghold than a palace, as she complained
to her father that it was a ‘‘ sad and solitary place,
without verdure, and, by reason of its vicinity to
the sea, unwholesome;” and “that she was not
permitted to make excursions through the kingdom,
nor to choose her female attendants.” She was in
her sixteenth year.
Walter Earl of Menteith was at this time
governor of the fortress, and all the offices of the
city and of the nation itself were in the hands of
his powerful family. Many Englishmen of rank accompanied
the young queen-consort, and between
these southern intruders and the jealous Scottish
nobles there soon arose disputes that were both
hot and bitter. As usual, the kingdom was rent
into two powerful factions-one secretly favouring
Henry, who artfully wished to have Scotland under
his own dominion; another headed by Walter
Comyn, John de Baliol, and others, who kept
possession of Edinburgh, and with it the persons
of the young monarch and his bride. These
patriotically resisted the ambitious attempts of the
King of England, whose emissaries, 0; being joined
by the Earls of Carrick, Dunbar, and Strathearn,
and Alan Dureward, High Justiciary, while theiI
rivals were preparing to hold a parliament at
Stirling, took the Castle of Edinburgh by surprise,
and liberated the royal pair, who were triumphantly
conducted to a magnificent bridal chamber, and
afterwards had an interview with Henry at Wark,
in Northumberland.
During the remainder of the long and prosperous
reign of Alexander 111. the fortress continued to
be the chief place of the royal residence, and foI
holding his courts for the transaction of judicial
affairs, and much of the public business is said tc
have been transacted in St. Maxgaret’s chamber.
In 1278 William of Kinghorn was governor;
and about this period the Castle was repaired and
strengthened. It was then the safe deposit of the
principal records and the regalia of the kingdom.
And now we approach the darkest and bloodiesl
.
portion of the Scottish annals ; when on the death
of the Maid of Norway (the little Queen Margaret)
came the contested succession to the crown between
Bruce, Baliol, and others ; and an opportunity was
given to Edward I. of England of advancing a
claim to the Scottish crown as absurd as it was
baseless, but which that ferocious prince prosecuted
to the last hour of his life with unexampled barbarity
and treachery.
On the 11th of June, 1291, the Castle‘of Edinburgh
and all the strongholds in the Lowlands were
unwisely and unwarily put into the hands of the
crafty Plantagenet by the grasping and numerous
claimants, on the ridiculous pretence that the subject
in dispute should be placed in the power of
the umpire ; and the governors of the various fortresses,
on finding that the four nobles who had been
appointed .guardians of the realm till the dispute
was adjusted had basely abandoned Scotland to
her fate, they, too, quietly gave up their trusts to
Edward, who (according to Prynne’s “ History ”)
appointed Sir Radulf Basset de Drayton governor
of Edinburgh Castle, with a garrison of English
soldiers. According to Holinshed he personally
took this Castle after a fifteen days’ siege with his
warlike engines.
On the vigil of St. Bartholomew a list was
drawn up of the contents of the Treasury in the
Castra de Edrir6ut-g; and among other religious
regalia we find mentioned the Black Rood of
Scotland, which St. Margaret venerated so much. .
By Edward’s order some of the records were left
in the Castle under the care of Basset, but all the
most valuable documents were removed to England,
where those that showed too clearly the
ancient independence of Scotland were carefully
destroyed, or tampered with, and others were left
to moulder in the Tower of London.
On the 8th of July, 1292, we find Edward again
at Edinburgh, where, as self-styled Lord Paramount,
he received within the chapel of St. Margaret the
enforced oath of fealty from Adam, Abbot of Holyrood;
John, Abbot of Newbattle ; Sir Brim le Jay,
Preceptor of the Scottish Templars; the Prior of
St. John of Jerusalem ; and Christina, Prioress of
Emanuel, in Stirlingshire.
Bnice having refused to accept a crown shorn
of its rank, Edward declared in favour of the
pitiful Baliol, after which orders were issued to
the captains of the Scottish castles to deliver
them up to John, King of Scotland. Shame at last
filled the heart of the latter; he took the field, and
lost the battle of Dunbar. Edward, reinforced by
fifteen thousand Welsh and a horde of Scottish
traitors, appeared before Edinburgh Castle; the ... and prosperous reign of Alexander 111. the fortress continued to be the chief place of the royal residence, ...

Vol. 1  p. 23 (Rel. 0.41)

66 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood.
CHAPTER X,
HOLYKOOD PALACE (continued).
.Queen Mary’s Apartments-Her Amval in Edinburgh-Riot in the Chapel Royal-“ The Queen’s Maries ”-Interview with Knox-Mary’s
Marriage with Darnley-The Position of Rizzio-The Murder of Rurio-Burial of Darnley-Marriage of Mary and Bothwell-Mary’s Last
Visit to Holyrood-James VI. and the “ Mad” Earl of Bothwcll-Baptism of the Queen of Bohemia and Charles I.-Taylor the Water-poet
at Holyrood-Charles I.’s Imprisonment-Palace Burned and Re-built-The Palace before 1 6 5 T h e Present Palace-The Quadranglb
The Gallery of the Kings-The Tapestry-The Audience-Chamber.
A WINDING stair in the Tower of James V. gives
access to the oldest portion of the palace, known
.as ‘ I Queen Mary’s Apartments,” on the third floor,
and forming the most interesting portion of the
whole edifice, To the visitor, in Mary’s bedchamber
there seems a solemn gloom which even
the summer sunshine cannot brighten, ruddy
though the glare may be which streams through
that tall window, where we can see the imperial
crown upon its octagon turret. The light seems
only to lay too bare the fibres of the old oak
floor and all the mouldering finery ; a sense of the
pathetic, with something of horror and much of
sadness, mingles in the thoughtful mind; and
much of this was felt even by Dr. Johnson, when he
stood there with Boswell on the 15th of August,
r773.’
With canopy and counterpane, dark and in
shadow, there stands the old pillared bed, with its
crimson silk and satin faded into orange, wherein
slept, and doubtless too often wept, the fair
young Queen of Scotland-she who spent her
happy teens at the Bourbon court, her passionate
youth so sorrowfully in grim grey Scotland, and
who gave up her soul to God at Fotheringay, in
premature old age, and with a calm grandeur that
never saint surpassed.
On the wall there hangs the arras wrought with
the fall of Phaeton, now green and amber-tinted,
revealing the gloomy little door through which
pale Ruthven and stern Darnley burst with their
daring associates, and close by is the supper-room
from whence the shrieking Rizzio was dragged,
and done to death with many a mortal wound.
To the imaginative Scottish mind the whole place
conjures up scenes and events that can never die.
The day on which the queen arrived at Leith,
after a thirteen years’ absence from her native land,
was, as Knox tells us, the most dull and gloomy in
the memory of man. She had come ten days
before she was expected, and such preparations as
the now impoverished people made-impoverished
by foreign and domestic strife since Pinkie had been
lost-were far from complete. The ship containing
her horses and favourite palfrey had been
lawlessly captured by an English admiral ; but
her brother, Lord James Stuart, supplied steeds ;
and Mary, who was accompanied by her uncles,
the Dukes d‘Aumale, Guise, Nemours, the Cardinal
of Lorraine, the Grand Prior, the Marquis d’Elbauf,
and others, could not restrain her tears of mortification
at the gloom and general poverty that appeared
on every hand.
She made her public entry into the city on the
1st of September, and her reception, though
homely, was sincere and cordial, for the Scots
of old had a devotion to their native monarchs
that bordered on the sublime ; and now the youth
and beauty of Mary, and the whole peculiarity
of her position, were calculated to engage the
interest and affection of her people.
The twelve citizens who bore a canopy over
her head were apparelled in black velvet gowns
and doublets of crimson satin, with velvet bonnets
and hose. All citizens in the procession had
black silk gowns faced with velvet and satin
doublets, while the young craftsmen, who marched
in front, wore taffeta. The Upper and Salt Trons,
Tolbooth, and Netherbow were all decorated with
banners and garlands as she proceeded to Holyrood.
The apartments she first occupied were on the
ground floor, and BrantBme gives an amusing
account of the manner in which the citizens
endeavoured to provide for her amusement for
several nights, to the grievous annoyance of her
refined French atteqdants. There came under
her windows,” says he, “ five or six hundred citizens,
who gave her a concert of the vilest fiddles
and little rebecs, which are as bad as they can
be in that country, and accompanied them with
singing psalms, but so wretchedly out of tune
and concord that nothing could be worse.
what melody it was ! what a lullaby for the night ! ”
“They were a company of honest men,” according
to Knox, “who with instruments of music
gave her their salutations at her chamber window.’’
Mary, with policy, expressed her thanks, but removed
to a part of the palace beyond the reach
of this terrible minstrelsy.
She was only nineteen, with few advisers and
none on whom she could rely, and was ignorant
of the people over whom she had been called to
govern. Protestantism was now the only legal
Ah !’ ... NEW EDINBURGH. [Holyrood. CHAPTER X, HOLYKOOD PALACE ( continued ). .Queen Mary’s Apartments-Her Amval in ...

Vol. 3  p. 66 (Rel. 0.41)

Gmrge Street.] THE COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS. I47
of the college, which had entire control over ‘the
drugs of apothecaries and chemists. It further
protected Fellows from sitting on juries.
Under this charter the college continued to
discharge its functions for many years, although
it eventually abandoned in practice the exclusive
rights conferred on it, and ceased to exercise any
inspection over the shops of apothecaries as the
changes of social position and necessity caused
many of the provisions to fall into abeyance.
Having become sensible of the advantages that
would accrue to it from a new charter, to the end
that it might be free from the obligation of admitting
to its license all Scottish University graduates
without examination, to get rid of the clause prohibiting,
its connection with a medical school,
and further, that it might have the power of expelling
unworthy members, a new charter was prepared
in 1843, but, after a great many delays
and readjustments, was not obtained until the 16th
of August, 1861.
The first president of the institution was Dr.
Archibald Stevenson, who was elected on the 8th
of December, 1681, and held the chair till 1684;
his successor was Sir Robert Sibbald (of the house
of Balgonie), an eminent physician, naturalist, and
antiquary, who graduated in medicine at Leyden
in 1661 ; but from the time of his election there is
a hiatus in the records till the 30th of November,
1693, when we again find in the chair Dr.
Archibald Stevenson, with the then considerable
honour of knighthood.
It was when Sir Thomas Burnet, author oi
U Thesaurus Mediam Pructice,” London, I 673,
was president, in 1696-8, that we find it recorded
that certain ruinous buildings bordering on the
Cowgate were converted by the college ‘‘ into a
pavilion-shaped cold bath, which was open to the
inhabitants generally, at a charge for each ablution
of twelve shillings Scots, and one penny to the
servant; but those who subscribed one guinea
annually might resort to. it as often as they
pleased.”
Under the presidency of Dr. John Drumrnond,
in 1722, a new hall was erected in the gardens at
Fountain Close ; but proving insufficient, the college
was compelled to relinquish certain plans for
an edifice, offered by Adam the architect, and to
find a temporary asylum in the Royal Infirmary.
In 1770 the premises at Fountain Close were sold
for A800 ; more money was raised by mortgage
and other means, and the hall we have described
was erected in George Street, only to be relinquished
in time, after about seventy years’ occupancy.
“The same poverty,” says the “Historical Sketch,”
’
which had prevented the college from availing
itself of the plans of Adam, and which had caused
it to desire to part with its new hall in George
Street, even before its occupation, still pressed
heavily upon it. Having at that time no funded
capital, it was entirely dependent on the entrancefees
paid by Fellows, a fluctuating and inadequate
source of income. Besides, beautiful as the
George Street hall was in its outward proportions,
its internal arrangements were not so convenient as
might have been desired, and it is therefore not to
be wondered at that when the college found their
site was coveted by a wealthy banking corporation
their poverty and not their will consented ; and in
1843 the George Street hall was sold to the Commercial
Bank for Azo,ooo-a sum which it was
hoped would suffice to build a more comfortable
if less imposing, hall, and leave a surplus to secure
a certain, though possibly a small, annual income.
Although the transaction was obviously an advantageous
one for the college, it was not without
some difficulty that many of the Fellows made up
their minds to part with a building of which they
were justly proud.”
The beautiful hall was accordingly demolished
to the foundation stone, in which were found the
silver medals and other relics now in possession of
the college, which rented for its use No. 121,
George Street till the completion of its new hall,
whither we shall shortly follow k.
On its site was built, in 1847, the Commercial
Bank, an imposing structure of mingled Greek and
Roman character, designed by David Rhind, an
architect of high reputation. The magnificent
portico is hexastyle. There are ninety-five feet in
length of fapde, the columns are thirty-five feet in
height, with an entablature of nine feet ; the pediment
is fifteen feet six inches in height, and holds
in its tympanum a beautiful group of emblematic
sculpture from the chisel of A. Handyside Ritchie,
which figures on the notes of the bank. It has
a spacious and elegant telling-room, surrounded
by tall Corinthian pillars, with a vaulted roof,
measuring ninety feet by fifty. The Commercial
Bank of Scotland and the National Bank of Scotland
have been incorporated by royal charter ; but
as there is no Qubt about their being unlimited,
they are considered, with the Scottish joint stock
banks, of recent creation.
The deed of partnership of the Commercial
Bank is dated gist October, 1810, but subsequent
alterations have taken place, none of which, however,
in any way affect the principle named and
confirmed in the charter. The capital of the bank
was declared at ~3,000,000 j but only, a thud of ... from sitting on juries. Under this charter the college continued to discharge its functions for many years, ...

Vol. 3  p. 147 (Rel. 0.41)

The Old High School.] RECTORS AND TEACHERS, 291
, in use to teach in those mornings and forenoons.
And considering that the ordinary Latin rudiments
in use to be taught children at their beginning to
the Latin tongue is difficult and hard for beginners,
and that Wedderburn’s Rudiments are more plain
and easy, the Council ordain the said masters in
time coming, to teach and begin their scholars with
Wedderburn’s Rudiments in place of the Latin
Rudiments in use as taught formerly. Ro. CHIESLIE,
Provost.’’
David Wedderburn, whose work is thus referred
to, was born about 1570, and was the accomplished
author of many learned works, and died, it is supposed,
about 1644, soon after the publication of
his ‘‘ Centuria Tertia.”
In 1699 A40 Scots was voted by the magistrates
to procure books as a reward for the best scholars,
and when the century closed the institution was in
a most creditable condition, and they-as patrons
-declared that ‘‘ not a few persons that are now
eminent for piety and learning, both in Church and
State, had been educated there.”
In the year I 7 I 6 there was an outbreak among
the scholars for some reason now unknown ; but
they seem to have conducted themselves in an outrageous
manner, demolishing every pane of glass
in the school, and also of Lady Yester’s church,
levelling to the earth even the solid stone wall
which enclosed the school-yard. About this time
the janitor of the institution was David Malloch, a
man distinguished in after life as author of the
beautiful ballad of “ William and Margaret,” a poet
and miscellaneous writer, and under-secretary to the
Prince of Wales in 1733; to please the English
ear, he changed his name to Mallet, and became
an avowed infidel, and a venal author of the worst
description. Dr. Steven refers to his receipt as
being extant, dated 2nd February, 1718, “for
sixteen shillings and eight pence sterling, being his
full salary for the preceding half-year. That was
the exact period he held the office.”
In 1736 we again hear of the BZeis-siher, cca
profitable relic of popery, which it seemed difficult
to relinquish.” Heartburnings had arisen because
it had become doubtful in what way the Candlemas
offerings should be apportioned between the rector
and masters; thus, on the 28th January in that
year, the Council resolved that the rector himself,
and no other, shall collect, not only his own quarterly
fees, but also the fee of one shilling from
each scholar in the other classes. The Council
also transferred the right from the master of the
third, to the mzster of the first elementary class,
to demand a shilling quarterly from each pupil in
the rector’s class; and declared that the rector
and four masters should favourably receive from
the scholars themselves whatever benevolence or
Candlemas offerings might be presented.”
Thomas Ruddiman, the eminent grammarian and
scholar, who was born at Boyndie in 1674 and
who in 1724 began to vary his great literary
undertakings by printing the ancient Cdedonian
Mercqv, about I 737 established-together with
the rector, the masters, and thirty-one other persons-
a species of provident association for their
own benefit and that of their widows and children,
and adopting as the title of the society, “The
Company of the Professors and Teachers of the
liberal arts and sciences, or any branch or part
thereof, in the City of Edinburgh and dependencies
thereof.”
The co-partners were all taxed equally; but
owing to inequalities in the yearly contributions, a
dissolution nearly took place after an existence of
fifty years; but the association rallied, and stcl
exists in a flourishing condition.
One of the most popular masters in the early
part of the eighteenth century was Mr. James
Barclay, who was appointed in June, 1742, and
whose experience as a teacher, attainments, and
character, caused him to be remembered by his
scholars long after his removal to Dalkeith, where
he died in 1765.
When Henry Mackenzie, author of the ‘‘ Man of
Feeling,” was verging on his eightieth year, he
contributed to Dr. Steven’s CL History,” his reminiscences
of the school in his own early years,
between 1752 and 1757, which we are tempted to
quote at length :-
“Rector Lees, a very respectable, grave, and
gentlemanlike man, father or uncle, I am not sure
which, of Lees, the Secretary for Ireland. He
maintained great dignity, treating the other masters
somewhat de had a bar; severe, and rather too
intolerant of dulness, but kind to more promising
talents. It will not be thought vanity, I trust-for
I speak with the sincerity and correctness of a
third person-when I say that I was rather a
favourite with him, and used for several years after
he resigned his office to drink tea with him at his
house in a large land or building at the country
end of the suburb called Pleasance, built by one
Hunter, a tailor, whence it got the name of
‘ Hunter‘s Folly,’ or the Castle 0’ Clouts.’
cc MAsrERs continued-Ersf, or youngest class,
when I was put to school, Farquhar, a native of
Banffshire, cousin-german of Farquhar, author of
admired-and indeed t h q may be called admirable-
sermons, and of Mr. Farquhar, the Vicar of
Hayes, a sort of Parson Adams,’ a favourite ot ... Folly,’ or the Castle 0’ Clouts.’ cc MAsrERs continued -Ersf, or youngest class, when I was put to ...

Vol. 4  p. 291 (Rel. 0.41)

282 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
style, with many ornate gables, dormer windows,
%ut was a second time stolen ; and in the strangulation
on the scaffold, and the being fouricl in a
ditch among water, the superstitious saw retributive
justice for the murder of which he was
assumed to be guilty. “ I t will be acknowledged,”
says the author of the “ Domestic Annals,”
“that in the circumstances related there is not a
particle of valid evidence against the young man.
The surgeons’ opinion as to the fact of strangulation
is not entitled to much regard ; but, granting
its solidity, it does not prove the guilt of the ac-
.cused. The horror of the young man on seeing
his father’s blood might be referred to painful recol-
Jections of that profligate conduct which he knew
had distressed his parent, and brought his grey
hairs with sorrow to the grave-especially when we
reflect that Stanfield would himself be impressed
with the superstitious feelings of the age, and might
.accept the hzmorrhage as an accusation by heaven
on account of the concern his conduct had in
shortening the life of his father. The whole case
:seems to be a lively illustration of the effect of
superstitious feelings in blinding justice.”
We have thus traced the history of the High
Street and its closes down once more to the
Nether Bow.
In the World’s End Close Lady Lawrence was
a residenter in 1761, and Lady Huntingdon in 1784,
and for some years after the creation of the New
Town, people of position continued to linger in the
Old Town and in the Canongate. And from Peter
Williamson’s curious little ‘‘ Directory ” for 1784,
we can glean a few names, thus :-
I Scottish gentleman, who, though he did not partici-
Lady Mary Carnegie, in Bailie Fyfe’s Close;
Lady Colstoun and the Hon. Alexander Gordon,
on the Castle Hill; General Douglas, in Baron
Maule’s Close; Lady Jean Gordon, in the Hammerman’s
Close; Sir James Wemyss, in Riddle’s
Close; Sir John Whiteford of that ilk, in the
Anchor Close ; Sir Jameg Campbell, in the Old
Bank Close; Erskine of Cardross, in the Horse
Wynd ; Lady Home, in Lady Stair’s Close.
In Monteith‘s Close, in 1794, we find in the
“ Scottish Hist. Register for 1795 recorded the
death of Mr. John Douglas, Albany herald, uncle
of Sir Andrew Snape Douglas, who was captain of
the Queen CharZoffe, of IIO guns, and who fought
her so valiantly in Lord Bridport’s battle on “ the
glonous 23rd of June, 1795.” The house occupied
‘by Lady Rothiemay in Turk’s Close, below
Liberton’s Wynd, was advertised for sale in the
Couranf of 1761 ; and there lived, till his death in
1797, James Nelson, collector of the Ministers’
Widows’ Fund.
In Morrison’s Close in 1783, we find one of the
most fashionable modisfes of Edinburgh announcing
in the Adverfiser of that year, that she is from “one
of the most eminent houses in London,” and that
her work is finished in the newest fashions :-
“ Chemize de Lorraine, Grecian Robes, Habit Bell,
Robe de Coure, and Levites, different kinds, all in
the most genteel and approved manner, and on the
most reasonable terms.”
In the same year, the signboard of James and
Francis Jeffrey, father and uncle of Lord Jeffrey,
still hung in the Lawnmarket.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
NEW STREETS WITHIN THE AREA OF THE FLODDEN WALL.
h r d ’Cockburn Street-Lord Cockburn-The Scotsmun NewspapeFCharles Maclaren and Alexander Russel-The Queen’s Edinburgh
Rifle Brigade-St. Giles Street-Sketch of the Rise d Journalism in Edinburgh-The EdinQxrgk Courunt-The Daily Rnrieur-Jelfrey
Street-New Trinity College Church
THE principal thoroughfare, which of late years has
been run through the dense masses of the ancient
alleys we have been describing, is Lord Cockburn
Street, which was formed in 1859, and strikes
northward from the north-west corner of Hunter‘s
Square, to connect the centre of the 012 city with
-the railway terminus at Waverley Bridge ; it goes
curving down a comparatively steep series of slopes,
and is mainly edificed in the Scottish baronial
lofty tenements in many of the closes that descend
from the north side of the High Street, and was
very properly named after Lord Cockburn, one
entitled to special remembrance on many accounts,
and for the deep interest he took in all matters
connected with his birthplace. When he died,
in April, 1854, he was one of the best and kindliest
of the old school of “Parliameht House Whigs,”
and was a thorough, honest, shrewd, and benevolent
and conical turrets, high over all of which towers
. the dark and mighty mass of the Royal Exchange.
This new street expdses aromantic section of the
pate to any extent in the literary labours of his
contemporaries, has left behind him an interesting
volume of “ Memorials.” Many can yet recall his ... after the creation of the New Town, people of position continued to linger in the Old Town and in the ...

Vol. 2  p. 282 (Rel. 0.41)

98 OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound
and ten elders, of whom five shall retire ‘by
rotation from year to year, two only of whom may
be re-elected, and reserving the rights competent
to all parties under the laws of the Church ; with
authority to undertake the general administration
of college property and finances, to give advice in
cases of difficulty ; to originate and prosecute before
the Church Court processes asainst any of the
professors for heresy or immorality, and to make
necessary inquiries for that purpose ; to originate
also, and prepare for the decision of the General
Assembly, proposals for the retirement of professors
disabled by age or infirmity, and for fixing the
retiring allowance they are to receive.” The
convener is named by the Assembly, and his committees
meet as often as may be necessary. They
submit to the Assembly an annual report of their
proceedings, with a summary of the attendance
during the session.
The election of professors is vested in the
General Assembly ; but they are inducted into their
respective offices by the Presbytery. There is a
Senatus Acadet?~icus, composed of the Principal and
professors.
The library of this college originated with Dr.
Welsh, who in 1843 brought the subject before the
Assembly. He obtained large and valuable
donations in money and books from friends and
from Scottish publishers in this country and
America. Among the benefactors were the Earl
of Dalhousie, Lords Effingham and Rutherford,
General McDowall of Stranraer, Buchan of Kelloe,
and others. The endowment now’ amounts
to about A139 per annum. The library is extensive
and valuable, numbering about 35,000 volumes. It
is peculiarly rich in patristic theology, ecclesiastical
history, systematic theology, and works belonging
to the epoch of the Reformation.
The museum was begun by Dr. Fletning, but was
mainly indebted to the efforts of the late Mrs.
Macfie of Longhouse, who, at its commencement;
enriched it with a large number of valuable
specimens, and led many of her friends to take an
interest in its development. The geological
department, which is on the same floor with the
class-room, contains a large number of fossils, many
of which are very curious. In the upper museum
is the varied and valuable collection of minerals,
given by the late Dr. Johnston of Durham. In the
same room are numerous specimens of comparative
anatomy, The herbarium is chiefly composed of
British plants.
The endowment fund now amounts to above
&+4,ooo, exclusive of LIO,OOO bequeathed for the
endowment of a chair for natural science.
The whole scheme of scholarships in the Free
Church College originated with Mr. James Hog
of Newliston, who, in 1845, by personal exertions,
raised about A700 for this object, and continued to
do so for eight years subsequently. Legacies and
donations at length accumulated such a fund as to
render subscriptions no longer necessary.
A dining hall, wherein the professors preside by
turn, is attached to the New College, to which all
matriculated students, i.e., those paying the common
fee, or securing as foreigners a free ticket,
are entitled to dine on payment of a moderate
sum.
The common hall of the college is converted
into a reading-room during the session. All
students may become members on the payment of
a trifling fee, and the arrangements are conducted
by a committee of themselves. Since 1867 a large
mnasium has been fitted up for the use of the
students, under the management of eight of their
number, the almost nominal subscription of sixpence
from each being found sufficient to defray
the current expenses.
Westward of the Earthen Mound, the once fetid
morass that formed the bed of the loch, and
which had been styled “a pest-bed for all the
city,” is now a beautiful garden, so formed
under the powers of a special statute in 1816-20,
by which the ground there belonging originally to
the citizens became the private property of a few
proprietors of keys-the improvements being in
the first instance urged by Skene, the friend of
Sir Walter Scott
In his “Journal,” under date of January, 1826, Sir
Walter says :-“ Wrote till twelve a.ni., finishing half
of what I call a good day’s work, ten pages of print,
or rather twelve. Then walked in the Princes
Street pleasure grounds with the Good Samaritan
James Skene, the only one among my numerous
friends who can properly be termed amicus curarum .
mearem, others being too busy or too gay. The.
walks have been conducted on the whole with
much taste, though Skene has undergone much‘
criticism, the usual reward of public exertions,
on account of his plans. It is singular to walk
close beneath the grim old castle and think what
scenes it must have seen, and how many generations
of threescore and ten have risen and passed
away. It is a place to cure one of too much
sensation over eanhly subjects of imitation.”
He refers here to James Skene of Rubislaw, a
cornet of the Light Horse Volunteers, the corps of
which he himself was quartermaster, and to whom
he dedicated the fourth canto of “ Marmion,” and
refers thus :- ... personal exertions, raised about A700 for this object, and continued to do so for eight years subsequently. ...

Vol. 3  p. 98 (Rel. 0.41)

I34 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church.
When peace came, Messrs. McVicar and Pitcairn,
his coadjutor, continued faithfully and successfully
to discharge the duties of the ministry.
In 1247 Mr. McVicar, when about to deliver
one of the old Thursday sermons, suddenly dropped
down dead ; and amid a vast concourse of sorrowing
parishioners was deposited in his tomb, which
has a plain marble monument. A well-painted
portrait of him hangs in the vestry of the present
church.
His colleague, the Rev. Thomas Pitcairn, followed
him on the 13th of June, 1751, and a pyramidal
stone, erected to his memory by his youngest
daughter, stands in the ancient burying-ground.
So early as 1738 attempts were made to violate
graves, for surgical purposes, in the churchyard,
which, of course, was then a lonely and sequestered
place, and though the boundary walls were raised
eight feet high, they failed to be a protection, as
watchers who were appointed connived at, rather
than prevented, a practice which filled the parishioners
with rage and horror.
Hence, notwithstanding all the efforts of the
Session to prevent such violation of tombs, several
bodies were abstracted in 1742. George Haldane,
one of the beadles, was suspected of assisting in this
repulsive practice; and on the 9th of May his
house at Maryfield was surrounded by an infuriated
mob, and burned to the ground.
The old church, which stood for ages,and had been
in succession a Catholic, Presbyterian, Episcopalian,
and finally a Presbyterian place of worship again,
and which had been gutted and pillaged by Reformers
and Cromwellians, and cannon-shotted in
civil wars, was found to be dangerous, and condemned
to be taken down. Although the edifice
was insufficient, and in some parts dangerous, there
was no immediate cause for the growing terror
that pervaded the congregation, and culminated in
a general alarm on Sunday, the 27th September,
1772. Part of a seat in one of the galleries gave
way with a crash, on which the entire assembled
mass rushed to the doors, and in an instant the
church was empty.
A jury of tradesmen met to inspect the church,
which they were of opinion should be taken down
without delay; but this verdict had hardly been
drawn up and read, than a fear seized them that
the old church would fall and bury them in its
ruins, on which they fled to the adjacent charity
work house.
The work of demolition was begun forthwith, and
when removing this venerable fane, the interior of
which now, “ formed after no plan, presented a multitude
of petty galleries stuck fip one above another
to the very rafters, like so many pigeons’-nests,” a
curious example of what is namqd heart-burial came
to light.
The workmen, says the .!!ots Migazine for September,
1773, discovered “ a leaden coffin, which
contained some bones and a leaden urn. Before
opening the urn, a most fragrant smell issued out ;
on inspecting the cause of it, they found a human
heart finely embalmed and in the highest state of
preservation. No inscription was upon the coffin
by which the date could be traced, but it must
have been there for centuries. It is conjectured
that the heart belonged to some person who, in the
time of the Crusades, had gone to the Holy Land,
and been there killed, and the heart, as was customary
in those times, embalmed and sent home
to be buried with some of the family.”
Prior to the erection of the new church, the congregation
assembled in a Methodist Chapel in the
Low Calton.
In 1775 it was completed in the hideous taste
and nameless style peculiar to Scottish ecclesiastical
irchitecture during the times of the first three
Georges. It cost A4,231, irrespective of its equally
hideous steeple, and is seated for about 3,000 persons,
and is now the mother church, associated with
ten others, for a parish which includes a great part
of the parliamentary burgh of the capital, and has
a population of more than 140,000. The church,
says a writer, “ apart from its supplemental steeple,
looks so like a huge stone box, that some wags
have described it as resembling a packing-case, out
of which the neighbouring beautiful toy-like fabric
of St. John’s Church has been lifted”
At the base of the spire is a fine piece of monumental
sculpture, from the chisel of the late Handyside
Ritchie, in memory of Dr. David Dickson, a
worthy and zealous pastor, who was minister of the
parish for forty years.
Some accounts state that Napier of Merchiston,
the inventor of logarithms, was interred in the
cemetery; but from an essay on the subject read
before the Antiquarian Society by Professor William
Wallace in 1832, there is conclusive evidence
given, from a work he quoted, “ that Napier was
buried without the West Port of Edinburgh, in the
church of St. Cuthbert,” and in a vault, in the
month of April, 1617.
The baronial family of Dean had also a vault
in the old church, which still remains under the
new, entering from the north. Above it is a
monumentaI stone from the old church, fo the
memory of Henry Nisbet of that ilk, by whom
we thus learn the vault was built. The arms
of the Dean family are still above this black ... came, Messrs. McVicar and Pitcairn, his coadjutor, continued faithfully and successfully to discharge the ...

Vol. 3  p. 134 (Rel. 0.41)

362 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Iauwade
families of note. Philip became sheriff of the
Mearns, and ancestor of the Melvilles of Glenbervie
; Walter, of the Melvilles in Fife ; but Waren
cannot be traced beyond I 178.
By the chartulary of Aberdeen, Sir Gregory of
Melville, in Lothian, would seem to have witnessed
a charter of Alexander II., confirming a gift of
Duncan, eighth Earl of Mar, to the church of
Aberdeen, together with Ranulph de Lambley,
bishop of that see, who died in 1247.
His son William was succeeded in turn by his
son, Sir John Melville, lord of the barony of
Melville, between the years 1329 and 1344.
In the reign of King Robert II., the Melvilles
of Melville ended in Agnes (grandchild and sole
heiress of Sir John of that ilk), who married Sir
John Ross of Halkhead, to whom and his heirs
the estate passed, and continued to be the property
of his descendants, the Lords Ross of Halkhead,
till the middle of the eighteenth century,
when that old Scottish title became extinct, and
Melville passed into the possession of a family
named Rennie.
The present castle, we have said, was built by
the first Viscount Melville, who married, first, Elizabeth,
daughter of David Rennie of Melville, and
was raised to the peerage in 1802. As Henry
Dundas-descended from the old and honourable
house of Arniston, well known in Scottish legal
history-he had risen to eminence as Lord Advocate
of Scotland in 1775, and subsequently filled
some high official situations in England. He
mamed, secondly, Jane, daughter of John, second
Earl of Hopetoun, by whom he had no family.
In 1805 he had the misfortune to be impeached
by the House of Commons for alleged malversation
in his office as Treasurer of the Navy, and after a
full trial by his peers in Westminster Hall, was
judged not guilty. On this event the following
remarks occur in Lockhart‘s ‘‘ Life of Scott ” :-
“ The impeachment of Lord Melville was among
the first measures of the new (Whig) Government ;
and personal affection and gratitude, graced as well
as heightened the zeal with which Scott watched
the issue of this-in his eyes-vindictive proceeding
; but though the ex-minister’s ultimate acquittal
was, as to all the charges involving his personal
honour, complete, it must be allowed that the investigation
brought out many circumstances by no
means creditable to his discretion-and the rejoicings
ought not, therefore, to have been scornfully
jubilant. Such they were, however-at least, i n
Edinburgh ; and Scott took his full share in them
by inditing a song, which was sung by James
Ballantyne at a public dinner given in honour 01
the event, 27th June, 1806.” Of this song one
verse will suffice as a specimen of the eight of
which it consists :-
‘‘ Since here we are set in array round the table,
Five hundred good fellows well met in a hall,
Come listen, brave boys, and I’ll sing as I’m able,
How innocence triumphed and pride got a fall.
Push round the claret-
Come, stewards, don’t spare it-
Here, boys,
Off with it merrily-
With rapture you’ll drink to the toast that I give :
MELVILLE for ever, and long may he live ! ”
It was published on a broadside, to be sold
and sung in the streets.
Kay has a portrait of the first Lord Melville in
the uniforni of the Edinburgh Volunteers, of which
he became a member in July, 1795, but declined
the commission of captain-lieutenant. .
Kay’s editor gives us the following anecdote :-
During the Coalition Administration,. the Hon.
Henry Erskine held the office of Lord Advocate
of Scotland. He succeeded Dundas (the future
Viscount Melville), and on the morning of his
appointment he met the latter in the outer house,
when, observing that Dundas had already resumed
the ordinary stuff gown which advpcates generally
wear, he said, gaily, “I must leave off talking, and
go and order my silk gown,” the official costume
of the Lord Advocate and Solicitor-General. “ It
is hardly worth while,” said Mr. Dundas, drily,
“for all the time you will want it : you had better
borrow mine.”
Erskine’s retort was very smart.
“From the readiness with which you make me
the offer, Dundas, I have no doubt the gown is
made tojtaanyparo; but it shall never be said
of Harry Erskine that he put on the abandoned
habits of his predecessor.” .
The prediction of Dundas proved true, however,
for Erskine held office only for a very short period,
in consequence of a sudden change of ministry.
Lord Melville died on the 29th May, 1811, in
the same week that saw the deatin of his dearest
friend and neighbour, whose funeral he had come to
attend, the Lord President Blair of Avontoun ; and
the fact of “ their houses being next to one another
with only a single wall between the bed-rooms, where
the dead bodies of each were lying at the same
time, made a deep impression on their friends.”
He was succeeded by his eldest son, Robert
Saunders-Dundas, as second Viscount Melville in
Lothian, and Baron Uunira in Perthshire. He
was born in 1771, and married Anne, daughter
and co-heiress of Richard Huck Saunders, M.D.,
upon which he assumed the additional name of
. ... Halkhead, to whom and his heirs the estate passed, and continued to be the property of his descendants, the ...

Vol. 6  p. 362 (Rel. 0.41)

Newhaven.] REV. DR. FAIRBAIRN. 303
In 1820 there were landed at the old stone
pier of Newhaven, John Baud and fourteen other
prisoners, ‘f Radicals ” who had been taken after
the skirmish at Bonny Bridge, by the 10th Hussars
and the Stirlingshire yeomanry. They had been
brought by water from the castle of Stirling, and
were conveyed to gaol from Newhaven in six carriages,
escorted by a macer of justiciary, and the
detachment of a Veteran Battalion.
In the following year, and while railways were
still in the womb of the future, the Scots Magazine
announces, that a gentleman who had left
Belfast on a Thursday, “reached Glasgow the
same evening, and embarked on board the Tounit
(steamer) at Newhaven on Friday, and arrived at
Aberdeen that night. Had such an event been
predicted fifty years ago, it would have been as
easy to make people believe that this journey would
have been accomplished by means of a balloon.”
About five hundred yards westward oi the stone
pier, a chain pier was constructed in the year 1821,
by Captain (afterwards Sir Samuel) Brown, of the
Royal Navy, at the cost of A4,ooo. It is five
hundred feet long, four feet wide, has a depth
at low water of from five to six feet, and served
for the use of the steam packets to Stirling,
Queensferry, and other places above and below
Leith; yet, being unable to offer accommodation for
the bulky steam vessels that frequent the harbour
of the latter or that of Granton, it is now chiefly
used by bathers, and is the head-quarters of the
Forth swimming club.
It was opened on the 14th of October, ISzr,
and was afterwards tested by a weight of twentyone
tons placed upon the different points of
suspension. In 1840 it became the property of
the Alloa Steam Packet Company.
In 1838 Newhaven was erected into a quoad
sma parish, by the aathority of the Presbytery .of
Edinburgh, when a handsome church was erected
for the use of the community, from a design by
John Henderson of Edinburgh.
Near it, in Main Street, is the Free Church,
designed in good Gothic style by James A. Hamilton
of Edinburgh, an elegant feature in the locality,
but chiefly remarkable for the ministry of the late
Rev. Dr. Fairbairn, who died in January, 1879-
a man who came of a notable race, as the wellknown
engineers of the same name were his
cousins, as was also Principal Fairbairn of Glasgow.
He was ordained minister at Newhaven in 1838.
The great majority of his congregation were fishermen
and their families, who were always keenly
sensible of the mode in which he prayed for those
who were exposed to the dangers of the deep.
During his long pastorate these prayers were.a
striking feature in his ministrations, and Charles
Reade, while residing in the neighbourhood, frequently
attended Newhaven Free Church, and has,
in his novel of “ Christie Johnstone,” given a lifelike
portrait of his demeanour when administering
consolation, after a case of drowning.
Perhaps the most useful of thii amiable old
pastor’s philanthropic schemes was that of the
reconstruction of the Newhaven fishing fleet. He
perceived early that the boats in use were wholly
unsuited for modem requirements, and some years
before his death he propounded a plan for replacing
them by others having decks, bunks, and
other compartments. As soon as a crew came forward
with a portion of the money required, Dr. Fairbairn
had no difficulty in getting the remainder
advanced. Thirty-three large new boats, each
costing about Lzso, with as much more for fishing
gear, were the result of his kindly labours. They
have all been prosperous, and hundreds of the
inhabitants of Newhaven, when they stood around
his grave, remembered what they owed to the
large-hearted and prudent benevolence of this old
ministei.
In 1864 a local committee was appointed for
the purpose of erecting a breakwater on the west
side of the present pier, so as to form a harbour
for the fishing craft. Plans and specifications
were prepared by Messrs. Stevenson, engineers,
Edinburgh, and the work was estimated at the
probable cost of L;~,OOO ; and while soliciting aid
from the Board of Fisheries, the Board of Trade,
and the ,magistrates of Edinburgh, the fishermen
honourably and promptly volunteered to convey ’
all the stonework necessary in their boats or otherwise
from the quarry at‘ Qleensferry.
The fishermen of Newhaven rarely intermany
With the women of other fisher communities ; and
a woman of any other class, unacquainted with the
cobbling of nets, baiting and preparation of lines,
the occasional use of a tiller or oar, would be useless
as a fisherman’s wife; hence their continued
intermarriages cause no small confusion in the
nomenclature of this remarkable set of people.
The peculiar melodious and beautiful cry of the
Newhaven oyster-woman-the last of the quaint
old Edinburgh street cries-is well known ; and so
also is their costume ; yet, as in time it may become
a thing of the past, we may give a brief description
of it here. “A cap of linen or cotton,’J says a
writer in Chambers’s EdinQurgh Journal, ‘‘ surmounted
by a stout napkin tied below the chin,
composes the investiture of the hood ; the showy
structures wherewith other females are adorned
,
. ... would be useless as a fisherman’s wife; hence their continued intermarriages cause no small confusion in ...

Vol. 6  p. 303 (Rel. 0.41)

to him an intimation that he was to be made
prisoner, and advised him to lose no time in
assuming the defensive. On this he sent his uncle,
the ‘fambus Gavin Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld,
to remonstrate with the archbishop, Arran, and
others present, “ to caution them against violence,
and to inform them that if they had anything to
allege against him he would be judged by the laws
of the realm, and not by men who were his avowed
enemies.” Meanwhile he put on his armour, and
drew up his spearmen in close array near the
Nether-Bow Port-the Temple Bar of Edinburgh
-a gate strongly fortified by double towers.
When the Bishop of Dunkeld entered the archbishop’s
house in the Blackfriars Wynd he found
all present armed, and resolved on the most desperate
measures. Even the archbishop wore a coat
of mail, covered by his ecclesiastical costume, and
in the dispute that ensued he concluded a vehement
speech by striking his breast, and asseverating-‘‘
There is no remedy ! The Earl of Angus
must go to prison. Upon my conscience I cannot
help it 1 ”
As he struck his breast the armour rattled.
“ How now, my lord ? ” said the Bishop of Dunkeld
; “ I think your conscience clatters! We
are priests, and to bear arms or armour is not
consistent with our profession.”
The archbishop explained “ that he had merely
provided for his own safety in these days of continued
turmoil, when no man could leave his house
but at the hazard of his life.”
Numbers of citizens and others had now joined
Angus, who was exceedingly popular, and the people
handed weapons from the windows to all his followers
who required them. He barricaded all the
entrances to the steep wynds and closes leading from
the High Street to the Cowgate, and took post
himself near the head of the Blackfriars Wynd.
Sir James Hamilton of Finnart came rushing upward
at the head of the Hamiltons to attack the
Douglases. Angus, who knew him, ordered the
latter to spare him if possible, but he was onc
of the first who perished in the fierce and bloody
fray that ensued, and involved the whole city in
universal uproar.
“A Hamilton ! a
Hamilton ! Through ! Through ! ” such were the
adverse cries.
The many windows of the lofty and gable-ended
houses of the High Street were crowded with the
excited faces of spectators ; the clash of swords and
crash of pikes, the shouts, yells, and execration:
of the combatants as they closed in fierce conflict
added to the general consternation, and killed and
“A Douglas ! a Douglas !”
vounded began to cumber the causeway in every
iirection.
The Hamiltons gave way, and, sword in hand,
he exasperated Angus drove them headlong down
be Blackfriars Wynd, killing them on every hand.
r’he Earl of Arran and a kinsman hewed a passage
)ut of the m t e , and fled down an alley on the north
iide of the High Street. At the foot they found
I collier’s horse, and, throwing the burden off the
tnimal, both mounted it, though in armour, swam
t across the loch to the other side, and escaped
tmong the fields, where now Princes Street stands.
Many Douglases perished in the skirmish, which
was long remembered as ‘‘ Cleanse the Causeway.”
3f the Hamiltons eighty were slain on the spot,
including Sir Patrick son of the first Lord Hamilton,
and the Master of Montgomery, according to
Hawthornden. The archbishop fled to the adjacent
Blackfriars church for sanctcary, but the
Douglases dragged him from behind the altar,
rent his episcopal habit from his back, and would ’
have slain him had not the Bishop of Dunkeld
interfered; and he was permitted to fly afoot to
Linlithgow, sixteen miles distant.
Towards the termination of the fight 800 border
troopers, under the Prior of Coldingham (Angus’s
brother), came galloping hi, and finding the gates
and wickets closed, they beat them in with hammers;
but by that time the fray was over.
This was but a specimen of the misrule that
pervaded the whole realm till the arrival of the
Regent Albany, when the Parliament at Edinburgh
named four peers as guardians of the young king
and his infant brother, permitting the queen to name
other four. On this being adjusted, the Duke of
Albany and these peers in their robes of state,
attended by esquires and pages, proceeded to the
Castle, at the gate of which they were received by
a singular tableau of an imposing description.
The bamers were thrown open, and on the
summit of the flight of forty steps which then gave
access to them, stood the beautiful queen of that
heroic king who fell at Flodden, holding by the
hand the little James V., while a pace or two
behind her stood a noble lady, supporting in her
arms his infant brother. With real or affected
sweetness of manner she asked their errand.
“ Madam,” replied the royal duke, “ we come
by the authority of Parliament to receive at your
hands our sovereign and his brother.’’
Margaret Tudor stepped back a pace, and
ordered the portcullis to be lowered, and as the
grating descended slowly between her and the four
delegates, she said :-
“ I hold this Castle by gift from my late husband, ... had merely provided for his own safety in these days of continued turmoil, when no man could leave his ...

Vol. 1  p. 39 (Rel. 0.41)

When all is considered, and we further know that
the building was strong enough to have lasted
many more ages, one cannot but regret that the
palace of Mary de Guise, reduced as it was to vilebess,
should not now be in existence. The site
having been purchased by individuals connected
with the Free Church, the buildings were removed
in 1846 to make rodm for the erection of an academical
institution, or college, for that body.”
The demolition of this mansion brought to light
a concealed chamber on the first floor, lighted by a
narrow loophole opening into Nairne’s Close. The
entrance had been by a movable panel, affording access
to a narrow flight of steps wound round in the
wall of the turnpike stair. The existence of this
mysterious chamber was totally-unknown to the various
inhabitants, and all tradition has been lost of
those to whom it may have afforded escape or refuge.
The Duke of Devonshire possesses an undoubted
portrait of Mary of Guise, It represents her with
a brilliantly fair complexion, with reddish, or
auburn hair. This is believed to be the only
authentic one in existence, That portrait alleged
to be of her in the Trinity House at Leith is a bad
copy, by Mytens, of that of her daughter at St.
James’s. Some curious items connected with her
Court are to be found in the accounts of the Lord
High Treasurer, among them are the following :-
At her coronation in 1540, “Item, deliverit to
ye French telzour, to be ane cote to Serrat, the
Queen’s fule,” &c. Green and yellow seems to have
been the Court fool’s livery; but Mary of Guise,
seems to have had a female buffoon and male
and female dwarfs :-“ 1562. Paid for ane cote,
hois, lyning and making, to Jonat Musche, fule,
A 4 5s. 6d.; 1565, for green plaiding to make
ane bed to Jardinar the fule, with white fustione
fedders,” &c.; in 1566, there is paid for a garment
of red and yellow, to be a gown ‘( for Jane Colqu-,
houn, fule;” and in 1567, another entry, for broad
English yellow, U to be cote, breeks, also sarkis,
to James Geddie, fide.”
The next occupant of the Guise palace, or of
that portioli thereof which stood in Tod’s Close, was
Edward Hope, son of John de Hope, a Frenchman
who had come to Scotland in the retinue of
Magdalene, first queen of James V., in 1537.
It continued in possession of the Hopes till 1691,
when it was acquired by James, first Viscount Stair,
for 3,000 guilders, Dutch money, probably in connection
with some transaction in Holland, from
whence he accompanied William of Orange four
years before, In 1702 it was the abode and property
of John Wightman of Mauldsie, afterwards
Lord Provost of the city. From that period it was
the residence of a succession of wealthy burgesses
-the closes being then, and till a comparatively
recent period, exclusively occupied by peers and
dignitaries of rank and wealth. Since then it shared
the fate of all the patrician dwellings in old Edinburgh,
and became the squalid abode of a host of
families in the most humble ranks of life.
CHAPTER X
THE LAWNMARKET.
The Lawnmarket-RispE-The Weigh-house-Major Somerville and Captain Crawfod-Anderson’s Pills-Mylnc‘s Court-James’s Court-
Su John Lauder-Sir Islay Campbell-David Hum-‘‘ Corsica” Boswell-Dr. Johnson-Dr. Blair-‘‘ Gladstone’s Land”-A Fue in 1771.
THE Lawnmarket is the general designation of that
part of the town which is a continuation of the
High Street, but lies between the head of the old
West Bow and St. Giles’s Church, and is about 510
feet in length. Some venerable citizens still living
can recall the time when this spacious and stately
thoroughfare used to be so covered by the stalls
and canvas baoths of the lawn-merchants,” with
their webs and rolls of cloth of every description,
that it gave the central locality an appearance of
something between a busy country fair and an
Indian camp. Like many other customs of the
olden time this has passed away, and the name
alone remains to indicate the former usages of the
place, although the importance of the street was
such that its occupants had a community of their
own called the Lawnmarket Club, which was
famous in its day for the earliest possession of
English and foreign intelligence.
Among other fashions and customs departed, it
may be allowable here to notice an adjunct of the
first-floor dwellings of old Edinburgh. The means
of bringing a servant to the door was neither a
knocker nor bell, but an apparatus peculiar to
Scotland alone, and still used in some parts of Fife,
called a risf, which consists of a slender bar of
serrated or twisted iron screwed to the door in an
upright position, about two inches from it, and
furnished with a large ring, by which the bar could
be rasped, or risped, in such a way as secured attention.
In many instances the doors were also
furnished with two eyelet-holes, through which the ... the retinue of Magdalene, first queen of James V., in 1537. It continued in possession of the Hopes till ...

Vol. 1  p. 94 (Rel. 0.41)

266 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. rHigh Street.
was, in 1876, LIZ 5s. zd., the total cost being
A~,ggo 18s. zd.
The directors of the United Industrial School
may fairly claim to have practically solved the
greatest difficulty of the educational question ; and
their institution was one of the earliest of its class
to give effect to thediscovery that the training of
‘‘ ragged school ” pupils in such merely mechanical
and elementary work as teasing hair, picking
oakum, net-making, and so forth, was little better
than a waste of time, when compared with that initiation
in skilled handicrafts of the simple order,
which would qualify the children on leaving school
to assume something like an independent position
in life. In the annual repat for 1860 appears the
following :-“The total number of children who
have received the benefit of our school is 950, and
Mr. Fergusson has by patient and laborious investigation,
during six months past, ascertained the
present earnings of upwards of two-thirds of that
.number. These earnings represent the scarcely
credible sum of AI 1,596. From the report of the
following year we learn that the superintendent, by
a most strict investigation, found the sum of annual
earning that year was nearly ~~;I,OOO higher-the
nett sum being A12,472.”
This elaborate record has not been kept up;
but there is no reason to doubt that had it been.so,
the succeeding years would have shown the same
result.
CHAPTER XXXII.
ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET ‘(continued).
Toddrick’s Wynd-Banquet to the Danish Ambassador and Nobles-Lord Leven’s House in Skinner’s Close-The First Mint Houses-The
Mint-Scottish Coin-Mode of its Manufacture-Argyle’s Lodging-Dr. Cullen-Elphinstone’s Court-Lords Loughborough and Stonefield-
Lord Selkirk-Dr. Rutherford, the Inventor of Gas.
banquet was given existed till recently j but the BELOW Blackfriars Street opens Toddrick’s Wynd,
to which a special interest is attached, from its association
with one of the darkest deeds of a lawless
age, for it was by that dark and narrow alley that
James Hepburn Earl of Bothwell and his heartless
accomplices proceeded towards the gate of the
Blackfriars monastery in the Cowgate, on the night
of the 9th of February, 1567, to fire the powder
lodged in the vaults of the provost’s house in the
Kirk-of-field,
- ‘(and blew a palace into atoms,
Sent a young king-a young queen’s mate at least,
Into the air, as high as e’er flew night-hawk,
And made such wild work in the realm of Scotland
As they can tell who heard.”
Till the recent demolitions, the closes between
this point and the Netherbow remained unchanged
in aspect, and in the same state for centuries, szve
that they had become wofully degraded by the
habits, character, and rank of their inhabitants.
In Toddrick’s Wynd, a lofty building with a
massive polished ashlar front at the foot thereof,
and long forming a prominent object amid the
faded grandeur of the Cowgate, was the abode of
Thomas Aitchison, master of the Mint ; and therein,
in 1590, the provost and magistrates, at the expense
of the city, gave a grand banquet to the
ambassador and nobles of Denmark, who had come
to Scotland in the train of Queen Anne.
The handsome alcoved chamber in which the
style- of the entertainment would seem to have been
remarkable for abundance rather than elegance.
There were simply bread and meat, with four boins
of beer, four gangs of ale, and four puncheons of
wine. The house, however, was hung with rich
tapestry, and the tables were decorated with
chandeliers and flowers. We hear, too, of napery,
of ‘( two dozen great vessels,” and of ‘‘ cup-buirds
andmen to keepthem.” Thefurnishing of the articles
had been distributed among the dignitaries of the
city, with some reference to their respective trades.
Aniong those present at the banquet were Peiter
Monck, admiral of Denmark ; Stephen Brahe (a
relative, perhaps, of the great Tycho Brahe) captain
of Eslingburg ; Braid Ransome Maugaret ; Theophilus,
Doctor of Laws; Henry Goolister, captain -
of Bocastle ; William Vanderwent-whose names
are doubtless all misspelt in the record.
The “ napery ” on this occasion was provided by
the Lord Provost, and the musicians, “ fydlerk at the
bankit,” as it is written in the Lord High Treasurer‘s
accounts, were paid for by him. He had also to
pay “for furnessing fyftene fedder beddis to the
Densis (Danes) within the palice of Halierudhous.”
Murdoch’s Close, a gloomy old cul-de-sac, lay
between this alley and Skinner’s Close, at the head
of which was the town house of the Earls of Leven.
The last who resided in Edinburgh, David, sixth
Earl, who was born in 1722, and who was wont, ... XXXII. ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET ‘( continued ). Toddrick’s Wynd-Banquet to the Danish ...

Vol. 2  p. 266 (Rel. 0.41)

242 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE HIGH STREET-(continued).
“The Salamander Land ”-The Old Fishmarket Close-Heriot’s Mansion-The Deemster’s Hocse-Borthwick’s Close-Lord Durie’s House-
Old Assembly Rooms-Edinburgh As.emblies, 17zc-53-Mes Nicky Blurray-Formalities of the Balls-Ladies’ Fashions-Assemblies
Removed to Hell’s Wpd-Hair Srreet and Hunter’s Square-Kennedy’s Close-George Buchanan’s Death-Niddry’r Wynd- Nicol
Edwards’ House-A Case of Homicide in 1597-A Quack Doctor -Livingstone’s Liberty.
IN describing the closes and wynds which diverge
from the great central street of the old city on the
south we must resume at the point where the great
fire of 1824 ceased, a conflagration witnessed by
Sir Walter Scott, who says of it :-
‘‘ I can conceive no sight more grand or terrible
than to see those lofty buildings on fire from top to
bottom, vomiting out flames like a volcano from
every aperture, and finally crashing down one after
another into a* abyss of fire, which resembled
nothing but hell ; for there were vaults of wine and
spirits, which sent up huge jets of flames wherever
they were called into activity by the fall of these
massive fragments.”
‘( The Salamander Land,” an enormous black
tenement, so named from its having survived or
escaped the fires that raged eastward and westward
of it, and named also from that curious propensiv,
which is so peculiarly Scottish, for inventive
and appropriate sobriquets, was removed to
make way for the Police Chambers and the
Cournnt office, in the latter of which James Hannay,
the author of “Satire and Satirists” and several
other works, and Joseph Robertson, the wellknown
Scottish antiquary, conducted the editorial
duties of that paper, the first editor of which
was Daniel Defoe. “We have been told,” says
Wilson, writing of the old tenement in question,
“that this land was said to have been the residence
of Daniel Defoe while in Edinburgh ; the tradition,
however, is entirely unsupported by other testimony.”
Descending the street on the south, as we have
done on the north, we shall peep into each of the
picturesque alleys that remain, and recall those
.which are no more, with all the notables who once
.dwelt therein, and summon back the years, the
men, and the events that have passed away.
Through ‘‘ the Salamander Land ” a spacious
archway led into the Old Fishmarket Close,
where, qrevious to the great fire, an enormous pile
of buildings reared their colossal front, with that
majestic effect produced now by the back of the
Royal Exchange and of James’s Court, and where
now the lofty tenements of the new police office
stand.
To this alley, wherein the cannon shot of Kirkaldy
fell with such dire effect during the great siege
of 1573, Moyse tells us the plague was brought, on
the 7th of May, 1588, by a servant woman from St.
Johnston.
Within the Fishmarket Close was the mansion of
George Heriot, the royal goldsmith, wherein more
recently resided President Dundas, ‘‘ father of Lord,
Melville, a thorough bon vivant of the old claretdrinking
school of lawyers.”
Here, too, dwelt, we learn from Chambers’s
“ Traditions,” the Deemster, a finisher of the law’s
last sentence, a grim official, who annually drew his
fee from the adjacent Royal Bank; and one of the
last of whom, when not officiating at the west end
of the Tolbooth or the east end of the Grassmarket,
eked out his subsistence by cobbling shoes,
Borthwick‘s Close takes its name from the noble
and baronial hmily of Borthwick of that ilk, whose
castle, a few miles south from the city, is one of
the largest and grandest examples of the square
tower in Scotland. In the division 6f the city in
October, 1514, the third quarter is to be-according
to the Burgh records-“ frae the Lopelie Stane
with the Cowgaitt, till Lord Borthwick‘s Close,”
assigned to ‘‘ Bailie Bansun,” with his sergeant
Thomas Amott, and his quartermaster Thomas
Fowler.
The property on the middle of the east side of
the close belonged to one of the Lords Napier of
Merchiston, but to which there is no record to
show; and it is n9t referred to in the minute will
of the inventor of logarithms, who died in 1617.
A new school belonging to Heriot’s Hospital
occupies the ground that intervenes between this
alley and the old Assembly Close.
On that site stood the town mansion of Lord
Dune, President of the Court of Session in 1642,
the hero of the ballad of “ Christie’s Will,” and
according thereto the alleged victim of the Earl of
Traquair, as given in a very patched ballad of the
Border Minstrelsy, beginning :-
“ Traquair he has ridden up Chapelhope,
And sae has he doon by the Greymare’s Tail ;
Till he spiered for Christie’s Will”
But he never stinted his light gallop,
And hence for a time the alley bore the name of
Lord Dune’s Close.
On the site of his mansion, till its destruction by
the fire of 1824, stood the Old Assembly Rooms ... [High Street. CHAPTER XXVIII. THE HIGH STREET-( continued ). “The Salamander Land ”-The Old ...

Vol. 2  p. 242 (Rel. 0.41)

246 OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [Cowgate.
showed that the barrel had been placed so as to collect
the rain water from the eaves of a long defunct
house, with a stepping-stone to enable any one to
reach its contents.
The old Meal Market was the next locality of
importance on this side. In 1477 James 111.
ordained this market to be held “ fra the Tolbooth
up to Liberton’s Wynd, alsua fra thence upward to
the treviss;” but the meal market of 1647, as
shown in Gordon’s map, directly south of the
. Parliament House, seems to have been a long,
unshapely edifice, with two high arched gates.
. In 1690 the meal market paid to the city,
A77 15s. 6d. sterling. As we have related elsewhere,
all this quarter was destroyed by the “ Great
Fire” of 1700, which “broke out in the lodging
immediately under Lord Crossrig‘s lodging in the
meal market,” and from which he and his family
had to seek flight in their night-dress. One of
his daughters, Jean Home, died at Edinburgh in
Feb. 1769.
Edgar‘s map shows the new meal market, a huge
quadrangular mass, with 150 feet front by 100 in
depth, immediately eastward of the Back Stairs.
This place was the scene of a serious not in 1763.
In November there had been a great scarcity of
meal, by which multitudes of the poor were reduced
to great suffering; hence, on the evening of the
zIst, a great mob proceeded to the gimels in the
meal market, carried off all that was there, rifled
the house of the keeper, and smashed all the furniture
that was not carried OK At midnight the
mob dispersed on the amval of some companies
of infantry from the Castle, to renew their riotous
proceedings, however, on the following day, when
they could only be suppressed “by the presence
of the Provost (George Drummond), bdies, trainband,
constables, party of *e military, and the
city guard.” Many of the unfortunate rioters
were captured at the point of the bayonet, and
lodged in the Castle, and the whole of the Scots
Greys were quartered in the Canongate and Leith
to enforce order, “ The magistrates of Edinburgh,
and Justices of Peace for the County of Midlothian,”
says the Norfh BnYish Magazine for I 763,
have since used every means to have this market
supplied effectually with meal ; but from whatever
cause it may proceed, certain it is that the scarcity
of oatmeal is still severely felt by every family who
have occasion to make use of that commodity.”
The archiepiscopal palace and the mint, which
were near each other, on this side of the street,
have already been described (Vol. I., pp. 262-4;
267-270); but one of the old features of the locality
still remaining unchanged is the large old
gateway, recessed back, which gave access to the
extensive pleasure-grounds attached to the residence
of the Marquises of Tweeddale, and which seem to
have measured 300 feet in length by 250 in breadth,
and been overlooked in the north-west angle by the
beautiful old mansion of the Earls of Selkirk, the
basement of which was a series of elliptical arcades.
These pleasure grounds ascended from the street
to the windows of Tweeddale House, by a succession
of terraces, and were thickly planted on the
east and west with belts of trees. In Gordon’s
map for 1647, the whole of this open area had
been-what it is now Secoming again-covered
by masses of building, the greatest portion of it
being occupied by a huge church, that has had, at
various times, no less than three different congregations,
an Episcopal, Presbyterian, and, finally,
a Catholic one.
For a few years before 1688 Episcopacy was
the form of Church government in Scotlandillegally
thrust upon the people; but the selfconstituted
Convention, which transferred the
crown to William and Mary, re-established the
Presbyterian Church, abolishing the former, which
consisted of fourteen bishops, two archbishops,
and go0 clergymen. An Act of the Legislature
ordered these to conform to the new order of
things, or abandon their livings; but though expelled
from these, they. continued to officiate
privately to those who were disposed to attend to
their ministrations, notwithstanding the penal laws
enacted against them-laws which William, who
detested Presbyterianism, and was an uncovenanted
King,” intended to repeal if he had
lived. The title of archbishop was dropp’ed by
the scattered few, though a bishop was elected
with the title Primus, to regulate the religious
affairs of the community. There existed another
body attached to the same mode of worship,
composed of those who favoured the principles
which occasioned the Revolution in Scotland,
and,adopting the ritual of the Church of England,
were supplied With clergy ordained by bishops of
that country. Two distinct bodies thus existeddesignated
by the name of Non-jurants, as declining
the oaths to the new Government The first
of these bodies-unacknowledged as a legal
association, whose pastors were appointed by
bishops, who acknowledged only the authority of
their exiled king, who refused to take the oaths
prescribed by lam; and omitted all mention of the
House of Hanover in their prayers-were made
the subject of several penal statutes by that
House.
An Episcopal chapel, whose minister was qualified ... their livings; but though expelled from these, they. continued to officiate privately to those who were ...

Vol. 4  p. 246 (Rel. 0.41)

THE ROYAL INFIRMARY. 299 h6rmary Street]
students to witness surgical operations. The Infirmary
has separate wards for male and female
patients, and a ward which is used as a Lock
hospital ; but even in ordinary periods the building
had become utterly incompetent for the service
of Edinburgh, and during the prevalence of an epidemic
afforded but a mere fraction of the required
accommodation, and hence the erection of its magnificent
successor, to which we shall refer elsewhere.
The Earl of Hopetoun, in 1742, and for the last
twenty-five years of his life, generously contributed
A400 per annum to the institution when it was
young and struggling. In 1750 Dr. Archibald Kerr
of Jamaica bequeathed to it an estate worth
E218 11s. 5d. yearly; and five years afterwards
the Treasury made it a gift of jG8,ooo j yet it has
never met with the support from Government. that
it ought to have done, and which similar institutions
in London receive.
But the institution owed most of its brilliant
success to Lord Provost Drummond. Among his
associates in this good work he had the honoured
members of the Colleges of Physicians and Surgeons
in Edinburgh, ever first in all works of goodness and
charity; and the first Dr. Munro, Professor of
Anatomy, was singularly sanguine of the complete
success of the undertaking.
That portion of the house which was founded by
the Earl of Cromarty was opened for the reception
of patients in December, 1741. The theatre described
was made to serve the purposes also of a
chapel, and twelve cells on the ground floor, for cases
of delirium fremens, being found unnecessary, were
converted into kitchens and larders, &c. The
grounds around the house, consisting of two acres,
and long bounded on- the south by the city wall,
were laid out into grass walks for the convalescents,
and ultimately the house was amply supplied with
water from the city reservoir.
In the years 1743-4 the sick soldiers of the
regiments quartered in the Castle were accommodated
in the Infirmary; and in the stormy
period of the '45 it was of necessity converted into
a great military hospital for the sick and wounded
troops of both armies engaged at Prestonpans and
elsewhere ; and in I 748 the surgeon-apothecaries,
who since 1729 had given all manner of medical
aid gratis, were feed for the first time. Wounded
from our armies in Flanders have been sent there
for treatment.
In 1748, after paying for the site, building,
furniture, &c., the stock of the institution amounted
to &5,00o; and sick patients not wishing to be resident
were invited to apply for advice on Mondays
and Fridays, and were in cases of necessity
admitted as supernumeraries at the rate of 6d. per
day. About this time there was handed over an
Invalid Grant made by Government to the city,
on consideration of sixty beds being retained for
the use of all soldiers who paid 4d. per diem for
accommodation, This sum, &3, 2 70, was fully made
over to the managers, who, for some time afteqfound
themselves called upon to entertain so many military
patients, that a guard had to be mounted on
the house to enforce order; and liberty was obtained
to deposit all dead patients in Lady Yester's
churchyard, on the opposite side of the street.
Hitherto the physicians had, with exemplary
fidelity, attended the patients in rotation j but in
January, 1751, the managers on being empowered
by the general court of contributors, selected Dr.
David Clerk and Dr, Colin Drummond, physicians
in ordinary, paying them the small honorarium of
;E30 annually.
The University made offer to continue its
services, together with those of the ordinary physicians,
which offer was gladly accepted; and
though the practice fell into disuse, they were long
continued in monthly rotation. To the option of
the two ordinary physicians was left the visiting
of the patients conjointly, or by each taking his
own department. "It was their duty to sign the
tickets of admission and dismission. In case of any
unforeseen occurrences or dangerous distemper, the
matron or clerks were permitted to use this authe
rity ; the physicians en their amval, however, were
expected to append their signatures to the tickets.
The good and economy of the house from the first,
induced the managers to appoint two of their
number to visit the institution once every month,
who were enjoined to inquire how far the patients
were contented with their treatment, and to note
what they found inconsistent with the ordinary
regulations : their remarks to be entered in a book
of reports, to come under review at the first meeting
of managers." (" Journal of Antiq.," VoL 11.)
In 1754 some abuses prevailed in the mode of
dispensing medicines to the out-door patients,
detrimental to the finances ; an order was given for
a more judicious and sparing distribution. In the
following pear application was made to the Town
Council, as well as to the Presbytery of the Church,
to raise money at their several churches to provide
a ward for sick servants-which had been found
one of the most useful in the house. From its
first institution the ministers of the city had, in
monthly rotation, conducted the religious services ;
but in the middle of 1756 the managers appointed
aregular chaplain, whose duty it was to preach
every Monday in the theatre for surgical operations. ... was gladly accepted; and though the practice fell into disuse, they were long continued in monthly rotation. ...

Vol. 4  p. 299 (Rel. 0.41)

210 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
likely to have arisen. It happened by accident
that the Earl of Bothwell, coming out of the Earl
of Crawford’s lodging, was met by the Earl of Marr,
who was coming out of the Laird of Lochleven’s
lodging hard by; as it being about ten o’clock at
night, and so dark that they could not know one
another, he passed by, not knowing that the
Master of Glammis was there, but thinking it was
only the Earl of Marr. However, it was said that
some ambushment of men and hackbuttiers had
been duressed in the house by command of both
parties.”
Some brawl or tragedy had evidently been on
the tapis, for next day the king had the Earl of
Bothwell and the Master before him at Holyrood,
and committed the former to ward .in the Palace
of Linlithgow, and the latter in the Castle of Edinburgh,
“ for having a band of hacquebuttiers in
ambush with treasonable intent.”
Passing to more peaceable times, on the same
side of the street, we come to one of the most
picturesque edifices in it, numbered as 155 (and
nearly opposite Niddry Street), in which Allan
Ramsay resided and began his earlier labours, “at
the sign of the Mercury,” before he removed, in
1726, to the shop in the Luckenbooths, where we
saw him last.
It is an ancient timber-fronted land, the sinplarly
picturesque aspect of which was much marred
by some alterations in 1845, but herein worthy
Allan first prosecuted his joint labours of author,
editor, and bookseller. From this place he issued
his poems in single or half sheets, as they were
mitten ; but in whatever shape they always found
a ready sale, the citizens being wont to send their
children with a penny for “ Allan Ramsay’s last
piece.” Here it was, that in 1724 he published
the first volume of “The Tea Table Miscellany,”
a collection of songs, Scottish and English,
dedicated
“ To ilka lovely British lass,
Frae Ladies Charlotte, Anne and Jean,
Wha dances barefoot on the green.”
This publication ran through twelve editions, and
its early success induced him in the same year to
bring out “ The Evergreen,” a collection of Scottish
poems, ‘‘ wrote by the Ingenious before 1600,”
professed to be selected from the Bannatyne MSS.
And here it was that .Ramsay- had some of his
hard struggles with the magistrates and clergy,
who deemed and denounced all light literature,
songs, and plays, as frivolity and open profanity, in
She sour fanatical spirit of the age.
Doon to ilk bonny singing Bess
Religion, in form, entered more into the daily
habits of the Scottish people down to 1730 than it
now does. Apart from regular attendance at
church, and daily family worship, each house had
some species of oratory, wherein, according to the
Domestic Annals, “ the head of the family could
at stated times retire for his private devotions,
which were usually of a protracted kind, and often
accompanied by great moanings and groanings,
expressive of an intense sense of human worthlessness
without the divine favour.” Twelve
o’clock was the hour for the cold Sunday dinner.
(‘ Nicety and love of rich feeding were understood
to be the hateful peculiarities of the English, and
unworthy of the people who had been so much
more favoured by God in the knowledge of matters
of higher concern.” Puritanic rigour seemed to
be destruction for literature, and when Addison,
Steele, and Pope, were conferring glory on that of
England, Scotland had scarcely a writer of note ;
and Allan Ramsay, in fear and trembling of legal
and clerical censure, lent out the plays of Congreve
and Farquhar from that quaint old edifice
numbered 155, High Street.
The town residence of the Ancrum family was
long one of the finest specimens of the timberfronted
tenements of the High Street. It stood on
the north side, at the head of Trunk‘s Close,
behind the Fountain Well, and though it included
several rooms with finely-stuccoed ceilings, and a
large hall, beautifully decorated with rich pilasters
and oak panelling-and was undoubtedly worthy
of being preserved-it was demolished in 1873.
Here was the first residence of Scott of Kirkstyle,
who, in 1670, obtained a charter under the great
seal of the barony of Ancrum, and in the following
year was created Sir John Scott, Baronet, by
Charles 11.
In 1703 the house passed into the possession of
Sir Gilbert Elliot, Bart., of Stobs, who resided here
with his eight sons, the youngest of whom, for his
glorious defence of Gibraltar, was created Lord
Heathfield in 1787.
On the same side of the street, Archibald
Constable, perhaps the most eminent publisher
that Scotland has produced, began business in a
small shop, in the year 1795, and from there, in
the November .of that year, he issued the first of
that series of sale catalogues of curious and rare
books, which he continued for a few years to
issue at intervals, and which attracted to his shop
all the bibliographers and lovers of literature in
Edinburgh.
Hither came, almost daily, such men as Richard
Heber, afterwards M.P. for the University of ... of sale catalogues of curious and rare books, which he continued for a few years to issue at intervals, and ...

Vol. 2  p. 210 (Rel. 0.41)

OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [South Bridge.
. . .~ 374
in 1765, and two ancient thoroughfares, the Wynds
of Marlin and Peebles, with the east side of
Niddry’s Wynd.
In Queen Mary’s time the corn-market was removed
from the corner of Marlin’s Wynd to the
, east end of the Grass-market, where it continued to
’ be held till the present century. This wynd led
to the poultry-market, and ran south from the
back of the Tron church to the Cowgate, and at the
time of its demolition contained many book shops
and stalls, the favourite lounge of all collectors of
rare volumes, and had connected with it a curious
legend, recorded by Maitland’s History in 1753.
John Marlin, a Frenchman, is said to have been
the first who was employed to pave or causeway
the High Street, and was so vain of his work that,
as a monument to bis memory, he requested to be
buried under it,’ and he was accordingly buried at
the head of the wynd, which from that time took
his name. The tradition was further supplemented
by the fact that till the demolition of the wynd, a
space in the pavement at that spot was always
marked by six flat stones in the form of a grave.
‘’ According to more authentic information,” says
Chambers, “the High Street was first paved in
1532, by John and Bartoulme Foliot, who appear
to have had nothing in common with this legendary
Marlin, except country. The grave of at least
Bartoulme Foliot is distinctly marked by a flat
monument in the chapel royal at Holyrood.”
The pavior’s name is perhaps not quite “ legendary”
after all, as in the accounts of the Lord High
Treasurer we have a sum stated as being paid to
John Merlyoune,” in 1542, for building a Register
House in the Castle of Edinburgh.
The father of Sir William Stirling, Eart., who
was Lord Provost of the city in 1792, and who
had the merit of being the architect of his own
fortunes, was a fishmonger at the head of the
wynd, where his sign, a large clumsy wooden
black bull, now preserved as a relic in the Museum
of Antiquities, was long a conspicuous object as it
projected over the narrow way.
, It was at the head of Peebles Wynd, the adjoining
thoroughfare, in 1598, that Robert Cathcart,
who ten years before had been with Eothwell,
when tlie latter slew Sir William Stewart in Blackfriars
Wynd, was slain by the son of the latter,
according to Birrel.
During the demolitions for the projected bridge
an ancient seal of block-tin was found, of which
an engraving is given in the GenfZeman’s Mugaazine
for 1788, which says: “ I t is supposed to
.be the arms of Arnof and is a specimen of the
,seals used for writings, imprkions of which were
directed to be given to the sheriffs’ clerks of the
different counties in Scotland in the time of Queen
blary.”
In digging the foundation of the central pier,
which was no less than twenty-two feet deep, many
coins of the three first English Edwards were found.
The old buildings, which were removed to make
room for this public work, were, according to Stark,
purchased at a trifling cost, their value being fixed
by the verdict of juries, while the areas on which they
stood were sold by the city for the erection of new
buildings on each side of the bridge for A30,ooo.
“It has been remarked,” he adds, “ that on this
occasion the ground sold higher in Edinburgh than
perhaps ever was known in any city, even in Rome,
during its most flourishing times. Some of the
areas sold at the rate of A96,ooo per statute acre ;
others at AIO~,OOO per ditto; and some even so
high as ~150,000 per acre.”
The foundation stone of the bridge was laid on
the 1st of August, 1785, by George Lord Haddo,
Grand Master Mason of Scotland, attended by the
brethren of all the lodges in town, and the magistrates
and council in their robes, who walked in
procession from the Parliament House, escorted
by the soldiers of the City Guard-those grim old
warriors, who, says Imd Cockburn, “ had muskets
and bayonets, but rarely used them.”
The bridge was carried on with uncommon dispatch,
and was open for foot-passengers on the 19th
of November, 1786, but only partially, for the author
above quoted mentions that when he first went to
the old High School, in 1787, he crossed the arches
upon planks. In the following year it was open for
carriages. It consists of nineteen arches. That
over the Cowgate is thirty-one feet high by thirty
wide; the others, namely, seven on the south and
eleven on the north, are concealed by the buildings
erected and forming it into a street. From the
plan and section published by the magistrates at
the time, it would appear that the descent from
Nicolscrn Street is one foot in twenty-two to the
south pier of the Cowgate arch ; and from thence
on the north, the ascent to the High Street is one foot
in twenty-eight. From the latter to the southern
end, where the town wall stood, extends South
Bridge Street, “in length 1,075 feet by fifty-five
wide,” says, Kincaid, “ including the pavement on
each side.”
The drst house built here was that numbered
as I, forming the corner building at the junction
with the High Street. It was erected by Mr.
James Cooper, a jeweller, who resided in the upper
flat, and died in ISIS.
Except at the central arch, which spans the ... Wynd to the , east end of the Grass-market, where it continued to ’ be held till the present century. This ...

Vol. 2  p. 374 (Rel. 0.4)

Craigcrook.] HISTORY OF CRAIGCROOK. 107
summer residence of Lord Jeffrey-deeply secluded
amid coppice.
The lands of Craigcrook appear to have belonged
in the fourteenth century to the noble family of
Graham. By a deed bearing date 9th April, 1362,
Patrick Graham, Lord of Kinpunt, and David
Graham, Lord of Dundaff, make them over to
John de Alyncrum, burgess of Edinburgh. He
in turn settled them on a chaplain officiating at
“Our Lady’s altar,” in the church of St. Giles,
and his successors to be nominated by the magistrates
of Edinburgh.
John de Alyncrum states his donation of those
lands of Craigcrook, was “ to be for the salvation
of the souls of the late king and queen (Robert
and Elizabeth), of the present King David, and of
all their predecessors and successors ; for the salvation
of the souls of all the burghers of Edinburgh,
their predecessors and successors ; of his own father
and mother, brothers, sisters, etc. ; then of himself
and of his wife; and, finally, of all faithful souls
deceased.”
The rental of Craigcrook in the year 1368 was
only A6 6s. 8d. Scots per annum; and in 1376 it
was let at that rate in feu farm, to Patrick and
John Lepars.
At an early period it became the property of
the Adamsons. William Adamson was bailie of
Edinburgh in 1513, and one of the guardians of
the city after the battle of Flodden, and Williim
Adamson of Craigcrook, burgess of Edinburgh
(and probably son of the preceding), was killed at
the battle of Pinkie, in 1547 ; and by him or his
immediate successors, most probably the present
castle was built-an edifice wbich Wood, in his
learned ‘‘ History of Cramond Parish,” regards
as one of the most ancient in the parish.
In consequence of the approaching Reformation,
the proceeds of the lands were no longer required
for pious purposes, and the latter were made over by
Sir Simon Prestonof Craigmillar, when Provost, to Sir
Edward Marj oribanks, styled Prebend of Craigcrook.
They were next held for a year, by George Kirkaldy,
brother of Sir James Kirkaldy of Grange in
Fifeshire, Lord High Treasurer of Scotland, who
engaged to pay for them A27 6s. 8d. Scots.
In June, 1542, they reverted again to Sir Edward
Majoribanks, who assigned them in perpetual feufarm
to William Adamson before-named. This
wealthy burgess had acquired much property in
the vicinity, including Craigleith, Cammo, Groat
Hall, Clermiston, Southfield, and part of Cramond
Regis. After Pinkie he was succeeded by his son
William, and Craigcrook continued to pass through
several generations of his heirs, till it came into
~~
the hands of Robert Adamson, who, in 1656, sold
to different persons the whole of his property.
Craigcrook was purchased by John Muir, merchant
in Edinburgh, whose son sold it to Sir John
Hall, Lord Provost of the city in 1689-92. He was
created a baronet in 1687, and was ancestor of the
Halls of Dunglass, on the acquisition of which, in
East Lothian, he sold Craigcrook to Walter Pringle,
advocate, from whose son it was purchased by John
Strachan, clerk to the signet.
When the latter died in 1719, he left the whole
of his property, with North Clermiston and the
rest of his fortune, both in land and movables
(save some small sums to his relations) ‘‘ mortified
for charitable purposes,”
The regulations were that the rents should be
given to poor old men and women and orphans ;
that the trustees should be “two advocates, two
Writers to the Signet, and the Presbytery of Edinburgh,
at the sight of the Lords of Session, and any
two of these members,” for whose trouble one
hundred merks yearly is allowed.
There are also allowed to the advocates, poor
fifty merks Scots, and to those of the writers to the
signet one hundred merks ; also twenty pounds
annually for a Bible to one of the members of the
Presbytery, beginning with the moderator and
going through the rest in rotation.
This deed is dated the 24th September, 1712.
The persons constituted trustees by it held a meeting
and passed resolutions respecting several
points which had not been regulated in the will. A
clerk and factor, each with a yearly allowance of
twenty pounds, were appointed to receive the
money, pay it out, and keep the books.
They resolved that no old person should be
admitted under the age of sixty-five, nor any orphan
above the age of twelve; and that no annuity
should exceed five pounds.
Among the names in a charter by William
Forbes, Provost of the Collegiate Church of St.
Giles, granting to that church a part of the ground
lying contiguous to his manse for a burial-place,
dated at Edinburgh, 14th January, 1477-8, there
appears that of Ricardus Robed, jrebena‘anks de
Cragmk mansepropie (“ Burgh Charters.”)
Over the outer gate of the courtyard a shield
bore what was supposed to have been the arms of
the Adamsons, and the date 1626 ; but Craigcrook
has evidently been erected a century before that
period. At that time its occupant was Walter
Adamson, who succeeded his father Willian~
Adamson in 1621, and whose sister, Catharine,
married Robert Melville of Raith, according to
the Douglas Peerage. ... he was succeeded by his son William, and Craigcrook continued to pass through several generations of his ...

Vol. 5  p. 107 (Rel. 0.4)

CONTENTS. B
CHAPTER XV.
. THE CHURCH OF ST. GILES. PAGE
SL Giles’s Church-The Patron Saint-Its Wgh and early Norman style-The Renovation of xEzg-History of the StrucsPmcession of
the Saint‘s Relics-The Preston Relic-The Chapel of the Duke of Albany-Funeral of the Regent Morray-The “Gude Regent’s
Aisle”-The Assembly Aisle-Dispute between James VI. and the Church Part-Departure of James VI.-Haddo’s Hole-The
Napier Tomb-The Spire and Iantun--Clak and Bells-The Krames-Restoration of 1878 . . . . . . . 1.38 . .
CHAPTEK XVI.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ST. GILES’S.
St Giles’s Churchyard-The Maison Dieu-The Clam-shell Turnpike-The Grave of Knox-The City C-The Summons of Pint-
Executions : Kirkaldy, Gilderoy, and othe-The Caddies-The Dyvours Stane-The LnckenboobThe Auld Kirk Style-Byre’s
Lodging--Lord Coaktoun’s Wig-Allan Ramsay’s Library and ‘‘ Creech’s Land”-The Edinburgh Halfpenny . . . . . 1 4
f .
CHAPTEK XVII.
‘ THE PARLIAMEXT HOUSE.
Site of the Parliament Iiouse-The Parliament Hall-Its fine Roof-Proportions-Its External Aspect of Old-Pictures and Statues-The
Great South Window-The Side Windows-Scots Prisoners of War-General Monk Feasted-A Scene with Gen. DalyeU-The Fire of
17-Riding of the Parliament-The Union-Its due Effects and ultimate good Results-Trial of Covenanters . . . . . 157
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE PARLIAMENT HOUSE (continued).
The Faculty of Advocates-The Wr:ters to the Signet-Solicitors before the Supreme Court-The First Lords of Session-The Law Courts-
The Court of Session: the Outer and Inner HousesXollege of Justice-Supreme Judicature Court-Its Corrupt Nature-How Justice
used to be defatec-Abduction of Lord Dune-Some Notable Senators’of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries: Lord0
Fountainhall, Covington, Monboddo, Kames, Hailes, Gardenstone. Amiston, Balmuto, and Hermand . . . . . , I66
CHAPTER XIX.
THE PARLIAMENT CLOSE.
Probable Extinction of the Court of Scion-Memorabiliaof the Parliament Close‘and Square-Goldsmiths of the OldenTime-Gearge Heriot-
HIS Workshop-His Interview with James VI.-Peter Williamson’s Tavern-Royal Exchange-Statueof Charles 11.-Bank of Satha-
The Fire of 17-The Work of Restoration-John Row’s Coffee-house-John’s Coffee-house-SylvesterOtwaFSir W. Forbes‘s Bank-
6ir Walter Scott’s Eulogy on Sir Willkm Forks-John Kay’s Print-shopThe Parliament ShirsiJames Sibbald-A Libel Gsc-Fire
in Junz IllatDr. Archibald Pitcairn-lhe “Greping Office”-Painting of King Charles’s Statue White-Seal of Arnauld Lzmmiua 174
CHAPTER XX.
THE ROYAL EXCHAGGE-THE TRON CHURCH-THE GREAT FIRE OF NOVEMBER, 18%
The Royal Exchange-Laying the Foundation Stone-Description of the Exchanee-The Mysterious Statue-The Council Chamber-
Convention of Rayal Burghs : Constitution thereof, and Powers-Writers’ Court-The s‘ Star and Garter ” Tavern-Sir Walter
Scotth Account of the Scene at Clenheugh‘s-Lawyers’ High Jinks-The Tron Church-History of the Old Church-The Great Fire
of 18z4-1nddents of the ConAagration-The Ruin9 Undermined-Blown up by Captain Head of the Engioew . . . . 183
CHAPTER XXI.
T H E H I G H S T R E E T .
A Place for Blawling-First Paved and Lighted-The Meal and Flesh Market-State of the Streets-Municipal Regnlations 16th Ccntury-
Tulzies-The Lairds of Airth and Wemyss-The Tweedies of Drumrnelzier-A Montrose Quarrel-The Slaughter of Lord T o r t h d d
-A Brawl in 1705-Attacking a Sedan Chair-Habits in the Seventeenth Century-Abduction of Women and Girls-Sumptuary
Laws against Women . , . . - . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . , . 191
CHAPTER XXII.
THE HIGH STREET (continucd).
Thc City in 1598-Fynes Morison on the Manners of the Inhabitants-Tle “Lord” Provost of Edinburgh-Police of the City-Taylor the
Water Poet-Banquets at the Cross-The hard Case of the Earl of Traquair-A Visit of H-The Quack and his Acrobats-A
Procession of Covenanters-Early Stages and Street Caaches--Salc of a Dancing-girl-Constables appointed in Ip-First Numher of
the Courrmt-The Cnledomian Mercwy-Carting away of the strata of Street Filth-Candition of old Houses . . . . . 198 ... . . . . . 157 CHAPTER XVIII. THE PARLIAMENT HOUSE ( continued ). The Faculty of Advocates-The Wr:ters to the ...

Vol. 2  p. 387 (Rel. 0.4)

Parlient Close.] JOHN OSW.4LD. I79
his peculiar hze& or place of resort by day or
night, where merchants, traders, and men of every
station, met for consultation, or good-fellowship,
and to hear the items of news that came by the
mail or stage from distant parts; and Wilson,
writing in 1847, says, “ Currie’s Tavern, in Craig’s
Close, ‘once the scene of meeting of various clubs,
and a favourite resort of merchants, still retains
.a reputation among certain antiquarian bibbers for
an old-fashioned luxury, known by the name
of jaj-in, a strange compound of small-beer and
whiskey, curried, as the phrase is, with a little
aatmeal.”
Gossiping Wodrow tells us in his ‘I Analecta,”
that, on the 10th of June, 1712, “The birthday of
the Pretender, I hear there has been great outrages
.at Edinburgh by his friends. His health was drunk
early in the morning in the Parliament Close j and
at night, when the magistrates were going through
the streets to keep th: peace, several were
taken up in disguise, and the King‘s health (ie.,
James VIII.) was drunk out of several windows,
and the glasses thrown over the windows when
the magistrates passed by, and many windows
were illuminated. At Leith there was a standard
:set upon the pier, with a thistle and Nemo me
imjune Zaessit, and J ‘R. VI11 ; and beneath,
Noe Abjuration. This stood a great part of the
-day.” Had the old historian lived till the close
.of the century or the beginning of the present,
he might have seen, as Chambers tells us, “Singing
Jamie Balfour ”-a noted convivialist, of whom
a portrait used to hang in the Leith Golf-housewith
other topers in the Parliament Close, all bareheaded,
on their knees, and hand-in-hand, around
.the statute of Charles II., chorusing vigorously,
“T. King s h d enjoy his own again.” Jamie
Balfour was well known to Sir Walter Scott.
About the year 1760 John’s coffee-house was
kept by a man named Oswald, whose son John,
born there, and better known under his assumed
name of Sylvester Otway, was one of the most
extraordinary characters of that century as a poet
.and politician. He served an apprenticeship to a
jeweller in the Close, till a relation left him a
legacy, with which he purchased a commission in
the Black Watch, and in 1780 he was the third
lieutenant in seniority in the 2nd battalion when
serving in India. Already master of Latin and
Greek, he then taught himself Arabic, and, quitting
the army in 1783, became a violent Radical, and
published in London a pamphlet on the British
Constitution, setting forth his views (crude as they
were) and principles. His amatory poems received
she dpprobation of Bums; and, after publishing
various farces, effusions, and fiery political papers,
he joined the French Revolutionists in 1792, when
his pamphlets obtained for him admission into
the Jacobite Club, and his experiences in the
qznd procured him command of a regiment composed
of the masses of Paris, with which he
marched against the royalists in La Vendie, on
which occasion his men mutinied, and shot him,
together with his two sons-whom, in the spirit of
quality, he had made drummers-and an English
Zentleman, who had the misfortune to be serving
in the same battalion.
John third Earl, of Bute, a statesman and a
patron of literature, who procured a pension for
Dr. Johnson, and who became so unpopular as
a minister through the attacks of Wilkes, was
born in the Parliament Close on the 25th of May,
1713.
Near to John’s coffee-house, and on the south
side ,of the Parliament Close, was the banking-house
of Sir William Forbes, Bart., who was born at Edinburgh
in 1739. He was favourably known as the
author of the “Life of Beattie,” and other works,
and as being one of the most benevolent and highspirited
of citizens. The bank was in reality established
by the father of Thomas Coutts, the eminent
London banker, and young Forbes, in October,
1753, was introduced to the former as an apprentice
for a term of seven years. He became a copartner
in 1761, and on the death of one of the
Messrs. Coutts, and retirement of another on
account of ill-health, while two others were settled
in London, a new company was formed, comprising
Sir William Forbes, Sir James Hunter Blair,
and Sir Robert Hemes, who, at first, carried on
business in the name of the old firm.
In 1773, however, Sir Robert formed a separate
establishment in London, when the name was
changed to Forbes, Hunter, and Co., of which
firm Sir William continued to be the head till his
death, in 1806.
Kin&id tells us that, when their first bankinghouse
was building, great quantities of human
bones-relics of St. Giles’s Churchyard-were dug
up, which were again buried at the south-east
corner, between the wall of the edifice and the
Parliament Stairs that led to the Cowgate; and
that, “ not many years ago, numbers were also dug
up in the Parliament Close, which were carefully
put in casks, and buried in the Greyfriars’ Churchyard”
In accordance with a longcherished desire of
restoring his family-which had been attainted for
loyalty to the house of StuartLSir William Forbes
embraced a favourable opportunity for purchasing ... to Forbes, Hunter, and Co., of which firm Sir William continued to be the head till his death, in ...

Vol. 1  p. 179 (Rel. 0.4)

Leith] MACKINTOSH OF BORLUM. 191
the further strengthened by the fact that the Speedy
Return, a Scottish ship, had been absent unusually
long, and the rumours regarding her fate were
very much akin to the confessions of the crew of
the Worcester.
A report of these circumstances having reached
the Privy Council, the arrest was ordered of Captain
Green and thirteen of his crew on charges of
piracy and murder. The evidence produced against
them would scarcely be held sufficient by a jury of
the present day to warrant a conviction; but the
Scots, in their justly inflamed and insulted spirit,
viewed the matter otherwise, and a sentence of
death was passed. This judgment rendered many
uneasy, as it might be an insuperable bar to the
union, and even lead to open strife, as the relations
in which the two countries stood to each other were
always precarious ; and even Macaulay admits “that
the two kingdoms could not possibly have continued
another year on the terms on which they had been
during the preceding century.” The Privy Council
were thus reluctant to put the sentence into execution,
and respited the fourteen Englishmen ; but
there arose from the people a cry for vengeance
which it was impossible to resist. On the day appointed
for the execution, the 11th of April, the
populace gathered h vast numbers at the. Cross
and in the Parliament Square ; they menaced the
Lords‘of the Council, from which the Lord Chancellor
chanced to pass in his coach. Some one
cried aloud that “ the prisoners had been reprieved.”
On this the fury of the people became boundless ;
they stopped at the Tron church the coach of the
Chancellor-the pitiful Far1 of Seafield-and
dragged him out of it, and had he not been rescued
and conveyed into Mylne Square by some friends,
would have slain him ; so, continues Arnot, it became
absolutely necessary to appease the enraged
multitude by the blood of the criminals. This was
but the fruit of the affairs of Darien and Glencoe.
Now the people for miles around were pouring
into the city, and it was known that beyond doubt
the luckless Englishmen would be tom from the
Tolbooth and put to a sudden death.
Thus the Council was compelled to yield, and
did so only in time, as thousands who had gathered
at Leith to see the execution were now adding to
those who filled the streets of the city, and at
eleven in the forenoon word came forth that three
would be hanged-namely, Captain Green, the first
mate Madder, and Simpson, the gunner.
According to Analecfu Scofica they were brought
forth into the seething masses, amid shouts and
execrations, under an escort of the Town Guard,
and marched on foot through the Canongate to the
Water Port of Leith, where a battalion of the Foot
Guards and a body of the Horse Guards were
drawn up. “ There was the greatest confluence of
people there that I ever saw in my life,” says
Wodrow; “for they cared not how far they were
off so be it they saw.”
The three were hanged upon a gibbet erected
within high-water mark, and the rest of the crew,
after being detained in prison till autumn, were set
at liberty; and it is said that there were afterwards
good reasons to believe that Captain Drummond,
whom they were accused of slaying on the high seas,
was alive in India after the fate of Green and his
two brother officers had been sealed. (Burton’s
‘’ Crim. Trials.”)
On the site of the present Custom House was
built the Fury (a line-of-battle ship, according tb
Lawson‘s “Gazetteer”) and the first of that rate
built in Scotland after the Union.
In I 7 I 2 the first census of Edinburgh and Leith
was taken, and both towns contained only about
48,000 souls.
The insurrection of 1715, under the Earl of
Mar, made Leith the arena of some exciting scenes.
The Earl declined to leave the vicinity of Perth
with his army, and could not co-operate with the
petty insurrection under Forster in the north of
England, as a fleet under Sir John Jennings, Admiral
of the White, including the RqaC Anm, Pew4
Phnix, Dover Custk, and other frigates, held the
Firth of Forth, and the King‘s troops under Argyle
were gathering in the southern Lowlands. But, as
it was essential that a detachment from Mar‘s army
should join General Forster, it was arranged that
2,500 Highlanders, under old Brigadier Mackintosh
of Borlum-one of the most gallant and resolute
spirits of the age-should attempt to elude the fleet
and reach the Lothians.
The brigadier took possession of all the boats
belonging to the numerous fisher villages on the
Fife coast, and as the gathering of such a fleet as
these, with the bustle of mooring and provisioning
them, was sure to reveal the object in view, a
clever trick was adopted to put all scouts on a false
scent.
All the boats not required by the brigadier he
sent to the neighbourhood of Burntisland, as if he
only waited to cross the Firth there, on which the
fleet left its anchorage and rather wantonly began
to cannonade the fort and craft in the harbour.
While the ships were thus fully occupied, Mackintosh,
dividing his troops in two columns, crossed the
water from Elie, Pittenweem, and Crail, twenty miles
eastward, on the nights of the 12th and 13thOctober,
without the loss of a single boat, and lwded ... admits “that the two kingdoms could not possibly have continued another year on the terms on which they had ...

Vol. 5  p. 191 (Rel. 0.4)

278 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street
Close was seized, and a battery erected on the
summit thereof to assail the King‘s men. In the
“Histone of James Sext” we are told that the
Regent Earl of Mar brought nine pieces of ordnance
up the Canongate to assail the Netherbow Port,
but changed their position to a fauxbourg of the
town, callit Pleasands, ” from whence to batter the
Flodden wall and to oppose a platform of guns
erected on the house of Adam Fullerton.
When this sharp but brief civil disorder ended,
Adam returned to his strong mansion in the Fountain
Close once more, and on the 4th of December,
1572, he and Mr. John Paterson appear together
as Commissaries for the city of Edinburgh, and
the supposition is, that the date, 1573, referred
to repairs upon the house, after what it had
suffered from the cannon of Mar. Thus, says
Wilson, “the nincit veritu of the brave old
burgher acquires a new force, when we consider
the circumstznces that dictated its inscription, and
the desperate struggle in which he had borne a
leading part, before he returned to carve these
pious aphorisms over the threshold that had so
recently been held by his enemies.”
With a view to enlarging the library of the
College of Physicians, in 1704, that body purchased
from Sir James Mackenzie his house and
ground at the foot of the Fountain Close. The
price paid was 3,500 rnerks (A194 8s. Iod.). To
this, in seven years afterwards, was added an
adjoining property, which connected it with the
Cowgate, “ then a genteel and busy thoroughfare,’’
and for which 2,300 merks (A127 15s. 6d.) were
given. From Edgar’s map it appears that the
premises thus acquired by the College of Physicians
were more extensive than those occupied
by any individual or any other public body in
the city. The ground was laid out in gardens
and shrubbery, and was an object of great admiration
and envy to the nobility and gentry, ta
several of whom the privilege of using the pleasure
grounds was accorded as a favour. Considering
the locality now, how strangely does all this
read !
The’whole of the buildings must have been in
a dilapidated, if not ruinous state, for expensive
repairs were found to be necessary on first taking
possession, and the same head of expenditure
constantly recurs in accounts of the treasurer 01
the College; and so early as 1711 a design was
pioposed for the erection of a new hall at the foot
of the Fountain Close ; and after nine years’ delay,
2,900 merks were borrowed, and a new building
erected, but it was sold in 1720 for E%oo, as a site
for the new Episcopal Chapel.
Till the erection of St. Paul’s in York Place, the
Fountain Close formed the only direct communication
to this the largest and most fashionable
Episcopal church in Edinburgh, that which was
built near the Cowgate Port in 1771.
Tweeddale’s Close, the next alley on the east,.
was the scene of a terrible crime, the memory of
which, though enacted so long ago as 1806, is still.
fresh in the city. The stately house which gave
its name to the Close, and was the town residence
of the Marquises of Tweeddale, still remains,
though the “ plantation of lime-trees behind it,”
mentioned by Defoe in his “ Tour,” and shown in
seven great rows on Edgais map, is a thing of
the past.
Even after the general desertion of Edinburgh
by the Scottish noblesse at the Union, this fine old
mansion (which, notwithstanding great changes,
still retains traces of magniticence) was for a time
the constant residence of the Tweeddale family.
It was first built and occupied by Dame Margaret
Kerr Lady Yester, daughter of Mark first Earl of
Lothian. She was born in 1572, and was wife of
James the seventh Lord Yester, in whose family
there occurred a singular event. His page, Hepburn,
accused his Master of the Horse of a design
to poison him; the latter denied it; the affair
was brought before the Council, who agreed that
it should be determined by single combat, in 1595,
and this is supposed to have been the last of such
judicial trials by battle in Scotland.
By Lady Yester, who founded the church that
still bears her name in the city, the mansion, with
all its furniture, was bestowed upon her grandson,
John second Earl of Tweeddale (and ninth Lord
Yester), who joined Charles I. when he unfurled
his standard at Nottingham in 1642. Six years
subsequently, when a Scottish army under the
Duke of Hamilton, was raised, to rescue Charles
from the English, the Earl, then Lord Yester, commanded
the East Lothian regiment of 1,200 men,
After the execution of Charles I. he continued
with the regal party in Scotland, assisted at the
coronation of Charles II., and against Crornwell
he defended his castle of Neidpath longer than any
place south of the Forth, except Borthwick. With
all this loyalty to his native princes, he came
early into the Revolution movement, and in 1692
was created, by William III., Marquis of Tweeddale,
with the office of Lord High Chancellor of
Scotland, and died five years afterwards.
The next occupant of the house, John, second
Marquis, received LI,OOO for his vote at the
Union, and was one of the first set of sixteen
representative peers. The last of the family who ... of 1,200 men, After the execution of Charles I. he continued with the regal party in Scotland, assisted at ...

Vol. 2  p. 278 (Rel. 0.4)

Leith.] THE BARTONS. 203
is the second of the name, who died in 1513,
John the senior was certainly dead in 1508.
Charles, Duke of Burgundy, was so incensed by
the capture of the Juliuna in Flemish waters that
he demanded the surrender of Pret and Velasquez
to himself, with due compensation to Barton, but
failed in both cases. Joam 111. was then King of
Portugal.
Robert Barton would seem also at one time to
have faHen into the hands of the Portuguese ; and
there is extant a letter sent by James IV. to the
Emperor Maximilian, requesting his influenCe to
have him released from prison, and therein the
king refers to the quarrel of 1476, and merely
states that old John Barton was thrown into a prison
also.
In 1506, at a tournament held by James IV. in
Stirling, we read of a blackamoor girl, captured
from the Portuguese by Captain Barton, seated in
a triumphal chariot, being adjudged the prize of
the victor knight ; but the Bartons sent other gifts
to the king, in the shape of casks full of pickled
Portuguese heads.
In 1498, when Perkin Warbecli and his wife, the
Lady Katharine Gordon, left Scotland for Flanders,
they were on board a ship which, Tytler says, was
commanded by and afterwards the property of the
celebrated Robert Barton. Amongst her stores,
noted in the “.Treasurefs Accounts,” are ‘‘ ten tuns
and four pipes of wine, 8 bolls of aitmele, 18 marts
of beef, 23 muttons, and a hogshead of herring.”
Andrew Barton, the brother of the captain (and,
like him, a merchant in Leith), is mentioned as
having furnished biscuit, cider, and beer, for the
voyage.
In 1508 this family continued their feud with the
Portuguese. In that year Letters of Marque were
granted to them by James IV., and they run thus,
according to the “Burgh Records of Edinburgh ” :-
“]~callus Dei Gratia Rex Scatorurn, deZectis semit
o d u s nosiris. John Barton and Robert Barton,
sons of our late beloved servant John Barton, shipmaster,
and other shipmasters our lieges and subjects,
in company of the said John Barton for the
time (greeting) :
“ Some pirates of the nation of Portugal attacked
a ship of our late illustrious ancestor (James HI.),
which, under God, the late John commanded, and
with a fleet of many ships compelled it to surrender,
robbed it of its merchandise, of very great
value, and stripped it of its armament On account
of which, our most serene father transmitted his complaint
to the King of Portugal.” Justice not having
been done, the document runs, Jarnes 111. decreed
Letters of Reprisal against the Portuguese. “ We,
moreover, following the footsteps of our dearly
beloved ancestor . . . . . concede and grant by
these presents to you, John and Robert aforesaid,
and our other subjects who shall be in your company
for the time, our Letters of Marque or Reprisai,
that you may receive and bring back to us
from any men whomsoever of the nation of Portugal,
on account of the justice aforesaid being.
desired, to the extent of 3,000 crowns of money
of France . . . . Givenunder our Privy Seal, &c.”
Under these letters the brothers put to sea in
the quaint argosies of those days, which had low
waists with towering poops and forecastles, and
captured many Portuguese ships, and doubtless
indemnified themselves remarkably well ; while
their elder brother, Andrew, an especial favourite
of James IV., who bestowed upon him the then
coveted honour of knighthood, “ for upholding
the Scottish flag upon the seas,” was despatched
to punish some Dutch or Flemish pirates who had
captured certain Scottish ships and destroyed theircrews
with great barbarity. These he captured,
with their vessel, and sent all their heads to LeitL
in a hogshead.
As is well known, he was killed fighting bravely
in the Downs on the 2nd August, 1511, after a
severe conflict with the ships of Sir Thomas and Sir.
Edward Howard, afterwards Lord High Admiral of
England, when he had only two vessels with him,
the Lion of 36 great guns, and a sloop name$ the.
Jenny. The Howards had three ships of war and
an armed collier. The Lion was afterwards added
to the English navy, as she was found to be only
second in size and armament to the famous Great
Harry. His grandson Charles married Susan
Stedman of Edinburgh, and from them are said tobe
descended nearly all of that name in Fife, Kinross,
and Holland.
For his services as Admiral on the West Coast,
John Barton received the lands of Dalfibble ; and
in April, 1513, he returned from a diplomatic mission
to France, accompanied by the Unicorn Pursuivant;
and so important was its nature that he
took horse, and rode all night to meet the king,
who was then on the eve of departing for Flodden.
On the 26th of July in the Same year he joined
the squadron, consisting of the Great Michael, the
James, Marguret, the S/$ of Lynne (an English
prize), a thirty-oared galley, and fourteen other
armed ships, commanded by Gordon of Letterfourie
(and having on board the Earl of Arran and
3,000 soldiers), which sailed from Leith as a present
to Anne, Queen of France-a piece of ill-timed
generosity on the part of the princely Jarnes IV.,
who accompanied the armament as far as the Isle ... cider, and beer, for the voyage. In 1508 this family continued their feud with the Portuguese. In that year ...

Vol. 6  p. 203 (Rel. 0.4)

High Street.] DR. CULLEN. 271 -
it jure tan‘io hyfotheca till he was paid the price
of it.”
The same house was, in the succeeding century,
occupied by Dr. William Cullen, the eminent
physician; while Lord Hailes lived in the more
ancient lodging in the south portion of the Mint,
prior to his removal to the modern house which
he built for himself in New Street, Canongate.
William Cullen was born in Lanarkshire, in
1710, and after passing in medicine at Glasgow,
made several voyages as surgeon of a merchantman
between London and the Antilles; but tiring of
thesea, he took a country practice at Hamilton,
and his luckily curing the duke of that name of an
illness, secured him a patronage for the future, and
after various changes, in 1756, on the death of Dr.
Plummer, he took the vacant chair of chemistry
in the University of Edinburgh. On the death
of Dr. Piston he succeeded him as lecturer in
materia medica, and three years afterwards resigned
the chair of chemistry to his own pupil,
Dr. Black, on being appointed professor of the
theory of medicine.
As a lecturer Dr. Cullen exercisedagreat influence
over the state of opinion relative to the science
of medicine, and successfully combated the specious
doctrines of Boerhaave depending on the
humoral pathology ; his own system was founded
on the enlarged view of the principles of Frederick
Hoffnian. The mere enumeration of his works on
medicine would fill a page, but most of them were
translated into nearly every European language.
. He continued his practice as a physician as well as
his medical lectures till a few months before his
death, when the infirmities of age induced him to
resign his professorship, and one of many addresses
he received on that occasion was the following :-
“ On the 8th of January, 1790, the Lord Provost,
magistrates, and Council of Edinburgh, voted a
piece of plate of fifty guineas of value to Dr. Cullen,
as a testimony of their respect for his distinguished
merits and abilities and his eminent services to the
university during the period of thirty-four years,
in which he has held an academical chair. On the
plate was engraved an inscription expressive of the
high sense the magistrates, as patrons of the university,
had of the merit of the Professor, and of
their esteem and regard.”
Most honourable to him also were the resolutions
passed on the 27th of January by the entire
Senatus Academicus ; but he did not survive those
honours long, as he died at his house in the Mint,
on the 5th of February, 1790, in his eightieth year.
By his wife-a Miss Johnston, who died there in
1786-he had a numerous family. One of his
sons, Robert, entered at the Scottish Bar in 1764,
and distinguishing himself highly as a lawyer, was
raised to the bench in 1796, as Lord Cullen. He
cultivated elegant literature, and contributed several
papers of acknowledged talent to the Mirror and
Lounger; but it was chiefly in the art of conversation
that he shone. When a young man, and
resident with his father in the Mint Close, he was
famous for his power of mimicry. He was very
intimate with Dr. Robertson, the historian, then
Principal of the university.
“TO show that Robertson was not likely to be
imitated it may be mentioned from the report of a
gentleman who has often heard him making public
orations, that when the students observed him pause
for a word, and would themselves mentally supply
it they invariably found that the word which he did
use was different from that which they had hit upon.
Cullen, however, could imitate him to the life, either
in the more formal speeches, or in his ordinary discourse.
He would often, in entering a house which
the Principal was in the habit of visiting, assume
his voice in the lobby and stair, and when arrived
at the drawing-room door, astonish the family by
turning out to be-Bob Cullen.”
On the west side of the Mint were at one time
the residences of Lord Belhaven, the Countess of
Stair, Douglas of Cavers, and other distinguished
tenants, including Andrew Pnngle, raised to the
bench, as Lord Haining, in I 7 29. The main entrance
to these lodgings, like that on the south, was by a
stately flight of steps and a great doorway, furnished
with an enormous knocker, and a beautiful example
of its ancient predecessor, the nsp, or Scottish
tirling-pin.
The Edinhqh Courant of August 12,1708, has
the following strange announcement :-
‘I George Williamson, translator (i.e. cobbler) in
Edinburgh, commonly known by the name of Bowed
Geordie, who swims on face, back, or any posture,
forwards or backwards, and performs all the antics
that any swimmer can do, is willing to attend any
gentlemen and to teach them to swim, or perform
his antics for their divertisement : is to be found at
Luckie Reid’s, at the foot of Gray’s Close, on the
south side of the street, Edinburgh.”
Elphinstone’s Court, in the close adjoining the
Mint, was so namedfrom Sir James Elphinstone, who
built it in 1679, and from whom the loftytenement
therein passed to Sir Francis Scott of Thirlstane.
The latter sold it to Patrick Wedderburn, who
assumed the title of Lord Chesterhall on his elevation
to the bench in 1755. His son, Alexander
Wedderburc, afterwards Lord Loughborough, first
Earl of Rosslyn, and Lord High Chancellor of ... into nearly every European language. . He continued his practice as a physician as well as his ...

Vol. 2  p. 271 (Rel. 0.4)

High Street.] MARY KINGS CLOSE 227
net tells us that he was a man of such unflagging
zeal that he barely allowed himself three hours’ sleep
out of the twenty-four. On the renewal of the
Covenant, in 1638, he and the celebrated Alexander
Henderson were appointed to revise and
adapt that national document to the circumstances
of the times; and at the memorable assembly
which met at Glasgow Johnston was unanimously
elected clerk, and was constituted Procurator for
the Church. ’ He took a prominent share in resisting
the unjust interference of Charles I: in Scottish
affairs, and in 1638, on the royal edict being proclaimed
from the Cross of Edinburgh, which set at
defiance the popular opposition to Episcopacy, he
boldly appeared on the scaffold erected near it,
and read aloud the famous protest drawn up in
the name of the Tables, while the mob compelled
the six royal heralds to remain while this counterdefiance
in the name of Scotland was being read
In 1641, when Charles visited Edinburgh for the
second time, Johnston was knighted and made a
Lord of Session, and after sitting in the Parliament
of Scotland in 1644, he attended, as one of the
Commissioners, the assembly of divines at Westminster.
In the following year he was Lord Advocate;
and in 1649 he performed one of his last
official duties, proclaiming Charles 11. King of
Scotland, on the 5th of February, 1650.
After the battle of Dunbar he was weak enough
to accept ofice under the Protectorate, as Clerk
Registrar; and after the death of Cromwell he
acted as one of the Committee of Public Safety,
when the feeble and timid Richard Cromwell withdrew
from public life ; and this last portion of his
career, together with the mode in which he had
prosecuted and persecuted the fallen Cavaliers, and
refused to concur in the treaty of Breda, sealed
his doom when the Restoration came. He was
forfeited in exile and condemned to death on the
15th of May, 1651.
An emissary of the Scottish ministry discovered
his retreat at Rouen, and, with the aid of the
French authorities, he was sent to the Tower, and
from thence to Edinburgh, where, with every mark
of indignity, he was publicly executed on the same
spot where, five-and-twenty years before, he had
defied the proclamation of Charles I. This was
on the n2nd of July, 1663, and he died with the
utmost constancy and Christian fortitude. And
now the busy establishment of one of the most
enterprising of Scottish publishing firms occupies
the site of the old mansion, in which he must many
a time have entertained such men as Alexander
Henderson, the Marquises Argyle, Rothes, and Callander,
the gallant Sir Alexander Leslie, the somewhat
double-dealing Monk, perhaps Cromwell too.
CHAPTER XXVI.
HIGH STREET (continued).
Mary King’s Close-Who was Mary ?-Scourged by the Plague of 1645-Its Mystery-Drummond‘s Epigram-Prof. Sinclair‘s ‘I Satan’s Invisible
World Discovered“--Mr. and Mrs. Coltheart’s Ghostly Visitors-The Clox finally abandoned to Goblins-Craig’s Close-Andro Hart,
Bookseller and Printer-Andro’s Spear-A Menagerie in Craig’s CIosc-The Isle of Man Arms--The Cape Club-Its Mysteries and O f f i c a ~
--Installation of a Knight-ProvinciaI Cape Clubs-The Poker Club-How it Originated-Members-Office-bearers-Old Stamp Office
Court-Fortune’s Tavern-The beautiful Countess of EgIinton-Her Patronage of Lettters-Her Family-Interview with Dr. Johnson-
Murderous Riot in the Close-Removal of the Stamp Office.
MARY KING’S Close was long a place of terror to
the superstitious, as one of the last retreats of the
desolating plague of 1645. “Who Mary King
was is now unknown, but though the alley is roofless
and ruined,” says one, writing of it in 1845,
“with weeds, wall-flowers, grass, and even little
trees, flourishing luxuriantly among the falling
walls, her name may still be seen painted on the
street corner.”
For some generations after the plague-in which
most of itsinhabitants perished-its houses remained
closed, and gradually it became a place of mystery
and horror, the abode of a thousand spectres and
nameless terrors, for superstition peopled it with
inhabitants, whom all feared and none cared to
succeed. “Those who had been foolhardy enough
to peep through the windows after nightfall saw
the spectres of the long-departed denizens engaged
in their wonted occupations ; headless forms danced
through the moonlit apartments ; on one occasion
a godly minister and two pious elders were scared
out of their senses by the terrible vision of a raw
head and blood-dripping arm, which protruded
from the wall in this terrible street, and flourished
a sword above their heads ; and many other terrors,
which are duly chronicled in ‘Satan’s Invisible
World;’” yet it was down this place that the wild
young Master of Gray dragged the fair Mistress
Carnegie, whom, sword in hand, he had abducted
from her father’s house at the head of twelve men-at ... Monk, perhaps Cromwell too. CHAPTER XXVI. HIGH STREET ( continued ). Mary King’s Close-Who was Mary ?-Scourged ...

Vol. 2  p. 227 (Rel. 0.4)

190 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Great Fire.
while the weather changed rapidly ; the wind,
accompanied by rain, came in fierce and fitful
gusts, thus adding to the danger and harrowing
interest of the scene, which, from the great size of
the houses, had much in it that was wild and weird.
“ About five o’clock,’’ says Dr. James Browne, in
his “ Historical Sketch of Edinburgh,” “the fire
had proceeded so far downwards in the building
occupied by the Coura~rf office, that the upper part
of the front fell inwards with a dreadful crash, the
concussion driving the flames into the middle of
the street. By this time it had communicated with
the houses on the east side of the Old Fish Market
Close, which it burned down in succession ; while
that occupied by Mr. Abraham Thomson, bookbindet,
which had been destroyed a few months
previously by fire and re-built, was crushed in at
one extremity by the fall of the gable. In the Old
Assembly Close it was still more destructive ; the
whole west side, terminating with the .king’s old
Stationery Warehouse, and including the Old Assembly
Hall, then occupied as a warehouse by
Bell and Bradfute, booksellers, being entirely consumed.
These back tenements formed one of the
most massive, and certainly not the least remarkable,
piles of building in the ancient city, and in
former times were inhabited by persons of the
greatest distinction. At this period they presented
a most extraordinary spectacle. A great
part of the southern Zand fell to the ground ; but a
lofty and insulated pile of side wall, broken in the
centre, rested in its fall, so as to form one-half of
an immense pointed arch, and remained for several
days in this inclined position.
“By nine o’clock the steeple of the Tron Church
was discovered to be on fire ; the pyramid became
a mass of flame, the lead of the roof poured over
the masonry in molten streams, and the bell fell
With a crash, as we have narrated, but the church
was chiefly saved by a powerful engine belonging
to the Board of Ordnance. The fire was now
stopped; but the horror and dismay of the people
increased when, at ten that night, a new one broke
forth in the devoted Parliament Square, in the attic
floor of a tenement eleven storeys in height, overlooking
the Cowgate. As this house was far to
windward of the other fire, it was quite impossible
that one could have caused the other-a conclusion
which forced itself upon the minds of all, together
with the startling belief that some desperate incendiaries
had resolved to destroy the city ; while
many went about exclaiming that it was a special
punishment sent from Heaven upon the people for
their sins.’’ (Browne, p. 220; Courant of Nov. 18,
1824; &c.)
As the conflagration spread, St. Giles’s and the
Parliament Square resounded with dreadful echoes,
and the scene became more and more appalling,
from the enormous altitude of the buildings; all
efforts of the people were directed to saving the
Parliament House and the Law Courts, and by
five on the morning of Wednesday the scene is
said to have been unspeakably grand and terrific.
Since the English invasion under Hertford in
1544 no such blaze had been seen in the ancient
city. “ Spicular columns of flame shot up majestically
into the atmosphere, which assumed a lurid,
dusky, reddish hue ; dismay, daring, suspense,
fear, sat upon different countenances, intensely
expressive of their various emotions ; the bronzed
faces of the firemen shone momentarily from under
their caps as their heads were raised at each successive
stroke of the engines ; and the very element
by which they attempted to extinguish the conflagration
seemed itself a stream of liquid fire. The
County Hall at one time appeared like a palace of
light ; and the venerable steeple of St. Giles’s reared
itself amid the bright flames like a spectre awakened
to behold the fall and ruin of the devoted city.”
Among those who particularly distinguished themselves
on this terrible occasion were the Lord President,
Charles Hope of Granton ; the Lord Justice
Clerk, Boyle of Shewalton ; the Lord Advocate,
Sir Williani Rae of St. Catherine’s ; the Solicitor-
General, John Hope; the Dean of Faculty ; and
Mr. (afterwards Lord) Cockburn, the well-known
memorialist of his own times.
The Lord Advocate would seem to have been
the most active, and worked for some time at one
of the engines playing on the central tenement at
the head of the Old Assembly Close, thus exerting
himself to save the house in which he first saw the
light. All distinction of rank being lost now in
one common and generous anxiety, one of Sir
Wiiliam’s fellow-labourers at the engine gave him a
hearty slap on the back, exclaiming, at the same
time, “ Wee1 dune, my lord !I’
On the morning of Wednesday, though showers
of sleet and hail fell, the fire continued to rage with
fury in Conn’s Close, to which it had been communicated
by flying embers ; but there the ravages
of this unprecedented and calamitous conflagration
ended. The extent of the mischief done exceeded
all former example. Fronting the High Street
there were destroyed four tenements of six storeys
each, besides the underground storeys ; in Conn’s
Close, two timber-fronted “ lands,” of great antiquity
; in the Old Assembly Close, four houses of
seven storeys each ; in Borthwick’s Close, six great
tenements ; in the Old Fish Market Close, four of ... Wednesday, though showers of sleet and hail fell, the fire continued to rage with fury in Conn’s Close, to ...

Vol. 1  p. 190 (Rel. 0.4)

Rase Street.] HUG0 ARNOT. ‘59
announced that Bailie Creech, of literary celebrity,
was about to lead Miss Burns of Rose Street ‘‘ to
the hymeneal altar.” In hiswrath, Creech threatened
an action against the editor, whose contradiction
made matters worse :-“ In a former number we
noticed the intended marriage between Bailie
Creech of Edinburgh and the beautiful Miss Bums
of the same place. We have now the authority of
that gentleman to say that the proposed marriage
is not to take place, matters having been otherwise
arranged, to the mutual satisfaction of both parties
and their respective friends.” After a few years of
unenviable notoriety, says the editor of *‘ Kay,”
Miss Burns fell into a decline, and died in 1792 at
Roslin, where a stone in the churchyard records
her name and the date of her demise.
In the same year of this squabble we find a
ball advertised in connection with the now unfashionable
locality of Rose Street, thus :-“ Mr.
Sealey (teacher of dancing) begs to acquaint his
friends and the public that his ball is iixed for the
20th of March next, and that in order to accommodate
his scholars in the New Town, he proposes
opening a school in Rose Street, Young’s Land,
opposite to the Physicians’ Hall, the 24th of that
month, where he intends to teach on Tuesdays
and Fridays from nine in the morning, and the
remainder of the week at his school in Foulis’s
Close, as formerly.” In 1796 we find among
its residents Sir Samuel Egerton Leigh, Knight, of
South Carolina, whose lady “ was safely delivered
of a son on Wednesday morning (16th March) at
her lodgings in Rose Street.”
Sir Samuel was the second son of Sir Egerton
high, His Majesty’s AttorneyGenerd for South
Carolina, and he died at Edinburgh in the ensuing
January. He had a sister, married to the youngest
brother of Sir Thomas Burnet of Leya
This son, born at Edinburgh in 1796, succeeded
in ISIS to the baronetcy, on the death of his uncle,
Sir Egerton, who married Theodosia (relict of
Captain John Donellan), daughter of Sir Edward,
and sister of Sir Theodosius Edward Boughton,
for the murder of whom by poison the captain was
executed at Warwick in 1781,
It was in Dr. John Brown’s Chapel in Rose
Street, that Robert Pollok, the well-known author
of “The Course of Time,” who was a licentiate of
the United Secession Church, preached his only
sermon, and soon after ordination he was attacked
by that pulmonary disease of which he died in
1827.
In 1810 No. 82 was “Mrs. Bruce’s fashionable
boarding-school,” and many persons of the greatest
respectability occupied the common stairs, particularly
to the westward ; and in Thistle Street were
many residents of very good position.
Thus No. z was the house, in 1784, of Sir
John Gordon, Bart. ; and Sir Alexander Don, Bart.,
of Newton Don, lived in No. 4, when Lady Don
Dowager resided in No. 53, George Street (he had
been one of the d h u s in France who were seized
when passing through it during the short peace of
1802), and a Mrs. Colonel Ross occupied No. 17,
Under the name of Hill Street this thoroughfare
is continued westward, between Fredenck Street
and Castle Street, all the houses being “selfcontained.”
The Right Hon. Charles Hope of
Granton, Lord Justice Clerk, had his chambers in
No. 6 (now writers’ offices) in ~808 ; Buchanan of
Auchintorlie lived in No. I I, and Clark of Comrie
in No. 9, now also legal offices. In one of the houses
here resided, and was married in 1822, as mentioned
in Bkrckwoad’s Magazine for that year, Charles
Edward Stuart, styled latterly Count d’Albany
(whose son, the Carlist colonel, married a daughter
of the Earl of Errol), and who, with his brother, John
Sobieski Stuarf attracted much attention in the city
and Scotland generally, between that period and
1847, and of whom various accounts have been
given. They gave themselves out as the grandsons
of Charles Edward Stuart, but were said to be
the sons of a Captain Thomas Allan, R.N., and
grandsons of Admiral John Carter Allan, who died
in 1800.
Seven broad and handsome streets, running south
and north, intersect the great parallelogram of the
New Town. It was at the corner of one of those
streets-but which we are not told-that Robert
Burns first saw, in 1787, Mrs. Graham, so celebrated
for her wonderful beauty, and whose husband
commanded in the Castle of Stirling.
From the summit of the ridge, where each of
these streets cross George Street, are commanded
superb views : on one side the old town, and on
the other the northern New Town, and away to the
hills of Fife and Kinross.
According to “ Peter Williamson’s Directory,”
Hugo Arnot, the historian, had taken up his abode
in the Meuse Lane of South St. Andrew Street
in 1784. His own name was Pollock, but he
changed it to Arnot on succeeding to the estate of
Balcormo, in Fifeshire. In his fifteenth year hC
became afflicted with asthma, and through life was
reduced to the attenuation of a skeleton. Admitted
an advocate in 1772, he ever took a deep interest
in all local matters, and published various essays
thereon, and his exertions in promoting the
improvements then in progress in Edinburgh were
which is now the New Town dispensary. c ... 17, Under the name of Hill Street this thoroughfare is continued westward, between Fredenck Street and Castle ...

Vol. 3  p. 159 (Rel. 0.4)

Lasswade.] CLERK OF ELDIN. 359
nishing supplies for local consumption and to
other quarters, Lasswade sends about 30,000 tons
of coal to Edinburgh every year.
Auchindinny is a small village situated on the
right bank of the Esk at the boundary with Penicuick,
and is about five-and-a-half miles distant
from Lasswade. It is inhabited by lace and paper
makers.
Scott, in his ballad “ The Gray Brother,” groups
all the localities we have noted with wonderful
effect :-
‘ I Sweet are the paths, oh passing sweet I
By Esk’s fair streams that run,
Impervious to the sun.
O’er airy steep, through copsewood deep,
“ There the rapt poet’s step may rove,
And yield the muse the day ;
There Beauty, led by timid Love,
May shuq the tell-tale ray.
“ From that fair dome, where suit is paid
By blast of bugle free,
To Auchindinny’s hazel shade,
And haunted Woodhouselee.
Who knows not Melville’s beechy grove,
Dalkeith, which all the virtues love,
And Roslin’s rocky glen,
And classic Hawthornden I
“Yet never path from day to day,
The pilgrim’s footsteps range,
To Burndale’s ruined grange.”
Save but’ the solitary way,
South of Lasswade Bridge, on the road to Polton
-an estate which, in the early part of the eighteenth
century, gave the title of Lord Polton to a senator
of the College of Justice, Sir William Calderwood,
called to the bench in I 71 I in succession to Lord
Anstruther-is a house into which a number 01
antique stones were built some years ago. One
of these, a lintel, bears the following date and
legend :-
‘ 1557. A. A. NOSCE TEIPSVM.
Lasswade has always been a favourite summe1
resort of the citizens of Edinburgh. Sir Walter
Scott spent some of the happiest summers of his
life here, and amid the woodland scenery is supposed
to have found materials for his description
of Gandercleugh, in the Tales of my Land.
lord.”
His house was a delightful retreat, embowered
among wood, and close to the Esk. There he
continued all his favourite studies, and commenced
that work which Erst established his name i-2 litera.
ture, “ The Minstrelsy of the Scottish %order,’
which he published at Edinburgh in 1802, and
_ _ _
dedicated to his friend and chief, Henry Duke of
Buccleuch.
In prosecuting the collection of this work, Sir
Walter made various excursions-“ raids ” he used
to call them-from Lasswade into the most remote
recesses of the Border glens, assisted by one or
two other enthusiasts in ballad lore, pre-eminent
among whom was the friend, whose ‘untimely fate
he lamented so long, and whose memory he embalmed
in verse-Dr. John Leyden.
De Quincey, the “ English opium-eater,” spent
the last seventeen years of his life in a humble
cottage near Midfield House, on the road from
Lasswade to Hawthornden, and there he prepared
the collected edition. of his works. He died in
Edinburgh on the 8th December, 1859.
On high ground above the village stands Eldin
House (overlooking Eldindean), the residence of
John Clerk, inventor of what was termed in its day,
before the introduction of ironclads and steam rams,
the modern British system of naval tactics. He
was the sixth son of Sir George Clerk of Penicuick,
oneof the Barons of Exchequer in Scotland, and
inherited the estate of Eldin in early life from his
father. Although the longest sail he ever enjoyed
was no farther than to the Isle of Arran, in the Firth
of Clyde, he had from his boyhood a passion for
nautical affairs, and devoted much of his time to
the theory and practice ot naval tactics.
After. communicating to some of his friends the
new suggested system of breaking an enemy’s line
of battle, he visited London in 1780, and conferred
with several eminent men connected with the navy,
among others, Mr. Richard Atkinson, the friend of
the future Lord Kodney, and Sir Charles Douglas,
Rodney’s ‘‘ Captain of the Fleet ” in the mernorable
action of 12th April, 1782, when the latter
was victorious over the Comte de Grasse between
Dominica and Les Saintes, in the West Indies.
Since that time his principle was said to have
been adopted by all our admirals ; and Howe, St.
Vincent, Duncan, and even Nelson, owe to the
Laird of Eldin’s manmuvre their most signal
victories.
In 1782 he had fifty copies of his “Essay on
Naval Tactics ” printed, for distribution among his
private friends. It was reprinted in 1790, and
second, third, and fourth parts were added in the
seven subsequent years, and eventually, in 1804,
the whole work was re-published anew, with a
preface explaining the origin of his discoveries.
“ Although Lord Rodney, as appears by a fragmentary
life of Clerk written by Professor Playfair,
in the ‘ Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh,’
never concealed in conversation his obliga ... embowered among wood, and close to the Esk. There he continued all his favourite studies, and commenced that ...

Vol. 6  p. 359 (Rel. 0.4)

I 88 OLD ANI) NEW EDINBURGH. [York Place
His lordship was so fond of card-playing that
he was wont to say, laughingly, “Cards are my
profession-the law my amusement.” He died
at Powrie, in Forfarshire, on the 19th of October,
18IL
In 1795 Sir Henry Raeburn built the large house
No. 32, the upper part of which had been lighted
from the roof and fitted up as a gallery for exhibiting
pictures, while. the lower was divided into convenient
painting rooms, but his residence was then
at Stockbridge.
Mr. Alexander Osborne, a commissioner of the
Board of Customs, resided in No. 40 for niany
years, and died there. He was of great stature,
and was the right-hand man of the Grenadiers of
the First Regiment of Royal Edinburgh Volunteers,
proverbially a battalion of tall men, and his personal
appearance was long familiar in the streets of
the city. In bulk he was remarkable as well as in
stature, his legs in particular being nearly as large
in circumference as the body of an ordinary person,
The editor of Kay mentions that shortly after the
volunteers had been embodied, Lord Melville preseqted
his gigantic countryman to George III.,
who on witnessing such a herculean specimen of
his loyal defenders in Scotland, was somewhat
excited and curious. ‘‘-4re all the Edinburgh
volunteers like you?” he asked, Osborne mistaking
the jocular construction of the question,
and supposing it referred to their status in society,
replied, “They are so, please your Majesty.”
‘‘ Astonishing !” exclaimed the King, lifting up his
hands in wonder.
In his youth he is said to have had a prodigious
appetite, being able to consume nine pounds of
steak at a meal. His father, who died at Aberdeen,
comptroller of the Customs in 1785, is said ta
have beena man of even more colossal proportions.
Mr. Osborne lived long in Richmond Street
prior to removing to York Place, where he died in
his 74th year.
During the early years of this century Lady Sinclair
of Murkle occupied No. 61, and at the same
time No. 47 was the residence of Alexandex
Nasmyth, landscape painter, father of Peter, who
won himself the name of “ the English Hobbima,JJ
and who, in fact, was the father of the Scottish school
of landscape painting. In his youth, the pupil of
Allan Ramsay, and afterwards of the best artists in
Rome and England, he returned to his native city,
Edinburgh, where he had been born in 1758 ; and
to his friendship with Bums the world is indebted
for the only authentic portrait which exists of our
national poet His compositions were chaste and
elegant, and his industry unceasing ; thus he numbered
among his early employers the chief of the
Scottish nobZesse. Most of the living landscape
painters of Scotland, and many of the dead ones,
have sprung from the school of Nasmyth, who, in
his extreme age, became an honorary member of
the then new Scottish Academy.
The firmness of his intellect, and the freshness of
his fancy continued uninterrupted to the end of his
labours; his last work was the touching little
picture called “ Going Home ;I’ and he died soon
after at Edinburgh in the eighty-third year of his
age, in 1840. He married a daughter of Sir James
Foulis, Bart., of Colinton and that ilk, by whom he
had a large family, all more or less inheriting the
genius of their father, particularly his son Peter,
who predeceased him at London in 1831, aged
forty-five years.
On the north side of York Place is St. Paul’s
Episcopal church, built in that style of Gothic
which prevailed in the time of Henry VI. of England,
and of which the best specimen may be seen
in King’s College, Cambridge. The building consists
of a nave with four octagon towers at the
angles, with north and south aisles. The pulpit is
at the east end, and immediately before the communion-
table. The organ is at the west end, and
above the main entrance, which faces York Lanea
remnant of Broughton Loan. In the north-west
angle of the edifice is the vestry, The length of
the church is about 123 feet by 73 feet, external
measurement. The nave is 109 feet 9 inches in
length by 26 feet broad, and 46 feet in height; and
the aisles are 79 feet long by zg feet in height.
The ceiling of the nave is a flat Gothic arch,
covered with ornamental tracery, as are also the
ceilings of the aisles. The great eastern window
is beautifully filled in with stained glass by Egginton
of Birmingham. This handsome church-in its
time the best example of Gothic erected in Edinburgh
since the Reformation-was built from a design
by Archibald Elliot, and doesconsiderablecredit
to the taste and geqius of that eminent architect.
It was begun in February, 1816, and finished in
June, 1818, for the use of the congregation which
had previously occupied the great church in the
Cowgate, and who contributed ~ 1 2 , o o o for its
erection. The well-known Archibald Alison, author
of (‘ Essays on Taste,” and father of the historian
of Europe, long officiated here. He was the son
of a magistrate of the city of Edinburgh, where he
was born in 1757, but graduated at Oxford; and
on the invitation of Sir William Forbes and others,
in 1800, became senior incumbent of the Cowgate
chapel. After the removal of the congregation to
* ... of his intellect, and the freshness of his fancy continued uninterrupted to the end of his labours; his ...

Vol. 3  p. 188 (Rel. 0.4)

Rothesay might be baptised in Protestant form,
The queen only replied by placing the child in
his arms. Then the aged minister knelt down, and
prayed long and fervently for his happiness and
prosperity, an event which so touched the tender
Mary that she burst into tears; however, the
prince was baptised according to the Roman ritual
at Stirling on the 5th of December.
The birth of a son produced little change in
Damley’s licentious life. He perished as history
records ; and on Bothwell’s flight after Carberry,
and Mary‘s captivity in Lochleven, the Regent
Moray resolved by force or fraud to get all the
fortresses into his possession. Sir James Balfour,
a minion of Bothwell’s-the keeper of the famous
silver casket containing the pretended letters and
sonnets of Mary-surrendered that of Edinburgh,
bribed by lands and money as he marched out, and
the celebrated Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange was
appointed governor in his place. That night the
fated Regent Moray entered with his friends, and
slept in the same little apartment wherein, a year before,
his sister had been delivered of the infant now
proclaimed as James VI. ; but instead of keepin& his
promise to Balfour, Moray treacherously made him
a prisoner of state in the Castle of St. Andrews.
CHAPTER VI.
EDIXBURGH C A S T L E - ( C O ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ) .
The Siege of 157yThe City Bombarded from the Castle-Elizabeth’s Spy-Drury’s Dispositions for the Siege-Execution of Kirkaldy
-Repair of the Roins-Execution of Morton-Visit of Charles I.-Procession to Holyrood-Coronation of Charles 1.-The Struggle
against Episcopacy-Siege of 16p-The Spectre Drummer-Besieged by Cromwell-Under the Protector-The Restoration-The Argyles
-The Accession of James VIJ -Sentence of the Earl of Argyl-His clever Escape-Imprisoned four years latu-The Last Sleep oC
Argyle-His Death-Torture of Covenanters-Proclamation of William and Mary-lle Siege of 168g-Interview between Gordoe
and Dundee-The Castle invested-Brilliant Defence-Capitulation of the Duke of Gordon-The Spectre of Ckverhouse. J
MARY escaped from Lochleven on the and of May,
1568, and after her defeat fled to England, the
last country in Europe, as events showed, wherein
she should have sought refuge or hospitality.
After the assassination of the Regent Moray, to
his successor, the Regent Morton, fell the task of
subduing all who lingered in arms for the exiled
queen ; and so well did he succeed in this, that,
save the eleven acres covered by the Castle rock
of Edinburgh, which was held for three years by
Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange with a garrison
resolute as himself, the whole country was now
under his rule.
Kirkaldy, whose services in France and elsewhere
had won him the high reputation of being
“ the bravest soldier in Europe,” left nothing undone,
amid the unsettled state of affairs, to
strengthen his .post. He raised and trained soldiers
without opposition, seized all the provisions that
were brought into Leith, and garrisoned St. Giles’s
church, into the open spire of which he swung
up cannon to keep the citizens in awe. This was
on the 28th of March, 1571. After the Duke of
Chatelherault, with his Hamiltons-all queen’s men
-marched in on the 1st of May, the gables of
the church were loopholed for arquebuses. Immediate
means were taken to defend the town
against the Regent. Troops crowded into it; others
were niustered for its protection, and this state
of affairs continued for fully three years, during
which Kirkaldy baffled the efforts of four successive
Regents, till Morton was fain to seek aid
from Elizabeth, to wrench from her helpless refugee
the last strength that remained to her ; and most
readily did the English queen agree thereto.
A truce which had been made between ’Morton
and Kirkaldy expired on the 1st of January, 1573,
and as the church bells tolled six in the morning, the
Castle guns, among which were two &?-pounders,
French battardes, and English‘ culverins’ or 18-
pounders (according to the :‘ Memoirs ofKirkaldy”),
opened on the city in the dark. It was then full
of adherents of James VI., so Kirkaldy cared not
where his shot fell, after the warning gun had been
previously discharged, that all loyal subjects of
the queen should retire. As the ‘grey winter dawn
stole in, over spire and pointed roof, the cannonade
was chiefly directed from the eastern curtain
against the new Fisli Market ; the baikets in
which were beaten so high in the air, that for days
after their contents were seen scattered on the tops
of the highest houses. In one place a single shot
killed five persons and wounded twenty others.
Selecting a night when the wind was high and
blowing eastward, Kirkaldy made a sally, and set
on fire all the thatched houses in West Port and
Castle Wynd, cannonading the while the unfortunates
who strove to quench the flames that rolled
away towards the east. In March Kirkaldy resolutely
declined to come to terms with Morton, though
earnestly besought to do so by Henry Killigrew,
who came ostensibly as an English envoy, but in ... niustered for its protection, and this state of affairs continued for fully three years, during which ...

Vol. 1  p. 47 (Rel. 0.4)

238 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
-to hir lovite suitore, Johne Chisholme, his airis and
. assignais, all and hailk hir lands callit the King’s
Werk in Leith, within the boundis specifit in the
infeftment maid to him thairupon, quhilkis than
-war alluterlie decayit, and sensyne are reparit and
re-edifit, he the said Johne Chisholnie, to the policy
.and great decoration of this realme, in that office,
place, and sight of all strangeris and utheris re-
- sortand to the Schore of Leith.”
In 1575 it had been converted into a hospital
- for the plague-stricken ; but when granted to Bernard
Lindsay in 1613, he was empowered to keep
four taverns in the buildings, together with the
tennis-court, for the then favourite pastime of
‘catchpel. It continued to be used for that purpose
till the year 1649, when it was taken pos-
2 session of by the magistrates of Edinburgh, and
. converted into a weigh-house.
“ In what part of the building Bemard Lindsay
commenced tavern-keeping we are unable to say,”
observes Campbell, in his “ History of Leith,” “ but
.are more than half disposed to believe it was that
old house which projects into Bernard Street, and
is situated nearly opposife the British Linen Com-
,pany’s Bank.” ‘‘ The house alluded to,” adds
Robertson on this, “has a carved stone in front,
representing a rainbow rising from the clouds, with
a date 165-, the last figure being obliterated, and
-can hatre no reference to Bernard Lindsay.”
The tennis-court of the latter would seem to have
been frequently patronised by the great Marquis of
Montrose in his youth, as in his ‘‘ Household Accounts,”
under date 1627, are the following entries
.(Mait. Club Edit.) :-
‘‘ Item to the poor, my Lord taking coch . . qs.
Item, carrying the graith to Leth . . . . 8s.
Item, to some poor there . . . . . . 3s
Item, to my Lord Nepar’s cochman . .
Item, for balls in the Tinnes Court of Leth..
. . 6s. Sd.
16s.”
The first memorial of Bernard Lindsay is in
the Parish Records ” of South Leith, and is dated
17th July, 1589 :-“ The quhilk days comperit
up Bemard Lindsay and Barbara Logan, and gave
their names to be proclamit and mareit, within
this date and Michaelmas.-JoHN LOGANE, Cautioper.”
Another record, 2nnd September, I 633, bears
that the Session “ allowis burial to Barbara Logane,
-.elict of Bernard Lindsaye, besyde her husbande in
the kirk-yeard, in contentation yairof, 100 merks to
be given to the poor.”
From Bernard Lindsay, the name of the present
Bernard Street is derived. Bernard’s Nook has
long been known. ‘‘ In the ‘ Council Records’ of
Edinburgh, 1647,” says Robertson, “is the following
entry :-‘ To the purchase of the Kingis Werk,
in Leith, 4,500 lib. Scot.’ A previous entry, 1627,
refers to dealing with the sons of Bernard Lindsay,
‘for their house in Leith to be a custom-house. . . .’
We have no record that any buildings existed beyond
the bounds of the walls or the present
Bernard Street at this time, the earliest dates on
the seaward part of the Shore being 1674-1681.”
The old Weigh-house, or Tron of Leith, stood
within Bernard’s Nook, on the west side of the
street ; but local, though unsupported, tradition
asserts that the original signal-tower and lighthouse
of Leith stood in the Broad Wynd.
Wilson thus refers to the relic of the Wark
already mentioned :-‘‘ A large stone panel, which
bore the date 1650-the year immediately succeeding
the appropriation of the King‘s Wark to
civic purposes-appeared in the north gable of the
old weigh-house, which till recently occupied its
site, with the curious device of a rainbow carved
in bold relief springing at either end from a bank
of clouds.”
“ So,” says Arnot, ‘‘ this fabric, which was reared
for the sports and recreations of a Court, was
speedily to be the scene of the ignoble labours of
carmen and porters, engaged in the drudgery of
weighing hemp and of iron.”
Eastward of the King’s Wark, between Bernard‘s
Street and chapel, lies the locality once so curiously
designated Little London, and which, according to
Kincaid, measured ninety feet from east to west,
by seventy-five broad over the walls. “ How it
acquired the name of Little London is now
unknown,” says Camphell, in his “ History ” ;
“but it was so-called in the year 1674, We do
not see, however,” he absurdly remarks, “that it
could have obtained this appellation from any
other circumstauce than its having had some
real or supposed resemblance to the [English]
metropolis.”
As the views preserved of Little London show it
to have consisted of only four houses or so, and
these of two storeys high, connected by a dead
wall with one doorway, facing Bemard Street in
1800, Campbell’s theory is untenable. It is much
more probable that it derived its name from being
the quarters or cantonments of those 1,500 English
soldiers who, under Sir Williani Drury, Marshal of
Berwick, came from England in April, 1573, to
assist the Regent Morton’s Scottish Companies in
the reduction of Edinburgh Castle. These men
departed from Leith on the 16th of the following
June, and it has been supposed that a few of them
may have been induced to remain, and the locality
thus won the name of Little London, in the same ... for the then favourite pastime of ‘catchpel. It continued to be used for that purpose till the year ...

Vol. 6  p. 238 (Rel. 0.4)

132 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [West Church.
the 27th October, 1592, by ‘(the hail1 elderes, deacones,
and honest men of ye parochin . . . .
quha hes agreit, all in ane voice, that in all tymes
coming, thair be ane preaching everie Thursday,
and that it begin at nyne hours in ye morning, and
ye officer of ye kirk to gang with ye bell at aught
hours betwixt the Bow Fut and the Toun-end.”
This Thursday sermon was kept up until the middle
of the eighteenth century. The ‘‘ toun-end ” is
supposed to mean Fountain Bridge, sometimes of
old called the Causeway-end.
. In 1589 the Kirk Session ordained that none in
the parish should have ‘‘ yair bairnes ” baptised,
admitted to mamage, repentance, or alms, but
those who could repeat the Lord‘s Prayer, the
Belief, and the Commandments, and “gif ane
compt yair of, quhen yai ar examinet, and yis to be
publishit in ye polpete.” In the following year a
copy of the Confession of Faith and the National
Covenant was subscribed by the whole parish.
From the proximity of the church to the castle,
in the frequent sieges sustained by the latter, the
former suffered considerably, particularly after the
invention of artillery. At the Reformation it had
a roof of thatch, probably replacing a former one
of stone. The thatch was renewed in 1590, and
new windows and a loft were introduced; two
parts of the expense were borne by the parish, the
other by Adam, Bishop of Orkney, a taxation
which he vehemently contested. Among other
additions to the church was “a pillar for adulterers,”
built by John Howieson and John Gaims in August,
1591. The thatch was removedand theroof slated.
In 1594 a manse adjoining the church was built
for Mr. Robert Pont, on the ‘site of the present
one, into which is inserted an ancient fragment of
the former, inscribed-
RELIGIOXI ET POSTERIS
IN MINISTERIO.
S.R. P. G. A. 1594
The burying-ground in those days was confined
to the rising slope south-west of the church, and
as “ nolt, horse, and scheipe ” were in the habit
of grazing there, the wall being in ruins, it was
repaired in 1597. The beadle preceded all funerals
with a hand-bell-a practice continued in the
eighteenth century.
-In consequence of the advanced age of Messrs.
Pont and Aird, a third minister, hlr. Richard
Dickson, was appointed to the parish in May, 1600,
and in 1606 communion was given on three successive
Sundays. On the 8th of May that year the
venerable Mr. Pont passed from the scene of his
labours,and is supposed to have been interred within
the church. To his memory a stone was erected,
which, when the present edifice was built, was removed
to the Rev. Mr. Williamson’s tomb on the
high ground, in which position it yet remains.
His colleague, Mr. Aircl, survived hini but a few
months, and their succkssors, Messrs. Dickson and
Arthur, became embroiled with the Assembly in
16 I 9 for celebrating communion to the people
seated at a table, preventing them from kneeling,
as superstitious and idolatrous. Mr. Dickson was
ordered “to enter his person in ward within the
Castle of Dumbarton,” and .Mr. Arthur to give
communion to the people on their knees ; but he
and the people declined to “‘comply with a practice
so nearly allied to popery.” Mr. Dickson was
expelled in 1620, but Mr. Arthur was permitted to
remain. Among those who were sitters in the
church at this time were Williani Napier, of the
Wrytes house, and his more illustrious kinsman,
John Napier, of Merchiston, the inventor of logarithms,
whose “dasks,” or seats, seem to have
been close together.
The old church, like that of Duddingstone, was
furnished with iron jougs, in which it appears that
Margaret Dalgleish was compelled to figure on the
23rd of April, 1612, for her scandalous behaviour;
and in 1622, John Reid, “poltriman,” was publicly
rebuked in church for plucking “geiss upon the
Lord his Sabbath, in tyme of sermon.”
We are told in the “ History of the West Church,”
that “ in 1622 it was deemed proper to have a bell
hung in the stekple, if the old ruinous fabric which
stood between the old and new kirks might be so
called,” for a new church had been added at the
close of the sixteenth century. In 1618 new communion
cups of silver were procured. “They were
then of a very peculiar shape, being six inches in
height, gilt, and beautifully chased; but the cup
itself, which was plated, was only two inches
deep and twenty-four in circumference, not unlike
a small soupplate affixed to the stalk of a candlestick.
On the bottom was engraved the following
sentence :-I wiz fa& flse COVJ of saZvafimnc and caZ
@one fhe name of fh b ~ d I I 6 PsZm. I 6 I 9 ; and
around the rim of the cup these words :-Fw fire
Vmf Kirk ovfvith EdinhrgAe.”
The year 1650 saw the church again imperilled
by war. Its records bear, on the 28th July in that
year, that “ No sessione was keiped in the monthe
of August, because there lay ane companie at the
church,” the seats of which had been destroyed
and the sessioners dispersed, partly by the army
of Cromwell, which lay on the south side of the
parish, and that of the Scots, which lay on the
north; and on the 13th of that month, after
Cromwell’s retreat to Dunbar, the commission of ... preceded all funerals with a hand-bell-a practice continued in the eighteenth century. -In consequence of ...

Vol. 3  p. 132 (Rel. 0.4)

Leith Walk.] ANDREW MACDONALD. J 59
in whose favour, so long as she exercised her profession,
she continued to hold the first place in
spite of their temporary enthusiasm for the great
London stars, who visited them at stated seasons.
‘ Our Mrs. Siddons’ I frequently heard her called
in Edinburgh, not at all with the idea of comparing
her with the celebrated mother-in-law j but rather
as expressing the kindly personal goodwill with
which she was regarded by her own townsfolk who
were proud and fond of her.”
She was not a great actress, according to this
writer, for she lacked versatility, or power of assumption
in any part that was opposed to her nature
or out of her power, and she was destitute
of physical strength and weight for Shaksperian
heroines generally; yet Rosalind, Viola, Imogen,
and Label, had no sweeter exponents ; and in all
pieces that turned on the tender, soft, and faithful
Mary Stuart,“she gave an unrivalled impersonation.”
On leaving Edinburgh, after 1830, she carried
with her the good wishes of the entire people, “ for
they had recognised in her not merely the accomplished
actress, but the good mother, the refined
lady, and the irreproachable member of society.”
Northward of Windsor Street, in what was once
a narrow, pleasant, and secluded path between
thick hedgerows, called the Lovers’ Loan, was
built, in 1876, at a short distance from the railway
station, the Leith Walk public school, at a cost of
L9,ooo; it is in the Decorated Collegiate style,
calculated to accommodate about 840 scholars, and
is a good specimen of the Edinburgh Board schools.
In the Lovers’ Loan Greenside House was long
the property and the summer residence of James
Marshal, W.S., whose town residence was in Milne
Square, so limited were the ideas of locomotion
and exaggerated those of distance in the last century.
He was born in 1731, says Kay’s Editor,
and though an acute man of business, was one of
the most profound swearers of his day, so much so
that few could compete with him.” He died in the
then sequestered house of Greenside in 1807.
In the year 1802 the ground here was occupied
by Barker’s “ famous panorama,” from Leicester
Square, London, wherein were exhibited views of
Dover, the Downs, and the coast of France, with
the embarkation of troops, horse and foot, from ten
till dusk, at one shilling a head, opposite the
Botanical Garden.
Lower down, where we now find Albert, Falshaw,
and Buchanan Streets, the ground for more
than twenty years was a garden nursery, long the
feu of Messrs. Eagle and Henderson, some of whose
advertisements as seedsfnen go back to nearly the
middle of the last century.
At the foot of the Walk there was born, in 1755,
Andrew Macdonald, an ingenious but unfortunate
dramatic and miscellaneous writer, whose father,
George Donald, was a market-gardener there. He
received the rudiments of his education in the
Leith High School, and early indicated such literary
talents, that his friends had sanguine hopes
of his future eminence, and with a view to his
becoming a minister of the Scottish Episcopal
communion he studied at the University of Edinburgh,
where he remained till the year 1775, when
he was put into deacon’s orders by Bishop Forbes
of Leith. On this account, at the suggestion of the
latter, he prefixed the syllable Mac to his name.
As there was no living for him vacant, he left his
father’s cottage in Leith Walk to become a tutor
in the family of Oliphant of Gask, after which he
became pastor of an Episcopal congregation in
Glasgow, and in 1772 published “Velina, a Poetical
Fragment,” which is said to have contained
much genuine poetry, and was in the Spenserian
stanza.
His next essay was ‘‘ The Independent,” which
won him neither profit nor reputation ; but having
written “Vimonda, a Tragedy,” with a prologue
by Henry Mackenzie, he came to Edinburgh, where
it was put upon the boards, and where he vainly
hoped to make’ a living by his pen. It was received
with great applause, but won him no advantage,
as his literary friends now deserted him.
Before leaving Glasgow he had taken a step which
they deemed alike imprudent and degrading.
“This was his marrying the maid-servant of the
house in which he lodged. His reception, therefore,
on his return to Edinburgh from these friends
and those of his acquaintances who participated in
their feelings, had in it much to annoy and distress
him, although no charge could be brought against
the humble partner of his fortunes but the meanness
of her condition.” Thus his literary prospects,
so far as regarded Edinburgh, ended in total disappointment
; so, accompanied by his wife, he betook
him to the greater centre of London.
There the fame of “Vimonda” had preceded
him, and Colman brought it out with splendour to
crowded houses in the years 1787 and 1788; and
now poor Macdonald’s mind became radiant with
hope of affluence and fame, and he had a pretty
little residence at Brompton, then a sequestered
place.
He next engaged with much ardour upon an
opera, but made his subsistence chiefly by writing
satirical papers and poems for the newspapers,
under the signature of “Mathew Bramble.” At
last this resource failed him, and he found himself
* ... favour, so long as she exercised her profession, she continued to hold the first place in spite of their ...

Vol. 5  p. 159 (Rel. 0.4)

222 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street
On becoming provost, he was easily led by his
religious persuasion to become a sort of voluntary
exchequer for the friends of the National Covenant,
and in 1641 he advanced to them IOO,OOO merks
to save them from the necessity of disbanding their
army; and when the Scottish Parliament in the
same year levied 10,000 men for the protection of
their colony in Ulster, they could not have embarked
had they not been provisioned at the expense
of Sir William Dick. Scott, in the “ Heart
of Midlothian,” alludes to the loans of the Scottish
Crcesus thus, when he makes Davie Deans say,
“My father saw them toom the sacks of dollars
out 0’ Provost Dick‘s window intil the carts that
carried them to the army at Dunse Law; and if
ye winna believe his testimony, there is the window
itself still standing in the Luckenbooths, five doors
aboon the Advocates’ Close-I think it is a claithmerchant’s
the day.”
And singular to say, a cloth merchant’s “booth ”
it continued long to be. ‘
In 1642 the Customs were let to Sir William
Dick for zoz,ooo merks, and 5,000 merks of
gassum, or “ entrense siller;” but, as he had a
horror of Cromwell and the Independents, he advanced
~20,000 for the service of King Charlesa
step by which he kindled the wrath of the prevailing
party; and, after squandering his treasure
in a failing cause, he was so heavily.mulcted by
extortion of L65,ooo and other merciless penalties,
that his vast fortune passed speedily away, and he
died in 1655, a prisoner of Cromwell’s, in a gaol at
Westminster, under something painfully like a want
of the common necessaries of life.
He and Sir William Gray were the first men of
Edinburgh who really won the position of merchant
princes. The changeful fortunes of the former are
commemorated in a scarce folio pamphlet, entitled
“The Lamentable State of the Deceased Sir William
Dick,” and containing .several engravings.
One represents him on horseback, escorted by halberdiers,
as Lord Provost of Edinburgh, and superintending
the unloading of a great vessel at Leith ;
a second represents him in the hands of bailiffs;
and a third lying dead in prison. “The tract is
highly esteemed by collectors of prints,” says Sir
Walter Scott, in a note to the “Heart of Midlothian.”
“The only copy I ever saw upon sale
was rated at L30.”
Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees (a place now
called Moredun, in the parish of Liberton) who
was Lord Advocate of Scotland from 1692 until
his death in 1713, a few months only excepted,
gave a name to the next narrow and gloomy
alley, Advocates’ Close, which bounded on the
east the venerable mansion of the Lords Holyroodhouse.
His father was provost of the city when Cromwell
paid his first peaceful visit thereto in 1648-9,
and again in 1658-9, at the close of the Protectorate,
The house in which he lived and died
was at the foot of the close, on the west side,
before descending a flight of steps that served te ;
lessen the abruptness of the descent. He had
returned from exile on the landing of the Prince of ,
Orange, and, as an active revolutionist, was detested
by the Jacobites, who ridiculed him as /amc
Wyhe in many a bitter pasquil. He died in 1713,
and Wodrow records that “ so great was the crowd
(at his funeral) that the magistrates were at the
grave in the Greyfriars’ Churchyard before the
corpse was taken out of the house at the foot of
the Advocates’ Close.”
In 1769 his grandson sold the house to David
Dalrymple, afterwards Lord Westhall, who resided
in it till nearly the time of his death in 1784.
This close was a very fashionable one in the days
of Queen Anne, and was ever a favourite locality
with members of the bar. Among many others,
there resided Andrew Crosbie, the famous original
of Scott’s “Counsellor Pleydell,” an old lawyer
who was one of the few that was able to stand his.
ground in any argument or war of words with Dr.
Johnson during that visit when he made himself
so obnoxious in Edinburgh. From this dark and
steep alley, with its picturesque overhanging
gables and timber projections, Mr. Crosbie afterwards
removed to a handsome house erected by
him in St. Andrew’s Square, ornamented with lofty,
half-sunk Ionic columns and a most ornate attic
storey (on the north side of the present Royal
Bank), afterwards a fashionable hotel, long known
as Douglas’s and then as Slaney’s, where even
royalty has more than once found quarters. By
the failure of the Ayr Bank he was compelled to
leave his new habitation, and’died in 1784 in such
poverty that his widow owed her whole support to
a pension of A50 granted to her by the Faculty of
Advocates.
The house lowest down the close, and immediately
opposite that of Sir James Stewart of
Goodtrees, was the residence of an artist of some
note in his time, John Scougal, who painted the
well-known portrait of George Heriot, which hangs
in the council room of the hospital. He was a
cousin of that eminent divine Patrick Scougal,
parson of Saltoun in East Lothian and Bishop of
Aberdeen in 1664.
John Scougall added an upper storey to the old
land in the Advocates’ Close, and fitted up one of ... singular to say, a cloth merchant’s “booth ” it continued long to be. ‘ In 1642 the Customs were let ...

Vol. 2  p. 222 (Rel. 0.4)

206 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Ainslie Place.
To the philosopher we have already referred in
our account of Lothian Hut, in the Horse Wynd.
In 1792 he published the first volume of the
“Philosophy of the Human Mind,” and in the
following year he read before the Royal Society of
Edinburgh his account of the life and writings of
Adam Smith.; and his other works are too wellknown
to need enumeration here. On the death
of his wife, in 1787, he married Helen D’Arcy
Cranstoun, daughter of the Hon. George Cranstoun,
who, it is said, was his equal in intellect, if
superior in blood. She was the sister of the
Countess Purgstall (the subject of Basil Hall’s
“ Schloss Hainfeldt ”) and of Lord Corehouse, the
tiiend of Sir Walter Scott.
Though the least beautiful of a family iq which
beauty is hereditary, she had (according to the
Quarter& Review, No. 133) the best essence of
beauty, expression, a bright eye beaming with intelligence,
a manner the most distinguished, yet
soft, feminine, and singularly winning. On her illfavoured
Professor she doted with a love-match
devotion; to his studies and night lucubrations
she sacrificed her health and rest; she was his
amanuensis and corrector at a time when he was
singularly fortunate in his pupils, who never forgot
the charm of her presence, the instruction they
won, and the society they enjoyed, in the house of
Dugald Stewart Among these were the Lords
Dudley, Lansdowne, Palmerston, Kinnaird, and
Ashburton. In all his after-life he maintained a
good fellowship with them, and, in 1806, obtained
the sinecure office of Gazefie writer for Scotland,
with A600 per annum.
Her talent, wit, and beautymade the wife of the
Professor one of the most attractive women in the
city. ‘( No wonder, therefore,” says the Quarfero,
“that her saloons were the resort of all that was
the best of Edinburgh, the house to which strangers
most eagerly sought introduction. In her Lord
Dudley found indeed a friend, she was to him in
the place of a mother. His respect for her was
unbounded, and continued to the close; often
have we seen him, when she was stricken in years,
seated near her for whole evenings, clasping her
hand in both of his. Into her faithful ear he
poured his hopes and his fears, and unbosomed his
inner soul ; and with her he maintained a constant
correspondence to the last.”
Her marriage with the Professor came about in a
singular manner. When Miss Cranstoun, she had
written a poem, which was accidentally shown by
her cousin, the Earl of Lothian, to Dugald Stewart,
then his private tutor, and unknown to fame ; and
‘he was so enraptured with it, and so warm in his
commendations, that the authoress and her critic
fell in love by a species of second-sight, before their
first interview, and in due time were made one.
Dugald Stewart died at his house in Ainslie
Place, on Wednesday, the 11th June, 1828, after a
short but painful illness, when in the seventy-fifth
year of his age, having been born in the old College
of Edinburgh in 1753, when his father was professor
of mathematics. His long life had been
devoted to literature and science. He had acquired
a vast amount of information, profound as it was
exact, and possessed the faculty of memory in a
singular degree. As a public teacher he was
fluent, animated, and impressive, with great dignity
and grace in his manner.
He was buried in the Canongate churchyard.
The funeral procession proceeded as a private one
from Ainslie Place at, three in the afternoon ; but
on reaching the head of the North Bridge it was
joined by the Senatus Academicus in their gowns
(preceded by the mace bearer) two and two, the
junior members in front, the Rev. Principal Baird
in the rear, together with the Lord Provost, magistrates
and council, with their officers and regalia.
He left a widow and two children, a son and
daughter, the former of whom, Lieutenant-Colonel
Matthew Stewart, published an able pamphlet on
Indian affairs. His widow, who holds a high
place among writers of Scottish song, survived him
ten years, dying in July, 1838.
The Very Rev. Edward Bannerman Ramsay,
LL.D. and F.R.S.E., a genial writer on several
subjects, but chiefly known for his “ Reminiscences
of Scottish Life and Character,” was long the occupant
of No. 23. He was the fourth son of Sir
Alexander Ramsay, Bart., of Balmaine, in Kincardineshire,
and was a graduate of St. John’s College,
Cambridge. His degree of LL.D. was given him
by the University of Edinburgh, on the installation
of Mr. Gladstone as Lord Rector in 1859. He
held English orders, and for seven years had been
a curate in Somersetshire. His last and most
successful contribution to literature was derived
from his long knowledge of Scottish character. He
was for many years Dean of the Episcopal Church
in Scotland, and as a Churchman he always advocated
moderate opinions, both in ritual and doctrine.
He died on the 27th December, 1872, in
the seventy-ninth year of hi5 age.
In the summer of 1879 amemorial to his memory
was erected at the west end of Princes Street,
eastward of St. John’s Church, wherein he so long
officiated. It is a cross of Shap granite, twenty-six
feet in height, having a width of eight feet six
inches from end to end of the arms. At the height
. ... place of a mother. His respect for her was unbounded, and continued to the close; often have we seen him, when ...

Vol. 4  p. 206 (Rel. 0.4)

‘‘ Letters,” that the Countess of Stair was subject
to hysterical fits-the result perhaps of all she had
undergone as a wife. After being long the queen
of society in Edinburgh, she died in November,
1759, twelve years after the death of the Marshal.
She was the first person in the city, of her time,
who had a black domestic servant. Another
dowager, the Lady Clestram, succeeded her in the
old house in the close. It was advertised for
sale, at the upset price of A250, in the Edinburgh
Advertiser of 1789; and is described as “that
large dwelling-house, sometime belonging to the
Dowager Countess of Stair, situated at the entry
to the Earthen Mound. The sunk storey consists
of a good kitchen, servants’ rooms, closets, cellars,
&c. j the second of a dining and bed rooms ; the
third storey of a dining and five bed rooms.” It has
long since been the abode of the humblest artisans.
The parents of Miss Fetrier, the well-known
novelist, according to a writer in T’jZe Bar for
November, 1878, occupied a flat in Lady Stair‘s
Close after their .marriage. Mrs. Femer ( d e
Coutts) was the daughter of a farmer at Gourdon,
near Montrose, and was a woman of remarkable
beauty, as her portrait by Sir George Chalmers,
Bart. (a native of Edinburgh) in 1765 attests. At
the time of her mamage, in 1767, she had resided
in Holyrood with her aunt, the Hon. Mrs. Maitland,
widow of a younger son of Lord Lauderdale;
and the flat the young mamed couple took in
the old close had just been vacated by Sir James
Pulteney and his wife Lady Bath.
When Sir Richard Steele, of the Spectator, visited
Edinburgh, in 1717, on the business of the Forfeited
Estates Commission, we know not whether he
resided in Lady Stair’s Close, but it is recorded
that he gave, in a tavern there, a whimsical supper,
to all the eccentric-looking mendicants in the city,
giving them the enjoyment of an abundant feast,
that he might witness their various oddities.
Richard Sheils mentions this circumstance, and
adds that Steele confessed afterwards that he had
“drunk enough of native drollery to compose a
comedy.”
Upper Baxter‘s Close, the adjoining alley, is
associated with the name of Robert Burns. There
the latter, in 1786, saved from a heartless and
hopeless exile by the generosity of the blind poet,
Dr. Blacklock, came direct from the plough and
the banks of his native Ayr, to share the humble
room and bed of his friend Richmond, a lawyer‘s
clerk, in the house of Mrs. Carfrae. But a few
weeks before poor Bums had made arrangements
to go to Jamaica as joint overseer on an estate; but
the publication of his poems was deemed such a
jUCCeSS, that he altered his plans, and came to
Edinburgh in the November of that year. In one
Jf the numbers of the Lounger appeared a review
3f the first (or Kilmarnock) edition of his poems,
written by Henry Mackenzie, who was thus the
means, together with Dr. Blacklock, of kindly
bringing Burns before the learned and fashionable
circles of Edinburgh. His merited fame had
come before him, and he was now caressed by all
ranks. His brilliant conversational powers seem
to have impressed all who came in contact with
him as much as admiration of his poetry. Under
the patronage of Principal Robertson, Professor
Dugald Stewart, Henry Mackenzie, author of the
“ Man of Feeling,’’ and Sir John Whiteford of that
ilk, but more than all of James Earl of Glencaim,
and other eminent persons, a new edition of his
poems was published in April, 1787 ; but amid all
the adulation he received he ever maintained his
native simplicity and sturdy Scottish independence
of character. By the Earl of Glencaim he was introduced
to the members of the Caledonian Hunt,
and he dedicated to them the second edition of
his poems In verse he touchingly records his
gratitude to the earl :-
‘( The bridegroom may forget the bride
The monarch may forget the crown
The mother may forget the child
But I’ll remember thee, Glencairn,
Was made ’his wedded wife yestreen ;
That on his head an hour has been ;
That smiles sae sweetly on her knee ;
And all that thou hast done for me!”
Bums felt acutely the death of this amiable and
accomplished noble, which occurred in 1791.
The room occupied by Bums in Baxter‘s Close,
and from which he was wont to sally firth to dine
and sup with the magnates of the city, is still pointed
out, with its single window which opens into Lady
Stair’s Close. There, as Allan Cunningham records,
he had but “his share of a deal table,a sanded
floor, and a chaff bed, at eighteenpence a week.”
According to the same biographer, the impression
which Burns made at first on the fair, the
titled, and the learned, of Edinburgh, “though
lessened by intimacy on the part of the men,
remained unimpaired on that of the softer sex
till his dying day. His company, during the
season of balls and festivities, continued to be
courted by all who desired to be reckoned gay
or polite. Cards of invitation fell thick. on him;
he was not more welcomed to the plumed and
jewelled groups whom her fascinating Grace of
Gordon gathered about her, than he was to the
grave divines and polished scholars who assembled ... His company, during the season of balls and festivities, continued to be courted by all who desired to be ...

Vol. 1  p. 106 (Rel. 0.4)

Wton Hill.] THE BURGH OF CALTON. 103 r
beneath the Caltoun Hill, the .place where those
imaginary criminals, witches, and sorcerers in less
enlightened times were burned ; and where at
festive seasons the gay and gallant held their tilts
and tournaments.”
On the north-westem shoulder of the hill stands
the modern Established Church of Greenside, at
the end of the Royal Terrace, a conspicuous and
attractive feature among the few architectural
decorations of that district. Its tower rises IOO feet
above the porch, is twenty feet square, and contains
a bell of 10 cwt.
The main street of the old barony of the Calton
was named, from the ancient chapel which stood
there, St. Ninian’s Row, and a place so called
still exists; and the date and name ST. NINIAN’S
Row, 1752, yet remains on the ancient well. 01
old, the street named the High Calton, was known
as the Craig End.
In those days’a body existed known as the
High Constables of the Calton, but the new
Municipality Act having extinguished the ancient
boundaries of the city, the constabulary, in 1857,
adopted the following resolution, which is written
on vellum, to the Society of Antiquaries of
Scotland :-
“ The district of Calton, or Caldton, formed at
one time part of the estate.of the Elphinstone
family, one of whom-% James, third son of the
third Lord Elphinstone-was created Lord &Imerino
in 1603-4 In 1631 the then Lord
Balmerino granted a charter to the trades of
Calton, constituting them a society or corporation ;
and in 1669 a royal charter was obtained from
Charles II., erecting the district into a burgh of
barony. A court was held by a bailie appointed
by the lord of the manor, and there was founded in
. connectiontherewith, the Societyof Highconstables
of Calton, who have been elected by, and have
continued to act under, the orders of succeeding
Baron Bailies. Although no mention is made 01
our various constabulary bodies in the ‘ Municipality
Extension Act, 1856,’ the venerable office
of Baron Bailie has thereby become extinct, and
the .ancient burghs of Canongate, Calton, Eastern
and Western Portsburgh, are now annexed to the
city. UnGer these circumstances the constabulary
of Calton held an extraordinary meeting on the
17th of March, 1857, at which, infer alia, the
following inotion was carried with acclamation, viz.
‘ That the burgh having ceased to exist, the con
stabulary, in order that some of the relics and
other insignia belonging to this body should be
preserved for the inspection of future generations,
unanimously resolve to present as a free gift to the
Royal Society of Antiquaries of Scotland the.
following, viz :-Constabulary baton, I 747, moderator‘
s official baton, marble bowl, moderator’?
state staff, silver-mounted horn with fourteefi
medals, members’ small baton; report on the
origin and standing of the High Constables OF
Calton, 1855, and the laws of the society, 1847.’”
These relics of the defunct little burgh are
consequently now preserved at the museum in the
Royal Institution.
A kind of round tower, or the basement thereof,
is shown above the south-west angle of the CaltoE
cliffs in Gordon’s view in 1647 ; but of any such
edifice no record remains ; and in the hollow where
Nottingham Place lies now, a group of five isolated
houses, called “ Mud Island,” appears in the maps.
of 1787 and 1798. In 1796, and at many other
times, the magistrates ordained that “ All-hallowfair
be held on the lands of Calton Hill,” as an
open and uncnclosed place, certainly a perilous one,
for tipsy drovers and obstinate cattle. An agriculturist
named Smith farmed the hill and lands
adjacent, now covered by great masses of building,
for several years, till about the close of the 18th
century; and his son, Dr. John Smith, who was
born in 1798, died only in February, 1879, afterbeing
fifty years physician tQ the old charity workhouse
in Forrest Road, .
In 1798, when the Rev. Rowland Hill (thefamous
son of Sir Rowland Hill, of Shropshire).
visited Edinburgh for the first time, he preached
in some of the churches every other day, but the
crowds became so immense, that at last he was
induced to hold forth from a platform erected on
the Calton Hili, where his audience was reckoned.
at not less than 10,000, and the interest excited by
his eloquence is said to have been beyond all
precedent. On his return from the West, he
preached on the hill again to several audiences,.
and on the last of these occasions, when a collection,
was made for the charity workhouse, fully zo,oom
were present. Long years after, when speaking to a.
friend of the multitude whom he had addressed,
there, he said, pleasantly, “ Well do I remember
the spot ; but I understand that it has now been
converted into a den of thieves,” referring to the
gaol now built on the ground where his platform
stood.
The first great cba,nge in the aspect of the hill
was effected by the formation of the Regent Road,
which was cut through the old burying-ground, the
soil of which avenue was decently carted away,
covered with white palls, and full of remnants of
humanity, to the new Calton burying-ground on]
the southern slope ; and the second was the open ... Calton, who have been elected by, and have continued to act under, the orders of ...

Vol. 3  p. 103 (Rel. 0.4)

Leith; LETTERS OF MARQUE. 219
to Hull, Newcastle, Thurso, Orkney, and Shetland,
to Inverness, Fort George, and Invergordon, Cra
marty, Findhom, Burghead, Ban6 and other places
in the north, twice weekly; to Dundee, Aberdeen,
Stonehaven, Johnshaven, Montrose, and places
farther south, four days a week. A number of
steamers run in summer, on advertised days, between
Leith, Aberdour, Elie, North Berwick, Alloa, etc.
The first screw steamer fromLeith to London
was put on the station in 1853.
Several ships belonging to the port are employed
in the Greenland whale fishery, and a considerable
number trade with distant foreign ports,
especially with those of the Baltic and the West
Indies.
“ In consequence of the want of a powder magazine,”
says a statistical writer, “gunpowder sent
from the mills of Midlothian for embarkationtoo
dangerous a commodity to be admitted to any
ordinary storing-place, or to lie on board vessels
in the harbour-has frequently, when vessels do not
sail at the time expected, to be carted back to
await the postponed date of sailing, and, in some
instances, has been driven six times between the
mills and the port, a distance each time, in going
and returning, of twenty or twenty-four miles, before
it could be embarked”
The lighthouse has a stationary light, and exhibits
it at night so long as there is a depth of not
less than nine feet of water on the bar, for the
guidance of vessels entering the harbour.
The tall old signal-tower has a manager and
signal-master, who display a series of signals during
the day, to proclaim the progress or retrogression of
the tide.
The general anchoring-place for vessels is two
miles from the land, and in the case of large
steamers, is generally westward of Leith, and opposite
Newhaven. During the French and Spanish
war, the roadstead was the station of an admiral’s
flagship, a guardship, and squadron of cruisers.
Inverkeithing is the quarantine station of the
port, eight and three-quarter miles distant, in a direct
h e , by west, of the entrance of Leith Harbour.
In connection with the naval station in the
Roads, Leith enjoyed much prosperity during the
war, as being a place for the condemnation and
sale of prize vessels, with their cargoes; and in
consequence of Bonaparte’s great Continental
scheme of prevention, it was the seat of a most
extensive traffic for smuggling British goods into
the north of Europe, by way of Heligoland, a
system which employed many armed vessels of all
kinds, crowded its harbour, and greatly enriched
many of its bold and speculative inhabitants.
Foreign ventures, however, proved, in some instances,
to be severely unsuccessful ; “ and their
failure combined, with the disadvantages of the
harbour and the oppression of shore dues, to produce
that efflux of prosperity, the ebb of which
seems to have been reached, to give place,” says a
writer in 1851, “to a steady and wealth-bearing
flood.”
The last prizes candemned and sold in Leith
were some Russian vessels, chiefly brigs, captured
by Sir Charles Napier‘s fleet in the Baltic and
Gulf of Finland during the Crimean War.
It is singular that neither at the Trinity House,
in the Kirkgate, nor anywhere else, a record has
been kept of the Leith Letters of Marque or other
armed vessels belonging to the port during the
protracted wars with France, Spain, and Holland,
while the notices that occur of them in the brief
public prints of those days are meagre in the extreme
; yet the fighting merchant marine of Leith
should not be forgotten.
Taking a few of these notices chronologically,
we find that the ship Edinburgh, of Leith, Thomas
Murray commander, a Letter of Marque, carrying
eighteen 4-pounders, with swivels and a fully-armed
crew, on the 30th of August, 1760, in latitude 13O
north, and longitude 58O west, from London, fell in
with a very large French privateer, carrying fourteen
guns, many swivels, and full of men.
This was at eleven in the forenoon. The
Edinburgh, we are told, attacked, and fought her
closely “ for five glasses,” and mauled her aloft so
much, that she was obliged to fill her sails, bear
away, and then bring to, and re-fit aloft. The Edinburgh
continued her course, but with ports triced
up, guns loaded, and the crew at quarters ready to
engage again.
The privateer followed, and attempted to board,
but was received with such a terrible fire of round
shot and small-arms, that she was again obliged to
sheer of. Many times the conflict was renewed,
and at last ammunition fell short on board the
The gallant Captain Murray now lay by, reserving
his fire, while a couple of broadsides swept his
deck; and then, when both ships were almost
muzzle to muzzle, and having brought all his guns
over to one side, poured in his whole fire upon her,
“ which did such execution that it drove all hands
from their quarters j she immediately hoisted all
her sails, and made OK”
The crew of the Ednaurgh now ‘‘ sheeted home,”
and gave chase, but she was so heavily laden with
the spoils of her cruise that the enemy out-sailed
her, upon which Captain Murray, with a great
Edinburgh. ... and then bring to, and re-fit aloft. The Edinburgh continued her course, but with ports triced up, guns ...

Vol. 6  p. 279 (Rel. 0.39)

370 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Heriot’s Hospital
the four blocks at each angle of the quadrangle
are furnished with corbelled turrets, having cupola
roofs and vanes. Each of these is four storeys in
height; the other parts are three.
On the south, opposite the entrance, and facing
Lauriston, is the chapel, 61 feet by 22, neatly fitted
up, and occasioning a projection, surmounted by
a small spJe, which balances the tower on the
north For a long period it remained in a comparatively
unfinished state, when it was fitted up in
what Dr. Steven calls a “flimsy species of Italian
architecture,” excepting the pulpit and end galleries,
which were a kind of Early English, but meagre in
their details. But forty years ago or so, Mr.
Gillespie Graham, the architect, suggested that the
chapel should be entirely renovated in a style
worthy of the building, and he offered to prepare
the designs gratuitously. This generous offer was
accepted, and it was fitted up in its present
elegant style. It has a handsome pulpit, a richly
adorned ceiling, and many beautiful carvings of oak.
In an architectural point of view this famous
hospital is full of contradictions, but when viewed
from distant points, its turrets, chimneys, and pipnades
stand up against the sky in luxuriant confusion,
yet with singular symmetry, though no two
portions are quite alike. A professional writer
says, “ we know of no other instance in the works
of a man of acknowledged talent, where the operation
of changing styles is so evident. In the chapel
windows, though the outlines are fine Gothic, the
mouldings are Roman. In the eatrance archways,
although the principal members are Roman, the
pinnacles, trusses, and minute sculptures partake
of the Gothic.’’
This building has another marked peculiarity,
in the segment of an octagonal tower in frontthat
of the chapel-lighted through its whole extremity
by a succession of Gothic windows divided
by mullions alone, which produce a singularly rich
and pleasing effect.
The hospital is surroundedby a stately and magnificent
balustraded terrace, from which noble flights
of at least twelve steps descend to the ground.
In the wall over the gateway is a statue of
George Heriot, the founder, in the’costume of the
time of James VI. This, the boys on ‘‘ Heriot’s
Day,” the first Monday of June, decorate with
flowers, in honour of their benefactor, of whom
several relics are preserved in the hospital, particularly
his bellows and cup. There is also a portrait
of him, said to be only the copy of an original.
It represents him in the prime of life, with a
calm, thoughtful, and penetrating countenance, and
about the mouth an expression of latent humour.
Heriot’s foundation has continued to flourish
and enjoy a well-deserved fame. (‘With an
annual revenue,” says a writer in 1845, “ of nearly AI 5,000, it affords maintenance, clothing, and
education for, also pecuniary presents to, one hundred
and eighty boys, such being all that the house
large as it is, is able conveniently to accommodate.
Instead of increasing the establishment in correspondence
with the extent of the funds, it was suggested
a few years ago, by Mr. Duncan Machen,
one of the governors, to devote an annual ovcrplus
ofabout L3,ooo to the erection and maintenance of
free schools throughout the city, for the education
of poor children, those of poor burgesses being
preferred, and this judicious proposal being forthwith
adopted and sanctioned by an Act of Parliament
(6 and 7 William IV,), there have since
been erected, and are now (1845) in operation, five
juvenile and two infant schools, giving an elementary
education to 2,131 children.” This number
has greatly increased since then.
The management of the hospital is vested in
the Lord Provost, Bailies, and Council of the city,
and the clergy of the Established Church, making
in all fifty-four governors, with a House Governor,
Treasurer, Clerk, Superintendent of Property, Physician,
Surgeon, Apothecary, Dentist, Accountant,
a matron, and a staff of masters.
In 1880 the revenue of the hospital amounted
to &24,000. In it are maintained 180 boys,
of whom 60 are noh-resident. The age of admission
is between 7 and 10 years, though in exceptional
cases, non-residents may be taken at 12. All
leave at 14, unless they pass as “ hopeful scholars.”
They are taught English, French, Latin, Greek, and
all the usual branches of a liberal education, with
music and drawing.
Those who manifest a desire to pursue the
learned professions are sent to the adjacent University,
with an allowance for four sessions of A30
per annum; and apprentices may also receive
bursary allowances to forward them in their trades ;
while ten out-door bursaries, of;t;zo each yearly, are
likewise bestowed on deserving students at college.
On leaving the hospital the “poore fatherless
boyes, freemen’s sonnes,” as Heriot calls them in
his will, are provided with clothes and suitable
books; and such of them as become apprentices
for five years or upwards, receive A50 divided into
equal annual payments during their term of service,
besides a gratuity of jC;5 at its end. Those who
are apprenticed for a shorter term than five years
receive a correspondingly less allowance.
One master is resident, as is the house governor,
but all the rest are non-resident. ... expression of latent humour. Heriot’s foundation has continued to flourish and enjoy a well-deserved fame. ...

Vol. 4  p. 370 (Rel. 0.39)

Canongate.] THE TENNIS COURT. ’ 39
Scotland, and who for some years had been Commissioner
to the General Assembly. In this house
he died, 28th July, 1767, as recorded in the Scots
Magazine, and was succeeded by his son, Major-
General the Earl of Ancrum, Colonel of the 11th
Light Dragoons (now Hussars). His second son,
Lord Robert, had been killed at Culloden.
His marchioness, Margaret, the daughter of Sir
Thomas Nicholson, Bart., of Kempnay, who survived
him twenty years, resided in Lothian Hut
till her death. It was afterwards occupied by the
dowager of the ‘ fourth Marquis, Lady Caroline
D’Arcy, who was only daughter of Robert Earl
of Holderness, and great-grand-daughter of Charles
Louis, the Elector Palatine, a lady whose character
is remembered traditionally to have been both
grand and amiable. Latterly the Hut was the
residence of Professor Dugald Stewart, who, about
the end of the last century, entertained there many
English pupils of high rank. Among them, perhaps
the most eminent was Henry Temple, afterwards
Lord Palmerston, whose education, commenced
at Harrow, was continued at the University
of Edinburgh. When he re-visited the latter city in
1865, during his stay he was made aware that an
aged woman, named Peggie Forbes, who had been
a servant with Dugald Stewart at Lothian Hut,
was still alive, and residing at No. I, Rankeillor
Street. There the great statesman visited her, and
expressed the pleasure he felt at renewing the
acquaintance of the old domestic.
Lothian Hut, the scene of Dugald Stewart’s
most important literary labours, was pulled down
ih 1825, to make room for a brewery ; but a house
of the same period, at the south-west corner of the
Horse Wynd, bears still the name of Lothian
Vale.
A little to the eastward of the present White
Horse hostel, and immediately adjoining the Water
Gate, stood the Hospital of St. Thomas, founded
in 154r by George Crichton, Bishop of Dunkeld,
“dedicated to God, the Blessed Virgin Mary, and
all the saints.” It consisted of an almshouse and
chapel, the bedesmen of which were “to celebrate
the founder’s anniversary obit. by solemnly singing
in the choir of Holyrood church yearly, on the
day of his death, ‘the Placebo and Dinie for the
repose of his soul ” and the soul of the King of
Scotland. “ Special care,” says Amot, “ was taken
in allotting money for providing candles to be
lighted during the anniversary ma.ss of requiem,
and the number and size of the tapers were fixed
with a precision which shows the importance in
which these circumstances were held by the founder.
The number of masses, paternosters, aye-marias,
and credos, to be said by the chaplain and bedesmen
is distinctly ascertained.”
The patronage of the institution was vested by
the founder in himself and a certain series of representatives
named by him.
In 1617, with the consent of David Crichton of
Lugton, the patron, who had retained possession
of the endowments, the magistrates of the Canongate
purchased the chapel and almshouse from the
chaplains and bedesmen, and converted the institution
into a hospital for the poor of the burgh.
Over the entrance they placed the Canongate arms,
supported by a pair of ‘cripples, an old man and
woman, with the inscription-
HELP HERE THE POORE, AS ZE WALD GOD DID ZOV.
JUNE 19, 1617.
The magistrates of the Canongate sold the patronage
of the institution in 1634 to the Kirk Session,
by whom its revenues “ were entirely embezzled f
by 1747 the buildings were turned into coachhouses,
and in 1787 were pulled down, and replaced
by modem houses of hideous aspect.
On the opposite side of the Water Gate was the
Royal Tennis Court, the buildings of which are
very distinctly shown in Gordon’s map of 1647.
Maitland says it was anciently called the Catchpel,
from Cache, a game now called Fives, a favourite
amusement in Scotland as early as the reign of
James IV. The house, a long, narrow building,
with a court, after being a weavers’ workhouse,
was burned down in 1771, and rebuilt in the
tasteless fashion of that period ; but the locality is
full of interest, as being connected not only with
the game of tennis, as played there by the Duke
of Albany, Law the great financial schemer, and
others, but the early and obscure history of the
stage in Scotland.
In 1554 there was a ‘‘litill farsche and play
maid be William Lauder,” and acted before the
Queen Regent, Mary of Guise, for which he was
rewarded by two silver cups. Where it was acted
is not stated. Neither are we told where was perlormed
another play, “ made by Robert Simple ”
at Edinburgh, before the grim Lord Regent and
others of the nobility in 1567, and for which the
mthor was paid ;E66 13s. 4d.
The next record of .a post-Reformation theatre is
in the time of James VI. when several companies
came from London for the amusement of the court,
including one of which Shakspere was a member,
though his appearance cannot be substantiated.
In 1599 the company of English comedians was
interdicted by the clergy and Kirk Session,
though their performances, says Spottiswoode in ... Palmerston, whose education, commenced at Harrow, was continued at the University of Edinburgh. When he ...

Vol. 3  p. 39 (Rel. 0.39)

Newhaven. ] HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. 299
Newhaven was deemed a place of much more
importance in those days,than it has been in subsequent
times.
Thus, in 1554, the works then occupied the
attention of the Provost and Council repeatedly.
In February that year A500 was given for timber
to repair the harbour, to be taken with a portion
of the tax laid on the town for building forts upon
the Borders ; and in 1555 we read of timber again
for Newhaven, brought there by Robert Quintin,
but which was sold by the advice of Sir William
Macdowall, master of the works. (“Burgh Records?’)
In the Burgh Account, under date 1554-5, we
find some references to the locality, thus t
“Item, the vj day of July, 1555, for cords to
bind and hang the four Inglismen at Leyth and
Newhaven, iijs.
“ Item, geven to Gorge Tod, Adam Purves, and
ane servand, to mak ane gibbet at Newhaven, in
haist and evil wedder (weather), 4s.
“ Item, for garroun and plansheour naillis, xxd.
“ Item, for drink to them at Newhaven, vj4
“Item, to twa workmen to beir the wrychtis
lomis to the Newhevin and up again, and to beir
the work and set up the gibbet, xxd.”
In the same year extensive works seem to have
been in operation, as, by the Burgh Accounts,
they appear to have extended from August to
November, under Robert Quintin, master of the
works. The entries for masons’ wages, timber
work, wrights’ wages, “ on Saiterday at evin to thair
supperis,” are given in regular order. John Arduthy
in Leith seems to have contracted for the “ standarts
to the foir face of the Newhevin;” and for
the crane there, eighteen fathoms of “Danskin tow”
(rope), were purchased fram Peter Turnett’s wife,
at tenpence the fathom.
John Ahannay and Geoge Bennet did the smithwork
at the crane, bulwarks, and worklooms. The
works at Newhaven, commenced in August, 1555,
under John Preston, as City Treasurer, were continued
till the middle of December eventually, under
Sir John Wilson, “master of work at the Newhevin,”
when they were suspended during winter and resumed
in the spring of 1556 ; and “ drink silver,”
to all the various trades engaged, figures amply
among the items. (“ Burgh Accounts.”)
In 1573 the Links of Newhaven were let by the
city, at an annual rent of thirty merks per annum
as grazing ground, thus showing that they must
then have been about the extent of those at Leith.
In 1595 they only produced six merks, and from
this rapid fall Maitland supposes that the sea had
made extensive encroachments on the ground ; and
as they are now nearly swept away, save a space
500 yards by 250, at the foot of the Whale Brae,
we may presume that his conjecture was a correct
one.
Kincaid states that at one period Newhaven had
Links both to the east and west of it. Even
the road that must have bordered the east Links
was swept away, and for years a perilous hole,
known as the ‘‘ Man-trap,” remained in the placea
hole in which, till recently, many a limb was
fractured and many a life lost.
In one of the oldest houses in Newhaven, nearly
opposite the burial-ground, there is a large sculp
tured pediment of remarkable appearance. It is
surmounted by a thistle, with the motto Nemo me
impune Zacessit, on ,a scroll, and the date 1588, a
three-masted ship, with the Scottish ensign at each
truck, pierced for sixteen guns, and below the
motto, in Roman letters,
IN THE NUM OF GOD.
Below this again is a deeply-cut square panel,
decorated with a pair of globes, a quadrant, cross,
staff, and anchor; and beneath these part of the
motto “ Yirtzte sydera ’ may, upon very close examination,
still be deciphered; but the history of
the stone, or of the house to which it belonged, is
unknown.
Some hollows near the p?ace were known as the
Fairy Holes, and they are mentioned in the indictment
of Eufame McCulzane for witchcraft, who is
stated to have attended a convention of witches
there in 1591, and also at others called the “Brume
Hoillis,” where she and many other witches, with
the devil in company, put to sea in riddles.
In 1630 and 1631 we find from “Dune’s Decisions,”
James Drummond, tacksman to the Lord
Holyroodhouse, of the Tiend Fishes of Newhaven,
(‘ pursuing spulzie ,’ against the fishers there.
The year 1630 was the first year of the tack, and
the fishermen alleged that they had been in use to
pay a particular duty, that was condescended an,
“ of all years preceding this year now acclaimed.”
The Lords found there was no necessity to grant
an inhibition, and reserved to themselves the modification
of the duty or quantity to be paid.
Newhaven gave the title of Viscount to an
English family who never had any connection with
the place, when in 1681 Charles 11. raised to the
peerage of Scotland Charles Cheyne, of Cogenho,
in Middlesex (dcscended from an ancient family in
Buckinghamshire), with the titles of ‘‘ Lord Cheyne
and Viscount Newhaven, near Leith, in the county
of Midlothian,” by patent dated at Windsor. His
son, the second Viscount Newhaven, who was
appointed Lord Lieutenant of Bucks by Queen ... 1555, under John Preston, as City Treasurer, were continued till the middle of December eventually, ...

Vol. 6  p. 299 (Rel. 0.39)

90 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bonnington.
In April, 1747, the Countess of Hugh, third Earl
of Marchmont (Anne Western of London), died in
Redbraes House; and we may add that “Lord
Polwarth of Redbraes ” was one of the titles of Sir
Patrick Hume when raised to the Scottish peerage
as Earl of Marchmont.
We afterwards find Sir Hew Crawford, Bart. of
Jordanhill, resident proprietor at Redbraes. Here,
in 1775, his eldest daughter Mary was married to
General, Campbell of Boquhan (previously known
as Fletcher of Saltoun), and here he would seem
to have been still when another of his daughters
found her way into the caricatures of Kay, a subject
whichmade a great noise in its time as a local scandal.
In the Abbey Hill .there then resided an ambitious
little grocer named Mr. Alexander Thomson,
locally known as “Ruffles,” from the long
loose appendages of lace he wore at his sleeves.
With a view to his aggrandisement he hoped to
connect himself with some aristocratic family, and
cast his eyes on Miss Crawford, a lady rather fantastic
in her dress and manners, but the daughter
of a man of high and indomitable pride. She kept
“ Ruffles ” at a proper distance, though he followed
her like her shadow, and so they appeared
in the same print of Kay.
The lady did not seem to be always so fastidious,
as she formed what was deemed then a
terrible mbaZZiunce by marrying John Fortune, a
surgeon, who went abroad. Fortune’s brother,
Matthew, kept the Tontine tavern in Princes
Street, and his father a famous old inn in the High
Street, the resort of all the higher ranks in Scotland
about the close of the last century, as has already
been seen in an earlier chapter of this work.
Her brother, Captain Crawford, threatened to
cudgel Kay, who in turn caricatured hinz. Sir Hew
Crawford’s family originally consisted of fifteen,
most of whom died young. The baronetcy, which
dated from 1701, is now supposed to be extinct.
In their day the grounds of Redbraes were
deemed so beautiful, that mullioned openings were
made in the boundary wall to permit passers-by to
peep in.
In 1800 the Edinburgh papers announced proposals
‘‘ for converting the beautiful villa of Redbraes
into a Vauxhall, the entertainment to consist
of a concert of vocal and instrumental music, to be
conducted by Mr. Urbani-a band to play between
the acts of the concert, at the entrance, &c. The
gardens and grounds to be decorated with statues
and transparencies ; and a pavilion to be erected to
serve as a temporary retreat in case of rain, and
boxes and other conveniences to be erected for
serving cold collations.”
This scheme was never carried out. Latterly
Redbraes became a nursery garden.
Below Redbraes lies Bonnington, a small and
nearly absorbed village on the banks of the Water
of Leith, which is there crossed by a narrow bridge.
There are several mills and other works here, and
in the vicinity an extensive distillery. The once
arable estate of Hill-house Field, which adjoins it,
is all now laid out in streets, and forms a suburb
of North Leith. The river here attains some
depth.
We read that about April, 1652, dissent began
to take new and hitherto little known forms. There
were Antitrinitarians, Antinomians, Familists (a
small sect who held that families alone were a
proper congregation), Brownists, as well as Independents,
Seekers, and so forth ; and where there were
formerly no avowed Anabaptists, these abounded
so much, that “ thrice weekly,” says Nicoll, in his
Diary, “namely, on Monday, Wednesday, and
Friday, there were some dippit at Bonnington Mill,
betwixt Leith and Edinburgh, both men and
women of good rank. Some days there would be
sundry hundred persons attending that action, and
fifteen persons baptised in one day by the Anabap
tists. Among the converts was Lady Craigie-
Wallace, a lady in the west country.”
In the middle of the last century there resided
at his villa of Bonnyhaugh, in this quarter, Robert,
called Bishop Keith, an eminent scholar and antiquary,
the foster-brother of Robert Viscount Arbuthnot,
and who came to Edinburgh in February,
1713, when he was invited by the small congregation
of Scottish Episcopalians to become their
pastor. His talents and learning had already
attracted considerable attention, and procured him
influence in that Church, of which he was a zealous
supporter ; yet he was extremely liberal, gentle, and
tolerant in his religious sentiments. In January,
1727, he was raised to the Episcopate, and entrusted
with the care of Caithness, Orkney, and the
Isles, and in I 733 was preferred to that of Fife. For
more than twenty years after that time he continued
to exercise the duties of his office, filling a high and
dignified place in Edinburgh, while busy with
those many historical works which have given him
no common place in Scottish literature.
It is now well known that, previous to the rising
of 1745, he was in close correspondence with
Prince Charles Edward, but chiefly on subjects
relating to his depressed and suffering communion,
and that the latter, “as the supposed head of a
supposed Church, gave’ the con$ d’kZire necessary
for the election of individuals to exercise the epis.
copal office.” ... that of Fife. For more than twenty years after that time he continued to exercise the duties of his office, ...

Vol. 5  p. 90 (Rel. 0.39)

politically. These documents had been perfidiously
sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis
was condemned to die the death of a traitor.
From the Castle he begged in vain a ten days’
respite, that he might crave pity of the king. ‘‘I
placed the crown upon his head,” said he, mourn-
- fully, “ and this is my reward ! ”
An escape was planned. He lay in bed for
some days feigning iuyess, and the Marchioness
came in a sedan to visit him. Being of the same
stature, he assumed her dress and coif; but when
about to step into the sedan his courage failed him,
and he abandoned the attempt. The night before
execution he was removed to the most ancient
prison in Edinburgh-an edifice in Mauchine’s
Close, long since removed, where the Marchioness
awaited him. “The Lord will requite it,” she exclaimed,
as she wept bitterly on his breast. “ Forbear,
Margaret,” said. he, calmly, “I pity my
enemies, and am as content in this ignominious
prison as in yonder Castle of Edinburgh.”
With his last breath he expressed abhorrence of
the death of Charles I, and on the 27th May his
head was struck from his body by the Maiden, at
the west end of the Tolbooth. By patent all his
ancient earldom and estates were restored to his
son, h r d Lorne, then a prisoner in the Castle,
where on one occasion he had a narrow escape,
when playing “ with hand bullets ” {bowls 3) one
of which, as Wodrow records, struck him senseless.
On the 30th May, 1667, the batteries of the
Castle returned the salute of the English fleet,
which came to anchor in the roads under the
pennant of Sir Jeremiah Smythe; who came thither
in quest of the Dutch fleet, which had been bombarding
Burntisland.
Janies Duke of Alhany and York succeeded the
odious Duke Q€ Lauderdale in the administration
of Scottish affairs, and won the favour of all classes,
while he resided at Holyrood awaiting the issue of
the famous Bill of Exclusion, which would deprive
him of the throne of England on the demise of
his brother, and hence it became his earnest desire
to secure at least Scotland, the hereditary kingdom
of his race. OR his fixst Visit to &e Cask, on
30th October, 1680, Mons Meg br-rst when the
guns were saluting-a ring near the touchhole
giving way, which, saith Fountainhall, was deemed
by all men a bad omen. His lordship adds that
as the gun was charged by an English gunner,
required by the obnoxious Test Act as Commis.
Goner of the Scottish Treasury; and on the 12th
Scottish manners gradually gave way before the
affability of such entertainers as the Duchess
Mary d’ Este of Modena, and the Princess Anne,
“and the novel luxuries of the English court
formed an attraction to the Scottish grandees.
Tea was introduced for the first time into Scotland
on this occasion, and given by the duchess as a
great treat to the Scottish ladies. Balls, plays, and
masquerades were also attempted; but the last
proved too great an innovation on the rigid manners
of that period to be tolerated.”
The accession of King James VII. is thus recorded
by Lord Fountainhall (&‘ Decisions,” vol. i.) :
--“Feb. 6th, 1685. The Privy Council is called
extraordinary, on the occasion of an express sent
them by his royal highness the Duke of Albany,
telling that, on Monday the 2nd February, the king
was seized with a violent and apoplectic fit, which
stupefied him for four hours ; but, by letting twelve
ounces of blood and applying cupping-glasses to
his head, he revived. This unexpected surprise
put our statesmen in a hurly-burly, and was
followed by the news of the death of his Majesty,
which happened on the 7th of February, and came
home to us on the roth, in the morning ; whereupon
a theatre was immediately erected at the cross of
Edinburgh, and the militia companies drawn out
in arms ; and, at ten o’clock, the Chancellor,
Treasurer, and all the other officers of State, with
the nobility, lotds of Privy Council and Session, the
magistrates and town council of Edinburgh, came
to the cross, with the lion king-at-arms, his heralds
and trumpeters ; the Chance!;or carried his own
purse, and, weeping, proclaimed Jimes Duke af
Albany the ~nZy and undoubtcrt king of this realm, by
fhe-tiile of Jirnes VfL, the clerk registrar reading
the words of the Act to him, and all of them swore
faith and allegiance to him. Then the other proclamation
was then read, whereby King James VII.
continued all oAices till he had more time to send
down new commissions. . - . . Then the
Castle shot a round of guns, and sermon began,
wherein Mr. John Robertson did regret our loss,
but desiredour tears might be dried up when we
looked upon so brave and excellent a successor.
The Privy Council called foa all the seals, and broke
them, appointing new ones with the name of James
VII. to be made.”
In r68c the Earl of Argyie was committed to
the Castle for the third time for declining the oath
. having no cannon in all England so big as she.”
During the duke’s residence at Holyrood a splendid
of December ,an assize brought in their verdict, by
the Marquis of Montrose, his hereditary foe, finding ... the other proclamation was then read, whereby King James VII. continued all oAices till he had more time to ...

Vol. 1  p. 58 (Rel. 0.39)

politically. These documents had been perfidiously
sent to Scotland by General Monk. The marquis
was condemned to die the death of a traitor.
From the Castle he begged in vain a ten days’
respite, that he might crave pity of the king. ‘‘I
placed the crown upon his head,” said he, mourn-
- fully, “ and this is my reward ! ”
An escape was planned. He lay in bed for
some days feigning iuyess, and the Marchioness
came in a sedan to visit him. Being of the same
stature, he assumed her dress and coif; but when
about to step into the sedan his courage failed him,
and he abandoned the attempt. The night before
execution he was removed to the most ancient
prison in Edinburgh-an edifice in Mauchine’s
Close, long since removed, where the Marchioness
awaited him. “The Lord will requite it,” she exclaimed,
as she wept bitterly on his breast. “ Forbear,
Margaret,” said. he, calmly, “I pity my
enemies, and am as content in this ignominious
prison as in yonder Castle of Edinburgh.”
With his last breath he expressed abhorrence of
the death of Charles I, and on the 27th May his
head was struck from his body by the Maiden, at
the west end of the Tolbooth. By patent all his
ancient earldom and estates were restored to his
son, h r d Lorne, then a prisoner in the Castle,
where on one occasion he had a narrow escape,
when playing “ with hand bullets ” {bowls 3) one
of which, as Wodrow records, struck him senseless.
On the 30th May, 1667, the batteries of the
Castle returned the salute of the English fleet,
which came to anchor in the roads under the
pennant of Sir Jeremiah Smythe; who came thither
in quest of the Dutch fleet, which had been bombarding
Burntisland.
Janies Duke of Alhany and York succeeded the
odious Duke Q€ Lauderdale in the administration
of Scottish affairs, and won the favour of all classes,
while he resided at Holyrood awaiting the issue of
the famous Bill of Exclusion, which would deprive
him of the throne of England on the demise of
his brother, and hence it became his earnest desire
to secure at least Scotland, the hereditary kingdom
of his race. OR his fixst Visit to &e Cask, on
30th October, 1680, Mons Meg br-rst when the
guns were saluting-a ring near the touchhole
giving way, which, saith Fountainhall, was deemed
by all men a bad omen. His lordship adds that
as the gun was charged by an English gunner,
required by the obnoxious Test Act as Commis.
Goner of the Scottish Treasury; and on the 12th
Scottish manners gradually gave way before the
affability of such entertainers as the Duchess
Mary d’ Este of Modena, and the Princess Anne,
“and the novel luxuries of the English court
formed an attraction to the Scottish grandees.
Tea was introduced for the first time into Scotland
on this occasion, and given by the duchess as a
great treat to the Scottish ladies. Balls, plays, and
masquerades were also attempted; but the last
proved too great an innovation on the rigid manners
of that period to be tolerated.”
The accession of King James VII. is thus recorded
by Lord Fountainhall (&‘ Decisions,” vol. i.) :
--“Feb. 6th, 1685. The Privy Council is called
extraordinary, on the occasion of an express sent
them by his royal highness the Duke of Albany,
telling that, on Monday the 2nd February, the king
was seized with a violent and apoplectic fit, which
stupefied him for four hours ; but, by letting twelve
ounces of blood and applying cupping-glasses to
his head, he revived. This unexpected surprise
put our statesmen in a hurly-burly, and was
followed by the news of the death of his Majesty,
which happened on the 7th of February, and came
home to us on the roth, in the morning ; whereupon
a theatre was immediately erected at the cross of
Edinburgh, and the militia companies drawn out
in arms ; and, at ten o’clock, the Chancellor,
Treasurer, and all the other officers of State, with
the nobility, lotds of Privy Council and Session, the
magistrates and town council of Edinburgh, came
to the cross, with the lion king-at-arms, his heralds
and trumpeters ; the Chance!;or carried his own
purse, and, weeping, proclaimed Jimes Duke af
Albany the ~nZy and undoubtcrt king of this realm, by
fhe-tiile of Jirnes VfL, the clerk registrar reading
the words of the Act to him, and all of them swore
faith and allegiance to him. Then the other proclamation
was then read, whereby King James VII.
continued all oAices till he had more time to send
down new commissions. . - . . Then the
Castle shot a round of guns, and sermon began,
wherein Mr. John Robertson did regret our loss,
but desiredour tears might be dried up when we
looked upon so brave and excellent a successor.
The Privy Council called foa all the seals, and broke
them, appointing new ones with the name of James
VII. to be made.”
In r68c the Earl of Argyie was committed to
the Castle for the third time for declining the oath
. having no cannon in all England so big as she.”
During the duke’s residence at Holyrood a splendid
of December ,an assize brought in their verdict, by
the Marquis of Montrose, his hereditary foe, finding ... the other proclamation was then read, whereby King James VII. continued all oAices till he had more time to ...

Vol. 1  p. 59 (Rel. 0.39)

Leith.] FIGHT IN THE HARBOUR. ‘33
of war, which had been at anchor for six weeks
in the Roads, and apparently with all her guns
shotted,
About noon on the 10th December, 1613, an
Englishman, who was in a “mad humour,” says
Calderwood, when the captain and most of the
officers were on shore, laid trains of powder throughout
the vessel, notwithstanding that his own son
was on board, and blew her up. Balfour states
that she was a 48-gun ship, commanded by a
Captain Wood, that sixty men were lost in her,
and sixty-three who escaped were sent to London.
Calderwood reduces the number who perished to
twenty-four, and adds that the fire made all her
ordnance go off, so that none dared go near her to
render assistance.
In 1618 Leith was visited by Taylor, the Water
Poet, and was there welcomed by Master Bernard
Lindsay, one of the grooms of his Majesty’s bedchamber;
and his notice of the commerce of the
port presents a curious contrast to the Leith of the
present day :-cc I was credibly informed that within
the compass of one year there was shipped away
from that only port of Leith fourscore thousand
boles of wheat, oats, and barley, into Spain, France,
and other foreign parts, and every bole contains a
measure of four English bushels; so that from
Leith only hath been transported 320,000 bushels
of corn, besides some hath been shipped away
from St. Andrews, Dundee, Aberdeen, &c., and
other portable towns, which makes me wonder that
a kingdom so populous as it is, should nevertheless
sell so much bread corn beyond the seas, and yet
have more than sufficient for themselves.”
In parochial and other records of those days
many instances are noted of the capture of Scottish
mariners by the pirates of Algiers, and of collections
being made in the several parishes for their
redemption from slavery. In the Register of the
Privy Council, under date January, r636, we find
that a ship called the Jdn, of Leith, commanded
by John Brown, when sailing from London to
La Rochelle, on the coast of France, fell in with
three Turkish men-of-war, which, after giving him
chase from sunrise to sunset, captured the vessel,
took possession of the cargo and crew, and then
scuttled her.
Poor Brown and his mariners were all taken to
Salee, and there sold in the public market as
slaves. Each bore iron chains to the weight of
eighty pounds, and all were daily employed in
grinding at a mill, while receiving nothing to eat
but a little dusty bread. In the night they were
confined in holes twenty feet deep aniong rats and
mice, and because they were too poor-being only
mariners-to redeem themselves, they trusted to the
benevolence of his Majesty‘s subjects. By order
of the Council, a contribution was levied in the
Lothians and elsewhere, but with what result we
are not told.
In 1622 the usual excitements of the times were
varied by a sea-fight in the heart of Leith harbour.
On the 6th of June, in that year, the constable of
Edinburgh Castle received orders from the Lords
of Council to have his cannon and cannoniers in
instant readiness, as certain foreign ships were engaged
in close battle within gunshot of Leith
A frigate belonging to Philip IV. of Spain, cbmmanded
by Don Pedro de Vanvornz, had been
lying for some time at anchor within the harbour
there, taking on board provisions and stores, her
soldiers and crew coming on shore freely whenever
they chose; but it happened that one night two
vessels of war, belonging to their bitter enemies,
the Dutch, commanded by Mynheer de Hautain,
the Admiral of Zealand, came into the same anchorage,
and-as the Earl of Melrose reported to
James VI.-cast anchor close by Don Pedro.
The moment daylight broke the startled Spaniards
ran up their ensign, cleared away for action, and a
desperate fight ensued, nearly muzzle to muzzle.
For two hours without intermission, the tiers of
brass cannon from the decks of the three ships
poured forth a destructive fire, and the Spaniards,
repulsed by sword and partisan, made more than
one attempt to carry their lofty bulwarks by
boarding. The smoke of their culverins, matchlocks,
and pistolettes enveloped their rigging and
all the harbour of Leith, through the streets and
along the pier of which bullets of all sorts and
sizes went skipping and whizzing, to the terror and
confusion of the inhabitants.
As this state of things was intolerable, the burgesses
of the city and seaport rushed to arms and
armour, at the disposal of the Lords of Council,
who despatched a herald with the water bailie to
command both parties to forbear hostilities in Scottish
waters ; but neither the herald‘s tabard nor the
bailie’s authority prevailed, and the fight continued
with unabated fury till midday. The Spanish
captain finding himself sorely pressed by his two
antagonists, obtained permission to warp his ship
farther within the harbour ; but still the unrelenting
Dutchmen poured their broadsides upon his
shattered hull.
The Privy Council now ordered the Admiral
Depute to muster the mariners of Leith, and assail
the Admiral of Zealand in aid of the Dunkerpuer;
but the depute reported that they were altogether
vnable, and he saw no way to enforce obedience ... nor the bailie’s authority prevailed, and the fight continued with unabated fury till midday. The ...

Vol. 5  p. 183 (Rel. 0.39)

202 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
.armorial he adopted was argent, a tree or, with two
ships under sail.
It was still time of truce when Henry, mortified
by the defeat of his five ships, exhorted his most
.able seamen “ to purge away this stain cast on the
English name,” and offered the then noble pension
of &I,OOO per annum to any man who could
accomplish Wood’s death or capture ; and the task
was taken in hand by Sir Stephen Bull (originally
a merchant of London), who, with three of Henry’s
largest ships manned by picked crews, and having
on board companies of crossbowmen, pikemen, and
many volunteers of valour and good birth, sailed
from the Thames in July, 1490, and entering the
Firth of Forth, came to anchor under the lee of
the Isle of May, there to await the return of Wood
from Sluys, and for whose approach he kept boats
scouting to seaward.
On the morning of the 18th of August the two
ships of Wood hove in sight, and were greeted with
exultant cheers by the crews of Bull, who set
some inlets of wine abroach, and gave the orders
to unmoor and clear away for battle.
Wood recognised the foe, and donninghis armour,
gave orders to clear away too ; and his brief ha-
Iangue, modernised, is thus given by Lindesay of
Pitscottie and others :-
“ My lads, these are the foes who would convey
us in bonds to the foot of an English king, but by
your courage and the help of God they shall fail !
Repair every man to his station-charge home,
gunners-cross-bowmen to the tops-two-handed
swords to the fore-rooms-lime-pots and fire-balls in
the tops ! Be stout, men, and true for the honour
of Scotland and your own sakes. Hurrah!”
Shouts followed, and stoups of wine went round.
His second in command was Sir David Falconer,
who was afterwards slain at Tantallon. The result
of the battle that ensued is well known. It was
continued for two days and a night, during which
the ships were all grappled together, and drifted
into the Firth of Tay, where the English were all
taken, and carried as prizes into the harbour of
Dundee. Wood presented Sir Stephen Bull and
his surviving officers to Jarnes IV., who dismissed
them unransomed, with their ships, “ because they
fought not for gain, but glory,” and Henry dissemkled
his rage by returning thanks.
For this victory Wood obtained the sea town as
well as the nether town of Largo, and soon afteI
his skilful eye recommended the Bay of Gourock ta
James as a capable harbour. In 1503 he led a
fleet against the insurgent chiefs of the Isles. Hi$
many brilliant services lie apart from the immediate
history of Leith. Suffice it to say that he was pre.
I
sent at the battle of Linlithgow in 1526, and
wrapped the dead body of Lennox in his own
scarlet mantle. Age was coming on him after this,
and he retired to his castle of Largo, where he
seems to have lived somewhat like old Commodore
Trunnion, for there is still shown the track of a
canal formed by his order, on which he was rowed
to mass daily in Largo church in a barge by his
old crew, who were all located around him, He is
supposed to have died abodt 1540, and was buried
in Largo church. One of his sons was a senator
of the College of Justice in 1562 ; and Sir Andrew
Wood, third of the House of Largo, was Comptroller
of Scotland in 1585.
Like himself, the Bartons, the shipmates and
friends of Sir -4ndrew, all attained high honour
and fame, though their origin was more distinguished
than his, and they were long remembered
among the fighting captains of Leith.
John Barton, a merchant of Leith in the time of
James III., had three sons : Sir Andrew, the hero
of the famous nautical ballad, who was slain in the
Downs in 151 I, but whose descendants still exist ;
Sir Robert of Overbarnton in 1508, Comptroller
of the Household to James V. in 1520; John, an
eminent naval commander under James 111. and
James IV., who died in t 5 13,and was buried at Kirkcudbright.
The Comptroller’s son Robert married
the heiress of Sir John Mowbray of Barnbougle, who
died in 151 y ; and his descendants became extinct
in the person of Sir Robert of Overbarnton, Barnbougle,
and Inverkeithing. Our authorities for these
and a few other memoranda concerning this old
Leith family are a “Memoir of the Familyof Barton,
&c.,” by J. Stedman, Esq., of Bath (which is scarce,
only twelve copies having been printed), Tytler,
Pinkerton, and others.
For three generations the Bartons of Leith seem
to have had a kind of family war with the Portuguese,
and their quarrel began in the year 1476,
when John Barton, senior, on putting to sea froin
Sluys, in Flanders, in a king’s ship, the ]iZiai’nnn,
laden with a valuable cargo, was unexpectedly
attacked by two armed Portuguese caravels, commanded
respectively by Juan Velasquez and Juan
Pret. The JiZiana was taken ; many of her crew
were slain or captured, the rest were thrust into a
boat and cut adrift. Among the latter was old John
Barton, who proceeded to Lisbon to seek indemnity,
but in vain; and he is said by one account to
have been assassinated by Pret or Velasquez to put
an end to the affair. By another he is stated to have
been alive in 1507, and in command of a ship
called the Liun, which was seized at Campvere, in
Zealand-unless it can be that the John referred to ... The result of the battle that ensued is well known. It was continued for two days and a night, during which the ...

Vol. 6  p. 202 (Rel. 0.39)

Holyrocd.] HOWIESON OF BRAEHEAD. 63
space of one year, with great triumph and mem
ness.” He diligently continued the works begur
by his gallant father, and erected the north-wes
towers, which have survived more than one con
flagration, and on the most northern of which coulc
be traced, till about 1820, his name, IACOBVS RE)
SCOTORVM, in large gilt Roman letters.
In 1528 blood was again shed in Holyrooc
during a great review of Douglases and Hamilton:
held there prior to a march against the Englis€
’borders. A groom of the Earl of Lennox perceiv
ing among those present Sir James Hamilton o
Finnart, who slew that noble at Linlithgow, intent or
vengeance, tracked him into the palace “by a dad
staircase which led to a narrow gallery,” and then
attacked him, sword in hand. Sir James en
deavoured to defend himself by the aid of hi:
. velvet mantle, but fell, pierced by six wounds, nonc
of which, however, were mortal. The gates wen
closed, and while a general mClCe was on the poin
of ensuing between the Douglases and Hamil
tons, the would-be assassin was discovered With hi:
bloody weapon, put to the torture, and then hi:
right hand was cut 04 on which “he observed
with a sarcastic smile, that it was punished les:
than it deserved for having failed to revenge tht
murder of his beloved master.’’
James V. was still in the palace in 1530, as we find
in the treasurer‘s accounts for that year : ‘‘ Item, tc
the Egiptianis that dansit before the king in Holy
rud House, 40s.” He was a monarch whose pure
benevolence of intention often rendered his roman.
tic freaks venial, if not respectable, since from his
anxiety to learn the wants and wishes of his humbler
subjects he was wont, like Il Boadocan4 or Haroun
Alrdschid, to traverse the vicinity of his palaces
in the plainest of disguises ; and two comic songs,
composed by himself, entitled “We’ll gang nae
mair a-roving,” and “The Gaberlunzie Man,” are
said to have been founded on his adventures while
masked as a beggar; and one of these, which
nearly cost him his life at Cramond, some five
miles frum Holyrood, is given in Scott’s ‘‘ Tales of
a Grandfather.”
While visiting a pretty peasant girl in Cramond
village he was beset by four or five persons, against
whom he made a stand with his sword upon the
high and narrow bridge that spans the Almond,
in a wooded hollow. Here, when well-nigh beaten,
and covered with blood, he was succoured and
rescued by a peasant armed with a flail, who conducted
him into a barn, where he bathed his wounds;
and in the course of conversation James discovered
that the summit of his deliverer’s earthly wishes
was to be proprietor of the little farm of Braehead,
on which he was then a labourer. Aware that it was
Crown property, James said, ‘‘ Come to Holyrood,
and inquire for the gudeman of Ballengeich,” referring
to a part of Stirling Castle which he was
wont to adopt as a cognomen.
The peasant came as appointed, and was met
by the king in his disguise, who conducted him
through the palace, and asked him if he wished
to see the king. John Howison-for such was his
name-expressed the joy it would give him, provided
he gave no offence. But how shall I know
him?” he added.
“ Easily,” replied James, “All others will be
bareheaded, the king alone will wear his bonnet.”
Scared by his surroundings and the uncovered
crowd in the great hall, John Howison looked
around him, and then said, naively, “The king
must be either you or me, for all but us are bareheaded.”
James and his courtiers laughed ; but
he bestowed upon Howison the lands of Braehead,
‘‘ on condition that he and his successors should
be ready to present an ewer and basin for the king
to wash his hands when His Majesty should come
to Holyrood or pass the bridge of Cramond.
Accordingly, in the year 1822, when George IV.
came to Scotland, a descendant of John Howison,
whose hmily still possess the estate, appeared at a
solemn festival, and offered His Majesty water from
a silver ewer, that he might perform the service by
which he held his land.”
Such pranks as these were ended by the king‘s marriage
in I 53 7 to the Princess Magdalene, the beautiful
daughter of Francis I., with unwonted splendour in
the cathedral of Notre Dame, in presence of the
Parliament of Paris, of Francis, the Queens of
France and Navarre, the Dauphin, Duke of Orleans,
md all the leading peers of Scotland and o(
France. On the 27th of May the royal pair
landed at Leith, amid every display of welcome,
md remained a few days at Holyrood, tin the
mthusiastic citizens prepared to receive them in
state with a procession of magnificence.
Magdalene, over whose rare beauty consump-
:ion seemed to spread a veil more tender and
rlluring, was affectionate and loving in nature. On
anding, in the excess of her love for James,
;he knelt down, and, kissing the soil, prayed God
:o bless the land of her adoption-scotland, and
ts people.
The “ Burgh Records ” bear witness how anxious
he Provost and citizens were to do honour to the
)ride of ‘‘ the good King James. All beggars were
varned off the streets : ‘lane honest man of ilk
:lose or two,” were to see this order enforced ; the
vbbish near John Makgill’s house and “the litster ... year, with great triumph and mem ness.” He diligently continued the works begur by his gallant father, and ...

Vol. 3  p. 63 (Rel. 0.39)

230 OLD AND NEW EDINBUXGH. [High Street.
‘; two such animals in the whole island of Great
Britain.”
Between the back and front tenements occupied
of old by Andro Hart is a house, once a famous
tavern, which formed the meeting-place of the Cape
Club, one of the most noted of those wherein the
leading men of “ Auld Reekie” were wont to seek
relaxation-one celebrated in Fergusson’s poem on
the city, and where a system of “ high jinks ” was
kept up with an ardour that never abated.
In this tavern, then, the IsZe of Man Arms, kept
by James Mann, in Craig’s Close, the “ Cape
Club” was nightly inaugurated, each member receiving
on his election some grotesque name and
character, which he was expected to retain and
maintain for the future. From its minutes, which
are preserved in the Antiquarian Museum, the club
appears to have been formally constituted in 1764,
though it had existed long before. Its insignia
were a cape, or crown, worn by the Soverezgn of the
Cape on State occasions, when certain other members
wore badges, or jewels of office, and two
maces in the form of huge steel pokers, engraven
with mottoes, and still preserved in Edinburgh,
formed the sword and sceptre of the King in Cape
Hall, when the jovial fraternity met for high jinks,
and Tom Lancashire the comedian, Robert Fergusson
the poet, David Herd, Alexander Runciman,
Jacob More, Walter Ross the antiquary,
Gavin Wilson the poetical shoemaker, the Laird
of Cardrona a ban zivani of the last century, Sir
Henry Raeburn, and, strange to say, the notorious
Deacon Brodie, met round the “flowing bowl.”
Tom Lancashire-on whom Fergusson wrote a
witty epitaph-was the first sovereign of the club
after 1764, as Sir Cape, while the title of Sir Poker
belonged to its oldest member, James Aitken.
David Herd, the ingenious collector of Scottish
ballad poetry, succeeded Lancashire (who was a
celebrated comedian in his day), under the sobriquet
of Sir Scrape, having as secretary Jacob More,
who attained fame as a landscape painter in Rome ;
and doubtless his pencil and that of Runciman, produced
many of the illustrations and caricatures
with which the old MS. books of the club abound.
When a knight of the Cape was inaugurated he
was led forward by his sponsors, and kneeling
before the sovereign, had to grasp the poker, and
take an oath of fidelity, the knights standing by
uncovered :-
.
“ I devoutly swear by this light.
With all my might,
Both day and night,
To be a tme and faithful knight,
So help me Poker !”
The knights presented his Majesty with a contribution
of IOO guineas to assist in raising troops in
1778. The entrance-fee to this amusing club was
originally half-a-crown, and eventually it rose to a
guinea ; but so economical were the mevbers, that
among the last entries in their minutes was one to
the effect that the suppers should be at “the old
price ” of 44d. a head. Lancashire the comedian,
leaving the stage, seems to have eked out a meagre
subsistence by opening in the Canongate a tavern,
where he was kindly patronised by the knights of
the Cape, and they subsequently paid him visits at
“ Comedy Hut, New Edinburgh,” a place of entertainment
which he opened somewhere beyond the
bank of the North Loch ; and soon after this convivial
club-one of the many wherein grave citizens
and learned counsellors cast aside their powdered
wigs, and betook them to what may now seem madcap
revelry in very contrast to the rigid decorum
of everyday life-passed completely away j but a
foot-note to Wilson’s “ Memorials ” informs us that
“ Provincial Cape Clubs, deriving their authority
and diplomas from the parent body, were successively
formed in Glasgow, Manchester, and London,
and in Charleston, South Carolina, each of
which was formally established in virtue of a royal
commission granted by the Sovereign of the Cape.
The American off-shoot of this old Edinburgh fra
ternity is said to be still flourishing in the Southern
States.”
In the “Life of Lord Kames,” by Lord Woodhouselee,
we have an account of the Poker Club,
which held its meetings near this spot, at ‘‘ our old
landlord of the Diversorium, Tom Nicholson’s, near
the cross. The dinner was on the table at two
o’clock ; we drank the best claret and sherry ; and
the reckoning was punctually called at six o’clock.
After the first fifteen, who were chosen by nomination,
the members were elected by ballot, and two
black balls excluded a candidate.”
A political question-on the expediency of establishing
a Scottish militia (while Charles Edward and
Cardinal York were living in Rome)-divided the
Scottish public mind greatly between 1760 and
1762, and gave rise to the club in the latter yean
and it subsisted in vigour and celebrity till 1784,
and continued its weekly meetings with great replarity,
long after the object of its institution had
ceased to engage attention; and it can scarcely be
doubted that its influence was considerable in fostering
talent and promoting elegant literature in
Edinburgh, though the few publications of a literary
nature that had been published under the auspices
of the club were, like most of that nature, ephemeral,
and are now utterly forgotten. ... it subsisted in vigour and celebrity till 1784, and continued its weekly meetings with great replarity, long ...

Vol. 2  p. 230 (Rel. 0.39)

west Port.] BURKE AND HARE. 227
by a distinguished anatomist for the body of a poor
old pensioner, named Donald, who died in their
hands, a short time before his pension became due.
Hare, who expected to be reimbursed for A4 owing
to him by Donald, was exasperated by the loss,’and
filling the coffin with bark from the adjacent
tannery, it was buried, while the corpse in a sack
was carried alternately by Burke and Hare, through
College Street, to Surgeon Square, and sold for
seven pounds ten shillings, to Dr. Knox and his
assistants.
The money so easily won seemed to exert a
magnetic influence over the terrible quaternion in
Tanner‘s Close. The women foresaw that other
lodgers mz@ die, and hoped to flaunt in finery
before the poor denizens of the Portsburgh ; and
the steady and studied career of assassination began,
and was continued, by Burke’s own confession,
from Christmas, 1827, to the end of October, 1828.
-( Week&JoumaZ, Jan. 6th, 1829.)
The modus ojei-avzdi was very simple: the unknown
and obscure wayfarer was lured into the
“ lodging-house,” weary and hungry, perhaps, then
generally well dosed with coarse raw whisky, preparatory
to strangulation, glass after glass being
readily and cordially filled in contemplation .of
the value of the future corpse, as in the case of
one unfortunate creature named Mary Haldane.
Then, ‘‘ all is ready-the drooping head-the
closing eye-the languid helpless body. The women
get the hint. They knew the unseemliness of
being spectators-nay, they were delicate ! A
repetition of a former scene, only with even less
resistance. Hare holds again the lips, and Burke
presses his twelve stone weight on the chest.
Scarcely a sigh; but on a trial if dead a long
gurgling indraught More is not required-and
all is still in that dark room, with the window
looking out on the dead wall.” By twelve the
same night the body of Mary Haldane was in the
hands of “the skilled anatomist,” who made no
inquiries; and as thb supply from Log‘s lodgings
increased, the value for each subject seemed to
increase also, as the partners began to get from
6 1 2 to A14 for each-nearly double what they
had received for the body of the poor Highland
pensioner.
The attempt to rehearse in detail all the crimes
of which these people were guilty, would only weary
and revolt the reader. Suffice it to say, that the
discovery of the dead body of a woman, quite nude,
and with her face covered with blood, among some
straw in an occupied house of Burke and another
Irishman named Broggan, caused the arrest of the
four suspects. Hare turned King‘s evidence, and
on the 24th December, 1828, amid such excitement
as Edinburgh had not witnessed for ages, William
Burke and Helen McDougal were arraigned at the
bar of the Justiciary Court, charged with a succession
of murders ! Among these were the murder
of a very handsome girl named Mary Paterson in
the house of Burke’s brother, Constantine Burke, a
scavenger residing in Gibb’s Close, Canongate ;
that of a well-knowp idiot, named James Wilson
(“Daft Jamie”), at the house in Tanner’s Close; of
Mary McGonegal, or Docherty, at the same place.
These were selected for proof as sufficient in the
indictment j but the real lit was never known or
exhausted. Among the cases was supposed to
be that of a little Italian boy named Ludovico,
who went about the city with white mice. Two
little white mice were seen for long after haunting
the dark recesses of Tanner‘s Close, and in Hare’s
house a cage with the mice’s tuming-wheel was
actually found. Of this murder Burke was supposed
to be guiltless, and that it had been a piece of
private business done by Hare on his own account.
The libel contained a list of a great number of
articles of dress, &c., worn or used by the various
victims, and among other things were Daft Jamie’s
brass snuff-box and spoon, objects which excited
much interest, as Jamie was a favourite with the
citizens, and his body must have been recognised
by Dr. Knox the instant he saw it on the dissecting
table. The presiding judge of the court was the Lard
Justice-clerk Boyle; the others were the Lords
Pitmilly, Meadowbank, and M‘Kenzie ; the prosecutor
was Sir Wdiam Rae, Lord Advocate. The
counsel for Burke was the Dean of Faculty ; that
for M‘Dougal the celebrated Henry Cockburn.
The witnesses were fifty-five in number-the two
principal being Hare and the woman Log, received
as evidence in the characters of soni’ mininis.
When all had been examined, and the cases were
brought fatally home to Burke, while his paramour
escaped with a verdict of “not proven,” a loud
whisper ran through the court of (‘ Where are the
doctors ?” as it was known the names of Knox and
others were placed on the back of the indictment
as witnesses ; yet they could scarcely have appeared
but at the risk of their lives, so high was the tide
of popular indignation against them.
Burke was sentenced to death in the usual form,
the Lord Justice-clerk expressing regret that his
body could not be gibbeted in chains, but was to
be publicly’dissected, adding, “and I trust that if
it is ever customary to preserve skeletons yours will
be preserved, in order that posterity may keep in
remembrance your atrocious crimes.” So the
body of Burke was sent appropriately where he ... and studied career of assassination began, and was continued , by Burke’s own confession, from Christmas, ...

Vol. 4  p. 227 (Rel. 0.39)

250 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate.
CHAPTER XXXII.
C0WGATE 
The South Side of the Street--The High School Wynd-“ Claudero”-Robertson’s Close-House of the Bishops of Dnnkeld-Tomb of Gavin
Douglas-Kuk-of-Field and College Wynd-House of the Earls of Queensberq-Robcrt Monteith-Oliver Goldsmith-Dr. Joseph Black
-House in which Sir Walter Swtt was born-St. Petu‘s Pad-House of Andro Symmi, the Printer, 1@7-The Horse Wynd-
Galloway House-Guthrie Stract-Tailors’ Hall-French Ambassador’s Chapel and John Dickison’s House-Tam 0’ the Cowgate and Jam-
VI.-The Hammermen’s Land and Hall-Magdalenc Chapel-John Craig-A Glance at the Ancient Corporations-The Hammumen-
Their Charter--Seal and Pmgress-The Cardin-First Strike in the Trade-Skinners and Furriers-Websters-Hat and Bonnetm
a L e r s - F l e s h e r s - C w ~ o p e r s T a i l o r s C o n d k - m n L .
PROCEEDING westward from the point we have
left, the mutilated range of buildings on the south
side, between George Heriot’s School (the site of
the old Cowgate Port) and the foot of what was
the High School Wynd, show fragments of what
were, in their day, exceedingly picturesque old
timber-fronted tenements, of a very early date, but
which were far inferior in magnificence to the Mint
which stood opposite to them This Wynd was
originally a narrow and rather lonely road or path,
that led towards the Dominican monastery, and
westward to the house of the Kirk-of-Field. A
finely-carved lintel, which surmounted the doorway
of an antique range of tenements, is described
by Wilson, as having been replaced over the
entrance of a modem building erected on the same
site in 1801. The inscription, he shows, cut in
very unusual character, having in the centre a
shield charged with a barrel, the device of its more
recent occupant, a brewer, substituted for the
armorial bearings of his predecessors :-
AL. MY. TRIST . I - S. IN. YE. LORD.
‘‘ We have found,” he adds, U on examining ancient
charters and title-deeds refemng to property in the
Cowgate, much greater difficulty in assigning the
exact tenements referred to, from the absence of
such marked and easily recognisable features as
serve for a guide in the High Street and Canongate.
All such evidence, however, tends to prove that
the chief occupants of this ancient thoroughfare
were eminent for rank and station, and their dwellings
appear to have been chiefly in the front street,
showing that, with patrician exclusiveness, traders
were forbid to open their booths within its dignified
precincts.”
Latterly the High School Wynd was chiefly remarkable
for the residence, in an old tenement at
its foot, of an obscure local poet, whose real name
was Tames Wilson, but whose num de plume was
Claudero,” and who by his poetic effusions upon
local subjects continued to eke out a precarious
subsistence, frequently by furnishing sharp lampoons
on his less gifted fellow-citizens. He latterly added
to his income by keeping a little school, and by
performing (‘ AaCf-merk marriages, an occupation
which, no doubt, afforded him additional satisfaction,
as he was thereby taking their legitimate
duties out of the hands of his old enemies the
clergy,” for Claudero, who was a cripple, is said to
have been rendered so, in youth, by a merciless
beating he received from “ the pastoral staff ” of
the minister of his native parish, Cumbernauld, in
Dumbartonshire. A satirist by profession, Claudero
made himself a source of terror by his pungent
wit, for in the Edinburgh of the eighteenth century
there lived a number of wealthy old men who had
realised large fortunes in questionable manners
abroad, and whose characters, as they laboured
under strange suspicions of the slave trade-even
buccaneering perhaps-“ were wonderfully suscep
tible of Claudero’s satire ; and these, the wag,” we
are told, “ used to bleed profusely and frequently,
by working upon their fears of public notice.”
In 1766 appeared his “Miscellanies in Prose
and Verse, by Claudero, son of Nimrod the mighty
Hunter,” dedicated to the renowned Peter Williamson,
“from the other world.” In this volume are
“The Echo of the Royal Porch of Holyrood,”
demolished in 1753 ; “The last Speech and Dying
Words of the Cross,I) executed, &c., “for the
horrid crime of being an encumbrance to the
street ;” “ Scotland’s Tears over the Horrid Treatment
of her Kings’ Sepulchres ; ” “ A Sermon on
the Condemnation of the Netherbow ; ” and other
kindred subjects. With all his eccentricity, Claudero
seems to have felt genuine disgust at the wanton
destruction of many beautiful and historical
edifices and monuments in Edinburgh, under the
reckless fiat of a magistracy of the most tasteless
age in British history-the epoch of George
111. In the year 1755 he was wandering about
London, but returned to Edinburgh, where he
lived for thirty years consecutively, and died in
The wynd led straight up the slope to the old
High School, which with its tower and spire stood
on the east side of it Robertson’s Close adjoined
it on the west-in 1647, a long and straight street,
with lofty houses on both sides, and spacious
1789- ... and who by his poetic effusions upon local subjects continued to eke out a precarious subsistence, ...

Vol. 4  p. 250 (Rel. 0.39)

378 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Duddingston.
were the Duke of Buccleuch, the Earl of Errol, the
Earl of Dalhousie, the Earl of Roden, Lord Elcho,
Couqt Piper, Sir John Stuart, Sir William Forbes,
Admiral Purves, Sir James Hall, the Countesses of
Errol and Dalhousie, Lady Charlotte Campbell
(the famous beauty), Lady Elizabeth Rawdon,
M y Helen Hall, Lady Stuart, Lady Fettes, Admiral
Vashon (who conquered the Jygate pirates), and
a great number of naval and military gentlemen,
most of the judges, &c. The saloon was brilliantly
fitted up with festoons of flowers, and embellished
with a naval pillar, on which were the names ol
Howe, Duncan,‘.% Yincent, and NeZsun. The
dancing commenced at ten dclock, and was continued
till two in the morning.”
In this year the earl also had a residence in
Queen Street (where Lady Charlotte Campbell also
resided in Argyle House), but whether it was there
or at Duddingston that his daughter, the celebrated
Lady Flora Hastings, was born, there are now nc
means of ascertaining, as no other record of he1
birth seems to remain but its simple announcemeni
in the Scots Magazine: “At Edinburgh, 11th
March,. 1806, the Countess of Loudon and Moira
of a daughter.” The story of this amiable and
unfortunate lady, her poetical talent, and the inhumanity
with which she was treated at Court, are toc
well known to need more than mention here, On
his appointment as Govemor-General‘ of India,
in 1813, the earl, to the regret of all Scotland,
bade farewell to it, and, as the song has it, tc
‘( Loudon’s bonnie woods and braes,” whither he
did not return till the summer of 1823 ; he was then
seventy-one years of age, but still erect and soldierly
in form, “The marchioness is forty-six,” says the
editor of the Free Press on this occasion, :’and seem:
to have suffered little from the scorching climate.
She has all the lady in her appearance-modest,
dignified, kind, and affectionate. Lady Flora is a
young lady of most amiable disposition, miid and
attractive manners.” The earl died and was buried
at Malta ; but Lady Flora lies beside her mother in
the family vault at Loudon, where she was laid in
1839, in her thirty-third year. An edition of he1
poems, seventy in number, many of them full 01
touching pathos and sweetness, was published in
1842 by her sister, who says in her preface thal
the profits of the volume would be dedicated ‘‘ tc
the service of God in the parish where her mother’s
family have so long resided . . . . to aid in
the erection of a school in the parish of Loudon, a
an evidence of her gratitude to Almighty God
and her good will to her fellow creatures.”
Prior to the purchase of Sandringham, the estate
of Duddingston, it is said, would have been pur.
chased by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, but for
some legal difficulties that were in the way.
At the south-east end of Duddingston Loan,
where the road turns off tqwards the Willow Brae
and Parson’s Green,. stands, at the point of the
eastern slope of Arthur’s Seat, Cauvin’s Hospital,
the founder of which, Louis Cauvin (Chauvin or
Calvin),was a teacher of French in Edinburgh, whose
parents were Louis Cauvin and Margaret Edgar.
“ It is not correctly ascertained,” says Kay’s editor,
‘‘ on what account the father was induced to leave
his native country and settle in the metropolis
of Scotland. According to some accounts, he was
forced to expatriate himself, in consequence of
the fatal issue of a duel in which he had been
implicated. According to others, he was brought
over to Edinburgh as a witness in the ‘Douglas
Cause,’ having seived in the capacity of a fcotman
in the family of Lady Jane Douglas for a
considerable time during her residence in Paris.
A portrait of him in his youth, in military garb, is
still preserved.”
After teaching for a time, he became tenant of a
small farm near the hamlet of Jock‘s Lodge, where
he died in 1778, and was buried in Restalrig.
His son Louis, after being educated at the High
School and the Universities of Edinburgh and of
Paris, became a teacher of French in the former
city, where he retired from work in 1818 with a
handsome fortune, realised by his own exertions.
Imitating his father, for twenty years before relinquishing
his scholastic labours he rented a large
farm in Duddingston, now named the Woodlands,
and during his occupation of it he built, on the
opposite side of the Loan, then, as now, wooded
and bordered by hedges, the house of Louisfield,
which forms the central portion of his hospital. He
died in 1824, and was laid beside his father in
Restalrig.
By a codicil to his will, dated Duddingston
Farm, 28th April, 1823, he thus arranges for his
sepu1ture:-“My corpse isto bedeposited in Restalrig
churchyard, and watched for a proper time.
The door of the tomb must be taken off, and the
space built up strongly with ashlar stones. The tomb
must be shut forever,and never to be opened There
is a piece of marble on the tomb door, which I put
up in memory of my father ; all I wish is that there
may be put below it an inscription mentioning the
time of my death. I beg and expect that my
trustees will order all that is written above to be
put in execution.”
The hospital he founded resembles a large and
elegant villa, and was opened in 1833, for the
maintenance of twenty boys, sons of teachers and ... and NeZsun. The dancing commenced at ten dclock, and was continued till two in the morning.” In this year ...

Vol. 4  p. 318 (Rel. 0.38)

50 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Edinburgh Castlc.
brother Sir James, with two burgesses of the City,
were drawn backwards in carts to the market
cross, where they were hanged, and their heads
were placed upon the ruined castle walls. Within
the latter were found twenty-two close carts for
ammunition, and 2,400 cannon balls.
The whole gamson were thrust into the dungeons
of adjacent castles in the county; and four soldiers-
Glasford, Stewart, Moffat, and Millar-“declared
traitors ” for having assisted Kirkaldy “ in
the demolishing and casting down of the bigginis,
showting great and small peissis, without fear of
God or remorse of conscience,“ had to do public
penance at one of the doors of St. Giles’s for
three days ‘‘ cleid in sack cleith.” *
The Regent made his brother, George Douglas
of Parkhead (one of the assassins of Rizzio),
governor, and he it was who built the present half- . moon battery, and effected other repairs, so that
a plan still preserved shows that by 1575 the fortress
had in addition thereto eight distinct towep,
facing the town and south-west, armed by forty
pieces of cannon. exclusive of Mons Meg, arquebusses,
and cut-throats. Over the new gate Morton
placed, above the royal arms, those of his own
family, a fact which was not forgotten when he lost
his head some years after.
In 1576, Alexander Innes of that ilk being
summoned to Edinburgh concerning a lawsuit with
a clansman, Innes of Pethknock, met the latter
by chance near the market cross-then the chief
promenade-and amid high words struck him dead
with his dagger, and continued to lounge quietly
near the body. He was made prisoner in the
Castle, and condemned to‘lose his head; but procured
a remission from the corrupt Regent by
relinquishing one of his baronies, and gave an
entertainment to all his friends. “If I had my
foot once loose,” said he, vauntingly, ‘‘I would
fain see if this Earl of Morton dare take possession
of my land!” This, though a jest, was repeated
to Morton, who retained the bond for the barony,
but, according to the history of the Innes family,
had the head of Innes instantly struck off within
the fortress.
So odious became the administration of Morton
that, in 1578, James VI., though only twelve years
of age, was prevailed upon by Argyle and Athole
to summon the peers, assume the government, and
dismiss Morton, an announcement made by heralds
at the cross on the 12th of March, under three
salutes from the new half-moon ; but it was not
until many scuffles with the people, culminating in
Keith’s “Register”; “Maitknd Club nIiiellury.”
a deadly brawl which roused the whole city in arms
and brought the craftsmen forth with morions,
plate sleeves, and steel jacks, and when the entire
High Street bristled with pikes and Jedwood axes,
that Parkhead, when summoned, gave up the fortress
to the Earl of Mar, to whom the Ezrl of Morton
delivered the regalia and crown jewels, conformably
to an ancient inventory, receiving in return a
pardon for all his misdemeanours-a document
that failed to save him, when, in 1580, he was condemned
and found guilty of that crime for which
he had put so many others to death-the murder
of Darnley-and had his head struck off by the
“Maiden,” an instrument said to be of his own adop
tion, dying unpitied amid the execratidns of assembled
thousands. Calderwood relates that as he
was being conducted captive to the Castle, a woman,
whose husband he had put to death, cursed him
loudly on her bare knees at the Butter Tron. His
head was placed on a port of the city.
From this period till the time of Charles I. little
concerning the Castle occurs in the Scottish annals,
save the almost daily committal of State prisoners
to its dungeons, some of which are appalling
places, hewn out of the living rock, and were then
destitute nearly of all light. From one of these,
Mowbray of Barnbougle, incarcerated in 1602 for
slaying a servant of James VI. in the palace of
Dunfermline, in attempting to escape, fell headlong
through the air, and was dashed on the stony
pathway that led to the Royal Mews 300 feet
below. His body was quartered, and placed on the
Cross, Rether Bow, Potter Row, and West Ports.
In May, 1633, Charles I. visited the capital of’
his native country, entering it on the 16th by the
West Port, amid a splendour of many kinds ; and
on the 17th, under a salute of fifty-two guns, he
proceeded to the Castle attended by sixteen.
coaches and the Horse Guards. He remained in
the royal lodgings one night, and then returned
to Holyrood. On the 17th of June he was again
in the Castle, when the venerable Earl of Mar gave
a magnificent banquet in the great hall, where
many of the first nobles in Scotland and England
were, as Spalding states, seated on each side
of Charles. To that hall he was conducted next
morning, and placed on a throne under avelvet
canopy, by the Duke of Lennox, Lord High
Chamberlain of Scotland. The peers of the realm
then entered in procession wearing their crimson
velvet robes, each belted with his sword, and with
his coronet borne before him. The Chancellor,
Viscount Dupplin, addressed him in the name of the
Parliament. Charles was then conducted to the gate,
from whence began a procession to Holyrood ... amid high words struck him dead with his dagger, and continued to lounge quietly near the body. He was made ...

Vol. 1  p. 50 (Rel. 0.38)

62 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
vestments, bearing the arm-bone of the saint ; then
they passed the Cross, the fountain of which flowed
with wine, “ whereof all might drink,” says Leland.
Personages representing the angel Gabriel, the
Virgin, Justice treading Nero under foot, Force
bearing a pillar, Temperance holding a horse’s
bit, and Prudence triumphing over Sardanapalus,
met them at the Nether Bow; and from there,
preceded by music, they proceeded to Holyrood,
where a glittering crowd of ecclesiastics, abbots,
and friars, headed by the Archbishop of St. Andrews,
conveyed them to the high altar, and after
Te Deum was sung, they passed through the
cloisters into the new palace. Fresh ceremonies
took place in a great chamber thereof, the arras
of which represented Troy, and the coloured windows
of which were filled with the arms of Scotland
and England, the Bishop of Moray acting
as master of the ceremonies, which seems to have
included much ‘‘ kyssing ” all round.
On the 8th of August the marriage took place,
and all the courtiers wore their richest apparel,
James sat in a chair of crimson velvet, “the pannels
of that sam gylte under hys cloth of estat, of blue
velvet figured with gold.” On his right hand was
the Archbishop of York, on his left the Earl of
Surrey, while the Scottish prelates and nobles led
in the girl-queen, crowned “with a vary nche
crowne of gold, garnished with perles,” to the high
altar, where, amid the blare of trumpets, the Archbishop
of Glasgow solemnised the marriage. The
banquet followed in a chamber hung with red and
blue, where the royal pair sat under a canopy of
cloth of gold ; and Margaret was served at the first
course with a slice from “ a wyld borres hed gylt,
within a fayr platter.” Lord Grey held the ewer
and Lord Huntly the towel.
The then famous minstrels of Aberdeen came
to Holyrood to sing on this occasion, and were
all provided with silver badges, on which the arms
of the granite city were engraved.
Masques and tournaments followed. James,
skilled in all the warlike exercises of the time,
appeared often in the lists as the savage knight,
attended by followers dressed as Pans and satyrs.
The festivities which accompanied this mamage
indicate an advancement in refinement and splehdour,
chiefly due to the princely nature kindness,
and munificence of James IV.
‘‘ The King of Scotland,” wrote the Spanish ambassador
Don Pedro de Ayala, “is of middle
height ; his features are handsome ; he never cuts
his hair or beard, and it becomes him well. He
expressed himself gracefully in Latin, French, German,
Flemish, Italian, and Spanish. His pronunciation
of Spanish was clearer than that of other
foreigners. In addition to his own, he speaks
the language of the savages (or Celts) who live
among the distant mountains and islands. The
books which King James reads most are the Bible
and those of devotion and prayer. He also studies.
old Latin and French chronicles. . . . , . .
He never ate meat on Wednesday, Friday, or
Saturday. He would not for any consideration
mount horseback on Sunday, not even to go to
mass, Before transacting any business he heard twa
masses. In the smallest matters, and even when
indulging in a joke, he always spoke the truth. . . . . The Scots,” continues De Ayala, “are
often considered in Spain to be handsomer, than the
English. The women of quality were free in their
manners and courteous to strangers The Scottish
ladies reign absolute mistresses in their own. houses,
and the men in all domestic matters yield a.
chivalrous obedience to them. The people live
well, having plenty of beef, mutton, fowl, and fish.
The humbler classes-the women especially-are of
a very religious turn of mind. Altogether, I found,
the Scots to be a very agreeable and, I must add,,
an amiable people.”
Such, says the author of the ‘‘ Tudor Dynasty,”’
was the Scotland of the sixteenth century, a period
described by modem writers as one of barbarism,
ignorance, and superstition ; but thus it was the
Spanish ambassador painted the king and his,
Scots of the days of Flodden.
“ In the year 1507,” says Hawthornden, “James,
Prince of Scotland and the Isles, was born at
Holyrood House the 21st of January,” and the
queen being brought nigh unto death, “the king,
overcome by affection and religious vows,” went
on a pilgrimage to St. Ninian’s in Galloway, and
(‘ at his return findeth the queen recovered.”
In 1517 we read of a brawl in Holyrood, when
James Wardlaw, for striking Robert Roger to the
effusion of blood within ‘‘ my Lord Governor’s chalmer
and palace of pece,” was conveyed to the
Tron, had his hand stricken through, and was.
banished for life, under pain of death.
The governor was the Regent Albany, who took
office after Flodden, and during his residence at
Holyrood he seems to have proceeded immediately
with the works at the palace which the fatal battle
had interrupted, and which James IV. had continued
till his death. The accounts of the treasurer
show that building was in progress then, throughout
the years 1515 and 1516 ; and after Albany
quitted the kingdom for the last time, James V.
came to Holyrood, where he was crowned in 1524,
and remained there, as Pitscottie tells, for “the ... fatal battle had interrupted, and which James IV. had continued till his death. The accounts of the ...

Vol. 3  p. 62 (Rel. 0.38)

The Secoud High SchooLl DR ADAM. 293
Alexander Adam, LLD., with this seminary,
when he was appointed joint-rector with Alexander
Matheson, who died in Merchant‘s Court in 1799;
and of the many distinguished men who have presided
over it, few have left a higher reputation for
learning behind them.
Born at the Coates of Burghie in Elgin, in 1741,
he was the son of humble parents, whose poverty
was such, that during the winter mornings, in boy.
hood, he conned his little Elzevir edition of Livy
and other tasks by the light of bog-splinters found
in the adjacent morass, having to devote to manual
labour the brighter hours of day. In 1757 he
obtained a bursary at Aberdeen, and after attending
a free course of lectures at the Edinburgh University,
he was employed at the sum of one guinea per
quarter, in the family of Alan Maconochie, afterwards
Lord Meadowbank “At this time,” says
Anderson in his biography of Adam, “he lodged
in a small room at Restalrig, for which he paid
fourpence per week. His breakfast consisted 01
oatmeal porridge with small beer ; his dinner often
of a penny loaf and a drink of water.” Yet, at the
age of nineteen, so high were his attainments, he
obtained-after a competitive examination-the
head-mastership of Watson’s Hospital ; and %I
1765, by the influence of the future Lord Provost
Kincaid, he became joint-rector of the High
School with Mr. Matheson, whose increasing infirmities
compelled him to retire on a small annuity ;
and thus, on the 8th of June, 1768, Adam succeeded
him as sole rector, and most assiduously
did he devote himself to his office.
To him the school owes much of its high reputation,
and is entirely indebted for the introduction
of Greek, which he achieved in 1772, in spite ol
the powerful opposition of the Senatus Academicus.
Into his class he introduced a new Latin grammar
of his own composition, as a substitute for Ruddiman’s,
causing thereby a dispute between himseU
and the masters, and also the Town Council, in
defiance of whose edict on the subject in 1786 he
continued to use his own rules till they ceased to
interfere with him. In 1780 the degree of LL.D.
was conferred upon him by the College of Edinburgh,
chiefly at the suggestion of Principal
Robertson ; and before his death he had the satisfiction
of seeing his own grammar finally adopted
in the seminary to which he had devoted himself.
By 1774 it was found that the ancient school
house, built in 1578, was incapable of accommodating
the increased number of pupils ; its unsuitable
state had frequently been brought before the
magistrates ; but lack of revenue prevented them
from applying the proper remedy of the growing evil.
At last several of the leading citizens, including
among others, Sir William Forbes, Bart., of Pitsligo,
Professor John Hope, William Dalrymple, and Alexander
Wood, surgeon, set afoot a subscription list to
build a new school, and on March 8, 1775, the
Council contributed thereto 300 guineas. The Duke
of Buccleuchgave 500, LordChancellor Wedderburn,
100, and eventually the sum of L2,ooo was raised
-but the building cost double that sum ere it was
finished-and plans were prepared by Alexander
Laing, architect. The managers of the Royal
Infirmary presented the projectors with a piece of
ground from their garden to enlarge the existing
area, and the Corporation of Surgeons also granted
a piece from the garden before their hall.
On the 24th June, 1777, the foundation-stone of
the second High School was laid by Sir William
Forbes, as Grand Master Mason of Scotland. The
procession, ,which was formed in the Parliament
Square,-and which included all the learned bodies
in the city, .moved off in the following order :-
The magistrates in their robes of office ; the Principal
of the University(Kobertson, the historian) and
the professors in their academic gowns ; the Rector
Adams in his gown at the head of his class, the
scholars marching by threes-the smallest boys in
front ; the four masters, each with his class in the
same order ; sixteen masonic lodges, and all the
noblesse of the city. There was no South Bridge
then; so down the High Street and Blackfriars
Wynd, and from the Cowgate upward, the procession
wound to the High School yard.
The total length of the building erected on this
occasion-but now turned to other nses-was a
hundred and twenty feet long, by thirty-eight. The
great hall, which was meant for prayers, measured
sixty-eight feet by thirty, and at each end was a
library of thirty-two feet by twenty. The second
floorwas divided into five apartments or class-rooms,
with a ceiiing of seventeen feet. It was all built of
smoothly-dressed ashlar, and had a Doric portico of
four columns, with a pediment.
This, then, was the edifice most intimately-associated
with the labours of the learned Rector
Adams, and one of the chief events in the history
of which was the enrolment of Sir Walter Scott as
a scholar there when the building was barely two
years old.
‘‘ In 1779,” says Sir Walter in his Autobiography,
“I was sent to the second class of the grammar
school, or High School, then taught by Mr. Luke
Fraser, a good Latin scholar and a very worthy man.
Though I had received with my brothers, in private,
lessons of Latin from Mr. James French, now a
minister of the Kirk of Scotland, I was nevertheless ... in defiance of whose edict on the subject in 1786 he continued to use his own rules till they ceased ...

Vol. 4  p. 293 (Rel. 0.38)

102 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Galton Hill,
thirteenth century, it was not until 1518, when the
Provost James, Earl of Arran, and the Bailies of the
city, conveyed by tharter, under date 13th April, to
John Malcolme, Provipcial of the Carmelites, and
his successors, their lands of Greenside, and the
chapel or kirk of the Holy Cross there, The
latter had been an edifice built at some remote
period, of which no record now remains, but it
served as the nucleus of this CarmeIite monastery,
nearly the last of the religious foundations in
Scotland prior to the Reformation.
In December, 1520, the Provost (Robert Logan
.of Coatfield), the 3ailies and Council, again con-
Jerred the ground and place of “ the Greensyde to
the Freris Carmelitis, now beand in the Ferry, for
their reparation and bigging to be maid,” and Sir
Thomas Cannye was constituted chaplain thereof.
From this it would appear that the friary had
,been in progress, and that till ready for their
Teception the priests were located at the Queens-
.ferry, most probably in the Carmelite monastery
built there in 1380 by Sir George Dundas of
that ilk. . In October, 1525, Sir Thomas, chaplain
.of the pkce and kirk of the Rood of Greenside,
got seisin “thairof be the guid town,”
.and delivered the keys into the hands of the
magistrates in favour of Friar John Malcolmson,
.‘‘Jro mareraZZ (sic) of the ordour,”
In 1534, two persons, named David Straiton
and Norman Gourlay, the latter a priest, were
tried for heresy and sentenced to be burned at
the stake. On the 27th of August they were
d e d to the Rood of Greenside, and there suffered
.that terrible death. After the suppression of the
-order, the buildings mus, have been tenantless
until 1591, when they were converted into a
hospital for lepers, founded by John Robertson,
a benevolent merchant of the city, “pursuant to
a vow on his receiving a signal mercy from God.”
“ At the institution of this hospital,” says Arnot,
.‘‘ seven lepers, all of them inhabitants of Edinburgh,
were admitted in one day. The seventy of the
lregulations which the magistrates appointed to be
.observed by those admitted, segregating them
from the rest of mankind, and commanding them
to remain within its walls day and night, demonstrate
the loathsome and infectious nature of the
distemper.” A gallows whereon to hang those
who violated the rules was erected at one end of
the hospital, and even to open its gate between
sunset and sunrise ensured the penalty of death.
It is a curious circumstance that, though not a
stone remains of the once sequestered Carmelite
monastery, there is still perpetuated, as in the case
of the abbots of Westminster, in the convent of the
Carmelites at Rome, an official who bears the title
of IZ Padre Priore rii Greenside. (“Lectures on
the Antiquities of Edin.,” 184s.)
In- the low valley which skirts the north-eastern
base of the hill, now occupied by workshops and
busy manufactories, was the place for holding
tournaments, open-air plays, and revels.
In 1456 King James 11. granted under his
great seal, in favour of the magistrates and community
of the city and their successors for ever,
the valley and low ground lying betwixt the rock
called Cragingalt on the east, and the common
way and passage on the west (now known as Greenside)
for performing thereon tournaments, sports,
and other warlike deeds, at the pleasure of the
king and his successors. This grant was &ted
at Edinburgh, 13th of August, in presence of the
Bishops of St, Andrews and Brechin, the Lords
Erskine, Montgomery, Darnley, Lyle, and others,
This place witnessed the earIiest efforts of the
dramatic muse in Scotland, for many of those pieces
in the Scottish language by Sir David Lindesay,
such as his ‘‘ Pleasant Satyre of the Three Estaits,”
were acted in the play field there, “when weather
served,” between 1539 and 1544 ; but in consequence
of the tendency of these representations to
expose the lives of the Scottish clergy, by a council
of the Church, held at the Black Friary in March,
1558, Sir David‘s books were ordered to be burned
by the public executioner.
“ The Pleasant Satyre ” was played at Greenside,
in 1544, in presence of the Queen Regent, “as is
mentioned,” says Wilson, “by Henry Charteris, the
bookseller, who sat patiently nine hours on the
bank to witness the play. It so far surpasses any
effort of contemporary English dramatists, that it
renders the barrenness of the Scottish muse in .
this department afterwards the more apparent.”
Ten years subsequent a new place would seem
to have been required, as we find in the “Burgh
Records” in 1554, the magistrates ordaining their
treasurer, Robert Grahame, to pay ‘‘ the Maister
of Werke the soume of xlij Zi xiij s iiij d, makand
in hale the soume of IOO merks, and that to
complete the play field, now bigging in the
Greensid.”
This place continued to be used as the scene of
feats of arms until the reign of Mary, and there,
Pennant relates, Bothwell first attracted her attention,
by leaping his horse into the ring, after
galioping “down the dangerous steeps of the
the adjacent hill ”-a very apocryphal story. Until
the middle-of the last century this place was all
unchanged. “ In my walk this evening,” he writes
in 1769, “I passed by a deep and wide hollow
‘ ... the play field, now bigging in the Greensid.” This place continued to be used as the scene of feats of arms ...

Vol. 3  p. 102 (Rel. 0.38)

242 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Cowgate.
mentioned as residents in it in 1501. He was
Provost in 1425, and was succeeded in 1434 by
Sir Henry Preston of Craigmillar.
Other alleys are mentioned as having existed
in the sixteenth century : Swift’s Wynd, Aikman’s
Close, and “the Eirle of Irgyllis Close,” in the
Dean of Guild’s Accounts in 1554, and Blacklock‘s
Close, where the unfortunate Earl of Northumberland
was lodged in the house of Alexander Clarke,
when he was betrayed into the hands of the
Regent Moray in December, 1569. ,In a list of
citizens, adherents of Queen Mary, in ’1571, are two
glassier-wnghts, one of them named Steven Loch,
probably the person commemorated in Stevenlaw’s
Close, in the High Street.
From Palfrey’s bustling inrrj at the Cowgate-head,
the Dunse fly was wont to take its departure
twice weekly at 8 a.m in the beginning of the
century; and in 1780 some thirty carriers’ wains
arrived there and departed weekly. Wilson says
that “Palfrey’s, or the King‘s Head Inn, is a fine
antique stone land of the time of Charles I. An
inner court is enclosed by the buildings behind,
and it long remained one of the best frequented
inns in old Edinburgh, being situated at the junktion
of two of the principal approaches to the town
from the south and west.”
In this quarter MacLellan’s Land, No. 8, a lofty
tenement which forms the last in the range of
houses on the north side of the street, has peculiar
interest from its several associations. Towards the
middle of the last century this edifice-the windows
of which look straight up the Candlemaker-rowhad
as the occupant of its third floor Mrs. Syme, a
clergyman’s widow, with whom the father of Lord
Brougham came to lodge, and whose daughter became
his wife and the lady of Brougham Hall.
He died in 1810, and is buried in Restalrig churchyard.
Mrs. Broughain’s maiden aunt continued to
reside in this house at the Cowgate-head till a
period subsequent to 1794.
In his father’s house, one of the flats in Mac-
Lellan’s Land, Henry Mackenzie, “the Man of
Feeling,” resided at one time with his Wife and
family.
In the flat immediately below Mrs. Syme dwelt
Bailie John Kyd, a wealthy wine merchant, who
made no small noise in the city, and who figures
among Kay’s etchings. He was a Bailie of 1769,
and Dean of Guild in 1774.
So lately as 1824 the principal apartments in
No. 8 were occupied by an aged journeyman
printer, the father of John Nimmo, who became
conspicuous as the nominal editor of the Beacon,
as his name appeared to many of the obnoxious
articles therein. This paper soon made itself
notorious by its unscrupulous and scurrilous nature,
and its attacks on the private character of the
leading Whig nobles and gentlemen in Scotland,
which ended in Stuart of Dunearn horsewhipping
Mr. Stevenson in the Parliament Square. The
paper was eventually suppressed, and John Nimmo,
hearing of the issue of a Speaker’s warrant against
him, after appearing openly at the printing office
near the old back stairs to the Parliament House,
fled the same day from Leith in a smack, and did
not revisit Edinburgh for thirty-one years. He
worked long as a journeyman printer in the service
of the great Parisian house of M. Didot, and for
forty years he formed one of the staff of Ga&-
nanr’s Messenger, from which he retired with a
pension to Asni’eres, where he died in his eightysixth
year in February, 1879.
In this quarter of the Cowgate was born, in 1745,
Dr. James Graham (the son of a saddler), who was
a man of some note in his time as a lecturer and
writer on medical subjects, and whose brother
William married Catharine Macaulay, authoress of
a ‘‘ History of England” and other works forgotten
now. In London Dr. Graham started an extraordinary
establishment, known as the Temple of
Health, in Pall Mall, where he delivered what were
termed Hyineneal Lectures, which in 1783 he redelivered
in st. Andrew’s Chapel, in Carrubber‘s
Close. In his latter years he became seized with a
species of religious frenzy, and died suddenly in his
house, opposite the Archer’s Hall, in 1794.
In Bailie’s Court, in this quarter, lived Robert
Bruce, Lord Kennet, 4th July, 1764, successor on
the bench to Lord Prestongrange, and who died
in 1786. This court-latterly a broker’s yard for
burning bones-and Allison’s Close, which adjoins
it-a damp and inconveniently filthy place, though
but a few years ago one of the most picturesque
alleys in the Cowgate-are decorated at their
entrances with passages from the Psalms, a custom
that superseded the Latin and older legends towards
the end of the seventeenth century.
In Allison’s Close a door-head bears, but sorely
defaced, in Roman letters, the lines from the 120th
Psalm :-‘‘ In my distress I cried unto the Lord,
and he heard me. Deliver my soul, 0 Lord, from
lying lips and from a deceitful tongue.”
In Fisher’s Close, which led directly up to the
Lawnmarket, there is a well of considerable
antiquity, more than seventy feet deep, in which a
man was nearly drowned in 1823 by the flagstone
that covered it suddenly giving way.
The fragment of a house, abutting close to the
northern pier of the centre arch of George IV.
. ... in Restalrig churchyard. Mrs. Broughain’s maiden aunt continued to reside in this house at the Cowgate-head ...

Vol. 4  p. 242 (Rel. 0.38)


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